06YarisRS's 2ZR-FE Swap 5-Door Hatchback (Automatic Transmission)

[06YarisRS]

I have decided to give the swap a go. It is definitely beyond the scope of anything I have done mechanically, but I've aways wanted to change an engine and what a great bonus to be able to put a different and more powerful engine in a car. From what I gather, I'm in for an 'easier' swap as I plan to keep my auto transmission and my car is a pre-immobilizer build.

I have read all of the swap threads here on Yaris World by armstrong, tmontague, crankyoldman, atomic hoji, brushforhire several times, extensively searched the internet and read anything I could find about this swap, spoken to folks from NY to CA looking for parts.

By nature, I tend to overthink things. Naturally, I am appealing to the patient understanding and gentle nature of all those who have proceeded me in this worthwhile endeavour. :biggrin:


I have started to accumulate parts. Please, please let me know right away if you see anything amiss in my parts selections.

I started with the right side motor mount. Being frugal and all, rather than spend a couple hundred USD (over $400.00 in Canada) on a new OEM one (couldn't find a used one anywhere), I bought a new knock off mount (~$32.00 USD) and a used bracket (~$25.00) and associated bolts. I hope I don't come to regret the purchase of the mount, but it is surprisingly sturdy and seemingly well made.

Here is a link to the mount, but I take no responsibility if it ultimately turns out to be a piece of crap. Keep in mind that you'd have to source the bracket elsewhere. Also, note that there is no rubber cover on the mount. I'll try to fabricate and attach some kind of rubber cover. Or, just buy the actual OEM part complete with bracket. [UPDATE: DO NOT BUY THIS MOUNT, IT IS JUNK]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Right-Mount-For-2008-2009-2013-Scion-xD-Engine-Motor-Mount-for-Automatic-Trans/392058607528?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://i.imgur.com/0R3S9KB.jpg

Edit (29 Sept) Mount with a little paint and bent bolt. I think the bracket was removed from the car with a backhoe. A chunk of the mount came along with it. Can't find a part number for the bolt as it's part of the whole OEM unit, so I'll take the bolt to a local auto parts store and match it up.

https://i.imgur.com/XlmctGw.jpg

A 2010 Scion xD Airbox, tube and MAF sensor
https://i.imgur.com/iPGr4KN.jpg

Airbox with a little TLC. Washed the box and removed rusty clamps/hardware, soaked them overnight in phosphoric acid, and a couple coats of cured VHT Flameproof. I hate rust.

https://i.imgur.com/LI9BfTd.jpg


I will be buying my engine (looking at a 2012 Scion and a 2011 Corolla, both with low 40K miles) , ECU and harness within a couple of days. After that, A/C compressor and alternator. The Scion will need a throttlebody as that was scavenged, the Corolla would need the timing cover bracket (Part# 12315-37040) and associated hardware.

My first technical question: In Tom Armstrong's swap thread, it refers to a 2008 - 2009 Scion xD ECU. As mentioned, I am looking at a 2012 Scion engine, ECU and harness all out of the same automatic car. Will the 2012 ECU work? or should I be looking for a 2008 - 2009 only ECU?

My second technical question Most of the used ECUs I looked at say that reprogramming may be necessary. Is this only related to the immobilizer? If I don't have an immobilizer, will the ECU be otherwise plug and play?

There is no definitive timeline on this project and I will have to try to make time around kiddie sports schedules/ family committments etc, though those have never really stopped me in the past. :laugh:

I will do my best to post pics and explain what I've done - including any and all blunders - as I go.

I'm going to add pricing to give people an idea of what it might cost in US dollars. I'm not including part numbers until I can confirm that they are indeed the correct part and function as I hope they do.

Items Purchased and Pricing (USD): I will keep adding to the list as I make my purchases.

New xD Passenger Side Mount* $31.38 (pic in this post) [I REPEAT: DO NOT BUY THIS MOUNT, IT IS JUNK]
2009 xD Passenger Side Mount Bracket** $35.00 (pic in this post)

New OEM Passenger Side Mount (12305-37091) $181.00 shipping included
2010 xD Airbox, Tube and MAF sensor $85.00 (pic in this post)
2008 ECU (Automatic) $17.59 (pic in post# 6)
2011 xD (Automatic) Engine Harness $140.00 (pic post#16, #76)
2011 Corolla 2ZR-FE $700.00 (pics in post #17, #75, #84)
New Timing cover mount bracket + hardware $107.00 with shipping (parts list in post#18)
2011 Corolla 1.8L alternator (local yard 42 000 kms) $58.06 (pic in post #41)
2010 Corolla A/C compressor $89.74 (pic in post #135)

Scion xD extra parts for:
Alternator, Radiator and engine mounting $73.39 with shipping (parts list post#32, post#114)
Scion xD mipdipe (Aftermarket - Eastern Catalytic) from Rock Auto $324.00
2014 Corolla Engine Cover - $19.30 (pic in post#118)


Running Total $1795.08

* This mount is not the full OEM mount of the same part number. It is missing the bracket.
** I could not find this part anywhere other than eBay.

[ern-diz]

Subscribed!

[atomic_hoji]

Awesome! :thumbsup: Congrats on taking the plunge!

Good score on those parts, I had very little luck when I was searching for the brackets, etc.. and just ended up buying from an online dealer. The airbox I did find actually cost as much or more than a CAI kit! :eek:

...

My first technical question: In Tom Armstrong's swap thread, it refers to a 2008 - 2009 Scion xD ECU. As mentioned, I am looking at a 2012 Scion engine, ECU and harness all out of the same automatic car. Will the 2012 ECU work? or should I be looking for a 2008 - 2009 only ECU?

My second technical question Most of the used ECUs I looked at say that reprogramming may be necessary. Is this only related to the immobilizer? If I don't have an immobilizer, will the ECU be otherwise plug and play?

There is no definitive timeline on this project and I will have to try to make time around kiddie sports schedules/ family committments etc, though those have never really stopped me in the past. :laugh:

I will do my best to post pics and explain what I've done - including any and all blunders - as I go.

Not having done the swap on a 2nd gen. I'll take a stab at this, but suspect one of the 2nd gen. guys will chime in.. If you haven't already, get the wiring diagrams for any and all models you are using - your Yaris, the Scion xD, and the Corolla. It will make life so much easier to know where the differences might bite you; which will inevitably happen.. lol

1. If you have everything from the 2ZR-FE and your Yaris uses the same autobox then I imagine the 2012 Scion xD ECM will work; small differences in connectors, etc.. can be confirmed via wiring diagram. The weirdness with the xDs starts in 2013 - when looking up parts you'll find 2008 - 2012, the 2013/2014s are often not listed. BUT, the engine harness will match the ECM, obviously, you just need to match the body harness to the ECM - again, I suspect you're ok as the weirdness starts post-2012..

2. The immobilizer and the VIN is the only "reprogramming" that come to mind. If you're getting the ECM Canada side and your Yaris doesn't have an immobilizer, just ensure that the 2012 ECM is also non-immobilizer. Since your Yaris doesn't have the immobilizer key and ECU to talk to the xD ECM, the xD ECM won't get a valid signal to allow the engine to start. I believe the guys who are running non-immobilizer ECMs have a work-around to avoid the immobilizer equipped Yaris' to talk to the non-immobilizer ECMs, but I'm not aware of a way to trick the immobilizer ECM into starting with a non-immobilizer vehicle... immobilizer-mobilize-mobile... too many immobilizerers... Anyhow, hope that makes sense... :biggrin:

Looking forward to seeing your progress!

-- Adam

[tmontague]

Welcome aboard!

No ecu reprogramming needed as long as you get a non immobilizer ecu. I reprogrammed the ECU VIN to match my original chassis vin so that less red flags were raised when it comes to e test out here in Ont. But it's not needed.

A 2012 should be fine as stated above as long as your it is a non immobilizer ecu.

The 2zr is a darn fine engine it is stupid reliable and has good area under the curve on a dyno- Toyota did well with this one I'm sure you will enjoy it.

[06YarisRS]

Thanks gentlemen! To pick up on a few points... Adam, thanks for the advice on the wiring diagrams. I will try to find those. You mention body harness? I thought that all I was concerned with was the engine harness. I know about the MAF requiring an alternate power source and the speed sensor wires that need to be switched over to the xD harness. I'm sourcing all parts for my non-immobilizer auto Yaris in the USA and will buy a 2008 - 2009 ECU (89661-52F71). The harness is where I'm struggling now.

From my research, the xD came in both auto and manual transmission. I have been unable to confirm if there is any physical differences between the harness for manual and automatic. I expect the plugs for transmission might be different? Every part number on eBay goes like this: 648.SC1D11 (with what appears to be the last 2 digits referencing the model year). I had asked Tom and he didn't think there were any differences, but when I asked him, I didn't specify auto vs manual. On toyotapartsdeal, there are several different harness part numbers for the xD automatic trans:
2008 - 2009 (P#82121-52F00)
2010 - 2012 (P#82121-52K00)
2013 - 2014 (P#82121-52K01) - Maybe all these parts are the same but just different naming due to the production year. (Recall that I said I overthink things :laugh:)

I don't want to pay ~$600.00 for a harness, so just trying to find a used one but all eBay listings use the 648.SC1xx format.

There is a harness and engine from a 2012 xD that I'm looking at and it is automatic. It is immobilizer so I can't use the ecu, but can I use the harness?

Right now, this is turning out to be the hardest part of parts procurement. I think once I get past this, it will smooth sailing, parts-wise. Should just need an ECU, throttlebody (and mounting hardware, gasket), alternator and A/C compressor. Planning to use my Yaris (cold climate) starter.

[06YarisRS]

Just scored my ECU (part#89661-52F71). Hopefully the static from buddy's carpet wont mess it up. Prices on eBay ranged from $17.59 (the one I bought) up to $100.00 +. They all looked in similar shape and all were 2008 - 2009, so I saw no point in paying more. This guy's warranty is 6 months, longer than most. And, it has a full bracket - not sure if that fits in the Yaris though.

https://i.imgur.com/bAnbSai.jpg

[tmontague]

Yup bracket is the exact same as the yaris ecu.

Iirc the auto trans harness would have different connectors than its m/t counterpart

[06YarisRS]

Yup bracket is the exact same as the yaris ecu.

Iirc the auto trans harness would have different connectors than its m/t counterpart

Great! Thanks Trevor. I've made an offer on the 2012 scion engine. Just waiting to hear back from him. The guy confirms that the harness is from the same car; an auto, has A/C (which I now believe was standard equipment on all xDs) but was immobilizer equipped. I'll continue researching if the harness he has will work. I suspect that it will but would rather be 100% sure. Right now my plan is to use our school shop on a weekend (Friday from 4:00pm through Sunday evening) and I'd really like to have it out of there by late Sunday and over to the local shop that's going to do my exhaust. The local shop owner is willing to come over and help out if I get into a bind. He would, of course, charge me for his time. He's worked on my cars in the past and I trust him.

[CrankyOldMan]

One of us! One of us! One of us!

Welcome to the cult--er, club! Looking forward to your build.

[tmontague]

An immobilizer harness should work no problem but the best bet is to pull the immobilizer pins front the connector that goes into the ecu just in case so this way the ecu has no chance that any signal for an immobilizer could be read

[06YarisRS]

One of us! One of us! One of us!

Welcome to the cult--er, club! Looking forward to your build.

Haha! Thanks Sam. Not in yet...not at least until I'm driving up and down the road in a 2ZR-FE-powered Yaris. But, I really do wanna join. :biggrin:

[06YarisRS]

An immobilizer harness should work no problem but the best bet is to pull the immobilizer pins front the connector that goes into the ecu just in case so this way the ecu has no chance that any signal for an immobilizer could be read

Ah, sounds like excellent advice. Whenever I get my harness and associated wiring diagram, I will endeavour to find those spots and see if there are any pins occupying them. If so, I will remove them. Thank you. I'd really still like to find out the differences - if any - between the auto engine harnesses.

[atomic_hoji]

One of us! One of us! One of us!

Welcome to the cult--er, club! Looking forward to your build.

LOL +1

Thanks gentlemen! To pick up on a few points... Adam, thanks for the advice on the wiring diagrams. I will try to find those. You mention body harness? I thought that all I was concerned with was the engine harness. ...

From my research, the xD came in both auto and manual transmission. ...

I don't want to pay ~$600.00 for a harness, so just trying to find a used one but all eBay listings use the 648.SC1xx format.

There is a harness and engine from a 2012 xD that I'm looking at and it is automatic. It is immobilizer so I can't use the ecu, but can I use the harness?

...

Yes.. Two harnesses plug into the ECM - one for the engine, which is basically a pile of wiring that 'drapes' over the engine and routes to all the sensors, etc.. and the bundle goes to a long, rectangular connector at the ECM. Then there's the body harness, which is how the ECM talks to the rest of the car, that routes around the engine bay and into the interior through a grommet up by the brake cylinder; this one has a smaller, square/rectangular connector at the ECM. You need the engine one to match your 2ZR (preferably with the engine and intact) and keep the body harness on your Yaris. <-- not being pedantic, just clear how I use the wording between the two... lol

Definitely try to get the engine harness associated with the engine, even if it needs a couple of connectors swapped those are $12-$20 or so each - just remember to sort it out and order once! The $22 shipping on a $16 connector hurts when you do it twice. lol :rolleyes: A bit of bravery for soldering or crimping may be required, but given you repainted your Yaris, I suspect you're up for the task. :thumbsup:

I just double checked, but on my 3rd gen., and I imagine the 2nd gen. as the key and chip ECU are inside the car, the immobilizer wiring is on the body harness, not the engine harness. So, even if that 2ZR from the xD was immobilizer equipped the engine harness won't have any of the immobilizer wiring... You are likely plug and play to an xD ECM (*ECM that matches MT/autobox) Where I ran into trouble is the connectors that interfaced from the engine harness to the junction box (J/B) - i.e. power and grounds, etc.. to the main J/B. That's where I ordered the Toyota connector and re-pinned to match the accepting connector in the main J/B on the Yaris.

If that ECM you scored is an autobox and non-immobilizer I think you're headed down the right path!

When you get the wiring diagrams, etc.. keep us posted, I'm sure everyone will be happy to clarify / peer check things for you. :thumbsup:

-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

LOL +1



Yes.. Two harnesses plug into the ECM - one for the engine, which is basically a pile of wiring that 'drapes' over the engine and routes to all the sensors, etc.. and the bundle goes to a long, rectangular connector at the ECM. Then there's the body harness, which is how the ECM talks to the rest of the car, that routes around the engine bay and into the interior through a grommet up by the brake cylinder; this one has a smaller, square/rectangular connector at the ECM. You need the engine one to match your 2ZR (preferably with the engine and intact) and keep the body harness on your Yaris. <-- not being pedantic, just clear how I use the wording between the two... lol

Definitely try to get the engine harness associated with the engine, even if it needs a couple of connectors swapped those are $12-$20 or so each - just remember to sort it out and order once! The $22 shipping on a $16 connector hurts when you do it twice. lol :rolleyes: A bit of bravery for soldering or crimping may be required, but given you repainted your Yaris, I suspect you're up for the task. :thumbsup:

I just double checked, but on my 3rd gen., and I imagine the 2nd gen. as the key and chip ECU are inside the car, the immobilizer wiring is on the body harness, not the engine harness. So, even if that 2ZR from the xD was immobilizer equipped the engine harness won't have any of the immobilizer wiring... You are likely plug and play to an xD ECM (*ECM that matches MT/autobox) Where I ran into trouble is the connectors that interfaced from the engine harness to the junction box (J/B) - i.e. power and grounds, etc.. to the main J/B. That's where I ordered the Toyota connector and re-pinned to match the accepting connector in the main J/B on the Yaris.

If that ECM you scored is an autobox and non-immobilizer I think you're headed down the right path!

When you get the wiring diagrams, etc.. keep us posted, I'm sure everyone will be happy to clarify / peer check things for you. :thumbsup:

-- Adam

Thanks Adam. A tiny setback...the seller listing the Scion xD engine informs me that he sold the harness that goes with that 2012 engine. Now I have to decide if I want that xD engine or the 2011 Corolla engine (which has the throttlebody but would need the timing cover bracket). Either way, this puts me in a position of having to decide which xD harness to buy. There are a couple available that are from automatics. I think I just need to buy one from an automatic and move forward. If I'm understanding you correctly, the immobilizer should not be an issue as its wiring in the BCM harness. Fact is, the number of available used harnesses is really limited and I've already seen a couple get sold.

I've just been over to TIS and watched parts of the tutorial. I guessing the EWD section in the library would contain what I'm looking for. This is new to me as the only wiring diagrams I've ever used were for such things as stereo installs. Would I be looking for pinout diagrams of the ECU. And, I assume there would be pinout diagrams for each plug on the harness?

And, yes, the ECU I bought from an 08 xD is for auto and non-immobilizer.

[tmontague]

Yes what Adam said is correct. Stop waiting and grab an a/t xd harness before they're all gone and you are stuck paying toyota prices for one! Keep your 1nz harness as many of the connectors are interchangeable and its helpful to have extra just in case

[06YarisRS]

Yes what Adam said is correct. Stop waiting and grab an a/t xd harness before they're all gone and you are stuck paying toyota prices for one! Keep your 1nz harness as many of the connectors are interchangeable and its helpful to have extra just in case

Done...I will order one tonight. Thank you!

Seller accepted my offer. Picked up a 2011 Auto xD harness (Part#82121-52K00).

https://i.imgur.com/a5xnIKE.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Bought Engine $700.00

Hope it makes it from Ohio in one piece.

2011 Toyota Corolla with 42000 miles. Rear collision, no front end damage.

Has intake manifold, exhaust manifold, throttlebody, flywheel, coils and even a harness, Anyone looking for a Corolla engine harness? :biggrin:

EDIT: Got the call today (28 Sept) from the seller confirming delivery address. Found out that they use their own shipper so I feel better about that. They said that if there is any damage it will be paid for.

https://i.imgur.com/HQKrGbs.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gh9OgGi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SFXeVQt.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/iFEHGl5.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Other Hardware.

Timing cover mount, 3 bolts and a nut

https://i.imgur.com/57zN3hD.jpg

[atomic_hoji]

:w00t: Looks awesome! I don't think you're "planning a swap" anymore - you're neck deep.. :biggrin:

...
I've just been over to TIS and watched parts of the tutorial. I guessing the EWD section in the library would contain what I'm looking for. This is new to me as the only wiring diagrams I've ever used were for such things as stereo installs. Would I be looking for pinout diagrams of the ECU. And, I assume there would be pinout diagrams for each plug on the harness?

Yes, all the EWDs you can grab! (And repair manual sections if you have time, esp. related to the 2ZR in the xD manual). The System Circuit diagrams are the best, but the Location ones are handy too, and the Overall ones are more technical when you need to dive in. ECM is included in ECS (Electronic Control System) in my 2018 Yaris, but the iM was under Cruise Control, so root around..

-- Adam

[tmontague]

Right on, engine looks to he in good shape.

Do yourself a favor when the engine is still out of the engine bay and easily accessible - remove as many bolts as you can and cover them in anti seize. Specifically the exhaust manifold bolts, intake manifold, fuel rail etc.

Also remove any hoses and spray silicone lube on the metal fitting/inside the end of the hose and re install. You have no idea how much easier this will make your job down the road if you ever have to remove anything.

[06YarisRS]

:w00t: Looks awesome! I don't think you're "planning a swap" anymore - you're neck deep.. :biggrin:



Yes, all the EWDs you can grab! (And repair manual sections if you have time, esp. related to the 2ZR in the xD manual). The System Circuit diagrams are the best, but the Location ones are handy too, and the Overall ones are more technical when you need to dive in. ECM is included in ECS (Electronic Control System) in my 2018 Yaris, but the iM was under Cruise Control, so root around..

-- Adam

Haha, I guess so... 'In for a dime, in for many dollars', If I can do this, exhaust included for under $2500 CAD, I'll be ecstatic.

I'll be honest. The thought of the diagrams frightens me LOL. But, I will get a short-term membership. I may come 'knocking on your door" for advice on the specific ones to get if I get into the system and become overwhelmed. :drool:

Thanks Adam.

[06YarisRS]

Right on, engine looks to he in good shape.

Do yourself a favor when the engine is still out of the engine bay and easily accessible - remove as many bolts as you can and cover them in anti seize. Specifically the exhaust manifold bolts, intake manifold, fuel rail etc.

Also remove any hoses and spray silicone lube on the metal fitting/inside the end of the hose and re install. You have no idea how much easier this will make your job down the road if you ever have to remove anything.

Yeah, it looks good from the outside. They said they "tested it and it ran good". That's a similar response to what I got from all the sellers I messaged.

Yes, I think I'll really enjoy playing with the engine before installation. My timing cover bracket is "on order" from the online Toyota Parts dealer, so I'll have a bit more time to do what you suggest regarding anti-seize/silicone. I also ordered a PCV valve (See...I'm listening! :clap:). Thought I'd install that before the engine is put in. I should be ok, right, not installing a catch can setup like you did? I won't driving the snot out of it.

I think you mentioned that you installed a Scion upper rad hose or filler neck, did you not? I really want an OEM look and will be searching for an engine cover. So far the ones I've seen online would require me to remortgage my house to acquire. Sometimes local pricing can surprise - in a good way. I'll keep looking around here. Q: If I keep the Yaris filler neck and rad hose, I wonder if the engine cover would fit? May have to just find out after.

Finally, and my apologies for the long-winded response... Your pics from your thread are gone, Photobucket, I presume. Wondering if you'd be amenable to zipping those up (if you still have them , of course) and firing them off to me in an email. I'll totally understand if you don't want to take the time as you guys are already being amazingly helpful :bow: and I don't want to 'overstay my welcome'. I'd of course keep in mind that your swap was with manual, but pics might be helpful.

Thanks Trevor.

[06YarisRS]

Subscribed!

Excellent! Glad you're coming along for the show. It could be amusing. LOL!

[tmontague]

Yeah, it looks good from the outside. They said they "tested it and it ran good". That's a similar response to what I got from all the sellers I messaged.

Yes, I think I'll really enjoy playing with the engine before installation. My timing cover bracket is "on order" from the online Toyota Parts dealer, so I'll have a bit more time to do what you suggest regarding anti-seize/silicone. I also ordered a PCV valve (See...I'm listening! :clap:). Thought I'd install that before the engine is put in. I should be ok, right, not installing a catch can setup like you did? I won't driving the snot out of it.

I think you mentioned that you installed a Scion upper rad hose or filler neck, did you not? I really want an OEM look and will be searching for an engine cover. So far the ones I've seen online would require me to remortgage my house to acquire. Sometimes local pricing can surprise - in a good way. I'll keep looking around here. Q: If I keep the Yaris filler neck and rad hose, I wonder if the engine cover would fit? May have to just find out after.

Finally, and my apologies for the long-winded response... Your pics from your thread are gone, Photobucket, I presume. Wondering if you'd be amenable to zipping those up (if you still have them , of course) and firing them off to me in an email. I'll totally understand if you don't want to take the time as you guys are already being amazingly helpful :bow: and I don't want to 'overstay my welcome'. I'd of course keep in mind that your swap was with manual, but pics might be helpful.

Thanks Trevor.

Most engine recyclers claim that about their engine - mine had data for oil pressure, pul loss and compression but somehow when I went to pick it up they had to go find it and it was still sitting under the car it was pulled from. BS they never engine dyno'd it, they likely made up the numbers based off the mileage. Either way the 2zr is a very robust motor so typically they are all fine unless oil was rarely changed or it was run dry.

You will be fine without a catch can, just run a good oil and change it frequently. Also avoid only doing short trips in the winter, my catch can picks up a lot of water in the winter months.

Yes, I run the xD upper hose and filler spout which I highly recommend. It mounts nice and solid to the already existing 2 holes on your fan shroud. It also places it at a high point which makes bleeding the coolant easy. Iirc I bought mine from village scion online in the states and it wasn't too much, I think around $40 usd for it all. Btw there are technically 2 hoses as one is just a short 2 inch straight run that connects the fill spout to the radiator. The other is long and runs from the spout to the engine. You realistically could forgo the short one and just cut a piece of existing 1nz hose and make it work. It only cost a few bucks and I didn't want to leave anything to chance so I bought it as well.

I actually was using FB to host my pics but apparently they seem to sweep the url's clean every few weeks as all my pics seem to be been broken links now and this happens every few weeks. I can post the pics back when I get a chance but I will be busy the next couple weeks.

Email me any pics you specifically need and I can send them to you. I have pics of the maf power wire I spliced in which will help you

[06YarisRS]

Most engine recyclers claim that about their engine - mine had data for oil pressure, pul loss and compression but somehow when I went to pick it up they had to go find it and it was still sitting under the car it was pulled from. BS they never engine dyno'd it, they likely made up the numbers based off the mileage. Either way the 2zr is a very robust motor so typically they are all fine unless oil was rarely changed or it was run dry.

You will be fine without a catch can, just run a good oil and change it frequently. Also avoid only doing short trips in the winter, my catch can picks up a lot of water in the winter months.

Yes, I run the xD upper hose and filler spout which I highly recommend. It mounts nice and solid to the already existing 2 holes on your fan shroud. It also places it at a high point which makes bleeding the coolant easy. Iirc I bought mine from village scion online in the states and it wasn't too much, I think around $40 usd for it all. Btw there are technically 2 hoses as one is just a short 2 inch straight run that connects the fill spout to the radiator. The other is long and runs from the spout to the engine. You realistically could forgo the short one and just cut a piece of existing 1nz hose and make it work. It only cost a few bucks and I didn't want to leave anything to chance so I bought it as well.

I actually was using FB to host my pics but apparently they seem to sweep the url's clean every few weeks as all my pics seem to be been broken links now and this happens every few weeks. I can post the pics back when I get a chance but I will be busy the next couple weeks.

Email me any pics you specifically need and I can send them to you. I have pics of the maf power wire I spliced in which will help you

Awesome. Thanks Trevor. I think I'll start with the stock Yaris rad hose. My wife did some online banking today and her eyes buldged a bit when she saw the credit card statement pending charges. She was aware of the upcoming costs. But, I kinda went on a spending spree the last couple of nights. :biggrin: Fortunately the big ticket items have by now been procured.

OK, I will let you know which pics will be helpful. I'd definitely take the MAF wiring anytime. But, like you say, you're definitely going to be busy for the next while. Haha. Hope yours sleep better through the night than ours did!

[06YarisRS]

Yes, I run the xD upper hose and filler spout which I highly recommend.

Since you recommended it...

Just need the actual hose now.

I also compiled - hopefully - all the parts I need to mount the alternator.

https://i.imgur.com/asZJWuR.jpg

[atomic_hoji]

...
Do yourself a favor when the engine is still out of the engine bay and easily accessible - remove as many bolts as you can and cover them in anti seize. Specifically the exhaust manifold bolts, intake manifold, fuel rail etc.

Also remove any hoses and spray silicone lube on the metal fitting/inside the end of the hose and re install. You have no idea how much easier this will make your job down the road if you ever have to remove anything.

+1 - wish I'd taken the time to do that.. I know it'll make life easier in the long run. Similarly, if you need to run any wiring, etc.. do it (or at least rough it in) while the engine is out of the engine bay - WAY more difficult after-the-fact. lol

Haha, I guess so... 'In for a dime, in for many dollars', If I can do this, exhaust included for under $2500 CAD, I'll be ecstatic.

I'll be honest. The thought of the diagrams frightens me LOL. But, I will get a short-term membership. I may come 'knocking on your door" for advice on the specific ones to get if I get into the system and become overwhelmed. :drool:

If you come in at $2500 CAD you're doing awesome - because of mistakes, additional ECUs for fan control, fuel control, etc.. I was in way deeper than that.

Once you get the hang of the System Circuit diagrams they're actually pretty straight forward - Toyota does a pretty good job of laying them out and labelling, etc.. And YW folks are always here to help! :thumbup:

Like Trevor I also run the upper xD hose and filler neck - the Yaris setup ended up interfering and in the way. I also ran both xD heather hoses as I found mine were kinking to run from the 2ZR to the Yaris firewall - not sure if Trevor, Sam, or Tom found that they needed those or not.

I need to get one of those fan belt adjusters - my home brew made from flatbar is doing to the job, but I suspect is slipping a bit... lol

Can't wait to see the accumulated pile of parts ready to go!

-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

+1 - wish I'd taken the time to do that.. I know it'll make life easier in the long run. Similarly, if you need to run any wiring, etc.. do it (or at least rough it in) while the engine is out of the engine bay - WAY more difficult after-the-fact. lol



If you come in at $2500 CAD you're doing awesome - because of mistakes, additional ECUs for fan control, fuel control, etc.. I was in way deeper than that.

Once you get the hang of the System Circuit diagrams they're actually pretty straight forward - Toyota does a pretty good job of laying them out and labelling, etc.. And YW folks are always here to help! :thumbup:

Like Trevor I also run the upper xD hose and filler neck - the Yaris setup ended up interfering and in the way. I also ran both xD heather hoses as I found mine were kinking to run from the 2ZR to the Yaris firewall - not sure if Trevor, Sam, or Tom found that they needed those or not.

I need to get one of those fan belt adjusters - my home brew made from flatbar is doing to the job, but I suspect is slipping a bit... lol

Can't wait to see the accumulated pile of parts ready to go!

-- Adam

Haha, $2500.00 is likely conservative. It really becomes apparent how many little bits and pieces you need when doing a swap as opposed to just replacing a part in the same car. I keep looking at the pics of my engine close up, then comparing them to online parts diagrams and/or engine bay pictures online and on youtube for example. I have no idea if some of the hardware (alternator bolts, bracket bolts, small hoses/tubing etc) from the Yaris is transferable. The last thing I want is to stall the whole project (aka, getting running) due to missing some tiny little part. One thing that does freak me out a bit is the number of nipples, little tubes and such coming out of the engine. I hope I will have all the hoses, tubing etc to complete the install.


I did opt for the xD rad hose/filler combo as suggested by Trevor. I'll also check in with Trevor on how it went with his heater hoses 'adaptation'. That reminds me...I'm wondering if the rad hose diameters are similar enough to use my old spring clamps.

I plan to get on to TIS or identifix this evening and have a look for the diagrams. Then, let the downloading begin. :clap:

Thanks!!!

[06YarisRS]

Here is a list of rad hose related parts for the xD. Not sure which I'd need but hopefully not all. I suspect that many are already in the Yaris or are not used. If anyone was willing to say you just need A, B. C etc that would be great. I am already getting the upper rad hose (16571-37090), Filler Sub-Assy Water (16502-37010) and Hose 3 (16573-37030). I'm hoping that's all I need.

https://i.imgur.com/LOIqEIh.jpg

I am getting a membership to identifix or TIS and will be learning about the various wiring for the Yaris, Corolla and xD. This will be time-consuming for me as it's new to me so I'm all ears for tips as per rad hoses etc in the interest of saving time.

[ArmstrongRacing]

This is Awesome!

[06YarisRS]

This is Awesome!

:bow:

[06YarisRS]

Extra parts:

https://i.imgur.com/iKE9vP0.jpg

[tmontague]

I still don't know what purpose that engine mount stay does? I have it on my engine but I can't see it doing much for support

[06YarisRS]

I still don't know what purpose that engine mount stay does? I have it on my engine but I can't see it doing much for support

Yeah, I wondered that too. Maybe to control lateral movement? :iono:

Oh, BTW, Trevor, I think you said that you used your Yaris heater hoses. Is that correct and did you have any issue with reusing them? New ones aren't prohibitively expensive, but if I can save a buck or two here and there, I will. Thanks.

[06YarisRS]

Quick question before I dive into the wiring diagrams...

Can I use the Corolla timing cover bracket mount bolts to attach the xD bracket? Not sure if there is a difference in bracket thickness and if the bolts are long enough or too long?

[ArmstrongRacing]

They are the same bolts, I reused the corolla bracket bolts on my xD bracket.

I still don't know what purpose that engine mount stay does? I have it on my engine but I can't see it doing much for support

I agree. I never installed that part

[06YarisRS]

They are the same bolts, I reused the corolla bracket bolts on my xD bracket.

Awesome! Thanks!

[06YarisRS]

Wow, what a steep learning curve, being relatively new to wiring diagrams.

I figured I'd give myself a little project to help me learn the system and how to interpret wiring diagrams in general. I want to see if my cruise control - currently installed in my Yaris - will work after the engine swap.

Here are 2 snippets from the larger cruise control system circuits that (I think) compares the wiring of the xD and Yaris from the ECU to cruise control stock.

Please look at the pic and tell me if I'm interpreting this correctly. Although the connectors in each vehicle have different names, they are the same shape and the pins are in the same place. I'm pretty sure that this is only one factor in the whole cruise control system that would have to be examined.

https://i.imgur.com/qyVde1p.jpg


Also, I'm waiting to hear back from the seller of the engine for the VIN number. Gots to find out if the engine came out of a TMC made Corolla or TMMK made. Not sure if this would apply to the engine or just the other parts of the car. Either way, it's slowing me down from downloading all the diagrams I need for the Corolla.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Yes all of the pins “mostly” match up for all of the features. There may be a wire change needed for the auto trans torque converter solenoid, but that my only apply to corolla harnesses. Take a look at Brushforhire’s thread.

And of course, the MAF sensor power wire and swap over the speed sensor wires

[06YarisRS]

Yes all of the pins “mostly” match up for all of the features. There may be a wire change needed for the auto trans torque converter solenoid, but that my only apply to corolla harnesses. Take a look at Brushforhire’s thread.

And of course, the MAF sensor power wire and swap over the speed sensor wires

Thank you! I will check out brushforhire's thread again.

Here is one minor difference I've found in the cruise control systems between the Yaris and xD. Don't know if this will make the cruise control non-functional.

https://i.imgur.com/l6Lq8cW.jpg

I've downloaded a lot of diagrams and will use them to plan the speed sensor wire swaps although it has been documented here on YW (looking at the diagrams is helping me to understand how everything is interrelated) . I'll also check out the TC circuits for each car. I know that an alternate source of power was used for the MAF sensor (the reason for the mini add a circuit).

Thanks again!

[06YarisRS]

Alternator and A/C compressor. UPDATE: This A/C compressor does not fit. See post#135 for different part.

Looks like another trip to the online hardware store! Not sure if the Yaris A/C compressor bolts will work. :iono:

EDIT: Looks like the bolts are the same! Yay! Part#9011908B42

https://i.imgur.com/9X3Lgqm.jpg

[tmontague]

Careful with the compressor bolts, if they are the same part number then they obviously are compatible.

However, I had a fully pressurized a/c line blow off the compressor and the refrigerant blew out 1 inch in front of my face because the bolt was too short and hadn't actually threaded into the compressor properly and let go.

Triple check your bolts before re pressuring I almost learned a hard lesson that day but got lucky. It will freeze your cornea very fast

[06YarisRS]

Careful with the compressor bolts, if they are the same part number then they obviously are compatible.

However, I had a fully pressurized a/c line blow off the compressor and the refrigerant blew out 1 inch in front of my face because the bolt was too short and hadn't actually threaded into the compressor properly and let go.

Triple check your bolts before re pressuring I almost learned a hard lesson that day but got lucky. It will freeze your cornea very fast

Thanks Trevor. I remember you mentioned that. Scary! The bolts I was referring to are to mount the compressor. I have yet to match the part numbers between the two cars for the bolts that hold the lines to the compressor. I found a diagram with the bolts for one car, but not the other. Did you ultimately use the Yaris bolts to attach the a/c lines to the compressor? Or did you get new ones?

So, I went to an exhaust shop today and the techs were really interested in the idea of the swap. Nice guys. They had ideas that were cool and affordable but they had to pass it off the manager who did the quote. I was just trying to get a sense of cost and they gave me a price of $300.00 just to connect my stock exhaust to the Corolla manifold! Other shops I called won't do the job unless they bolt on their own aftermarket parts. I have decided to buy a whole new exhaust system for the car. Mine is pretty patchy and kind of noisy as it is. It was due for some exhaust work, and my wife has agreed that it is a repair outside of the swap budget. :biggrin: Well, at least part of the cost anyway.

My options are (shipping included):

1) Rock Auto: $586.00 CAD for xD Walker midpipe (cats, resonator) and new xD Walker muffler. All stainless steel limited lifetime warranty.

2) Rock Auto: $549.00 CAD EASTERN CATALYTIC 40826 SS midpipe and Walker xD muffler

3)$647.00 CAD for Magnaflow (cats, resonator) Inlet 2.25", outlet 2.25" midpipe and new Walker xD muffler (providing it mates with the Magnaflow midpipe).

4) $485.00 CAD (contingent on an accepted offer) used 2008 OEM xD midpipe (eBay) and new Walker xD muffler. I'm a little sceptical about buying a 10 yr old CAT.

The nice thing about the 4 options above is no labour charge for install. I'll need the donuts and new spring bolt kits of course too. All my rubber isolators are in great shape and I assume they are transferable.

The Magnaflow sounds appealing but not sure if 2.25" is necessary or worth the extra $$. It's doubtful that I'd ever do anything down the road that would require higher flow.

Product links:

Walker xD Muffler
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7304332&cc=1444562&jsn=14711

Walker Midpipe:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6776144&cc=1440243&jsn=10321&jsn=10321&jsn=10321

Magnaflow Midpipe
https://www.tdotperformance.ca/magnaflow-52159-direct-fit-oem-grade-catalytic-converter-2-25-id-2-25-od.html

Eastern Catalytic Midpipe:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4282350&cc=1440243&jsn=10322&jsn=10322&jsn=10322&jsn=10322&jsn=10322

eBay xD midpipe:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Pipe-2008-XD-Scion/192639332280?hash=item2cda32efb8:g:sLoAAOSwQFZbhDn u

I'm definitely open to opinions as well as other options as long as it stays within a similar range. I haven't seen much else though that isn't significantly more expensive.

[atomic_hoji]

Hmm... I used the Yaris' bolts to attach the AC hoses at the compressor.. felt like they went in snug, but makes me wonder now.. better check before I (finally) get the system pressurized..

RE: exhaust, I made the exact same thought process and ended up with the Walker due to price and availability.. I'm also really unimpressed with it. The stainless is cheap (409?) not the good salt resistant stuff; the bends are poor and reduce the diameter more than it already is, which is a 1.75" like the Yaris - I never found the xD, the Corolla/iM runs a 2", so it's already a restriction; their own gasket numbers didn't fit their exhaust; and fitment was together wasn't great either. Now, fitment to the Yaris I can't really complain about as it's not for the car, but it didn't fit straight into the 3rd gen like I thought it might (exceptinga rear hangar) - you may have better luck with 2nd gen.

I really wanted the Magnaflow, but no dealer online or (semi)local could get the part; backordered indefinitely.. Now going to end up finding a place to put in something that fits better as soon as I can get a day off to get the car in for a quote - assuming I don't run into the problem of places wanting to install bolt in stuff and/or can't actually properly fab exhaust..

Just food for thought.
-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

Hmm... I used the Yaris' bolts to attach the AC hoses at the compressor.. felt like they went in snug, but makes me wonder now.. better check before I (finally) get the system pressurized..

RE: exhaust, I made the exact same thought process and ended up with the Walker due to price and availability.. I'm also really unimpressed with it. The stainless is cheap (409?) not the good salt resistant stuff; the bends are poor and reduce the diameter more than it already is, which is a 1.75" like the Yaris - I never found the xD, the Corolla/iM runs a 2", so it's already a restriction; their own gasket numbers didn't fit their exhaust; and fitment was together wasn't great either. Now, fitment to the Yaris I can't really complain about as it's not for the car, but it didn't fit straight into the 3rd gen like I thought it might (exceptinga rear hangar) - you may have better luck with 2nd gen.

I really wanted the Magnaflow, but no dealer online or (semi)local could get the part; backordered indefinitely.. Now going to end up finding a place to put in something that fits better as soon as I can get a day off to get the car in for a quote - assuming I don't run into the problem of places wanting to install bolt in stuff and/or can't actually properly fab exhaust..

Just food for thought.
-- Adam

Thanks Adam!

The A/C compressor came with two bolts, so I'll just take those to the local parts shop and have them match them. I'll post up the bolt size later.

I appreciate your observations on the exhaust. As such, I have made an offer on the used OEM midpipe which indeed looks much smoother and less restrictive. As much as I'd like it, I can't really afford a performance muffler, so I guess it's the Walker for now. Sort of shame as I'm guessing the muffler would be a bottleneck. I just can't see any local shops being able to do anything custom without charging me a fortune.

[atomic_hoji]

No problem! I was just really not impressed (as you can tell..) so I'd hate to see you in the same boat.

Before you buy the muffler section, you might want to try and see if your Yaris' muffler fits the Scion xD main pipe - darned if I can find a picture from when I had the exhausts side-by-side, but if I recall they are basically identical; excepting the chrome tip on the Walker xD muffler. Not sure if my noise comes from the main pipe or the muffler, but I find the xD exhaust very 'brap-y', especially when the revs are up. That's of course a preference vs. function..

Looking forward to seeing this come together!
-- Adam

[ArmstrongRacing]

I guess I got lucky, I found a complete 09 corolla midpipe in a junkyard and just unbolted it, got a spare O2 sensor with it for $250.

But then it was $100 to get it matched to my existing Yaris exhaust

[tmontague]

In my experience with a few different exhaust set ups on the 1nz I learned the following:

Below info is on a 2.25" exhaust with the primary cat removed but still running the secondary cat.
Removing the resonator (which is not restrictive at all so has little benefit performance wise) leads to that annoying 4 banger buzzing at anything above 2500rpm. But it did has some nice backfires and burbles. This was with a generic turbo muffler. It also had bad drone on the highway

Adding the resonator back and still keeping the muffler was a great set up as a daily driver. No drone, no annoying buzzing and a slightly aggressive noise but nothing very loud until WOT. I'd recommend this set up as a daily driver and to avoide issues with other people/police. This set up also has little to no burbles or pops - its a very clean sound

Removing the muffler but keeping the one cat and resonator is pretty loud but if you keep it below 2500-3000rpm and don't open the throttle too much it is fine and not too loud. When you get above 3k rpm it is pretty loud and WOT is insane - not annoying insane but think track car BWWWAAHHHH insane. However this is one of the more aggressive sounding exhausts on a 4 banger that I have heard. No raspiness or buzzing. It actually sounds similar to a subie, deeper growl. This will give you a decent amount of burbling but not quite as much as removing the resonator. It will drone a bit on the highway but it is tolerable and not nearly as bad as removing the resonator. It can be driven around police and in neighbourhoods without being obnoxious, you just drive slow or like a normal person on a Sunday drive. - this is my current set up due to a weld breaking on my muffler and everytime I get in it and start it up I smile. It is a nice sounding exhaust.

It seems the facotry resonator does quite a bit for noice on these cars and it is not a restrictive set up like some others out there. My recommendation is keep the resonator.

As for the A/C bolts, yes the mounting bolts are the exact same, I re used my 1nz bolts and they worked perfectly fine. I cannot remember what bolts I ended up using for the a/c compressor lines. Either one of the 1nz ones were too short hence the blow out or I had to re thread it. IIRC I ended up finding another longer bolt from my parts bin.

[06YarisRS]

Thanks gents! Well, my offer on the used OEM midpipe was turned down without even a counter offer. It wasn't a bad offer. It's just they're sticking pretty tight to their price, I'd say. I may go back and make another offer.

My current exhaust has primary cat gone, resonator gone and two cats (an old cat welded in to act as a resonator of sorts). I have doubled up sparkplug defoulers to kill the MIL I had.

I had another look at the Easter Catalytic midpipe and it looks about the same as the Walker in terms of crude looking bends and pinches.

The sound of the exhaust is less important to me than having a free enough flowing system. That said, what Trevor mentions in paragraph 3 (the recommendation for daily driver) sounds like what I'm looking for. At this point though I'd like a bolt on setup so I can save a few bucks by doing it myself.

If my current Yaris muffler is no different in flow (diameter) than the Scion muffler (except the tip, which I might add, is nice), then to me it makes sense to keep it as it is still in decent shape, so long as it bolts up. I could get a nice tip for that.

I guess after writing this, I'm leaning toward making another offer on the eBay used OEM pipe. Quick question: Is a 10 year old CAT something to be concerned about? And, given all of the above, which approach would you take?

AFAIK, my engine is due to arrive tomorrow. I'm chomping at the bit to start tinkering with it. I have my bottle of Permatex antiseize, small brush set at the ready. Will pick up some silicone lube tomorrow. My airbox, ECU and harness all arrived in the past two days as well. Time to get ready to pay some serious duty (Well, 15% basically). Hoping to have everything home by the weekend.

I have downloaded over 60 wiring schematics from TIS for the 3 cars involved in this swap. It's like being a kid in a candy store! Probably way more that I need but, hey, why not? I may as well since I paid the membership. It ends at midnight tonight.

In a pm to Adam, we briefly discussed whether or not to bolt all accessories on before putting the engine in the car. I'd be interested in your experiences/suggestions around doing this. I would really like as much attached as possible but I don't want to get into damaging parts due to lack of clearance issues.

Thanks again!

[tmontague]

if the previous car wasn't burning oil than a 10 y/o cat should be fine. If not then just use a spark plug defouler to get rid of the P0420 code.


100% install as much as you can before the install of the engine. Clarence going in isn't an issue with the whole front end off the car. Once the 2zr is in the engine bay you will realise how tight it is an something like a water pump replacement will give you goosebumps.

Also add dielectric grease (or silicone grease) to all of the electrical connectors on the engine. Then install the whole harness to the engine before putting the engine in the car. Then all you have to do is connect the main harness to the ecu behind the engine and you're good to go.

Also have the xD ecu installed on the firewall before the engine goes in

[06YarisRS]

if the previous car wasn't burning oil than a 10 y/o cat should be fine. If not then just use a spark plug defouler to get rid of the P0420 code.


100% install as much as you can before the install of the engine. Clarence going in isn't an issue with the whole front end off the car. Once the 2zr is in the engine bay you will realise how tight it is an something like a water pump replacement will give you goosebumps.

Also add dielectric grease (or silicone grease) to all of the electrical connectors on the engine. Then install the whole harness to the engine before putting the engine in the car. Then all you have to do is connect the main harness to the ecu behind the engine and you're good to go.

Also have the xD ecu installed on the firewall before the engine goes in

Thanks! Excellent news all around. I was especially happy to hear that the harness goes on before the engine goes in. Also, Adam did mention that a belt change/putting the belt on would be very difficult with the engine in place.

You mentioned using engine hooks once. Do you have any recommendation on hooks that would work well for this install? Our shop has an engine hoist but no leveler. I'll see about getting one of those.

I'm also wondering if replacing the water pump before installing the engine would be a good move. This engine has relatively low mileage so I would hope that there's still lots of life in that.

[tmontague]

Afaik we in the 2zr are not known as a weak spot. My engine had 87k km on it and I kept the original pump on the engine. I just checked to make sure there were no weapons hole leaks.

Putting a new belt on before install is also what I did. Like I said, the 2zr in the yaris is a tight fit width wise so anything on the passenger side will be a bear once the engine is in place.

I don't know if my build thread has part numbers or not for the engine hooks but I ordered the 2 hooks specific for the 2zr. I'd highly recommend spending the $25 they cost. The bolt holes are recessed so these hooks have welded on spacers so that nothing gets pinched by the hook/chain. You can probably use bracket holes with strong bolts if you want but this means removing something off the engine so that you can use the bolt hole and this means you then have to install said part back on once the engine is in place.

I used a leveler, not mandatory but it really helps when trying to line up the trans mount when putting the engine back in place

[06YarisRS]

Afaik we in the 2zr are not known as a weak spot. My engine had 87k km on it and I kept the original pump on the engine. I just checked to make sure there were no weapons hole leaks.

Putting a new belt on before install is also what I did. Like I said, the 2zr in the yaris is a tight fit width wise so anything on the passenger side will be a bear once the engine is in place.

I don't know if my build thread has part numbers or not for the engine hooks but I ordered the 2 hooks specific for the 2zr. I'd highly recommend spending the $25 they cost. The bolt holes are recessed so these hooks have welded on spacers so that nothing gets pinched by the hook/chain. You can probably use bracket holes with strong bolts if you want but this means removing something off the engine so that you can use the bolt hole and this means you then have to install said part back on once the engine is in place.

I used a leveler, not mandatory but it really helps when trying to line up the trans mount when putting the engine back in place

Thanks Trevor. I will search your thread just in case you listed the part # for the engine hook part numbers. I'll keep the original water pump. I'm going to order a belt - likely Bando or the Continental as I've had good luck with both.

[06YarisRS]

Bought the Magnaflow Midpipe. I found a Canadian distributor that was charging $433.00 CAD (10% discount) with free shipping to my door and everywhere else it was $482.00 USD. I lost out on the purchase of the 2008 OEM pipe and there are no more to be found. The other options were the Walker and Eastern Catalytic pipes and neither look that great (bad bends and crushes). And, neither came with the gaskets, so there's a little savings there.

Magnaflow Midpipe:

https://www.tdotperformance.ca/magnaflow-52159-direct-fit-oem-grade-catalytic-converter-2-25-id-2-25-od.html

https://i.imgur.com/t5N9mgr.jpg

Now all I have to do it hope and pray that the Magnaflow will hook up to my current muffler. I will save some money and come up with a better muffler solution at a later date.

[tmontague]

Nice! I bet that would sound real nice without a muffler...

[06YarisRS]

Nice! I bet that would sound real nice without a muffler...

Just got an email a few minues ago:

"Part: Magnaflow 52159 - Direct Fit OEM Grade Catalytic Converter (2.25" ID/2.25" OD)


The product you ordered Is out of stock with the manufacturer with NO eta on when it will be back in production. We apologize for the inconvenience this may cause, give us a call at 1800 276 7566 to source you some alternatives or simply reply to this email with an alternative part number.

Thank you,

TDot Performance Support"

DANG!!!

[WeeYari]

Never dealt with TDot but I do have vivid memories of watching them pitch on Dragon's Den a few seasons back.

https://www.cbc.ca/player/play/2679921109

Sent from my Elite_5_5_Octa using Tapatalk

[06YarisRS]

Never dealt with TDot but I do have vivid memories of watching them pitch on Dragon's Den a few seasons back.

https://www.cbc.ca/player/play/2679921109

Sent from my Elite_5_5_Octa using Tapatalk

Just watched it. Interesting. Their customer service seems good. They took the call quickly, not big wait and were very apologetic. I had a refund notice moments later. They did try to source an alternative part to no avail.

So, I'm done with searching. I just ordered the Eastern Catalytic midpipe and hardware from Rock Auto. I'll bolt that up to my Yaris muffler for the time being.

I'm wondering if the other aftermarket Walker muffler has better flow than the OEM style muffler. If I got the non-oem style, I could at least put a nice tip on it.

https://i.imgur.com/PwYaHSH.jpg

Adam didn't seem to think there was much difference in diameter of the piping between the aftermarket exhaust and the Yaris, so I'll go with that for now. Maybe sometime down the road, I'll look at an axleback performance muffler or plan a custom axleback.

[06YarisRS]

I put the bracket on the cheap mount. This is the result. I don't think I want to bother putting this in the car. Please check out the video. Looks like time to order the actual OEM mount.This may have just been a $60.00 experiment.

Advice appreciated. Thanks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5milc-eiyF0

[tmontague]

Just watched it. Interesting. Their customer service seems good. They took the call quickly, not big wait and were very apologetic. I had a refund notice moments later. They did try to source an alternative part to no avail.

So, I'm done with searching. I just ordered the Eastern Catalytic midpipe and hardware from Rock Auto. I'll bolt that up to my Yaris muffler for the time being.

I'm wondering if the other aftermarket Walker muffler has better flow than the OEM style muffler. If I got the non-oem style, I could at least put a nice tip on it.

https://i.imgur.com/PwYaHSH.jpg

Adam didn't seem to think there was much difference in diameter of the piping between the aftermarket exhaust and the Yaris, so I'll go with that for now. Maybe sometime down the road, I'll look at an axleback performance muffler or plan a custom axleback.

Walker diameter looks larger. Yaris muffler is tiny and is very restrictive- crazy quiet but very restrictive. I'd recommend the Walker set up.

I've had ok experience w/ tdot and they are easy to get a hold of. They are just so large they never seem to have their shit together. Ron told me about Garage16 and every since then I'll be using them from now on for performance parts

[06YarisRS]

Walker diameter looks larger. Yaris muffler is tiny and is very restrictive- crazy quiet but very restrictive. I'd recommend the Walker set up.

I've had ok experience w/ tdot and they are easy to get a hold of. They are just so large they never seem to have their shit together. Ron told me about Garage16 and every since then I'll be using them from now on for performance parts

I'll check out Garage16 in a bit. Thanks.

I agree, the Walker looks better.

I really like the look these but expect that they would do little to keep the noise at a reasonable level. Nor do I know if I'd have enough room. Have to do some measurements and, of course, would have to weld the hanger in the right place. I'd cut my current muffler off and use the piece from the axle to the new muffler and an adapter to bring it up to size


I wonder if my new midpipe with its 2 cats and resonator and one of the mufflers below would produce a reasonable sound. I know they're probably cheap junk (at under $40.00 USD each) but my car won't be driven in the winter so at least it wouldn't have to contend with salt and sand. I have a little more faith in the cheap import stainless steel products as both of my cheap $3.60 exhaust tips are still perfect. The one on my 08 has been through a winter and is still mint.

https://i.imgur.com/EzDtq0e.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Sa85r5h.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Tonight's Project:

Wire harness inspection. I am learning each connector by using the "Location C", "Engine Control", "Connector List" and "Ignition System" pdfs from Techinfo. The more I dig into this, the less intimidated I am with regard to this swap. That said, I know there is a lot ahead of me. I'll use Trevor's pic of his MAF wiring to plan that modification.

https://i.imgur.com/GZ5NmEg.jpg

[tmontague]

Good idea. I found that helped a ton with wrapping my head around it all. Having parts come in early and you tinkering with them and setting them up makes it much simpler when it is time to install it

I sort of had no choice as I had 5 days to do the swap and have my car running to get me to class and work so I over prepared out of necessity. But in general it will make things go smoother.

[06YarisRS]

Good idea. I found that helped a ton with wrapping my head around it all. Having parts come in early and you tinkering with them and setting them up makes it much simpler when it is time to install it

I sort of had no choice as I had 5 days to do the swap and have my car running to get me to class and work so I over prepared out of necessity. But in general it will make things go smoother.

For sure. I like to look at the diagrams to see how everything interrelates. My plan for the MAF wiring is set. Got my soldering iron, heat shrink, loom and electrical tape ready. I thought I'd ordered a mini add a fuse, but I haven't yet. Will pick one up tomorrow.

If you had a chance to look at my engine mount youtube vid, I'd appreciate your opinion. You used an OEM one, right? The slightest force moves the bracket up and down. I can only imagine the engine bucking around. I expect that the OEM mount is much more solid. I understand how all mounts triangulate to keep the engine in place, but the movement on this mount seems excessive and it creaks a lot!

Thanks!

[tmontague]

Hmm, yes I used a used OEM mount and it definitely doesn't seem to move as much as that one. Worst case scenario you can install it on the car and if the engine moves around too much then swap if for an oem unit. They are easy to replace once the engine is in the car.

Either way that seems like a lot of movement from that mount

[CrankyOldMan]

Wow, 4 pages already!

I second using the OEM engine hooks. I can't remember if the part number is available in the parts diagrams or if it's only in the repair manual.

Good on you for diving in to the EWDs! Once you understand the naming/numbering conventions, it's pretty simple. You can even search the PDFs for connector names to help with cross referencing.

The one thing that I would do differently on mine would be to partially drop the subframe before attempting to install the engine/trans assembly. I was so focused on the trans not clearing the subframe that I ran the load leveler into the base of the windshield. Not a fun repair for a moment's distraction. If you only remove the front bolts and partially remove the rear bolts, it should give you enough room.

[tmontague]

That reminds me - I'd highly recommend taking an air hammer or sledge hammer to the "wing" of the subframe that sticks out right near the transmission drain bolt.

It gives you a bit more clearance and make fluid drains less messy in a m/t. It's easier to do with an empty engine bay. It a flat pthin piece if subframe that is easy to bend away

[ArmstrongRacing]

I actually opened and dissected a spare 2zr engine harnes, then did a write up on my blog discussing all of the wires and their purpose. Check it out if you want:
http://www.armstrongfamilyblog.com/armstrongracing/2zr-fe-engine-wiring-harnesses-disection

[atomic_hoji]

Glad you've made some good progress! :thumbsup:

w.r.t. the Walker muffler - that "U" shape that comes out of the muffler is ~1.5", which is actually tighter than the stock Yaris' pipes; Walker made 0 attempt to mandrel bend anything, so bends are very restrictive - at least the factory, while not perfect, maintains most of the 1.75" diameter.

I actually had the exact same order and response from TDot - the customer service was great, and I've ordered from them again for some other, smaller part that they had a decent price on just because of the customer service. Come across Garage16, but never heard first hand feedback, so good to hear they've been decent. :biggrin:

I second Sam's point about the cross member - I think it'd make life a lot easier for the extra bit of work to drop it. Alternatively, Trevor's point about clearancing it would work - I also got hung up on the damn thing a lot, but at least didn't smoke my windscreen.. :eek:

Can't wait to see ya dive into it!
-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

Thanks gentlemen!

I will plan to both loosen the subframe as well as bend back the tab as recommended as recommended by Sam and Trevor. I checked out your wiring guide, Tom. Thanks for that. It is very helpful. It's sad, Adam, that an affordable (subjective) exhaust system isn't available. When you say the "U" shape, are you talking about where the muffler does the 90 degree turn and heads to the tailpipe? The other design style 'looks' as though it might be less restrictive. I'm really disappointed that I didn't get the Magnaflow. How long ago did you try to buy yours from tDot? Because, they still have the listing up on their site.


My engine arrived today. I just have to get one of my buddies with half tons to take me across to get it. As much as I was hoping to have it this weekend, it's likely going to be early to mid next week.

[tmontague]

fwiw I never found that the subframe was any issue nor did I feel that loosening it would have made any difference. I also had a hoist and engine leveller to help. I found I wheels the engine into the engine bay (super careful of the lack fo space for the width of ther 2zr) and then slowly bolted each of the side engine mounts on but kept them loose. I then got the dogbone mount in and then tightened it all up. Having a jack underneath helps the get the engine in a better position (use a 2x4 under the oil pan.)

I actually did the clearancing with an air hammer after when I went to pull the trans for the lightweight flywheel. It's just that its easier to do with the engine out of the engine bay.

If others state is easier with the subframe loosened then I'd probably do it just in case. Just keep in mind it will require an alignment once it is all back in place which is one of the reasons I didn't bother with it.

Splitting the trans and engine sucks with the 2zr since everything becomes so limited with width. Anything you need to do to the trans do it while it's out of the car.

In my experience w/ Tdot performance is really friendly and shipping is very fast if a place has the part you are looking for (Tdot carries no inventory they are simply an online seller or middleman between stores and the online consumer). However the problems arise when parts are not properly labelled for the proper year of manufacture for a car. It took way too many calls to have them refund me 10% due to their mistake. My wife had to call while I was at work and every time they saids they would do it and kept forgetting. There were also delays on getting my seat bracket once it was made and when I had to order it after they gave me the wrong one the first time I was told it was ordered and then 3 days later was told I need to order it to get it started. Not a terrible experience really but more of a piss off that leaves a bad taste in your mouth when you purchase a part expecting it to be ready in time for track days you have booked. I always try to use a smaller company when the products are a similar price and quality. I have always had better experiences with smaller companies as there is usually less people that things have to go through to get done.

[stidnam]

For sure. I like to look at the diagrams to see how everything interrelates. My plan for the MAF wiring is set. Got my soldering iron, heat shrink, loom and electrical tape ready. I thought I'd ordered a mini add a fuse, but I haven't yet. Will pick one up tomorrow.

If you had a chance to look at my engine mount youtube vid, I'd appreciate your opinion. You used an OEM one, right? The slightest force moves the bracket up and down. I can only imagine the engine bucking around. I expect that the OEM mount is much more solid. I understand how all mounts triangulate to keep the engine in place, but the movement on this mount seems excessive and it creaks a lot!

Thanks!

I have a brand new Scion XD engine mount sitting on my desk and I can confirm it does not move to the degree your aftermarket one does. If I really try I can slightly move the bracket attached to the top bolt, but it's pretty stiff.

Personally, I wouldn't use that mount. Send it back as defective and buy OEM.

Part number should be (But please check with your dealer)

12305-37190 - https://www.sparksparts.com/oem-parts/toyota-side-mount-1230537190

[06YarisRS]

fwiw I never found that the subframe was any issue nor did I feel that loosening it would have made any difference. I also had a hoist and engine leveller to help. I found I wheels the engine into the engine bay (super careful of the lack fo space for the width of ther 2zr) and then slowly bolted each of the side engine mounts on but kept them loose. I then got the dogbone mount in and then tightened it all up. Having a jack underneath helps the get the engine in a better position (use a 2x4 under the oil pan.)

I actually did the clearancing with an air hammer after when I went to pull the trans for the lightweight flywheel. It's just that its easier to do with the engine out of the engine bay.

If others state is easier with the subframe loosened then I'd probably do it just in case. Just keep in mind it will require an alignment once it is all back in place which is one of the reasons I didn't bother with it.

Splitting the trans and engine sucks with the 2zr since everything becomes so limited with width. Anything you need to do to the trans do it while it's out of the car.

In my experience w/ Tdot performance is really friendly and shipping is very fast if a place has the part you are looking for (Tdot carries no inventory they are simply an online seller or middleman between stores and the online consumer). However the problems arise when parts are not properly labelled for the proper year of manufacture for a car. It took way too many calls to have them refund me 10% due to their mistake. My wife had to call while I was at work and every time they saids they would do it and kept forgetting. There were also delays on getting my seat bracket once it was made and when I had to order it after they gave me the wrong one the first time I was told it was ordered and then 3 days later was told I need to order it to get it started. Not a terrible experience really but more of a piss off that leaves a bad taste in your mouth when you purchase a part expecting it to be ready in time for track days you have booked. I always try to use a smaller company when the products are a similar price and quality. I have always had better experiences with smaller companies as there is usually less people that things have to go through to get done.

Yeah, I was really disappointed when I didn't get my exhaust. The site still has it advertised and obviously they don't feel the need to take it down as this happened to Adam a while back with the same item. Their system accepts the customers' money, then has to refund it. An avoidable situation.

I am glad that the job can be done without dropping the subframe, but I will see how things go.

I'm still super impressed that you did this in your driveway, and by yourself!

[06YarisRS]

I have a brand new Scion XD engine mount sitting on my desk and I can confirm it does not move to the degree your aftermarket one does. If I really try I can slightly move the bracket attached to the top bolt, but it's pretty stiff.

Personally, I wouldn't use that mount. Send it back as defective and buy OEM.

Part number should be (But please check with your dealer)

12305-37190 - https://www.sparksparts.com/oem-parts/toyota-side-mount-1230537190

Thanks Stidman! I'm really leaning toward just buying an new OEM mount. I'll email the seller, link them to my video and see if they will refund me.

EDIT: I did order an OEM mount. I also emailed the seller of the aftermarket one and requested an RMA.

[06YarisRS]

The engine has landed at home.

My daughter may be the new wrench turner in the family. She really enjoyed helping to put the engine hoist back together. I'll be borrowing an engine stand and leveler from the school early next week. In the meantime, I'll try to source the engine hooks.

https://i.imgur.com/bT41oOK.jpg

A couple of my former students lending a hand. One is actually our tenant.

https://i.imgur.com/54harOS.jpg

[06YarisRS]

MAF Wiring in harness

Started hacking away at the harness. My glasses mysteriously went missing so there was a lot of squinting going on. I added the MAF sensor power wire that will run to the fuse box (thanks Trevor). Not having any automotive wire on hand, I grabbed a roll of decent quality 14 ga stranded copper speaker wire. Not sure if the OEM wiring is aluminum or copper. Hopefully there won't be any dissimilar metals issues. It's a really good connection with about 1" of wire from each wire braided into each other, soldered, heat shrinked and taped. I may have shorted the power wire a bit, but I think the mini add-a-circuit wire will reach. If not, I'll splice in a bit, solder and heat shrink.

Braided and soldered

https://i.imgur.com/Sw9S5ls.jpg

Heat shrink, tape and 90 bend

https://i.imgur.com/ziFk7fp.jpg

More taping

https://i.imgur.com/QofGfO2.jpg

Finished connection

https://i.imgur.com/MAECWHd.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

There used to be some good options for exhaust systems by RPM, but as you all know....they canned their 2zr support.

I would personally recommend finding a oem midpipe or at least the collector, then just have the rest of the system made to meet up with whatever performance muffler you have. I went with 2.25 all the way due to the overwhelming amount of complaints from people that tried 2.5. 1 catalyst and 1 resonator is all you need to pass smog and sound restrictions

You’re engine looks really nice, must be a unit someone took care of. Things should come together quickly now!

I strongly approve of your wiring work, looks completely oem. I soldered my wholle home-made harness with heat sharing also, and with all these years, and having it apart several more times... and racing! Don’t let anyone tell you solder is “brittle”.

[06YarisRS]

There used to be some good options for exhaust systems by RPM, but as you all know....they canned their 2zr support.

I would personally recommend finding a oem midpipe or at least the collector, then just have the rest of the system made to meet up with whatever performance muffler you have. I went with 2.25 all the way due to the overwhelming amount of complaints from people that tried 2.5. 1 catalyst and 1 resonator is all you need to pass smog and sound restrictions

You’re engine looks really nice, must be a unit someone took care of. Things should come together quickly now!

I strongly approve of your wiring work, looks completely oem. I soldered my wholle home-made harness with heat sharing also, and with all these years, and having it apart several more times... and racing! Don’t let anyone tell you solder is “brittle”.

Thanks very much, Tom. Believe me, I've tried desperately to get an OEM pipe. I contacted over 20 different places and the only pipe I could find, was from a 2010 and was $450.00 USD plus shipping. I had at least two outfits tell me that they just cut the exhaust systems off to get the engines out. I cringed! A local shop wanted to charge me over $300.00 to just attach the Corolla exhaust manifold to the stock Yaris exhaust - nothing else. Other places didn't even want to touch it unless I bought all new parts from them.

I'm kicking myself in the arse now for not buying the 2008 OEM pipe when I had the chance. I made very solid offers and they kept rejecting them and it was a "Make an Offer" listing. I figured I'd make one final one but by the time I went to, it was gone.

Do you really think that the aftermarket OEM Scion xD midpipe that I ordered will be too restrictive? I would hate to go to all this work and expense and suffer significant power/torque losses due to inadequate flow?

I was so disappointed when the Canadian outfit sold me the Magnaflow and then told me they couldn't get it.

Yes, the engine looks good. I had a heck of a time getting the dipstick out but once it come out it would go back in and out fine. I thought it was going to break off and slide down into the pan. I hope the internals are good as I'd be in a bad way if there were any major problems. I'll clean it up and antiseize various bolts as recommended by Trevor. I still have to make a decision about the location for the swap. The school shop would be awesome but I'd have to be running and gone by Sunday evening. I have a guy who will help me but I have to do it on a weekend he's available.
We are away next weekend, so maybe the following.

[ArmstrongRacing]

I would think any exhaust pipe made for the 1.8 will have properly sized piping. I made the comment about pipe size in case you had to get it made.

Make sure you get the a/c evacuated before the go time. With the auto I don’t think you have to pull the trans out at all, remove the torque converter bolts behind the black cover, put a jack under the trans to hold it in place, then there should be enough room to lift the engine straight up and out.

[06YarisRS]

With the auto I don’t think you have to pull the trans out at all, remove the torque converter bolts behind the black cover, put a jack under the trans to hold it in place, then there should be enough room to lift the engine straight up and out.

:eek: Wow, this is indeed good news! I figured with what I'd read about the mounts not necessarily lining up 100% that it might be easier moving the whole engine and transmission as a mass to line it up with the mounts. But, if I remember, your mounts did line up, right? Maybe I'm mixing it up with a swap involving a manual trans.

Does this apply to dropping the 2ZR back in after the 1NZ is pulled? So, in theory, I could drop the 2ZR in, bolt up the bell housing, converter bolts and be good - other than the wiring (including the necessary speed sensor wire swaps), ATF lines etc? No need to mess with with axles or suspension components? That could prove to be a major time saver and potential frustration saver! I wonder if the extra width of the 2zr would make it difficult to mate the engine and transmission while in the engine bay. Would I be correct in assuming that if the transmission mounts are either loose or removed, and the transmission supported by a jack, that there would be enough play to tip the trans back and forth to get it bolted to the engine?

It's interesting as when I went to ask the local mechanic if he woud be available in a pinch, he asked why I would remove the trans at all. I dismissed it because I thought he might be thinking about just putting the same type of motor back in - not necessarily one with slightly different dimensions.

Sorry for all the Q's but I'm getting pumped about this!

BTW, my timing case bracket arrived. Just have to hop across the border and get it. So there's something else I can do to my engine while waiting to dive in to the swap.

[tmontague]

Awesome progress. In regards to the dipstick tube make sure you cover the dipstick o ring in silicone grease. For what ever reason the 2zr dipstick like to corrode at the top of the tube and seizes it in there. Ask Sam how he knows... even mine after 1 month of not pulling it out got very stuck. Cleaned it up and greased it and no issues since

[06YarisRS]

Awesome progress. In regards to the dipstick tube make sure you cover the dipstick o ring in silicone grease. For what ever reason the 2zr dipstick like to corrode at the top of the tube and seizes it in there. Ask Sam how he knows... even mine after 1 month of not pulling it out got very stuck. Cleaned it up and greased it and no issues since

Thanks! So, given the frequency with which the typical motorist of today checks his/her oil, it's probably a given that there are 100 000's of 2ZR-based cars driving around with frozen dipsticks. LOL! Will add some silicone grease.

As an aside, and of course it didn't apply in your swap, but would you used some loctite on the torque converter bolts when installing and torquing to spec? I can only imagine the destructive result of having one of those bolts come loose and bouncing around in there.

Completely unrelated...Looks like I'll be getting a new windshield in my '06. Yesterday, the lower passenger corner took a small rock; I think from a oncoming vehicle. The crack is already creeping diagonally toward the center of the windshield. I thought we'd been shot. It was freakin' loud.

[tmontague]

I can't say how quickly the tube seizes as my engine bay get exposed to water quicker due to my 2 vents I cut into it. How quickly it happened to mine is probably not the most realistic for others but they are known to seize as Sam also found out.

I did not use loctite on my flywheels bolts in actually used a very small amount of antizeize and torqued them to spec. I don't remember the repair manual saying to use loctite so I never did and haven't had an issue.

I'd only use it if recommended.

[06YarisRS]

I did not use loctite on my flywheels bolts in actually used a very small amount of antizeize and torqued them to spec. I don't remember the repair manual saying to use loctite so I never did and haven't had an issue.

I'd only use it if recommended.

Right, I haven't looked at that part of the repair manual yet. I had just watched a youtube video about how a torque converter is attached and it looked like a thread sealer on the bolts.

I took the Corolla mount off. A 12pt 14mm wrench was adequate, but just. A little tapping was required. Those bolts are in there tight! Definitely a situation for never seize. Had to remove the motor mount guide pin to get the top bolt out of the mount after it was removed from the engine. I would have installed the Scion bracket but I'm waiting to go pick it up when a couple more packages arrive.

Removal:

https://i.imgur.com/jqbJwmu.jpg

Removed:

https://i.imgur.com/usgvtSu.jpg


New Scion Bracket Installed

Lots of anti-seize!

https://i.imgur.com/SkpWecg.jpg

xD bracket installed. Just have to go find torque spec in my service manual.

Installed Parts:

A (1 X) Toyota #12315-37040 (bracket)
B (3 X) Bracket mount bolts (came off the Corolla Engine)
C (3 x) Toyota #91552-L1240 (bolts to attach engine mount - to bracket)

https://i.imgur.com/pcWZl6k.jpg

[tmontague]

Tom is correct about leaving the trans in the car while swapping the engine. I removed my whole trans w/ the motor because I was replacing the clutch and flywheel.

That said putting the 2zr back into the engine bay and lining up the main shaft to the engine would be a huge pita compared to easily doing it off the car.

Imho I actually think it is quicker to pull them both together, reassemble w/ the 2zr and slide them both back in together. When the front of the car is off there is a ton of room to remove the trans and engine.

Ultimately you will have to decide what works best for you but the 2zr block is a direct bolt on including the starter

[06YarisRS]

Tom is correct about leaving the trans in the car while swapping the engine. I removed my whole trans w/ the motor because I was replacing the clutch and flywheel.

That said putting the 2zr back into the engine bay and lining up the main shaft to the engine would be a huge pita compared to easily doing it off the car.

Imho I actually think it is quicker to pull them both together, reassemble w/ the 2zr and slide them both back in together. When the front of the car is off there is a ton of room to remove the trans and engine.

Ultimately you will have to decide what works best for you but the 2zr block is a direct bolt on including the starter

Thanks. The main reason I was liking the sound of leaving the trans in the car would be to avoid having to deal at all with the axles and suspension components. I should say that I assume that if left in, the axles and suspension would be untouched. Again, I don't have experience, so I'm just guessing. I do like the idea of having it out to mount the trans, but if I could avoid messing with axles etc, it would be a consideration. Since the rad has to come out with front end removal, then I'd still have to deal with transmission cooler lines etc anyway.

Let's say that I do take both out and put both back in together, will the axles slide into place without having to break the ball joints and pull the struts out?

[tmontague]

You don't have to touch the knuckle or suspension to remove the axles. You can get away with it by just removing the ball joint and once its separated from the knuckle you can swing the knuckle out and remove the axle. I do this all the time when working on my axles so that I don't need a realignment every time.

The yaris bj's sit in there snug so a proper tool makes it a breeze to remove them and not damage the bj. I use a tool like this https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/powerfist-ball-joint-separator/A-p8004135e

[ArmstrongRacing]

Yes the 2zr will drop right in place of the 1nz, just be sure the dowel pins are observed since they can get stuck in the engine or trans. Then if your 2zr has both and one is stuck in the trans it won’t go together. The auto slides in much easier because there is no shaft to align, both components have flat surfaces.

Leave the transmission in and don’t touch any of the mounts, it’s not in the way.

[tmontague]

Very true, I forgot that that a/t has no shaft to align

[06YarisRS]

:clap: :clap: :clap:

So...I should still take the front of the car off though? If not, is the radiator removal enough? I'm liking the sound of this more and more all the time!

Thank you guys sooo much! I'm feeling much more confident; not assured, but more confident.

The next thing that I want settled in my mind is the swapping of the speed sensor wires. Looking at wiring diagrams is one thing, but actually envisioning it in my mind with real wires and connectors will get me over this little hump. Any advice or pics would be tremendous. I'll go back and read the threads again but don't recall seeing a pic.

[atomic_hoji]

Great progress man! :thumbsup:

That's a nice looking engine, and your wiring is awesome! I would like to say that I've wrapped and completed mine that nicely .... but I can't - still too 'temporary' hah.

You must be getting really excited - or really anxious - or both.. lol

-- Adam

[tmontague]

I don't remember much of hand about the speedo wires but I di remember not feeling confident about them. Once I had looked at the 1nz harness when th engine and trans were out and saw what connectors went where it dawned on me.

Iirc I just opened up the harness and removed the wires and connector from the 1nz and moved it to the 2zr. That's the one benefit of removing the engine and trans together is that you can see where everything goes to on the 1nz harness.

And definitely remove the whole front end as well as the hood. I thought about keeping the front end on but with it removed there so much room to slide the engine in instead if having to lift it and drop it into place in a narrow bay.

The front end is super straightforward to remove as you go. You won't need a guide it will all be right there when you start removing things.

[atomic_hoji]

Oh - speaking of removing the front end. If you don't have some already, the plastic interior trim / body panel tools. I picked this set up from Princess Auto, they worked a treat.. https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/6-pc-non-marring-pry-and-trim-tools/A-p8424624e

-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

Great progress man! :thumbsup:

That's a nice looking engine, and your wiring is awesome! I would like to say that I've wrapped and completed mine that nicely .... but I can't - still too 'temporary' hah.

You must be getting really excited - or really anxious - or both.. lol

-- Adam

Hey Adam. I've been popping in and out of your swap thread, and man, I have to say I thoroughly admire your skill, knowledge and tenacity. I'd probably have given up long ago. My swap sounds like an oil change in comparison. I guess everything is relative (project complexity/mechanical experience). Haha.

And, yes, I am getting both excited and anxious. Unfortunately next weekend is a complete bust: 2 b-Day parties, a wedding out of town and 2 hockey practices. Thank god my wife is good with scheduling/time management!


Best of luck with your project! You will be the first person ever to pull this off, correct? It will be a glorious feeling when you're done, and cause for much celebration. :thumbsup:

[06YarisRS]

I don't remember much of hand about the speedo wires but I di remember not feeling confident about them. Once I had looked at the 1nz harness when th engine and trans were out and saw what connectors went where it dawned on me.

Iirc I just opened up the harness and removed the wires and connector from the 1nz and moved it to the 2zr. That's the one benefit of removing the engine and trans together is that you can see where everything goes to on the 1nz harness.

And definitely remove the whole front end as well as the hood. I thought about keeping the front end on but with it removed there so much room to slide the engine in instead if having to lift it and drop it into place in a narrow bay.

The front end is super straightforward to remove as you go. You won't need a guide it will all be right there when you start removing things.

Thanks very much, Trevor. I will definitely remove the front end. When you scavenged the speed sensor wires from the 1NZ harness, you take the terminals out of the opposite end of the connector (not the CA2 end), run them through the xD split loom, then insert the opposite end terminals into the appropriate place in the corresponding xD CA2 connector as per my pic below? I'm hoping to leave my Yaris harness intact, but maybe this is not feasible. I would probably have to buy terminal ends.

Here is a pic. I know where to put the wires in the xD CA2 connector. Just not sure where the wires in the 1NZ harness connect to on the other end. Do these 3 wires go to different plugs on the xD harness? Sorry for my lack of understanding. :confused:

https://i.imgur.com/OzPJW0n.jpg

[tmontague]

I honestly don't remember I'll have to go through my build thread and see if I put any info there about it. I just remember having the same question as you but once I saw what the 1nz harness had that the 2zr didn't going to the trans, it became clear what had to be swapped. I never ordered any pins I just removed them from the connectors and moved them if I needed to.

Toyota pins and connectors are very hard to come by. This is why I am keeping my 1nz harness in storage in case I never need a connector.

[06YarisRS]

I honestly don't remember I'll have to go through my build thread and see if I put any info there about it. I just remember having the same question as you but once I saw what the 1nz harness had that the 2zr didn't going to the trans, it became clear what had to be swapped. I never ordered any pins I just removed them from the connectors and moved them if I needed to.

Toyota pins and connectors are very hard to come by. This is why I am keeping my 1nz harness in storage in case I never need a connector.

Thanks Trevor. I'm sure it will make sense when I go to do it. Where the pins go is not an issue. Where they come from is eluding me atm.

EDIT: I am going to review this thread in detail. It looks like it contains the answers I need:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56678&highlight=2Zr+swap

I picked up the xD bracket that mounts to the timing cover and installed it. Pics are in post #84, page 5. I took your advice, lol, but I may be overdosing the Permatex :biggrin:

[WeeYari]

Just noticed your pic a while back in which you tout 'lots of anti-sieze'. You sure that's what it is? I'm used to anti-sieze being coppery colour. What you have there looks blue to me which is the colour I associate with locktite.

Sent from my Elite_5_5_Octa using Tapatalk

[06YarisRS]

I started out removing one connector at a time from the Corolla harness and replacing it with the corresponding connector from the xD harness. That worked for about 1/2 of the engine. Then I simply had to remove the rest of the Corolla harness as it was getting too complicated and it was in the way. The plastic retaining clips that hold the harness to the engine did not always line up. So, I'm concerned about securing the harness everywhere it needs to be to avoid rubbing/chaffing etc. I may - in some places, have to use heavy zip ties.

As far as connectors go, I'm making two assumptions. 1) A connector will not plug in unless it is the correct plug. 2) A connector will only plug in if it reaches.

The most confusing parts was the flexplate end of the engine. I'm not sure I got it attached as it's supposed to be. There are a few extra plugs on my harness that I'm not sure where they go. Presumeably they connect to non engine connectors.

If anyone sees anything that looks wrong, please let me know.

https://i.imgur.com/VuJA57C.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/IGg3hC5.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qGvSy5C.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/f5wJjHn.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Just noticed your pic a while back in which you tout 'lots of anti-sieze'. You sure that's what it is? I'm used to anti-sieze being coppery colour. What you have there looks blue to me which is the colour I associate with locktite.

Sent from my Elite_5_5_Octa using Tapatalk

Hey WeeYari. Here is the product I'm using. It's silver. Might just have been the lighting making it look blue.

https://i.imgur.com/2AaRUi1.jpg

[WeeYari]

Cool. I was just picturing you following Trevor's advice to lather every bolt with the stuff and then at some future point uttering 'son of a bitch, that mother is tight!' ;)

Sent from my Elite_5_5_Octa using Tapatalk

[tmontague]

Hehehe that would be an issue. I used to use silver and that got used to and I received a free large bottle of copper anti seize. Have used tha w/ no issues. As long as its not loctite you are good to go

[06YarisRS]

A Breakthrough!

After straining by brain over this speed sensor issue, I re-read and re-read brushforhire's swap thread. I then went out to my '08 and found that pesky speed sensor way way back and way down on top of the trans. Sure the neighbours were laughing - me out there with my phone light practically falling into the engine bay.

Anyway. I'm pretty sure that I'm going to take the whole wire bit with the connector and incorporate it into the harness, running the wires up to CA2 pins 11, 12 and 13. I think where I was hanging up on this was that I thought that the 3 wires had to go into a connector that was already present in the xD harness. It's more of and add-on wire, per se.

Rather than split the harness open, I may run a small loom alongside, ziptie it and fully tape over it.

Again, let me know if I'm barking up the wrong tree. And Trevor, yes, I'm sure it would have been immediately apparent if I had the Yaris engine out! Haha.

https://i.imgur.com/ar29og1.jpg?1

[tmontague]

I re read my thread and realised that I never posted about it, it must have been in the thread you had read only.

Iirc I think I ended up pulling the pins and 3 wires I needed and added then to the xd harness. The one end of the wire go to the connector st the trans but the other end simply goes to knead of the small white connectors that attaches to the fuse box. This is what dawned on me when I was comparing both harnesses. I thought it went to the ecu but it simple grabs power/signal from the fuse box so it it a short piece of wire and really quick and easy to add to the xd harness without undoing the whole harness.

[06YarisRS]

I re read my thread and realised that I never posted about it, it must have been in the thread you had read only.

Iirc I think I ended up pulling the pins and 3 wires I needed and added then to the xd harness. The one end of the wire go to the connector st the trans but the other end simply goes to knead of the small white connectors that attaches to the fuse box. This is what dawned on me when I was comparing both harnesses. I thought it went to the ecu but it simple grabs power/signal from the fuse box so it it a short piece of wire and really quick and easy to add to the xd harness without undoing the whole harness.

Great. Thanks! I already installed my harness, but I think this can be done with it on the engine.

[CrankyOldMan]

Rather than split the harness open, I may run a small loom alongside, ziptie it and fully tape over it.

This is what I did.

What did you end up doing for your MAF power wire?

[06YarisRS]

This is what I did.

What did you end up doing for your MAF power wire?

I split the short section of harness needed and ran a wire from B+ pin 3 in the MAF connector out the end by the fusebox plug (CA2). I picked up a mini add-a-fuse and will do the same as you guys - plug into an ACC location.

Pics are back one page (post #76) if you're interested.

Thanks!

BTW, my midpipe arrived today. Have to call them and see if it's one piece or two. That will determine if I take the van or the car to get it.

[06YarisRS]

Great news!

Turns out one of the local auto repair shops (there are only 2 - 3 in our small community) has an exhaust pipe bender and lots of piping. I was told this by one of the guys that works at the parts store. I dropped by and talked to the owner and he said that they hadn't used it in a while but he'd be interested in fabricating an axle back exhaust for me. I showed him pics of my current exhaust and my new muffler and he said he'd like to just remove the flange from my Yaris muffler, form a new pipe over the axle and weld it to my new muffler. He'd weld on the hangers in the right places. When the swap is done, he said to bring the car in and show him where I'd like the muffler positioned. For materials, he told me he'd charge $5.00 per bend and about $5.00 a foot for pipe, plus labour of course. The great thing about this is that I can have him use a larger diameter pipe and my muffler is basically a straight through with a 2.5" inlet. With the aftermarket xD midpipe and a freer flowing axle back, I feel the system should work reasonably well. I had originally asked him to just hack my muffler off and use the axle to muffler part of the stock Yaris pipe and he suggested a new larger diameter piece. I'm stoked!

Here is the inexpensive muffler I bought. I hope it doesn't look too cheesy and isn't too loud. I can always have him put another muffler on if I'm not happy with it.

I think it will look decent with the dual 3" tips just peeking out from under the car. It's not high end stainless steel, but, as I mentioned before, the cheap tips I bought are holding up really well, plus this exhaust will never see winter driving conditions.

https://i.imgur.com/f6EIBdJ.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Midpipe and Other Parts


Adam was right. This pipe starts out huge and then tapers down to 1 1/2" after the resonator. It is what it is. Hopefully the flow won't be restricted too much. As much as I hate the thought of it I'm tempted to gut the cats!

I ordered a couple spring bolt kits and a donut as there was nothing stated about including those parts and they did in fact come with it. Not a biggle as these are pretty much consumable items.

My target for the swap is the weekend of 20 October, unless of course, I get the itch to start tearing things apart on the week day evenings.

https://i.imgur.com/nB8gr8V.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CV9yMyK.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

Wow that’s a nice looking piece. Let us know how well it fits and sounds at the end.

Make sure you never drive a corolla after the swap, or you will realize just how slow they are haha

[06YarisRS]

Wow that’s a nice looking piece. Let us know how well it fits and sounds at the end.

Make sure you never drive a corolla after the swap, or you will realize just how slow they are haha

I will definitely post about the final exhaust. Maybe I'll do a quick video.

Haha, I've been wanting to drive a corolla before the swap to see how much faster the 2ZR powered Yaris is. I seem to recall Trevor saying it was like the car lost 700 lbs or something like that.

[ArmstrongRacing]

When my Yaris was his in the door and the body shop had it, I had a corolla rental. When I got my Yaris back I was so surprised how much faster it is! I think the swapped Yaris may be just as fast as the tC...

[06YarisRS]

Wow that’s a nice looking piece. Let us know how well it fits and sounds at the end.

Make sure you never drive a corolla after the swap, or you will realize just how slow they are haha

When my Yaris was his in the door and the body shop had it, I had a corolla rental. When I got my Yaris back I was so surprised how much faster it is! I think the swapped Yaris may be just as fast as the tC...

I like the sound of that - the potential to be as fast as the TC. Just did some research:

First Generation Scion TC: ~160 HP, ~162 Torque, Curb Weight 2970 lbs, Power:Weight 0.054, 0-60 in 6.8 - 7.3 sec.
Swapped Yaris ~130 HP, ~127 Torque, Curb Weight 2340 lbs, Power:Weight 0.056, Scion xD itself claims 0-60 in 7.8 - 7.9 which would be almost 300 pounds heavier than the swapped Yaris. Not sure if these 0-60 times are with manual or auto. I know that gear ratios etc would also come into play.

Not sure how it would translate into real world application, but it sounds like the swapped Yaris - at ~600 lbs less and a marginally higher power to weight ratio - might indeed be comparable to the TC.

Further research shows that the 2nd Generation TC has 180 HP, 173 ft/lbs torque and a 6-speed auto.

[06YarisRS]

This thread is getting long but I want to document as many steps as possible. Just picking away until the "big day" of the swap. Alternator installation is very straight forward. I was amazed that I managed to actually order all the parts I needed. A/C compressor will have to wait until the 1Nz is pulled for the bolts.

All fasteners lubricated with anti-seize. Will grease all the sliding parts.

https://i.imgur.com/WoBGLA5.jpg

I think I'm liking the belt tensioner adjuster compared to the Yaris set up.

https://i.imgur.com/7S7DlFz.jpg

[WeeYari]

I think I'm liking the belt tensioner adjuster compared to the Yaris set up.

HELL YES!!!!!!!

[ArmstrongRacing]

Hey your water pump pulley is different from mine, what year is your engine from again?

[06YarisRS]

Hey your water pump pulley is different from mine, what year is your engine from again?

Heart attack coming on... :eyebulge:

The engine is from a 2011 Corolla. Is your pulley larger/smaller? Or, just a different style?

Am I ok?

[06YarisRS]

A great score...

Local auto recycler for $25.00 CAD. Cheapest I could find online was $80.00 USD and in much worse shape. This one is nearly mint! Even came with all 4 rubber grommets unlike many of the online listings. Just have to figure out how to get the part number marker ink off of it.

https://i.imgur.com/4NMhPgg.jpg

A little kid's sunscreen made short work of the marker.

https://i.imgur.com/HEllIvT.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

Heart attack coming on... :eyebulge:

The engine is from a 2011 Corolla. Is your pulley larger/smaller? Or, just a different style?

Am I ok?

Mine was labeled as 13’, it’s the same size just the pulley design looks better on yours.....maybe you have the updated pump

[06YarisRS]

HELL YES!!!!!!!

I know. Great, isn't it. No more crow bar. :clap:

[06YarisRS]

Mine was labeled as 13’, it’s the same size just the pulley design looks better on yours.....maybe you have the updated pump

OK, I feel better now. Haha. Thanks!

[CrankyOldMan]

There is definitely a difference in the appearance of the water pumps, but they're 1:1 compatible. I replaced the '08 xD with the superseded part number and it fits fine, just a pain to install because the pulley sticks out a few mm farther and interferes with the frame rail during install. Definitely better to replace it with the engine out of the car. =)

[tmontague]

FWIW my wp looks identical to the one shown above and my engine was also from a 2011 corolla

[ArmstrongRacing]

Awww poop. Looks like from 2010 on the new pump was used. I remember when I did the pump on my 1nz the new part looked much different as well. Lots of Toyota water pump revisions apparently

[06YarisRS]

There is definitely a difference in the appearance of the water pumps, but they're 1:1 compatible. I replaced the '08 xD with the superseded part number and it fits fine, just a pain to install because the pulley sticks out a few mm farther and interferes with the frame rail during install. Definitely better to replace it with the engine out of the car. =)

Thanks Sam! The bearing feels super smooth when spinning the pulley and there's absolutely no play at all in the bearing. I thought about replacing the water pump before installing the engine. I know you're not necessarily suggesting changing it but I did think about it.

[06YarisRS]

FWIW my wp looks identical to the one shown above and my engine was also from a 2011 corolla

Thanks Trevor!

[06YarisRS]

The local parts store counter guy is a font of knowledge. A month ago he sold a bunch of car A/C gear to the local applicance repair guy. He gave me his name. I called and he's coming down to my house in the next day or two to drain the refridgerant out of my A/C system. When my swap is done, he'll come and recharge the system. $150.00 for both on-site jobs. I think that sounds reasonable.

[DarkShadowFox]

The local parts store counter guy is a font of knowledge. A month ago he sold a bunch of car A/C gear to the local applicance repair guy. He gave me his name. I called and he's coming down to my house in the next day or two to drain the refridgerant out of my A/C system. When my swap is done, he'll come and recharge the system. $150.00 for both on-site jobs. I think that sounds reasonable.

100-150 is the average price.

[06YarisRS]

I was out in my garage tonight and did some rough measurements (not in units, but just using a piece of string) comparing the 1NZ and 2ZR. From the same point on the throttlebody to the outer edge of the alternator pully, I would make the 1NZ a couple of cm wider. Does this make sense? It appears as though there may actually be more space between the pully and the chassis. Does the 2ZR, when mounted sit more to the right (from the driver's position) in the engine bay? It isn't adding up for me at the moment.

Tomorrow - time permitting - I am going to raise the car up on 4 jackstands and start removing the front. It looks like the wiper cowl is going to be in the way. I would prefer to not remove it if possible. Did you guys remove the wiper cowl assembly when you did your swaps?

Also, I found out that the A/C compressor I bought is the wrong one. :frown: It is from a 2011 and that will not work for two apparent reasons: 1) the 2011 compressor has two electrical connections, the scion harness and the 2009-2010 Corolla compressor, only 1 plug. 2) the A/C hose flanges on the compressor are a different configuration. So, it's back to the auto recycler. I hope they will take back the 2011 compressor and give me a 2009/10 one.

Here is the 2011 compressor:

https://i.imgur.com/bJyil6Q.jpg

This is the one I need:

https://i.imgur.com/4WWOq0Y.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

Oh wow....... I had no idea there was another option. Are we sure that’s not from a different engine than the 2zr? I don’t ever remember seeing more than 2 wires to the a/c compressor in the corolla diagrams

[06YarisRS]

Oh wow....... I had no idea there was another option. Are we sure that’s not from a different engine than the 2zr? I don’t ever remember seeing more than 2 wires to the a/c compressor in the corolla diagrams

It appears so, Tom. Though I am now basing this off pictures from eBay. It seems that there was a change in the 2011 model year. I am going to go out again today and check the Yaris to be 100% sure that the flanges are the same as the 2009-2010 Corolla compressor. Thanks!

[tmontague]

Hmm that is weird, I think I ordered a 2011 compressor only because I had a 2011 engine but never noticed a different compressor for a different year corolla

[06YarisRS]

Hmm that is weird, I think I ordered a 2011 compressor only because I had a 2011 engine but never noticed a different compressor for a different year corolla

Yeah, strange. But my xd Harness only has one plug and this 2011 compressor has two. I checked the 2011 Corolla against the Yaris. The Yaris has the same flanges as the 2009 - 2010 compressor (one "T" shaped flange and "V" shaped flange for lack of better description) and definitely different than the compressor I got. Now, that said, maybe the auto recycler didn't actually give me the right one. However, every ebay listing shows a difference between 2009 - 2010 and 2011.

Thanks as always!

