robkay
08-27-2018, 12:39 AM
I don’t know whether anyone has any interest in improving the stock audio in their Yaris anymore. A couple years ago I couldn’t live with the stock audio in my ‘07 hatchback anymore, so I decided to at least replace the front speakers. I’ve been meaning to share the way I went about it for some time, so here it is. I saw some amazing things that people did, but this is not a major kind of upgrade that is going to blow your mind. This is more along the lines of a budget upgrade, just the front speakers, but the results were worth the effort.
So, I started to look into speakers and when I saw that the fronts are 6.5" it dawned on me that I just might have a nice pair of Yamaha coaxials that I had bought for a previous car (and removed when sold). Sure enough, they had been packed away, setting on a shelf for years. I knew they were pretty good speakers in their day, so I decided to try those. I bought the Metra mounting rings and harness connectors suggested for the Yaris.
I had read about sound deadening materials for the door cavity and ran into a video on Youtube where a guy used Frost King foil backed self adhesive foam sheet, so I decided to go with that (I told you this was a budget job). Not fully trusting the self adhesive for the long term, I applied some metal HVAC tape around the perimeter. One guy in a Youtube video opines that 99% of the effectiveness of sound deadening material is achieved by treating just 25-30% of the door, particularly behind the speaker. I’m sure this is something that is arguable, but I’m not going to. I decided to go with that.
http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad279/robertmbg/Yaris%20audio%20upgrade/InsideCavity1b.png
I was concerned about water dripping in and damaging the speakers, so I made a pair of deflectors out of Folgers plastic coffee cans. (The OEM speaker assembly has such a shroud built in.) I glued them in place above the speakers with 3M Emblem Adhesive.
http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad279/robertmbg/Yaris%20audio%20upgrade/Deflector1c.png
A little additional trimming done and glued in place over speaker opening (the yellow to the right).
http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad279/robertmbg/Yaris%20audio%20upgrade/DeflectorInstalled1b.png
As far as covering the large access cutout in the door I saw a lot of ideas, from plywood to other materials. I decided to go with a simple piece of sheet metal–not the thin gauge stuff like you get at Lowes for residential ductwork. I went to a sheet metal shop and bought some heavier gauge sheet metal that I could still cut with tin snips. I first made templates out of cardboard, then traced on to the sheet metal. Next, cut them out and used my Dremel to smooth the burrs. I bought a can of Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing spray and sprayed the cut edges to help retard rust.
Before installing the cover I applied some thin, black foam tape around the perimeter to act as a sealing gasket and to prevent the metal from buzzing. I had to be very cognizant of the screw lengths due to the moving mechanism and window glass. Also applied a dot of thread lock on the screws.
http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad279/robertmbg/Yaris%20audio%20upgrade/PanelCloseUp1c.png
http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad279/robertmbg/Yaris%20audio%20upgrade/BeforeDroppingPlastic1b.png
After screwing the metal cover in place, I then covered it with the Frost King sheet. I also covered most other openings and holes with scraps of the Frost King sheet. (The foil peels off, so you will note that in a few spots.)
I should add that a gasket was also needed between the front face of the speaker (around the perimeter) and the interior door panel (something I had overlooked and not planned for, but caught). For this I used Frost King R534H minimum compression, 3/4" wide, 5/16" thick foam weatherstripping. (This is another thing that the stock speaker assembly has built into it.) You can see it applied in the pic below.
http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad279/robertmbg/Yaris%20audio%20upgrade/FinalProduct1a.png
As regards the end result, after almost 2-1/2 years nothing is rattling and there are no scratches on the glass, so I guess I did OK. I had in the back of my mind that I might eventually do the rear speakers, too. But, as it turned out, the stock rears seem to project bass better than the stock fronts did, so I set the fade control to emphasize the bass from the rear speakers. The front speakers now sound SO MUCH BETTER that I am very happy with the overall result. I actually love listening to music in the car now. Sure, I’d like some lower end bass, but I don’t plan to change out the receiver, so it probably isn’t feasible to wire in a subwoofer big enough to really make much difference.
So, good, bad, or otherwise (I know there are probably better ways to do some of the things I did), this was how I went about my budget front speaker upgrade.
So, I started to look into speakers and when I saw that the fronts are 6.5" it dawned on me that I just might have a nice pair of Yamaha coaxials that I had bought for a previous car (and removed when sold). Sure enough, they had been packed away, setting on a shelf for years. I knew they were pretty good speakers in their day, so I decided to try those. I bought the Metra mounting rings and harness connectors suggested for the Yaris.
I had read about sound deadening materials for the door cavity and ran into a video on Youtube where a guy used Frost King foil backed self adhesive foam sheet, so I decided to go with that (I told you this was a budget job). Not fully trusting the self adhesive for the long term, I applied some metal HVAC tape around the perimeter. One guy in a Youtube video opines that 99% of the effectiveness of sound deadening material is achieved by treating just 25-30% of the door, particularly behind the speaker. I’m sure this is something that is arguable, but I’m not going to. I decided to go with that.
http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad279/robertmbg/Yaris%20audio%20upgrade/InsideCavity1b.png
I was concerned about water dripping in and damaging the speakers, so I made a pair of deflectors out of Folgers plastic coffee cans. (The OEM speaker assembly has such a shroud built in.) I glued them in place above the speakers with 3M Emblem Adhesive.
http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad279/robertmbg/Yaris%20audio%20upgrade/Deflector1c.png
A little additional trimming done and glued in place over speaker opening (the yellow to the right).
http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad279/robertmbg/Yaris%20audio%20upgrade/DeflectorInstalled1b.png
As far as covering the large access cutout in the door I saw a lot of ideas, from plywood to other materials. I decided to go with a simple piece of sheet metal–not the thin gauge stuff like you get at Lowes for residential ductwork. I went to a sheet metal shop and bought some heavier gauge sheet metal that I could still cut with tin snips. I first made templates out of cardboard, then traced on to the sheet metal. Next, cut them out and used my Dremel to smooth the burrs. I bought a can of Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing spray and sprayed the cut edges to help retard rust.
Before installing the cover I applied some thin, black foam tape around the perimeter to act as a sealing gasket and to prevent the metal from buzzing. I had to be very cognizant of the screw lengths due to the moving mechanism and window glass. Also applied a dot of thread lock on the screws.
http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad279/robertmbg/Yaris%20audio%20upgrade/PanelCloseUp1c.png
http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad279/robertmbg/Yaris%20audio%20upgrade/BeforeDroppingPlastic1b.png
After screwing the metal cover in place, I then covered it with the Frost King sheet. I also covered most other openings and holes with scraps of the Frost King sheet. (The foil peels off, so you will note that in a few spots.)
I should add that a gasket was also needed between the front face of the speaker (around the perimeter) and the interior door panel (something I had overlooked and not planned for, but caught). For this I used Frost King R534H minimum compression, 3/4" wide, 5/16" thick foam weatherstripping. (This is another thing that the stock speaker assembly has built into it.) You can see it applied in the pic below.
http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad279/robertmbg/Yaris%20audio%20upgrade/FinalProduct1a.png
As regards the end result, after almost 2-1/2 years nothing is rattling and there are no scratches on the glass, so I guess I did OK. I had in the back of my mind that I might eventually do the rear speakers, too. But, as it turned out, the stock rears seem to project bass better than the stock fronts did, so I set the fade control to emphasize the bass from the rear speakers. The front speakers now sound SO MUCH BETTER that I am very happy with the overall result. I actually love listening to music in the car now. Sure, I’d like some lower end bass, but I don’t plan to change out the receiver, so it probably isn’t feasible to wire in a subwoofer big enough to really make much difference.
So, good, bad, or otherwise (I know there are probably better ways to do some of the things I did), this was how I went about my budget front speaker upgrade.