Lowering springs on stock shocks? 1 inch?

[BennyLava]

Hi all. Looking to finally lower my 09 Yaris Sedan. But I only want to go down about 1 inch, or 25.5mm. Will this be a problem on stock shocks? I don't know how low you can actually go using stock shocks/struts. Well the front 2 are KYB brand replacements, but they're meant to be like stock according to KYB. Lastly, which springs would you use for this task?

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Best bet is probably TRD or Eibach springs.

[BennyLava]

Not gonna harm the shocks or the ride any? I was trying to make sure I avoid messing up the shocks/struts.

[sickpuppy1]

I have Tanabe DF210 springs on my 2010 sedan. It gives about a 2 inch drop, which is ok except on some speed bumps in parking lots, and even then I'm ok as long as I go slow.
The NF210 is about 1-1.5 inch drop and rides a little better so they say. Mine is slightly stiffer than stock,but not bad at all. I love them!! Oh and I'm on stock 185/65-15 tires

[fourbangingfun]

I lowered my 07 Sedan at 130k miles. Dropped it 2” on stock struts with Tein S springs. I’m at 212k miles now with no issues whatsoever. DROP IT!!!

[thebarber]

TRD or Eibach Prokits will work well with stock shocks. I wouldn't forsee any abnormal wear.

[BennyLava]

All this does is change the height, right? Do I need to get an alignment afterwards? Have toe/camber adjusted? Again trying to do only the 1 inch.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Not gonna harm the shocks or the ride any? I was trying to make sure I avoid messing up the shocks/struts.

All this does is change the height, right? Do I need to get an alignment afterwards? Have toe/camber adjusted? Again trying to do only the 1 inch.


Any lowering spring will alter the ride quality as they're stiffer springs compared to the OEM springs. Also, any lowering springs will reduce the lifespan of the dampers (shocks). So if your car already has some higher mileage to them, you'll have to pull out the suspension twice (once for installing the springs, and another to replace the dampers when they blow).

Any adjustment to the ride height will require an alignment afterwards. Only the front of the Yaris is adjustable. The rear are not unless you use shims.

If all you're looking for is an inch drop and you have higher miles on the car (means most likely the dampers are nearing the end of their life), I would suggest getting some basic coilovers like the Tein Basis Z. They're basic coilovers in that they don't have dampening adjustment, but at least the dampers are valved/paired correctly for the spring rate. And you can dial in just how much lowering you want (within the range it provides, which is a little under an inch min to a little under 2 inches max).

[ern-diz]

Any lowering spring will alter the ride quality as they're stiffer springs compared to the OEM springs. Also, any lowering springs will reduce the lifespan of the dampers (shocks). So if your car already has some higher mileage to them, you'll have to pull out the suspension twice (once for installing the springs, and another to replace the dampers when they blow).

Any adjustment to the ride height will require an alignment afterwards. Only the front of the Yaris is adjustable. The rear are not unless you use shims.

If all you're looking for is an inch drop and you have higher miles on the car (means most likely the dampers are nearing the end of their life), I would suggest getting some basic coilovers like the Tein Basis Z. They're basic coilovers in that they don't have dampening adjustment, but at least the dampers are valved/paired correctly for the spring rate. And you can dial in just how much lowering you want (within the range it provides, which is a little under an inch min to a little under 2 inches max).

While technically completely true, there are examples in this thread, myself included, of folks that have lowered up to 2" with stock struts/shocks and gotten mileage out of it. I just had my car in at Toyota for regular maintenance. I thought for sure they were going to tell me mine were leaking but they are doing well and I've been lowered for a few years now.

Additionally, I prefer the ride quality after lowering with Tein S. Tech springs than when running stock springs. The Tein's offer a progressive spring rate so it's very nice around town and then sits down under heaving turning. I agree that the Tein Basic's are a good option, but if someone is looking at the budget and has functioning factory shocks/struts, I wouldn't be that concerned about lowering with springs and keeping the OEM shocks/struts for a while.

Just my 2 cents.

[BennyLava]

The rear are not unless you use shims.

Would this be needed? Should I use shims? The last thing I want is improper tire wear on my new tires.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

While technically completely true, there are examples in this thread, myself included, of folks that have lowered up to 2" with stock struts/shocks and gotten mileage out of it. I just had my car in at Toyota for regular maintenance. I thought for sure they were going to tell me mine were leaking but they are doing well and I've been lowered for a few years now.

Additionally, I prefer the ride quality after lowering with Tein S. Tech springs than when running stock springs. The Tein's offer a progressive spring rate so it's very nice around town and then sits down under heaving turning. I agree that the Tein Basic's are a good option, but if someone is looking at the budget and has functioning factory shocks/struts, I wouldn't be that concerned about lowering with springs and keeping the OEM shocks/struts for a while.

Just my 2 cents.

I'm riding on S.Tech with OEM dampers with Dory. Doesn't handle as well as the same springs on TRD dampers (what I had on the sedan). I'm experiencing more understeer, and this is with better tires too.

That's why I also mentioned about having higher miles since buying springs and then having to buy dampers may end up costing close to those Tein Basis Z coilovers, especially if labor is being paid twice to remove the suspension. If it's on the lower mileage side, like me with Dory, I'd just throw on springs, granted I already had the springs laying around. lol.

With that said, with a little under 40k miles since putting the springs on, I believe my rear dampers are going out on Dory. Once they do blow, I'll get a set of Tein Flex Z and give the S.Tech's away.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Would this be needed? Should I use shims? The last thing I want is improper tire wear on my new tires.

Don't think so. Even with the S.Tech springs (lowers about 2 inches), my rear were still within OEM spec tolerance.

[ern-diz]

I'm riding on S.Tech with OEM dampers with Dory. Doesn't handle as well as the same springs on TRD dampers (what I had on the sedan). I'm experiencing more understeer, and this is with better tires too.

That's why I also mentioned about having higher miles since buying springs and then having to buy dampers may end up costing close to those Tein Basis Z coilovers, especially if labor is being paid twice to remove the suspension. If it's on the lower mileage side, like me with Dory, I'd just throw on springs, granted I already had the springs laying around. lol.

With that said, with a little under 40k miles since putting the springs on, I believe my rear dampers are going out on Dory. Once they do blow, I'll get a set of Tein Flex Z and give the S.Tech's away.

Since I don't track my car, I've been thinking about replacing my OEM shocks/struts with Bilstein shocks/struts when they eventually blow. I've been hearing that a good set of springs and shocks/struts can outperform the value level coil overs. Not sure how much truth there is to that, but I've heard it from several sources now.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Since I don't track my car, I've been thinking about replacing my OEM shocks/struts with Bilstein shocks/struts when they eventually blow. I've been hearing that a good set of springs and shocks/struts can outperform the value level coil overs. Not sure how much truth there is to that, but I've heard it from several sources now.

Very much true, but it is best to see if those dampers are valved for the S.Tech drop and spring rate. They might be overly firm for them. Haha. Rebound might be too firm. I don't track my cars either, but drive on some really sh itty roads.

[ern-diz]

Very much true, but it is best to see if those dampers are valved for the S.Tech drop and spring rate. They might be overly firm for them. Haha. Rebound might be too firm. I don't track my cars either, but drive on some really sh itty roads.

Good to know, thank you.

[WeeYari]

For a mere 1" drop, just swap in the new springs. No real need to worry about dampers, shims, camber, toe, etc.

Sent from my Elite_5_5_Octa using Tapatalk

[BennyLava]

Thanks all! I'll post pics when I'm done. I've inherited this car as a new work car. Yaris is now actually mine full time. So I'm gonna mod it to my liking.

That said, what headlights are high quality enough to replace the oem ones? The car is that black metallic color, so dark colored headlights wouldn't be unwelcome. Just don't want to end up with some cheap junk.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Thanks all! I'll post pics when I'm done. I've inherited this car as a new work car. Yaris is now actually mine full time. So I'm gonna mod it to my liking.

That said, what headlights are high quality enough to replace the oem ones? The car is that black metallic color, so dark colored headlights wouldn't be unwelcome. Just don't want to end up with some cheap junk.

I think everything is probably going to be junk. If you want better headlights, you'll have to do a retrofit. Check out The Retrofit Source. The Mini H1 or Mini D2S projectors is probably your best bet.

[BennyLava]

Well to clarify, I was referring mainly to stuff that wouldn't leak and were somewhat durable when it comes to hazing over after a year or two. Although I think I've found a way to permanently defeat the hazy headlights. Applying this sealer once per year:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17804-Clear-Headlight-Coating/dp/B01M4RVVX6

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Well to clarify, I was referring mainly to stuff that wouldn't leak and were somewhat durable when it comes to hazing over after a year or two. Although I think I've found a way to permanently defeat the hazy headlights. Applying this sealer once per year:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17804-Clear-Headlight-Coating/dp/B01M4RVVX6


Def stay away from aftermarket headlights then. Those tend to have over much quicker.

I just wax my headlights every so often to help prevent them from hazing.

[BennyLava]

Also, any lowering springs will reduce the lifespan of the dampers (shocks). So if your car already has some higher mileage to them, you'll have to pull out the suspension twice (once for installing the springs, and another to replace the dampers when they blow).


Would you say that the Tein Basis Z kit, offers a ride quality similar to stock? This is possible because I was able to get a stock-ish ride quality when I lowered my mustang. Its only slightly stiffer if at all. Sometimes it feels like it is, other times it feels like its the same as it was when it was stock. Hard to tell. That's what I'd like for the Yaris if I can get it.



I just wax my headlights every so often to help prevent them from hazing.

I don't know if you have run into this before, but it looks like you can only wax so many times before they crack. If you're referring to the abrasive type where you skim off a top layer of plastic to reveal the clear stuff underneath. I have done this before on my yaris, and ended up finally just getting a new headlight. But this was years ago. The same thing happened on my friend's F150. They'd haze over, and we'd buff them out. Did this about 3 times over a 5 year period, and one of them finally cracked. We weren't putting insane pressure on them or anything. I think we just finally thinned them out more than the plastic could take.

I highly recommend that Megiuars headlight sealer. I buffed the Yaris's headlights clear, then applied it. Made them look new after I put it on. You're supposed to apply it once a year to keep them from hazing.

[aldorei]

Hey buddies, i just register my self to yarisworld, i've searching info, but there's any clue on web about springs swap, you see, i just bought this 2002 Yaris XP10, recently adding some muscle on it, it came with 2ZN but i just swapped for a 1ZN-FE, no boost, nos charge, just another engine.

After 3 weeks of walkaround, its claiming for a suspension upgrade, i was looking for an set of aftermarket coil springs, but i just cannot find any, so, today i found this guy who is selling me a set of TRD springs, the doubt appears comparing to my set of oem springs, cuz, those TRD says that it's for XP90/XP130, please, let me know if these TRD fit on my XP10, it seems great, i think that it fit. Can i use XP90 TRD Springs on my XP10? i really apreciate your comments. :thumbsup: