2006 YarisRS 'Renovations'

[06YarisRS]

Picked up this great little car for $2200.00 Canadian. It has 174000 km on the odometer and it's in great shape. It came with 4 new Michelin Defender tires - about a month old. I've ordered a used exhaust manifold from eBay for $45.00 and bits and pieces (gasket, donut, spring bolt kit etc). The manifold flange ears are gone, as in not even there anymore. The car's body is in fantastic shape for an older car driven in the salt and slush. The underbody, rocker panels, doglegs etc are all excellent. I hope to keep it this way and I have gallons of old ATF for interior panels, Fluid Film underneath.

A few jobs I'm working on:

This job is done. Driver's rear wheel well (so glad that the previous owner at least put some paint over the ding:

https://i.imgur.com/yOVIa2i.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5ojD8rs.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/clCl8hm.jpg

This is a WIP. Hatch: This took a lot of work behind straigtening out and reinforcing. The outer skin had detached from the inner frame at this corner:
https://i.imgur.com/fDNhfLE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Lm3gppY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3hbjGBB.jpg

This job is a WIP. Thresholds (various pics from both sides)
https://i.imgur.com/jEUwy7W.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GJZIakq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gVyrzSb.jpg

This job is done. Headlight restoration. These lights were both very oxidized and quite yellow. I wet sanded and polished. No clearcoat. I use my Klasse High Gloss Paint Sealant.
https://i.imgur.com/EF9SOnS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JdKSEsA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WqyKqJZ.jpg

The hatch lock did not work. Thanks to this forum, I found a thread on disassembling it and cleaning. Also, the nylon tab that swings the latch back was broken off. Fortunately, it was in the bottom of the hatch. A little hot glue fixed that. I wasn't looking forward to buying a latch assembly, so was really glad to see that it was repairable.
https://i.imgur.com/vAPiVuT.jpg

Since I love Rock Auto, I've ordered rear brake drums (these are a bit rusty), a hardware kit and shoes. Also, ordered 6L ATF, a transmission filter, 4 oil filters, 4 Denso Iridium plugs, and a couple air filters.

[ern-diz]

You hit the ground running with this one!

[06YarisRS]

You hit the ground running with this one!

Thanks. Well, it's such a great little car and there was a lot to work with. I took it to a body shop today; the same one I went to before I did the body work. I was quoted ~$600.00 - $700.00 to do the 2 areas initially. With the body work done now, the shop will charge me around $300.00 to paint it. I'm not fully satisfied with the job the rattle cans did (or the job "I" did with the rattle cans, lol). It looks OK, but the rest of the car is in such good shape, the 300 is worth it IMO. I set myself a budget of $1500 ($1800 at the outside) for repair work. So far I'm only in for about $250.00. I have a battery light flickering and have read that the connector or the voltage regulator are possible causes. If the connector isn't the issue, I may grab a reman alternator and pop that on. The seller said the light had been on for 3 years with no issues. Voltmeter says the alternator is producing 14V at idle and no starting issues at all - lots of crank power, but the DRLs are out and I read that may be related to the voltage regulator.

[WeeYari]

Yeah, the DRLs will be dead with the regulator acting up. My battery light intermittently flickered for several years before eventually staying lit solid.

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[kimona]

It's coming along nicely! Looking forward to more photos as you get it all sorted out.

[06YarisRS]

Yeah, the DRLs will be dead with the regulator acting up. My battery light intermittently flickered for several years before eventually staying lit solid.

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Thanks! Great to know. Rather than take the alternator apart to install a new regulator, I think I'll just got for a whole reman..

[06YarisRS]

It's coming along nicely! Looking forward to more photos as you get it all sorted out.

Thanks Kimona! I'll be sure to post more.

[hairygityeti]

Gonna look nice!

[06YarisRS]

Gonna look nice!

Thanks! I hope so. I got lucky as silver is my fav color choice in automobiles. :)

[06YarisRS]

I had a 06 Corolla that did that with the battery light and I was talking with a
good friend of mine that told me to whack the alternator while the car is
running, he said the brushes probably just have crud on them. So I took my
tire iron and with the car running gave it a few good whacks, the light never
came back on and I drove that car for another 200,000 with no more issues.
Not sure if that will fix your problem or not but it an easy cheap fix if it does.

Well there you go. I just picked up a reman unit this morning. It's still in the box, so I'll try tapping it first. Thanks!

[06YarisRS]

I replaced the alternator and the battery light is gone. Yay!

