1nz turbo with recipe!

[speedworxs]

so i am installing my turbo 1NZ in to a 02 mr2 spyder.

But
i'm going for a solid 400 hp (ish). I figure the 1.5 honda makes 400, why can't I
my recipe so far:
1nz block, crank $50
75mm vitara pistons (approx 8.5 c/r) $150 *thanks EchoLaQua*
CXRacing H-Beam Connecting Rods $200
crower valve springs, titannium retainers, and reground cams $800
Honda D-series ram horn style manifold (with 1nz flange) $300
Chinese/eBay turbo $300
ecu ??? (likely megasquirt or clone for cheap)
total 1800 +ecu
i'll need a clutch too

this recipe on civics (vitara pistons and t3/t4) is reliably making 400 hp. so i don't think i'm far off.
this is the honda site (https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/whats-needed-400whp-d-series-2121291/) post #14

any input is great.

[Dliverance]

I think you might find it difficult to make that kind of power with that setup but I’m in to see what you get. I have an 03 spyder myself. I would love to put my 1nz in it with boost and put the 1zz in my Yaris lol.

[Dliverance]

Btw, one of the reasons Honda’s can do it is because of head flow. Just food for thought.

[speedworxs]

yeah, i have the head apart on my work bench now. i can port it out a bit, but its actually a pretty nice looking head to begin with. i think minor 'clean-up' and the port should flow ok.
i'm hesitant to make outrageous claims, i don't want to look like xbgod... but given that the Dseries is the same displacement, i didn't think it was too outlandish

[SirDigby]

you're numbers are way off. you are missing about 100 parts. i figure it would be about $10,000 to get a reliable 260+hp. i don't think a reliable 400hp could be done for less than double. you are talking custom everything. the transaxle alone is going to be over $6000.

you're set up is going for an unreliable (chinese turbocharger) 160-ish hp...

for reference: the 2018 WRC yaris is 375hp. it costs over $100,000

[invader166]

https://i.imgflip.com/285a74.jpg (https://imgflip.com/i/285a74)via Imgflip Meme Generator (https://imgflip.com/memegenerator)

[speedworxs]

considering i'm going to forged rods, lower compression, and cams, i don't think i'm suggesting anything crazy - blown_xa made 350whp with stock components
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41181&page=4

[SirDigby]

ah... i am reading this post....looks like a bunch of issues, one every month or so.. looks like the transaxle is trashed...and then at the end he blew the engine.
so, to build a RELIABLE engine, it is going to cost many monies

[Dliverance]

30 psi is a LOT of boost. If you really want to make 400 horsepower, I suggest swapping in something that is already proven to make that kind of power. Something like a 3sgte.

[CrankyOldMan]

I'm curious why you don't go the 2ZZ route instead. Not hating, just seems like a better way to get a performance boost that's proven and potentially has more research for boosted applications. Of course Garm did 350+ bhp with a forged/sleeved build on his 1NZ, so you can totally do it.

That said, I've got similar dreams of putting a twin charged 1NZ into a MK1 MR2. =) It will mate with the transmission mounts of the MR2 if you use an xA/xB C50 bell housing, just have to fab the engine-side bracket.

The C56/C60 is a solid driveline, much stronger than the C50 from the xA/xB/Yaris/MK1 MR2. If you really need more power handling, you can always go E153 like the V6 swaps and they routinely do 300-400 bhp, but then you're out of my realm of knowledge as far as fit and fabrication.

[enviri]

500 hp in a 1nz is def possible if you got that dedication, maybe ~350 is where you could be aiming, which can be achieved semi-reliably with some elbow grease.

i had an 02 spyder, fun car, always wanted to drop a 2gr in it, making it a nice mini evora.

[speedworxs]

500 hp in a 1nz is def possible if you got that dedication, maybe ~350 is where you could be aiming, which can be achieved semi-reliably with some elbow grease.

i had an 02 spyder, fun car, always wanted to drop a 2gr in it, making it a nice mini evora.

yeah, i think 350 is achievable. i posted blown_xa build, since he made that power level on stock components. i am upgrading rods, pistons, and cam...
depending on turbo selection i don't think 350-400 is unacheivable.
also, i am using the c56 trans from my mr2, but the 1nz bell housing.
the mr2 only weighs 2200 so even if i get to 250hp, i almost double the factory power, and the 1nz is lighter with the turbo, than a 2zz.

[speedworxs]

#1, combustion chamber (obviously) just soften some of the edges, and shine it so carbon won't stick
#2 intake port* this port is actually really well done. i admit i'm no expert, but it is clean and straight. no bad bumps or curves. minor cleaning to the casting flashes, the injector bung and the throat/bowl before the valve is all that i think is really necessary on the intake side.
#3 intake from top, again not much to really see.

after i clean the head with some solvent, generally get really high on cleaner solution (and make outrageous horsepower claims), i will take some pics of the exhaust port. which i believe is the exact opposite of the intake... it's too small, has a bump immediately after the valve, and like many toyotas in general, just not a high performance exhaust port (not insulting, meant works fine in factory condition)

[thebarber]

My buddy Evilthorne has a supercharged 2zz spyder in Kitchener ON. He's mention some spyder guys like to go 1nz...i dont get it, but the engines are generally crazy reliable.

[enviri]

He's mention some spyder guys like to go 1nz...i dont get it, but the engines are generally crazy reliable.

lotus philosophy, add lightness!

[speedworxs]

ordered my rods this weekend,
H-Beam Connecting Rods for Toyota 1NZ 140.9mm Rod
(https://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-H-Beam-Connecting-Rods-for-Toyota-1NZ-140-9mm-Rod-Length-4PCS/140936903322?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.S EED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D51376%26meid%3De735b72abdaa41 b4bdf28bdb7f35be91%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3 D15%26sd%3D122773850824%26itm%3D140936903322&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A118dbf72-41ad-11e8-9be7-74dbd1807d1c%7Cparentrq%3Acff2d7911620a8840f11a286 fff7186c%7Ciid%3A1)when they get here, bring to machine shop to make the 18mm wrist pin up to 19mm (then can use honda pistons, which are cheap and plentiful)

[speedworxs]

cleaning my old block and head,
ghetto style hot tank !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VaVGwAJVffY

this container,
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/nesting-tote-blue-63-l-0424608p.html
this heater, i'm in an apt, cant do the outdoor stove submersible heater (https://www.bedbathandbeyond.ca/store/product/portable-immersion-heater/1011091717?skuId=11091717&mrkgcl=610&mrkgadid=3250948071&rkg_id=h-1cb768d4bf748376fb9e68e6071fd169_t-1524699638&mcid=PS_googlepla_nonbrand__&product_id=11091717CA&adpos=1o1&creative=258647313483&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiPqh4czW2gIVFZ7ACh22mAQTEAYYASAB EgLpbPD_BwE)
this solvent
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simple-Green-1-Gal-Concentrated-All-Purpose-Cleaner-2730103613005/100060853
pics to follow tomorrow, got my rods in the mail (also pics tomorrow)

[atomic_hoji]

:w00t: Like the video, curious if you'll get solid results with the little electric heater..

Recommend being cautious with solvents and aluminium.. I trashed an old carb using a generic solvent (damned if I can remember which one, but it was a common household cleanser) - came out clean, but was brittle and pitted. I realise a cylinder head is a lot more solid, beefy hunk of material, but may be better to find an aluminium safe solvent.

While aluminium prefers more neutral pH, caustics are that much worse than acids it seems.. https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DWnPrtYUKke8&ved=0ahUKEwjF4d713NbaAhWE3oMKHX8rBOIQwqsBCC8wAg&usg=AOvVaw13i2PT4w0F5fs27iRRH7K7 Clearly extreme, but thought it was a fun video. :biggrin:

Would hate to see you end up with cylinder head damage or a failure down the road.

-- Adam

[speedworxs]

yeah, caustic solution is only for iron and steel . but aluminium i just used degreaser.
the parts so far are fairly clean. still had to brush the head in ports, but a pretty good solution.
also, cool video with coke cans.

[atomic_hoji]

Ya, crazy what the extreme pHs will do to a metal!

Glad to hear it's working. Did the electric heater get it up to temp in decent time and sustain a good, hot temp while soaking?

Looking forward to pics!

-- Adam

[speedworxs]

i left the block and head in for a long time, like 6 hrs for the head and almost 24 for the block. the heater does ok, it keeps it warm and such, but not instantaneous . and since its almost 50L of solution, it stays warm when you unplug it.
i will add pics later, as my work comp isn't uploading them...
got it. and after drying, wiped down the bores with wd40
(as much as my gigantic hands would fit in this tiny bore)

[CrankyOldMan]

yeah, caustic solution is only for iron and steel . but aluminium i just used degreaser.

I've been struggling with which degreaser to use on my aluminium castings as well. Things like Simple Green are caustic, but low concentrations and immediate rinsing will limit the damage.

I'm making an aqueous (water-based) hot wash from an old laundry sink and an immersion bucket heater. That's for steel and cast iron stuff. The aluminium will almost all go into an industrial style parts washer with naphtha-based solvent.

[speedworxs]

yeah, i didn't use degreaser, it was just cleaner but i think the warm temp and sitting for several hours helps.
didn't seem to affect the machined surfaces.

[speedworxs]

mixed news...
my rods showed up, from cxracing on ebay. (draw your own conclusions)
rod is slightly different than the ebay pic, but they are all within 1 gram of each other, and clearly much better than a stock rod.
BUT
didn't include rod bolts, so i have to source them.
and the wrist pin end, is looking too small to machine any larger to accept vitara pistons - then i may just get the forged ones for a 1nz, but will talk to machinist first.

[atomic_hoji]

Thanks for the feedback - have to keep that little electric heater setup in mind. Looks like the all purpose cleaner did a decent job.. nice clean block to start a build with :thumbsup:

Is it weird to say 'nice rods' ... just sayin'. lol

Good luck with it. Looking forward to progress on this little monster..

-- Adam

[speedworxs]

bummer - had to go different piston route than i previously planned.
found a chinese supplier, i can get forged ones for almost the same price as vitara pistons.
if they turn out to be decent quality, i'll share the info- if it turns out to be garbage, then i learned a lesson

[SirDigby]

...i don't think you're getting that 400hp


but i'm rooting for you

[speedworxs]

thats ok, i still want to say, 300+ is achievable

[speedworxs]

bought my forged pistons today, i'll post the company if they don't turn out s**tty.
50$ for 4 pistons (plus shipping to north america)

[DarkShadowFox]

idk this is the garbage guide from wiki motors:

"A TRD turbokit for 1NZ is up for grabs. It will allow significantly increasing the stock engine’s capacity. You can assemble such a kit on your own. You should only get an IHI RHF4 turbocharger or something like that. It is also needed to get a turbo manifold, pipes, intercooler, blow-off, thick cylinder head gasket, 2ZZ-GE injectors, 1JZ-GTE fuel pump, and ECU 1NZ-FET/GReddy e-Manage Ultimate. At 9 psi (0.6 bar) boost pressure your motor shows about 150-160 horsepower.
If it’s needed to intensify capacity, you must get forged pistons, connecting rods and lots of other aftermarket parts. In any case, a 1.5-liter engine is not at all designed for setting records.
Besides, one can perform NA tuning, get performance camshafts (JUN), springs, valves, cold air intake, do port and polish, replace the intake manifold, throttle body, purchase a 4-2-1 header, and adjust the ECU. These upgrades help us intensify maximal engine rpm and reach higher rate of capacity. "

[atomic_hoji]

The 1NZ is a stout little bugger so I imagine if you put the resources to building it up you can make your target - besides, there are videos of 500+ hp 1NZs out there, so we know it can be done. :biggrin:

Keep us posted as you collect your parts!

-- Adam

[speedworxs]

apparently shipping is mucho quick in china, the delivery is here already! but i'm at work so can't pick up until tomorrow, pics to follow

[WeeYari]

apparently shipping is mucho quick in china, the delivery is here already!

Consider yourself lucky. Very lucky. Must have been a container full up and ready to go, rather than wait for a shipment to be large enough to leave port.



Sent from my Elite_5_5_Octa using Tapatalk

[DarkShadowFox]

can we have the ebay link to the china turbo.

[speedworxs]

i haven't bought a turbo yet. but i was going to go a gt2860
heres one, but i wanted to go ball bearing. the larger turbo, the bb will help offset some lag i hope.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GT28-GT25-GT2871-GT2860-T25-T28-SR20-CA18DET-Upgrade-Turbo-Turbocharger-400HP/253293523495?hash=item3af9787227:g:UrsAAOSwi8xaJPt m
the rods from cxracing (ebay) and the pistons from alibaba. weirdly you can find all kinds of s**t on that site. i even found a forged billet crank for the 1nz
some things are likely already made in china anyway, so whatever....
but i'll trust my rings from a name brand, and same with the main and rod bearings

if someone wants a turbo too... apparently 2 is minimum order,
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/GT2571RS-ball-bearing-turbo-for-special_206161833.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.3 01.4b1f778b9xZadP

[speedworxs]

Consider yourself lucky. Very lucky. Must have been a container full up and ready to go, rather than wait for a shipment to be large enough to leave port.



Sent from my Elite_5_5_Octa using Tapatalk

came in DHL shipment. but i know what you mean.
pistons 50usd, shipping 48, +taxes 20. hopefully i didn't misinterpret the emails and it is a whole set not just one piston. then i will feel pretty dumb

[speedworxs]

D'OH !
pretty sure that i got cast instead of forged. anyone know how to tell? what is the weight of a factory cast piston, this one is 201gm~

[speedworxs]

new vs stock(has the rod i haven't removed yet) in case you couldn't tell

:mad:pretty sure not forged.... but i'll at least balance them and use them , i mean. i paid for them

[DarkShadowFox]

forged with spraypaint.

[speedworxs]

forged with spraypaint.

:laugh:
perhaps i'll try to wash them with varsol

[Tima122]

Покупайте у Tom Molnar

[Tima122]

http://www.molnartechnologies.com

[speedworxs]

i have to say , one of my favorite parts of globalization, is that we can find things that 20yrs ago would never have been possible.
found a cam manufacturer 9.5mm lift, and drop in , so if anyone wants to check it out, only 450$ FOR THE PAIR
https://www.facebook.com/BQ-X-SKTK-Performance-อะไหล่ซิ่ง-527524227419480/

[DarkShadowFox]

:laugh:
perhaps i'll try to wash them with varsol

dont forget your headbulb grease.

[speedworxs]

so far, from what i can tell.
if i go with toyota factory bearings, for the crank and rods, those are one of the most expensive components. and the number code etc... f**k it, i'll go for standard bearings off ebay

[DarkShadowFox]

so far, from what i can tell.
if i go with toyota factory bearings, for the crank and rods, those are one of the most expensive components. and the number code etc... f**k it, i'll go for standard bearings off ebay

why dont you just go with a forged aftermarket crank and rods????

[speedworxs]

i do have forged rods, but the crank is the stock piece.
toyota oem bearings, for the crank., was going to be 250ish and 6 week wait, from japan

[atomic_hoji]

The 1NZ is common enough there must be decent quality aftermarket support for bearings, etc.. A quick RockAuto search shows Mahle/Celvite set of main bearings for ~$50, ~$40 for con. rod set - have to buy single pairs for Mahle/Clevite. About half the cost if you go with EngineTech or ITM stuff.

Just FYI.. When you're throwing boost at it, at least you'll have a decent brand vs. super cheap eBay - although who knows, you may find a great deal on a good brand via eBay too! :biggrin:

Looking forward to the build!
-- Adam

[speedworxs]

this is the last purchase for me, ok, latest one.
https://ebay.com/itm/MAIN-BIG-END-BEARING-SET-TOYOTA-1NZ-FE-2NZ-FE-FOR-COROLLA-AURIS-PREMIO-YARIS/182523214176?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
but i meant the number codes on toyota cranks and mains, 1-5 for the crank and similar on the block. i figured the difference in bore on the main journal was .0005 on the main between numbers so i hope (fingers crossed) that i can only notice low oil pressure. ..
if not , i'll get actual toyota bearing next round (and forged pistons too)

[speedworxs]

well, got my aem fic 6 in the mail.
pillaged a factory ecu from the wrecker to build my own harness between car and ecu.
turns out , can re-use the factory mr2 wires for the 1nz, so reusing the factory harness is going to make my task much easier... install the fic on my 1zz, learn to tune etc, and then when i put in my turbo 1nz, i'm less likely to destroy it

[CrankyOldMan]

well, got my aem fic 6 in the mail.
pillaged a factory ecu from the wrecker to build my own harness between car and ecu.
turns out , can re-use the factory mr2 wires for the 1nz, so reusing the factory harness is going to make my task much easier... install the fic on my 1zz, learn to tune etc, and then when i put in my turbo 1nz, i'm less likely to destroy it

Awesome! Maybe some pics along the way?

[speedworxs]

some photos.
1.ported intake
2,3,4.ported/softened combustion chamber (hopefully lower compression a point or two)
5.notched block for rod clearance
6. repinning connection to make patch harness

ps, wish these pics were even bigger, you could count the atoms.. sigh

[speedworxs]

well... sh**
i talked to the machine shop and the pistons and rods i have are not going to work together. on stock rods the pistons would work fine... but not the rods i am using .
upside, ordered weisco forged pistons, rings, pins and clips for a decent price ($800cdn)
9:1 compression, so i can at least run 15+ lbs, but takes the budget aspect out of my build...

[DarkShadowFox]

well... sh**
i talked to the machine shop and the pistons and rods i have are not going to work together. on stock rods the pistons would work fine... but not the rods i am using .
upside, ordered weisco forged pistons, rings, pins and clips for a decent price ($800cdn)
9:1 compression, so i can at least run 15+ lbs, but takes the budget aspect out of my build...

i think aftermarket rods require a bore. eitherway the stock rods will not hold up past 5psi of boost supercharged or turbo.

[atomic_hoji]

Sorry to hear they didn't match up for ya...

^ I think he means by going with the Wiseco piston setup those will pair with the CXRacing forged rods (vs. Wiseco and stock rods).

Two steps forward and one step back is still going forward - albeit more slowly.. lol. Keep at it man, can't wait to see the results.

-- Adam

[speedworxs]

upside, i can finish porting my cylinder head
reassemble over the fall/winter and then play with the tuning (fic6)
turbo size is my next one- likely t28 size so i don't have terrible lag

[speedworxs]

i was researching parts and stumbled on to this page... x b god ?
not sure if its the same guy (but pretty sure)
some of the engine parts look familiar, and the style he answers posts...
but this page hasn't been active in a while

https://www.facebook.com/One-Nz-Fe-Racing-133763636773500/

admittedly, i haven't been on here in a while either, :-(

get my block back in a couple weeks, and have decided to replace my head (i had ported some thinking i would have a very high factory pistons. since my pistons are 8.8:1 i'll go back to the factory head so keep some compression ...
and as i was porting one cylinder, f**ked up my valve seat. oops

[DarkShadowFox]

i was researching parts and stumbled on to this page... x b god ?
not sure if its the same guy (but pretty sure)
some of the engine parts look familiar, and the style he answers posts...
but this page hasn't been active in a while

https://www.facebook.com/One-Nz-Fe-Racing-133763636773500/

admittedly, i haven't been on here in a while either, :-(

get my block back in a couple weeks, and have decided to replace my head (i had ported some thinking i would have a very high factory pistons. since my pistons are 8.8:1 i'll go back to the factory head so keep some compression ...
and as i was porting one cylinder, f**ked up my valve seat. oops

1nz on XB and yaris are similar but kinda different. results may vary.

[tmontague]

i was researching parts and stumbled on to this page... x b god ?
not sure if its the same guy (but pretty sure)
some of the engine parts look familiar, and the style he answers posts...
but this page hasn't been active in a while

https://www.facebook.com/One-Nz-Fe-Racing-133763636773500/

admittedly, i haven't been on here in a while either, :-(

get my block back in a couple weeks, and have decided to replace my head (i had ported some thinking i would have a very high factory pistons. since my pistons are 8.8:1 i'll go back to the factory head so keep some compression ...
and as i was porting one cylinder, f**ked up my valve seat. oops

Avoid any posts by xb God, he was useful for vaporware and nothing else. Never any real world data or proof, nothing but flashy pics and talk. Essentially great if you are building a fictional show car, but useless for a var that is actually driven

[Tima122]

+

[DarkShadowFox]

Avoid any posts by xb God, he was useful for vaporware and nothing else. Never any real world data or proof, nothing but flashy pics and talk. Essentially great if you are building a fictional show car, but useless for a var that is actually driven

check out my turbo i bolted in but didnt bolt up guys.

[speedworxs]

well,...
i'm not a poser like xb, but i got laid off in december. then had to put the 1nz plans to the back of the list. but upside, got a new job. making money again - hurrah
so, will start moving on that again.
just so i don't look like i disappeared... turns out life is an expensive hobby (especially when unemployed :laugh:)