Blitz

[ncp13]

The time has come to get Blitzed .

A friend offered to give his blitZ and I could not resist...

I am reading a lot of threads and try to do it once and right with all the knowledge aquired.

I have a complete setup with the clutch and fuel controler. I am only missing the switch selection plate for the compressor modes and the clutch on light.

What is your opinion for the 14point7 fuel controler?

Should I leave the stock one or go another way?

Thank you :smile:

[ncp13]

The compressor was painted black which was coming off.. I had to clean it up with solvent wire brushes and a lot of patience .

[MugenRep]

Looks good! Can't wait to see it installed. I'm a big fan of Roots blowers for their nice linear power and ability to make a tiny displacement engine feel much bigger.

[ecampos]

Nice! I wish I could get one!

[Lightrfire]

I bought a spare switch from crankoldman. I'm not sure if he has more but it may be worth asking. Before I bought one from him Iwas considering a zen programmable throttle switch which would work the same.

[CrankyOldMan]

It's a bit of an old thread, but I'll add my 2 bits. I doubt I've got another complete switch setup, but I can look again.

I've got a diagram of the selector switch itself around here somewhere, but not the small box it connects to. The selector is just some resistors that change the voltage to a comparator circuit. The activation LED is tied to the output of the comparator, so it turns on whenever the throttle position signal goes above the threshold set by the selector switch. Sounds more complicated than it is. If you can solder, you can make your own switch out of whatever you've got handy.

[ncp13]

Thank you all for the replies :biggrin:
I am just missing the graphics part of it . I have the switch itself .
I also made a 3mm teflon spacer - gasket for the intake manifold to keep away some heat from the all aluminum intake.

My kit has a boost gauge/ turbo timer setup but i really dont want to use it ...

Slowly getting there ,keeping it stock and ready for some 38c Greek summer driving :laugh:..

Everything else will be stock with the vehicle .. For now i guess :thumbsup:

[ncp13]

What spark plugs do i have to run?

[MugenRep]

IK22 are the correct heat range. The IK22 is a 7 heat range, which is what you want for a colder plug with a boosted application.

As for the gap, insufficient spark plug gap can cause pre-ignition, detonation, even engine damage. Too much gap can result in a higher rate of misfires, noticeable loss of power, plug fouling, and poor economy. With that being said first thing to do before you install the plugs is to check the gap to make sure its correct as it's not uncommon that they aren't properly gapped from the factory.

[DarkShadowFox]

does anyone even have the supercharger for sale anymore? besides the 3k entry price :C

[MugenRep]

does anyone even have the supercharger for sale anymore? besides the 3k entry price :C

Try your hand at producing your own.

-Buy a Aisin AMR500 or AMR300, perhaps even a SC12 or SC14
-Remove AC and make a bracket that fits that area
-Play, experiment, fabricate and brainstorm

[DarkShadowFox]

Try your hand at producing your own.

-Buy a Aisin AMR500 or AMR300, perhaps even a SC12 or SC14
-Remove AC and make a bracket that fits that area
-Play, experiment, fabricate and brainstorm

I have an idea of what I need, can you break me down a parts list I love DIY.

[DarkShadowFox]

Try your hand at producing your own.

-Buy a Aisin AMR500 or AMR300, perhaps even a SC12 or SC14
-Remove AC and make a bracket that fits that area
-Play, experiment, fabricate and brainstorm

wow these are really cheap.

can I just relocated the AC compressor with a longer belt assembly or something custom?

[DarkShadowFox]

Try your hand at producing your own.

-Buy a Aisin AMR500 or AMR300, perhaps even a SC12 or SC14
-Remove AC and make a bracket that fits that area
-Play, experiment, fabricate and brainstorm
I have kinda want to fab one of those overhead "Turbo 2000" intercoolers. like on the vios

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

[DarkShadowFox]

how do you feel about one of these with the

http://www.ecrater.com/p/23061250/91-95-toyota-mr2-intercooler-kit?gps=1&id=81021731659

SC14? or the AMR500?

[MugenRep]

I have an idea of what I need, can you break me down a parts list I love DIY.

Every application is going to be different and it comes down to what you're capable of doing yourself or if not, farming out to a independent or friend.

I'd say this is a good sample list.....

