Average mileage for OEM wheel bearings

[tmontague]

Obviously this will greatly vary since we all drive in different climates with varying road condition. I'm curious as to what mileage many of you guys have gotten out of your oem wheel bearing?

2 days ago I just started noticing a vibration under very hard cornering only from the rear left wheel. No other symptoms or noises and no signs of rubbing ox tires issues. It feel like the rear left tire is flat and I'm riding on the edge of the rim over a bumpy surface. I can make this happen in corners by swinging the rear out (understeer and then oversteer). No noises are heard though, just the strong vibration.

I'm at 182k km now so not too shabby by any means if I do need new bearings. Especially since the conditions I drive in and how bad the roads are in Hamilton Ont.

I'm thinking of going with a MOOG replacement assembly on RockAuto ($179 CAD) comes with a 3 years warranty. Beats paying $240+13% tax from my local Parts Source for it.

[Rigaud]

2009 2 door hatchback, 120,000km it started and this car rarely came out winters. Yaris are known for bearings wearing out at lower km's.
My girlfriends Mazda 3 has 251,000 and one side needs replacing.
My 1998 Subaru LGT has 290,000km and still OEM not ever replaced.
My 2002 Audi |A4 Avant same thing at 291,000km original bearings.

[WeeYari]

2006 HB with 302,000 km and original bearings still good.

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[Bluevitz-rs]

'05 one driver's side bearing at 175000

[tmontague]

Thanks for the in put guys. Seems I could be due for a wheel bearing to go and it isn't out of the norm for the Yaris.

I quickly raised my rear when I got home from an exam and the left wheel has zero sign of play or any issues/binding when turning. The wheels also were properly torqued. I guess it's still possibly a wheel bearing as some can be almost asymptomatic and still be on their way out, but nothing yet other than the original issue is showing any signs. Still zero signs of any type of rubbing or damage to anything. I pulled on the shocks and nothing was loose or making any noises.

I'll pull both rear wheels tomorrow and I'll check the left hub with the wheel and drum off and see how it spins. Also I'm going to check the hub bolt torque.

Let me know if you guys have any other ideas.

[vwhugger]

My 2008 Yaris has 294,000 miles on it and I've never replaced the wheel bearings or for that matter, any other thing in the drivetrain. Same with my my 2012, which has 180,000 miles on it. Just normal stuff like spark plugs, brakes and serpentine belts have been replaced.

[SirDigby]

in my experience, Timken are the best! idk if they make a hub assembly though. i'll have to see what i can find...

[SirDigby]

oooooooo they do! that's what i'd get...

[SirDigby]

carparts.com has them for 42.35 usd. for ABS. non-abs even cheaper...

[tmontague]

Don't you have to be a mechanic to buy from carparts?

[SirDigby]

nah. it's an online store. idk about Canadian shipping...

[tmontague]

it's no worries, I have a US PO box. I got it mixed up with car-part.com

I ended up finding MOOG bearings off of Ebay from a Texas seller for about $100 USD each which is a great price. Beat RockAuto by quite a bit

[tmontague]

Update:

I removed the wheels this evening and spun the bearings and there didn't seem to be any issues with them. They didn't spin freely but that's expected in a car with 182k km on it. I then removed the hub (took 30 mins and had to McGyver a hub puller to un seize them) once I had the hubs in my hand and spun them I could feel some crunchiness to the left one especially and even aslightly to the right one.

I swapped them on opposite sides and went driving. I still have the same vibration in the left under hard cornering but it seems slightly better. This makes sense considering both hubs are on their way out but the left one was worse

I'll update this once I get around to installing new hubs, hopefully the vibration will be gone.

[SirDigby]

i thought they were bolt in. why the puller? is it just from corrosion?

[tmontague]

The hub was seized to the dust shield so bad and there isn't a way to really leverage it out or even use an air hammer. If only the factory used anti seize...

The dust shield/hub fell off the axle when I removed the bolts since I have anti seized it when installed my Penguin axle spacers last summer, but I never removed the hub from the dust shield then as it was seized.

There is a great video on YouTube of a guy showing you how to make your own puller for cheap with some bolts and washers. He used it to do his rear hub on his toyota minivan.

[zoidberg444]

130,000 miles on my shitbox so far and still on all original wheel bearings. Hopefully i haven't jinxed it. :laugh:

[mimelio]

What ever you do DO NOT UNDER CIRCUMSTANCES GET A BRAND OF BEARING CALLED DETROIT AXLE...You will see them super cheap and they only last about a year. I had a passenger rear start making noise at 60,000 and I replaced it with an Genuine Toyota Bearing

[zoidberg444]

I thought the OEM bearings were made by Koyo were pretty much the best available as far as bearings go for automotive use?

Maybe its the salt and grit on the roads in the northern hemisphere that kill them early?

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[fnkngrv]

Had to replace both sides at around 90k.

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[tmontague]

Just an update. I swapped in new bearings and the vibration was still there. It turned out to be my drivers side axle which is but it's maximum compression since the 2zr is wider. When I turn hard, the wheel is pushed in causing the axle to shorten. Because it already is maximally compressed it starts to push the engine and trans instead which causes a vibration as the axle rotates.

My bearings were starting to get crunchy and the rear wheels soon better now so it wasn't a total waste. The bearing would have likely only lasted another 10-20k km before they started making noise

[SirDigby]

huh. good to know!