View Full Version : Removing paneling back hatchback permanently
Pinchlite
07-14-2017, 04:03 PM
This stuff is starting to rattle lately and was thinking of removing as to solve the annoying noise permenently.I was wondering if road noise would be greatly louder?
I was also considering drilling hole/s and filling with expansion foam to eliminate panel rattles.
I find it extremly annoying and it drives me bloody nuts and angry.
P.S I dont care what the interior looks like as long as no rattles are present.
P.S#2 its not the hatchback door or tirecover or whats underneath 100% sure.
dogsridewith
07-14-2017, 06:56 PM
broken stretched missing clips or claws? anywhere can put somefer screws?
Pinchlite
07-14-2017, 10:27 PM
I was thinking of that.I may get some really long screws with big washers and screw panels down tight.I will be removing panels totally tomorrow to see what and where to drill holes into metal for screws.I couldint care less how it looks aslong as the noise stops.Its to the point where I dont even want to drive the car its that annoying.
kimona
07-14-2017, 11:10 PM
Run foam tape all around the perimeter of the panel and reinstall.
Pinchlite
07-15-2017, 08:50 AM
Run foam tape all around the perimeter of the panel and reinstall.
I just happen to have a roll of that around,maybe 1/2'' thick and fairly wide.I will do that and then fasten down with screws.
Alain93
07-17-2017, 09:51 PM
I just happen to have a roll of that around,maybe 1/2'' thick and fairly wide.I will do that and then fasten down with screws.
Take pics if you can, thanks :)
Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk
Pinchlite
07-18-2017, 08:11 AM
Take pics if you can, thanks :)
Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk
Didnt help any.I will be removing every piece of plastic this weekend to see if noise goes away.If it does then I will leave all the plastic out and consider it fixed.I dont care how the back interior looks as long as the car is drivable without going crazy with rattling.
The road noise may be louder but that does not annoy me.
Pinchlite
07-21-2017, 06:44 AM
Run foam tape all around the perimeter of the panel and reinstall.
Removing panels and test driving did not help.Not side panels for sure.However if I close tailgate oneclick,not totally locked down there is no rattle.The sound is definitly plastic on plastc or metsl on plastic.
I think it is the tailgate hinges or something else.I took panel off tailgate door and looked inside for tattles but could not find anything.
I drive with door not totally locked down for know and much more pleasant.
dogsridewith
07-21-2017, 10:21 AM
that's odd. what else is there? might try driving w/o hatch struts? is latch mechanism now a possible source? (the lamp switch it contains is a mystery to me...was looking for a way to mod to switch off lamp w/ hatch open, then found a 1w LED bulb and quit concern for it.)
FunctionSpec
07-21-2017, 11:52 AM
However if I close tailgate oneclick,not totally locked down there is no rattle.The sound is definitly plastic on plastc or metsl on plastic.
Check the hatchback lift strut mounts. There is an issue with them breaking on the older hatchbacks. Mine broke on the right side and I used a fix that I found on the forum. Left side is starting to go, spot welds are stretching and the hatch lift strut hits up against the body of the car and rattles like crazy. Only solution I found for the time being until they snap off is to put a gob of silicone grease.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57327&highlight=strut+mount
ern-diz
07-21-2017, 06:50 PM
For a guy with what I would consider having mild OCD, I never trip on the squeaks and creaks cars make. I guess I just assume that moving down the road at +75 mph, stuff is always going to move around. I would expect less in a more expensive car, but I guess I just accepted it when buying a Yaris.
Having said that, ten years in and I don't find my Yaris making all that much noise. Mostly the back spare cover when going over really rough terrain, as well as little bit of bouncing from that big hard plastic dash.
Pinchlite
07-22-2017, 07:09 AM
Check the hatchback lift strut mounts. There is an issue with them breaking on the older hatchbacks. Mine broke on the right side and I used a fix that I found on the forum. Left side is starting to go, spot welds are stretching and the hatch lift strut hits up against the body of the car and rattles like crazy. Only solution I found for the time being until they snap off is to put a gob of silicone grease.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57327&highlight=strut+mount
The right side one does kinda click sound when wiggling back forth.The mounts are rock solid though.The seal must be worn?
This could be the problem as it kinda makes the sound I am hearing.It would sound different with hatch closed of couese.It aslo explains why I dont hear it when hatch is up,or decoupled.Would this be good for 50 bucks canadian?
https://www.amazon.ca/TOYOTA-2005-2011-Tailgate-Support-Damper/dp/B01H0KQ3AI/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1500720570&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=yaris+liftgate+lift+support
Pinchlite
07-22-2017, 07:13 AM
For a guy with what I would consider having mild OCD, I never trip on the squeaks and creaks cars make. I guess I just assume that moving down the road at +75 mph, stuff is always going to move around. I would expect less in a more expensive car, but I guess I just accepted it when buying a Yaris.
Having said that, ten years in and I don't find my Yaris making all that much noise. Mostly the back spare cover when going over really rough terrain, as well as little bit of bouncing from that big hard plastic dash.
I have went over entire car and solved every rattle in the car,dash,doors and my back cover does not rattle or move period.I modded the back by scrrewing down the back containers that are beside the spare tire and the rear seats are complety removed along with all seat belt hardware.This started about 2 weeks ago.I drive with door not locked down,single click and problem is gone.I also have nothing unsecured in the car or loose.I cant stand any noises as it drives my absolutely nuts.The only thing that rattles slightly is the front windows over rougher bumps when slightly rolled down but that I can live with.
Pinchlite
07-22-2017, 07:21 AM
that's odd. what else is there? might try driving w/o hatch struts? is latch mechanism now a possible source? (the lamp switch it contains is a mystery to me...was looking for a way to mod to switch off lamp w/ hatch open, then found a 1w LED bulb and quit concern for it.)
Lamp switch??I modded my back with toggle and led bar.Super bright as the stock was useless.
http://i.imgur.com/D5Bp6OA.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zewYqZL.jpg
dogsridewith
07-22-2017, 09:51 AM
I replaced one hatch strut. Under 30. USD w/ short wait at a local Advanced Auto Parts. (Toyota parts counter guy said "It's expensive" before looking up--140.) Looks just like original. (I think brand is OEM?) left and right same part #, but different # for rear wiper cars. Existing struts marked L and R. (so the rod is rotated right for quick assembly?)
Pinchlite
07-22-2017, 12:45 PM
I replaced one hatch strut. Under 30. USD w/ short wait at a local Advanced Auto Parts. (Toyota parts counter guy said "It's expensive" before looking up--140.) Looks just like original. (I think brand is OEM?) left and right same part #, but different # for rear wiper cars. Existing struts marked L and R. (so the rod is rotated right for quick assembly?)
Not hatch strut rattling afterall.When fully compressed with door closed there is no way for it to rattle.Back door panel is off and inspected.On the bottom middle of door is a latch assembly silver in metal parts.This mechanism is loose but is desighned this way.Again its a plsatic on metal noise or plastic on plastic.I have driven with all plastic removed and still noise.I will have to tear down entire back removing everything except what keeps the car running to see what it is.Its enough to make me want to sell car and never buy a yaris again.I really cant drive it and dont unless absolutely necessary.And when I do I unlatch/decouple the door latch and drive it like that.I may have to take to dealer and see if they can find the issue.
FunctionSpec
07-22-2017, 03:16 PM
Check these two points. Mounts can feel sold but if not completely flush against the liftback, the strut will rub against the body when closed (I used rubber pads to stop the rubbing but the struts tore right through them). You'll see wear marks on the body. There's only a small amount of clearance.
dogsridewith
07-22-2017, 06:31 PM
what about the bit of play between the four balls and the four sockets of the two struts? post said hinges were checked. one looks a bit rusty dry. a hinge rattle got me to do front struts and LCA ball joints on my 91 Corolla, but last rattle is still there...75 % sure it is driver's door hinge(s)...only door that can be moved up and down a bit when opened(by lifting up and down at the latch end of the door). in fact, could make rattle go away by holding door open a few inches.
what about play somewhere inside a hatch strut? with as much as has been done tracing this, why not some driving w/ no struts. Warning! Something like a broomstick handle will get used here to hold the hatch open (as with replacing one weak strut). If it slips out at the wrong time, the hatch could crush a hand or head or something.
Pinchlite
07-22-2017, 07:48 PM
Check these two points. Mounts can feel sold but if not completely flush against the liftback, the strut will rub against the body when closed (I used rubber pads to stop the rubbing but the struts tore right through them). You'll see wear marks on the body. There's only a small amount of clearance.
I looked that over and no aparent chaffing.The mounts are a bit rusted but solid and not pried away.
I am going to take it in and get it checked by a pro.Its something inside the car,not outside.I have totally removed the entire back plastic,everything except ceiling.The onlt time rattle is not there is with hatch open driving.I tried on desertred road.Its not all that loud but a tingling sound.The road doesnt have to be bumpy,just any average road even any little disturbance in pavement.If the dealer cant find then i will remove lock mechanism totally as well as the wiper components and just have a bare door to see what happens.I have had shittier built cars then this without this nonsense.
p.s the backseats are already out along with all seatbelt hardware.
Pinchlite
07-28-2017, 07:19 AM
broken stretched missing clips or claws? anywhere can put somefer screws?
After removing everything I decided to remove brakelight (Top back window)
There is wires wrapped in thick plastic that was rattling against metal.I ziptied that sucker and issue resolved.
Pinchlite
07-28-2017, 07:19 AM
Check the hatchback lift strut mounts. There is an issue with them breaking on the older hatchbacks. Mine broke on the right side and I used a fix that I found on the forum. Left side is starting to go, spot welds are stretching and the hatch lift strut hits up against the body of the car and rattles like crazy. Only solution I found for the time being until they snap off is to put a gob of silicone grease.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57327&highlight=strut+mount
After removing everything I decided to remove brakelight (Top back window)
There is wires wrapped in thick plastic that was rattling against metal.I ziptied that sucker and issue resolved.
Pinchlite
07-28-2017, 07:23 AM
For a guy with what I would consider having mild OCD, I never trip on the squeaks and creaks cars make. I guess I just assume that moving down the road at +75 mph, stuff is always going to move around. I would expect less in a more expensive car, but I guess I just accepted it when buying a Yaris.
Having said that, ten years in and I don't find my Yaris making all that much noise. Mostly the back spare cover when going over really rough terrain, as well as little bit of bouncing from that big hard plastic dash.
After removing everything I decided to remove brakelight (Top back window)
There are wires wrapped in thick plastic that was rattling against metal.I ziptied that sucker and issue resolved.
Dash,doors are fixed of rattles and my utility boxes are screwed down (Back where spare tire is)Rear seat delete along with all seatbelt hardware removed.
This was the only other rattle and know the car is rattle/squeeky free besides the side power windows only when rolled down(really bumpy surfaces only).This I can totally live with and can drive annoyance free.
dogsridewith
07-28-2017, 10:08 AM
This thread made me a cartoon picture of a fellow in a totally stripped Yaris hatch--no doors, hood, hatch, windows, interior or seats--driving along sitting on a milk crate w/ a big happy smile, captioned: "Yipee. Squeaks and rattles ALL GONE."
(Interesting that unlatching the hatch stopped the wire harness rattle.)
FunctionSpec
07-28-2017, 12:22 PM
After removing everything I decided to remove brakelight (Top back window)
There is wires wrapped in thick plastic that was rattling against metal.I ziptied that sucker and issue resolved.
Nice, glad you found the problem. Totally forgot about that high mount brakelight causing a rattle. I had the same issue years ago and just stuffed some foam in there.
kimona
07-28-2017, 12:36 PM
After removing everything I decided to remove brakelight (Top back window)
There are wires wrapped in thick plastic that was rattling against metal. I ziptied that sucker and issue resolved.
Whodathunkit? Mystery solved. Good for you. Rattles can be annoying.
Pinchlite
07-28-2017, 05:43 PM
Nice, glad you found the problem. Totally forgot about that high mount brakelight causing a rattle. I had the same issue years ago and just stuffed some foam in there.
I already did that to stop rattle when I bought car.
This was the wire/s that power the brakelight vibrating/bouncing and hitting metal inside.I ziptied wire harness and noise gone.
Pinchlite
07-28-2017, 05:44 PM
This thread made me a cartoon picture of a fellow in a totally stripped Yaris hatch--no doors, hood, hatch, windows, interior or seats--driving along sitting on a milk crate w/ a big happy smile, captioned: "Yipee. Squeaks and rattles ALL GONE."
(Interesting that unlatching the hatch stopped the wire harness rattle.)
I Have no idea but as soon as wire was secured with ziptie that plasticky tickity sound is gone.
Pinchlite
07-28-2017, 05:46 PM
Whodathunkit? Mystery solved. Good for you. Rattles can be annoying.
Yesss..so much more pleasant.Its nice to drive with no stereo know and then and just hear the motor,road and wind.
spookybathtub
10-30-2017, 10:50 AM
I’ve been struggling to identify the rattles in the rear of my 07 hatchback. I’m glad I found this thread, as it gives me some more places to check. It’s infuriating. It’s very hard to reproduce the rattle while the car is not in motion.
ACKING_QC
10-30-2017, 12:32 PM
me it's the 3rd brake light plastic that started rattling so what I did is I went to my local McDonald's and bought a Great Angus Trio...made sure to KEEP the receipt because that is what I put there, no more ralltes and it's not even visible ! lol
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