T Montague's 2zr swap - '08 m/t sedan some extra info

[tmontague]

Alright, time for my thread to be started up. I will be starting this swap in 2 weeks during my reading week off school. I don't have a garage (just a 2 car wide short driveway) so I'm using the winter temps to not have to deal with rain. Thankfully the weather is hovering around 0-5 below Celsius so I'll hopefully avoid the "polar vortex" we had the past couple years.

Thanks to the help of the others that have already completed the swap and their willingness to pass along info, I've been able to slowly purchase the specific parts that I need.

I was able to pick up a 2zr from an auto trans '11 Corolla with 89k km on it for $600 CAD from a local yard near me. I stripped down the block and painted it to keep it clean and protect it. I installed an oil catch can as the PCV valve is hidden behind the intake manifold and it is easier to install with the engine pulled.

I'm installing a Luk Corolla clutch and aftermarket but oem weight flywheel.
My engine harness was pulled from an '08 xd m/t with a/c for an unreal price (thanks to Cranky for finding that gem and shipping me the parts). It was in great shape except for one of the engine knock sensor wires being broken. I just fixed the wire and should be good to go.

Here are the parts that I purchased for this swap - I'll add part numbers once everything it complete.
-2zr long block
-2zr a/c compressor
-2zr alternator
-xd m/t engine harness with a/c
-passenger side and driver side engine mount and bracket
-2zr clutch
-2zr flywheel
-2zr flywheel bolts
-xd maf sensor
-xd air box (top only, as yaris bottom box is compatible)
-xd top radator hose plus 4" straight piece
-xd coolant filler neck
-xd non immobilier '08 ecu (my yaris has an immo, but I'm bypassing it)
-2zr a/c compressor bolts (still unsure if 1nz bolts will also work)
-2zr timing chain tensioner gasket (commonly leaks so figured I'd change it)
-2zr drive belt for a/c
-2zr engine hooks front and rear

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16473455_10155032936552743_544004247889409797_n.jp g?oh=da09d0cd08db7bf71b5b030d3f98cfb9&oe=593CBE6C

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16649044_10155032936507743_7564936959820743491_n.j pg?oh=81867db84c66c9f9ba5f45a7fa37cb33&oe=5904BC9E

When I picked up my engine I put it in a stand and checked as much as I could to see what kind of shape it was in. Plugs were clean and in fine shape (iridium), cams and rockers looked clean with zero sludge under the valve cover, valves are stained but smooth and clean, oil wasn't dirty and has no metal shavings in it. Minimal rust on the bolts on the block.

My original plan was to go with the RPM long tube header and get a local exhaust shop to fabricate my current custom 2.25" exhaust to fit it. Due to the cost as well as DD drive ability (exhaust hitting firewall issues) I decided to just clean up the oem header and paint it with black ceramic paint. There is a DC header for the 2zr but online report have minimal improvements over oem. Basically, if you're going to spend the cash for an aftermarket header spend it on the RPM long tube. It just isn't as simple as a plug and play like other headers.

I'll just have the exhaust shop weld on a new ball joint flange so that it will properly fit on the 2zr header.

I'll update this thread with pics this week and I'll document how the swap goes. This is my first engine swap and I'm doing it solo (although I have the online help of others on here who have done the swap before) I have a pretty decent amount of experience working as a shade tree mechanic and I have a good amount of tools including air tools.

I'll be jacking the front of the car up and placing jack stands under the frame rails (just the front). This will allow me access to everything I'll need for the swap.

I'll be removing the front bumper, crash bar and radiator so that the engine removal and install will be much easier.

Wish me luck!

[SirDigby]

are you going to do anything with the cooling system? is the yaris radiator big enough? do you need to change fans?
why a wiring harness for a manual with an automatic transaxle?

[tmontague]

The rad has proved adequate enough for use on the track and auto x as per Armstrong racing's swap and others so I'll be keeping the oem rad in. I'm pretty sure the xd has the same rad as the Yaris and the xd comes from the factory with the 2zr.

My car in a m/t so I have a harness from a m/t xd. My engine was pulled from an a/t but I've removed the pressure plate and installed a flywheel so I'll be using it as a m/t.

I'm running the oem yaris trans I'm not using the xd trans

[tmontague]

Started on the car this morning for a few hours before work. Tomorrow will start my full days until it is complete. I got all the fluids drained and much of the front end off the car.

Some aftermarket wires to remove and one or two more cross braces. Then the hoses and wiring harness to be diconnexted from the body (pulling it with engine) then I'll be ready to remove the 1nz.

I should at least have the 1nz pulled by tomorrow, crossing my fingers I'll have the 2zr mounted by night fall but we'll see.

As a side, all of the bolts on the front end of my yaris were in great shape and not rusted really at all.

They were all covered in a thin film of the Krown oil, definitely will continue with this every year, makes working on a 9 year old car much easier

This is where I left off after around 3 hours.
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16830754_10155064925312743_875070735688618760_n.jp g?oh=f75f57e46c60d7a096db1b972d938176&oe=5942A638

My shed is all the way in the backyard which makes for long set up and clean up times as opposed to having a garage to do this in.

[IllusionX]

Oh wow! Can't wait to see the final product


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[WeeYari]

Weather Gods sure be smiling on you this weekend.

[tmontague]

Weather Gods sure be smiling on you this weekend.

it's been unreal, planned to do it now to avoid rain and just deal with cold...turns out I don't have to deal with either!

[tmontague]

First full day, spent about 11 hours including set up and clean up which was easily 1.5 hours of the day since I have to assemble to engine hoist on my drive way and then disassemble it to store it between my house (narrow space between house so I can't fit it fully assembled)

Started with clearing more of the the frame as well as lights and then all of the electrical wires and hoses etc

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16807139_10155064939652743_2780311875348728369_n.j pg?oh=16c69d625a3f8083be5569c746888ade&oe=593D385E

Got it to this point after a couple hours and then started assembling my hoist to pull the 1nz.

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16681818_10155064928542743_8452198536921957860_n.j pg?oh=b4b75c4ca7bb7265bd00bcf252e24d5b&oe=5902289D

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16807286_10155064928232743_3581424465104401731_n.j pg?oh=db00964718bfe616ae55a9edf3368616&oe=592D21B3

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16807112_10155064928437743_3088843491239120646_n.j pg?oh=5a758e6e2a8d85ae24277583f7714fcd&oe=5936B22F

I never ended up replacing the sway bar bushings as the oem ones are still in excellent stiff shape. I would've had to pull the steering rack to access the bolts for the bushings and it would've been a waste of valuable time

I depressurized the fuel system when I set my car up on the drive way. I just pulled the EFI2 fuse and the car shut off virtually right away. I tried pulling the EFI1 fuse but that did nothing and the car kept running (weird?)

This meant there was very little fuel spill when I diconnected the fuel line. A paper towel was more than enough to catch what little was there. I had my a/c discharged at my mechanic's shop for $40 so removing the a/c lines was no issue.

Once the 1nz was on the drive way I needed the bell housing bolts (9 in total including the 2 starter bolts) as well as the pressure plate bolts. I separated the trans from the 1nz and then got to work installing my new flywheel and clutch onto the 2zr. I also cleaned off the internals of the trans housing as well as the splines and shift fork. All the grease was gone and everything has a light coat of mild surface rust. The lack of grease is likely why I had a squeak when I depress the clutch (yes, I lubed the shift linkages and the squeak still persisted)

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16807829_10155064927807743_2031599681005327554_n.j pg?oh=3b63340ae95a5d2bda43d838bbc21112&oe=5931DDD0

Once the flywheel was properly torqued down (38 ft/lbs and then 90 degree turn) I installed the friction disc and pressure plate (14ft/lbs) and then greased all of the contact points up. The old throwout bearing was still in decent shape but was starting to have some play in it. The new one was more solid feeling and smoother as expected.

My clutch was on it last legs...one side of the clutch was worn down about 1/4 of a mm from the rivets. Both the flywheel and pressure plate were glazed with some blueish hot spots, but there were no grooves in either surface. This likely contributed to my cold/wet morning shudder. The car has 175k km on it now and I purchased it with 87k km so I have no idea how the person before me drove it. It always shuddered occasionally when I purchased it.

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16807187_10155064925807743_703313304180827695_n.jp g?oh=a9b529bedac75744d740960562096b96&oe=5947A773

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16831880_10155064925677743_1606985038562216805_n.j pg?oh=1cb1b47e61a8434525e252f006492caf&oe=5939F360

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16649207_10155064925577743_3935576109176276672_n.j pg?oh=fbddea45903861342e444fce4a8eaff9&oe=593C9BAE

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16830873_10155064925402743_732204985272524205_n.jp g?oh=8f0efc0f5dee3a939da8172cd401643b&oe=5939DD74

I then installed the trans to the 2zr and transferred my block heater to the 2zr while it was out of the car. I then opened the 1nz harness and grabbed the speed sensor from the connector and attached it to the 2zr harness and properly wrapped in plastic loom. I also transferred all of the hose over to the 2zr at this time.

I then installed the passenger side mount to the body and put the dog bone in and loosely tightened it so it still swiveled. The 2zr is larger so it takes some time to put in the car (especially if you do this swap solo like I am). I found that getting the dogbone mount attached to the engine first and then the passenger side mount worked best. I used an engine leveler (highly recommend it especially if you don't have help). I also used a jack under the trans to help adjust the angle of the 2zr as well. I then installed the trans mount and unhooked the hoist.

I would highly recommend who ever does this swap to do was I did and what i was told by others and that is to remove the front brackets and bracing before you pull the 1nz. I was on the fence because of how much extra time it took but I listened to people who have more engine swap experience than me (and who had already completed this swap) and I'm glad I did.

With the front end off the car you can just turn the engine 90 degrees and easily slide it out. The crash beams are very close the engine and dont give you much room so pulling the front end saves you a lot of time down the road and makes it was easier.

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16807007_10155064997792743_2242841593098222173_n.j pg?oh=563ab3defdf271ac38dd2d9a7bf6bfe4&oe=593F34F8

Tomorrow I'll be connecting/trimming allf of the hoses and connectors and putting the radiator back on as wll as most of the front end. I'll likely have a chance to fire it up tomorrow.

I have to take it to an exhaust shop so they can fabricate a proper mount to fit the 2zr header as the current one I have on my custom exhaust is too small. Due to the holiday Monday next week I likely won't have to car fully functioning until Tuesday evening. I may still be able to temporarily connect the exhaust flange to the header so I can drive it around, but we'll see.

As a side, I took a silicone coupling I had and cut pieces from it to jam in the dog bone and trans mount. A member on this forum posted about the idea so I tried it out. The dogbone mount is super soft and the silicone definitely tightened it up, but I wasn't able to get much in the mount as I hoped as it was a tight fit.

[3cyltrbo]

MOAR

[ern-diz]

MOAR

+1

[tmontague]

Alright so after the full day Saturday I ended up being up all night hugging a toilet, the flu isn't fun but luckily usually short lived.

I ended up sleeping most of day Sunday and just picked little bits on the car. So basically I got a couple crash bars installed and all of the vacuum, fuel and heater core hoses connected.

Started out late this morning and I got the air box installed as well as the battery mount. Then I installed the lower rad support bar, the rad and then the upper support bar. I connected all of the a/c lines and hoses to the rad and then hooked up the battery.

I unplugged the efi 2 fuse and cranked the engine to build oil pressure. After 5-10 secs (oil pressure light still hadn't turned off) I checked the engine. I had a big fuel leak coming from the 2nd or 3rd injector. I removed the fuel rail and re seated the injectors.

I then disconnected the coils and injectors and cranked the engine some more. After about 30-50 seconds the oil pressure light went off. I then went to work on the immobilizer ecu bypass voodoo. After about 5 mins that was done and it was time to start it up.

The car would crank but not fire up. This happened for about 7 times (I would only let the car crank as long as it does when you just turn the key to start and then back to ignition). Double checked that everything was connected and no wires we unplugged. Tried it again and this time it stumbled and then died.

Tried a couple more times and then finally it turned over and ran fine. Cranky and Armstrong thought this was likely due to air being in the fuel lines since I had purged them before I pulled the 1nz.

Ever since then it has started and ran with zero issues and no codes thrown. I have only driven it around the block because the noise in unbearable above 2k rpm. The mid pipe is barely attached to the header so I essentially have no exhaust from the header.

I'll be taking it to an exhaust shop tomorrow since today was a holiday and hopefully they'll have time to fabricate a proper flange for the larger donut gasket.

To put this build in perspective, if I wasn't sick the whole thing would have been done in two 11 hour days working by myself. This is probably as easy as it gets to engine swaps. Especially with the support of the guys who've done it before me.

I'll post again tomorrow with an update and I'll be driving it as soon as I can and posting a review compared to the 1nz. I'll also be posting exactly what I had to buy and what I could use from the 1nz. For example my shift cables worked fine and got without any real issues. There seems to be some slight differences from the sedan to hatch swaps.

Big thanks to those on this forum who have done the swap before and offered up so much helpful info, made this swap much more painless

[ern-diz]

The jealousy is real!

[Corbeaubleu]

Can we have pics of the new motor installed?

[Corbeaubleu]

Also what exactly is included in a XD harness? Trashed Scions are way rare here.

[WeeYari]

Trashed Scions are way rare here.


Precisely the reason why the harness used in this Canadian project was sourced out of the States.



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[CrankyOldMan]

Congrats on joining the Dark Side! We don't have boost yet, but there are secret plans being drawn up as we speak...

[CrankyOldMan]

Precisely the reason why the harness used in this Canadian project was sourced out of the States.

...by Cranky, from a recycler on the other side of the country, who also collected parts from an xD at his local you-pick-yard. ;)

The MT swap is something not to be attempted by the easily discouraged. I will do everything in my power to help the next person, but it may take months or even years before the right parts are available. Armstrong Racing and I are putting together a swap kit--hopefully MT--because we want to see more of these happen.

That said, the AT swap is cake. Dime a dozen for those parts, much less hassle with sourcing them. If you're a competent shade tree mechanic and willing to put in the time up front, this is easily a weekend project. Bolt in ~130 hp. OEM reliability. Done. :biggrin:

[tmontague]

I'll have pics up tomorrow, my wife got the flu I had so takin care of her and the 3 month old meant no time for pictures.

And yes, as WeeYari mentioned, I sourced the xd m/t harness from an American xd which is why it didn't have an immobilizer.

I was also fortunate that Cranky found a scrapped xd at a local "you pull" and was kind enough to pull me the parts I needed. This have me access to rare parts and also at a fraction of the cost I otherwise would have had to pay for them.

I never planned on doing the swap this early but I made things work when I saw those parts come available

[Corbeaubleu]

So is the harness just a sub assembly of the stock harness? If so, seems like with a set of appropriate connectors we could come up with an affordable DIY install kit...

[Corbeaubleu]

Wouldn't the Corolla ECU and MAF work?
And what about the power steering pump, the Yaris one was a bolt on?

[CrankyOldMan]

So is the harness just a sub assembly of the stock harness? If so, seems like with a set of appropriate connectors we could come up with an affordable DIY install kit...

The engine bay has two separate harnesses: one that just goes to the engine and gearbox, and one that goes to the lights, wipers, ABS sensors, etc. You only need the engine harness for the swap. The xD is almost 100% pin-to-pin compatible on all connectors. The Corolla/Matrix requires a bit of rework. And "affordable" has different meaning to a lot of people. =P

Wouldn't the Corolla ECU and MAF work?
And what about the power steering pump, the Yaris one was a bolt on?

Until someone figures out how to (easily) reprogram the immobilizer to a new ECU (and vice versa) we're limited to using USA xD ECUs. The Corolla might work if you can get the keys, transponder ECM and the ECU from a single vehicle. Even then, no guarantees that all the plugs would be wired correctly, or would even have the signals/wires available.

The 2nd gen Yaris has electronic power assist. No pump and hoses needed. =)

[Corbeaubleu]

Yup, seems like a bit of work and parts, however used harness and ECU from the scrapyard aren't cheap either!
I forgot about the electric power assist, thats one thing I didn't like about my wife's Yaris: seemed twitchy.
I'm looking to do this swap into a 2005 Echo.

[CrankyOldMan]

I'm looking to do this swap into a 2005 Echo.

The reason this is so easy with the 2nd gen Yaris is because it's the same lower unibody as the xD. The 1st gen Yaris (Echo) is probably very different, and will require some serious research into parts compatibility.

[Corbeaubleu]

Looking at Montagues first engine bay photo, the 1NZ seems to have the same clearance to the sub frame as on the Echo. I'd need a dimension from bell housing to crankshaft pulley to know for sure.
Right now, I've got reservations about the harnesses: the Echo doesnt have the same throttle body as the Yaris, so what else is different? Do we have pin code charts on this site?

[Corbeaubleu]

I really want to try to make this work: the Echo weighs in at 2062 pounds!

[WeeYari]

Looking at Montagues first engine bay photo, the 1NZ seems to have the same clearance to the sub frame as on the Echo. I'd need a dimension from bell housing to crankshaft pulley to know for sure.
Right now, I've got reservations about the harnesses: the Echo doesnt have the same throttle body as the Yaris, so what else is different? Do we have pin code charts on this site?

Start your own thread on this as it is its own standalone subject. OP does not need this pollution in his build thread.

Moderators should pull all the posts relevant to an Echo swap out and establish a thread for you.

[Corbeaubleu]

Dac!
My apologies to all!

[ern-diz]

Moderators should pull all the posts relevant to an Echo swap out and establish a thread for you.

Ha, good one.

[tmontague]

Alright, I'm finally almost back to 100% health and so is the Vios. I currently have it fully put together in my driveway with a vacuum pump and a/c manifold gauges hooked up to it. If it holds vacuum I'll be filling it with 12 ounces of r134a and I'll have the a/c working by this evening.

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16830644_10155072651752743_2451214414603748980_n.j pg?oh=efe0cfce116edd95bbfa9e6624cfadf9&oe=5927A04F

The car has not had any issues since my last post and has always started up without any hesitation and never thrown any CEL's. I drove it to Zorro Muffler this morning since I didn't want to drive further to Budget exhaust where I was referred (by my mechanic) due to having no exhaust and risking a large ticket. I had ringing ears just after the 6km drive to Zorro. I was referred to them by my father in law and they had good reviews online about them.

They aren't the cheapest but they are all good guys well into their 50's and very knowledgeable. I had them put a proper fitting flange on my mid pipe and fix the small piece that had the single cat on it, since that piece was still the oem diameter. Now the whole exhaust is 2.25" and has a proper flange. Cost $208 out the door. Sound is slightly deeper than the 1nz but nothing hugely different.

I only gave it 50% throttle as I needed to top of the coolant and check for leaks until I go buck wild on it. My first impression just mildly driving around town is mainly that it makes the car feel like it's 700lbs lighter. Lighter touches on the throttle are needed to make the car go and it seems smoother then the 1nz (if that's even a thing). The car idles no problems and has had no hiccups as of yet.

The new Luk Corolla clutch is much nicer than the stock Yaris clutch. Makes driving much more enjoyable due to its quicker engagement and lighter/smoother pedal feel.

I have to figure out where and how I'm going to mount my oil catch can (any ideas are welcomed), I am going to add a second can from my 1nz engine just to improve its effectiveness as it is a diy can. That said, the single can has already grabbed a little oil and triple the amount of water so it's definitely doing something.

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16830998_10155072651802743_8244442608509821132_n.j pg?oh=784b23693e6c50e95753c9c996cfa56d&oe=5945A0B7

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16864635_10155072651942743_4505420575389025996_n.j pg?oh=abb2be3c8f0cd2ef6b2f2aab4979919f&oe=592823FE

in the second pic above you can see what vacuum line I used for my vacuum gauge. I originally had it hooked up down stream from the evap purge valve so it wasn't showing proper vacuum. Once I put it right before the manifold it started working like it should.

The only gauge I currently don't have in use is my oil temp sensor (pressure works fine). The sensor won't fit in my adapter so I need to find some sort of 90 degree extension so it clears the passenger side crach bar and fits inside.

Here is a picture of how I powered my MAF to 12V ign. It's the exact same way Cranky did it and works excellent and is clean once the fuse cover is back on.

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16864954_10155072803462743_2890941536963590859_n.j pg?oh=4afb08f42c7cf3d2cf3284f8a1c08a24&oe=5935F4B5

I also decided to purchase the xd coolant filler neck and hoses so it looked clean and I didn't have to play around with making the 1nz one's work (it is possible just more work). The xd filler neck bolts into two female threads on the yaris radiator. They will need to be tapped due to the rust they'll have. I used an M6x1.00 tap and 10mm bolts I had lying around from work I did on the Yaris a couple years ago.

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16864465_10155072802877743_952715355630505133_n.jp g?oh=70602a395ba982fb9bf0ff4517746a36&oe=5936255A

I'm going to be hooking up my techstream to it and re writing my VIN to the ecu to aid in passing e test in Ontario. I don't have one until 2 years from now.

Does anyone know if the e test (obd check only) will show the type of car that the ECU stores or just the VIN #?

I'll post back once I do some fun runs at WOT on this bad boy. I'm sort of in shock right now with how well/easy this swap went. Like others have stated, the toughest part is finding everything you need. I guess I'm used to working on old rusted neglected cars and wrenching on mine is a dream when every bolt in antiseized and coated in a film of oil.

Oh I forgot to mention. The bottom of the airbox is cut on the front and driver side and the original passenger side hole is blocked. I have plastic 3 inch ducting coming from the drivers side fog light shroud feeding air into the bottom of the box. I also have the charcoal filter cut out. Althought not the same as a CAI, I avoid any water issues and it gives a nice sound.

[WeeYari]

Clean. Congrats.

Very hard to believe this was done in just over 2 days, solo! Be proud!

[ern-diz]

Clean. Congrats.

Very hard to believe this was done in just over 2 days, solo! Be proud!

+1 :respekt:

Time to update that forum signature and garage!

[tmontague]

Something new I've noticed with the 2zr is that it is an extremely smooth engine. I don't know if this is due to be it being a newer engine than the 1nz or if it is just a more refined engine but when you take it to redline there is no excess noise and movement like you have with the 1nz. Even when starting the engine it is quieter and moves less.

I'm off school this week so i haven't driven it very much as I don't like taking it for short trips and usually take the Vibe. I would have taken it out today for a drive since it was a crazy nice and warm sunny day but I knew if I went out to have some fun I would've worn my winter tires right down so I decided to keep it parked.

I did a few red lines pulls getting on and off the highway a couple days ago starting in second gear. What I noticed the most is that I get to speed much faster then I am used to. I look down expecting to be at 100km/h and I'm already at 120 or expecting to be at 80 and being over 100.

The 2zr also pulls hard right to redline unlike the 1nz which falls flat on its face above 5500 rpm. The power band on the 2zr is much more improved. What this means for drivability is that when taken to redline the 2zr "pushes" the car right into the next shift so you're always at top power. Whereas the 1nz "bucks" a lot due to going in an out of the optimal power, the 2zr stays right in it. This leads to much smoother fast shifts when you are red line shifting.

As a side, I've read reports online and if you miss a shift the 2zr is happy to spit it's rockers out but usually leaves the engine undamaged. I'm not sure what will happen with the 1nz but it would likely get damaged.

Now time to change the signature..

edit: someone let me know how to make my signature image smaller...its a biiiit big

[CrankyOldMan]

edit: someone let me know how to make my signature image smaller...its a biiiit big

Step 1: Open Paint.
Step 2: ???
Step 3: Profit!

Like this?
http://i.imgur.com/BMz1UBi.jpg

[tmontague]

Thanks Cranky, computers aren't my strong suit:iono:

[tmontague]

I started out today with the plan to add my 1nz oil catch can inline with the new one I already ave on my 2zr. This ended up working out perfectly and I even found a nice place to securely and somewhat cleanly zip tie it to

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16938510_10155081586627743_7928525336549521405_n.j pg?oh=7f0c578bdb4ab4d76fb79d82797a0c8d&oe=592B64A8

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16938663_10155081586887743_2921932179550557488_n.j pg?oh=78e4712ec75caf72204ecd9c286c2d32&oe=593950C7

now no rubbing and it is accessible when I need to empty the oil.

When I started the car this morning I noticed I had a CEL. Now I knew that the last ready check for the ecu was the EVAP system so I wasn't surprised when the code was a p0456 which is "EVAP control system leak detected a small leak". I had used a new non oem hose to run from the EVAP purge solenoid to the firewall EVAP line. This hose wasn't as snug as it should've been and the oem clamp wasn't strong enough to make a tight seal on it. I ended up taking one of the 2zr oem hoses and trimming it and using that instead. It was a much tighter fit and using silicone spray went on without an issue.

As a side if you are doing this swap, use silicone spray on any hose you are installing back on the engine or car. it will make removing them years down the road much easier and enjoyable, especially since they'll be in a tight cramped engine bay and ont easily accessible.

I went to my local Home Hardware and found a 45 degreen 1/8 NPT fitting with an extension. This will allow me to finally properly fit my oil temp sensor as it is too long to fit into the adapter I bought for the oil pressure sender.

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16865175_10155081586537743_6192735918171970739_n.j pg?oh=7ed9e267c39213b9569a21ff8cddedb9&oe=5972C36E

Here you can see the large sensor (thing with yellow on it) and just below that you can see a 1/8 npt plug that i used to plug the hole meant for the temp sensor. The sensor wouldn't install since it won't go all of the way in due to clearance issue so it cannot thread.

Toyota engine blocks and oem oil pressure switches are 1/8 BSPT, and therefor you cannot just screw in any 1/8 npt fitting or you will have a leak and mess up the threads. What I did was buy an adapter that has a male 1/8 BSPT thread to screw into the 2zr block. It also has 1 female 1/8 BSPT port on it for the oem pressure switch. It also has two 1/8 NPT ports on it for my aftermarket oil pressure and temp gauges. This works fine but I needed a 45 degree adapter with extender so that the oil temp sensor would fit. I will hopefully install that tonight.

Becuase the 2zr uses an oil cartridge instead of a regular spin on type oil filter, I could not just use my sandwich plate to tap the oil sensors like I did with the 1nz. This means that my oil temps may not be very accurate, but I'll see once I install it.

As of now the oil pressure is much lower in the 2zr than the 1nz. Instead of being around 60-80 psi in the 1nz, it is around 40-60 psi in the 2zr. If you do install after market gauges make sure the sensor have seprate ground wires running form them. I had originally spliced them into one another and had inaccurate readings.

[tarkus]

An amazing piece of work. Kudos!

Sent from my phone with Tapatalk. Please excuse any typpos.

[tmontague]

Just finished installing the oil temp sensor. You can see in the image the original adapter I used and the oil pressure sender on top of it as well as the oem oil switch installed in the back of it.

I then installed the 45 degree fitting with the extender and then screwed the oil temp sensor into that

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16995979_10155082386492743_5127728581000576244_n.j pg?oh=08de994df63374f2c2e0e7692c326ae6&oe=59362EA4

[ArmstrongRacing]

Congrats man and great work!!

[tmontague]

Short update:

The ECU has went through it's full check and all of the readiness monitors are "ok" so it's safe to say there are no CEL's from the swap. I've driven around 700km on it and have been pushing it a little harder. It's been a ton of fun and even when only taking it to 3k rpm it wants to get up to speed quick.

It it a bit harder on mileage as expected. So far on winter gas and my first tank I'd say about 5-10% worse. That said, I've been driving harder and that tank had a lot of idling on it due to various things I was monitoring on the car.

I installed a Viofo A119 dashcam hardwired to my ignition and so far have been really impressed.

I'll be doing a dyno pull early this spring once my winters come off the car. The plan is to get some 2zr baseline numbers before I add a long tube header or anything else. The numbers will be higher than a complete stock swap as I have a 2.25" header back custom exhaust with one cat delete, as well as a cut out air box with no charcoal filter and ducting feeding to it. The intake won't do much to change numbers, but the exhaust definitely will have an effect.

At least it will give people some more info in regards to what numbers they can expect.

I'll be updating the first page on this thread with exact parts I needed for the swap and any tips or tricks that helped me.

[3cyltrbo]

:respekt:

[tmontague]

Alright, short update on the 2zr now that the placebo effect is gone. How do I know the placebo effect is gone? Simple, the car feels slower then it did right when I did the swap.

The 2zr is a bit harder on gas then the 1nz (obviously). I probably get about 80 or so less km per tank. Seems to use about 0.5-0.8 L/100km more than the 1nz. I can't give exact numbers since we still have winter gas up here and the average numbers I have in my head are from my 1nz on summer gas.

The 2zr is smooth, right up to red line and it pulls hard all the way. I definitely need an LSD as WOT in first gear is almost impossible to do unless the road are dry, my tires (crappy 800 wear) are warm and I'm going straight. I also need better tires, which is something I'll be doing next summer as mine are getting worn and can't handle any rain.

I've had no issues still with any CEL's or anything else engine related. My dual oil catch cans pick up way more oil then I thought they would. They are inline so obviously the first one fills up quicker but it seems I'm catching about 2-3 ounces every 2k km or so.

I'll be installing some aftermarket stuff next week so I'll post the updates here when I'm done

[ern-diz]

...The 2zr is smooth, right up to red line and it pulls hard all the way. I definitely need an LSD as WOT in first gear is almost impossible to do unless the road are dry, my tires (crappy 800 wear) are warm and I'm going straight...

It breaks that easily, eh?

[tmontague]

it does on my crappy 800 treadwear all seasons. The tread last forever but on anything wet or when they aren't warmed up the right tire will slip.

I can still do a 0-60 under WOT without any right tire slip, but on bumpy Hamilton roads under a slight turn when leaving a parking lot, no chance.

With better tires it should mostly go away, and of course an LSD would make a huge difference

[ern-diz]

Right, makes sense.

[thebarber]

needs moar tire

[ArmstrongRacing]

I was spinning 225/45ZR15 Hankook RS3's with the open diff....the 2zr is a tire killer. Now that I have an LSD, Ive been running 205/50ZR15 Hankook Rcomps....and I still spin like crazy at the start line.

[tmontague]

Another update, finally installed my NST crank pulley. The revs seems to drop a bit quicker and the car seems slightly peppier but tbh it is not a mod I would be spending money on right away, better spent on other mods first.

The pulley is labeled for the Corolla S which uses the 2zr fae motor, but it will fit the 2zr fe no problem. However, it was labeled a normal size pulley and it is slightly undersized. not a big deal and I have no idea if the 2zr fae oem pulley is smaller than the 2zr fe but I think that is very unlikely and NST just CNC'd the wrong pulley for me. It's minimally smaller so I'm not concerned.

Now that summer gas is here my mileage is now about 6.5-6.9l/100km as opposed to 5.8-6.2L/100km. A little less miles per gallon but many more smiles per gallon :biggrin:

I had a brief issue driving in salty slush in a spring storm that Niagara Falls NY had when I was travelling to the border for some car parts. I got 2 engine codes, one for my secondary O2 sensor and another for a faulty ECU. The O2 sensor was stuck at 1.275 volts but otherwise ran fine. It was due to me not using rubber plugs to fill the 3 holes from the immo wires I removed when i did the install to by pass my immo.

I pulled 3 rubber grommets from my 1nz harness and plugged the holes, luckily my ECU dried out and haven't had the issue since. Thanks Cranky for the heads up on the ECU hole issue :thumbup:

I've recently ordered a MonkeyWrench Racing steel lightweight flywheel (8.8lbs) and will be installing that in a couple weeks as well as my poly filled engine mounts. This should make 1st through 3rd gear really snappy and take out some of the lag/slop in a stock engine.

I also ordered an RPM long tube header and will be having a new mid pipe made with my current resonator, single cat and aftermarket muffler because I love how ,my car sounds and don't want to part with that. The current midpipe hits my axle and rear right shock and has a slight rattle to it when the rpm's come down so I figured I'd get the shop to bend me some new pipe and fix that issue. I'll be splicing in some extra wire to extend the secondary O2 sensor to fit where the cat will now be placed. I won't have the header for a few weeks as they still have to make one up.

If you are doing the swap and plan on keeping your Yaris a/c lines, that is fine but take note that you will have to bend them slightly for them to clear any rubbing and to have the compressor side fitting on the low pressure hose fit better. I didn't bend mine and my hose was rubbing on the compressor. The other issue I had was that the bolt that came with my reman'd compressor is too short and only ends up grabbing a few threads onto the compressor. I didn't bend my yaris lines so there is a lot of torque on the fitting that goes into the compressor. This over time caused the bolts to ruin a few threads on the bolt and pop off.

When I was doing work today I lightly moved the line and it burst off sending UV dye and r134a all over my engine bay and just missed my eyes. This stuff is ridiculously cold so learn from my mistakes before you go blind.

I rebent the line in my bench vice (takes a lot of force to do) I made sure not to pinch any of the steel lines, so only bend as much as you need to. I then found a longer bolt in my parts bin and secure the compressor side of the fitting first, then the top side. I pulled a vacuum on the system and it held for 20 mins so i then ran my vacuum pump on it for 90 mins. I then sealed it all up.

I'm unfortunately out of my r134a so I'll have to wait until next week when i can go to the border and pick up some more. I'll be adding some UV dye as well since all the stuff I added before blew out.

We cannot get r134a here in Canada without a license and the r22 stuff they sell at CT for way too much money is flammable and not oem so I'd rather do it right and have it cost me less money. Hence why I'm buying some r134a from across the pond.

So far I've had no oil loss in 6k km except for the amount my oil catch cans are collecting which is more than I thought.

Another thing to keep in mind for those doing the swap in the future. I'd recommend sourcing all XD mounts and brackets if you plan on running the long tube header.

It is true that with the sedan swap you can use the yaris dogbone (torque mount) mount and bracket and it will be fine. Armstrong's mount sits perfectly straight and mine is slightly crooked but nothing to worry about or cause excess wear.

However, the xd mount pushed the engine forward an inch or so and gives extra clearance for the longtube header to fit. Armstrong has his header hit his firewall every so often under very hard shifting at high rpm's - and that was with a solid poly torque mount. Not a huge issue but another member with a hatch who ran all xd mounts and a long tube header never had any issue with the header hitting the fire wall. So for a DD if you don't want to experience the header hitting the firewall I'd recommend running all xd mounts and brackets and filling your torque mount with poly to make it a solid mount which limits how much the engine twists under heavy load.

Keep in mind with the xd torque mount you'll have to run xd shift cables and the 1-2 extra inches that the engine moves forward will be too far for your yaris cables to fit. The cables are stupid expensive and can't be found online so this becomes a pricier option then you'd expect.

That's about it for updates, I'll post back once I have my flywheels installed

[thebarber]

0.5-1.0L/100km is worth 30% more power while still using 87 octane

[ilikerice]

I was spinning 225/45ZR15 Hankook RS3's with the open diff....the 2zr is a tire killer. Now that I have an LSD, Ive been running 205/50ZR15 Hankook Rcomps....and I still spin like crazy at the start line.

Your in Prepared class now.. just get some 15x9" wheels and slap some 255 Rcomps on now.. :laugh:

[tmontague]

Short version:
2zr swap in a sedan needs the following mounts/brackets:

with long tube header:
- xd passenger side engine mount and bracket
-XD dogbone mount, Yaris dogbone bracket
- yaris trans mount and bracket
-XD shift cables (because of the xd dogbone mount which is longer than the yaris')

with stock header:
- xd passenger side engine mount and bracket
- Yaris dogbone mount and bracket
-Yaris trans mount and bracket

Here is a little update regarding the engine mounts and the sedan swap as I've had a slight issue this past week which I learned some more info from. To make this post easier to follow here is a break down of the mount situation. There are 3 engine mounts in total, these are the parts that contain the rubber dampener. There is the fluid filled engine mount (passenger side), dogbone mounts (aka torque mount) and the trans mount (drivers side). Each mount has a bracket which is the metal part that the mount affixes to.

Also to make this post make more sense it should be known that the 2zr is a wider engine (and slightly taller) so it takes up more space towards to the drivers side (left) crash bar. Or in other words, it causes the transmission to move closer to the left side

I initially did the swap with all of the XD mounts except for the dogbone and bracket as these were still the oem Yaris ones. This allowed me to use my Yaris shift cables (XD's are longer). The engine swap went fin and there were no issues what so ever.

Yaris dogbone and Yaris bracket
https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18199248_10155318577667743_7952453524274214307_n.j pg?oh=651232fb40985fe4ed7788ceef07aa31&oe=597E824D

Now the Yaris dogbone is shorter by about 1-1.5" so the engine sits closer to the firewall. Because I recently ordered the RPM long tube header, I needed more clearance behind the engine to install it and to avoid any contact of the header on the firewall under hard downshifts. To get that extra space behind the engine, I installed the xd dogbone mount. This pushed the engine forward but the dogbone ended up being on an angle. This is not a serious issue but over time it could cause the mount to wear quicker and since I drive hard, I'd rather it be lined up straight.

To fix that issue I installed the xd dogbone mount and bracket, the xd dogbone bracket shifts the mount attachment point over a half inch so that the dogbone mount is straight. I installed the bracket, the mount was now straight. The next day I started noticing a vibration at the wheel under hard right turns. i thought it was from the rear wheels and thought it was the wheel bearings. But new bearings didn't fix the issue, and it turns out it was a vibration from the left (drivers side) cv axle and the trans.

Because the dogbone mount was straight the engine was now sitting more to the left (drivers side) where it normally settles. With the dogbone bent, it was sort of holding the engine/trans more to the right. The engine being more to the left ended up causing the left CV axle to now be fully compressed. The inner joint allows for in and out (length) movement which is needed due to suspension travel as well as making the axle easier to remove and re install. The outter joint does not have any in or out. This meant that the axle was at it maximal compression so when the left axle was rotated it would push the trans/engine over a quarter inch back and fourth.

This could be seen when the car was raised and no weight was on the suspension as the trans/engine would wiggle when you manually spun the left wheel. If the car was put in gear while raised the engine/trans would bang and vibrate. When driving and the suspension compressed there would be no issues. But under hard right cornering, the left wheel would be forced in due to driving forces and this would compress the axle more, leading to my vibration issue.

Putting the Yaris dogbone bracket back in solved the vibration issue, but the engine/trans still rocked slightly when the left axle spun and the suspension was unweighted. Also the dogbone mount was still on a sharp angle.

Xd dogbone mount and Yaris dogbone bracket with xd trans mount and bracket:
https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18222554_10155318319077743_3972874885916888759_n.j pg?oh=5363e309afe40b3fc2e256ecdc38a393&oe=5986F7B0

I decided to reinstall my Yaris trans mount back into the car to force the engine more to the right. I kept the xd trans bracket installed as it lets the trans sit lower in the engine bay to help keep the center of gravity down. Installing the Yaris trans mount is tough and requires a lot of muscle and a BF pry bar that you leverage against the crash bar and the outter trans case. This is so the engine/trans move enough to the right that you can get the bolt to line up through the dampener. After fighting it for 20 mins I finally got it installed.

Yaris trans mount, XD trans bracket, Yaris dogbone bracket, XD dogbone mount: You can see that the xd dogbone mount is almost straight now. If I installed the xd dogbone mount instead of the Yaris one (seen in the picture) the mount would be perfectly straight.
https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18222488_10155318319617743_1451558639592622938_n.j pg?oh=11fed36fb337fae13812b21b6dfa52f0&oe=598294BB

Here is how much room is between the trans and the crash bar with the Yaris trans mount, xd trans bracket, Yaris (I have polyurethane in the mount making it a solid bushing):
https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18222664_10155318597367743_9095211306039267245_n.j pg?oh=86b8037f5e6b7e57edabfb5ae0ca7649&oe=59763004

Here is how it was with the XD trans mount and bracket, Yaris dogbone bracket and xd dogbone mount:
https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18221627_10155318322082743_2286138778095579015_n.j pg?oh=05893fb64c0bf3574e095ec3c9654bf6&oe=598C68B3

Now the enigne/trans does not move when the left wheel is spun and the car is raised off the ground. Under hard cornering there is no issues and I can now feel some slight play in the left cv axle when installed on the car (this is a good thing as it means it's not binding or fully compressed).

For some unknown reason, the sedan seems to have less width in the engine bay, or the mounting locations seems to be closer together than in the LB. The 2zr swaps in the LB's seems to have no issues with axle compression regardless of what mounts are installed.

[tmontague]

Quick update:

Car is running strong, I do a handful of WOT runs almost every day and have had zero issues. The long term fuel trims are fluctuating between -14 and -18 consistently, the engine runs fine so this is likely d/t my aftermarket exhaust and CAI as this happened on my 1nz once I had the exhaust fabricated. I check for exhaust leaks and there are none.

With the type of driving I do I am still averaging 6.6L/100km which is really impressive so no complaints there. I have a slight oil drip coming from where I installed the adapter into the block for my oil gauge senders. I figured this would happen eventually as it was never really meant as a permanent solution.

I have ordered the oil filter adapter so I can go to a regular spin on filter and I'll be installing a glowshift sandwich adapter so I can read proper oil temps again and get rid of the oil leak. that's all for now

[heeroyuy01195]

Thanks for the information on the rear mount in regards to the axle compression. Was a little concerned when reading this as I thought it would be the same on the liftback. Hopefully everything goes as smoothly as Cranky's swap when I swap my liftback.

[tmontague]

You shouldnt have any issues with your LB. Just keep the old Yairs mounts just in case. Easiest way to test the axles after the swap is to unweight the front wheels so the suspension is fully extended and use your hand to turn one from wheel at a time as fast as you can. Your transmission/engine should not wiggle. If that checks out then put the car in first year and let the front weels spin and you should not hear or feel any banging.

You can save yourself all this trouble and some money by just keeping all your mounts for the Yaris and only using an xd engine mount (passenger side)

[heeroyuy01195]

Thanks for the heads up montague, read cranky's thread a while back and saw that he and frogger used all XD mounts and cables. Still weighing my options as I'm tackling suspension and braking first. Have you had any issues with the "under hood" SSK and the xD cables?

[tmontague]

No issues with the xd cables as they are longer. You can use the Yaris cables with the Yaris dogbone (i originally did) but because I want a long tube header I wanted more room at the fire wall so I installed the xd dogbone. This moves the engine forward more which than stresses one of the Yaris cables. Xd ones have no issues

[CrankyOldMan]

Have you had any issues with the "under hood" SSK and the xD cables?

The engine bay SSK is starting to wear on my setup after about 5 or 6 years. I've only greased it once or twice, so that is probably a contributing factor. The cable length isn't perfect, but it fits well enough with the SSK bracket.

[heeroyuy01195]

Thanks for the info montague and cranky, saw that Garm has a few SSK's for sale on his ebay store but wasn't sure how it would play with the swap later on. Looks like I'll be picking up one of his kits; my NST never felt right.

[tmontague]

It probably never felt right because they never made a bracket to replace the one bracket that bolts to the trans and hold the cable ends.

Garm is the only person I know of who has/had them and they change the angle that the cable where it attaches to the shift levers and makes for smoother shifting

[tmontague]

slight update:

I got back from a week long vacation and went on a short trip around the corner to find my car making a loud whistle form the engine bay when at idle. Checked the engine bay and found out that the polyethylene hose I used to plumb my dual catch cans ended up disintegrating, causing a vacuum leak which was the source of the whistle.

I looked online for oil resistance of various hose materials since finding 3/8" ID oil resistant rubber hose around here isn't as easy as I thought. Turns out PVC is oil resistant. The reason I didn't go with PVC braided line the first time was because the PE line was much more rigid than the PVC and I didn't want it to collapse under vacuum at idle.

Turns out the vacuum isn't strong enough to collapse the PVC braided hose and it is much easier to work with when running lines. Engine sounds good and is back to normal function as are my catch cans. When I removed the intake manifold I still had a slight amount of oil in it but my intake valves and chambers were extremely clean for an engine with 95k km on it thanks to my constant WOT pulls. I am collecting about 1-2 ounces of oil every 3-4k km or so.

My long term fuel trims still constantly sits at -10-12% meaning the ECU is reading that I am running rich and it is pulling fuel. Not a big deal as this is not nearly enough to trip an engine code but it is something to note. This happened on my 1nz too after I got my customs exhaust made. Doesn't seem to have any exhaust leaks either.

[tmontague]

I was able to get a hold of Tom's built transmission as he had an opportunity to buy a 6spd C60 (follow his thread HERE) (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?p=806290#post806290)

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/23658834_10156005734247743_1483088505598120822_n.j pg?oh=dd2339d26201d23cf79c1c6d412bb390&oe=5AD5839C

The transmission was torn down and inspected by Tom and any worn parts were replaced. It has a Cusco RS clutch type LSD and a Scion 4.3 final drive. This effectively increases the rpm by about 500-600 in any gear which transfers more toque to the wheels. This makes for a faster car but at the loss of fuel economy and increased engine noise at highway speeds.

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/23658615_10156005733922743_6983642361646598413_n.j pg?oh=d4ff4131ebd69207a0e1c717bc7e7036&oe=5AAD6C9C

The LSD will completely lock the axles under acceleration and even in the event of one front tire being completely lifted off the ground. This will allow me to throttle out of corners on the track and use the throttle to control over steer even more so than before. It also has the benefit of given me a true 2wd car in the winter when driving on snow/ice. The factory open diff is really a one wheel drive once you come across some ice or slippery snow.

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/23795185_10156005734177743_4594981935657525645_n.j pg?oh=121aa0b088ed27054b77b4969271201d&oe=5AA7AB2D

I don't have access to a lift so pulling the trans absolutely sucks. The 2zr swap is wider which give you little room at all to pull the trans. I used my engine hoist to support the 100lbs transmission while I wrestled it out from under the car. Don't even try to do this by yourself without a hoist...ask me how I know. The clutch was in great condition still so I left that alone and just cleaned off the clutch fork and all contact surfaces and regreased.

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/23659616_10156005733992743_7681129565380887988_n.j pg?oh=02ed5e7184bac6b4005a0e135846fb56&oe=5A8D6494

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/23794938_10156005734087743_6346229394306852602_n.j pg?oh=f03cdda0f81e040f5f11fab9a4fea194&oe=5AA84F7F

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/23658515_10156005733862743_773345740168039481_n.jp g?oh=6806d5dacf903571236934e3856aa945&oe=5AA39041

I have put a couple hundred km's on the new trans so I figured I'd post about my thoughts so far.

The good:
The very first thing I noticed is that under throttle, even partial throttle, the steering wheel wants to correct itself straight much more than before, almost forceful. Under WOT the torque steer is seemingly completely gone. It feels like I have an extra 500lbs holding down the front end to the road and 2 foot wide tires upfront. Hard to explain but the car feels much more firm and planted.

The open diff made the front end feel so light like the tires were barely touching the road. Anything more than 60% throttle in first gear would send the right tire into a spin. I feel an increased sense or confidence in the car and increased control of where it wants to go.

The bad:
noise, whines and clunks. If Tom wasn't so good at what he does or if he didn't have this in his car previous to me owning it, I would think it's broken. It is virtually silent when coasting even in full lock turns. any throttle applied and the front end locks up leading to inside tire squeal (on my winter rubber right now). When throttle is applied on a turn you hear all sorts of noises and slight vibrations. This is the plates engaging/slipping and is normal.

Accelerating in 1st or 2nd gives me a loud whine from the left of the engine bay near the trans/axle area. It sounds like my trans has straight cut gears and happens any time I give it more than 20% throttle (which is obviously all the time). I hear a whine and feel small but loud vibrations from the left front end. This is when the tires are pointed straight and it goes away when I reach 5500 rpm. Only in first and second gear.

It also clunks/knocks in between 1 and second gear shifts under hard acceleration. This is likely the clutches engaging and disengaging according to other forums online. I personally do not mind the noises, it is a daily driver but I rarely drive my wife and kid in it as we always use her vibe since it's our family vehicle. I enjoy more feedback from my car anyways.

I get both front wheels slipping under WOT in 1st gear since I currently have my winter tires installed. In the summer this shouldn't be an issue with some proper UHP summer tires. I have noticed that giving a decent amount of throttle on a corner will introduce under steer. This is easily controlled on dry pavement by easing off the throttle but on wet or slippery surfaces I could see this causing people to hit curbs and medians if they aren't expecting it and throttle hard mid corner. Crank and Tom both warned me about this so I plan on getting used to it in a snowy parking lot this winter.

All in all I'm happy with the trans and I can't wait to get out to the track next spring. This little car is becoming quite the weapon and an absolute blast to drive. It now pulls like a moster when I downshift into 4th going 110km/h to pass someone as it puts me right above 4k rpm which is in the power band on the 2zr. FWIW it revs at just under 4k rpm going 120km/h

I'll post back later on my new fuel economy numbers.

Plans for the future include BC coilovers and TRD suspensions mounts front and rear. I also just picked up my new summer rims from across the border. 15x7.5 +35 which I'll be wrapping in bfgoodrich gforce sport comp 2's. My rims I sold we're 7" wide and this will be the widest i can fit with my rear spacers and rear rolled fenders

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/23795107_10156008965007743_2632076791641262167_n.j pg?oh=93e44c0d1d23882594a4fe3acc4e0d5e&oe=5AA80E62

[atomic_hoji]

Nice score on the 5MT w/LSD! Likin' the purple paint job. :thumbup: Guess that means Tom's really sure the Celica 6MT build is going to work.. lol

New wheels look slick to. Congrats on the new toys.

-- Adam

[LTHatch]

What transmission fluid did it come with? If possible would you mind doing a few 0-60 runs?Curious to see what a 2zr with that 4.3 LSD can do vs a lightly modded 1nz.

Those wheels look damn good, how much do they weight?

[tmontague]

I am currently using Cusco's own fluid which is stupid expensive. Once that is drained I'll be using Amsoil MTG which I've been using for the past year. I called Amsoil and was told it should be fine with an lsd and I have been happy with its shifting performance plus it is a much more realistic price.

I'll do some 0-60 runs as soon as I have my summer tires on this spring and I also plan on doing a dyno run this spring. If i do 0-60 pulls now I just spin too much with my winter rubber.

Rims weigh about 11.6 a corner. It makes a huge difference in initial take off from a stop.

My butt dyno says the 2zr with 4.3 fd is much faster than a heavily modified 1nz. My 1nz had a header and full exhaust, intake manifold, 1zz TB and air intake so it's as far as you can go in regards to bolt ins with that motor. So my butt dyno has a good comparison to relate it to

[tmontague]

Some updates regarding the clunking and noise on 1st and second gear accel when going straight. Turns out this is due to my drivers side axle binding and not actual diff chatter.

I had this issue after the swap due to the trans being moved an inch or so closer to the drivers side from the 2zr being wider than the 1nz. No one else with the swap seems to have ever experienced this problem which is really strange.

This binding would only happen on sharp right turns and would cause a banging and vibration as the trans would be forced to move since the axle was maxed out with compression.

I temporarily fixed this by installing the yaris trans and doggone mount back in which pulled the engine and trans back toward the passenger side. I currently still have those mounts in my car.

I think that extra torque from the 4.3 fd and lsd are making this issue apparent again. However it only happens on very slight left or right turns when accelerating in 1st which is why I am convinced the extra torque is the reason I have this issue again.

Bottom line I need to find a proper solution as this binding caused my cv boot to tear. I spec'd some cv axles online and turns out a '98 tercel have the same splines and is 0.9" shorter than the yaris axle. I'm going to pick one up in the next week and this should fix any binding I have by giving the axle shaft more room to move under stress.

I'll post back my results

[ern-diz]

Man, you came to chew bubble gum and kick some ass --and you're fresh out of bubble gum. This thread is going to be a fun follow.

[tmontague]

This post may get a bit lengthy but I'll post a tl;dr at the bottom

So quick synopsis: ever since I did the 2zr swap I would experience axle bind on sharp left turns. This is a common problem on slammed Honda's and lowering as well as negative camber can lead to the issue depending on axle specs from factory. The CV axle is meant to compress and lengthen within a range so when the suspension moves up and down and the axle need to shorten and elongate you don't experience any issues. When the axle is forced to shorten more than its specs then the axle binds and this will force the transmission to move over and back repeatedly as the axle turns. This is felt by a slamming vibration and a loud consistent thud noise from the front left of the car. When I would spin the front tires (or just the right tire) I would get a violent banging in the engine bay which turned out to be the trans slamming the subframe.

I have no idea why I was the only one experiencing this since about 4 or so others who have done the swap didn't seem to have this issue. Tom is lowered and has about -1 more degree of camber up front than I have and he has never experienced the issue. The 2zr is wider and pushes your trans closer to the drivers side by an inch or so. I temporarily "fixed" it by installing my yaris dogbone bracket and trans mount on the car instead of ther xd ones I had originally installed. This "pulled" the engine over to the passenger side but the dogbone mount was now at a severe angle and the engine had to by forced over with a huge prybar to get the bolt through the trans mount bushing. Keep in mind both of those mounts on my car are full poly filled.

This seemed to reduce the noise and banging so I left it for the time being. Fast forward to my new trans with lsd and 4.3 final drive, the noise came back as did the banging. I thought at first that was how noisy clutch type lsd's are but after a day of driving I realized something was wrong and it was the dreaded axle bind. It seems the extra torque and force on the left axle is causing the issue to come back and when I re installed the trans it likely didn't go back to the exact same place as it originally was so it may have lead to the binding.

Thanks to Cranky and Tom's help I found a site to look at spline count and shaft length of CV axles (autozone is the website). I found a 2000 corolla had matching inner and outer splines but was 1.5" shorter and had an abs tone ring (possibly removable). If I went too short I risk popping out an axle which leaves it flinging around under the hood and likely cracking the trans housing or worse. Not good especially since I do track days with this car.

I tried my luck with a 98 Toyota Tercel and bingo! Same splines, option for no abs and reported 0.9" shorter. I picked one up last night an a local auto parts store for $84 CAD. and as you can see in the pics below it actually only appears to be about 0.5" shorter than the Yaris axle. It also has the same dust cap on the trans side as the Yaris axle. It seems to be missing the hub side dust cap but I realised once I installed it that it actually does have one that works the exact same as the Yaris axle.

Both axles are compressed in the pic and sitting flush against a wall. The Tercel axle (built by Cardone) also have the 3 grooves in the inner joint case to put a pry bar against when removing the axle

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/23794811_10156013766352743_4551850447867530721_n.j pg?oh=1186409b18f7c7f9ccaf472bbe85bf9d&oe=5A988110

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/23754901_10156013766377743_2830041689251791783_n.j pg?oh=5c6663fc6451e22507952c7318fc79ee&oe=5A88F8E2

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/23794895_10156013766407743_5862984349026530019_n.j pg?oh=cf52b51acc2377ea6c07220a13d0b1de&oe=5A8CDE2E

There are subtle differences such as the spline not being cut all the way back like in the Yaris axle, but once I had the yaris axle out I test the hub side with the Tercel axle and voila it worked perfectly. I installed it and check if the axle was being pulled out of the trans in the full extension of the suspension and it appeared fine.

Assembled everything back together, filled the trans with the fluid and went for a test drive. Aaaaaand silence, no more clunk, thud or loud noises. Only a slight rumble of slipping clutch plates on turns with mild throttle and of course wheel chirp on turn with more throttle as the axles lock.

The only "weird" noise I hear now is when I accelerate hard on 1st or 2nd even when the wheel is pointed straight I hear what sounds like a muffled grind from the left side of the engine bay. It does not sounds loud or damaging and it is subtle. I think it has something to do with the diff forcing the clutch plates together. Either way a clutch type lsd is definitely DDable and not nearly as noisy as I thought. Keep in mind Tom also broke it in properly with a half hour of nausea inducing figure 8's.

Cranky did mention to me that he hears a bang on hard acceleration which could be axle bind but may also be the trans hitting the subframe like mine was. It is possible that others may experience the axle bind here and there and not realise it for what it could be.

TL;DR
Bottom line a 1998 Toyota Tercel (non abs) drivers side axle will remove about 0.5-0.9" of length and fix any axle bind you have on the drivers side if you do happen to have it. It is good to know that there is an easy solution to a potential problem that those who do the swap may face. No need for custom axles or having to piece together parts from different axles, just a simple off the shelf axle will work.

Now I can do more WOT pulls without having to worry....poor tires.

[atomic_hoji]

Good bit on information, thanks man. :w00t:

Glad you go your problem solved for good (knock on wood).

-- Adam

[tmontague]

Short update:

Axle bind fixed and most of the noise is gone, however under very hard red line shifting on highway I still have the differential ear of the trans hitting the sub frame.

I will be installing the poly filled xd trans mount back which will fix the trans mount from being in a crazy angle like the current yaris on is. I'm hoping this will potentially move the trans away from the subframe.

Other possibility is that my passenger side mount is toast and worn out from me moving the engine up and down to remove the trans. However no fluid is leaking from it.

I'm getting much more engine movement from the greater torque but it shouldn't be that bad with 2 of the 3 mount poly filled.

Other option is to find a machine shop to machine a solid doggone mount which would lead to more nvh but much less movement

I'll post back how the xd trans mount works

[deng]

Nice pick up on the transmission, so jelly!

[tmontague]

Nice pick up on the transmission, so jelly!

It's a pretty awesome mod on this car!

Update on my noise issue. The last bit of noise I had was under hard accel in 1st or 2nd gear it was a muffled vibration from the left side of the engine bay. I installed my xd poly filled trans mount and got rid of the yaris one.

The xd one was much easier to install as the mount properly lines up so the through bolt is easy to slide in. With the yaris mount its on an angle and I had to use a prybar to force the engine over and after fighting it eventually get the through bolt in.

I test drove the car and that vibration is completely gone. It must have been the through bolt hitting the outer wheel of the mount causing a muffled vibration.

I haven't driven it hard enough to find out if the trans still hits the subframe but over all it is much quieter and now only makes noise under low speed sharp turns.

Once the trans fluid heats up I'm surprised at how quiet it becomes virtually silent with no clutch chatter. Easily dd'able.

Long story short go with the xd mounts of you do the swap. Of you experience axle bind than also get a Tercel axle for the drivers side.

[ern-diz]

Awesome R&D and write-up, as usual. Sub'd for a future where I do this swap. Might come in very handy.

[tmontague]

Thanks. The xd axles is shorter than the Yaris axle likely due to the wider 2zr. It has different spline counts though.

I just did a wot red line 1st and second gear pull and heard a mild to moderate clunk of the trans hitting the subframe. It wasn't violent and not really a concern but I will be looking into getting a solid doggone mount machines maybe at the end of next season.

[tmontague]

I've been able to drive my car in the snow quite a bit in the past month or so and I feel like it's been enough to give a good quality update on my experience. Keep in mind this is my first time driving a car with an LSD.

I have 4 winter tires (more of an ice tire) that are relatively new as well. There seem to be two camps on line in regards to driving an LSD in snow: 1. It will help increase traction by giving you a true 2wd car instead of the realistic 1wd that open diffs give you once they slip. 2. They actually make snow/ice driving worse.

To me #1 always seemed to make more sense. In this case I'm talking about a clutch type lsd, a torsen type will not do a whole lot when your one tire is free wheeling with no traction. A clutch type lsd will lock up regardless if one wheel is free spinning.

After a month of driving in snow the only time I can see an LSD being dangerous is under hard acceleration on slick conditions. This still entirely depends on driver input, so not actually the fault of the LSD but rather the driver. If one decides to give too much throttle during cornering in icy conditions then since the axles are locked causing both tires to spin you will under steer much much more than with an open diff. This is due to both tires losing traction and not just one. This leaves you with zero traction on the front which leads you to under steer. This is easily controlled by not giving too much throttle on corners or by backing off the throttle if you start to slide and you will regain control.

In deep snow or slippery conditions the grip has improved drastically. Instead of hearing the right wheel spin up and the car barely inch forward, I now notice much less wheel spin and the car pulls forward consistently. Not like an awd obviously but it is more consistent in the progress forward.

Performance wise (as best as I can with snow tires on) torque steer is essentially zero. I can go WOT (now with much less wheel spin) and the car doesn't pull left or right. The steering wheel under throttle actually has a tendency to want to self correct back to neutral, quite powerfully actually.

Overall the car feel more planted, firm and in control, even in snow.

As for the bad:

I still have a transmission clunk that seems to happen on left turns when giving a decent amount of throttle. This does not sound or feel like axle bind, that problem was fixed with swapping in Tercel axle. It sounds exactly like the transmission hitting the subframe. This is likely due to the LSD putting extra torque out from the transmission to both wheel leading to different forces on the mounts causing excess movement.

My plan to remedy this is to get a dogbone mount machined from solid aluminum which should severely limit movement.

Overall I'm really pleased with the LSD, it really transforms the car into more of a purpose built "sports car". My gas mileage is now at about 7.1L/100km up from 6.3L/100km when I originally put the 2zr in Lfwiw it was at 5.8L/100 km with my 1nz). That said I am also on winter gas and snow tires so realistically I am probably sitting at 6.7L/100km with the 4.3 FD. The only time the LSD makes a lot of noise is when the trans fluid is still cold. Once it heats up the LSD is very quiet.

[ArmstrongRacing]

I'm happy to hear the trans is proving its worth, and that you understand (and have shared) how to properly use the throttle. haha

I still dont know why your car continues to make clunking noises when mine did not. I still have a silent drivetrain even after swapping to the 6 speed. I need to buy another LSD at some point, maybe Ill try a torsion this time so I can compare

[tmontague]

I have no idea either, Toyota was obviously aware of the potential as they made the xd left side axle slightly shorter but I can't explain why you never seemed to have the issue. My car was never in an accident that I'm aware of and there is no evidence to ever say it was.

The noise/banging I'm hearing now is simply the war of the trans hitting the subframe. My only guess is I prematurely wore out my fluid filled passenger side mount from moving the engine up and down with it still connected when removing my trans twice. However the doggone mostly is the only mount controlling that engine movement and mine is fully poly filled.

I'm hoping the solid billet doggone will fix the issue, if not it isn't that bad and shouldn't be an issue on the track. Problem is the xd is such a rare car that there is little to no aftermarket for it other than show parts.

As for the torsen lsd, I've never used one but I was originally conceded about dding a clutch type based on online comments. After having daily'd it for the past little while, it is no issue at all. Most comments online is the same comment regurgitated, very few people spoke from experience.

If costs were equal, I'd go clutch type every time. Never have to worry about lifting a wheel or having minimal grip on the inside causing it to act like an open. Yes, eventually the clutches will need to be replaced but according to many users online the cusco 1 way lsd last a darn long time. Not many draw backs of you like to hear your car and feel everything. If you want oem comfort and silence than torsen is a great compromise.

I've been very please this far

[tmontague]

Finally picked up my new summer tires and had them mounted to my new Konig Hypergram 15x7.5
tires are 195/55 r15 and are as wide as most 205's
treadwear is 340

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27332120_10156200067217743_7938625533844206532_n.j pg?oh=7fd5572d6b4fbdc968e6a253b4480bda&oe=5AE7AE27

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/26991893_10156200067377743_8403921809886852853_n.j pg?oh=d3a4c6ae8613fa83b7def0a7f12f48d0&oe=5B2520CD

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/26907925_10156200066922743_5425513214375015538_n.j pg?oh=61c12ed4cf5c221be479810086a78ff2&oe=5AE8C246

can't wait for spring to get these things on the road!

[atomic_hoji]

Nice! :thumbsup:

Congrats on the beauty wheel and tire setup. Should look slick man.

-- Adam

[Jeanseb29]

What brand of tires did you choose Tmontague? I can't tell from the photos... I'm currently looking for summer tires with same dimensions (195/55r15) for a set of Rota circuit 8 (15x6.5) I found on Kijiji before winter. I might go with Yoko s-drive but still not decided yet.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

[deng]

The hypergrams look great!

Jean, those are BF Goodrich G Force Sport 2s.

[tmontague]

Yup, Deng is correct bfg g force sport comp 2's. I forgot to put that in my post. In any other tire I would have went 205 but these bad boys are wide.

I chose they over any other UHP tire as we get a decent amount of rain where I live. I was tired of having to limp my Yaris around whenever it rained so I wanted a tire that performed well in the wet. The reviews on the sport comp 2's are some of the best and excellent in the wet. Made sense especially with their price. Found them on eBay for approx $64 a corner. Stupid cheap and better performing than many others.

[thebarber]

Nice!

[malibuguy]

64 a piece hotdamn

[tmontague]

64 a piece hotdamn

Yup stupid good price. This was slightly cheaper than DTD's latest sale price. With mounting and taxes at the border I ended up paying $370 CAD! The cheapest I could find them in Canada all in was $600 CAD.

The reason why they were marked down cheaper is likely due to the fact that they were manufactured midway through 2015. This shouldn't be an issue for me as this tire probably won't last more than 3 years before it's down to the wear bars. This puts it at 6 years old which is when I ideally like to get new tires (if I have the cash).

If I ever get to the track and it's raining I plan on using these as well as for any autox I do this year. My slicks take too long to hear up for autox and are downright greasy when cold.

[thebarber]

nothing wrong with new old stock

[tmontague]

nothing wrong with new old stock

Absolutely not as long as they aren't a decade old and dry rotted lol. 2 and a half years is no problem and a faster wearing tire

[tmontague]

Thought I'd toss out an update on what I've done thus far. In preparation for my first upcoming track day of 2018 at the end of next week I spent some time this week working on the car. I now have my summer rubber and rims mounted (BF Goodrich sport comp 2's) they are a 340 tread wear tire and F%ck these things grip like you wouldn't believe.

I have been constantly pushing them harder and harder and not even a squeal form either corner. They just grip more the harder you push them - highly recommend these for a spirited DD'r that sees a lot of rain

I recently decided to get my car a proper corner balance and race alignment at a somewhat local race shop to me. My current alignment specs are as follows:

Rear: Camber L-1.42 R-1.48
Total toe -0.18 (toe out)

Front: camber L-2.6 R-2.5
total toe -0.08 (toe out)

according to the alignment guy who is a well decorated racer and has a couple decades of experience building suspension and doing alignment on race cars the set up is optimised for the track but still conservative enough where it will still be able to drive in snow on roads without spinning out all the time. The rear end toe was properly corrected using shims which was never perfect due to my camber washers I was using.

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/31841456_10156488039237743_6936487966768365568_n.j pg?_nc_cat=0&oh=8c160252fdb1021b458e27a74b0625ba&oe=5B901621

I'm still blown away at how light these cars are, without me in the car it came in at 2370lbs give or take and that was with a 3/4 tank of gas. My initial impressions on the drive home was how fast the turn in is now. The difference is night and day, almost as if I have a close ratio steering rack now. You have to be very aware driving the car now as a slight movement in the steering wheel will cause the car to quickly flick left or right. The cars feels much more stable now and planted and the suspension doesn't feel as jumpy in the rear end.

I installed some new rotors up front as the others were fairly glazed and getting rusty from this winter. I didn't go for the Stoptech slotted rotors as they would have been $150 CAD for both off of RockAuto. Instead i went for the Stoptech regular rotors that are coated to prevent rust. They cost $48 CAD for both. I couldn't justify the extra $100 for the slotted/directional ones, not on a car this light.

I also threw in some new spark plugs, the Denso's did the job and had about 125k km on them so I threw in some NGK's. If I was just DDing the car I would have left the Denso's in there but seeing as my car gets driven fairly hard and often, I figured the NGK's weren't a bad idea and now at least I know I'm starting fresh. As usual I also re greased all of the ignition connectors.

I also tuned up the brakes and re lubed all the sliders and contact points as the high heat from the track isn't friendly to keeping these things running smooth. I used high temp grease that came with the Hawk brake pads. I have about 300km of track driving on these pads and they still have 50% life left, so pretty impressive. They are the Hawk HPS pads and I daily on these as well.

Lastly I installed a 2.5 lb BC type fire extinguisher and to mount it I used a product called the Bracketeer. I ended up mounting it behind the passenger seat as it is a great position for offsetting the driver weight and it is very easy to access with a slight reach around.

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/31820687_10156488039142743_5882441617247305728_n.j pg?_nc_cat=0&oh=35b821df4ed10309a8638cef10b11fdf&oe=5B93DCBE

having it in front of the driver seat wouldn't work with the stock Yaris seat brackets due to my seat position and the steering wheel gets in the way of easily accessing it anyways. Plus it just adds weight to the wrong side of the car. This is something I really wanted in my car. A cart fire is a very quick way to ruin something you've spent countless hours on and it is also a terrible way to die if the worst case scenario ever happens. A fire extinguisher will help you quite a bit in either scenario.

I chose a BC type over an ABC type as the A is for wood fires and is a very corrosive chemical to metal and electrical wires. Cars are fine with BC type extinguishers and other than a lot of mess from the dry powder it tends to not corrode your car and leads to less damage you have to repair if you ever have to use your extinguisher. This particular extinguisher is good for 10 seconds which is pretty good as many tend to only last 5secs.

After a lot of thinking and talking to some people including my wife I have changed future plans in terms of what car I will be using as a dedicated track build. I'll save this for another post - hint, it starts with a Y and ends in aris... :wink:

[ern-diz]

:thumbsup:

[tmontague]

Did a shakedown on Friday after about 8 months away from the track. Weather was about 6 degrees (C) ambient temps and off and on drizzle of rain. The BFG R1's I'm running never got up to temps and stayed squirmy each session. I timed my first session and was a few seconds slower than my fastest lap last year.

By the 3rd session I blew a rear tire which sent me in a spin and into the grass a bit. Turns out I picked up a screw or nail and when it ripped out it lost all the air suddenly and I lost control. Luckily I'll be able to patch/plug the tire from the inside and hopefully still get some more track days on the rubber. There is still some left in them and indidnt want to have to scrap the tires so soon.

The R1's are a great tire for hour long racing and stick like hell, but if you do track days in cool temps then youre better off with the r1s. The Yaris is a light car so tires take longer to heat up

My car ran great, oil temps peaked at 250F and I had no issues. I still have the transmission banging on the subframe under hard shifts so I'll have to build a proper poly mount soon, the one i currently have installed was half assed and not stiff enough.

Not a great day on the track, but my expectations were also too high. In the future I won't be timing my first session of the year, especially when the tires aren't heating up. I'll be back again in 3 weeks with hopefully hotter ambient temps and no rain.

As a side note, i got to try my sport comp 2's in the rain and wow do they ever hook up. Hell, they almost ran better than my r1's when it was dry.

[DarkShadowFox]

I looked into the 2zrfe swap and i think i will be doing it too seems to be almost a direct drop in like legos. will be nice cause its about 37 pounds lighter then the 1zfe at more displacement and more power for the cost of nothing. also you get to go to 5x100 which allows bigger and better things :D

[enviri]

will be nice cause its about 37 pounds lighter then the 1zfe at more displacement and more power for the cost of nothing.

*21.8 kg heavier.

[tmontague]

. also you get to go to 5x100 which allows bigger and better things :D

It's not required to go to 5x100 w/ the 2zr swap and really is completely separate from the swap. Afaik no one who has done the swap has often to spend extra for 5x100, I personally didn't see a reason to worth the money

I agree it is a worthwhile swap though

[atomic_hoji]

^^^ +1 :confused: Not sure I've seen anyone mention a 5-lug conversion when doing the 2ZR swap; or I've missed something critical.. lol

Good to see the work on the car and that you're setup is shaking down well for you! :thumbsup: Hopefully we'll catch up at a track day this summer.

Interesting note about the fire extinguisher - I've always bought ABCs out of habit; generally to use around the house. Good to keep in mind for a dedicated extinguisher in the car.

-- Adam

[Dliverance]

It's not required to go to 5x100 w/ the 2zr swap and really is completely separate from the swap. Afaik no one who has done the swap has often to spend extra for 5x100, I personally didn't see a reason to worth the money

I agree it is a worthwhile swap though

I’m not a fan of 5x100 either. Coming from a long history of Subaru’s and celica’s, the only decent wheels I ever found in 5x100 were a set of rota grid v in 17x8.

[thebarber]

5x100 would make it tough to find 15" wheels. 16" might be ok...but you'd likely end up with OEM matrix or vibe wheels!

4x100 is so much easier to find wheels in 15"

[DarkShadowFox]

5x100 would make it tough to find 15" wheels. 16" might be ok...but you'd likely end up with OEM matrix or vibe wheels!

4x100 is so much easier to find wheels in 15"

just use corolla wheels, FRS BRZ rims... subaru wheels.

[Runethecursed]

Subaru impreza pre 2009 where all 5x100. all the way back to i think 1996? whatever the first years of the Impreza GC/GM chassis was

[tmontague]

Another update after some track days.

a few weeks ago after my first 45min session I noticed my coolant reservoir was almost empty. It was a hot day (ambient temps around 90F) and there was dry coolant on the bottom of my engine splash guard. I figured I had a leak. No leaks seen so I topped it up with water and kept going. It would drop a bit each session but was not leaking out of anywhere and it wasn't being burnt through the exhaust.

I put a new rad cap on when I got home and checked it every day the next week. The coolant never dropped an ounce. Long story short, my rad cap likely wasn't holding pressure which caused it to boil slightly and spill out of the reservoir. The next track day I had no coolant loss and it was almost just as warm. The coolant temps tend to hit max 212F and typically stay between 195 and 204F during hard lapping (oil temps peak at 260F)

On my last track day I worked on braking zones. I had a fellow YW member (Brian sp?) drive around with me during some hot laps and he commented that I could brake much later (which was true). I had focused a lot on turn in's apexes and car control using throttle and brake. I felt like I had that down and wasn't making up any more time so braking zones it was.

First off it is scary as shit as your brain is basically yelling at your to brake and you are holding off until last minute. I got to the point where I'd brake late enough that let me scrub off as much speed as possible just to make the corner. Problem is at these limits there is very little room for error. Miss or slip off the brake pedal during heal toe shifts and you are done.

That is exactly what happened. After 3, 45 mins session and over 100km around the track, I had shaved 3 seconds off of my PB. I am now down to a 1:30:32. This is a relatively quick time, especially for the car I am in. On my 3rd session I was actually on par to beat that time but kept running into other people on the track and having to slow down. At those track times I was one of the faster cars that day. This was all due to braking later.

I felt I was getting tired so I was only going to go out for a 4th and last session - it's amazing how tiring it is when you drive the car 10/10ths and brake late, compared to going 8/10ths and having room for error. On the 4th last when the tires were hot I was heading into turn 2. This is a 90 degree corner that follows a straightaway that I hit about 145km/h on. To make the turn on my r compound tires I need to scrub my speed down to about 95km/h. I hit my brake zone and slammed on the brakes, at the same time heel toe'd down into 3rd (I have a reduced final drive) which is an aggressive heel to as I have to get the revs up to redline so as to not upset the balance of the car.

As I heel toed, I slipped off the brake and all of the weight of the car lifted. I was only down to about 125-130 km/h. At this point I couldn't get back on the brakes as I would have sent myself into a spin since I now had to turn in. So I just rode out the corner and kept the car as balanced as possible. During the corner the car slide off to the outside and into a field pretty hard. The issue was a 1' ditch right off the track before the field. I thought I was going to flip once I hit the ditch, but luckily the car was low enough that it just hit violently, made a big cloud of dust and spun once in the field before coming to a stop.

I limped back to the paddock and called it a day. I swapped out my tires to head home and checked for damage. Front left wheel was loose (not the lug nuts) and both rear wheels were loose. I thought I had blown 3 wheel bearings. Inspected it when I got home and turns out the front axle nut worked itself very loose (it was torqued to spec at 160 ft/lbs). I re tightened both axle nuts to 170 ft/lbs and the bearing tightened up.

There rear bearings were both shot, but the left was much worse, it made the car feel very twitchy and all over the place. The rear bearings I had on were premium Moog bearing with less than 14 months on them. It was likely the crash that turned them it though so I cannot comment on quality. I decided to replace them with mid grade bearings with only a 12 months warranty. So far so good we'll see how long they last.

Cars is back to being fully operational, I have a track day next Friday and the plan it to get my lap times down to a sub 1:30. Getting into the 1:29's would be awesome in a streets legal Yaris. Bottom line - don't miss the pedal! and dont head out for another session when you are fatigued!

[atomic_hoji]

:eek:

Glad to hear you're making progress with your driver skills, that's awesome! Not so awesome the car took some damage, but sounds like overall she needed a few parts and is back up to par, so that's good. :thumbsup: Sounds like it could have been way worse - always the ditch diving that does the damage.. lol

Do you run a dashcam? Would be interesting to see your laps and the big slide (knowing it turns out ok.. :wink:).

-- Adam

[tmontague]

I do have a dashcam which initially was strictly for insurance/accident purposes. That said, there is no reason I can't pull footage from it during track days. I honestly have never done so before as I fortunately have not been hit so I have had no reason.

I think I'll get a micro sd adapter and play around with it and see if I can pull footage of the crash. It would be good to review my laps

[ern-diz]

:eek:

Glad to hear you're making progress with your driver skills, that's awesome! Not so awesome the car took some damage, but sounds like overall she needed a few parts and is back up to par, so that's good. :thumbsup: Sounds like it could have been way worse - always the ditch diving that does the damage.. lol

Do you run a dashcam? Would be interesting to see your laps and the big slide (knowing it turns out ok.. :wink:).

-- Adam

+1 on all points. Glad it wasn't worse and it would be cool to see lap footage (not for off's specifically lol but it would be interesting).

[tmontague]

Finally got around to pulling the video. All other tack footage was overwritten, the dash cam was awesome enough to save the crash due to detecting g forces. Glad to know that that feature works.

The crash doesn't look too bad as they typically don't. The ditch is about a foot deep and then there is a grassy field, the impact on the ditch was the issue which led to the wheel bearings going. I hit the ditch at about 125-130 km/h. The car stayed even during the turn due to its good balancing and me controlling the car but due to the speed I ran out of room on the track.

In the future I'll save and upload some track footage of some fast laps

https://youtu.be/35QL-BB3k3E

[tmontague]

Here is the link to 1 or 2 laps yesterday at TMP. I wasn't driving 10/10ths like last session. The off course crash last time shook me up a bit since I have a family at home. I ran 8-9/10ths mostly and just focused on looking where I wanted to go rather than where I am. I also braked a bit earlier than last time as I wasn't in the mood to push it to the limit.

https://youtu.be/gBvKvykTxtU

I ended up doing a couple laps on my street tires which are 340 tw BFG G-force sport comp 2's. I only did 4 laps or so as \i didn't want to wear them out but I wanted to test them at their limits. I ended up being only 3 seconds slower then my other laps that day and I wasn't even pushing them very hard. It is amazing how much better the turn in was and they actually give you feedback on what the car is doing. Needless to say mr R1's are heat cycled out and aren't really much faster than a street tire.

This now makes a lot of sense as I'm following cars on less sticky tires that are able to corner faster than me and I felt that I am no longer able to hold speeds in corners I used to be despite being a better smoother driver now than before. The car also felt very unstable on high speed corners almost as if the rear would swing out at any moment with no warning. This is a known problem with the R1's but it's worse now than ever before.

I'll use them the rest of the season and save up to buy some new rubber for next season. I'll just focus on my driving skill for now so that next season I should have no problem doing a sub 1:30 with new rubber. I always felt like the tires should hold higher speeds on some of the corners so this is starting to make a lot of sense now.

I also desperately need a racing seat for next season, due to my faster cornering I am using my left leg to hold myself in my seat by forcing it against the door. This is making me lose focus on driving and leading to a chaffed and sore left leg!

I am now able to take certain corners without having to brake whereas before I would brake to scrub off speed. I am definitely improving but like I mentioned, the tires seems to now really be falling off quickly and are now holding me back.

The ambient temps yesterday evening were around 34 C and I recorded the hottest ever coolant and oil temps at 222 and 280 respectively. The dropped down a bit once the sun dropped down but those numbers were at their peak on one of the hottest sessions.

Oil pressures read fine at around 60 psi so it wasn't a concern, but interesting to see how high they got. I'll run a UOA on the oil once it gets to the end of its life.

[Ronnie V]

This thread is a fun read Trev. Well done on all accounts. :) Even the "crash"......without the occasional trip past our limits it is tough to stay interested in track daying IMO.

On the subject of lap times I was chatting with another Echo HB owner last weekend at the autocross as the Hershey Center. He says his PB at TMP in a Stock drivetrain Echo is a 1.27.xx This was unreal to me.......I never timed my Echo last year without the SC but 1.27 sounds off the hook fast.........Daniel is no doubt a very good driver. His car has some decent suspension and weighs in at about 2100lbs with him in it.

So this has prompted me to get my lapcounter up and running. I obviously want to be a fair bit quicker than a 1.27..........watching your 1.30ish laps this seems unlikely but I guess I should have a goal. ;)

I'll be out with my friends on Friday June 27th for the evening session.......weather permitting.

All the best,
Ron

[tmontague]

1:27 seems insane on a stock drive train Echo. I won't say impossible as I've sen some excellent drivers run ridiculously fast times in bone stock Miata's, but a 1:27 is something I'd want to witness before I fully believe it. I have been recommended harry's lap timer and it was definitely worth the $10 one time fee to get it on my phone. Definitely get your lap timer out and see where you're at.

Based on how much more stable and confident my car felt on my street tires made me really realize how far gone my slicks are. I would be happy with lap times below 1:30 but I think a 1:27 would be possible on my car with proper tires. I'll know for sure next season when I'm on new rubber but for now I'll have to see what I can do with the tires I have.

As a side note, what are people running for brake pads? I think I have found the limits of these Hawk HPS now that I am braking much later as they no longer have much bite to them and they glaze my rotors like crazy. They will still stop the car without fading but they have little initial bite which isn't very confidence inspiring

I'll book the 27th session and hope to meet you out there again. It's more fun seeing familiar faces out there and last Friday it was a sh*t show with how busy it was and how many overseas young kids there were in their +$150k cars parking anywhere and blocking people in...one of the reasons I wasn't in the mood to push it too hard.

[Runethecursed]

I am using EBC yellow stuff. alot more dust, alot more noise. they are hard as bricks cold. but heat cycled they stop good every time and our cars dont really push them to overheat.

[Ronnie V]

On the subject of brake pads I just got a set of Hawk Blues. Everything I have read says do not use them on the street as they will wear out rotors very very quickly........

Given how easy it is to swap brake pads on my car I am just going to put them in for track days.......the trip there and back shouldn't do too much damage and rotors are cheap anyways.

I bet they stop the car on a dime.......we will see on the 27th.

[tmontague]

Too bad they cannot be found online anywhere for mkII cars. I'll definitely need to find a track specific pad for next year

[tmontague]

Was out at TMP last night and had my confidence back. Due to some hot temps a few weeks ago I decided to modify my hood a little, function>form, not the prettiest but better than I thought for a rushed job

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/37943247_10156704619582743_6267622844222406656_n.j pg?_nc_cat=0&oh=c05190942c2b1368456eac786cf1a07e&oe=5C068C57

Ambient temps were a bit cooler last night than the session before but all in all it seems that the coolant temps were down 5-10 degrees and oil temps didn't go above 260. It seems to have worked bu relieving some of the high pressure behind the radiator which restricts the airflow going in during high speed.


My old Hawk HPS pads were getting low after 700 or so track km's on them and a bunch of DDing so I lightly resurfaces the rotors which were all glazed and threw on a new set of HPS'

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/37958590_10156704619727743_187529353158983680_n.jp g?_nc_cat=0&oh=74aab5c134e8d6d4b8d5cce8d99da9ed&oe=5BD8DA7F

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/37883988_10156704619677743_6108935871493308416_n.j pg?_nc_cat=0&oh=f336bdb3458eb413975da0441fc367b9&oe=5BD483B5

Needless to say it is very apparent that these pads are not up to gear with my now improved driving. I never lost brake power completely but the stopping power would be stupid inconsistent where I would hit turn 2 and the pads barely seemed to grab and scrub off speed. I will be ordering some Carbotech XP10's and a flex hone to proper resurface both sets of rotors I have. I will then run the xp10's with their own set of rotors and keep the HPS' for DDing and winter driving. It will be a bit of a pain to have to swap each time but the HPS' are downright dangerous if I'm pushing it at the track.

I also learned of how bad my tires really are, they cannot be pushed to the limit as they just let go and are very unstable. Their limit seems to be that of a 400 tw tire, this obviously does not make you feel confident heading into a high speed corner. I was running 1:34's about 4 seconds slower than my fastest lap 3 sessions ago. This was also due to the brakes but my traction is steadily dwindling. I am a much better driver now than when I started this year and I know my lines are much better than previous. I am confident with new tires, and proper brakes I can run a 1:27-1:28 but the budget is being used for brakes and a race seat for now so tires will have to wait until next year.

I also need to strip some weight off of the car but the problem is it is my DDer and I need the back seat in it for my baby seat. I'm really starting to see the benefit of having another DDer. Ron's first gen is just over 2000lbs where as mine is about 2375lbs and on the straights it is slightly apparent. I am also going to try and find someone to build me a long tube header over the winter which should help for about 10-15 whp give or take.

Brake pads are on order as there is no way I am going back to the track with the HPS pads

[tmontague]

After my last track session with Ron I had a new found motivation to stick with the Yaris chassis for the near future. He was posting a 1:26 in his first gen which is good enough to beat the typical "track day bro" in an STI or BRZ at TMP - our local track. My plan wasn't to beat a certain car, its always been to become as fast as a driver as I can while having fun and testing new things I modify or add to the car to make it faster. That said, being competitive at track days with cars that cost way more or people assume to be faster keeps the sessions fun and exciting. It also never gets old to pass STI's, WRX's, BRZ/FRS's etc while they look on with a dropped jaw at the Yaris going by.

I also refuse to do another track day with my Hawk HPS's - the brake fade is real and hitting corner 2 where the brakes sometimes do nothing and sometimes work half as good as they should is just stupid dangerous. I already ordered and picked up some Carbotech XP10's and I resurfaced both sets of my rotors with a rotor resurfacing tool that you install on a drill - not as good as a proper machine but worked good enough for what I need it for. I will daily in my HPS's and swap out rotors and pads the night before going to the track. I also picked up an older Sparco Sprint seat (first gen?) from Ron and am currently waiting on my seat base before I can install it in my car.

This will help me get back to my 1:30 time hopefully but on my current past worn tires I'm not holding my breath. Next season I'll have some new 100 tw rubber and I'll be aiming for a 1:27. If I'm fortunate enough to have a long tube header on my car by then, then even better as the extra 10-15whp definitely won't hurt.

The biggest limitation right now is the fact that this car is my daily and houses 1 (soon to be 2) car seats. I have a few extra hundred pounds sitting in my car waiting to be stripped out. It's looking like my family and I will be moving to a larger house a year or so from now and our next place will for sure have a garage. This will allow me to pick up a beater Yaris LB A/T. I can then keep my sedan in track mode and not have to swap out brake pads and what not every couple weeks. I can then strip it out and lose a bunch of weight in it.

Over a couple years I'd like to do a diy splitter as well as cams and a standalone ecu. I think the 2zr can realistically and conservatively achieve 150whp on pump gas and retain its reliability. This would make a pretty fast sleeper and should be able to post up consistent 1:25's at TMP.

I'll be back at the track on the 7th of September and hopefully I'll have the Sparco seat installed by then. I'll post back with how I find the brake pads.

[atomic_hoji]

...
The biggest limitation right now is the fact that this car is my daily and houses 1 (soon to be 2) car seats.
...


Whoa, whoa.. just sneak that in 'eh?! :eek: New bun in the oven? Congrats, man. :thumbsup:

Glad to hear you're going to keep the Yaris for a bit longer. Looking forward to see what you find for upgrades for the 2ZR - Monkey Wrench Racing has goodies, but the more wild you want to go the less there seems to be for support; at least so far as I've found from the 'armchair upgrade seat', lol.

Enjoying following the progression of the car over the past while, you've been doing an awesome job with it. Makes a good go-to for motivation.. :thumbup:

-- Adam

[ern-diz]

Whoa, whoa.. just sneak that in 'eh?! :eek: New bun in the oven? Congrats, man. :thumbsup:

Glad to hear you're going to keep the Yaris for a bit longer. Looking forward to see what you find for upgrades for the 2ZR - Monkey Wrench Racing has goodies, but the more wild you want to go the less there seems to be for support; at least so far as I've found from the 'armchair upgrade seat', lol.

Enjoying following the progression of the car over the past while, you've been doing an awesome job with it. Makes a good go-to for motivation.. :thumbup:

-- Adam

+1000

[tmontague]

thanks guys, it's definitely an exciting time for us and so far I've been having a blast teaching my 21 month old how to wrench cars and do reno's on a house. Currently his favorite activity is going through my tool box and giving me every screwdriver I possibly own. The next one is a girl so it will be fun to see them interact with one another.

MWR has a fair amount of 2zr fun bits that I would like to use but it seems to make sense to pair it up with a standalone ecu or else the gains would be negligible (ie: cams). I have always wanted to build a motor up and the parts that MWR have would make that pretty fun. Knife edged crankshaft, stiffer valve springs to raise the rev limiter up. I am confident that with a build like that with a heightened rev limiter the 2zr could be capable of fairly easily getting >150 whp on pump gas.

The budget limits this for now but it would be a great way to build an engine and learn my way around that.

I forgot to mention in my above update that I swapped out the Cusco trans fluid for some Amsoil MTG. The Cusco had some track days on it and with clutch plates the fluid suspends the wear bits so you don't want to run it too long. I didn't go with the Cusco due to the cost of it and I have ran the Amsoil before and was happy with the price and performance. My LSD was chattering like crazy so I went out and bought some CRC lsd fiction modifier and slowly added in a couple quarts at a time. I finally found the sweet spot at around 4.5-5 ounces. keep in mind I over fill my trans a bit and I have around 300-400mls extra in there (fill it while the front is jacked up).

Amsoil also has a friction modifier but I couldn't easily obtain it and I didn't want to wait for shipping so I went with what I could fine around here. It is now fairly quiet how it originally was but still locks as it should.

[fujiwaru]

After my last track session with Ron I had a new found motivation to stick with the Yaris chassis for the near future. He was posting a 1:26 in his first gen which is good enough to beat the typical "track day bro" in an STI or BRZ at TMP - our local track. My plan wasn't to beat a certain car, its always been to become as fast as a driver as I can while having fun and testing new things I modify or add to the car to make it faster. That said, being competitive at track days with cars that cost way more or people assume to be faster keeps the sessions fun and exciting. It also never gets old to pass STI's, WRX's, BRZ/FRS's etc while they look on with a dropped jaw at the Yaris going by.



I feel the same way, but more along the lines of trying to catch up to the autox times all the other cars are posting while I try to improve my yaris/driver skills along the way.

[Runethecursed]

You can do it, to both things. even under stock powered 1nz's the car will teach you how to momentum drive, and its rather easy to work on and with.

[tmontague]

Headed out to TMP last night and unfortunately my seat bracket had not come in yet (should be here Monday) so I was stuck using oem seats and flying around the cabin. I was able to get used to my track pads (Carbotech xp10's) for the first time and all I can say is wow. I swapped out rotors and pads the morning of and bedded them in before I left for the track - I have a dedicated set of rotors for these pads.

It's a different animal when you have track pads than street pads and it is much safer. I likely still have a second to shave off each lap just in braking but I need to build up the balls to get to that point. It's amazing how late I can brake now and how much speed scrubs off in such a short amount of time. It would fully kick in the abs after the straightaways and I'd have to manage the car from wiggling when the tires locked up.

I did about 140km's yesterday with 4 session of about 40 minutes and I never once experienced brake fade. They were always consistent and the pads didn't wear down much at all. I ended up going through 3/4 of a tank of gas which was more than usual so that says a lot for how much driving I did. I also broke the weld on my muffler and it ended up melting my rear bumper. I removed the muffler for now and the sound is awesome but much too loud to daily in.

My fastest lap was a 1:30:22 and the lap after that I was on par for 30secs faster with 1 corner to go but I caught traffic and had to slow down. I realistically would have cracked the 1:30's by a bit but after the 4th session I packed it in as I was starting to feel tired. Oddly enough this was one of the first track sessions where I was becoming faster each time out. Likely due to getting more and more comfortable with a track pads. The tires are still my largest limiter and I cannot corner nearly as fast as I should. It will be interesting next season how much time I will shave off with new rubber and faster cornering speeds.

I will be out again in 2 weeks as my wife's due date for baby #2 is coming up soon in about 4 weeks so once the baby is here it will be it for my track days this year. I will at least have one session to try out the Sparco seat, I was flying around everywhere in the tight twisty corner yesterday - especially during the few back to back corners where I now no longer hit the brakes.

I had another handful of people come up to me and ask about the car and how long I've been driving. There was a huge Subie group out in their WRX's that was really interested in the car which was pretty neat. A few of them thought my car was s/c and were surprised to hear it was an NA 2zr. In a sea of Mustangs and WRX's people apparently love seeing a Yaris rip around the corners at the limit. There is a large radius turn where people sit and watch behind a big concrete median and I noticed that many of the big V8 cars out there weren't pushing nearly as hard at the corner but instead relying on the big engines to pull them fast into the straight out of the corner. They typically cornered at about 60km/h. When I got more comfortable with the corner I was able to get up to about 78km/h with the tires screaming. People apparently loved watching that. I was also able to get the point by multiple times from a Celica GT-S (haven't seen one of those around here for years)

Like I said before, driving a slow car fast is much more rewarding than a fast car slow. I'm hoping to break the 1:30 next time out and then that will be it for me this year. Time to save up for a long tube header, new gauges and new 100tw tires.

[06YarisRS]

Time for a dash cam. :thumbup:

[thebarber]

Sweet

[ern-diz]

Surprised you didn't get any brake fade running the factory lines. Usually the fluid heats up and the lines start to give a little, no?

[tmontague]

Zero fade even after 40 minutes of hard laps. You should never experience fading with a proper pad as long as you are in the appropriate heat ranges. I experienced fade before due to using a street pad and getting the temps well above its range.

I currently have ss front brake lines but even with OEM lines no grade should be felt with proper pads. I bleed my brakes every 3 track events so the fluid is fresh and is a mild high performance dot 3 fluid but not an expensive race fluid.

As long as you don't boil brake fluid - which is hard to do in a light car if you keep the fluid fresh - you won't experience a loss in braking.

After using these pads in an now say that upgrading to larger brakes are pointless for performance in this car. As other have stated pads are all you need. I could lock up the tires (w/ abs kicking in) when I'd hit the brakes into a sharp corner after a long straightaway. Thus was on r compounds tires as well although they are heat cycled out

[CrankyOldMan]

In a sea of Mustangs and WRX's people apparently love seeing a Yaris rip around the corners at the limit. There is a large radius turn where people sit and watch behind a big concrete median and I noticed that many of the big V8 cars out there weren't pushing nearly as hard at the corner but instead relying on the big engines to pull them fast into the straight out of the corner. They typically cornered at about 60km/h. When I got more comfortable with the corner I was able to get up to about 78km/h with the tires screaming. People apparently loved watching that. I was also able to get the point by multiple times from a Celica GT-S (haven't seen one of those around here for years)

Like I said before, driving a slow car fast is much more rewarding than a fast car slow. I'm hoping to break the 1:30 next time out and then that will be it for me this year. Time to save up for a long tube header, new gauges and new 100tw tires.
So much this.

I was at Grattan speedway on Labor day for an almost-full-course autox. Came in 4th of 6 in HS with the Echo (behind a pair of Fiesta STs and a Civic DX) but beat a full sized sedan by a second and a half. He clearly had me on the straights, but I didn't have to lift in the sweepers. Momentum cars FtW!

[ern-diz]

:thumbsup:

[tmontague]

Although this thread originally started as my 2zr build thread to help others who plan on this in the future - it has now become more of a thread about my musings in regards to tracking my daily driven and 2zr swapped car. My hope is that this helps anyone else down the road who has some questions regarding tracking there car and my posts guide them on making the best choices for their car. I was helped by many others in the past who posted about their experiences on the track so I'm hoping to do the same.

I headed out to TMP yesterday evening and got even more familiar with my new Carbotech xp10 pads. I was able to brake slightly later as felt more and more confident. I ended up finally breaking 1:30 and ended up with a fastest lap of 1:29:91. My goal at the start of the season was to break 1:30 so i'm happy with how it all went. I also realized that some of my major snap oversteer with the tires was actually too high of cold temps. I originally had it set up with 32f/29R and last night worked it down to 30.5/28 and noticed that the tires felt much more stable and the over steer limit was much improved. The frotn tires after the session were the cleanest I have ever seen and I'm finally getting some proper outside shoulder wear. The rears still need to drop a bit in pressure to have adequate wear.

This was the last session of the year for me as my wife is about a week or two away from popping out baby #2. I also plan on having new rubber on the car for next season. Leaning towards toyo r888r's which iirc are a 100tw tire. Ron had good things to say about them as have others I have spoken with. They seem to be very forgiving at their limit which is what my current R1's lack and I need a forgiving tire to improve pushing my limit as a driver.

Car ran excellent, no more coolant loss every since I switched back to the oem rad cap. It was a stupid hot day until the sun dropped and coolant peaked up to 234F. Notg an issue but still pretty high. I want to look into getting a dual core rad down the road but there are no bolt in options that I'm aware of for a 2nd gen yaris :frown: I'll probably have to wait until this becomes a track only car and I do an a/c delete then I'll have to have a universal one put in with the help of a fab shop.

Oil pressure stayed around 45psi give or take when the rpm's were close to redline. I'm currently running Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30 (oem spec is 0w20) and when this car is only track driven the plan is to go to pennzoil UP 5w40. My winter oil is a mobil 1 0w30 and it works fine. I will be doing a full UOA on this oil when I drain it before the winter. I am current at 13,500km and about 700-900 km's of that is heavy track use. I use toyota oem filters changed at 8k km's. I am interested to see how well the oil held up and will post my results.

Currently my glowshift oil temp gauge has a broken wire and it's pinged at full hot. I plan on running AEM digital gauges on the A oillar for next season. Glowshift did the trick but are cheap, noisey, not all that accurate and the wiring makes for a headache compared to the loom that come with the AEM gauges.

This was the first time I got to experience a racing seat at the track. Huge difference and definitely a worthy upgrade albeit not a cheap one when you factor in seat brackets/rails. I am now sitting lower and the steering wheel is a bit too far away from my ideal driving position (which I'll address later with an aftermarket wheel) but damn I wasn't thrown around one bit. During the tight 3 back to back moderate speed corners where I would be bucked around like crazy before, I never once had to worry about my left foot placement to brace myself. I was able to bit all of my concern and energy into driving which made a huge difference.

highlight of last night was having a c7 z06 come up behind me on the first straight away before turn 1. I was going to do my cool down lap but when I saw him behind me I figure why not go for another hot lap and see how long I can hold him of. The tires were sticky and I was feeling good. He just caught me before turn one and I braked late and hit the turn a bit more ballsy then normal. I realized I gapped him a bit and then he caught me before turn 2. I gapped him a bit after taking turn 2 at ther absolute limit of the tires (aprox 95km/h) then headed into the back to back tight moderate speeds turns. With no straightaways to catch me I gapped him some more and by the time I was at the last corner onto the last straightaway he was at least 4 seconds behind me. Turned out this was my PB lap! Although this clearly wasn't a very good driver, he wasn't being shy on the corners and was pushing pretty hard.

The main issue I've come across tracking a yaris is that people don't give you the point by because they think you are slow since it's a Yaris, even when you are on their ass the whole lap. I had a miata infront of me (not a great driver) that I clearly was much faster than and was on his ass and in all 4 passing zones he never pointed me by. Technically you are not supposed to pass unless signalled but he blew a corner too wide so I took the inside on him. Later in the paddocks when I was chatting to him he said "Man you are fast with that thing, I couldn't believe it when I looked in my rear view mirror and saw a Yaris, I was like no way it's faster than me" :rolleyes:

I used to use permatex regular synthetic brake grease and noticed after each track session is became very dry and heavy and had to be replaced. I looked at the specs and it's only good to around 500F. As a side I also used the red stuff Hawk sends with their pads - it is only good for greasing up the metal contacts on the pad backing plate. Do not use it on sliders it is much too thick and gums up after a track session. I decided to go with the expensive purple permatex synthetic ceramic grease. After yesterdays 140km worth of 5 session the grease was still as smooth as when I applied it. No issues what so ever and I highly recommend this brake grease to anyone who tracks their car - well worth the money.

When putting my street pads back on the car today I noticed that my passenger side endlink that came with my BC coil overs is toast. The top joint is loose to the point you can wiggle it and make it clunk with your hand. These are less than 5 months old. I will be contacting BC for warranty issue but I'm not sure if they count this as a wear item. I went online and noticed that they only charge $17.50 CAD for new ones! that is stupid cheap and i'm happy to see that as I can pick up a few to have on hand as needed.

I also found out that my drivers side CV axle (the aftermarket shorter Tercel one) I installed early this year has a fair amount of play in the inner joint. My original oem passenger side one is still rock solid. The drivers side axle has a 1 years warranty so I'll be getting a replacement for that. Aftermarket axles are cheap in price but also cheap in quality. I'll see how many more aftermarket ones I have to go through but I may have to see if I can get that axle in an OEM reman'd version. There are companies that make them and offer lifetime warranty and they tend to be about half the price of oem ones.

The plan for the this winter as I save up some cash to make my car faster is to buy/find a long tube header, aem gauges, aftermarket steering wheel with a 3" dish to bring it closer to me with my new seat, extra xp10 brake pads as well as some proper higher performance rear pads and 100tw semi slick tires.

I'll also be trying out some goodrich brake lines as the current stoptech SS ones I have are bent very sharply due to the length/design and they are cracked in so a lot fo different places. They still function fine but I don't trust them past about a year of hard use.

This is all for now, next year I'll be looking to make a new PB of a sub 1:27, we will see how that goes.

[Runethecursed]

" I was like no way it's faster than me" :rolleyes:


I got that alot in STS racing the car down here.

they where like "and how much power does it have?" the only guys I couldnt stab is a fully prepped EF hatchback and the driver and his co-driver which also have years more experience than I have. oh and my roomate who has the balls to the walls approach with his mazda 2

[ArmstrongRacing]

#5

[tmontague]

I've been a little MIA lately, my daughter is now 5 weeks old and my son almost 2. Needless to say my focus has been on my family and doing as much as possible with them. My son however is obsessed with my "race car" and loves helping me wrench when ever he can. Our latest project was installing new headlights. He banged a wrench around the bumper, kept looking under the car and handing me new tools - it was a great time.

I ended up getting rid of my HID projectors. The lenses were in need of serious work as the Clear protectant I used started to crack off after a few years. I was tired of having issues and having to troubleshoot them (latest one was one of the halo's flickering and not working - issue with inner soldering work when they were manufactured). I also hated having an engine bay full of wires.

The light output was great in the city but sub par on rural roads and high beams were useless. I liked the style points they gave, but they looked weathered. It would have taken a lot of effort to sand them all down again and I didn't want the trouble of having to open them back up again and then re seal only to fix the halo drl. I don't like how the oem headlights look on a dark car with them being silver. This was one of the main reasons for doing the retrofit, I painted the shrouds black so they matched better with the body color of the car.

However, I found oem type headlights on ebay (and Amazon) for $100 USD shipped freeto my US PO box that had a black shroud. The only silver parts was the reflectors for the main headlights. For that price and their good looks there was no way I was passing that up. The headlights fit perfectly and they look awesome. I opted for some Silvannia extra vision headlight bulbs as they seem to be the best balance of cost, longevity and performance. I'm not a fan of the blue tinted lights as they reduce lumens and leads to the need to overdrive the filament to create the same amount of light. I am beyond pleased with these as they fit excellent and make the car look much better overall with their brand new lenses. I ceramic coated them and will do so often so they should last a while. I now have a clean engine bay except for the one relay I have for my dual horn set up.

https://i.imgur.com/vzi1Ae5.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/tyBkokA.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/w6xAbNI.jpg?1

I recently installed some AEM x series gauges (oil temp and pressure) and have a 3rd pod on my a pillar for an AFR sensor down the road. I used an a pillar pod from ebay that apparently fits a yaris. It does not and even if it did there is no way to mount it to the a pillar. I just trimmed up and used self tapping screws to screw it into the facotry a pillar. Looks clean and works well.

I am impressed with the gauges, much better build quality then glowshift. They are prices somewhat reasonably considering the quality you get. They works well and the install is fairly simple, at least compared to the glowshift garbage I had. I did have one issue with them as the oil temps sensor connectors are not snug like the pressure sensors are. If I wiggle the sensor I can get the gauge to read "sens" which means the connection is disrupted. There should be no play int he connectors. I have been emailing AEM and they sent me a new harness to try. I will be swapping that connector and seeing if it fixes the issue. The issue could be the sensor side connector so I have to try this first.

The harness they sent me have a completely uncrimped ground wire pin. Not very impressed. That said, AEM has been in constant communication with me and has always responded quickly and was very apologetic. They didn;t make me uninstall the gauge and resend it all back like they originally wanted me to after I told them how much extra cost and time that would be to me. I have temporarily shimmed the sensor snug with a thin piece of plastic and it has been working perfectly. This will work until I get under the car again to test the new connector.

All in all I would buy future AEM products as their communication has been top notch.

I am currently waiting for my new steering wheel and quick release to arrive. It's a 3" deep dish wheel so it should fix my seat position issue I am currently having with my race seat and oem wheel. I'll post a brief review about that once I've installed it.

I will be ordering some Nankang AR-1's or Toyo r888r's for next season as well as upgrading my rear brake pads to something that can handle track temps. Other than that, the only other thing I'm hoping to get done for next year is have a custom long tube header built. Due to RPM no longer making their long tube header for a really good price, I'l be stuck having a local fabrication shop do the work for boatloads more then it would have cost for rpm's unit.

I'm hoping to have the cash this winter to have it done for next season, but this is the one thing that may have to wait until the season after. It would really complete the factory tuned engine and get me close to 150 whp. We'll see if it happens but I'm crossing my fingers.

I also plan on stripping out some of the car this summer. I won't be removing the a/c or any seats until i have another daily driver, but I'll be removing some panels in the rear, potentially the speakers and what ever else I think would be helpful. I'll be picking Tom's brain on this one. Oh, and lastly I am hoping to have a battery reloaction done over the winter. It isn't too expensive and would make for a fun project. It will help with the balance of the car but it will also free up some space in the engine bay every time I pressure bleed my brake or need to access the transmission mount.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Awesome looking car man, I'm really jealous you get to daily drive it.

Speaking of daily driving, since you have the 4.3FD you can buy just a taller 5th gear for better mpg/lower rpm. Email this guy and ask for the .725 5th gearset from a 03-09 Corolla; mmerlimm@teleport.com

When you are ready I can send you the tools, just return them when you're done.

[stidnam]

Didn't realise you were running hypergrams :) good looking wheel. Any side shots?

Any scrubbing with the 195/55 setup? Rolled guards?

[06YarisRS]

Headlights look great! Would love to see pics of your gauges setup. I was thinking how nice it would be to have oil temp, pressure and trans temp, since I can't get that with on my head unit in Torque like in my van. I was looking at the compartment cover just behind my steering wheel in the Yaris. Would be the perfect place, although they'd be obscured when I turned the wheel.

I wonder if this would work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-06-08-Toyota-Yaris-A-Full-Pillar-3X-Holes-Gauge-Pod/330738562348?fits=Model%3AYaris%7CMake%3AToyota&epid=16004654485&hash=item4d018df52c:g:~MQAAOSwWMhaYD0F:rk:1:pf:0

https://i.imgur.com/09YC8Ab.jpg

[tmontague]

Awesome looking car man, I'm really jealous you get to daily drive it.

Speaking of daily driving, since you have the 4.3FD you can buy just a taller 5th gear for better mpg/lower rpm. Email this guy and ask for the .725 5th gearset from a 03-09 Corolla; mmerlimm@teleport.com

When you are ready I can send you the tools, just return them when you're done.

Thanks man, I miss it on weekends since it normally sits in the driveway while we use the Vibe. It's a blast and even when i have another daily it will still be street legal thanks to no longer needing etests - I'll still be able to take it out for a rip when I feel like it.

Thanks for the info on the 5th gear. It will be needed for tracks like mosport when i start there soon. Is that the sake gear that we chatted about a while ago that was a matrix gear?

Didn't realise you were running hypergrams :) good looking wheel. Any side shots?

Any scrubbing with the 195/55 setup? Rolled guards?

Thanks, I'm happy with them, they are 15x7.5 +35. I rolled my rear fenders for my track set up which are 205's and I have 10mm spacers on the rear. No rubbing iron issues, fronts are not rolled but I'm running -1.5 rear and -2.8 front camber which helps. It's a nice looking aggressive set up when looking head on at the car

Headlights look great! Would love to see pics of your gauges setup. I was thinking how nice it would be to have oil temp, pressure and trans temp, since I can't get that with on my head unit in Torque like in my van. I was looking at the compartment cover just behind my steering wheel in the Yaris. Would be the perfect place, although they'd be obscured when I turned the wheel.

I wonder if this would work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-06-08-Toyota-Yaris-A-Full-Pillar-3X-Holes-Gauge-Pod/330738562348?fits=Model%3AYaris%7CMake%3AToyota&epid=16004654485&hash=item4d018df52c:g:~MQAAOSwWMhaYD0F:rk:1:pf:0

https://i.imgur.com/09YC8Ab.jpg

I'll take a pic as soon as my new wheel is installed (currently delayed due to postal strike)

That is the gauge pod I bought. I cut off the bottom and top part so it is essentially just a screw on piece with 3 pods

[06YarisRS]

I'll take a pic as soon as my new wheel is installed (currently delayed due to postal strike)

That is the gauge pod I bought. I cut off the bottom and top part so it is essentially just a screw on piece with 3 pods

The listing says that it fits both sedans and hatchbacks. How was the fit out of the box? It's looks close to the color of my RS interior trim. I have to institute a bit of a spending freeze after the swap, but I can see me having oil temp, oil pressure and trans temp in one of these pods!

[tmontague]

Fit is terrible, the bottom portion is way to big and wont fit and the top curve doesn't match up properly. There isn't any place to put the plastic push pins in it either so you couldn't use it to replace your oem cover even if it did fit

[ArmstrongRacing]

. .(....Is that the sake gear that we chatted about a while ago that was a matrix gear?)


Yes that’s correct, it’s the tallest gear we can get for these transmissions. It’s the same ratio as my 6th.

[06YarisRS]

Fit is terrible, the bottom portion is way to big and wont fit and the top curve doesn't match up properly. There isn't any place to put the plastic push pins in it either so you couldn't use it to replace your oem cover even if it did fit

Well, that sucks! You wouldn't think it would be that hard to make a good-fitting one from an actual piece as a template. :frown:

[tmontague]

Here's a cockpit shot

https://i.imgur.com/fXfXpMul.jpg

I installed the steering wheel with functional horn today (no SRS light so pasenger airbag is fully functional). I took a ton of pics and plan on doing a full write up on how to properly wire a horn. There are no proper DIY guides online for this except a bunch of terrible instructional videos from a few highschool kids.

The steering wheel is now at a proper distance away from my chest and I no longer hit my legs with my hands when turning the steering wheel

https://i.imgur.com/g8zmlNB.jpg?1

[ArmstrongRacing]

That looks awesome!

[tmontague]

Thanks to Adam I received my badge and installed it earlier today. I didn't install it on my front grill as I have a TRD badge there that I like and my '08 grill doesn't really have space for the TSport badge. I ended up taking a hacksaw to the rear mounting tabs and cutting them flush. I then used my bench top grinder and ground them flat and roughed up the back surface. Then installed 3M double sided automotive tape. I trimmed the tape and then installed th new badge.

I had to remove my old crappy knock off badge and wiped it with Goo Gone. Just make sure you wipe off the old Goo Gone with alcohol before you install the new badge or else it won't stick. The oem Tsport badge is much better quality and it is coated in a urethane so the badge won't get worn out or caught on a micro fiber towel like my old one did

https://i.imgur.com/MRh8HZY.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/YDwsh2I.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/6Fl7yiP.jpg?1

The other day I got tired of not having anything to do on my car so I decided to strip out as much of the interior as I could while still keeping my one child's car seat in place. Below is as far as I was able to go and I even kept the dome light in place. I used some aluminum tape to hold down the wires and it worked well. I also re installed the passenger side "holy shit bar" since I have yet to install a passenger side race seat.

The radio was by far the heaviest thing I removed from the car, it must weigh at least 12-15lbs. I have to keep the HVAC and a/c as I can no longer roll down any windows except the driver side and I need the a/c for my kids in the summer for the odd time I pick them up from day care. I'll find out in ther spring how much weight I've stripped so far but I should be below 2300lbs now with an almost full tank.

https://i.imgur.com/0LiS9Vb.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/aPTwyIb.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/dO0D5R2.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/KWGYDcD.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/3mKHm72.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/CuqN9pL.jpg?1

I'll post later this weekend about my future plans with the care over the winter

[06YarisRS]

It would be interesting to know what the total weight of removed materials is. Could you use a bathroom scale holding each piece and subtracting your weight, then total the differences? I'm going to guess that you have lightened the car by ~ 60 lbs. It may sound silly to the average car person to care about minor weight reductions, but for racing, that's a different story. Badge looks great!

[Ronnie V]

Nice seat! Like I mentioned, anytime you want to see total weight it's 20 minutes to roll it on my scales.

Corner weighting will take considerably longer. ;)

[atomic_hoji]

And my wife calls my car the ghetto-mobile! :eek: lol

Jokes aside, the car is looking awesome man. :thumbsup: You, Tom, Jason, ... there's a growing number proving "hardcore" and "Yaris" in the same sentence can be done, lol.

-- Adam

[tmontague]

I don't have a scale at home so it won't be possible for me to weigh what I have removed. That said, Ron has been kind enough to offer his corner balance scales to use so I'll be heading down his way soon to see where I'm at. I was around 2370lbs prior to this with an almost full tank of gas, and I think I removed around 60lbs.

Two big heavy items that I wish I could remove but cannot until I have another DD'er is the complete rear seat and heavy brackets as well as the a/c and hvac system. There is probably at least 50-70lbs in those alone.

As I stated in a few posts earlier my family will be looking to upsize our house after next winter which means a garage and a driveway that can fit a minivan (yup, I'm becoming cool soon). This means in over a year I'll use my wife's current car ('05 awd pontaic vibe). The plan is to strip out the rest of the Yaris as well as the inner door skins and replace the glass with lexan or polycarbonate. I'm hoping to get the weight below 2000lbs. The passenger seat will be replaced with a proper race seat as well.

For this winter the plan was to use my tax return money for a custom fabricated long tube header. However, this will cost over $1500 as I also need the rest of my exhaust reworked as it is rattling and banging my rear suspension. The more I thought about it the less it made sense. I've had my mind set on the long tube header for a long time because it used to be sold for a great affordable price (~$375). However I failed to realise that for the price it would now cost me there seem to be much better ways to spend that money and go fast. We no longer need e tests in Ontario so stand alone ecu's are now an option for a street legal car and I think that this would be a great bang for the buck mod. I don't want to run a tune until I have another DDer just in cased things go south.

The plan is to focus on weight and reliability to get me ready for a future built engine. The long term plan for this car is to use available bolt on options and make this car a competitive track car that competes in grassroots time attack series. Monkey Wrench Racing sells a lot of 2zr engine components that would make a seriously fast engine. With stage 2 cams, upgraded valve springs and 12:1 compression pistons I'm confident this engine could make between 150 and 180 whp on pump gas with an 8k red line. That is the long term goal.

For the winter I'll be relocating the battery to behind the passenger seat. The benefit of this is not only better weight distribution, but much less clutter in the engine bay every time I bleed my brakes and/or need to remove the trans. I can now disconnect the battery with a flip of the breaker.

I'll be installing a 1st gen dual row radiator and converting the other necessary parts to make that work to fix my high coolant temp issue. And as always planned I'll be picking up another set of carbotech xp10 front pads and a set of Nankang AR-1 tires. If there is any cash left over after that it will go to getting my exhaust rebuilt and potentially a DC sports header although I'm not convinced it is worth the cash yet. I'll update the thread as I slowly install each part.

Side note: the Redline mt-85 fluid has been exceptional in the trans with the clutch type lsd. No chatter, even on -5 degree start ups and it still locks uo with no issue. I can confidently say that this is the fluid I'll be running all next season. Likely mt-90 for the summer though due to the heat. I'd recommend this to anyone with a clutch type lsd in their Yaris

[06YarisRS]

Do any of the 2zz 6 speed configurations come with an LSD? Have you considered a 2zz swap? There's your 170 - 180 hp, 8k revving engine. For fun I've been watching ebay and there's a few engine/trans combos available - imported and tested. I've looked at cams on Monkeywrench Racing as well, but stage 1.

I've also wondered if there would be room under the hood of the 2zr equipped Yaris for one of the TKC turbo kits.

All of the above purely for my entertainment, of course

[tmontague]

Turbo kit would likely fit no issue, but I'm more of a fan of high revving NA engines. Plus turbo brings more issues with heat soak and reliability problems.

Imho the 2zz is old technology, it wasnt bad and for the time it was a performance engine from Toyota (read: Yamaha) who really wasnt putting out much in that department. But those hp numbers are at the crank so it's comparing apples to oranges. A 2zr with high compression, cams and a high rev range should be able to easily match the 2zz but in a package that is already in my car and not a whole different swap.

If I was going to go to that trouble and cost I'd go with a Honda K24. 220whp NA all day. The point of where I'm going with this build over the next few years is one that you don't have to pay a shop to fabricate engine mounts and other completely custom stuff. I want to show people that they can buy a 12 year old 2nd gen yaris for cheap, gut it and do an engine swap and with bolt ons, achieve a lightweight fairly fast track car

[ArmstrongRacing]

Don’t cut it up man, you’re going to miss it as a fun daily

[06YarisRS]

Turbo kit would likely fit no issue, but I'm more of a fan of high revving NA engines. Plus turbo brings more issues with heat soak and reliability problems.

Imho the 2zz is old technology, it wasnt bad and for the time it was a performance engine from Toyota (read: Yamaha) who really wasnt putting out much in that department. But those hp numbers are at the crank so it's comparing apples to oranges. A 2zr with high compression, cams and a high rev range should be able to easily match the 2zz but in a package that is already in my car and not a whole different swap.

If I was going to go to that trouble and cost I'd go with a Honda K24. 220whp NA all day. The point of where I'm going with this build over the next few years is one that you don't have to pay a shop to fabricate engine mounts and other completely custom stuff. I want to show people that they can buy a 12 year old 2nd gen yaris for cheap, gut it and do an engine swap and with bolt ons, achieve a lightweight fairly fast track car

Ah, all makes sense to me. I wasn't aware that the 2ZR could produce that power. The cams sound really promising. I did read that the 2ZZ has similar power output up to ~6500 RPM, then it comes on a lot stronger. Very informative stuff. Thanks.

[Ronnie V]

<2000lbs + 150whp = 1.22.9 at TMP

:thumbup:

[tmontague]

Don’t cut it up man, you’re going to miss it as a fun daily

It can still be driven in the street cut up. I just wont he dailying it. There is way to much speed left in this car is I keep it comfortable as a daily, its already past the point if a comfy daily for me

<2000lbs + 150whp = 1.22.9 at TMP

:thumbup:

Haha yup, as long as the driver is good enough

[ern-diz]

Do you guys think removing the rear seat and related hardware would throw the overall balance off much, or affect rigidity? Is there a point of diminishing returns?

[tmontague]

I dont think it would affect rigidity too much and likely not enough weight to really throw off the balance. If anything it may help the rear rotate more, but probably bit a big difference

[thebarber]

Ah, all makes sense to me. I wasn't aware that the 2ZR could produce that power. The cams sound really promising. I did read that the 2ZZ has similar power output up to ~6500 RPM, then it comes on a lot stronger. Very informative stuff. Thanks.

My last vibe GT made 165whp with just an intake, fwiw.

But a 2zz/c60 won’t fit without cutting from rails, iirc.

I always thought the 2zr is the way to go in a Yaris..

[06YarisRS]

My last vibe GT made 165whp with just an intake, fwiw.

But a 2zz/c60 won’t fit without cutting from rails, iirc.

I always thought the 2zr is the way to go in a Yaris..

That was the 2.4 in the GT, right? Oops, disregard. Not the 2.4.

[tmontague]

My last vibe GT made 165whp with just an intake, fwiw.

But a 2zz/c60 won’t fit without cutting from rails, iirc.

I always thought the 2zr is the way to go in a Yaris..

That's not too shabby for just an intake. If someone was looking to compare bone stock engines and didn't mins the frame (and money wasnt as issue) then yes a 2zz would make the most sense. But when looking into aftermarket parts and running a standalone ecu I think the 2zr makes a lot more sense

[tmontague]

I received an online gift card from my work for the holidays so I put it to use on Amazon. Ordered a proper catch can to replace my dual air compressor air/water separators. I also picked up a Mishimoto magnetic transmission plug as per Tom's recommendations. It was priced fairly well and it seems like a good idea since I have a clutch type lsd.

I had some extra cash left over so I also ordered a TRD radiator cap. It is overpriced for what it is but the online gift card was very limiting on where I could use it and Amazon Canada isn't great for automotive part inventory. It's more of a "just in case" part. I will be properly dealing with the cooling issues with a dual core radiator in the summer, but the extra pressure that the TRD cap offers is just some extra protection from boiling in case something goes wrong and the coolant temps creep up again.

I also found a local guy about an hour away who was parting out his 2000 Echo that his buddy crashed. I pulled the radiator hoses, fan shroud and coolant fill neck. They are all in surprisingly good condition, I'm assuming the hoses had been replaced one time in their life. All I need now for the rad swap is an ebay dual core radiator and I'll probably also order some silicone hoses too just in case.

That's all for now, I'm anxiously awaiting updates on the long tube header ;)

[myfirstyota]

I like free parts!

[tmontague]

Welp, I installed my Mishimoto magnetic transmission plug this weekend (went in without any issues into the fill hole), and while in there I inspected my engine bay to make sure everything was Kosher. Sure enough, I find some greenish yellow a/c die around my low pressure discharge hose that goes into the compressor. My first thought "well its a darn good thing I added dye into the system as it makes diagnosis much easier". My second thought was "damn, my a/c system is now toast" - I haven't actually confirmed 100% but it appears my 11 year old low pressure hose has blown all the refrigerant out at the metal/rubber crimp. A common place of failures, especially on Nissan's and it appears this just happened to be due to age.

No hoses were rubbing and everything looked sound. Now I'm faced with the dilemma, do I spend around $100 CAD for an aftermarket hose, plus r134 (which I already have) and the hour or so repairing the leak for just one more summer of DDing the car, or do I pocket the cash and strip out all my a/c components now and put my car on a 30-40ish pound diet?

For me it is an easy answer but keep in mind I will be picking up my son occasionally from day care this summer and it is nice to have a/c for him as well as anytime I am dressed nicely and heading to a dinner or something and don't want to sweat my through my clothes. At this point I have convinced my wife to just leave the a/c system no functioning for the rare occasion I am picking up the kids in my car and it happens to be 35 degrees C out. When I stripped my interior, I kept the window switches connected and zip tied so I still have full control of the windows on those hot days.

It looks like my car will become a bit lighter over the next couple months, albeit a whole lot hotter this summer...

I also loosely test fitted the 1st gen radiator and it appears that the upper rad hose will clear the 2zr without issue. The problem point will actually be the DC sports CAI as the throttle body on the 2zr is at an upward angle compared to the mose straight 1nz TB. I am either going to have to find a comparable 30mm upper hose form another car or just put some sort of rubber material between the hose and the intake tube as they will likely be rubbing. The problem is I will not actually know how well it will or won't work until the new rad and shroud are in their actual places. This will likely have to be saved until the spring when I drain my winter coolant for the summer stuff ansd then I can mix and match the rads without making a mess

[06YarisRS]

...it appears my 11 year old low pressure hose has blown all the refrigerant out at the metal/rubber crimp.

Sure that's not because there is extra tension on there as the distance to the port with the 2ZR swap is a bit farther? Is it the crimp at the bottom of the low pressure side? Mine has some tension on it too, though much less than before I bent the aluminum tube part. I think the engine rocking back and forth a bit with that tension might fatigue the rubber where it's crimped.

Once you ditch your condensor, you can put a nice big oil cooler on there, LOL!
Have you done the spin-on oil filter conversion? Can't recall if you mentioned that.

[tmontague]

That's a possibility but I rechecked it tonight and the hoses have virtually no stress on them. I spent time when I did the swap bending the metal part of the hose in a vice and re doing it a bunch so the rubber part had no excess stress on it.

That said it is a complete possibility since it isnt a known issue for these hoses to regularly fail on the Yaris.

I did do the filter conversion - so that I could install a sandwich plate for my oil temp and pressure gauges. I dont think I'll be getting an oil cooler. Last season with crazy hot ambient temps and my coolant running at 234 degrees I only peaked oil temps at about 285F. Once I have the larger radiator in there the problem should only improve.

I am awaiting my most recent UOA from Blackstone which I will post up here once i look at it. There should be no reason the oil cannot handle those temps. I will however be running a 40weight oil next season so the viscocity stays up to spec in those temps

[06YarisRS]

That's a possibility but I rechecked it tonight and the hoses have virtually no stress on them. I spent time when I did the swap bending the metal part of the hose in a vice and re doing it a bunch so the rubber part had no excess stress on it.

That said it is a complete possibility since it isnt a known issue for these hoses to regularly fail on the Yaris.

I did do the filter conversion - so that I could install a sandwich plate for my oil temp and pressure gauges. I dont think I'll be getting an oil cooler. Last season with crazy hot ambient temps and my coolant running at 234 degrees I only peaked oil temps at about 285F. Once I have the larger radiator in there the problem should only improve.

I am awaiting my most recent UOA from Blackstone which I will post up here once i look at it. There should be no reason the oil cannot handle those temps. I will however be running a 40weight oil next season so the viscocity stays up to spec in those temps

Although 285 for even a second would freak me out, here is a quote from BITOG - and it's for GF-4, not the current GF-5:

"...GF-4 certification is on the bottle of the oil in your crankcase, it has passed the Sequence IIIG test which exposes the oil to 300F degrees for 100 hrs at 3600 rpm."

It sounds like you're definitely ok. I assume your running a synthetic?

I really like the idea of doing the spin-on upgrade.

[tmontague]

The spin on conversion really has no benefit unless you need/want to run a sandwich adapter for gauges.
I actually prefer the original set up as it makes it much easier to view the filter and any particulates that were caught.

I do run off the shelf full synthetic oils, the current sample I'm waiting on is Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30 and my past UOA's were with Mobil 1 0w30. Unfortunately PUP and even PP isnt available locally in a 40 weight so I'll be switching to something else.

I have so far had no reason to need a boutique brand oil that costs much more. Even grade III synthetics are very stout oils and can easily compare to many IV's as they just have that many more additives to make up for it.

The next oil I have been eyeing in Canadian Tire's Formula 1 (made by Shell) as they have a 0w40 euro spec. The Euro specs have a much higher HTHS due to their use of the autobahn. This obviously pairs well with my track use.

Overall temp of a full syn oil isnt really the issue - it is the cause of the issue. If the oil thins too low then lowering temps can help that. Alternatively you can run a higher weight oil that will maintain factory spec viscocity at those higher temps. The 2zr is a factory spec'd 20 weight oil in NA but a 30 weight in hotter climates (allegedly) this is based on 212F summer oil temps of normal use. Based on my research a 40 weight should bring me closer to those viscocities at 260-280F I typically run at on track

[tmontague]

Here's some pics of the refrigerant leak
https://i.imgur.com/Az1s175.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/2DokcU0.jpg?1

as you can see, it appears to be blowing out of the crimp on the low pressure hose. For any future 2zr swap I would recommend replacing this hose with the proper xd hose. It is a relatively inexpensive part and is much easier to do when the a/c system is already apart.

There is no way to know if this was due to the yaris hose being too stressed or if it is just age, so better to be safe than sorry. FWIW, it appears the leak has gotten bigger over the past 2 days so I think it is still blowing out. I'll likely remove my ac system this weekend if I can secure a belt locally for cheap.

I also started something new last night. For a while I've notive the front grill is fairly restrictive to air flow and I wanted to do something about it but wasn't sure what. The winter time when I'm itching to work on my car is a good time for these things. Now that the car is becoming more and more of a track rat, I am concerned less about looks and more about function. I removed the front grills and just threw in some gutter guard that I picked up for $5 at my local CT.

https://i.imgur.com/Cg1zl44.jpg?1

I actually prefer the larger mouth of the grill removed and it is definitely much larger. That said, if I wanted this to look good I would use some chicken wire painted black as this gutter guard is fairly flimsy and bends and caves. As i said, I'm not concerned with that as I don't care much about making this look really good. I still have to do the lower grill this weekend. The upper grill has holes which makes it really easy to use as attachment points for zipties. The lower grill I will have to drill some hole to run zipties into.

I had originally removed the black plastic piece that sits under the upper front bumper so I could access my horns much easier if I needed to work on them (I had issues with them in the past that are now fixed). I realized now that there is a huge gap for the air to blow over the rad without that plastic piece. I will be clipping that back in so it directs the air through the radiator instead.

There is a lot more width to fit a much wider radiator in the front of the engine bay and there are even extra holes in the upper and lower rad supports. I'm curious what other radiator would be an almost direct drop in. The problem is finding the proper hoses to work with the engine and not obstruct anything else. I think for now it is best to just stick with what is known to work and go with a dual core 1st gen radiator. Others have run these in the past and they seem to offer more than enough cooling.

I hate a cluttered engine bay, I'm looking forward to getting rid of the a/c system and eventually relocating the battery. For the time being my cash is being saved until news comes in for the long tube header and the midpipe work I will need done from a local shop.

[06YarisRS]

The spin on conversion really has no benefit unless you need/want to run a sandwich adapter for gauges.
I actually prefer the original set up as it makes it much easier to view the filter and any particulates that were caught.

I do run off the shelf full synthetic oils, the current sample I'm waiting on is Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30 and my past UOA's were with Mobil 1 0w30. Unfortunately PUP and even PP isnt available locally in a 40 weight so I'll be switching to something else.

I have so far had no reason to need a boutique brand oil that costs much more. Even grade III synthetics are very stout oils and can easily compare to many IV's as they just have that many more additives to make up for it.

The next oil I have been eyeing in Canadian Tire's Formula 1 (made by Shell) as they have a 0w40 euro spec. The Euro specs have a much higher HTHS due to their use of the autobahn. This obviously pairs well with my track use.

Overall temp of a full syn oil isnt really the issue - it is the cause of the issue. If the oil thins too low then lowering temps can help that. Alternatively you can run a higher weight oil that will maintain factory spec viscocity at those higher temps. The 2zr is a factory spec'd 20 weight oil in NA but a 30 weight in hotter climates (allegedly) this is based on 212F summer oil temps of normal use. Based on my research a 40 weight should bring me closer to those viscocities at 260-280F I typically run at on track

Great explanation. I have done quite a bit of reading over the past few years at BITOG. I used to always buy synthetic, but have since returned to conventional. I'm always monitoring my coolant and oil temps in my van as Kia makes many more sensors available than Toyota. I can't get oil pressure, however. After driving for a bit, oil temps are usually ~10 - 15 degrees higher. If I apply the same logic to my Yaris, even under extreme conditions - such as bumper to bumper traffic in August - there would never be a need for anything other than an API conventional. In my old Dodge grand Caravan, I installed a homebuilt tee and monitored both oil temp and pressure with cheap electrical gauges. I also tapped the transmission lines for both a Magnaflow and temp sensor.

One synthetic I do did buy occasionally, and will still buy when it goes on clearance at Walmart USA is the SuperTech Full Synthetic. The last 6 jugs I bought, I think i paid $12.00 a jug for. According to some reports it's not a superlative looking oil on paper - with a relatively low TBN - but fares really well in UOAs.

As for the spin on filter, at some point I expect that I might add a sandwich plate and gauges since I can't get this data from OBD. And, in the unlikely event that I decide to significantly ungrade the 2ZR performance, this would obviously come in handy.

[tmontague]

Great explanation. I have done quite a bit of reading over the past few years at BITOG. I used to always buy synthetic, but have since returned to conventional. I'm always monitoring my coolant and oil temps in my van as Kia makes many more sensors available than Toyota. I can't get oil pressure, however. After driving for a bit, oil temps are usually ~10 - 15 degrees higher. If I apply the same logic to my Yaris, even under extreme conditions - such as bumper to bumper traffic in August - there would never be a need for anything other than an API conventional. In my old Dodge grand Caravan, I installed a homebuilt tee and monitored both oil temp and pressure with cheap electrical gauges. I also tapped the transmission lines for both a Magnaflow and temp sensor.

One synthetic I do did buy occasionally, and will still buy when it goes on clearance at Walmart USA is the SuperTech Full Synthetic. The last 6 jugs I bought, I think i paid $12.00 a jug for. According to some reports it's not a superlative looking oil on paper - with a relatively low TBN - but fares really well in UOAs.

As for the spin on filter, at some point I expect that I might add a sandwich plate and gauges since I can't get this data from OBD. And, in the unlikely chance that I decide to significantly ungrade the 2ZR performance, this would obviously come in handy.

oddly enough I have found that currently during the winter, oil temps hover about 10 degree lower than coolant (coolant stays around 181F) but on the highway when I'm hovering around 3.5k rpm, the oil is either equal or slightly higher than the typical 185F coolant temp.

In the middle of summer coolant will typically be 188-194F on the highway and oil around 212F. In stop and go traffic mid summer coolant peaks around 212F but tends to stay at 202F and oil around 220F max.

During 45min track session coolant stays between 220 and 235F and oil gets up to 265-290F.

I run off the shelf syn oil in all my cars simply due to the really cold winters here and how much easier it is to start them. Even my awd Vibe, gets 0w30 and syn gear lube in the differential. I have found the morning start ups much smoother, especially up North at the cottage after it sits over night. It's true that a dino 5w30 would still be pumpable at these temps, but a syn oil is that much less viscous and easier to pump, meaning easier to start and faster and better lubrication. I just wait until they are on sale and typically find 5L jugs for around $37.

I use syn oil in my car for obvious reasons. I wouldn't trust a dino oil at 290F and under high rpm for 45 mins. I have very little burning off of oil even with the summer filled with track days, likely due to the lower volatility that syn oil has.

i am interested to see how my coolant and oil temps stack up this summer without a condenser in front of my rad, a now much larger grill and a dual pass radiator. I would expect coolant to stay below 220F but as for the oil I'm not too sure.

[tmontague]

It decided to snow about 50cm on Saturday and then sit at -20C for the weekend so progress on my car was slowed. With having 2 kids now I'm limited to working on the cars about 2 hrs a day on the weekend while the little ones sleep.

I ended up purchasing some new gutter guard called "Leaf It". Same design as the one from Canadian Tire but a couple $ more and it is s thicker plastic. In re did the front grill but this time in 2 separate pieced converging in the center which lead for a much stronger and flat grill. I also drilled holes and did the bottom mouth of the grill. I am actually pretty happy with the final product and like the look over the stock look.

I got around to deleting my a/c system - well, everything except for the evaporator. I'll get to that when I remove the dash this spring. I probably got rid of about 18lbs. Not much, but there is now much more space in front of the alternator which makes removal much easier as well as a wider radiator possible. I am a huge fan of uncluttered engine bays and so far mine is moving in the correct direction. I will end up selling my compressor down the road if anyone is interested just let me know. I ordered a Dayco belt from my local supplier, they don't stock non a/c belt for Corolla's so they had to order it in. I'll post up the part number when I take pictures later this week when it warms up. I was surprised how much the a/c hoses cluttered up the passenger side crash beam and all that space there.

with the bumper off and the a/c system out I noticed that there is an 8" wide gaping space behind the bumper that is normally just covered with a plastic piece to block it off. Essentially this is 8" of extra space to fit a much wider radiator as the stock one is very small. Oddly enough my 1st gen Vibe's radiator which also uses a 1.8L engine (1zz) has a 6-8" wider radiator from the factory. I will be taking some measurements tonight but it appears that the rad should fit fine with a bunch of cutting of the upper rad support. The Vibe's rad sits in front of the rad support on brackets whereas the Yaris' rad sits underneath the rad support beam.

It makes more sense to go wider with a rad than just thicker as you achieve more virgin surface area and improve cooling ability better than by going thicker. This is due to the second row receiving already used air that is warmer than ambient temps. The measurements are very close (Vibe rad about an inch shorter in height) so with some drilling of new hole in the support and the Vibe's upper and lower hoses it appears to be a good fit. The upper hose from the vibe actually appears to have better clearance with my CAI than the 1st gen rad. There are also cheap ebay dual core rads for almost the same amount of $ as the 1st gens.

I'll post back when I have more info as this would be good to know for those that want to upgrade their radiator down the road but so far everything seems like it would work. I'll post pictures in a couple days, it is just too darn cold right now to bother

[myfirstyota]

+1 on too darn cold
I'm gonna follow this rad quest... Interesting...

[06YarisRS]

I'll post back when I have more info as this would be good to know for those that want to upgrade their radiator down the road but so far everything seems like it would work. I'll post pictures in a couple days, it is just too darn cold right now to bother

I'll definitely be following this. It will be good to know what rad, hoses (or mods to hoses) are needed. The hatchback has the access window for the A/C compressor that could easily be narrowed making room for a - at least - longer radiator. A larger radiator might come in handy down the road if I do performance upgrades on the 2ZR.

[tmontague]

Here is the part # for the Dayco belt I used for an a/c delete:

5060358
or
6PK0910

Rock auto also lists a Continental belt, just make sure you order one that that "no a/c"

The belt I removed from the car (I cannot remember the manufacturer) which I ordered from RA when I did my swap only had about 50k km on it. It had a lot of mini cracks along the ribs, enough to warrant replacement. I've seen spread out large cracks which are fine, but this one had a lot of little ones, quite a few every inch. I also noticed that the back side of the belt in one small spot looked like the outer layer was starting the peel off the belt. I used my Gates belt wear tester to check and it had a mild to moderate amount of play meaning that the belt was moderately worn.

The new one had no play as it should. Keep this is mind as I was surprised at how worn the belt was. I'm not sure if this is due to the high constant rpm of the track days I did and the heat that comes along with it, but it was definitely worn. Take note that this belt never once slipped or squealed so it was never worn out from that, it always functioned optimally. I'll post pictures later this week

[tmontague]

I braved the cold last night when the kids were asleep and took a bunch of measurements between my Yaris and the Wife's Vibe.

The good:
The Vibe radiator will fit! The width will be snug with about an inch or two on either side, but this will also fill in the complete opening very well. The Vibe radiator is 16" in height compared to the 18" between the Yaris' rad supports. This will need to be filled with a large rad support bushing, or some hammering down on that section of the rad support to close off that gap.

The lower and upper hose from the Vibe appear to be an almost perfect fit. The thermostat neck is positioned almost identical from the 2zr and 1zz. The Vibe upper hose also appears to sneak just underneath of my CAI. The only potential issue will be the Yaris battery which may slightly rub on the edge of the hose. Some trimming of the hose at the engine side will likely fix this issue, but I also won't need to worry as I will be relocating my battery soon.

The bad:
The tricky part that will likely not work is the Vibe factory fan shroud. It is a whopping 4-5" thick from the center of the rad to the engine side. The Vibe had much more space in front of the 1zz to the rad support than the Yaris' does. You can see the Yaris fan shroud is a much slimmer 3" thick design whereas the Vibe coolant reservoir is more traditional is thickness.

The tightest spot in my engine bay to the top rad support is the passenger side where the alternator and alternator bracket is. This is the same location where the Vibe coolant reservoir sits.

The solution would be to run a Mishimoto 12" slimline fan that only has a 2.5" thickness. I can mount it right to the radiator as it is designed to be and I can put it on the driver side where there is much more clearance. I can simply wire it up the the factory wires (ground and power) so it works like it was designed to.

I can then buy a generic coolant overflow bottle and mount it on the driver side near the headlight where there is a lot of space. This is simple as I would only need to run a small rubber hose from the bottle to the filler neck on the passenger side along to top of the rad support.

This seems like the best and cheapest option to ensure a properly function system and keep the most clearance as possible to make wrenching in the future as easy and obstruction free as it can be. I don't want to have to pull the fan and rad every time I need to remove the alternator.

I don't need to run a fan shroud as the size of the new rad will be much larger then the 2zr will ever need. The only time the fan shroud is of benefit is while the car is stopped or in traffic. Even after a 45 min track session, my coolant has never had an issue coming down to 212F with the stock set up. My cololant issues were seen during the long track sessions at WOT and high rpm for most of the time. Once I got 15-20 mins into the session the coolant was 230F.

The fan shroud will technically actually reduce air flow through the rad during driving, this is why the Vibe shroud has slits in the shroud beside the fan. I saw that MWR sells a dual core rad for the Vibe for $150 and a Mishimoto fan is around $60. So under $300 Canadian for the set up is reasonable.

This will not be a simple bolt on as I will have to possibly drill new mounting holes in both rad supports (easy) and cut away some metal from the upper support to fit around the filler neck and rad (fairly easy).

For those that have a 2zr but do not track it, a factory Vibe radiator would likely be more than adequate as it is about 20%-25% larger than the 2zr radiator. There isn't really much need for a dual core unless you heavily track your car or are going boosted. As long as your thermostat is working properly there really isn't much down side to a larger radiator other than excess weight which is minimal

[WeeYari]

I know the sedan has way more clearance in the engine bay behind the headlights due to the fact yours don't go 3/4 the way back to the windshield. Not sure if this is the only spot where clearances differ between HB and sedan. Just raising a highlight since most peeps following you drive hatches.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

[06YarisRS]

What year is your Vibe, Trevor?

[tmontague]

I know the sedan has way more clearance in the engine bay behind the headlights due to the fact yours don't go 3/4 the way back to the windshield. Not sure if this is the only spot where clearances differ between HB and sedan. Just raising a highlight since most peeps following you drive hatches.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

good point, I hadn't thought of that. That being said, due to where the rad sits and the hoses run, it shouldn't prove to be an issue unless the rad support is narrower. This could be easily figured out if an LB owner just roughly measures the width of the rad support

What year is your Vibe, Trevor?

it is a 1st gen '05

[tmontague]

This weekend is looking like it will be -20C, yaaaaay:thumbdown:

I will probably just get around to shimming my Throttle pedal and letting it cure all weekend as I don't drive my car much all weekend. I used super glue and a small piece of plastic a couple years ago and it eventually let go. This time I plan on using some JB Weld epoxy which should work very well. The purpose of this is to remove the slack in the throttle pedal that the DBW system has. That "dead zone" essentially does not register with the ecu and does nothing to open the throttle body valve even though the pedal is slightly depressed. This won't help performance at all but it will make it easier to drive around town.

I have attached pics of my old drive belt that I removed from the car when I deleted my a/c. As you can see it is fairly worn in a few areas. If you drive your car at WOT and high rpm's a fair amount then I'd recommend checking the condition of your belt more often. After seeing this, I think I will carry an extra/old belt with me to try track just in case one ever lets go. It's an easy fix if it ever happened and it would be silly to need to pay for a tow just for something so simple.

https://i.imgur.com/LmyM8JL.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/D6VPGCF.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/tCEFlty.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/laIPvnC.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/0zOAkHK.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/3C6BikE.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/e0FhofB.jpg?1

[Maritime]

good idea, cheap insurance. I changed my belt when I got my car it had 200K kms on it and started squealing. I am pretty sure it was the original, and looked a lot worse than that one. I have put another 158K on the car so may be time to grab a replacement just in case and throw it on.

[tmontague]

I installed my new Oil Catch Can last night - bad idea, -30+C with the wind chill...

My old set up of the dual air compressor air/oil separators was effective but it was always a temporary solution until I had the funds to run a properly installed OCC. I received a gift certificate from work for xmas and I was able to apply it to Amazon.ca so I ended up with a proper catch can. Over a month later and here it is from China. I forgot to take a pic of the actual OCC but here is the set up I went with.

This can has two "grills" or perforated plates/baffles that the intake air goes through. It has a dip stick to check the level and it holds much more than my current set up does. In the really cold winter up here I ended of catching a ton of moisture/water in the can and it fills much earlier than it does in the summer. I was emptying my old set up every week or two and it was mostly water. I needed something with a proper reservoir.

I wanted to mount it lower in the engine bay so water wouldn't freeze in the lines, as well as to keep the COG low and keep it out of the way. The set up probably weighs a few pounds at the most, it is a bit heavier than I expected.

To improve the oil catching ability you need to increase the surface area of material in the can so the oil in the air can be condensed on it and pooled into the reservoir. This can actually comes apart as the baffles are two threaded cups. I placed a small amount of stainless steel wool (it gets contaminated with moisture so make sure it is stainless so it doesn't rust) between the two baffled cups which holds it in place in the air intake stream. I then ziptied a piece of a rough 3m scotch brite around the outside of the baffled cup.

The air that enters the can is forced by the design to go into the baffled cup and then out of it and then out the exhaust hose. With my current design the air will contact the first baffle, then the steel wool, then the second baffle and then the scotch brite pad. The oil will then drip into the reservoir before the air exists and enters the intake manifold behind the throttle body (constant vacuum)

On my old set up I used the steel wool in the first can and the scotch bright pad in the second. Most of the oil was caught in the first can and the second one caught mostly water. It appears that oil is easier to catch in the air than water.

To install the can mounting bracket I used two riv nuts from a cheap tool I purchased from Princess Auto. I purposefully bought the metric one as all the bolts on the Yaris are metric. Turns out the 2 mounting bolts that came with the kit fit in the second smallest riv nut size. I drilled two hole on the crash rail mount and filled it with anti seize so it doesn't rust. I then installed the riv nuts and mounted the can to that. It is surprisingly sturdy and i will definitely be using those riv nuts again, they make quick work is you need threads in thin metal or metal you can only access one side of.

My complaint with the OCC is that the mounting bracket has a silly design when the 2 bolts that actually mount to the catch can are on the side instead of the top. This makes getting an allen key onto them almost impossible depending on how you mount it. Most designs have the bolts on top so nothing is in your way. I will take a hammer and flat punch and dent the crash bar a bit so that I can access the one allen bolt. Currently one is tightened all the way and the other is still on the lose side.

I can check the dip stick very easily with where it is mounted and with a simple reach around I can unscrew and drain the reservoir. This wouldn't work well with the stock air box, but with my CAI I have a lot of room in that area. Once the battery is moved, I'll have even more space. This also shouldn't impede my future Vibe radiator install as I can just mount the fan a but more in the middle to easily clear the OCC.

Before I installed the can I put antiseize on all the threads which made a huge difference in how smooth everything threaded on/off. I also added pipe tape to the hose nipples before I tightened them down. They are not a tapered NPT type thread but a regular thread and they are not the tightest.

I'll post back later on how well the can performs, but assuming it will catch oil as well or better than my old set up, I'm impressed with it for the price. IIRC I paid about $42 CAD for it

https://i.imgur.com/tcRnyuE.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/WoudFb5.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/19xkkl9.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/0KefIfH.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/8apz0eT.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/5UqcnjG.jpg?1

[tmontague]

short update on the OCC. 3 days ago I filled the can about 1/4 full of windshield washer fluid so it wouldn't freeze. I checked the dipstick after the car drove 25km today and got close to operating temps (oil temp at 167F) and it showed full alrthough it isn't easy to read.

I remove the can to see how full it was and sure enough it was 95% full. This all within 3 days and probably 75-100km driven! It has been about -18C to -25C ambient temps here for the past 3 days but clearly the new can and the stuff I added to it are extremely effective.

I think I'll be forgoing the windshield washer fluid as I don't want to be wasting that much every week. As long as I check the can every few days and empty it then I shouldn't have to worry about it freezing and blocking the air flow. So far I'm impressed. Most of what was in the can was water but there was also a milky film on it so there was also some oil as well.

[tmontague]

The OCC was a big success, it catches about 3 ounces of oil/water (smells like fuel) per week in the cold. It is much more efficient than the last set up

On another note, I bought some new track semi slicks for the upcoming season. Nankang AR1's, relatively new to NA but common in Europe. I'll do a review on them once I get some time with them. They are an 80tw rating and are a 205 50 size
https://i.imgur.com/Hg9jVC8.jpg?1

All that's left to go for the car prep before the season is to get Vibe/matrix upper and lower radiator hoses so I can install the performance radiator and install new brake lines in all 4 corners.

I'll be running a 5w40 euro spec oil and swapping out my mt-85 redline trans fluid for mt-90 due to the warmer temps coming (hopefully soon)

I'll be doing a thread on the radiator fit when I get around to it for anyone who wants to do the swap in the future

[atomic_hoji]

The OCC was a big success, it catches about 3 ounces of oil/water (smells like fuel) per week in the cold. It is much more efficient than the last set up

On another note, I bought some new track semi slicks for the upcoming season. Nankang AR1's, relatively new to NA but common in Europe. I'll do a review on them once I get some time with them. They are an 80tw rating and are a 205 50 size
...

This! I swear my oil had a weird fuel smell, but the Blackstone Labs analysis didn't show anything notable in the sample - seems like another 'glad I'm not the only one' oddity of the 2ZR. lol

Interested to hear how you find the Nankangs. With the influx of more cheap tires it seems some are junk, and some are actually pretty decent for the price point.

Awesome as always. Looking forward to checking it out sometime this summer.

-- Adam

[tmontague]

My last oil sample I sent in to Blackstone from the summer stink like fuel. Came back negative on fuel content.

I've read that used oil commonly smells like fuel, I definitely wouldn't be worried.

I'm excited to try these tires out, I'm curious how much my confidence goes up with a more controlable and feedback friendly tire

[06YarisRS]

Definitely sounds like I should be considering a catch can myself.
You must be itching to try out those new tires.

[tmontague]

My old flooded lead acid battery from CT went to crap so I decided on a pricier but more reliable and safer (non spillable since it is now in the cabin) AGM battery. This thing is a beats, smaller in diuameter than the group 36 it replaced but has 655 CCA's and 50 Ah (100 reserve). However, in the rush to grab a new battery I didn't really think of the weight. The AGM battery although smaller, is just as heavy as the old one and probably weighs around 35-45lbs!

I ended up ordering an AGM motorcycle battery online which weighs a claimed 11lbs (probably closer to 12). It is rated at 270 CCA and has 18Ah (36 reserve). This cranks the car barely noticeably slower in 0 degree C temps but has no problem The issue with small batteries is their lack of reserve capacity. This can lead to the battery draining down after a couple days, especially in the cold. I installed it fully charged reading just over 13V and after about 24 hours it was at 12.54V which is about 80% charged. It turned over the engine this morning in -10C temps albeit a bit slower than it typically does.

I bought a small trickle charger/maintainer that I will hook up in the winter if I am going to have the car sit longer than 2 nights. I can leave the maintainer in my car and just hook up an extension cord as needed.

These batteries typically die an early life because people drain them and then jump them. Anytime a battery gets fully drained you can say good bye to it's useful life. AGM's can tolerate lower discharge amounts, but they srtill are not immune to this happening. Best practice is to keep a charger on it if it won't be used for a while. These batteries are also sensitive to heat but this won't be a problem as I have mine in my cabin.

All in all I just lost about 25-35lbs out of my car for very little money ($50 USD shipped with taxes) I had to flip the battery tie down bracket so I had usable threads on the rods but it is holding very tightly and won't budge. I never needed any battery post adaptors as I just unbolted my oem post terminals from my ground and pwer wires and bolted those directly to the motorcycle style terminals with a washer. Simple and effective.

https://i.imgur.com/TQvhW4J.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/CzhbAV3.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/GfBOBTL.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/x2gbjU2.jpg?1

up next is my Vibe radiator install...easter long weekend is looking like a decent time to do it

[Leegamer]

It's so cute.

[myfirstyota]

You need a smaller battery box now!

[tmontague]

Swapped out my 0w30 Mobil 1 for some Quaker State full syn 0w20. I will post up any difference I see in oil pressure or temps. Based on 540Rat's testing on his blog I opted for this oil due to its very impressive psi rating. The only other oil better than it was Amsoil and I picked up QSUD for $31 for 5L on sale and my Amsoil price of 0w20 signature is much higher than that.

I also am trying out a larger filter this time around, much higher capacity, brings the 2zr from 4.4 L to some where just shy of 5L so probably an extra 200-400ml capacity. The filter is currently a Fram Ultra Synthetic and is spec'd on many of Toyota's v6 engines as well as a 2002 2zz Celica GTS. The only difference between them is the larger filter specs a slightly lower bypass valve PSI of 12 vs 14PSI for the regular filter. The should be a moot issue for me.

Regular oem direct replacement
https://i.imgur.com/xDO6yRK.jpg?1

larger capacity filter
https://i.imgur.com/NbUDxAt.jpg?1

the larger capacity is larger and barely clears the engine block. It leaves about a 1/4" between the filter housing and block.

***take note - keeping the throttle pedal fully depressed when starting the 2zr does not put it into clear flood mode and cut off fuel. It leads to your bouncing off the rev limited at start up***

learn from my mistake...good thing I fully fill/prime the oil filter during install.

All that is left is to make a new rear brake line due to rust and replace the front rubber lines and bleed the system. Then off to the track!

[ern-diz]

***take note - keeping the throttle pedal fully depressed when starting the 2zr does not put it into clear flood mode and cut off fuel. It leads to your bouncing off the rev limited at start up***

:eek::laugh:

Then off to the track!

:burnrubber:

[tmontague]

https://i.imgur.com/jYqM0Yq.jpg?1

I drained my Redline MT-85 after about 6k km on it throughout the winter. It shifted very well in the deep cold of our winter but I noticed the shifting degraded slightly as the temps stayed above 0*C. I always planned to run MT-90 during the track season due to higher temps.

When I drained the MT-85 I noticed what I thought was an alarming amount of gold specs suspended throughout the trans fluid. No large chunks, all specs and the magnet on my Mishimoto plug was very clean. My guess is the synchros, but I only ever have a 3rd gear synchro issue when I do really quick shifts, or when I'm at the track under hard cornering.

I'll see how the MT-90 fares, but I seriously contemplating trying to find a GL-4 75w90 (or 80w90 at the very least) conventional trans fluid. I'll just change it out more often due to high track temps, but I'm starting to question the MT-90 in out old Yaris manual transmissions. I'm trying to balance good shifting with a clutch type diff all housed in the same box. The MT-90 did a great job for this and is easy for me to find.

I'll post any updates as I figure this out. It's possible that the fluid had nothing to do with this but I'm going to keep an eye on it.

Tomorrow I'm going to plug away at the last thing I need to do which is replace the 4 rubber brake lines. The rears are seized so it looks like I'll be replacing the whole main lines that run to the rear with some NiCop lines I'll be bending myself. That should be a learning curve

[tmontague]

Soft brake lines in the front replaced and hard lines in the rear replaced with NiCopp line. I have rear soft lines but they are seized to the line that travels under the car up to the front of the car. I didn't have time to use some heat and vice grips to try and free it up so I just soaked it in penetrating fluid. My line wrench was starting to slip on the nut and it has a lot of play on it so I just stopped.

Bending my own lines went fairly well but it was a learning experience for sure. NiCopp is crazy easy to use as it is very flexible and I ended up making most of the bends with my hands. I have a line bender but the bends are not a super tight radius like the OE lines are so my hands did a better job. I practised about 10 times making double flares the day before and it went ok. The generic tool is fine for a DIY'er but you have to be super careful that it is on the line perfectly straight or you have to re do it.

NiCopp never rusts like the original OE lines so it give you some piece of mine. Pro tip: remove the OE line from the car and then put it on a bench and bend your new line following the old line. Do not try and use a coat hanger that you bent to try and copy it. This may work for simple bent lines but the rears in the Yaris have so odd shape bends and angles and it definitely did not work nearly as fast as just following the original line.

Pro tip #2: Place plastic wrap or half a ziplock bag under the brake reservoir cap. This blocks off the vent in the cap and creates negative pressure as brake fluid drips out of your open lines. This really slow down the leaking of the line quite a bit. They still drip but much much slower so you are not having to constantly fill up the reservoir to avoid bench bleeding your M/C.

I finally got to use my new Toyota specific properly sealing reservoir cap that attaches to my pressure bleeder. Seals perfectly fine and held 20psi with no leaks. Was able to completely flush my fluid in all 4 brake and my slave cylinder in under 15 mins by myself - seriously this tool in unreal with the proper cap.

One of the original rear lines - it started to rust on the metal that is near the nut as it isn't coated in poly
https://i.imgur.com/TBv5yJQ.jpg?1

Line #1
https://i.imgur.com/afUMZLO.jpg?1

Line #2
https://i.imgur.com/FAAttkl.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/aiBllsD.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/AL25qWR.jpg?2

https://i.imgur.com/sSGSypN.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/zxEQl8O.jpg?1

I also made a proper bracket for all of my power cables that attach to my main power line in the engine bay. Previous to this the fusible link and all the wires were sort of just hovering in space "supported" by the wires themselves. As the temps warmed up the cable became softer and it started drooping. I didn't want the wires to becomes damaged due to bumps and track driving.

The bracket was a simple piece of aluminium and I used a preexisting threaded hole that is on the top of the trans mount meant for the factory battery tray. Because you cannot directly attach the power wires to a piece of metal touching the grounded chassis, I had previously ordered an insulated threaded post from Amazon. I used self tapping screws to mount the insulated post the the bracket and then mounted the whole fusible link to the insulated post. I wanted to keep the main fuses just in case I do an electrical no no and it will save me from a blown ECU and other things. It is good to have that thing still around.

https://i.imgur.com/0LDwGE6.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/zMw8zT8.jpg?1

[tmontague]

Continued on my quest this weekend to have my car fully track ready. Fab'd up a small bracket to fix my now completely unsupported DC Sports CAI. The CAI is meant for a Scion xD and it will work in our Yaris' however it forces the intake filter against the left headlight. This leads to the head light point upwards (can be adjusted so you are not blinding others) as well as puts stress on the rubber mounting bracket that comes with the intake.

My bracket ended up breaking at the rubber damper a few months ago and was only supported by the silicone coupling at the throttle body. This needed to be dealt with properly as the stress and bumps at the track could lead to a vacuum leak.

I took some flat metal stock I previously had lying around from my radiator install and bent a z shaped bracket to replace the broken one. I tapped the bracket on the end closest to the headlight so I didn't have to install as nut as well.

Cheap and dirty but it works very well and the intake now has no movement at all. I also was able to reposition the intake so the filter not is not putting pressure against the headlight housing and they are completely free of one another. I had to run the bumper wiring loom above the intake a opposed to its stock location running below it but this was to avoid contact and potential rubbing away of the insulation on the wiring harness.

https://i.imgur.com/O9QedOG.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/UAID8C1.jpg?1

I will be getting a corner balance and alignment done and then everything is a go!

[06YarisRS]

Haha, very cool and creative. One thing I've noticed is that virtually every adaptation/mod I have done related to my turbo build has been do-able because of the way the Yaris is designed. I always seem to have just enough space (with slight modifications), always have some convenient place to anchor stuff too etc. I can definitely say that I got lucky a few times.

Do you have any concerns about vibrations causing cracking in the plastic headlight body? The headlights do seem quite robust, however. I do like where your filter is placed. I'd have mine there too if it weren't already occupied by the charge piping.

[tmontague]

Haha, very cool and creative. One thing I've noticed is that virtually every adaptation/mod I have done related to my turbo build has been do-able because of the way the Yaris is designed. I always seem to have just enough space (with slight modifications), always have some convenient place to anchor stuff too etc. I can definitely say that I got lucky a few times.

Do you have any concerns about vibrations causing cracking in the plastic headlight body? The headlights do seem quite robust, however. I do like where your filter is placed. I'd have mine there too if it weren't already occupied by the charge piping.

I agree, for such a small engine bay/front end, there is a decent enough amount of room in there. Have you ever seen the engine bay of a Mini S, they give me anxiety just looking at them!

The intake and filter is no longer touching the headlight housing since I installed my bracket. There should be any contact even with bumps so there should be no issue of cracking. The original bracket supplied by DC is rubber dampened but my bracket is not, potentially my bracket could crack but it seems very stable and the intake is not overly heavy so it should be fine

[06YarisRS]

I agree, for such a small engine bay/front end, there is a decent enough amount of room in there. Have you ever seen the engine bay of a Mini S, they give me anxiety just looking at them!

The intake and filter is no longer touching the headlight housing since I installed my bracket. There should be any contact even with bumps so there should be no issue of cracking. The original bracket supplied by DC is rubber dampened but my bracket is not, potentially my bracket could crack but it seems very stable and the intake is not overly heavy so it should be fine

Actually, yes, I did have the chance to peek into the engine bay of a Cooper S. One of my colleagues bought a 2014 recently. Yep, pretty tight in there for sure. My bay, by comparison, looks quite airy. It makes me feel a touch better about engine bay temps. His Cooper is the Countryman AWD, I believe. We went for a little spin and he was kind enough to let me drive. To be honest, I was expecting a bit more uumph. I'm pretty sure my 3.5L powered Sedona minivan would walk all over it. I expect that the regular, lighter Cooper S FWD would be more impressive.

I didn't realize that your mount was not on the headlight housing. Sounds like you've got a great solution there.

[tmontague]

Actually, yes, I did have the chance to peek into the engine bay of a Cooper S. One of my colleagues bought a 2014 recently. Yep, pretty tight in there for sure. My bay, by comparison, looks quite airy. It makes me feel a touch better about engine bay temps. His Cooper is the Countryman AWD, I believe. We went for a little spin and he was kind enough to let me drive. To be honest, I was expecting a bit more uumph. I'm pretty sure my 3.5L powered Sedona minivan would walk all over it. I expect that the regular, lighter Cooper S FWD would be more impressive.

I didn't realize that your mount was not on the headlight housing. Sounds like you've got a great solution there.

The first gen Mini S's used to ride on the bump stops they were so harsh - handles like go carts but tough to daily. The second gen's they smoothed it out quite a bit and made it much more refined. They are definitely a blast to drive but as usual they suffer from carbon build up on the intake valves badly and trying to do anything in that engine bay is a disaster.

The intake mounts to a bolt hole with a bolt that grounds the headlight harness just in front of the headlight. That is where the original DC intake mount bolted to

[06YarisRS]

The first gen Mini S's used to ride on the bump stops they were so harsh - handles like go carts but tough to daily. The second gen's they smoothed it out quite a bit and made it much more refined. They are definitely a blast to drive but as usual they suffer from carbon build up on the intake valves badly and trying to do anything in that engine bay is a disaster.

The intake mounts to a bolt hole with a bolt that grounds the headlight harness just in front of the headlight. That is where the original DC intake mount bolted to

Interesting. Yeah, I can't see the majority of the consumers liking a harsh ride regardless of how well it handled. I guess the manufacturers feel that the public is willing to sacrafice handling for a more tempered ride. I too can say that I appreciate a nice balance between handling and a smooth/comfortable ride.

I'm guessing that they are DI if they are suffering the intake coking. And, yes, they''re pretty cramped in the engine bay from what I've seen.

Sounds like your intake is 'track-ready' now. We plan to be in Toronto again this summer, though haven't set hard dates. Maybe it will correspond with one of your track days. I bet my son would love to see that, haha.

[tmontague]

Interesting. Yeah, I can't see the majority of the consumers liking a harsh ride regardless of how well it handled. I guess the manufacturers feel that the public is willing to sacrafice handling for a more tempered ride. I too can say that I appreciate a nice balance between handling and a smooth/comfortable ride.

I'm guessing that they are DI if they are suffering the intake coking. And, yes, they''re pretty cramped in the engine bay from what I've seen.

Sounds like your intake is 'track-ready' now. We plan to be in Toronto again this summer, though haven't set hard dates. Maybe it will correspond with one of your track days. I bet my son would love to see that, haha.

That would be great to meet up at the track, we should try and coordinate something

Yup, the mini's are DI and have some serious intake valve issues, my in-laws have had a first and second gen mini S so that is why I've been able to drive both.

I agree with you on the handling for a DD, too stiff and it becomes no fun every day. For a track car on the other hand, it will drive pretty rough on public roads if it is set up properly for the track. I am still blown away how stable and flat my car is under severe cornering. It also drives fairly rough and gets taxing being a DDer

[tmontague]

Decided to pull my coil packs today and inspect for oil leakage and everything came up clean. I have about 50,000km on the engine since I installed it and I changed the valve cover gasket before I put it in.

https://i.imgur.com/UM3nI3c.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/Jx286AG.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/6r5ZPfK.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/hdvbIXq.jpg?1

The reason I decided to look into this is that my '05 Vibe developed a consistent misfire in cylinder 3. I figured it was a bad coil but when I went to pull the coil to swap it to another cylinder to see if the misfire moved, I realized the spark plug hole of cylinder 3 was full of oil almost above the spark plug! The other spark plug holes has oil in them but not nearly as bad. I had replaced the valve cover gasket when we bought the car used and it only has about 55,000km on the gasket. It was a brand name gasket not some ebay cheapie.

I put in a new valve cover gasket and replace the plugs as they were badly fouled with white crud. I fired up the engine and it was misfiring this time in cylinder 1. I replace the coil and it now runs fine. I am blown away that a quality valve cover gasket went bad at only 55,000km. I'm not sure if it is a coincidence and the coil went bad around the same time the valve cover gasket went or if the bad gasket led to the coil going bad.

Either way I would check your spark plug hole periodically, luckily this happened one week before heading on a long family trip to the cottage and I was able to diagnose and fix it before. The 2zr has a different design of gasket around the spark plug hole and it should last longer but the 1nz has the same design as the 1zz engine in my Vibe. The gaskwet typically fails externally which shows up as an oil staining the top of the head, but it can fail internally and be fine externally, this may save you a bad day.

[06YarisRS]

Great tip! You're learning so much about these engines/drivetrains etc that you should publish your own "How To" maintenance/repair manual.

[tmontague]

Great tip! You're learning so much about these engines/drivetrains etc that you should publish your own "How To" maintenance/repair manual.

Lol ya no kidding! I just try to post up as much info as I can so others can learn from my experiences. Always learning new things on these cars

[tmontague]

I have booked a corner balance and alignment for the first week in June. I won't be heading to the track until then as I want everything well balanced for I start pushing the car. I am planning on going with 1/8th" total toe out in the rear and the front. This allows the car to have some sharp turn in in the front but yet the rear will still kick out a bit which aids in cornering.

Something I've always been amazed by is when you are watching pro drivers in a chicane and they aren't even steering the car as the rear end comes around just enough to point the car where it needs to go. This alignment will help with that with the negative being the wear on the inside of the tires. This is how I had my car set up last season and the turn in was spot on and I was able to control the rear end with changing the dampening on my coilovers. I ruined the alignment slightly when I had to replace worn ball joints so it needs to be re done. I have also removed a handful of weight form the car so a corner balance is in order.

I am curious as to how much my car weighs now, I'd be surprised if it wasn't around 100lbs lighter. I'll post the results here once I get it done.

I also want to build a radiator duct shroud before my first track day as the air can go underneath the car as it sits right now once it enters the lower grill. I plan to riv nut it into place on the lower rad support so it can be removed when needed

[tmontague]

I have my first track day of the season this Friday evening so I spent way too much time last night and early morning driveway fabrication aluminum sheet metal into a proper duct for my lower grill.

A few months ago I got tires of having to remove zip ties and re ziptie the lower bumper tray back to my bumper every time I wanted to remove the bumper. To get around this, I ziptied the tray to the lower rad support. This way to bumper comes on and off very easy.

I was left with an air gap where air can enter my lower grill anbd slip underneath the radiator and under the car. This isn't ideal from a cooling point of view which I really wasn't too worried about as my cooling capacity is now enormous for my engine set up with my Vibe radiator. I was more concerned with creating front end lift on high speed corner due to the air flow.

This ducting now forces the air from the lower grill right into the radiator with no other place it can go. I wrapped the sharp edges in foam insulation tape and used some thicker foam tape in any holes I had so there are now minimal air gaps.

I likely can now block off my whole upper grill to improve aerodynamics as I doubt I need it, but I plan to leave it for now and see how everything works. I will eventually do aero work on my car once it can sit in a garage a a dedicated track car.

I did not do any ducting to the top portion of the rad I only did the bottom and the sides. There is an OEM black plastic piece on the top of the rad that does some ducting to a certain degree and for now I'll leave that as is. Everything fits very well with the front bumper installed and is very secure thanks to a liberal use of riv nuts.

https://i.imgur.com/CIvQicF.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/UtOQjFy.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/tXaU0Nc.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/OTAp8uV.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/t7NTmub.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/NtqFLn8.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/WfTWl0b.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/Q8WyfE3.jpg?1

[tmontague]

https://i.imgur.com/8wOS25g.jpg?1

Here is my updated alignment, slight toe out in front and slight toe in in the rear.

the car is down about 150 lbs (+/- 10lbs in fuel) from last year with everything I have removed. I unfortunately forgot to take a picture of the corner balance scales but I am very impressed with the weight loss of the car. This should make for an even more fun chassis in the corners.

[ern-diz]

Looking forward to your thoughts after the next track session.

[tmontague]

Looking forward to your thoughts after the next track session.

for sure, I'm looking forward to seeing the differences compared to last year

[tmontague]

I spent some time yesterday trying to improve airflow in the front wheel wells. I added some venting to get fresh air into the wheel well to aid in brake cooling as well as venting the wheel well via the front quarter panel.

To vent the front quarter panel I had to remove the panel and cut out some supporting metal which was right in the way of blocking the air flow. i then reinstalled the panel minus the one mounting tab that i had removed and then used a pry bar wrapped in a thick towel to manually bend it out.

The end result is a functional gap that allows the high pressure air in the wheel well to escape beside the front door.

https://i.imgur.com/v7bvB3p.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/mHKMibw.jpg?1

I also cut air flow hole in the front fender cover as well as in my fog light shroud. This isn't going to be as effective as actual ducting, but it is much easier to do without having to route tubes in the area. The Yaris is a light car and not overly hard on brakes so this should at least allow fresh cooler air to be introduced into that area. I had previously pried back the dust shield so that it can force air to the rotor instead of block it and the new air holes should compliment this nicely.

https://i.imgur.com/D4p0NCU.jpg?1

[CrankyOldMan]

Sweet! I've seen the same fender trick done on an SW11 MR2.

[tmontague]

Well, the first track day of the year went off very well on Friday night. Met up with Ron and a couple other guys/gals from the WannaBspecs and we all had fun times lapping and chatting. It's always a fun time when you can meet up with friends vs flying solo.

I learned a ton of info on how successful my winter modifications were and how important confidence inspiring tires are. Long story short, I beat my fastest lap time from last year by over 3.5 seconds...and there is at least a second more to be had just in braking zones. My current fastest lap is a 1:26:48 and I was consistently turning out laps of 1:27. This makes driving on the track much more enjoyable as I am now the one putting pressure on other fast cars and getting the point by, vs having to always point others by.

The Nankang AR1's are very good tires. They give an audible feedback when pushed to the limit and they breakaway in a very controllable manner. This encourages you to drive past the tires limit and use driver skill to control the slide. This is much faster and allows you to learn how to drive with some slip angle. My confidence has gone up tremendously with these tires over the corded BFG R1's as I now can drive 10/10ths and push past the limit of the tires and not deal with snap oversteer.

I also noticed that the AR1's really shine in braking zones. I find myself realising that I have braked and scrubbed off too much speed before some corners. If you do go into a corner with too much speed these tires are still controllable in a well balanced car. My car now had a tendency to understeer and I'll have to play around with a higher dampening in the rear than what I ran with the R1's. I didn't adjust dampening this track day as it was only the first outing, but once it is adjusted to increase oversteer, my lap times should greatly improve. I prefer a slight tail happy car, and although it isn't plowing right now, it isn't as tail happy as I would like. I find it difficult in the twistys to get the rear end to kick out with lifting off the throttle so I don't have to steer to get me pointed to where I want.

Pic of the brand new tires after 133km of hard flogging of the car - it took it like a champ
The most worn tire (front left - TMP is notoriously hard on FL tires)
https://i.imgur.com/EsYp8YU.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/Z5bab2i.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/KzBzTQz.jpg?1

I think I have hit the limit of the Carbotech XP10's. They have only about 20% left in them and 3 of the 4 pads are past the rivets (this is fine as the rivets are made with a soft metal so they don't eat away at the rotor for this reason) I never experienced brake fade at all but they xp10's seemed to have lost their hard initial bite that I'm accustomed to. Also there very fast wear rate would explain this as well.

I have contacted a company called G-loc brakes which is a spin off of Carbotech and they have similar compound formulation as Carbotech with a slightly cheaper price and some good reviews on longevity with some Unlimited Time Attack FWD guys. I'm waiting for their recommendation on pad compound and then I'll pull the trigger. I don't think my pads will last another full track day so I'll probably have to keep them as emergency back ups.

most worn pad
https://i.imgur.com/8Kbwgle.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/gq6OLcP.jpg?1

I have found that both front calipers have multiple tears in the rubber dust boot which looks to be caused from the heat or just the fact that they are over 10 years old. I'll use them for the rest of the season but plan to rebuild them this year with a rebuild kit off of RockAuto. They are not leaking at all, just the dust boot is torn.

Here is some really valuable info that I have been excited to find out - Oil and coolant temp/pressure info. So, recall that last year with ~ 25-28C ambient temps my coolant would peak at 238F and typically would sit at 228-235F about 8 mins into a session.

Oil temps would start to follow and would peak at 290F and typically sit around 285F as long as I was redlining the engine and going WOT (so for most of the session). This was on 5w30 Pennzoil UP oil.

On Friday the ambient temps were 24C (slightly lower than last summer) and I am now running Quaker State UD 0w20 and I now have a larger frontal area and dual core radiator, no a/c condenser in front of the rad and radiator ducting from the whole lower grill mouth. Here is my peak and average temps and pressure readings from the full Friday session:

Oil temp Peak: 252F AVG: 242F
Oil Pressure at idle right when I pulled in the paddock: 8-9 psi
Coolant temp peak: 191F AVG 188F

It is logical that oil and coolant temp influence each other and that lowering coolant will bring oil temps down to a certain degree. Also 0w20 oil will run cooler than a 5w30 as tests have shown in the gt-86 community. But damn am I ever impressed with my driveway fabricated/hacked radiator install and ducting. I now have lower on track coolant temps with my current set up than I ever did in bumper to bumper traffic with the OE radiator! I also found out my Mishimoto fan works excellently and fairly quietly as it kicked on when coolant peaked at 204F only in the paddock once my car was sitting. It would run for 30 seconds to a minute and then kick off.

The coolest part of the evening was having boosted >$100 grand BMW's from the wealthy foreign students flying off the track in clouds of dust trying to stick on my tail through the higher speed turns (money doesn't buy driver skill). I also had a few go off in front of me as they refused to give me a point by so I rode their ass throughout the twisty part of the track and they would over drive and go off in turns. They later that night a handful of them coming up to my car asking what crazy set up I had under the hood. To their dismay it is a stock Corolla engine with stock tune with approx 132whp...

I had another group comment on how cool it was that a Yaris was so fast and how it sounded like there was an insane engine under the hood (currently running 1 cat and resonator only). These same people were mentioning how their STI and Cobalt SS could only do 3 laps and then their (boosted) engines would heat soak and pull timing and their brakes would fade. Not the Yaris, lap after lap it just kept getting faster and faster, no timing pulled, no heat soak, no engine issues or temp problems, just absolutely perfect. One of the many reasons all engine builds are ideal for the track.

The only odd thing I noticed was that during high rpm, WOT if I looked at the oil temp, it would fluctuate between the highest temp (244F) and down as low as 186F quickly. Almost as if the oil was being pumped so fast it was either missing oil and reading air, or the oil was actually cooler in certain parts it was picking up due to very high oil flow...I'm stumped on this one. As soon as the rpm dropped the temp read consistent around 244F.

My front left tire which is the most stressed lost a huge amount of air on one session. It seemed like it wasn't leaking but may have burped some on turn 1. I refilled it a bit higher and after a couple more sessions, it did lose a bit more but never that large amount. I checked it when I got home and using the soapy water test, it came up negative for leaks. I'll check it over the next few days and see how it hold air. I may just have to run that tire at a much higher psi so the sidewall is stiffer.

All in all a great session and it really highlighted the potential this car has. I am very impressed with how well my cooling mods did and how effective they were. It was also nice to see science and empirical data win out in the real world over age old tradition in regards to oil viscocities. After the temps and pressures seen this session, I'm doubtful I will ever have a situation where 5w30 is needed.

[heeroyuy01195]

Sounds like you had a blast, lots of good info here!

That does wound a bit odd with the oil temps. Not sure if this applies to the 2zr but I know with the 4ages we have oil starvation problems when it's being pushed hard and/or during repeated hard cornering. We combat this with running a baffle in the oil pan or if you're truly dedicated, going with a dry sump setup. It's been a little while since I've worked on my MR2 or done much reading on the 4age so take that with a grain of salt. Anywho, perhaps it's similar with the 2zr?

[tmontague]

Sounds like you had a blast, lots of good info here!

That does wound a bit odd with the oil temps. Not sure if this applies to the 2zr but I know with the 4ages we have oil starvation problems when it's being pushed hard and/or during repeated hard cornering. We combat this with running a baffle in the oil pan or if you're truly dedicated, going with a dry sump setup. It's been a little while since I've worked on my MR2 or done much reading on the 4age so take that with a grain of salt. Anywho, perhaps it's similar with the 2zr?

This is what I originally thought, dreaded oil starvation. However, this was only noticed on the front straightaway (mind you I wasn't able to monitor my gauges in the corners). At this same time my oil pressure was always consistent and fine, something I would have expected to drop if it was oil starvation.

At this point I don't know what it is from, I'm thinking something to do with the oil pressure bypass as it dumps excess oil back into the pan? My engine has no new noises or weird hiccups so I can't imagine oil starvation has been a problem for me yet.

As a side note - I looked back into my thread and realized that the xp10's only lasted me 3 track day or ~350-370km's. Of which the first track day was my first time on a track pad so I wasn't pushing them nearly as hard as I did this last session. Definitely going with G-Loc pads next and a much stronger compound, hopefully they will last longer

[ern-diz]

...lots of good info here!

+1

[tmontague]

After reviewing the track day in my head I have come to some conclusions on what I can improve on. First and foremost, I need a higher heat track pad - so far it seems I will be going with G-Loc's R16 compounds which can take up to 2000F and has a slightly higher coefficient of friction than my xp10's from Carbotech.

I have no doubt that I can get well into the 1:25's with a little bit or time on my current set up. Things that I noticed at the last track day:

1. I was braking too early for my new tires and brake set up. I found myself going into the corners hard, but I was throttling through the corner almost right after entering it. This means I could have braked later and carried more speed into the corner.

2. I wasn't able to adequately trail brake to swing my rear end around and I was more or less controlling the under steer throughout the corners. This is partly due to issue #1. I braked too early which scrubbed off too much speed so I didn't have enough momentum going into the corner to scrub off with trail braking.

3. There are a few faster paced dogleg corners that I know the car is capable of going through while staying on full throttle. As of now I am backing off and only giving part throttle. This is causing me to not have enough momentum to trail brake into turn 11 (the last turn before the final straight away)

With my old tire set up the snap over steer was so quick and without warning that I would have to be cautious of it and back on going late into corners. With my set up this year, I can brake late into corners with some solid trail braking as my oversteer is much more controlled. My front tires (especially the FL) were worn down quite a bit and took a beating. They took it like a champ but compared to the rear they work over time. This is partly due to my car being FWD, the track and me not trail braking enough. With my more or less controlling under steer most laps instead of over steer, the front tires got more cooked.

I also had some constant air loss in my FL tire but yet I have no air leaks. It was due to the tire burping air during hard cornering. I will have to air it up a bit more next time out but I also need to work the rear tires more so the front are worked less - oversteer will achieve this.

Next session out will be focusing on braking later and trail braking to see how late I can go and how well the rear end kicks out. I've contemplated doing some driver education classes at the track as they would really help a more experienced driver pin point what I can do in the car to make my times faster. The thing is that they cost around $400-$500 for the day which at this point in time is money I don't have if I want to be able to afford wear items and keep my car track ready. I do think the HPDE events are a great idea but I am still getting faster and faster every time out at the track and I am always reading as much as I can and talking to more experienced drivers. So for now I'll have to forgo the HPDE courses until I start to plateau or have some more cash.

[06YarisRS]

Sounds like you are figuring out how to squeeze every ounce of performance out of the Yaris sedan. It's really great to hear how capable our little bugs are, especially when compared to more expensive sport-type cars. Great wotk there Mr. Montague. :thumbsup: Excellent research put into practice. Kudos!

[tmontague]

Sounds like you are figuring out how to squeeze every ounce of performance out of the Yaris sedan. It's really great to hear how capable our little bugs are, especially when compared to more expensive sport-type cars. Great wotk there Mr. Montague. :thumbsup: Excellent research put into practice. Kudos!

thank you. Unfortunately I will have to sit out the rest of June in terms of going to the track. I'm off work studying for the last of my board exams and we are planning to sell our house in September so money isn't free flowing right now. I also have burned through almost all of the pad life on my xp10's and track pads are not cheap at over $300 for the next set. I wasn't expecting to have to buy new brake pads so soon - I guess that is the reality of driving on the track, especially now that the car is becoming proper fast.

[06YarisRS]

Revisiting the EBay gauge pod. I know, Trevor, that it didn't work for your sedan despite the listing saying that it would fit. I took many pics of the A-pillar cover in my '08 and '06 and this aftermarket A-piller looks very similar at every point. In my pic below, you can see that the Sedan has a very different A-Piller design than the hatch. Even though it looks as though they have tried to recreate the actual pillar, I would expect some fit and finish issues as well as having to figure out a way to attach the pod. Also, it's much shinier than my OEM pillar. I could adjust for that with a satin of flat clearcoat. I'm thinking I might order this pod, keeping in mind that some adjustments may have to be made. I'm not finding other locations in the car to mount gauges that are appealing to me. I could drill my driver's side upper glove box, but not really into that.

https://i.imgur.com/e9P9pAu.jpg

[tmontague]

hmm, I think you're on to something, I didn't realize the sedan has a different A pillar. It may turn out that it only fits LB's and not the sedan, either way I made it work and it has been find for me since the install.

[06YarisRS]

hmm, I think you're on to something, I didn't realize the sedan has a different A pillar. It may turn out that it only fits LB's and not the sedan, either way I made it work and it has been find for me since the install.

Haha, I hope it fits and looks ok as I just ordered it.

[CrankyOldMan]

I'm not finding other locations in the car to mount gauges that are appealing to me.

During my supercharger build I played with a 2D laser cutter and mocked up a plastic gauge panel for the upper glovebox. It was just big enough for a ScanGauge II and two 55mm dials, but I never completed it. It's less than ideal on the track since you'd have to look that far down to see anything but it could be ok for less immediate information. There's a thread around here somewhere with my template...

[06YarisRS]

During my supercharger build I played with a 2D laser cutter and mocked up a plastic gauge panel for the upper glovebox. It was just big enough for a ScanGauge II and two 55mm dials, but I never completed it. It's less than ideal on the track since you'd have to look that far down to see anything but it could be ok for less immediate information. There's a thread around here somewhere with my template...

Sounds interesting. I'll definitely have a look around for that thread. Thanks.

[CrankyOldMan]

Sounds interesting. I'll definitely have a look around for that thread. Thanks.

Found it (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49468). Looks like I never posted the schematics. I'll take a look in my archives tonight-ish.

[tmontague]

I've been a little MIA the past few weeks, life is very busy right now between
studying for my last two board exams, getting the house prepped to list it in early Sept, spending time with kids, wife's promotion (more work) I haven't had much time for anything else. I haven't been able to get back on the track unfortunately mainly because I need some new brake pads as mine have a questionable amount of life left in them and I don't want to wast cash on a track to only get a session or two in.

The pads I want to run will cost around $400CAD and I wasn't expecting nor do I have that kind of cash at the moment. This year was always going to be a bit iffy in terms of how much I could get out to the track as I knew I'd be focusing on my exams and selling a house but it has been a bit of a drag, especially after my new PB I set last time out on a new set up.

That said, I do have good news in regards to my track car...it can now be fully stripped and properly made light as I have always wanted it to be because...

My family and I are now owner of a new (used) 2010 Subaru Outback 3.6R limited :thumbsup:

We opted to buy a new family hauler so that I can now use my Wife's Vibe as my daily and she can drive the Outback. The Yaris was getting to be pretty rough hauling kids around when picking them up from daycare. No a/c (it's hot here now), bumpy, no storage and no insulation. I can't even talk to someone on the phone it is so loud - that was getting frustrating having to yell at people to tell them I'll call them back!

The car was sold as is with 253k km on it and needs some work which is why I was able to buy it very cheap at $3200 with winter tires - it's the limited trim with navigation which was the absolute top trim the Outback came in back in 2010. Side mirror is broken and hanging off, front windshield is cracked, passenger seat electric controls are not working, headlights foggy, one taillight is foggy from interior damage, coolant was 700ml low, engine has a ton of oil leaks/weeps but doesn't really drip on the ground, potential drivers side head gasket issues (although 200km so far and it is proving to be sound).

I purposefully bought the H6 as the real world fuel economy numbers are barely worse than the H4's and we often do trips fully loaded up to the cottage. Passing people at 80km/h on single lane rural roads was near impossible in the Vibe. They will be a breeze now. I can also now purchase a tow dolly (the Outback can tow 2700lbs legally in NA, but upwards of 3000 in Europe with the same chassis) and tow my Yaris to the track. This saves me from having to insure 3 cars - I will have to keep the Yaris plated and insured as technically 2 wheels are on the road, but I believe the insurance is much different and should cost much less as I'm not actually driving it on the road.

My Yaris should be down around 2000 lbs by the time I tow it, if not less, and the tow dolly doesn't weigh much at all.

With my family's budget, the only way to get into a large sized vehicle with luxuries like heated seat, climate control was to buy one that most people didn't want and had issues. I bought it expecting it to need a head gasket and purposefully had a number I was not going to go over. I wasn't sure it needed head gaskets, but I assumed it did. The rest of the chassis checked out surprisingly well, all axles and boots are in sound shape, suspension is all tight and there are no clunks. The rust is minimal for a 9 year old car that wasn't oil sprayed (I will be doing that soon) and the shocks/struts although old, are not rusted and are still fine.

I'm spending the next little while slowly fixing things that cause oil leaks and draining and replacing all the fluids so I have a good starting point of the cars maintenance. Subies leak, that's a fact but simple things like oil cooler o-rings are easy and cheap to replace and when they leak, they can look catastrophic.

The block needs to be soaked in degreaser and sprayed off so I can narrow down the source of the leaks. At this point the oil is actually right beside the filler neck so the leak could have been spilled oil that was never cleaned up.

Anyways, thought I'd update, hoping to get out on the track later this year, but I have lots of time to become fast. That Yaris isn't going anywhere

[06YarisRS]

Congrats on the new to you family hauler. It sounds nice. Planning to post pics?

[ern-diz]

Congrats on the new to you family hauler. It sounds nice. Planning to post pics?

+1 on both counts

[suprf1y]

You're going to put your wife in a 10 year old Subaru?

You're brave man

[tmontague]

I'll post pics once I finish the safety and do a paint correction. The car was a severely neglected family hauler and the paint is a mess. Just finished cutting and polishing the headlights and covering them in 2 coats of ceramic.

I have 350km on it now and amazingly it gets the same fuel mileage as my '05 awd Vibe, except it has way more balls, seriously this 3.6 boxer engine hauls.

I get why Subaru has the reputation it has, they leak (often due to simple cheap fixes like o rings) and they have chronic head gasket issues. However, outside of that they are sound Japanese cars on par with Toyota. The electronics last the life of the car like Toyota's and their engine internals can easily go to 400k km like Toyota's.

The benefit here is they can be found used for much cheaper because of these known issues. Fix the HG or other issue and you have yourself a very reliable and more capable hauler.

The last two if my wife's family haulers were all 12 year old Toyotas that needed work. I put the time in and they all turned out super reliable, and everyone in my family can't believe the mileage and reliability we end up getting out of rock bottom prices used cars.

I have had a p0420 (cat inefficiency) code pop up (very common occasional code on Subies, and earlier on a trans code. All cleared and running fine with no hiccups, fuel trims are spot on from both banks.

I purchased this car thinking it may have a HG leak, and priced it accordingly. After 350km I am confident it does not (they are not as common on the h6's). Coolant has not dropped and coolant temps have been spot on.

This week I'll be changing some o rings and cleaning tje engine block as well as replacing all the fluids...every single one - don't think they've ever been done

[tmontague]

So the Yaris is now stripped down to nothing in the interior except a drivers seat and it is down another 100 or so lbs due to this. I currently have it taken off insurance and being stored at my in laws warehouse until me move in the winter and I can have in my garage/driveway again.

I am hoping to get it out on track one day in September and burn out what us left in my track pads and hopefully get it in the 1:24's. I would ideally like to strip the dash, HVAC and all of the no longer needed interior wiring and lose another 50 or so lbs.

Over the winter the plan will be to get rid of the side and rear windows and convert it to lexan. I will also be pulling to window motors and interior door skins to shed some more weight. The car should be sub 2k lbs by that point.

i have spent most of my "car time" lately getting my new Subie up to my family hauler standards which means, all new fluids, zero clunks, zero dashboard lights and minimal to no leaks. I also had to cut and ceramic coat the paint as it was a very neglected car

https://i.imgur.com/Mc0NHeR.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/lmtEpsF.jpg?1

I can say that it is now complete (save for a valve cover gasket) and it is quite the road trip car. It handles infinitely better than our Vibe at the limit and it surprisingly plush over bumps. The fuel economy is similar to the Vibe but it has a much better awd system (tested on out steep gravel cottage driveway) and it has loads more power. I am very happy with another successful used car purchase and a happy new Subie owner. They really do handle really well for the type of car they are compared to others in its class. This is also one of the softest handling generations of the Outback and I still feel it handles well.

I have had to seasoned mechanics look over the undercarriage of the car (i originally did this as well before I purchased it) and both have said that it checks out great and is in great condition. Also the rear end alignment was all within factory spec which is great as nothing has been damaged or bent. It is always good to hear actual mechanics confirms your findings seeing as I am a simple driveway wrench and not a professional by any means.

Here is a short list of things that were wrong with the car but are now all fixed:
-P0420 code (catylitic converter sub optimal efficiency)
-C0071 steering angle sensor code (effectively disabling the stability control and lighting up the dashboard)
-cracked windshield
-broken passenger side mirror
-passenger seat electric adjustments not working
-broken front control arm bushings
-leaking oil cooler o-ring
-intermittent horn engagement (this was a fun one!)
-very badly scratched paint
-bad passenger front brake shudder
-bad smell in cabin
-severely delayed throttle response
-a/c not blowing as cool as it should

I am thinking I will write a thread up some day of how I go about purchasing used vehicles and what I look for as well as how I determine the price I'm willing to pay to have a relatively inexpensive but safe car. Let me know if anyone would be interested in reading something like that in the near future. It may help other mechanically inclined people who don't have a large budget but want a nice vehicle.

For next season I plan to use the Subie to tow my Yaris to and from the track, it should make for a much faster track car when all of the niceties are stripped out of it

[ern-diz]

Lovely! Looking even more forward to that burn-off-the-last-of-the-track-pads update.

[tmontague]

After my decision to buy a new family hauler I was stuck with storing my Yaris at the back of my in laws business. It is only 20 mins away but with prepping the house for selling (gets listed this week), fixing up the Subie, spending time with the family and studying for board exams - I didn't really have much time to go work on it.

Plus I don't have the cash right now to drop on new brake pads so that made track days out of the question for the season. Over the past week my (almost) 3 year old son and I have been going to work on the "race car" and trying to lighten it up, he absolutely loves wrenching with me. I recently stripped out the dash and the HVAC which all in all was surprisingly heavy. I had fully gutted the interior before I drove it to storage so the pics you see below is in its current state.

https://i.imgur.com/LWqekhq.jpg?1

I have to now find the proper heater hose size and buy a length of hose to loop from the two connections on the block so the heater core by pass is fully finished.

The next time I go out to work on the car I will be separating and removing any excess electrical wiring and connectors such as the airbag system and HVAC wiring. There is a huge amount of wiring under the dash and most of it is now moot. Once our family moves into a new house I will be bringing the Yaris with me to store it in a garage. Over the winter I plan on replacing all the side and rear glass with lexan to further strip some more weight off of it.

The end goal is a sub 2000lbs yaris. Keep in mind with the removal of the window glass comes the removal of all the heavy motors as well.

I plan on heading out to the track on the last Friday of September as long as the weather holds up. I'll be driving the car out there and aiming for a sub 1:25. I just hope what little I have left on the brakes will hold up.

*I forgot to mention my plan for future windshield defogging if needed. Bimmerworld sells a $100 kit that is clear defroster wires that I can wire up right off of the battery with a switch that works similar to your rear defroster wires. This IMO is a perfect solution as it is light weight and would be very effective. I likely won't need this until I start doing time attack in rain or shine in the future as I am mostly only tracking in warm temps without rain currently. It didn't make sense to keep all of the HVAC just for defogging purposes.

https://i.imgur.com/6yuR5DQ.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/PwTt2Aa.jpg?1

[CrankyOldMan]

So the Yaris is now stripped down to nothing in the interior except a drivers seat and it is down another 100 or so lbs due to this.
...
I would ideally like to strip the dash, HVAC and all of the no longer needed interior wiring and lose another 50 or so lbs.
...
Over the winter the plan will be to get rid of the side and rear windows and convert it to lexan. I will also be pulling to window motors and interior door skins to shed some more weight. The car should be sub 2k lbs by that point.
That's where the 2ZR Vios is right now, minus the rear window, plus the passenger OEM seat. Sub-2000 lbs is crazy quick off the line!

I'm still reading the rules for the SCCA class I want to run in (eventually) and some of the excessive weight shedding already done to mine may be outside of what's allowed. If you're interested in swapping doors and saving yourself the labor I think I can schedule a road trip.

*EDIT - that's a cool idea for the windshield. I was going to try and reinstall the OEM fan and heater core on mine.

[Leegamer]

At this point you may as well just make your own harness.

That bimmerworld defroster is a game changer. I think I will use that in my Z31, so thanks!

[CrankyOldMan]

The next time I go out to work on the car I will be separating and removing any excess electrical wiring and connectors such as the airbag system and HVAC wiring. There is a huge amount of wiring under the dash and most of it is now moot.

I'm going to look into the dash wires on mine this winter as well. Maybe we can do up a spreadsheet? The SRS/Airbag stuff is all gone already but I'll inventory all the remaining wires and see what can be removed. I'm also considering removing the key switch and steering wheel lock since it's not going to go on the road ever again. Headlights can go too, I think, but they're already pretty light. Not much weight savings compared to steel and glass on some older cars.

[CrankyOldMan]

At this point you may as well just make your own harness.

That bimmerworld defroster is a game changer. I think I will use that in my Z31, so thanks!

ArmstrongRacing was looking into making a custom harness for his but didn't get it off the ground. I've got access to a lot of OEM crimp tools at work and can probably make something very professional looking for significantly less cost than even the tools.

The one on Bimmerworld comes directly from FrostFighter (https://www.frostfighter.com/thermasync-defroster-controls.htm).

[tmontague]

That's where the 2ZR Vios is right now, minus the rear window, plus the passenger OEM seat. Sub-2000 lbs is crazy quick off the line!

I'm still reading the rules for the SCCA class I want to run in (eventually) and some of the excessive weight shedding already done to mine may be outside of what's allowed. If you're interested in swapping doors and saving yourself the labour I think I can schedule a road trip.

When I went to the track for the first time this year after removing 150lbs out of my car I couldn't believe how noticeable the difference was. Not so much in straight line acceleration (although I'm sure that was improved too) but more so in the tight technical twisty back to back turns. The car seemed more "flickable" as if you could just rotate it and point it to where you wanted it to go. The chassis has much less weight and dive into corners so it was much happier to abruptly change direction and go where you wanted it to. The understeer also didn't feel as heavy if that makes sense.

*EDIT - that's a cool idea for the windshield. I was going to try and reinstall the OEM fan and heater core on mine.

Hmm, that might actually be a really god idea seeing as lexan isn't exactly cheap. I don't particularly want different coloured doors but at this point i'm not too concerned about looks. Mine still have all of the electrical hooked up, just no interior door cards.

IMO it is the best solution for windshield for a dedicated track rat. I contemplated keeping the OEM heater box for the defrost option, but it weighed way too much to keep around for a couple times of use. The heater wires from BW are extremely light and very effective. These are the ones I plan on using when need be https://www.bimmerworld.com/Safety-Race-Interior/Battery-Electrical/BimmerWorld-Front-Windshield-Defroster-Kit.html

At this point you may as well just make your own harness.

That bimmerworld defroster is a game changer. I think I will use that in my Z31, so thanks!

Agreed, I was extremely happy to stumble across them online. Before finding this I never saw a good solution that actually seemed effective other than the heavy and bulky OEM defroster

I am probably at that point with the harness but this is new territory for me so my plan is to slowly separate the harness and remove what isn't needed. I eventually plan to go with a standalone ECU but I still need the OEM ECU and wiring for the throttle control, ABS, tach and spedometer so I don't want to mess any of that up.

Most of the wiring in the above pictures is likely now obsolete and I'm sure a lot of it will be gone once I clear through it all.

I'm going to look into the dash wires on mine this winter as well. Maybe we can do up a spreadsheet? The SRS/Airbag stuff is all gone already but I'll inventory all the remaining wires and see what can be removed. I'm also considering removing the key switch and steering wheel lock since it's not going to go on the road ever again. Headlights can go too, I think, but they're already pretty light. Not much weight savings compared to steel and glass on some older cars.

agreed, I'm going to leave my lights in for now. I though about the steering lock and key switch but since I plan to tow dolly my car I think the steering lock with prove useful for the time being.

[CrankyOldMan]

Hmm, that might actually be a really god idea seeing as lexan isn't exactly cheap. I don't particularly want different coloured doors but at this point i'm not too concerned about looks. Mine still have all of the electrical hooked up, just no interior door cards.

...

agreed, I'm going to leave my lights in for now. I though about the steering lock and key switch but since I plan to tow dolly my car I think the steering lock with prove useful for the time being.

Is yours black sand pearl? I found some doors in decent shape at a local yard but they're blue. The paint on the roof and trunk are in desperate need of repair anyway so it's going to get repainted at some point. My passenger rear door is dented as well.

Good point about the tow dolly. I intend to trailer mine and save the tires. =)

[tmontague]

no my paint color is flint mica paint code 1E0

[CrankyOldMan]

no my paint color is flint mica paint code 1E0

Aah, yeah, that would look a little odd.

[tmontague]

I've been spending some time each weekday evening an hour here or there with my son slowly stripping the car down to only the necessities.

https://i.imgur.com/81Efc23.jpg?1

Part of that was the removal of the heater core which leaves me with 2 open coolant hoses at the firewall. Easiest way to solve this is to just buy a 5/8" hose connection and fit them together. Well I did that, and it leaked, non stop drip as soon as the coolant built up pressure. I bought a Dorman 90 degree plastic 5/8-5/8" barbed elbow and even with the oem clamps put on the fittings it still leaked.

That is silicone (dielectric) grease on the fitting to make install and future removal easier, turns out they slide on easy...too easy
https://i.imgur.com/hxSqlLd.jpg?1

After looking at the original 11 year old heater hoses it was clear why they leaked. They had stretched much larger then their original diameter

https://i.imgur.com/tRV86Ms.jpg?1

I never liked the idea of an extra joint in the heater hose as this car sees high temps on the track and the less joints I can have the less likely leaks will happen. I ended up purchasing some 5/8" heater hose from my local CT as well as 3 EZ coils. The hose need to essentially turn 270* to go from one fitting to the other on the block. This cost about $45 total and wasn't the cheapest solution, but one that I felt I could trust when going 10/10ths in the middle of summer.

https://i.imgur.com/77CMIMt.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/NVu5Ht9.jpg?1

As you can see it did an extremely good job of creating 90 degree bends in a straight hose and it is a much cleaner and reliable set up than what I originally had

https://i.imgur.com/UWpGxlI.jpg?1

Here is the final product, no hoses are touching and have room to move with the engine. They actually are surprisingly sturdy and do not bounce around. The metal springs give it some strength and the hose is very strong.

https://i.imgur.com/q5y0iSy.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/tZ3hUc4.jpg?1

As always I sprayed the inside of the hose ends with silicone lube before install, this has proven itself very effective much later down the road when you need to remove them.

If you ever need to do a heater core bypass for any reason, *DO NOT JUST CAP THE FITTINGS AT THE BLOCK*
the coolant flow as shown in the diagram below shows a true flow through design. The coolant needs to flow from one fitting to the other it is not a simple outflow design from both fittings.

https://i.imgur.com/DMihyyD.jpg?1

I am slowly working my way through the electrical. I am currently trying isolate all of the rear wires as I am pretty sure the only ones I need are the abs, rear lights and fuel pump wires. The rest will be stripped out as lean as possible, meaning all relays will be going as well.

Not only does this make the car lighter, but more importantly it makes it much easier to diagnose future problems as there is minimal wiring to sort through.

I have isolated the airbag wires up to the front of the car and once i get done with the rear, I will be starting to separate them from the main dash board harness. There is a huge amount of wiring in this not so modern car and most of it is now obsolete as most of it is from the airbag sensors and climate control functions.

I also have to look at the factory repair manual to see what modules can be thrown out. I have already removed the small airbag ones but there is a large bulky one directly in front of the steering wheel that I suspect is the immobilizer ECU which is currently useless and bypassed anyways. I have always loved a simple car, so much easier to work on so this is making me feel very satisfied.

As a side, my wife and I have just conditionally sold out home and our next one will have a single car garage at the very least so I will eventually have my track car back at home with me again before the winter comes!

[CrankyOldMan]

I also have to look at the factory repair manual to see what modules can be thrown out. I have already removed the small airbag ones but there is a large bulky one directly in front of the steering wheel that I suspect is the immobilizer ECU which is currently useless and bypassed anyways.
The power steering controller is right above the column, on top of and slightly forward of the metal tube. It's a big metal box with heavy gauge wires.

[tmontague]

Yuuup that's the one, looks like I'll be keeping that. According to others who have tracked their yaris, the power steering is much more beneficial to be left in.

Thanks Sam!

[ern-diz]

Little man looking like he's having a great time with his pops. Just awesome.

[tsk94]

*I forgot to mention my plan for future windshield defogging if needed. Bimmerworld sells a $100 kit that is clear defroster wires that I can wire up right off of the battery with a switch that works similar to your rear defroster wires. This IMO is a perfect solution as it is light weight and would be very effective. I likely won't need this until I start doing time attack in rain or shine in the future as I am mostly only tracking in warm temps without rain currently. It didn't make sense to keep all of the HVAC just for defogging purposes.


I don't know if you've purchased or installed it yet, but the BW defroster works great. I have it on my E92 race car. I was a bit reluctant at first to how effective it would be, but this season we've had quite a few wet track days and it's worked incredibly well.

https://i.imgur.com/RXk0dJ6.png

A bit hard to see in the photo(kind of the point haha). It's a bit strange at first, but after driving with it for the first session the lines just disappear - great track car solution. :thumbup:

[tmontague]

Excellent I appreciate your input having used it first hand. How did the install go assuming you installed it when the windshield was already installed on the car?

I've done a fair amount if wiring on cars in the past but I'm curious if you wired it directly off the battery with an inline fuse or what you found was the best?

[tsk94]

Excellent I appreciate your input having used it first hand. How did the install go assuming you installed it when the windshield was already installed on the car?

I've done a fair amount if wiring on cars in the past but I'm curious if you wired it directly off the battery with an inline fuse or what you found was the best?

Yes, the windshield was in the car when it was installed. The install went fine. It comes with good instructions, if you're patient and take your time it will all go smoothly.

I can't remember exactly for the wiring, it wasn't directly off the battery though. I believe we used a power wire from a module we unplugged and removed during the build. Spliced into the power wire and then used an existing ground. In the instructions to provides a few options for wiring - we followed one of them and it worked perfectly! I may be wrong but I believe this is how we did it. That being said there are many options you can do to get power.

[tmontague]

I headed out with Ron and the crew for the last session of the year at TMP this past Friday. It was only my second track day of the year due to finances and the crazyness of life. I actually had not been to the track for a few months this year and my Yaris has sat in the back of a warehouse for that time.

https://i.imgur.com/w8w6HbO.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/UvKmbrL.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/x3AsWny.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/ThkDcOr.jpg?1

I had started decluttering the wiring a few weeks ago as I was itching to work on my car and had the help of my son to do this. This was a much bigger project than I had anticipated and I was not able to properly finish it before the track day. I ended up semi finishing it and just tucking everything away so I could still drive around the track. In all this haste I ended up cutting and removing a few extra wires and my speedometer wasn't functioning. This only really mattered on the drive to the track as I don't really look at my speedometer much while on the track.

https://i.imgur.com/E6777jE.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/KDj5d1J.jpg?1

I have since fixed the speedometer after pouring over some EWD's and finding the respective wire that was missing and reconnecting it to the speed sensor wire. I currently don't have any dash illumination and my oil pressure light and CEL are not working. I'm still not sure if I will be reconnecting these as it really isn't useful for me at this point with what the car is used for.

I ended up removing about 2 piles of wired this big...

https://i.imgur.com/6lWiFSy.jpg?1

Anyways - the last time at TMP I managed to do a PB of a 1:26:44 which I was very happy with. I knew there was more time in the car as this was on a new tire set up and I was starting to push the brake pads outside of their limit as they were mildly fading and lacking that sharp bite at every brake zone.

I had very little left on my track pads and wasn't sure how much time I would have on them for the last lapping day of the season. I was hoping for a faster lap time but realistically didn't think it was going to happen. I did a quick 6 or so lap warm up session and then set tire pressures (fwiw I run a 30 psi rear and a 31 psi FR and a 34psi FL hot pressure). I headed out for a 20 minute second session and was very sloppy with my footwork. It had been a while and I wasn't feeling very confident in my sharpness. I managed a 1:27 in that session.

I headed out for my 3rd (and last) session of the night and started out by following Ron and his buddy in the two cup cars while I warmed up. There is nothing more fun on the track than chasing around two excellent drivers in these cup cars! They drove the pi$s out of them, one wheel in the air, then two, locking tires, sliding etc it was a wack of fun and helped me get my confidence back to over drive my car. They pointed me by and I just set out to have fun.

I started gaining confidence each lap and my footwork and braking zones drastically improved. My lap timer was showing that I was taking seconds off on some laps. I started pushing the limit in the big corners and the car reacted very well and in control. I was working my ass off to keep the car pointed where I wanted it to go, but it was getting faster. The track at this time was very quiet as most people went home so I decided to send it. I ended up turning a 1:24:98 on my last lap! I ended up pulling in because my brakes started making noise as if they were onto the backing plates. I was actually getting faster and faster every lap.

I removed the brake pads and sure enough it was virtually down to the plates, calling an end to the season on brake pads that owed me nothing else. I was extremely happy with a 1:24, check out Speed Academy's lap board to get some insight into lap time at TMP https://speed.academy/speed-academy-lap-time-leaderboard/

All those times are completed by Dave Pratt (sp?) who has over 15 years of driving at TMP and it a very fast driver - essentially as fast as most can expect to go in each lap time he has complete. On most lapping days at TMP a decent track day bro in an STI will throw down a 1:27 so a 1:24 in a Yaris is pretty darn fun.

The car ran flawlessly, it was a cool day (ambient around 10*C), oil temps sat around 230 and peaked at 240*F, coolant hovered around 195*F and peaked at 202*F. The AR-1 tires are phenomenal especially given their price range. They handled the continuous laps without becoming greasy and their wear is respectable. They actually felt faster and faster late into my sessions, meaning they probably could have stood to use some more heat in them. They also are not outright slick when cold like the BFG R1's were.

All in all I am very pleased with how the season ended even though the season was a bit of a write off in terms of track time. My plans for next season are to get a tow dolly, replace all of the side and rear glass with lexan so I can remove the inner door skins and heavy window motors. I will be getting a new set of more aggressive brake pads and adding in front windshield defrosters. I also plan on finalising the wiring and removing useless wiring from the engine bay and fuse blocks. The cabin wiring is almost done, but I need to properly mount the wiring so it is not just hanging around.

My wife and I recently purchased a new home that has a 12' wide single car garage that is heated and insulated. This is large enough to keep all of my car tools in there as well as store my Yaris. I'll finally be able to work on the Yaris as I please, even if it is just for an hour or so. No more commuting and bringing tools to go work on it!

[06YarisRS]

You gotta stop this talk! LOL! It's making me want to do some tire and suspension work on my car!

I know virtually nothing about racing, but I looked at the Speed Academy link and you pretty much tied the time of a Subaru WRX STI. Surely the STI would make significantly better times on the straightaways, so your little Yaris must be making it up in the turns. Of course driver skill would come into play as well. Is this a logical thought process? If so, wow, that is testimony to how well your car handles and the work you've done to get it there! If I'm wrong, feel free to correct me in my thought processes.

I don't know what it is about WRX's but that's the car - in its weakest and stock variant - that I'd love to be able to beat with my car. It looks like the average 0 - 60 for the various models of WRX is around 6s. I'd never be able to achieve that, especially without an LSD, but I did manage to raise the eyebrows of a WRX driver the other day. I noticed a (I think ~2012) WRX gaining on me in the distance and I was behind another car. I was cruising around 120 km/h, so with the Subaru a reasonable distance behind me, I pulled out from behind the car in front of me and matted it. I was up to 170 pretty fast. I slowed back to 120 and the Subaru cruised past me, the driver looking over with a grin on his face. He didn't speed up but I think he definitely appreciated how quick the little 'silver bullet' econobox in front of him took off. I think 7s might be possible in my car with better tires, but 6s? NEVER without an LSD, built engine, better trans and significantly more boost. As it sits, I lose time in first and second as it really wants to spin its tires.

[tmontague]

You gotta stop this talk! LOL! It's making me want to do some tire and suspension work on my car!

I know virtually nothing about racing, but I looked at the Speed Academy link and you pretty much tied the time of a Subaru WRX STI. Surely the STI would make significantly better times on the straightaways, so your little Yaris must be making it up in the turns. Of course driver skill would come into play as well. Is this a logical thought process? If so, wow, that is testimony to how well your car handles and the work you've done to get it there! If I'm wrong, feel free to correct me in my thought processes.

I don't know what it is about WRX's but that's the car - in its weakest and stock variant - that I'd love to be able to beat with my car. It looks like the average 0 - 60 for the various models of WRX is around 6s. I'd never be able to achieve that, especially without an LSD, but I did manage to raise the eyebrows of a WRX driver the other day. I noticed a (I think ~2012) WRX gaining on me in the distance and I was behind another car. I was cruising around 120 km/h, so with the Subaru a reasonable distance behind me, I pulled out from behind the car in front of me and matted it. I was up to 170 pretty fast. I slowed back to 120 and the Subaru cruised past me, the driver looking over with a grin on his face. He didn't speed up but I think he definitely appreciated how quick the little 'silver bullet' econobox in front of him took off. I think 7s might be possible in my car with better tires, but 6s? NEVER without an LSD, built engine, better trans and significantly more boost. As it sits, I lose time in first and second as it really wants to spin its tires.

lol definitely do tires first, but that of course will let you down the road of suspension. IMHO I would recommend 340TW BFG G-force sport comp 2's on your set up. You will never realistically (or safely) push past their limit on public roads and they are phenomenal and predictable in the wet. Anything more than simple lowering springs and slightly stiffer dampers would start to make you regret your decision over time...trust me I have been down that road and I was ok with it because my cars was becoming a dedicated track car but therre is no way I would have been dailying it much longer.

An LSD won't help you too much in a straight line at least not width typical Yaris tires. I still spin my tires if I take off from a dead stop with sticky tires at anything close to WOT. The LSD in my experience is the most beneficial when at the absolute limit of grip in the corners and you want to put down the throttle. It actually helps you pull forward and steer your car through the corners. Also really helps you control a snap oversteer by throttling out of it whereas an open diff will just spin the inside tire. The better driver I become the most I appreciate the clutch type diff.

Dave at Speed Academy is by far a better/more experienced driver than me so put those times in perspective...to be fair though he also doesn't have a ton of seat time in some of those cars he did laps on. The cars that they built he has a ton of seat time in, but some of the lap times are on viewers cars that he does a few hot laps in.

The 2016 STI no doubts pulls harder and faster in the straights however TMP is a track that is considered relatively low speed, very tight and extremely hard on brakes. It favours momentum cars or at least better drivers as there are less places to simply got WOT in a straight to make up for poor cornering and poor driver skill.

My car and myself are much faster on the infield at TMP as I can carry more speed through the turns and the Yaris transitions from corner to corner much better. Much of this has to do with the low weight of the Yaris compared to the STI - the Yaris is much more "flickable" side to side and part of which makes it such a blast to drive. Keep in mind my Yaris is still only putting down somewhere in the ball park of 138ish whp.

There is no doubt that the Yaris is being driven past its limits compared to many other big power cars at TMP. According to spectators they Yaris and cup cars are a blast to watch as they are screeching around corners and lifting wheels where as the other cars typically are much more cautious.

[06YarisRS]

lol definitely do tires first, but that of course will let you down the road of suspension. IMHO I would recommend 340TW BFG G-force sport comp 2's on your set up. You will never realistically (or safely) push past their limit on public roads and they are phenomenal and predictable in the wet. Anything more than simple lowering springs and slightly stiffer dampers would start to make you regret your decision over time...trust me I have been down that road and I was ok with it because my cars was becoming a dedicated track car but therre is no way I would have been dailying it much longer.

An LSD won't help you too much in a straight line at least not width typical Yaris tires. I still spin my tires if I take off from a dead stop with sticky tires at anything close to WOT. The LSD in my experience is the most beneficial when at the absolute limit of grip in the corners and you want to put down the throttle. It actually helps you pull forward and steer your car through the corners. Also really helps you control a snap oversteer by throttling out of it whereas an open diff will just spin the inside tire. The better driver I become the most I appreciate the clutch type diff.

Dave at Speed Academy is by far a better/more experienced driver than me so put those times in perspective...to be fair though he also doesn't have a ton of seat time in some of those cars he did laps on. The cars that they built he has a ton of seat time in, but some of the lap times are on viewers cars that he does a few hot laps in.

The 2016 STI no doubts pulls harder and faster in the straights however TMP is a track that is considered relatively low speed, very tight and extremely hard on brakes. It favours momentum cars or at least better drivers as there are less places to simply got WOT in a straight to make up for poor cornering and poor driver skill.

My car and myself are much faster on the infield at TMP as I can carry more speed through the turns and the Yaris transitions from corner to corner much better. Much of this has to do with the low weight of the Yaris compared to the STI - the Yaris is much more "flickable" side to side and part of which makes it such a blast to drive. Keep in mind my Yaris is still only putting down somewhere in the ball park of 138ish whp.

There is no doubt that the Yaris is being driven past its limits compared to many other big power cars at TMP. According to spectators they Yaris and cup cars are a blast to watch as they are screeching around corners and lifting wheels where as the other cars typically are much more cautious.

I checked out the Sport Comps. The smallest size is 195/50R15. Unfortunately this is out of spec for my factory alloys which is what I intend to keep on the car. I do actually have 195/60R15s on the car now, but there's a bit of sidewall bulge. It still handles well and the tires won't come off, I think, under extreme cornering, but it might defeat the purpose of the performance tire. A.K.A. I might not reap the benefits of such a great performance tire. Also, with the lower side wall height of the Sport Comp, the sidewall deformation might even be exaggerated.

Yeah, I might not see a lot of benefit from an LSD, and certainly wouldn't be worth the hassle and expense of installing one on this auto trans, although I believe there migh be one available. I know though that I could improve my 0 - 60 time without the amount of wheel spin I get. I'd really love get close to 6s, pipe dream, I know. I'm pretty sure that 7s might be attainable with the right launch as the car sits.

[tmontague]

I checked out the Sport Comps. The smallest size is 195/50R15. Unfortunately this is out of spec for my factory alloys which is what I intend to keep on the car. I do actually have 195/60R15s on the car now, but there's a bit of sidewall bulge. It still handles well and the tires won't come off, I think, under extreme cornering, but it might defeat the purpose of the performance tire. A.K.A. I might not reap the benefits of such a great performance tire. Also, with the lower side wall height of the Sport Comp, the sidewall deformation might even be exaggerated.

Yeah, I might not see a lot of benefit from an LSD, and certainly wouldn't be worth the hassle and expense of installing one on this auto trans, although I believe there migh be one available. I know though that I could improve my 0 - 60 time without the amount of wheel spin I get. I'd really love get close to 6s, pipe dream, I know. I'm pretty sure that 7s might be attainable with the right launch as the car sits.

I don't remember the exact specs of the factory rims but I cannot imagine the BFG's in the above size should cause any problems even under extreme cornering. Realistically the tire will start to give way before the bead and rim do. It is only a 340tw and even though it isd a sticky 340 it will not perform anywhere close to Hoosier slicks.

a 6sec 0-60 would be pretty nuts in a Yaris, but at the end of the day it's all a balance of cost and what it would cost to do a 6sec 0-60 would likely be quite a bit. Only you can make that decision but if you don't have plans to run the car at a drag strip or race it that price can be quite steep just for the sake of knowing it can run that fast. Like I said that is a decision only you can make as the owner and person who is actually paying to do everything to the car. It would be pretty wild though:thumbsup:

[tmontague]

A couple days after the last track event I drove my car the short 20 min drive back to where I store it or at least will be storing it up until I move to a new house mid November. I run a 10% coolant to water mix with Amsoil coolant booster during the summer. The 10% coolant is to aid in adding some amount of lubrication as well as a moderate freeze protection in case of a flash freeze in the spring/fall. According to my coolant tester it is good to about -18*C which is pretty good. I have a few litres of this mix left and will use it up but eventually will switch to a 30/70 coolant/water mix as I don't have the coolant temp issues I used to have since I went with a performance radiator set up.

With my new radiator set up the filler neck is now below the top of the engine block. Simply raising the front of the car up doesn't allow the filler neck to get to the highest point anymore. The easiest solution if to get a pressure filler and a cheaper option is a Lisle spill free funnel which I will likely pick up for next season. But for now I have found if I jack up the passenger side as high as I can (the side the filler neck is on) and spend about 10 mins squeezing the lower rad hose, I can get a bunch of air to get out of the system. I then let it idle up to operating temps before driving it and let it cool down and depressurise and typically this causes no issue when doing this before a track day.


The other day I had an issue, a potentially big one. I drained and filled the race coolant with my typical 55/45 coolant/water winter mix I have in all of my cars. I didn't spend any time squeezing the rad hoses of letting the car idle. I simply lifted the one side of the car and re filled the coolant. I was in a bit of a rush as I had to get the car to the warehouse as I only had it insured for another day so I could drive it on the street. As I started to drive it I noticed the coolant going above the typical 190-195*F, and it was a cool day (~15*C ambient). It started going to 200 then 204 and up. I got onto the highway and opened it up a bit, the coolant started climbing and got into 240 and then 244*F. At 240* the red temp light started to flash. I immediately back off and cruised and noticed the coolant start to immediate lower. Then after another 30 secs it started dropping rapidly to 190*F, this meant the Tstat finally opened.

I drove like this for another few mins and then tried getting on the gas again a bit. This started to happen again when revs for above 4k. I back off when I saw the temp go above 230*F. The boiling point of the coolant is north of 255*F so I wasn't too worried about boiling over but I was worried about damage to the head at those temps.

Likely what happened was the following: Air still in system and eventually found its way to the Tsat therefore stopping it from opening. Coolant temp at the head climbed and climbed as there was no flow to the rad. This was made worse at high revs as this causes higher engine temps. I also think that the higher rpm may have caused the problem to become larger by the faster spinning water pump potentially moving the air bubbles towards the Tsat (not fully sure).

Before I drive it again I will jack up the passenger side, remove the rad cap and squeeze the lower rad hose to make the jiggle pin jiggle. If I remove the rad cap with the car flat on the ground 300mls of coolant will plummet out even when it isn't under pressure due to the coolant neck being below the highest point of the system.

Eventually I will use the Lisle spill free funnel and with that attached to the filler neck and the passenger side raised it will become the highest point of the system by a long shot and it should make this job much easier to do in the future.

[suprf1y]

Unfortunately this is out of spec for my factory alloys



So are track days.

If you're going to be tracking you're gong to have to stop thinking like that

[CrankyOldMan]

Congrats! Super stoked to see you getting back in to the groove.

The hoarder in me wants to keep those wire harnesses "just in case I need them", but good on you for sorting them out!

[06YarisRS]

I don't remember the exact specs of the factory rims but I cannot imagine the BFG's in the above size should cause any problems even under extreme cornering. Realistically the tire will start to give way before the bead and rim do. It is only a 340tw and even though it isd a sticky 340 it will not perform anywhere close to Hoosier slicks.

a 6sec 0-60 would be pretty nuts in a Yaris, but at the end of the day it's all a balance of cost and what it would cost to do a 6sec 0-60 would likely be quite a bit. Only you can make that decision but if you don't have plans to run the car at a drag strip or race it that price can be quite steep just for the sake of knowing it can run that fast. Like I said that is a decision only you can make as the owner and person who is actually paying to do everything to the car. It would be pretty wild though:thumbsup:

So you're pretty convinced that I'd be ok with the Sport Comps on my 5.5" rims? Do you have any other brand suggestions for a 195/55R15 tire before I get deeped into this? I've been turning a little sharper lately and there doesn't seem to be any adverse handling even with the cheap tires I have on the car which are 195/60R15s. I think a 55 tire might improve handling a bit, especially if it had a stiffer wall. Here is a comparison between my current tires and a 55 tire. I might notice a tiny bit better acceleration as well with the slightly smaller tire diameter. What I'd really like is a 205 or 215 tire but that would definitely necessitate wider wheels. :frown:

https://i.imgur.com/0FzMFBE.jpg

[tmontague]

Congrats! Super stoked to see you getting back in to the groove.

The hoarder in me wants to keep those wire harnesses "just in case I need them", but good on you for sorting them out!

Thanks Sam - FWIW I have kept all of the electrical that I stripped out. plan on keeping it in a bin in case I need pins or connectors in the future. I have already used some of it when I needed wire to fix the speedometer and dash warning lights.

So you're pretty convinced that I'd be ok with the Sport Comps on my 5.5" rims? Do you have any other brand suggestions for a 195/55R15 tire before I get deeped into this? I've been turning a little sharper lately and there doesn't seem to be any adverse handling even with the cheap tires I have on the car which are 195/60R15s. I think a 55 tire might improve handling a bit, especially if it had a stiffer wall. Here is a comparison between my current tires and a 55 tire. I might notice a tiny bit better acceleration as well with the slightly smaller tire diameter. What I'd really like is a 205 or 215 tire but that would definitely necessitate wider wheels. :frown:

https://i.imgur.com/0FzMFBE.jpg

The BFG's should be fine on a 5.5" wide, it is at the limit but won't negate the benefit of those tires, they are fairly stiff and perform very well in wet conditions with a very predictable breakaway.

That said, I don't know if you really would benefit from shelling out cash for the tires right now if you are not finding the limits of your current rubber. They will just wear out faster than your current set up without utilising their full potential

[06YarisRS]

The BFG's should be fine on a 5.5" wide, it is at the limit but won't negate the benefit of those tires, they are fairly stiff and perform very well in wet conditions with a very predictable breakaway.

That said, I don't know if you really would benefit from shelling out cash for the tires right now if you are not finding the limits of your current rubber. They will just wear out faster than your current set up without utilising their full potential

You might be right. The tires on there now make the car handle adequately, so I may just keep them until they wear down a bit. When I replace them, I'll go for a performance oriented 55 tire. If I had gobs of cash and felt like blowing it, I'd have the factoy alloys widened an inch or and inch and a half and put a nice chunky 205 or 215 tire on there. All assuming of course that there'd be the appropriate amount of clearance with the stock offset. I'm not sure how wide a tire would have to be to start degrading performance (losing traction) on such a light car as the Yaris.

[myfirstyota]

Fwiw
I have a 205/50 R15 on the factory RS alloys. Nitto neo is the type. But the tire guy said they had a hard time seating the beads lol

[06YarisRS]

Fwiw
I have a 205/50 R15 on the factory RS alloys. Nitto neo is the type. But the tire guy said they had a hard time seating the beads lol

Wow! I think a 205 would look a great on the Yaris. I assumed a tire that wide on a 5.5" rim would peel off on a hard corner, or be mushy handling. Did you notice a significant difference in driving characteristics when you went with the wider tire? I suppose the lower sidewall might add some stiffness. I'm really interested in your observations.