diagnosed my clutch issues!

[Brettguy]

I've been having a vibrating clutch pedal and chirping/clicking that gets louder when the car heats up. This website mentions someone with the same exact symptoms and he had a misaligned bell housing! This echos what a local transmission specialist told me over the phone. I'm gonna start looking at options to get everything back in tolerance specs but it's starting to look simpler than I expected. Anyone have experience with bellhousing alignment? Again this all happened after a new clutch/flywheel install early this year

http://www.6-pack.org/vb5/the-6-pack-forums/car-repair-restoration-help/mechanical-repair-maintenance-restoration/511981-throw-out-bearing-here-we-go

The most confirming thing from this page was that the clicking worsened with heat, I really hope this is applies to me

[dogsridewith]

run the right front wheel up a shallow ramp and bleed the clutch slave cylinder

(thread title is a bit of a stretch)

[Brettguy]

Droning under load, loss of power, chattering while idling warm, it just all seems like driveline misalignement. The clickbait title was due to insomnia sorry lol. The clutch pedal itself doesn't feel spongy so I don't really follow how a slave cylinder bleed would affect it. Please send some info I want to learn as much as possible.

[dogsridewith]

Not saying you're wrong about the misalignment. Clutch bleed is easy to do. Air in the slave cylinder creates compliance, which can cause resonance/chatter.

I bled mine after reading here because the pedal had to go all the way to the floor before fully releasing the clutch. Bleeding brought the engagement up a little and produced some grit in the fluid. I recall forward engagement chatter reducing...still get some in reverse occasionally.

Search will produce a thread w/ some multi-step bleeding, but I just used a MityVac to pull some fluid from the clutch slave cylinder. Basic assistant-in-the-car method would be fine or even preferable...there I like getting the bleeder closed before the pedal gets all the way down. (While it is still producing fluid at the bleeder.)

This car also has sophisticated engine/trans mounts that may be hard to diagnose by simple vision.

[Brettguy]

thanks for the insight ill check the brake bleed option out, no reason to skip the lower cost options first for sure

[dogsridewith]

If someone else did the clutch/flywheel job, I'd mention these symptoms to them.
This sounds like something different and worse than air in the clutch hydraulics.