Can I run my yaris with just the radiator up front but not have to delete the a.c.

[Pizzaboyracer]

Some one hit my car and I got a new radiator because the middle support bent mine can I just do the radiator and delete the a.c. condenser because mine is bent and mite not bolt up to new radiator

Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

[SirDigby]

yeah. why wouldn't you be able to? you can also remove the compressor and hoses and buy a shorter belt. that's like -10lbs.

[Pizzaboyracer]

I'm on a road trip and trying to just leave the belt the way it is till I get home I just have to delete the evaporator because it's bent

Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

[Pizzaboyracer]

I rigged it for now no leaks a.c. still works I just need it gone for the room https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170620/4b17ba72ab129f8ab9f3b2b5d5a91bdc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170620/c0d5e1dc1ce31ad335c5effac1006cdf.jpg

Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

[zoidberg444]

I ran mine on a 6500 mile road trip and another 13,000 miles commuting with a busted up front end. Bent radiator/evaporator. Went fine. I repaired it with a donor from the scrap. I replaced the rad just in case it burst and stranded me, i think i could have gotten away with reusing the evaporator. The evaporator wasn't as bad. It only clips on to the front of your radiator. You might get away with replacing the damaged body work and radiator and your evaporator might be fine. The front frame is designed to crumple to protect them. You might want to leave it all connected up to stop any contamination getting into your AC lines/compressor in case you want to repair it later for minimal cost/trouble.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[Pizzaboyracer]

My upper and lower support look in touched it's just the middle one bent in a lil ware she backed in to me I'm just going to pull it out and put new radiator in it but was just unsure if I it would all bolt back up strait car is running fine no leaks a.c. works I'm going to fix when I get home should be ok got new radiator over nighted to me just don't think I have the tools to do it and shops have been one of two was I tell them what I want and they say no or make up a crazy number

Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

[zoidberg444]

I did a similar repair on my car a few months ago along with some other work. I did a thread about it. (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58345)

It isn't to bad of a job. Getting the bumper off is a few clips on top, from under the wheel arch into the wing and of course there are clips which hold it both sides. You do have to sort of dismantle how the splash panel underneath which is in two parts attaches to everything, its a pain to do once things get brittle, loose and corroded. The lower support has a big heavy piece of black plastic attached to it which the splash panel attaches two in places and the two splash panels in the wheel arches have to be detached which is a few clips and a bolt or two underneath.

The slam panel on top is 3 bolts each side 10mm which go into the side supports. Same 3 bolts into the lower support if i remember. The rad and evaporator are retained by rubber bungs which fit snugly into some holes into the lower support and the slam panel on top.

You can drain the coolant out of the radiator with the petcock at the base. I slip a hose on to it so i can collect it in a bottle and reuse it. Take the radiator cap off so it drains better once it started draining. Its about 2.5 litres that comes out. That will empty the rad and the hoses. You get a decent set of pliers to get the hose clamps off. The evaporator clips on to the rad at the top and seats in retainers at the bottom. Likewise the assembly with the fan and overflow bottle clips onto the radiator and there is a plug for the fan and some clips to retain the wire for it.

Basic hand tools. Most things on Toyota full stop are 10mm, 12mm, 14mm for sockets. It is kind of fiddly because of all the plastic which is held together by fragile clips and stuff but its not to bad. I managed.

[Pizzaboyracer]

Yea it's touched so light it's nuts but I just want to say thanks I seen the pics of how yours was hit and your rebuild I'm going to do some of mine too I case it happens to any one else I plan on hits pulling the middle support out a haif inch then just putting the new radiator and reuse what I can and chalk the rest up to weight reduction I all so plan to drill some holes in the bottom splash shelid thing because water pools there after it rains and I just don't like the idea of it

Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

[Pizzaboyracer]

Do I need to like plug the two lines on the bottom for the transmission it's a auto

Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

[zoidberg444]

Do I need to like plug the two lines on the bottom for the transmission it's a auto

Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk
Oh shit. You know i forgot you guys drive automatics, mine is a 5 speed manual. Yes. I'd stop them up or pinch them off to minimize your fluid loss. I'd get some ATF so you can top it off afterwards because you will loose some doing it.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[Pizzaboyracer]

Yea I'll just find two small clamps and stop them up i don't think air should become problem like it gets in the line

Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

[zoidberg444]

Yea I'll just find two small clamps and stop them up i don't think air should become problem like it gets in the line

Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk
My guess is once you run the car after the job is done the fluid should circulate through the cooler and purge the air out anyway. But it will certainly cut down on the mess.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk