Big rust hole at rear control arm

[shepd]

I was about to replace the exhaust system on my yaris when I found this major rust hole (it was smaller until I beat all the loose stuff away with a screwdriver).

What are the chances I can get that repaired by a professional welder? I know someone who is willing to do work like this, but the last thing I had repaired (rear control arm torn out of subframe on a Jeep WJ) looked a lot easier to fix. This area seems to have a lot more bends.

Or is the car done for? I don't know how much stress that area takes, I can only guess, and to me it looks pretty darn important that the rear control arm and the axle stabilizer link (I think that's what that is in the middle of the pic) stay where they are... :(

Unfortunately, I couldn't zoom out any further for more context. This is just in front of the right rear wheel well underneath the car.

:cry:

[ex-x-fire]

I'd replace the whole axle from a junkyard.

[CrankyOldMan]

That's really bad! I think you might be able to cobble up something, but that's a major structural point for the rear suspension. You'd probably have to replace most of the underbody panel in that area to keep it structurally sound. Eek!

[dogsridewith]

pull the rear seat, carpet, and plastic covers over wheel arches and behind

[WeeYari]

I'd replace the whole axle from a junkyard.

:rolleyes: obviously does not comprehend the issue.

You ask if the car is toast and I'd have to say darn close to it. Is that the only weak spot that has developed, or are there other areas of concern with your under-body? Looks to me like it has never been rust proofed in its life and given the age of vehicle, I've got real concerns for its condition.

[KimmoKekki]

Had this car been submerged to sea water ??

Lähetetty minun ONEPLUS A3003 laitteesta Tapatalkilla

[ex-x-fire]

:rolleyes: obviously does not comprehend the issue.

You ask if the car is toast and I'd have to say darn close to it. Is that the only weak spot that has developed, or are there other areas of concern with your under-body? Looks to me like it has never been rust proofed in its life and given the age of vehicle, I've got real concerns for its condition.
What! He said there's a hole in control arm, picture is not great, he did not say theres hole in body, axle mount or what ever.

[KimmoKekki]

Which year model that car is and where it is built ??

[shepd]

Sorry, it's a hole in the part of the subframe that the control arm connects to.

Yeah, it looks like it's done. Found a deal on a Mistubishi Mirage, so I'm gonna end up with that. Was fun owning a Yaris while it lasted! And yes, there's lots of rust everywhere else, but that's the only point so crispy my screwdriver went through it. The other side looks like a shipwreck, though.

I bet the original owner never rustproofed it. I did have it oil sprayed a little over a year ago (I've owned this car for a bit over 2 years? I can't remember exactly) but you can't fix issues like that. In November I sprayed a full can of rust converter on all the rust spots, including that one, but with rust that bad, she's dead.

It's a 2007 Yaris. I'm not sure which factory built it. What's the easiest way to find out? I expect I'll end up giving this car to the dealer when I buy the Mirage. Otherwise, I'm hoping to get $500 at an auto auction. Everything else works well. I even replaced much of the front end (control arms, tie rods, wheel bearings, etc) a year ago!

(Yes, I know the Mirage has no power and that it's ridiculously low end, but I want pure gas mileage at the right price, in a car that's easy to fix and it fits the bill. So does the Yaris, except for the price part). First thing I'm doing is taking it to Krown for rustproofing and bringing it back there yearly to keep up the rustproofing warranty. I hate seeing good cars go to the junkyard for nothing.

Assuming I buy the Mirage, I will have a brand new catalytic converter, brand new muffler, and associated parts (bolt kit, gaskets) I need to sell. Anyone in need? If you're in Canada (Especially Kitchener/Waterloo/Cambridge/Guelph/Mississauga Ontario area) they're going to be the right price, trust me.

[CrankyOldMan]

If you have the space and time, a part-out might be more profitable in the long run, and may help others in the Yaris community. I know not everyone can be like CTScott and strip it to the frame and store it in the garage, but every little bit can help.

[CB900F2]

WHAT THE!!!!... Like what KimmoKekki said!... where has your car been?

[Sirius-XM]

I am hoping Yaris ownership is not a repeat of (original) Volkswagen Beetle ownership. The last few years with the Beetle was a losing battle against rust. Everything else worked great. The Beetle was probably more repairable than the Yaris as the structure points were the heater channels and the tunnel/pan and the heater channels could be replaced. Not easily but doable. Sheet metal and fiberglass panels were also available to replace non structural parts.

Back in the late 1980s I was visiting a friend who repaired Volkswagens and he had Beetles piled two high on a flatbread and was taking them to the junk yard as scrap. He said every one of them ran but they were too rotted out to fix and he had enough spare parts. Nowadays he could have made a fortune on eBay.

[shepd]

If you have the space and time, a part-out might be more profitable in the long run, and may help others in the Yaris community. I know not everyone can be like CTScott and strip it to the frame and store it in the garage, but every little bit can help.

I was considering that, but unfortunately, I just don't have the driveway space for another car. I have a mini-bus I'm converting to an RV, the wife's SUV, and the Yaris, and about 4 foot to the sidewalk. :(

If I send it off to a junkyard, I'll let y'all know which one so you can pick it bare. :)

[tmontague]

This blows me away, after seeing my 9 year old car driven in similar conditions and how little rust it has, I'm really curious as to where the previous owner drive this. I'm thinking a lot of gravel roads leading to paint chips and then salt water corroding it all

[shepd]

The dealer I bought it from said the previous owner was an ambulance driver and Barrie rings a bell as to where he lived. I bought the car in Brampton. So I assume he drove down the 400 and back every day. Would make sense since the 400 series highways get extreme salt treatments. Got it at a decent price and the car needed plenty of work, but I'm OK with that (dealer took care of safety items like struts, wheel bearings, ABS, brakes, etc--I ended up dealing with the exhaust, another wheel bearing, control arms, tie rods, battery, and a starter--which rusted out!).

I'm doing the same thing on the 401 now, but I will be rust treating the new car yearly! I hear parking on grass is bad for cars, too, so I avoid that--maybe the previous owner didn't? :)

I don't think all Yarises are like this, but check where this vehicle went rusty on any one you plan to buy. Seems like a possible weak point.

KimmoKekki asked where it was built. According to an online VIN decoder, it was built in Japan. The serial portion of the VIN is 032089.

[dogsridewith]

I am hoping Yaris ownership is not a repeat of (original) Volkswagen Beetle ownership. The last few years was a losing battle against rust. Everything else worked great. The Beetle was probably more repairable than the Yaris as the structure points were the heater channels and the tunnel/pan and the heater channels could be replaced. Not easily but doable. Sheet metal and fiberglass panels were also available to replace non structural parts.

Back in the late 1980s I was visiting a friend who repaired Volkswagens and he had Beetles piled two high on a flatbread and was taking them to the junk yard as scrap. He said every one of them ran but they were too rotted out to fix and he had enough spare parts. Nowadays he could have made a fortune on eBay.
Were you driving 1949 Beetles until 2009? (If you've been driving winters in NJ in other vehicles that didn't die of rust, please identify.)
(This thread indicates Mind of Toyota gave Yaris the corrosion protection of circa 1987-91 Tercel/FX-16/Corolla)

[Sirius-XM]

Were you driving 1949 Beetles until 2009? (If you've been driving winters in NJ in other vehicles that didn't die of rust, please identify.)
(This thread indicates Mind of Toyota gave Yaris the corrosion protection of circa 1987-91 Tercel/FX-16/Corolla)

I had a 1972 Volkswagen Super Beetle. Great car but by 1994 the rust had eaten from inside the heater channel and had separated the heater channel from the lower front section of the door frame. Technically repairable but not cost effective.

I am hoping the Yaris does not have the corrosion problems of a 1980's Toyota or classic Beetle. My Yaris runs great for a ten year old car with 146,000 miles and I hope to get another 10 years out of it.

My Yaris has surface rust in spots and other patches that are a little more troubling, still understandable. I have had the control arm bolts corrode and break, a common problem in states that use salt. My 1986 Dodge Aries, 1989 Dodge Shadow & 2002 Dodge Neon were rust free well beyond ten years. I am not saying they were better cars than the Yaris although they too were good cars. The Aries and Neon had transmission failures (at > 125K) and Shadow had a head gasket fail at 150K which I regret not fixing and keeping the car.

[WeeYari]

I will have a brand new catalytic converter, brand new muffler, and associated parts (bolt kit, gaskets) I need to sell

Details please.

[tarkus]

This blows me away, after seeing my 9 year old car driven in similar conditions and how little rust it has,
Yes, the same for my rust-free 11 year old Yaris.

My previous 10 year old Echo only had one minor rust spot just above a rear wheel, that appeared to be from a poorly done previous body repair. I got it redone properly for $400. Basically, these cars are known for not rusting, as with most Toyotas.

Sent from my phone with Tapatalk. Please excuse any typpos.

[shepd]

Details please.

Parts are from RockAuto:

Catalytic Converter (48 State): EASTERN CATALYTIC 40845 ECO III
Includes downpipe gasket and muffler gasket. Includes hardware (spring/bolt/nuts) for the downpipe. Includes clamp for catback pipe. I am also throwing in an extra spring/bolt/nut kit for the muffler section. Fits 07 - 11 Yaris Hatchback.

I also have a Walker Muffler (can't remember the number, but it's the one that does NOT look like OEM but fits just fine--actually bought that from HotSpot) + bolts/spring/nut kit + muffler gasket + downpipe gasket to sell.

I figure $300 for the catalytic converter and associated parts, and $50 for the muffler and associated parts. Brand new in box. If you are interested, make an offer. :)

I drive from Kitchener to Pearson Airport every day for work so if you're on the 401 in that area I can arrange to drop it off. Or if you're nearby Kitchener or Pearson Airport, maybe I can deliver it.

[WeeYari]

I also have a Walker Muffler (can't remember the number, but it's the one that does NOT look like OEM but fits just fine--actually bought that from HotSpot) + bolts/spring/nut kit + muffler gasket + downpipe gasket to sell.

Possibly interested. When I switch over to my Medalion in the spring I'll be able to inspect my stock pumpkin again. When it went on last fall, I figured one of the hangers wasn't going to last much longer.

I'm 2km from the 401/Winston Churchill exchange.

[shepd]

Possibly interested. When I switch over to my Medalion in the spring I'll be able to inspect my stock pumpkin again. When it went on last fall, I figured one of the hangers wasn't going to last much longer.

I'm 2km from the 401/Winston Churchill exchange.

No problem. PM me once you've checked and you are certain you want it and we can arrange for me to drop it off. :) Would be around 6:00 - 7:00 pm depending on traffic.

[06YarisRS]

Reviving an old thread

I am doing this because it is my belief that this common issue on Yaris hatchbacks does not necessarily have to mean a death sentence for the car. Lately, I have seen more and more failed inspection Yaris Hatchbacks coming up for sale. Most are 06 and 07 models, but we know that this 'design flaw' (more on that in a minute) runs through to 2011. The term 'design flaw' was not my term, but that of a friend who has years and years of experience with many different Toyota models, including the Yaris. He too believes that with the right repairs, that these Yari can live on, and on and on. I expect that Yari in more forgiving climates (those in which road salt or other de-icers are not used) may not suffer this issue - at least for a much longer time.

The red 2007 Yaris that I just bought has the same corrosion and decay just inboard of the rear axle bushing mount. I have discovered the following:

- the pocket (large cavity) into which the bushing mount is molded fills with sand, dirt, other debris, and, of course water. This soggy mess quickly corrodes the thin metal, resulting in a hole in the lowest section, where moisture will pool. This mess builds up and makes its way out toward the dogleg and lower aft rocker panel areas.

- If caught early enough (as in my 2006 RS), oil can be sprayed into this area via large rubber oblong plugs that are easily removeable. Via these plugs, you can access a large portion of the rear unibody - the areas that are prone to rot.

- Although it initially appears that the rear axle is about to break free from the body, I don't believe this is the case. To illustrate, here is a pic of the driver's side of my red 07 RS as well as the original pic posted by OP shepd.

https://i.imgur.com/5R4kXlo.png

https://i.imgur.com/aUobNmf.jpg

I believe that these gaping holes can be closed up by welding metal. Before I bought the red RS, I jacked the car up on jackstands and I did my best to break the axle bushing loose from the body with a large crowbar. Despite all the rot the axle mounts were extremely strong. I could not budge them no matter how much force I put on the bar.

Here is what I am going to attempt:

Weld a plate on the outboard side of the metal to which the axle bushing is attached:

https://i.imgur.com/sGoTRmb.jpg

Weld strips to cover the hole:

https://i.imgur.com/UBnjYsv.jpg

I would then consider covering the metal repair with thick fiberglass mat. Then apply bedliner over top.

I thought about attempting to remove the axle bushing bolt and dropping the axle before the repair, but I expect that the bolt is severely rusted and might break. I will, however, apply copious penetrating oil over a few days and see if I can get the bolt moving. I think dropping the axle would offer the best chance of a lasting repair. But, reinforcing everything before attempting to remove the bolt might be the better option, especially since the bolt will be drenched in oil after the repair is done (see below re: rustproofing)

At the lowest point - where water might pool - I plan to drill a 1/2 hole and plug it with a 1/2 rustproofing plug. The entire cavity will then be drenched in oil, ATF or something like Fluid Film. Drenching this cavity will continue to be part of my annual rustproofing regimen.

[dbrear]

Sorry to revive an older thread, but I don't know where best to post. 06YarisRS mentions in the above post "oil can be sprayed into this area via large rubber oblong plugs that are easily removable. Via these plugs, you can access a large portion of the rear unibody."

Where are these plugs? I can accept that I may be an idiot and this might be forehead-slapping obvious, but I was just looking on my 08 three door hatch and couldn't find them. Can anybody help? If you can't post a picture, can someone provide a description of where to look?

[ex-x-fire]

The picture above at the 3 o'clock position. That's where a rubber plug would be.

[06YarisRS]

Just inside that oblong hole that ex-x-fire mentions, there is a vertical hole about the size of a quarter just inside that oblong hole. You can get a wand or a spray straw inside there. That will access what I call the 'bowl' that Toyota kindly created to store water. Lol. Spray tons of stuff in there. If it was like mine, it will be full of crap. I used coat hanger bent in various directions to scrape all that stuff out.

Don't know of you saw this or not, but here is the thread where I made the repairs.

https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62787

[dbrear]

Thanks So Much! About how many of these plugs are there in the body? I'm aware of at least one in the trunk below the spare (there could be more in there, I don't remember), is there a general list of locations?

[HDS]

My car looked like this in 2020, shop repaired it and now in 2024 it's as bad again (rusted around the fix). This time I'm doing the repair myself and putting in drain plugs. I don't think it looks that hard to fix, the real issue is not having a lift.

The thicker side wall the control arm mounts to is still solid. The plan is to fix this using 2mm sheet metal or maybe 3-4mm for the bottom plate and then spray the inside cavity with raw linseed oil.

https://i.imgur.com/IqM5Vr8l.png

https://i.imgur.com/qJtMENGl.jpg

[HDS]

I've now welded it up, had to remove the rear axle completely.

Right side, ended up cutting a lot more than shown here.
https://i.imgur.com/DItqXXTh.jpg

New bottom plate with welded nut.
https://i.imgur.com/e0oJx1jh.jpg

2mm sheet metal, painted with zinc primer.

https://i.imgur.com/sfxyEJLh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7xkzrJXh.jpg

Left side

https://i.imgur.com/0PwkH1nh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WAKFaqph.jpg

Used a red primer to start with but switched to the gray zinc primer.

https://i.imgur.com/FF54qCdh.jpg

Also treated the rear axle with penetrating rust treatment (dinitrol ml) and then brushed it with a bitumen/oil based rust proofing agent.
https://i.imgur.com/f0w0gCzh.jpg

The whole underside and cavities are being treated with dinitrol ML right now, then I'll also apply the same bitumen and oil based stuff over that once it has dried.

Car should have a few more years in it now.