- flat steel stock 8mm-12mm in thickness. This would be to make the bracket that helps to keep the supercharger secure.

- AMR300, AMR500, SC12, SC14, or even an Eaton m45 (I'd personally do a AMR500, albeit a little smaller than the Blitz Ogura TX12, it'd be easy to intercool).

- new injectors at minimum (1ZZ at minimum).

- some sort of A/F management (AEM FIC, Emanage Blue, CamCon c-101, etc.).

- input and output flanges for AMR300/AMR500 and piping for intercooler or not.

- bypass valve that recirculates.

- new serpentine belt since the AC clutched pulley is bigger than the supercharger pulley.

- MAF adapter possibly or intake and filter if not using stock airbox.

- Various other items to be thought up and engineered by yourself.

wow these are really cheap.

can I just relocated the AC compressor with a longer belt assembly or something custom?

You'll have to get it and test fit it as well as take measurements and determine the easiest way to mount and run it.

*Make sure supercharger pulley is STRAIGHT and in line with other pulleys as this is the MOST IMPORTANT part to making it reliable and not causing it to shred belts left and right.


I have kinda want to fab one of those overhead "Turbo 2000" intercoolers. like on the vios

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

Top mount or side mount intercooler would work pretty easily and there are tons of tiny/inexpensive intercoolers out there. Go for it.:thumbsup:

how do you feel about one of these with the

http://www.ecrater.com/p/23061250/91-95-toyota-mr2-intercooler-kit?gps=1&id=81021731659

SC14? or the AMR500?

I'd do the AMR500 personally and then slowly work off from that adding parts as you go with test fitting and such. It may be even easier to go down to your local "PICK N' PART" to buy a spare 1NZ-FE and have that someplace to use as the item to test mount on. Should make everything a bit easier.

[DarkShadowFox]

Every application is going to be different and it comes down to what you're capable of doing yourself or if not, farming out to a independent or friend.

I'd say this is a good sample list.....

- flat steel stock 8mm-12mm in thickness. This would be to make the bracket that helps to keep the supercharger secure.

- AMR300, AMR500, SC12, SC14, or even an Eaton m45 (I'd personally do a AMR500, albeit a little smaller than the Blitz Ogura TX12, it'd be easy to intercool).

- new injectors at minimum (1ZZ at minimum).

- some sort of A/F management (AEM FIC, Emanage Blue, CamCon c-101, etc.).

- input and output flanges for AMR300/AMR500 and piping for intercooler or not.

- bypass valve that recirculates.

- new serpentine belt since the AC clutched pulley is bigger than the supercharger pulley.

- MAF adapter possibly or intake and filter if not using stock airbox.

- Various other items to be thought up and engineered by yourself.



You'll have to get it and test fit it as well as take measurements and determine the easiest way to mount and run it.

*Make sure supercharger pulley is STRAIGHT and in line with other pulleys as this is the MOST IMPORTANT part to making it reliable and not causing it to shred belts left and right.




Top mount or side mount intercooler would work pretty easily and there are tons of tiny/inexpensive intercoolers out there. Go for it.[emoji106]



I'd do the AMR500 personally and then slowly work off from that adding parts as you go with test fitting and such. It may be even easier to go down to your local "PICK N' PART" to buy a spare 1NZ-FE and have that someplace to use as the item to test mount on. Should make everything a bit easier.
150 HP. little dependability interferance

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

[DarkShadowFox]

so what ive read up on the AMR500 literally just looks like a bolt on job, is it oilless? purely just pump? cause in most of the installs looks like its just bolted on and hooked up to a pully.

EDIT: Looks like this is a supercharger that you have to oil but doesnt require an oil line, lots of really just bolting things up and getting a controller and some of the other parts that you had mentions, while were on that since this is going to be a bit of a step by step, are the 1zz injects just a swap in?

edit: is the flow rate of a 1zz injector 250? 1nzfe 210? AEM FIC piggyback and a lightweight pully system?

[ncp13]

The install is complete.!

I used a Gates 6PK1678 belt that fits corolla 120 3zz and made a 4 rib belt. 12e. It comes also in 6PK1670 which I think will be my next try because I get a squeal at 5500rpm :tongue:

Today I got a P0171 .

I checked for vacuum leaks.. nothing..
Long term fuel trim 30 at idle 0 coast -7 when I floor it..

My injectors are 23250-21020 stock 1nz I assume. My fuel pressure was checked before the instalation and the injetor o-rings replaced during the install..

[ncp13]

Small update..

Vacuum leaks and more vacuum leaks. :wink:

The previous owner had thick permanite compressor gaskets made and i made copies with the same material... Bad move .. The material is too thick .

Made some new ones myself with gasket paper and will install tomorrow. ..
Should i cut off that damn aluminum c section on the valve cover that protects the fuel rail? Its in the way :laugh:

[ncp13]

Vacuum leaks fixed with Toyota Black seal packing and no gaskets..

I tried the paper ones I made without luck.. and then the seal packing came to the rescue .. I am up to 5 times R/R the charger unit.. Dam..:biggrin:
I am getting good at it.

Now of to find a good belt as the Gates 6PK1678 at full tension squeals.
I will try their 1670 or maybe source a 4PK1675 if I am lucky.

[ncp13]

Update on the belt slip.

I tighten about a turn at a time until I have a minor squeal at about 6100 which is fine for me.. I will leave it at that .

The 6PK1670 at the current adjustment leaves aboout 15mm on the bottom of the tensioner bolt so there is still some adjustment left. I will search for a 1665 lenght belt and see :)

The power is pretty linear with a flat spot around 5200 rpm and then a hard pull till redline. I have to datalog a few runs and attach a boost gauge to see whats going on .

Also there is a hessitation if the kompressor gets activated with the engine cold . I have to datalog that too..

I am still with the stock spark plugs, I will try the 20 range and see.:thumbsup:

[ncp13]

Did the colder spark plugs.

I reset the ECU and the car felt more responsive.. hmm :confused:

I installed the blitz timer boost gauge contraption that came with the kit and I verified 0.52 hkPa which is around 7.2 psi.. cool.. I hate the looks of that dam little thing and its coming off.. I did not care for the timer either..

Any tips or advice ?

[MugenRep]

Love all the updates! Keep them up!

[ncp13]

Update

Yesterday taking off from low rpm and getting on boost I heard a little pinging..
It was 36C outside temp and just got off the highway. Regular 95 octane fuel was used..

Should I try the 22 heat range spark plugs? :wink:

[ncp13]

Finally we got turbo weather here in Greece.

8C at night 15C during the day.. :laugh:

The car is super responsive.. I cant convince myself to do the blue emanage yet.

It does feel restricted at high rpms. (stock intake, exhaust etc..) and then it sqeels at about 6k rpm..

I want to find 6 rib pulleys for my Ac/wp/crank/Blitz compressor to do away with the sqeal . Does anybody know of any models that I can get the from? ex Camry , avalon etc?

[CrankyOldMan]

The problem you will have is finding a pulley for the compressor. It uses a spline connection instead of the more common taper and key style. I was never able to find one that would fit, so you might have to make something custom.

It's definitely restricted by the stock exhaust. Even with a CAI, 1ZZ throttle body and custom intake plumbing mine would die off above ~5500. Belt squeal is only controllable by tightening the accessory belt, but that puts extra strain on your bearings/pulleys on the accessory loop and can shear off the bolt on the far side of the intake plenum. Yes, I broke pretty much all of those things on mine.

[ncp13]

For the compressor inguess i have to find another ac/clutch pulley for 6 rib..

I will try to free up cat and the rest of the system but with somthing quiet .. I hate unecessary noise polution .. I guess i am getting old and cranky too :biggrin:

:thumbsup:

[thebarber]

Use 1zzfe injectors if you aren't already

[Gorilla]

Good updates mate. Mines still going well after a couple of years but i really want more...I need more power lol...Can not find a pulley to suit :(

[ncp13]

Happy new Year yall !

I decided to free up the exhaust flow one piece at a time. Since an internal combustion engine is an air pump and i stuffed about 30% more in to it i should do somthing with the catalytic converter. I will make a pipe with a universal cat for a 2.0 vehicle and i will see how it goes :) .

The belt squeal is anoying and thats next on the agenda.

Btw does the s/c pulley comes apart easy? Anyone with pictures of it apart?

:thumbsup: