B-Spec build Norcal #86

[ysar]

I just turned 50 and my big plan for the milestone was to do a lot of SCCA racing culminating in a trip to the Runoffs at Indy. Well, my knee had something to say about that, and now I'm going to miss a big chunk of the season due to surgery and recovery. Enough about me, let me describe the car.

To begin, I wanted to build a car that was street, race, and rally legal. I also didn't want to spend a lot of money. I considered modifying my Lemons/Chump/LuckyDog Miata, but making it street and rally legal would be expensive. So I decided on B-Spec, and specifically the Yaris because it has the least expensive kit and has been around nearly 10 years.

I purchased the 2007 Yaris for $3040 from a woman who was driving it cross-country from North Carolina to California. I had a racer friend on the other side check it out for me. After taking delivery, I used it as a daily driver for about 6 months, during which time I took it to a few track events where I was doing some coaching. I found it to be a great commuter, getting over 40 mpg, and a surprisingly fun track car even in stock form. I even took it to a rally school (Primitive Rally) where it was one of the faster cars on the course. I really liked the car and part of me really didn't want to do the full B-Spec conversion...

The cage was constructed at a cage-welding class held by master cage-builder Jon Pagel of Evil Genius Racing. He oversaw the operation and did a little welding, but most of it was done by students. In the end, I got the cage built for about 60% of the usual cost. It doesn't yet have the A-pillar vertical bars, so it's not yet fully rally legal, but the rest of the cage meets rally specs. It's probably going to be at least a year before I do stage rally anyway, and in the mean time I can do RallyCross and RallyTrials along with road racing.

The performance mods for a Yaris B-Spec are: (1) suspension (2) exhaust (3) intake (4) tires (5) brake pads. The suspension is a TRD kit that costs about $650. The exhaust is just a 1 minute job with an angle grinder. The intake is optional, and I really don't know if a K&N filter improves much over a paper filter. In any case, all together, I got 101 HP and 105 TQ. It's more than I expected. Wheels and tires are SM-ish: 15x7, 205/15/15, 13+ lb rims, DOT slicks. I've got a set of Toyo RRs, Hoosier SM7s, and RE-71Rs. For rally, I've got steelies and Cooper Weathermasters up front and runflats out back. I'm using EBC Green Stuff for the front pads and something OEM-ish in the rear.

Safety stuff is the usual: seats, harnesses, fire system, kill switch, window net, center net, tow hooks, and various stickers. Other stuff include wide-angle mirror, quick-release steering wheel, fuel sample port, tachometer, extra fire bottle, extra electrical outlets, bluetooth radio, rally lights, and AiM SoloDL. A cool thing about the SoloDL is that it talks CAN bus to the Yaris ECU. It can be quite expensive to set a car up with telemetry, but all cars since 2008 (and sometimes before, like the 2007 Yaris) have loads of sensors and a high speed network built in. The Yaris reports RPM, vehicle speed, individual wheel speeds, steering angle, brake, clutch, throttle, and all sorts of engine stuff. It would cost thousands to put all this stuff in an older car.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/733402/MCE_dyno.png
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/733402/IMG_3039.png
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/733402/IMG_3040.png
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/733402/IMG_3042.png
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/733402/IMG_3045.png

[CoryM]

Welcome! Hope you get lots of events in.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Nice.

You're not too far from me. So I'm assuming you just cut the exhaust off????

Also, I don't think you'll be driving that car on the streets anymore, so why not pull out anything associated with the audio system and do some weight savings?

[Dabuu]

Awesome!! Can't wait to see videos. :)

I wanted to do a B-spec build with mine, but since it's my daily, I'm loosely following the rules, I call it my Wanna-B spec build. lol

[ysar]

Nice.

You're not too far from me. So I'm assuming you just cut the exhaust off????

Also, I don't think you'll be driving that car on the streets anymore, so why not pull out anything associated with the audio system and do some weight savings?

I cut the exhaust off right before the can. I also have a stock exhaust for around town. I have a radio and other comforts so that I can drive to the track. I don't like towing and would argue that it's safer driving this car than my tow rig. The bars are well padded and a long way from my head. The B-Spec weight is 2425 lbs with driver. I actually have to add weight at this point. I'm hoping the cold box will be enough, but if not, I can put a spare tire in as ballast.

[ysar]

Awesome!! Can't wait to see videos. :)

I wanted to do a B-spec build with mine, but since it's my daily, I'm loosely following the rules, I call it my Wanna-B spec build. lol

Here's some video before the build was complete.

https://youtu.be/HJC_P5FpByU

[Kaotic Lazagna]

I cut the exhaust off right before the can. I also have a stock exhaust for around town. I have a radio and other comforts so that I can drive to the track. I don't like towing and would argue that it's safer driving this car than my tow rig. The bars are well padded and a long way from my head. The B-Spec weight is 2425 lbs with driver. I actually have to add weight at this point. I'm hoping the cold box will be enough, but if not, I can put a spare tire in as ballast.

Cold box? What's that?

Didn't realize you still drive the car on the road (didn't think it would be legal due to the roll cage). How much more weight do you have to add to be class legal? Aren't you still adding more to the cage, so that should add some weight. Does the TRD kit you got have the rear sway bar? If not, that should add a few lbs. And good idea about balancing out the weight distribution by the spare tire.

I have no knowledge on track/auto-x racing, btw, so I have no clue what parts are legal and not legal in classes.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Have you replaced the brake lines with SS lines and the brake fluid with something more race oriented like Torque RT700?

[Dabuu]

I wish Toyota offered a better B-spec package like Mazda and Honda. :(

[Jason@SportsCar]

Just a heads up, in the March Fastrack there are a number of rules/spec changes for B Spec. You can now run -3 front camber, previous limit was -2.5.

The Yaris also picked up the K&N intake (full system, not just a drop in filter), and a new suspension package including Bilstein struts and any spring up to 500lbs.

Cold air intake K&N 69-8612TFK is allowed.
Allow Bilstein kit 47-237834

Still not going to be competitive with the other makes, since the Yaris is effectively the only one stuck on a stock ECU tune.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Cold box? What's that?



http://coolshirt.com/motorsports/

[ysar]

Just a heads up, in the March Fastrack there are a number of rules/spec changes for B Spec. You can now run -3 front camber, previous limit was -2.5.

The Yaris also picked up the K&N intake (full system, not just a drop in filter), and a new suspension package including Bilstein struts and any spring up to 500lbs.

Cold air intake K&N 69-8612TFK is allowed.
Allow Bilstein kit 47-237834

Still not going to be competitive with the other makes, since the Yaris is effectively the only one stuck on a stock ECU tune.

The max camber I could get was -2.5. The K&N intake isn't CARB legal, so I can't (honestly) use it in California. So basically my non-competitive B-Spec just got a little less competitive.

[ysar]

Cold box? What's that?

Didn't realize you still drive the car on the road (didn't think it would be legal due to the roll cage). How much more weight do you have to add to be class legal? Aren't you still adding more to the cage, so that should add some weight. Does the TRD kit you got have the rear sway bar? If not, that should add a few lbs. And good idea about balancing out the weight distribution by the spare tire.

I have no knowledge on track/auto-x racing, btw, so I have no clue what parts are legal and not legal in classes.

I'm only 35 lbs under weight. Fuel and tire should do it.

I'm not running the rear ARB because it's not part of the kit.

[Dabuu]

Awesome info Jason!

Now, where to find off the shelf 500lbs lowering springs for the Yaris lol. I'm currently looking for a new suspension set up.

[ysar]

Have you replaced the brake lines with SS lines and the brake fluid with something more race oriented like Torque RT700?

I don't run SS lines in either of my racecars. I do run a high temp brake fluid, but I'm not that picky about brand. There isn't all that much braking in a B-Spec.

[Jason@SportsCar]

The max camber I could get was -2.5. The K&N intake isn't CARB legal, so I can't (honestly) use it in California. So basically my non-competitive B-Spec just got a little less competitive.

Would take you about 10 min at the track to install it.

If you use two sets of SPC bolts (top and bottom hole) you should be able to get -3. This is what I am using, sitting at -3 with more available.

http://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=81270&region=USA&make=Toyota&model=Yaris&year=2012%20-%202017&from=USAFrom&to=USATo

[ysar]

http://coolshirt.com/motorsports/

Coolshirt and FAST are the standards, but I don't actually run their products in my cars. For the Miata, I built the cold box from a large ice cooler and a bilge pump. I needed the capacity to run in 100° weather for 2.5 hours. The Yaris is built for sprint racing, so the cold box can be much smaller. Rather than buy one for racing, I got a cold therapy unit on ebay for about $50. There are lots of brands of choices out there. McMaster-Carr sells fittings if you want to build or modify.

[ysar]

Would take you about 10 min at the track to install it.

If you use two sets of SPC bolts (top and bottom hole) you should be able to get -3. This is what I am using, sitting at -3 with more available.

http://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=81270&region=USA&make=Toyota&model=Yaris&year=2012%20-%202017&from=USAFrom&to=USATo

Thanks Jason. -3 will help tire wear. This year I'm more concerned with learning how to drive FWD. Next year I'll probably focus on performance and upgrade the intake and suspension. Maybe get a fresher motor. I feel like my motor stats are pretty good, but I don't know what a B-Spec Yaris is supposed to make.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

http://coolshirt.com/motorsports/

Always wondered how racers stayed cool in those HOT cabins during a race. Thanks for the info on what it is.



I'm only 35 lbs under weight. Fuel and tire should do it.

I'm not running the rear ARB because it's not part of the kit.

I don't run SS lines in either of my racecars. I do run a high temp brake fluid, but I'm not that picky about brand. There isn't all that much braking in a B-Spec.

So I'm assuming in that class, the rear sway bar would be illegal since it didn't come in the TRD package???

Ah, didn't know not much braking is involved in that class.

[ysar]

So I'm assuming in that class, the rear sway bar would be illegal since it didn't come in the TRD package???.

Each B-Spec build has specific components and the ARB isn't one of those. That's the simple answer. How one designs a kit and then modifies it probably involves discussions with the SCCA. Hopefully Jason will enlighten us...

[Jason@SportsCar]

Each B-Spec build has specific components and the ARB isn't one of those. That's the simple answer. How one designs a kit and then modifies it probably involves discussions with the SCCA. Hopefully Jason will enlighten us...

Toyota had no official interest in supporting B-Spec when the class first came on line - still don't - it gets the same level of support as an other Club Racing class.

Because we were already working with Yaris marketing team we were asked to work with SCCA on the B-Spec program. But with no support, or interest from TMS, there was little to do. Originally the car was going to run in BS nearly stock. We suggested tossing in the already available TRD springs and shocks just to try and lower the car a little, making it less prone to a roll. We did not ask for the rear bar because adding a torsion bar to a stick axle is kind of pointless. You can call it a swaybar if you want, its not, and does not function as such, just cost money and adds weight.

If you take a look at most of the other BS kits they are all adopting the Mazda/CorkSport "rear bar", which is also not a swaybar, its tube with tie rod ends they use to bend the axle to adjust toe. You can accomplish the same thing with shims on the rear axle.

Recently a new BS committee was formed, the previous one was made up of manufacturer reps, the new one is racers. The new committee wants to speed the class up, so they started opening up the restrictor plates on the fast cars (Honda, Kia, Mini, Chevy), and giving things like a CAI to the slower cars. The Mazda2 also got a header. All of these changes are just leaving the Yaris further behind due to the lack of an ECU reflash - and they wont allow a piggyback.

At the 2011 Runoffs they invited all of the manufacturers that had built BS cars to bring them for a demo race. We shipped out one of the cars we had used for a Sony Play Station program (built to BS trim), we were very disappointed to find out the "demo race" was five laps behind a pace car. :mad: We spent the money to ship the car and expected it to race, so we started looking at other options... Since BS was not yet a class, we could only field the car in H Prod or Showroom Stock C. We found an SSC driver that had engine problems in qual, and let him run the Yaris - giving us the first BS car to compete at the Runoffs.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6170/6188419035_f267d0c266_z.jpg

[Kaotic Lazagna]

So many weird guidelines.

I felt that the RSB was the only bar that actually made a difference (was surprised cuz I was thinking the same you were about the torsion beam). But I don't race my cars, and only have on and off ramps to base any suspension changes effects off of. LOL.

[ern-diz]

To clarify, you guys are saying the TRD, Whiteline, or some other flavor of quote/unquote rear sway bar, has no impact? Only costs money and adds weight?

[Jason@SportsCar]

To clarify, you guys are saying the TRD, Whiteline, or some other flavor of quote/unquote rear sway bar, has no impact? Only costs money and adds weight?

That is what I am saying. There is no interface between the bar and the chassis, there is no way for it to counter roll. Without some type of connection from the suspension to the chassis the bar can not do its job. All it does is stiffen up the rear beam, that is not what a swaybar does. This is a supplement for soft rear springs, nothing more. Put in the right spring and shock package and you can ditch that piece of steel.

I have only seen one attempt to build and install a proper rear swaybar (speedway style bar attached to the chassis and the axle) on a Yaris, and I think he ended up removing it.

But a lot of people like to believe it transforms the car... There are also a lot of people that think a front strut tower brace makes a huge difference. The front strut towers are inches away from the firewall, and the tops of the struts are mounted in 2" think rubber donuts, no way that bar does a thing. And then there are grounding kit fanbois. When it comes to bolt on accessories it seems like if someone will build it, someone will buy it.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

That is what I am saying. There is no interface between the bar and the chassis, there is no way for it to counter roll. Without some type of connection from the suspension to the chassis the bar can not do its job. All it does is stiffen up the rear beam, that is not what a swaybar does. This is a supplement for soft rear springs, nothing more. Put in the right spring and shock package and you can ditch that piece of steel.

I have only seen one attempt to build and install a proper rear swaybar (speedway style bar attached to the chassis and the axle) on a Yaris, and I think he ended up removing it.

But a lot of people like to believe it transforms the car... There are also a lot of people that think a front strut tower brace makes a huge difference. The front strut towers are inches away from the firewall, and the tops of the struts are mounted in 2" think rubber donuts, no way that bar does a thing. And then there are grounding kit fanbois. When it comes to bolt on accessories it seems like if someone will build it, someone will buy it.

The front sway bar, and those under body chassis bars didn't really do anything for me, mainly just aesthetics. The NST light weight pulley didn't do anything either for me.

Grounding kits? Like for those with big audio systems?

[Jason@SportsCar]

In theory a solid rear axle (which the twist beam would qualify as) stays parallel with the road surface, the body of the car rolls as the suspension loads. You can combat the roll with springs, shocks or bars. But for any of them to work they have to interface with the chassis and suspension. You can bolt all the stuff to the axle you want, unless you attach the other end to the chassis so it can control the body all you are doing is making it stiffer and heavier.

Here is a very basic 1st gen CRX rear bar.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x155/kedelbach/CRX%20and%20RC%20Stuff/2011%20Winter%20CRX%20work/CRXaddco3.jpg

Even the minivan guys have figured this out.

http://www.grumpsplace.com/images/auto/tc2001-rearsway-oyeah-l.jpg

Or you can bolt multiple bars to the beam like this guy, it still not a swaybar, its still not controlling roll. #carshowpoints

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk134/JBKBS/2009%20Corolla%20S/DSC06196.jpg

[ysar]

Well, they could always reduce the weight of the Yaris to make it more competitive. How do we petition such a change?

[Jason@SportsCar]

Well, they could always reduce the weight of the Yaris to make it more competitive. How do we petition such a change?

Just submit a letter: www.crbscca.com

Keep in mind letters submitted without any data (race results) don't get much attention, they want to see the cars run in the current spec before they typically offer changes.

[ern-diz]

Man, thank you, Jason. Not only was that an interesting lesson, but I feel like I owe you a percentage of the $200 dollars I would have wasted on a part I was planning on buying.

Scratching that off the list!

[Jason@SportsCar]

Man, thank you, Jason. Not only was that an interesting lesson, but I feel like I owe you a percentage of the $200 dollars I would have wasted on a part I was planning on buying.

Scratching that off the list!

A good set of coil overs will do so much more for the car.

[tmontague]

Agreed with Jason that the RSW doesn't connect to the suspension so it is not a true sway bar and therefore all it does is stiffen up the rear torsion beam.

That said, I opted for the rsw and coils (and eventually sport shocks/struts) because it was much cheaper then to run a good set of coil overs. A good quality set of CO's will run you over a grand and would be very much worth it had I been planning on using this car for the track. But for a DD and potential autoX car there was no sense in dropping that amount of money when I could do it for less.

The TRD rsw definitely makes a difference and allowed me to run softer springs in the rear so the ride isn't too harsh and control the amount of understeer the soft rear springs cause relative to the front.

If you have the cash and need to adjustment, definitely go with CO's, but if you want a DD and don't need to adjustment or plan or spending bits here and there then the rsw may be a better fit. All comes down to the use of the car

[NYC-SE]

Don't want to hijack this thread re rear "sway bar" but...

Yes it is true that this is not a true sway bar, it is essentially a brace to stiffen up the rear axle. But I must take exception with the statement that it "doesn't do anything". I had my car for 6 months before I installed a TRD rear sway bar so I think I had a good feel for how it drove. After I installed it the difference in handling was immediately apparent. Now I'm not saying it suddenly felt like I was driving a Porsche, but the car definitely felt more stable in the corners and seemed less twitchy all around.

No I do not have any data to back up those claims, I don't have any telemetry showing g-forces in corners or improved speed thru the twisties, only my subjective experience. And understand that I am not on a track, just the public roads, on stock suspension, but for those applications I feel the RSW "works" and is the best money I spent on this car.

Could it simply be the placebo effect? Possible but I don't think so. Over the years I have convinced my self on numerous occasions that this or that new product would be so much better than the current version that I owned. Rarely if ever was that true. I have spent many thousands of dollars in pursuit of better (mostly on musical and audio gear) only to realize after the fact that I should have saved my money. My point is I recognize the placebo effect and find it rarely applicable in my case.

Long story short, I'm keeping my TRD rear sway bar.

[Dabuu]

The only reason I'm running the rsb is because I couldn't find any off the shelf springs with stiff rates. I wanted my car to rotate more, and what better way to do that than to prevent the torsion beam from twisting. At least that's what makes sense in my mind. :laugh:

I recently ordered my coilovers with 7kg/5kg rates mainly because it's my daily, so the rsb might have to stay as 5kg still isn't stiff lol.