[06YarisRS]

Final priming is done. Just a light sand with 320 and then the base and clear. Hoping to be done today.
https://i.imgur.com/TzBt1qe.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jCTjjxn.jpg

[WeeYari]

Where in NB are you? I spend two weeks every year in Greater Moncton visiting in-laws.

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[WeeYari]

I'm hoping I nipped my door sills in the bud. Since the plastic trim wears through the paint, I cleaned up my early development of rust and sprayed several coats of bed liner along the area where that trim makes contact.

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[kimona]

Final priming is done. Just a light sand with 320 and then the base and clear. Hoping to be done today.


Looking good. You're moving quickly.

I guess I would have removed the rear mud flaps rather than taping them.

[06YarisRS]

Where in NB are you? I spend two weeks every year in Greater Moncton visiting in-laws.

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Hey WeeYari.

We live in Beaver Harbour, near St. George/Pennfield. Moncton is a regular visit for us in the summers. Kids love it! I was in Moncton about 3 weeks ago test driving small cars.

[06YarisRS]

I'm hoping I nipped my door sills in the bud. Since the plastic trim wears through the paint, I cleaned up my early development of rust and sprayed several coats of bed liner along the area where that trim makes contact.

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I know what you mean about the trim scraping the paint off. I think it's just shallow surface rust but unsightly none-the-less. I usually put some 3M film under the trim after I restore them, as well as wrap it around the wear points of the door threshold. Puts an end to scratches/scraping. It's the best cheap fix I know of.

Also, I picked up another 1/2" high speed steel countersink bit and I already have a box of 100 body plugs. Yesterday I drilled a hole in the top of the rocker - about midway on the threshold. I hit another steel plate just 1/4" below. However, my goal was achieved when I dumped about 1/2 L of used atf in there with my transmission funnel and it ran out along the pinch seam of the rockers and into my waiting container. I use a piece of old eavestrough to collect and 'recycle' my atf rustproofing. :)

[06YarisRS]

Looking good. You're moving quickly.

I guess I would have removed the rear mud flaps rather than taping them.

Yeah, it's coming along. Haha, yes, removing them would have been more wise for sure. I just didn't want to take the wheel off to get to the screws. I suppose I could have used a stubby screwdriver. Incidentally, I did later remove the wheels to check the condition of the rear brakes. My pedal is a tad soft and I thought I'd poke around in there and play with the adjusted a bit. I did tighten them up a bit but still have a bit of pedal softness. I have to say that this car is indeed the easiest car I have worked on. Well designed and intuitive. Removing the drums was a joke with a couple 8Mx1.25 bolts.


The pads are a bit worn, but since this thing is so easy to work on, it should be a snap to install my new brake parts.

I'm thinking I might bleed the brakes soon and see if that stiffens up the pedal. I haven't owned a drum brake equipped car in eons. Will have to research how to bleed the system. Calipers are easy with the bleeder screws. During my quick inspection I didn't see such an item on the wheel cylinder. I also adjusted my handbrake and that, at first, seemed to help, but after a short drive it was a bit soft again.

Enough rambling... :laugh:

[WeeYari]

We live in Beaver Harbour, near St. George/Pennfield.

Beautiful country. Been a lifer there?


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[hairygityeti]

Looking good m8 cant wait to see finished product

[06YarisRS]

Beautiful country. Been a lifer there?


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Yes, we love it. My wife and I are originally from Fredericton. About a dozen years ago I took a teaching position on Grand Manan; I'd been in Manitoba teaching for the decade prior to that. I then requested and received a transfer off the island. We lived in Back Bay for 2 years, then finally Beaver Harbour. I've always loved this area for it rugged coastlines and ocean views. We lucked out and picked up a great property on the water. Our kids are both born Charlotte County'ers'.

[06YarisRS]

Looking good m8 cant wait to see finished product

Thanks hairygityeti! Can't say I'm completely happy with the finished product. I'm no body man, that's for sure. I got a little overzealous on the final coats of base coat and got some more concentrated areas of metalic flake (too close with the can in a few spots. Also, there are a couple of areas on the liftgate that had minor bumps that weren't visible until the final clearcoat was applied. I may wait a week or two and resand, fix the small bumps and repaint. Overall, it looks pretty good though. The bumper hasn't been wet sanded and polished yet, so it's a bit flat looking. Plus, have some overspray to contend with.

I'll take a couple more pics in better lighting later.

https://i.imgur.com/Go55cs2.jpg

Ain't the little Yaris, cute? Hahahttps://i.imgur.com/XiLczPp.jpg

Over the winter, I am going to restore the wheels. They are in very good shape but a few scratches. here and there.

[06YarisRS]

I have finished the painted and clear coated sills by applying Trimbrite heavy paint protection film. This stuff goes on great with a heat gun and quite easily wraps around the contours.

I drilled a couple more holes in the c-pillars and 'injected' a bunch of Rust Check red. Then I dumped about a half liter of ATF in with my trans funnel. After a few seconds it started to drip out into my pans. My rockers (front to back), wheelhouses and interior wheel well seams should now be thoroughly soaked with ATF/Rust Check.

Rocker panels:

https://i.imgur.com/nyvqRMt.jpg

Rear quarter panels and dogleg area:

https://i.imgur.com/A5ALmPT.jpg

I also started the cleaning process. This car was filthy. The seats produced a of couple gallons of very dirty brown water in my shopvac. I will tackle the back tomorrow.

[06YarisRS]

I shopped around on eBay and picked up floor liners, buying the fronts and rear from different sellers. Total was around $100.00 USD. I would have preferred black but the grey ones were quite a bit cheaper (Gotta stay within budget, you know, haha). If I'd gone with tan, I would have saved more, tan, nah.

These are Aries StyleGuard and seem really well made. They WILL NOT MOVE once positioned. In fact, they are really hard to position initially because if they contact and carpet at all, it's like they are glued down. The fit is as good as weathertech IMO.

https://i.imgur.com/6DL6lek.jpg

I see that I am going to have to do another round of upholstry extracting. These seats were really dirty and this is after one intense cleaning.

https://i.imgur.com/iPMOciw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OYWqpY2.jpg

Also, picked up a cheap arm rest/console for $32.00 USD

https://i.imgur.com/u0D2CDA.jpg

Finally, a smartphone adapter for the stock radio
https://i.imgur.com/ETf4FzZ.jpg

[06YarisRS]

After breaking a bleeder screw off attempting to flush brakes, I thought that rather than sink into depression, I'd do something non labour intensive - and most of all, safe for our little Yaris. :smile: I'll pick up a wheel cylinder - probably 2 tomorrow, if available locally.

Procedure:
- brake cleaner and towel off
- wire brush
- painted on phosphoric acid and let sit 30 minutes
- Washed off and brake cleaner again
- 3 coats Ace Hardware heat resistant BBQ paint

I've used this paint for a few years now and providing that a proper prep job is done, it will stand up really well. At wheel change time, I'll give them a quick once over with the wire brush, brake cleaner and respray them. Often they just need a cleaning to get rid of the brake dust and they're nice and clean again.
https://i.imgur.com/qhT37kZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TQsuWcR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QGF9kzh.jpg

[kimona]

Your car is really coming along nicely and looking great.

[06YarisRS]

Your car is really coming along nicely and looking great.

Thanks Kimona! I'm sure having fun with it. Well, except the broken bleeder screw. I'll try to source a pair of wheel cylinders locally. Failing that, the poor old Yaris will be driveway-bound for another week, sadly.

[ern-diz]

Your car is really coming along nicely and looking great.

+1

I am, however, confused about the mats. Aries StyleGuard? They look exactly like my 3D Maxpider Kagu mats. In fact, I can see part of the 3D logo in the pic of the passenger side. Thought maybe it was a reference to the material used, or something like that, so I pulled up the ad for them and didn't see any mention of 'Aries StyleGuard' :iono:

In any case, they are fantastic, and again, the car is really coming along nicely.

[06YarisRS]

+1

I am, however, confused about the mats. Aries StyleGuard? They look exactly like my 3D Maxpider Kagu mats. In fact, I can see part of the 3D logo in the pic of the passenger side. Thought maybe it was a reference to the material used, or something like that, so I pulled up the ad for them and didn't see any mention of 'Aries StyleGuard' :iono:

In any case, they are fantastic, and again, the car is really coming along nicely.

Thanks. I'm enjoying working on the car. I replaced my passenger side wheel cylinder today and bled the line. It was a very easy job, thankfully.

I think that maybe the floor liners are distributed through a couple of brand names. Here's a pic of the logo on my mats:

https://i.imgur.com/CmHaMXp.jpg

[ern-diz]

Ah, how interesting. Same 3D logo, but mine don't have the Aries marking. I wonder what the difference, if any, there is between the Maxpider Kagu and Aries series? From the pics, they look identical. You might be right, it could just be a branding change.

[06YarisRS]

Ah, how interesting. Same 3D logo, but mine don't have the Aries marking. I wonder what the difference, if any, there is between the Maxpider Kagu and Aries series? From the pics, they look identical. You might be right, it could just be a branding change.

It would seem so. I'm liking them quite a bit. We shall see how well they clean up and how long they last/how durable the top layer is. I like the WeatherTechs, but they do get scratched up pretty badly after a few years use.

As an aside, I got the other wheel cylinder installed and bled that station. Now all I have to contend with are the bleeder screws on the calipers. I haven't even tried them but I do have a can of ReleaseAll, I think it's called. I'm pretty sure it helped free up the brake fasteners.

[06YarisRS]

Ah, how interesting. Same 3D logo, but mine don't have the Aries marking. I wonder what the difference, if any, there is between the Maxpider Kagu and Aries series? From the pics, they look identical. You might be right, it could just be a branding change.

Well, I'm not super impressed with these mats. My kids somehow seem to be little gravel magnets and bring them in on their shoes. The back mat already has a few unremoveable scratches. My van liners on the other hand - subject to the same gravel assault, and equipped with WeatherTechs - are in prefect shape despite being much older. The Aries ones look great, but I'm having doubts about their durability. Frankly, I'm wishing I'd shelled out more bucks and got the weatherTechs.

[hairygityeti]

She is looking excellent i am jealous mines an old series 1 but she is a good work horse!. I live near the North sea so cars here tend to rust badly so im jealous and love what you have achieved,dont put yourself down spraying with cans is not easy for many at least you avoided runs and sags :clap: i am thinking of under sealing mine to slow down the rust she is 18 years old,keep up the good work:coolpics:

[06YarisRS]

She is looking excellent i am jealous mines an old series 1 but she is a good work horse!. I live near the North sea so cars here tend to rust badly so im jealous and love what you have achieved,dont put yourself down spraying with cans is not easy for many at least you avoided runs and sags :clap: i am thinking of under sealing mine to slow down the rust she is 18 years old,keep up the good work:coolpics:

Thanks a lot hairygetyeti! I love the series one. My wife had an Echo and despite being completely neglected (this was before we met, of course :wink: ) it lasted for years and years and had close to 300000 km on it. After we got together, we kept the car for a couple of years. I did a quick fiberglass and bondo rear rocker panel repair on the Echo before selling it. I could push my finger through the dogleg area and it was basically the paint and primer that was holding everything together. When I sold it, I told the buyer that I'd drenched it on the inside with motor oil. I advised that he do that at least annually. Other than that rust, the underbody of her echo was in excellent shape. We too live by the ocean but it's more the tons of road salt they lay down that gets to our cars. I really wish they would find an alternative, less corrosive de-icer.

Can you get access to Fluid Film near you? It's a bit costly unless you buy by the gallon and use a sprayer and compressor. I have purchased FF when on sale in the 11oz spray cans and I bet you could do a Yaris completely with about 3 cans. I've also bought the gallon (went halves with our old principal), heated it up and sprayed 4 -5 cars.

[hairygityeti]

Thanks a lot hairygetyeti! I love the series one. My wife had an Echo and despite being completely neglected (this was before we met, of course :wink: ) it lasted for years and years and had close to 300000 km on it. After we got together, we kept the car for a couple of years. I did a quick fiberglass and bondo rear rocker panel repair on the Echo before selling it. I could push my finger through the dogleg area and it was basically the paint and primer that was holding everything together. When I sold it, I told the buyer that I'd drenched it on the inside with motor oil. I advised that he do that at least annually. Other than that rust, the underbody of her echo was in excellent shape. We too live by the ocean but it's more the tons of road salt they lay down that gets to our cars. I really wish they would find an alternative, less corrosive de-icer.

Can you get access to Fluid Film near you? It's a bit costly unless you buy by the gallon and use a sprayer and compressor. I have purchased FF when on sale in the 11oz spray cans and I bet you could do a Yaris completely with about 3 cans. I've also bought the gallon (went halves with our old principal), heated it up and sprayed 4 -5 cars.

Its prity bad corrosion under her rear but no holes i will probs use a can off black under seal and cover her ass, with my car its just delaying the inevitable shes had one new wing and new door sill so she still solid although i might paint the petrol tank with fibre fill mixed with resin cos of slight leak on a full tank.As for the rock salt on the roads " ditto "Lets hope we have another mild winter:laughabove:

[06YarisRS]

Although my exhaust system is in decent shape - most of it - I decided to paint it with VHT Flameproof paint. I used this on my old Dodge Grand Caravan and it stuck like glue. It stayed on there for years and any other high heat paint I'd put over it bubbled off leaving the Flameproof fully intact.

Process:

First I wire brushed everythng off, then sprayed it liberally with Rust Check Rust Converter. After that dried, I gave it a light sand and washed it off with brake cleaner. I applied 3 coats about 10 minutes apart. After about an hour, I did the first stage curing - about 15 minutes idling. half an hour later I went for a short drive. I could smell the stuff curing. In about 1/2 hour we're going out for a short drive for the final curing.

For anyone unfamiliar with the product, it s a ceramic based coating that can handle extreme heat. Of course, preparation is key. Here's hoping it stays around as well as it did on the van. It looks better and should provide a little protection to the outer surface this winter. I do have a small hole in the mid pipe which I patched with fiber resin tape. It's very solid and quiet. However, I will be replacing this section of pipe.

Pics:

https://i.imgur.com/sJa4Ykh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/M78irnR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cttm4Ox.jpg

Yes, I do have too much time on my hands.

Check out all the thick goopy undercoating. :biggrin:

[06YarisRS]

Its prity bad corrosion under her rear but no holes i will probs use a can off black under seal and cover her ass, with my car its just delaying the inevitable shes had one new wing and new door sill so she still solid although i might paint the petrol tank with fibre fill mixed with resin cos of slight leak on a full tank.As for the rock salt on the roads " ditto "Lets hope we have another mild winter:laughabove:

Yes, salty water is the devil's brew. I am going to be putting bed liner in my driver's side rear wheel well after a good scraping, sanding and primimg. I already did the passenger side. The factory rubberized undercoating is pretty much beaten off but the wells are in great shape; mostly factory paint and a few small surface rust spots. Once the bedliner dries, I'll be soaking it with rustproofing as well as attacking it from behind with the rust proofing.

Best of luck with your repairs. Typically, these days, the body gives out long before the powertrain, especially with the high quality mechanics of these cars.

[ern-diz]

Well, I'm not super impressed with these mats. My kids somehow seem to be little gravel magnets and bring them in on their shoes. The back mat already has a few unremoveable scratches. My van liners on the other hand - subject to the same gravel assault, and equipped with WeatherTechs - are in prefect shape despite being much older. The Aries ones look great, but I'm having doubts about their durability. Frankly, I'm wishing I'd shelled out more bucks and got the weatherTechs.

Interesting. My back carpets are still in good shape, so I just bought the front two. Again, I'm not sure if there's a difference between the Aries model you got and what I have. The 3D Maxpider Kagu mats I got boast a triple layer design of non-stick on the bottom, padding in the center and then weather proof upper. So far, they're holding up great.

I would have liked to go with Weathertech because I really like the company (my window visors are Weathertech), but it wasn't a cost thing for me, it was a design thing. In your van, or in a truck, I'm sure they look great. In a small passenger car, not so much. Just my opinion, but I think they're too utilitarian looking. Something you'd put in a work truck. The 3D's are a lot nicer looking for a passenger car.

[06YarisRS]

Interesting. My back carpets are still in good shape, so I just bought the front two. Again, I'm not sure if there's a difference between the Aries model you got and what I have. The 3D Maxpider Kagu mats I got boast a triple layer design of non-stick on the bottom, padding in the center and then weather proof upper. So far, they're holding up great.

I would have liked to go with Weathertech because I really like the company (my window visors are Weathertech), but it wasn't a cost thing for me, it was a design thing. In your van, or in a truck, I'm sure they look great. In a small passenger car, not so much. Just my opinion, but I think they're too utilitarian looking. Something you'd put in a work truck. The 3D's are a lot nicer looking for a passenger car.

I agree about the aesthetics. The mats we have do look great. I'll get over the scratches soon. Haha. After all, they are there mainly to protect the carpet. The WeatherTechs do have a bit of an 'industrial' look, definitely.

[WeeYari]

These are what I put in my Soul last year. Love them. Weathertech fit with a carpet surface layer.

https://www.findway.ca/f518-style-3d-car-floor-liners/toyota/yaris/2007/automatic-5-door-hatchback/62170b

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[kimona]

WeeYari, those are really nice mats! Is the carpet surface durable and easy to clean?

[ern-diz]

WeeYari, those are really nice mats!

+1

[WeeYari]

Is the carpet surface durable and easy to clean?

Yes and very. You would never guess it to look at them now that they had weathered a salt laden winter.


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[06YarisRS]

These are what I put in my Soul last year. Love them. Weathertech fit with a carpet surface layer.

https://www.findway.ca/f518-style-3d-car-floor-liners/toyota/yaris/2007/automatic-5-door-hatchback/62170b

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Ooh...I do like those! I've never heard of them before.

[06YarisRS]

I picked up my pipe, tint for the rear windows (35%) and rubber bumper protector.

https://i.imgur.com/6eYu9Jh.jpg

[06YarisRS]

The tint was an abject failure. My fault for rushing the job.

The bumper protector looks pretty good and should never come off. I used a pile of 3M tape and heated it to ensure a good bond.

Exhaust pipe went on without too much incident. I am going to get it welded though as the flange lined up with a flattened spot on the stock pipe so seal with clamp isn't 100%. Some muffler cement filled the small gap temporarily.

Bumper protector and a bit of paint film on hatch edge:

https://i.imgur.com/4Inl9Db.jpg

Some paint film on bumper :

https://i.imgur.com/Ss3GUJz.jpg

[kimona]

^^^ That should do the trick. Looks good.

[06YarisRS]

^^^ That should do the trick. Looks good.

Yup, should do. Can't complain for $8.00.

I kinda rushed the paint film and should have cut a smoother radius, but what the hey, you can barely see it anyway unless you're looking for it.

Thanks!

[WeeYari]

Where'd you get that exhaust pipe?

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[06YarisRS]

Where'd you get that exhaust pipe?

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Rock Auto. Part 750-253. Here's a link:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6638428&cc=1441738&jsn=10382

It's a great, and cheap, alternative to buying the whole cat pipe. It was like $55.00 CAD shipping included (to my US post box).

BTW, do you know if CTScott is still here and selling cruise control units? Thanks man! I sent you a PM. If you'd be so kind as to let me know if you receive it, I'd be very appreciative. Not sure my PMs are sending as there's nothing in my sent box.

[ern-diz]

So, that exhaust pipe deletes the muffler?

[WeeYari]

So, that exhaust pipe deletes the muffler?No. Look at it again and you will see the muffler connecting flange on the end of it. That piece he got replaces a portion of the pipe aft of the resonator.

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[ern-diz]

No. Look at it again and you will see the muffler connecting flange on the end of it. That piece he got replaces a portion of the pipe aft of the resonator.

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I see, thanks. At first glance, it looked like the end opposite of the side that connects to the resonator was an exhaust tip.

[06YarisRS]

I wish I'd seen this before I bought from Rock Auto. Since my exhaust guy deleted my resonator, I could have gotten this piece - including the resonator.

https://www.carid.com/2006-toyota-yaris-exhaust-parts/ansa-replacement-muffler-80703136.html

[06YarisRS]

Finally got around to painting my spoiler. It is by no means a perfect job. I didn't fine sand it as much as I should have. It's got some fine sand marks and the clear coat needs to be sanded and polished.

Spoiler with adhesion promoter applied:
https://i.imgur.com/GiZdcGi.jpg

With tack coat:
https://i.imgur.com/Ly6KYy0.jpg

With base coat:
https://i.imgur.com/3eUCsMH.jpg

Clear coat. Looks matte, but will be glossy after wet sanding and polishing:
https://i.imgur.com/9fQUxA1.jpg

[Whiplash]

That should make it look even better. You did a really good job with everything so far.

[06YarisRS]

That should make it look even better. You did a really good job with everything so far.

Thanks, Whiplash! It's coming along. Can wait to widen the rear track with the Penguin spacers I just picked up. Then, from an exterior point of view, it should be done. Oh, well, once the front lip is installed and painted too!

[WeeYari]

Pics never show the flaws, but that looks real good.

[06YarisRS]

Pics never show the flaws, but that looks real good.

Thanks. Well, it's going to get another sanding and repaint. I took it out into the sunlight and it looks ok, but I could also see a bit of light shining through. I have a pretty good basecoat though now. I'll post up pics of the finished product.

After that, it's the front lip. That, I'll install first and then paint it on the car. I doubt that this paint would handle any amount of flex.

The above said, if I'm not satisfied with the overall look of the car, I have another possible plan. There is a fellow locally with an autobody/collision shop. I am going to ask him to do an estimate on painting the back of the car. I've seen some of his blending work from all angles and the guy is a pro - virtually impossible to see his blending. The other option is a total repaint, except the door jambs, engine bay under hood, tailgate, inside of doors etc. I had spoken with him before and he quoted me around $350 - $400.00 to do the back end. If I repaired the tiny dings and sanded out the light scratches and he was willing to seal, base coat and clear for around $1K, I may do it. He is open to painting cars that other non-professionals have done minor body work on.

[BennyLava]

When you polished out the headlights, what grit of sand paper did you use?

Also, is the the exact polish you buffed them with afterwards?

https://www.autogeek.net/klashiggloss.html

[06YarisRS]

When you polished out the headlights, what grit of sand paper did you use?

Also, is the the exact polish you buffed them with afterwards?

https://www.autogeek.net/klashiggloss.html

If memory serves me correctly, I used 1500 followed by 2000 or 2500, wetsanding. That stage is important as the more time you put in here, the better the job, IMO. Keep sanding lightly until the yellow slurry turns to white slurry. Rinse well. I then used Meguiar's Ultimate Polish with my dual action polisher and cutting pad. After a good cleaning, rinse and microfiber towel drying, I applied a couple of coats of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze as in your link - about a day between applications. This is because to get the yellow out, you have to sand off the clearcoat that is on the headlight. That's what yellows. The klasse serves as a replacement for the uv blocker in the clearcoat to keep them from yellowing again. All of this is just my theory, but I have had good long-term success with this approach. We did a raft of cars in our school shop and our 'customers' were thrilled with the results.

Thinking about doing yours?

Klasse HGSG is the product I use exclusively for my car's paint. I have been using it for years and although I haven't tried many other sealants, it is amazingly durable/long-lasting and a few layers creates the most gloss candy-like and slick coating. And, to boot, a $30.00 jug (large jug) will last years! My cars get 4 - 5 coats a year and application is quick. If you want the best method, IMO, follow the link below. I do my headlights every time I do the paint too. I don't use Klasse All In One (AIO) as my paint is pretty clean usually anyway.

https://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/klasse-high-gloss-sealant-glaze-ksg-guide-and-review/

[06YarisRS]

Pics never show the flaws, but that looks real good.

This look better? I think the extra effort will be worth it. I resanded, repainted and re-cleared. Clearcoat is nice and thick, so should be easy to polish out the orange peel and achieve a high gloss. :thumbsup:

Some day I'd like to invest in some actual automotive painting equipment and learn how to properly paint a car.

https://i.imgur.com/Mv306ug.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/q45Zc17.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6iarRnO.jpg

[ern-diz]

For a DIY, I think it looks great.

[06YarisRS]

For a DIY, I think it looks great.


Thanks man! I'll give it a week or so and then wet sand and polish. Should be very smooth with good reflectivity.

[WeeYari]

This look better?

I thought it looked good earlier. Any flaws then were really only visible to your eye. Camera doesn't pic them up. Just like taking a pic of my front bumper. Looks fantastic in pictures, naked eye sees something that looks to have seen the business end of a 12 gauge.


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[06YarisRS]

I thought it looked good earlier. Any flaws then were really only visible to your eye. Camera doesn't pic them up. Just like taking a pic of my front bumper. Looks fantastic in pictures, naked eye sees something that looks to have seen the business end of a 12 gauge.


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So true. Once on the car and out of the garage, I'm sure all the imperfections will jump out. My whole car is a "looks great from 10 - 20 feet away" vehicle. LOL.

[06YarisRS]

Well, I got the job done. It took two attempts with the 3M tape. Got it on crooked the first time and it was a bear to remove. Second time was better. I was going to install just with the tape, but because I could not ascertain that the tape was in full contact with both the car and the spoiler, I decided to drill and use self-tapping screws as well. I then saturated the holes with thick rust proof compound.

I'm really on the fence about the look. It could go either way - the new spoiler or the stock stubby spoiler.

https://i.imgur.com/Gl4jef5.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GCHAFcs.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Uo2IzPT.jpg

[Captain Yaris]

That looks great!

[06YarisRS]

That looks great!

Thanks Cap'n! It looks pretty good from a few feet away. The spoiler was pretty rough and even though I sanded quite a bit, it's far from perfect.

[ern-diz]

Looks good to me. Love those factory alloys, too. I think this car would level up 100 cool points if you installed some lowering springs. It would make a huge impact.

[Captain Yaris]

Well, I dig it! Coincidently, do these spoilers do anything on our cars? Is there any downward force being exerted?

[WeeYari]

Coincidently, do these spoilers do anything on our cars? Is there any downward force being exerted?

10 whp in cool factor. Maybe keep window glass a bit cleaner. Down force nil.



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[ern-diz]

Well, I dig it! Coincidently, do these spoilers do anything on our cars? Is there any downward force being exerted?

If I remember correctly, our cars are governed by aerodynamics. Drag keeps them from going much over 115 mph. I think the added drag from the spoiler brings down the top speed lol. They do look cool, though.

[06YarisRS]

Looks good to me. Love those factory alloys, too. I think this car would level up 100 cool points if you installed some lowering springs. It would make a huge impact.

Oh, don't get me started. LOL! I agree. I confess as much as I like the look of the lowered Yari, I have not even glanced at pricing for a drop, or what's involved. I think my next move is a rear sway bar, so I'm keeping my eyes out for a used one before dropping a few hundred on a new one.

What all is involved in dropping the car?

I am seriously thinking about swapping out my new 195/60R15s that I just put on my '08 with the 185/6015 Michelin Defenders that are currently on my '06. If the 195s plus Penguin spacers will fit without rubbing on my '06, I think it would be a stellar look. If I did that I bet I'd be pushing it, especially if a drop becomes a factor.

[06YarisRS]

Well, I dig it! Coincidently, do these spoilers do anything on our cars? Is there any downward force being exerted?

Thanks! Not sure, but I do know that on my old Grand Caravan, the application of a rear spoiler kept the liftgate window a heck of a lot cleaner. LOL!

[06YarisRS]

10 whp in cool factor.

No question! :thumbup:

[ern-diz]

What all is involved in dropping the car?

My experience was spending roughly $200 on a set of springs and having a friend help me install them one sunny afternoon. There are cheaper spring options and good install walk-throughs here on the forum.

[06YarisRS]

My experience was spending roughly $200 on a set of springs and having a friend help me install them one sunny afternoon. There are cheaper spring options and good install walk-throughs here on the forum.

Awesome. Thanks! I like the idea of a drop but I wouldn't want to go more than 1.5" max. We live in a rural area and I need clearance for the various rodents and other small critters that suicidely charge onto the road.

On eBay springs range from ~$70.00 up to a few hundred. In the pricing middle are sets of Manzo springs. Know anything about them? I did read warnings about cheaper, so called "JDM" knockoffs, so would probably avoid those. Open ears for any advice/recommendations.

I'm going to search the forums on installation procedures. This is a project that I might undertake so long as it wouldn't interfere with my wheels/tires and also didn't require a lot of extra measures like camber adjustment. An alignment, I would, of course, be willing to do.

[WeeYari]

I've driven all over your province dropped 1.5"

My recommendation should you decide to lower, go with something like Eibach Prokits at 1.1". These are the springs that Toyota Canada actually sold for lowering springs, not TRDs at 1.25"

[06YarisRS]

I've driven all over your province dropped 1.5"

My recommendation should you decide to lower, go with something like Eibach Prokits at 1.1". These are the springs that Toyota Canada actually sold for lowering springs, not TRDs at 1.25"

Sage advice, I believe. I did see a set of other brand springs that stated 1.3" drop and I kinda liked that idea, but 1.1" sounds even better. I expect thse Eibach springs ain't cheap though. Will search online. Thanks!

[ern-diz]

:thumbsup:

Megan Racing isn't the highest level brand, but it's good, solid quality and doesn't break the bank. I think they provide a 1.5" drop on these cars.

[06YarisRS]

:thumbsup:

Megan Racing isn't the highest level brand, but it's good, solid quality and doesn't break the bank. I think they provide a 1.5" drop on these cars.

Thanks. Will have a look at those.

[WeeYari]

Megans are what I was running. Decent ride quality with 1.5" drop front and rear. Problem with Megan is their powder coat sucks. Cracks and begins flaking off in second year.

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[06YarisRS]

Megans are what I was running. Decent ride quality with 1.5" drop front and rear. Problem with Megan is their powder coat sucks. Cracks and begins flaking off in second year.

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Ah, good to know about the ride quality. I've always been surprised that powder coat would even last that long given the continuous flexing.