[ArmstrongRacing]

I did a quick google image search for the 2011 compressor and you get sites that show both as compatible, yet we know that’s not the case. Strange

[06YarisRS]

I did a quick google image search for the 2011 compressor and you get sites that show both as compatible, yet we know that’s not the case. Strange

Yes, there appears to be some confusion about the AC compressor as well as which belt to use. I picked up a Continental 6PK1230 (1060485) as it was the only one I could get last evening. There were a couple parts numbers for the same make, model year and options. On initial inspection, the belt seems short, but I should know tonight.

I returned my other AC compressor and got one from a 2010 Corolla. It has the proper flanges, which appear identical to the Yaris flanges. As a bonus, it was $60.00 cheaper. It also has the one needed connector. The pulley runs smooth and there is no runout or play but it makes a wee bit of what sounds like bearing noise when spinning the clutch pulley, though this may be normal sound from the clutchless mechanism. Not sure. I may have it checked at an AC shop before install. There was one broken mounting bolt left in the compressor with enough threads left to size the bolt. I measured the hole depth and figure I need about an 8 cm bolt (4 of them). I'd like to leave the AC compressor attached to the 1NZ. The only thing I'd like to try and source are some new o-rings for the AC hose connectors, but couldn't find a part number. May just pick up an o-ring kit.

https://i.imgur.com/cRIoHPW.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Hmm that is weird, I think I ordered a 2011 compressor only because I had a 2011 engine but never noticed a different compressor for a different year corolla

Thanks Trevor. I saw a reference online that alluded to something about a mid 2010 production change in the compressor. I'm still confused about the Japan-made and non-Japan made cars. It is all a bit confusing.

[06YarisRS]

100-150 is the average price.

Thanks DarkShadowFox. I'm impressed that the guy will make two visits and charge the price for one.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Thanks Trevor. I saw a reference online that alluded to something about a mid 2010 production change in the compressor. I'm still confused about the Japan-made and non-Japan made cars. It is all a bit confusing.

Great that you found this issue though, we all need to update our swap threads to reflect this new information.

[CrankyOldMan]

That would probably correlate to the change in wire harness part numbers for Canada as well.

[tmontague]

So 2011+ compressors are good but older than that no go?

[06YarisRS]

So 2011+ compressors are good but older than that no go?

I think 2010 and older are ok, probably back to a certain point. I will try and dig up the reference I saw. It was something like before 10/2010 are ok. I don't want to provide misinformation, but from what I have seen, 2011 compressors are different in configuration. I suppose a car manufactured in 2010 is considered a 2011 model.

I wil try to determine with 100% accuracy this weekend which years work and which don't.

But for now...

https://i.imgur.com/nDStGMn.jpg

Just thought of something. Maybe both styles of compressor will work. Maybe only one connector needs to be used. As far as the flanges go, I thought there might be a "V" shaped connector on the end of the Yaris ac hose that attaches to the compressor. I now think that the "V" shaped flange is designed to receive a connector either straight or rotated at 90 degrees. Just some thoughts.

[atomic_hoji]

Hey Adam. I've been popping in and out of your swap thread, and man, I have to say I thoroughly admire your skill, knowledge and tenacity. I'd probably have given up long ago.
...


lol - I appreciate the compliment, thanks. But then, if I was that clever, I'd have sorted it out by now.. :tongue:

Midpipe and Other Parts
Adam was right. This pipe starts out huge and then tapers down to 1 1/2" after the resonator. It is what it is. Hopefully the flow won't be restricted too much. As much as I hate the thought of it I'm tempted to gut the cats!
...


That looks (and sound by description) similar to the Walker pipe.. it functions, I just ended up monkey'ing with it more than I wanted to and am not a fan of the sound - but, depending on your preference, it might float your boat. :biggrin: Sounds like the local shop has the potential to do a nice setup for something decent. At least the back-end will be a smexy dual pipe setup. :cool:

Quick note (catching up.. lol) re: anti-seize - just remember that torque specs are for clean, dry threads (unless otherwise noted, e.g. cylinder head bolts often list as with oil). When you gob anti-seize all over the threads you're reducing the thread friction, and especially putting a steel bolt into an aluminium block.. I've been fortunate that a little dab and a gentle torque I've never buggered anything up, but I have seen the result and it's no fun to resolve that mess.

Might sound ridiculous and seem obvious, but did you count the ribs on the pulley of the A/C compressor? Guess how I know that when you ask for an A/C compressor for 2ZR and they give you one from a (10th?) gen. Corolla and it doesn't seem to jive that it came from a 2AZ model... ooops. :biggrin:

Looks like you're making awesome progress! Still diving into it this weekend?

-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

lol - I appreciate the compliment, thanks. But then, if I was that clever, I'd have sorted it out by now.. :tongue:



That looks (and sound by description) similar to the Walker pipe.. it functions, I just ended up monkey'ing with it more than I wanted to and am not a fan of the sound - but, depending on your preference, it might float your boat. :biggrin: Sounds like the local shop has the potential to do a nice setup for something decent. At least the back-end will be a smexy dual pipe setup. :cool:

Quick note (catching up.. lol) re: anti-seize - just remember that torque specs are for clean, dry threads (unless otherwise noted, e.g. cylinder head bolts often list as with oil). When you gob anti-seize all over the threads you're reducing the thread friction, and especially putting a steel bolt into an aluminium block.. I've been fortunate that a little dab and a gentle torque I've never buggered anything up, but I have seen the result and it's no fun to resolve that mess.

Might sound ridiculous and seem obvious, but did you count the ribs on the pulley of the A/C compressor? Guess how I know that when you ask for an A/C compressor for 2ZR and they give you one from a (10th?) gen. Corolla and it doesn't seem to jive that it came from a 2AZ model... ooops. :biggrin:

Looks like you're making awesome progress! Still diving into it this weekend?

-- Adam

Adam!


Thanks for the guidance. I'm hoping that between the midpipe I got and the exhaust guy, I come up with a decent solution. I think the exhaust should look great, but my fear is the dreaded drone at highway speeds. Hopefully the pipe with 2 cats and the resonator will combat that.

I can only imagine how troublesome it would be to try to tap stripped threads in an aluminum block as a result of over torquing with a lubricant on the threads. I'll go a little easier on the torque for sure, and no doubt I've gone a little heavy on the anti-seize. At least I know which bolts I've torqued and knowing me, I'll likely check them all again after some driving time. But, thanks for that reminder, for sure.

Haha, going out to the garage in a few minutes to check the number of ribs on the pulley. I did score some M8x1.25 x 80mm bolts today and started to attach the compressor when I was summoned by wifey to go to hockey practice.

Looks like next weekend for the swap. I have one of our students, who's very diligent and careful when working on cars, interested in coming by next Saturday to help me put the engine in. I'll start the disassembly though through the week.

Thanks again for all your help. You can't imagine how valuable the help that I've gotten from you guys has been.

EDIT: Well, the compressor pulley has the right number of ribs and the belt I got is the right one. Tensioning mechanism works great. I'll back it off until is squeaks a bit then tighten it a bit. I imagine there's a certain amount of deflection under a certain pressure to be in spec, but I probably won't get that technical.

https://i.imgur.com/dhD64bv.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Plugs

I removed the plugs. I think I'll pick up a new set and install them. I'm not really knowledgeable about plug condition, so feel free to comment. The bottom right one doesn't look so great imo.

https://i.imgur.com/COOoS9m.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

Plugs look ok, they’re iridium so they last a long time. I put new plugs in mine when I got it because who knows if the maintenance was done of even if the mileage was recorded correctly.

[06YarisRS]

Plugs look ok, they’re iridium so they last a long time. I put new plugs in mine when I got it because who knows if the maintenance was done of even if the mileage was recorded correctly.

Thanks Tom. I'm glad they don't suggest some underlying mechanical issue. It occured to me - after I replaced all the plugs and coils - that I should have put my breaker bar on the crank pulley given it a turn or two. Oh well, haha.

I'm about to order some more Rock Auto stuff including plugs, oil filters, a dessicant bag for the A/C. There's a guy locally selling an oil filter wrench for the cartridge style filter assembly and I can pick that up for $8.00 CAD.

[tmontague]

The OEM plugs are good for 160k km iirc. Mine looked similar to yours and I kept them in.

I changed the valve cover gasket and spark plug hole seals as those tend to leak down the road. It actually looks like that may be happening in your one spark plug hole of your darker plug. Those plugs look pretty good though

That said, the spark plug hole seals are such a tight tolerance they are almost impossible to remove without damaging the cover and install is ever harder. Not sure how a toyota tech would do it but it almost seems as if you need a special press for them. They are such a tight fit

[06YarisRS]

The OEM plugs are good for 160k km iirc. Mine looked similar to yours and I kept them in.

I changed the valve cover gasket and spark plug hole seals as those tend to leak down the road. It actually looks like that may be happening in your one spark plug hole of your darker plug. Those plugs look pretty good though

That said, the spark plug hole seals are such a tight tolerance they are almost impossible to remove without damaging the cover and install is ever harder. Not sure how a toyota tech would do it but it almost seems as if you need a special press for them. They are such a tight fit

Thanks Trevor. I believe that the darker plug was from the far left cylinder when standing at the exhaust manifold side of the engine. This plug seemed a bit looser than the others. It took very little force to remove it. I snugged it up better. Maybe I should wait before buying new ones and see if it runs well. Although I like the idea of new plugs, I'd hate to throw away perfectly good ones.

[tmontague]

There no harm is replacing them and trust me when I say it is easier when the engine is out of the car. The wiper shroud is in the way of a long ratchet when doing it in the car so it is not as simple as on the 1nz. But in all honesty iridium plugs are not necessarily cheap and they last a long time. I kept min in for a whole year of tracking the car and didn't replace them until midway through this year when they had 130k km on them. They still looked great and I noticed no difference with new ones. Imo I'd keep them in the cat until the owners manual stated yo replace them

O and I forgot to chime in on one if your previous Q's - 100% remove the wiper shroud and metal shield before doing the swap it opens of a ton if space right back to the fire wall. If you have an air ratchet or cordless ratchet it will make quick work if the 10mm bolts holding it in

[ArmstrongRacing]

Trevor just reminded me, the plate on the back of the timing cover does leak on mine. I would reseal that for sure. It’s at the top of the engine, on the back about where the exhaust manifold is. It’s a cover to access the chain tensioner

[tmontague]

Yes for sure do what Tom said. I researched this before I swapped the engine in and found it was a weak spot for leaks. I purchased the oem on ring and new OEM plate for not much money and swapped that in before I put the engine in.

It can be done fairly easily with the engine in the cat but you would probably want to remove the wiper cowling so you can see what you are doing

Edit - I also did this on my wife's 1zz in her Vibe so I may be confusing this with my 2zr but I'm pretty sure I did this on my engine as well. Regardless I have no leaks

[06YarisRS]

Thanks Trevor and Tom. I will look into the plate in the timing cover and see what I'm looking at for eta on parts. I will also remove the wiper shroud.

Today I removed the oil cartridge cover. It was a beeotch to get off even with the filter wrench I picked up today - which, incidentally, doesn't fit tight to the bottom of the cover. Must be a cheap knockoff and very slightly too small. But, it does work. Anyhow, I recovered a couple ounces of used oil. It was dark but very fluid and slippery, no grit. I strained it with a very fine strainer and there was nothing at all in the oil. The filter looks good, and similar to pics I've seen online (many look a little crushed). The pleats were pretty much spotless.

https://i.imgur.com/6zmqmvr.jpg

I did a Lubricheck test and was very thrilled to see a reading that indicated the oil was still in good condition. I think Lubricheck is considered by those in the know - such as many from Bob Is The Oil Guy - to be a reasonable tool to assess the condition of engine oil. Not a Blackstone or similar lab UOA but still far from a snake oil type of deal, I believe. Regardless, it makes me feel good. :smile: I've used it over several oil changes and it does reflect what one might expect of oil condition. Fresh oil gives me a "1" and after 7K - 8K km, it will read in the "6" - "7" range. And, the results seem to have good repeatability, providing that the sensor is impeccably clean.

Here is the Lubricheck tool. For some reason I can't orient these pics north/south despite trying.

https://i.imgur.com/5LsI9q3.jpg

And, here is the reading, "7", from the used sample

https://i.imgur.com/uUes3EX.jpg


Given the visual condition and cleanliness of the oil, the Lubrickeck result and the clean filter, I have convinced myself that there shouldn't be any major engine issues.


Finally, I did change the plugs out. I figured I'd grab them @$14.00 each from Canadian Tire. Well, also to briefly escape 5 pumped-up-on-sugar 8 yr old girls and son (Daughter's B-Day party). My wife and I took turns.

Here are the plugs. There were a few different numbers along with these. These are identical in dimensions though appear to have a very, very slightly larger gap. Though, these are the 4711 TT (Twin Tip) Iridium plug that Denso flogs as providing more power, torque (yeah, right lol). The original ones appear to be the 3444 plug. I understood that these new plugs come pre-gapped. Maybe I should remove them and check the gap, though I haven't had to gap plugs in years.

https://i.imgur.com/AOaAa9t.jpg

[06YarisRS]

I went out to check the timing cover window you guys mentioned and found what looks like part of the timing cover gasket pinched out. It looked like there has been a very small leak. A lot of what you see, moisture-wise, is Releasall penetrant I sprayed for the window bolts but it looks as though there has been some oil leaking. Not sure if it is actually from this cover or the actual timing cover seal. On close inspection, there looks like there is still some seal between the block and timing cover.

Is it likely that this seal was improperly installed at the factory? I can say that the idea of removing all the pulleys, timing cover is something that I really, really don't want to do.

https://i.imgur.com/NZmah0l.jpg

I also loosened all the bolts for the intake manifold so I can replace my pcv valve. I soaked them with Releasall but they still came off quite hard. It should be an easy removal now.


Timing Chain Tensioner

Had a bit of a scare after removing the tensioner as I couldn't get it back in. A quick youtube video explained that you compress the tensioner (pre-load it), and hold it with the little hook. It's supposed to release by itself once the timing chain slaps it. If you slightly squeeze the plunger, the hook does pop right off. Fingers crossed that it actually does release, put tension on the chain and the timing chain stays in the correct spot on the timing gear! EDIT: The pre-loaded tensioner mechanism releases when you turn the crank. You can hear it click. To be sure, I removed and re-installed twice.

Have to source a gasket but having a little trouble doing that at atm. EDIT: Looks like Toyota Part#13552-0T020 The one on there is pretty darn thin. I think I'll use some RTV too.

https://i.imgur.com/CUYrm1G.jpg


Intake Removal and PCV Valve

Took the intake off to access the PCV valve. I cleaned up the aluminum mating surface on the engine. It was a tad dirty.

https://i.imgur.com/aAXTV7d.jpg

The pcv valve had typical light carbon on it but it jiggled freely inside and the spring worked well. Since I'd have to order a new pcv valve - no one locally stocks them and it's likely a special order item - I thought I'd clean it up and reinstall. I soaked it in lacquer thinner and within seconds it was spotless; all traces of carbon disappeared. Strong solvent! Put a little teflon tape on it and reinstalled. If the pcv valve does fail, it looks like not too bad a job with the engine in the car - then again, it might be really tight with the 2ZR in the Yaris. :iono:

https://i.imgur.com/nnGqMJL.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/hxA4dvN.jpg

[tmontague]

The sealant that actually seals is the stuff sandwiched between the 2 mating surfaces and not what gets squished out. There should still be more than enough RTV between the 2 surfaces from the factory. I would be astonished if the factory messed that up so unless someone else removed the timing cover then it should be fine.

It is likely an issues from the chain tensioner gasket. I'd recommend just replacing that, giving it a good cleaning and seeing if it ever leaks again.

That said, it is almost impossible to replace the timing cover while the 2zr is in the yaris and it is so much easier when it is out of the car. Either way it is never a quick easy job so I'd just leave it and trust that the timing cover deal is still good

[06YarisRS]

The sealant that actually seals is the stuff sandwiched between the 2 mating surfaces and not what gets squished out. There should still be more than enough RTV between the 2 surfaces from the factory. I would be astonished if the factory messed that up so unless someone else removed the timing cover then it should be fine.

It is likely an issues from the chain tensioner gasket. I'd recommend just replacing that, giving it a good cleaning and seeing if it ever leaks again.

That said, it is almost impossible to replace the timing cover while the 2zr is in the yaris and it is so much easier when it is out of the car. Either way it is never a quick easy job so I'd just leave it and trust that the timing cover deal is still good

THANK YOU, TREVOR! Not only are you guys providing me with invaluable technical info but you're helping with my confidence level too! I greatly appreciate it.

[ArmstrongRacing]

That looks like the classic plate leak we mentioned, because the engine leans aft a bit when installed all of that leaking oil travels along the head gasket at timing cover seams. Replace the plate gasket and clean it like Trevor mentioned, and you’ll never see another leak.

Sealer squeezed out of that part of the chain cover because it’s a 3-way joint, and the manual requires extra.

[06YarisRS]

That looks like the classic plate leak we mentioned, because the engine leans aft a bit when installed all of that leaking oil travels along the head gasket at timing cover seams. Replace the plate gasket and clean it like Trevor mentioned, and you’ll never see another leak.

Sealer squeezed out of that part of the chain cover because it’s a 3-way joint, and the manual requires extra.

Awesome! Thanks Tom! I will replace the gasket. Off to source said part now...

EDIT: Timing tensioner gasket is Toyota Part#13552-0T020

[06YarisRS]

AC Discharge Today.

https://i.imgur.com/fFNBIia.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

Very exciting times await....

[06YarisRS]

Lifted Up

Saturday looks like the day for the swap. During the week I am going to remove front, wiper cowl, air box, battery etc. My plan is to spray the bell housing bolts and other bolts with Releasall daily until Saturday. I'll also pick up a can of mapp gas in case I run into any stuck bolts.

https://i.imgur.com/LqkCyeh.jpg

[tmontague]

Good luck! I spent a few hours the evening before the swap to rip off all the front end stuff. This allowed me to "start" my swap getting right into the engine which I felt was a great plan

I also drained all the fluids and what not so the first official day was me figuring out exactly how to get the engine out

[ArmstrongRacing]

Good luck! I spent a few hours the evening before the swap to rip off all the front end stuff. This allowed me to "start" my swap getting right into the engine which I felt was a great plan

I also drained all the fluids and what not so the first official day was me figuring out exactly how to get the engine out

Trevor your ability to get this done in one weekend AND all of the great content you’re providing is pushing me to encourage YOU to do a “Yaris engine removal” tutorial

[06YarisRS]

Trevor your ability to get this done in one weekend AND all of the great content you’re providing is pushing me to encourage YOU to do a “Yaris engine removal” tutorial

Amen! That was a major feat doing that by yourself! I can only imagine trying to work under the car, lining things up and having to move back and forth from underneath to your engine hoist. I think you had a jack underneath too, correct?

Thanks gents!

Ah, yes, I'm glad you mentioned the fluids Trevor. It reminded me that I have to empty my oil drain pan, which has been sitting full for the past couple weeks. Fortunately, my neighbour has large drums for waste oil, coolant etc. We have a good arrangement going. I borrow some tools from him etc and I undercoat his vehicles for him at our shop.

When I was out under the car yesterday, I was musing about how nice it would be to be able to drop the engine in without disturbing the transmission lines, but obviously that's not going to be possible with having to remove the rad. I think it would be far too big a risk trying to get the engine down into the bay even with the wiper cowl removed.

My major concern now is effectively getting all of the bell housing bolts off without breaking them. This is a 2006, winter driven car. Any advice you guys are willing to give, would be great. And, Trevor, I haven't forgotten your advice to remove the trans with the engine and I think I will do that if I encounter any issues with bolt removal. It would no doubt be easier to attend to stuck bolts out of the car.

As I move forward my current 'wondering' is how the A/C lines will need to be modified to adapt to the Corolla compressor.

Finally, I never managed to source engine hooks. Here is a question:

Will this tab on the cylinder head be strong enough to lift the engine? I am hooked to the mount at this point but that may be in the way of attaching the driver's side bracket. The current diagonal placement provides a pretty level engine.

The other option is to fabricate some hooks in our shop as we have lots of flat stock, drill presses and metal benders.

https://i.imgur.com/wK4th9d.jpg

[tmontague]

In the next 2 years once my family moved into a house with a garage and I get a dd'r beater I plan on making some 2zr videos with some good DIY guides. Problem is I'm always in a rush when I work on my car so I only have the time to do a quick post on weird things I noticed for any who do it in the future.

One of the main reasons I could do the swap as quick as I did was because of the outlines and threads posted from those that did the swap before me and wrote down and took pics of everything. It was a huge help.

It was a tough job with no hoist. Hardest part was the multiple times of getting up and down from underneath the car, made me very sore in the neck and core for the next few days.

I personally would not lift the engine from those tabs, especially when it is the engine and trans convo, that's about 300 lbs total ( 200 from engine and 100 from trans)

The oem hooks are very specific as they have a 1.5" spacer to allow you to bolt it to the head but clear the head at the same time. It would he tough to fabricate without having the oem hook in hand.

Use the engine mount and header or intake manifold and header. Just keep the contact point close to the block as you can so it reduces the moment arm and torque on the part you are hooked to.

You can then put a jack underneath to support it when you need to unhook from the mount to install the engine. You can use a different area when you unhook from the mount as you went be lifting the engine much once it's ready to be bolted to the mounts.

The bell housing bolts were no issue for me but if you'd like you can spray the backside with penetrating fluid. You have back access to most.of the bell housing bolts so you can spray the threads from behind. But like in said they all came out fine. As always i reinstalled with anti seize and hand tightened

[atomic_hoji]

+1 on not lifting via the tabs - I think you'll risk breaking them while shoving the engine + transmission around. The factory lifting hooks work well in terms of weight bearing, but I found using a single direction, basic load leveler (as opposed to a 2-axis lifting frame) caused it to roll front-back as well as side-side when trying to make adjustments. I ended-up slinging the transmission side to the transmission mount bracket and using a two-point attachment on the front - the factory hook to the intake side and a loop of chain bolted into the block on the exhaust side. Speaking of which - the intake is plastic, I wouldn't risk slinging through it either.

Just remember when you get into it, there are items that have to work, and there are things that are nice to work; i.e. A/C. :biggrin:

w.r.t. bell-housing bolts - as Trevor said some penetrating fluid on the backside (thread) and if that doesn't give them up the torch on them should do the trick I would imagine. Being different metals they will expand at different rates; heat up, cool with some penetrating fluid, should de-crust it enough to pop them loose I'd imagine.

Awesome work getting setup so far! :thumbsup: Can't wait to see you dive into it.
-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

Thanks gents! I will refrain from lifting on the tabs. That said, yesterday, I did lift the engine by that tab and the mount,, but just up in the air and quickly back down. I can't see having the actual lift hooks by the weekend as I haven't actually been able to ascertain the correct part number. Even if I did, I won't have them in time to do the job. So, I'll have to come up with another work around. I'm not going to trust my thin green tiedown straps, so will find heavier strapping for this application.

I am going to try to leave the transmission in the car, slide the engine down in and bolt it up. This may not be the best approach, but it's the one I'm most comfortable with for a couple of reasons: 1) I'd rather deal with fewer mounts, 2) I shouldn't have to deal with axles, risking seal damage 3) I'll be dealing with less overall mass 4) I'd like to see if I can pull it off.

It has, I know, been a long build-up to my swap. I am super pumped to dig in to this. Further to your comment, Adam, about things that 'have' to work vs those that are 'nice' to work, haha, I've already prepared myself for any eventualities there. I will of course be dogged in my pursuit of eventually having everything work! My cruise control is definitely a wild card.

I picked up my timing chain tensioner gasket, a tube of black RTV as well as 3 quarts of WS (I have another 2 in the garage) and two Carquest oil filters that are Korean-made and look quite well made. Heading out to the garage now to install the filter and tensioner gasket! (Both done now)

[06YarisRS]

Flip Fuel Line Around

Here is a pic from Tom's swap thread. Just trying to get a sense of what's involved in flipping the fuel line around. First, is it line 1 or 2 as labeled in the pic below? And is it flipped end for end or flipped vertically? My Corolla engine already has the fuel lines attached. Or, are we talking about the rubber hoses in this instance?

Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/RTUUzUe.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

You don’t mess with any of the metal lines. The plastic fuel hose that connects the engine to the car is what needs to be turned around. It’s a strange “S” shaped hose with quick disconnects on each end(blue release buttons on the fittings).

[06YarisRS]

You don’t mess with any of the metal lines. The plastic fuel hose that connects the engine to the car is what needs to be turned around. It’s a strange “S” shaped hose with quick disconnects on each end(blue release buttons on the fittings).

Ah, I see. Perfect. Thanks!

[06YarisRS]

Help! I may have run into a snag. Here is what I posted in brushforhire's 2ZR swap thread. I'm not sure if he is around anymore.

Hi brushforhire. I am hoping that you can help me here as I'm almost ready to do my engine swap. I am keeping my Yaris transmission but, of course using a Scion xD harness. I think I have all the other wiring figured out except the trans ground for the yaris.

Your pic is below. You indicated that the hole immediately to the right of the solid blue wire would be used for ground to block. That would be "9", correct.

https://i.imgur.com/MhOgmG9.jpg


Here is my Yaris connector. Hole "9" is aready occupied. Can you tell me which hole I should use for the ground?

https://i.imgur.com/S83AHyw.jpg

Thank you very much in advance.

Adam

[tmontague]

Use a test light to check if the empty spot on your connector is a ground. Hook the one end of the test light to the positive on the battery and the pointy end to the pin in that hole.

Iirc tom ended up just grounding the wire to the trans block at there was a threaded hole somewhere on it

[06YarisRS]

Use a test light to check if the empty spot on your connector is a ground. Hook the one end of the test light to the positive on the battery and the pointy end to the pin in that hole.

Iirc tom ended up just grounding the wire to the trans block at there was a threaded hole somewhere on it

Thanks Trevor. The pic I posted above is actually the Yaris harness connector - still on my Yaris engine, but my xD harness also has a wire already in the pin that is supposed to the ground wire as per bushforhire's explanation.

I have a multimeter but not a test light.

[06YarisRS]

Some Progress

I have drained all the fluids. I drained the ATF into an old ice cream bucket that I marked off in liters so I can replace the same amount when done. Removed the front, rad hoses, rad, ac lines, transmission lines, starter, airbox etc. Great news is that all the bellhousing to engine bolts are breaking free fairly easily. It looks as though the Releasall made its way quite deep into the threads.

I still have to remove that large cross member in the front but am soaking those bolts in penetrant as they are a bit rusty. Or, should I leave that crossmember as it's a major structural member? I'll take off the wiper tray tomorrow as well as the battery and tray, take out the torque converter bolts. Time permitting, I'll disconnect the exhaust from the manifold.

https://i.imgur.com/39wugR2.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Help Identifying this missing hose...

Here is the pic of the engine before it was shipped to me.

https://i.imgur.com/SFXeVQt.jpg

Here is the pic of my engine with the hose missing. Not sure where the hose that attaches to this fitting runs to or what it does. I assume it's some kind of vacuum hose. I couldn't find anything on the engine that it would attach to. Maybe the intake tube? Brake booster? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

https://i.imgur.com/Zqpl4oU.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

That blue wire coming out of you xD harness shift control plug should be cut about 8" from the plug and grounded to the transmission case. If you would have scrolled down further on Brushfohires post you would see that.

The hose that's missing is still there....its just hanging down by the throttle body. It must have accidentally been pulled off the port.

[06YarisRS]

That blue wire coming out of you xD harness shift control plug should be cut about 8" from the plug and grounded to the transmission case. If you would have scrolled down further on Brushfohires post you would see that.

The hose that's missing is still there....its just hanging down by the throttle body. It must have accidentally been pulled off the port.

Thanks Tom! I am confused (happens easily :smile:) about this blue wire because Sam says explicitly not to cut the wire and ground it. He indicates that the picture is wrong in his post and that a wire needs to be added to hole 9 next to the blue wire.

I feel quite silly about missing that hose. I think it's just me missing things trying to keep everything straight in my mind as I disassemble and reassemble stuff.

[tmontague]

Remove the cross members to give yourself more space. They are only structural when in a front end impact.

And as Tom said, the hose is right beside the port in the picture

[ArmstrongRacing]

The pin swap was only applicable to using a corolla harness, and that took place at the large ECM connector. The xD harness only needs the blue wire grounded like in the picture

[06YarisRS]

The pin swap was only applicable to using a corolla harness, and that took place at the large ECM connector. The xD harness only needs the blue wire grounded like in the picture

THANK YOU, Tom! I think I'm just confusing myself. I've been staying up too late the last few nights too, so certainly not working at max cognitive capacity. Haha. Still on schedule for Saturday. Got the crash bar, battery and battery tray out. Will try to go out tonight to take the hood and wiper cowling off and maybe the torque converter bolts.

[06YarisRS]

Remove the cross members to give yourself more space. They are only structural when in a front end impact.

Removed it, Trevor. Because I have the foglights, the body harness (I think) is still in the way but can be moved up or down a bit. I didn't trace the harness back on the passenger side, so maybe there are just a few connectors to remove and I can pull it out of the way.

[tmontague]

You can probably unplug some connectors and pull it of the way. I don't have fogs so I never had that issue. That said if you decide to leave the harness in place be super careful with the engine as it won't take much to rip the connectors out

[06YarisRS]

You can probably unplug some connectors and pull it of the way. I don't have fogs so I never had that issue. That said if you decide to leave the harness in place be super careful with the engine as it won't take much to rip the connectors out

Yes, I think I found the end and it is at the oil pressure sensor... I think. So tomorrow, I will get that all out of the way.

I removed the wiper tray and only broke one bolt doing it. It's one of the middle ones and nothing to do with the wiper motor assembly, so I will probably drill it out and use a self-tapping screw. The only other bolt that broke was on one of driver's side engine cover up at the top. Same fix there, I guess. Glad I removed the wiper tray as well as you can't disconnect the ecu plug without moving it out of the way. That little securing arm bumps into the wiper tray and won't open all the way.

Taking the hood off was anxiety-ridden as I had to sort of balance it with one hand and take the last bolt out with the other. I so don't want to injure my new paint job LOL.

I got the fuel lines off fortunately and the system had lost pressure after several days of not running and the battery being disconnected.

Well, I now have tons or room to work. I can say though that I'll probably be bugging you guys with a few questions pertaining to hooking all the hoses back up. It may take a little longer but rather than bag up all the bolts/hardware, I'm just putting the bolts back into their holes. That way hopefully I won't lose any.

I'm adjusting my plan and I think I'll remove the intake and exhaust manifolds for a couple reasons: 1) Easier access to the bell housing bolts around the intake and throttlebody and more clearance with the exhaust manifold removed.

How the HE double hockey sticks, did you do this job in two days in your driveway??? :respekt: Everytime I look at the mess of spaghetti in that engine bay, I'm sure my stress level elevates a bit. I really hope I can get this back together and that says nothing about troubleshooting potential problems after the swap - a.k.a. a no run situation.

Here is the current state...

https://i.imgur.com/4diqNzl.jpg

[tmontague]

Good progress so far!

What helped the most in being able to take the swap in a weekend was spending hours and months reading through the other swap threads. I then visually went through all the steps I needed to complete and if any infi wasnt clear I made sure to find the answer. I placed all the parts and harnesses out previously and visualized how it would all connect on the engine. I then connected it before the install.

And of course what really helped was the fact that if I didn't have it done in 5 days then I was screwed as I had to get back to work and class so there was a lot of pressure which i wouldn't recommend.

Dont get too over whelmed by the mess, once the engine is back in place just look at following the hoses one by one and figuring out what hose is what and where it needs to connect. Taking pictures helps a lot too

[ArmstrongRacing]

Yeah, I’m still impressed too. With how so many great, knowledgeable guys we have spread across the world, NO ONE will have to take their car to a shop. We have the manuals, you can buy techstream, so all anyone needs is a/c and alignment.

[tmontague]

^was cheaper for me to buy cheap ebay manifold gauges and vacuum pump then to have an a/c guy do it for me. I've already used the gauges a bunch and topped up my 12 year old family cars. Well worth it to have those lying around

[ArmstrongRacing]

That’s awesome.....

Make a diy yet? ;-P

[tmontague]

There's more than enough great videos on YT explaining the whole process- ChriFix has probably one of the best. Since it's there is nothing specific for the Yaris I haven't bothered

[06YarisRS]

There's more than enough great videos on YT explaining the whole process- ChriFix has probably one of the best. Since it's there is nothing specific for the Yaris I haven't bothered

YES! I watched that ChrisFix video after having the guy come down and discharge my system. I may yet buy the manifold gauges and pump which can be had for ~$90.00 on eBay. If I do this, I'll just go pay the guy for his time discharging my system.

The plan is to get started on the swap tomorrw morning. Will post progress shots.

Check out my new goodies that just arrived today!

New muffler. Should look dope, with those two 3" pipes sticking slightly out the back. Hopefully not too big looking.

https://i.imgur.com/5PHhtfg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/IL0D1yj.jpg

Gonna need one heck of an adapter. :eek:

https://i.imgur.com/6DL7BRA.jpg

New OEM mount. So much more substantial than the other POS I had.

https://i.imgur.com/0dlH1jf.jpg

[tmontague]

Fyi - r134 refrigerant is illegal to buy in Canada w/ out a license but south of the border you're good to go. I stock up on some cans of Dupont r134 when ever I head over to pick up some car stuff

Oh, and save yourself future a/c system hassles, install an ounce of refrigerant dye to your system when you recharge it. A black light will make a leak easily detectable in the future

[06YarisRS]

Fyi - r134 refrigerant is illegal to buy in Canada w/ out a license but south of the border you're good to go. I stock up on some cans of Dupont r134 when ever I head over to pick up some car stuff

Oh, and save yourself future a/c system hassles, install an ounce of refrigerant dye to your system when you recharge it. A black light will make a leak easily detectable in the future

Ah, I see. So obviously you recommend R134 over the 'Canadian' equivalent? Why so? Thanks for the recommendation on the dye. I also have to get PAG46 (3.5 oz). Some of it comes with the dye in it I believe.

Thanks!

[tmontague]

The canadian stuff sold at CT is propane based and explosive, also technically not what is in cars from factory. Use the proper factory stuff if you have the means it is what the compressor and the whole system uses in all NA cars. The CT stuff came out as a way for shade tree mechanics to "fix" a/c systems

[06YarisRS]

The canadian stuff sold at CT is propane based and explosive, also technically not what is in cars from factory. Use the proper factory stuff if you have the means it is what the compressor and the whole system uses in all NA cars. The CT stuff came out as a way for shade tree mechanics to "fix" a/c systems

Done! I will pick up some R134A when I'm across the border - probably early next week.

I read an article on recharging the system and it said if the stsyem has been evacuated, to add oil to the compressor, plus some for the lines, plus a bit more for the dryer. Would 6 oz be acceptable? Not sure how sensitive the system would be to over-filling with oil. Do you recall how much you put in?

[tmontague]

Ouch 6oz seems like way too much. I've read different things but my understanding is that most of the oil sits in the compressor so you dont need to add any if the compressor stays.

My new reman'd compressor had oil in it when it was shipped. I never added any oil, just dye and r134. Haven't had an issue since

[06YarisRS]

Engine Out! Will post up progress pics later.

https://i.imgur.com/EEXUopX.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/o9hzb0z.jpg

[tmontague]

Nice!

[ArmstrongRacing]

I would check the compressor you bought, if it has oil in it you’re fine. You only need to consider what’s in the lines if you replace them too, add the dye and verify the new compressor has oil.

Great work so far!

[06YarisRS]

Engine In...But, Not Without Issues...

Despite many maneuverings of the engine and transmission, we could not get the engine in without removing the pegs in the transmission. That of course caused alignment problems with the bellhousing and I am now struggling to get everything lined back up. Trevor, you now have exclusive rights to say, "I told you so" :laugh:. I probably should have removed the trans and bolted it up out of the car. I have 4 bolts on the bottom 2/3 inserted and the bellhousing is completely flush with the engine. It feels like one bolt has started to cross thread and one other I can't get started at all. Open to advice. I'm keeping everything loose for now and will continue to try tweaking the engine and trans to get those bolts in.

EDIT - Got the bell housing bolts in with some finagling. There wasn't a cross tread, but more likely the bolt just dragging on the side of the housing. The bolt I couldn't get started actually didn't belong in the hole I was trying to thread it into. Thank god for the pics I'd taken before!

After a short break, I'm going out to put the torque converter bolts back in. Have to check the torque spec on those now.

Anyway, here is a pick of the engine in the car.

https://i.imgur.com/kQZvnjI.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

The alignment is a bit tricky for sure. But you definitely shouldn’t remove the alignment pins. I remember having to fight with it for a while and I had a second hand to help.

Take a step back and see where the flanges are not exactly flush, try to correct that and line up the bolt holes

[06YarisRS]

My helper, Josh. He's a student at our school and he's planning to pursue a career in the automotive industry. I asked him because he is careful and a good troubleshooter. He liked the idea of having his pic on yarisworld.

https://i.imgur.com/3UTL5QZ.jpg

Torque converter bolts coming off

https://i.imgur.com/1u0meCS.jpg

The old faithful 1NZ ready to make its departure.

https://i.imgur.com/ssMrzOx.jpg

Big hole welcoming the 2ZR.

https://i.imgur.com/oz3QDyv.jpg

2ZR moving in.

https://i.imgur.com/qwQQjVD.jpg

Big brother and little brother.

https://i.imgur.com/u1g5vzC.jpg

Brain transplant.

https://i.imgur.com/xZqXgj1.jpg

[06YarisRS]

The alignment is a bit tricky for sure. But you definitely shouldn’t remove the alignment pins. I remember having to fight with it for a while and I had a second hand to help.

Take a step back and see where the flanges are not exactly flush, try to correct that and line up the bolt holes

Thanks Tom. Ultimately, I got everything lined up and the bolts back in. The mating surfaces are in full contact around the whole perimeter. We had tried a dozen different things but we could not get the flex plate past those pins no matter what we did - tilting, wiggling, leaning, lifting and lowering the trans a bit. It was hitting the frame on the passenger side. Once the pins were gone, it slid down and in but still very tight. I really didn't want to take them out as I knew it would cause alignment issues. But, everything seems ok now. I hope! Thankfully, there's enough room on the passenger side to change the belt out when needed.

The above said, I would never say that it is not possible to drop the engine in beside the transmission with the alignment pins in. We just couldn't make it happen ourselves.

I would also remove that pesky exhaust manifold as it was a royal pain in the butt.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Awesome!

The hardest part is over now, it should be smooth sailing to the finish line

[06YarisRS]

Awesome!

The hardest part is over now, it should be smooth sailing to the finish line

Thanks Tom! Probably the hardest 'physical' part is over. Now, haha, all those hoses and wires! Mental anguish, LOL!

I have to remove the passenger side mount as I had removed the AC line. it really looked like it was going to get damaged. Of course, I forgot to re-install that before bolting the mount down. I think it should be fairly easy. Support the engine underneath with a jack, remove the mount, re-install the a/C line and then put the mount back.

[06YarisRS]

The alignment is a bit tricky for sure. But you definitely shouldn’t remove the alignment pins. I remember having to fight with it for a while and I had a second hand to help.

Take a step back and see where the flanges are not exactly flush, try to correct that and line up the bolt holes

Hey Tom. I've been thinking about the pins and I bet they offer some support to the structure too. They are very tight in their holes. With all the bolts (9), I believe, should I be ok? I mean, it should be strong enough, shouldn't it?

As you alluded to before, the pegs were actually in the same positions on both the engine and trans. So, the pair on the engine was removed. We actually couldn't get the pegs out of the trans, even with heat, so (and I hope not to get flamed for this :flame: though I probably deserve it), I cut them off flush with a hacksaw. :redface: I'm not proud of this somewhat botched job, it's just I was under a little pressure with the engine hanging there and wanted it in quick.

[atomic_hoji]

Great progress man! :thumbsup:

Sorry you've had a struggle with the transmission - was worth a try to do it in place, lesson learned I guess? :biggrin:

Just a quick note - be careful using tie-down straps as rigging, if those clamps let go you could lose the load; no fun when it's an engine, even if it's a little one. I try to use chains and rated shackles for rigging. Please dear god never use rope! Regardless how you do it, let it hang for a couple minutes and give it a shake to test it - stay safe!

Keep us posted how you make out tonight / tomorrow!
-- Adam

[tmontague]

Reconnecting the a/c lines shouldn't be too bad with the steps you mentioned.

I also dont think the lack of alignment pins will be that big of a deal. The trans and engine fine have much shear force as the engine mount placement leads to the top part compressing and the bottom experiencing tensile force.

I've been in your shoes before and sometime you have to do what you have to do

[06YarisRS]

Great progress man! :thumbsup:

Sorry you've had a struggle with the transmission - was worth a try to do it in place, lesson learned I guess? :biggrin:

Just a quick note - be careful using tie-down straps as rigging, if those clamps let go you could lose the load; no fun when it's an engine, even if it's a little one. I try to use chains and rated shackles for rigging. Please dear god never use rope! Regardless how you do it, let it hang for a couple minutes and give it a shake to test it - stay safe!

Keep us posted how you make out tonight / tomorrow!
-- Adam

Thanks Adam! Lesson learned for sure! Yes, I confess I didn't do a great job preparing the lifting apparatus. I had lofty plans to buy chains, lifting hooks and an engine leveler, but I just slacked off at the end. I have to say, I was pretty impressed with my $14.00 Crappy Tire tie down straps, but, indeed, they are not the correct gear to use. I had lifted the engine with two straps and it seemed to hold, so I felt confident with 4. But, even with four, I know I could have played a tune on them...they were tight!

I did a bit more tonight - fixed the A/C line issue which was deadly trying to get the motor mount bracket bolt in my myself. It was a bit of a contortionist act with prying, jacking, leaning into it all while trying to start the threads in the bolt. I put the torque converter bolts in and in the process lost the little plastic cover. Will scour the garage tomorrow and find that. Also mounted the starter. Finally, I looked at the Yaris harness for the speed sensor wires. I'm seriously considering calling Toyota on Monday and sourcing some pins for the fuse box connector (CA2?). Rather than butcher my Yaris harness, I may just make a new leg for the Scion harness. For now I'd just take the plug from the Yaris speed sensor and use it - or try to order one. That way if I ever want to use the old Yaris harness again - or sell it - I would just need to put a connector on it.

Anyway, thanks again for all your help and I'll update tomorrow on what I get done. Hoping to have most of the wiring done and hopefully some hoses. I have no idea how I'm going to make the heater hoses work with this engine as one of the connections is on the back of the engine as opposed to both on the side in the Yaris.

[06YarisRS]

Reconnecting the a/c lines shouldn't be too bad with the steps you mentioned.

I also dont think the lack of alignment pins will be that big of a deal. The trans and engine fine have much shear force as the engine mount placement leads to the top part compressing and the bottom experiencing tensile force.

I've been in your shoes before and sometime you have to do what you have to do

I did get the A/C line back on Trevor, but it was tough doing it by myself.

Glad the pins won't make a difference.

Well, I consider having to remove the pins a compromise and I would definitely have preferred not to. It detracts - if even in a small way - from my overall feeling of a job really well done. That said, if that's the only hitch I run into, I'll be pretty darn happy.

I'll approach the wiring/hoses and tubing with trepidation.

Thanks for the help. More updates to come tomorrow.

[ArmstrongRacing]

I also dont think the lack of alignment pins will be that big of a deal. The trans and engine fine have much shear force as the engine mount placement leads to the top part compressing and the bottom experiencing tensile force.

It's not about strength, the pins facilitate proper alignment of the crankshaft and transmission input.

With an automatic its not really a big deal, since the torque converter and flexplate have a tight interference fit. With a manual transmission its a more serious affair, since the Toyota input shafts are floating.

[06YarisRS]

It's not about strength, the pins facilitate proper alignment of the crankshaft and transmission input.

With an automatic its not really a big deal, since the torque converter and flexplate have a tight interference fit. With a manual transmission its a more serious affair, since the Toyota input shafts are floating.

Thanks Tom. Now that you mention it, that little nub of the shaft that protrudes throught the torque converter goes into that little cup on the crankshaft and by looking at them, there doesn't seem like there would be much clearance. I'm pretty sure there won't be any rubbing there as the last couple of bellhousing bolts threaded in almost fully by hand tightening.

[atomic_hoji]

If you need wiring terminals you'll find that Toyota sells them as "pigtails" - pre-crimped terminal on a length of ~6" of wire. More than likely they will have to special order them, unless it's a large dealership and they happen to have someone who does a bunch of wiring; I only have pretty small dealerships "local" to me, so nearly everything is ordered.
If you can take the connector in to show them there's a better chance they'll get the correct terminals for you too; they'll of course ask the make/model/year as well.

Keep at it! :thumbsup:
-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

If you need wiring terminals you'll find that Toyota sells them as "pigtails" - pre-crimped terminal on a length of ~6" of wire. More than likely they will have to special order them, unless it's a large dealership and they happen to have someone who does a bunch of wiring; I only have pretty small dealerships "local" to me, so nearly everything is ordered.
If you can take the connector in to show them there's a better chance they'll get the correct terminals for you too; they'll of course ask the make/model/year as well.

Keep at it! :thumbsup:
-- Adam

Thanks Adam! Now that I'm back in the garage and rolling, I'm reconsidering waiting for additional parts. So, I may go ahead and scavenge the parts from the Yaris harness. One thing I'm struggling with is getting some of the harness retaining clips lined up with the mounts on the engine. I think the plastic clips can be moved, but I'm worrying that I may not have the harness installed perfectly. So far, all connectors are reaching their plugs. Here is a pic to illustrate what I mean. I don't like yanking and twisting the harness for obvious reasons. Many of the clips do align with the mounts but several don't. I think I can move the connectors along the harness but it leads me to believe I've not properly installed it. Is it acceptable to use heavy wire ties for those areas that I cannot attach a proper retaining clip? I wonder if this is just the difference between the Corolla engine I have and the xD harness. Anyway, here is the pic...


https://i.imgur.com/9vdPEmD.jpg

On a positive note, I've got the ground for the transmission done, I hope correctly. It's also in the pic above. I heat shrinked and retaped that whole junction of the harness. Now... on to the speed sensor wiring!

REMINDER TO SELF...put oil, ATF and coolant in before starting the car!!!

[atomic_hoji]

Might just be a difference between Corolla harness and xD harness? A bit of a lug to pull slack or maybe route differently around something will give you some slack? If not, a zip tie to pull the cable snug with the bracket should do the trick just fine. Because of the differences (i.e. ECM mounts on the complete opposite side of the car) between the iM and the Yaris I have a number of plastic cable connectors that I've had to do that with.. As long as all of the electrical connectors go to their partner engine sensor, I'd say you're all good. :biggrin:

And yes, I hear engines and transmissions get cranky without oil.. If nothing else, put a stick-note on the steering wheel! lol

-- Adam

[tmontague]

Dont worry about all of the harness mounts. They won't all line up as you experienced. Enough will line up so the harness is still supported.

What I always do when my engine is empty if any fluids is to keep the oil cap unscrewed but covering the fill hole fto keep debris out. This reminds me that there is something missing in the engine

[06YarisRS]

Help!!!

No matter what I try, I cannot get the pins out of the speed sensor connector. I tried using a sewing pin, safety pin with light pushing, picking etc. I can't get these wires out and I'm afraid I'm going to ruin them in the process. I'm basing this on brushforhire's thread in which he says it tricky. I'll say, haha. Is there some kind of release mechanism I'm missing?
Any advice would be really, really appreciated!

https://i.imgur.com/vEtqLCp.jpg

[atomic_hoji]

Looking at the picture it's hard to tell, but do you have the safety latch on the connector popped up? If not, the terminal will be latched into the connector body and be (virtually - you can yank and shred the plastic) impossible to remove. A tiny screwdriver can pop the latch up, then just keep it up and loose while you work your magic on the specific wire/terminal you want to pop out..

As for popping the terminals, try to visualize the terminal as square tube (female terminal usually, so I assume here..) and inside where the tube sits inside the connector there is a small, plastic wedge that is retaining the terminal. What you want to do is slide the sewing / safety pin along the top of the terminal to push it between the terminal and the plastic wedge. Then gently lever the plastic wedge up and away from the terminal; it sometimes helps to push inward on the connector while you feel this out. Then gently pull rearward on the wire backside of the connector and wiggle it out.

Dunno if that makes sense to visualize..? Once you have the hang of it, it becomes easier to know what to fell for... the first few times I tried I went at it for like half an hour and felt daft as a post; and my back hurt from hunching over.. lol.

-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

Looking at the picture it's hard to tell, but do you have the safety latch on the connector popped up? If not, the terminal will be latched into the connector body and be (virtually - you can yank and shred the plastic) impossible to remove. A tiny screwdriver can pop the latch up, then just keep it up and loose while you work your magic on the specific wire/terminal you want to pop out..

As for popping the terminals, try to visualize the terminal as square tube (female terminal usually, so I assume here..) and inside where the tube sits inside the connector there is a small, plastic wedge that is retaining the terminal. What you want to do is slide the sewing / safety pin along the top of the terminal to push it between the terminal and the plastic wedge. Then gently lever the plastic wedge up and away from the terminal; it sometimes helps to push inward on the connector while you feel this out. Then gently pull rearward on the wire backside of the connector and wiggle it out.

Dunno if that makes sense to visualize..? Once you have the hang of it, it becomes easier to know what to fell for... the first few times I tried I went at it for like half an hour and felt daft as a post; and my back hurt from hunching over.. lol.

-- Adam

Thanks very much, Adam! I got the terminals out, basically at the expense of the connector. I've also decided rather than tear the harness apart, I'm creating my own leg (for lack of a better term). I'll ziptie that to the main harness.

Even after I had the retaining clip lifted on the connector, the wires did not want to come out. Basically I hacked away at the connector with my utility knife until enough material was removed and the pins came out intact. This is a hamfisted way to do it and I'm not proud, but I am confident enough to install a new connector (assuming one is available) should I ever decide to repair the Yaris harness.

Please avert your eyes from the connector carnage.
https://i.imgur.com/F9wACtw.jpg

Parts for new speed sensor harness. I will solder each and heat shrink each connection, run it through conduit, then tape the whole thing. Then run it along side the engine harness.

https://i.imgur.com/MGfcrSc.jpg

[tmontague]

You need to pop up the retaining clip which you did and then you need to take a small needle (I used a sewing needle) and push down on the pin you want out.

I cannot remember which way or really explain it well but I practised for weeks on mine before I actually did the swap.

Once you get it you'll understand. But bottom line is you need to use a small pin to actually push the prong down that also holds the pin in. So there are 2 things that hold the pin in, not just the main retaining clip on the connector

[06YarisRS]

You need to pop up the retaining clip which you did and then you need to take a small needle (I used a sewing needle) and push down on the pin you want out.

I cannot remember which way or really explain it well but I practised for weeks on mine before I actually did the swap.

Once you get it you'll understand. But bottom line is you need to use a small pin to actually push the prong down that also holds the pin in. So there are 2 things that hold the pin in, not just the main retaining clip on the connector

Thanks Trevor! I didn't have much luck with the pin. I'm guessing, as you say, practice is the key. After all my toils getting them out, I actually took one out that wasn't the right one, lol. I ended up with a pink, white/black stripe and a brown. The brown was wrong, so I went back and got the black one.

Would I be correct in assuming that inserting the pins only requires that the retaining clip is in the up position? Also, I'm pretty sure that the flat part of the pin goes in facing down. I'd sure hate to get these in and have to try to remove them again, lol.

Here is the harness I made. I gave myself a little extra length so I could route where I want when I install it. I think this sucker would operate under water with no shorts. It's seriously soldered, heat shrinked, taped, split loom and taped again!

https://i.imgur.com/Z5EzBlI.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Guess I need a Edit: non-micro" add-a-circuit. Learning more and more by the day...:rolleyes: haha.

https://i.imgur.com/5le2pb5.jpg

Not all bad news. I'm about to connect the speed sensor wires to the fuse box connector. Just have to confirm correct wire placement.

https://i.imgur.com/y2oFlhL.jpg

Here is the ground wire added to the transmission plug. The blue wire going to pin location 10 is cut and an eyelet is added and it is bolted to the block.

https://i.imgur.com/P1mfueC.jpg

[tmontague]

Technically a non micro fuse tap works (that's what I used in my under dash wiring) however if you use it in the fuse box under the hood it will not allow you to close the lid all the way. It will still work temporarily however and it will give you an idea if you wired everything properly

And yes the pins can be inserted with only the main retaining clip opened, its removing them where you have to deal with the secondary retaining system

[06YarisRS]

Technically a non micro fuse tap works (that's what I used in my under dash wiring) however if you use it in the fuse box under the hood it will not allow you to close the lid all the way. It will still work temporarily however and it will give you an idea if you wired everything properly

And yes the pins can be inserted with only the main retaining clip opened, its removing them where you have to deal with the secondary retaining system

Thanks Trevor! Great idea. I will check my wiring with what I have. In the meantime, I will search for a micro add-a-circuit.

[06YarisRS]

Heater Hoses Installed

These hoses both needed a few inches cut off of them. I do not know which one is the inlet and which one is the outlet. The rearmost hose would attach without kinking but it was touching the firewall and with the engine moving back and forth, I thought it prudent to shorten it so that it doesn't rub.

https://i.imgur.com/CjLkfju.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

Looking good! I also used a non-micro add-a-circuit. It helps to clear the other fuses in the engine fuse box. Trevor is correct about the interior fuse box though, you won't be able to reuse the cover once you install one there....but the only reason to install these inside is for gauges or displays.

[06YarisRS]

Little Red Cap Game...Anyone want to play? :biggrin:

https://i.imgur.com/w43ia5Y.jpg

Here are my guesses:

1) fuel line?

2) no idea what this is where this one goes to. It is built into a unit with an electrical connector if that helps.

3) brake booster? (this tubing traces back to the intake manifold)

4) goes to intake tube attached to airbox?

I do seem to have a couple of hoses left over from the Yaris but they don't seem fit on this engine. :iono:

Also, I got my radiator and upper brace back on. There is no way the Yaris radiator hose clamps will go on the Corolla water pump outlet. I had the clamp tabs touching and it would not go over the tube lip. I had it lubed with silicone, wiggles, twisted...no go! I think I'll actually pick up a new lower rad hose and clamp from the dealership.

Lastly, and Trevor maybe you can help me out with this. I did attach my A/C line to the compressor and there's a bit of strain on the rubber part of the hose. I recall you saying that you bent the tubing. Can you elaborate on that a bit for me please? Did you bend the longer, upper part of the aluminum tubing down, or the lower curled part near the compressor upwards? Or neither. :laugh:

[tmontague]

I'll have to look at my engine to see where those red capped tube openings go. Iirc number 4 goes directly to a port on the intake tube before the throttle body.

In regards to the a/c, I bent the lower part near the compressor. I dont remember which was but enough where the rubber part was no longer rubbing against anything and there was less strain on it. I put it in a vice to bend

[06YarisRS]

I'll have to look at my engine to see where those red capped tube openings go. Iirc number 4 goes directly to a port on the intake tube before the throttle body.

In regards to the a/c, I bent the lower part near the compressor. I dont remember which was but enough where the rubber part was no longer rubbing against anything and there was less strain on it. I put it in a vice to bend

Thanks Trevor! That would be awesome!

[06YarisRS]

Could you guys have a look at post #219? I just want to verify that the wiring looks ok, especially the last pic - that I just added - of the blue ground wire which comes from pin 10.

Thanks!

[tmontague]

From what u remember that appears to be the correct spots. However, I'd need to go through the threads to confirm

[06YarisRS]

From what u remember that appears to be the correct spots. However, I'd need to go through the threads to confirm

Yeah, I think it's right. I think I did what Tom said to do as per brushforhire's thread. Just wanted to be sure. Thanks Trevor.

[atomic_hoji]

1. looks like fuel - trace it toward the engine, should run along the side of the cyl. head and up to the fuel rail.
2. purge solenoid - should have an electrical connector just above (power to sol'd) and a tube will run to the firewall to the NON-fuel supply line from the fuel tank; can follow the pair of hard lines under the car rearward. This vents the fuel canister I believe.
3. no idea? I don't have a rear line like that, unless the Corolla(sedan) has heater lines different than the I'm. Maybe run back to the block and see where it comes from?
4. valve cover vent - as Trevor noted does to a nipple on the intake tube a few inches before your throttle body.

Sorry, on phone, so short and probably type-o filled.. lol

-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

1. looks like fuel - trace it toward the engine, should run along the side of the cyl. head and up to the fuel rail.
2. purge solenoid - should have an electrical connector just above (power to sol'd) and a tube will run to the firewall to the NON-fuel supply line from the fuel tank; can follow the pair of hard lines under the car rearward. This vents the fuel canister I believe.
3. no idea? I don't have a rear line like that, unless the Corolla(sedan) has heater lines different than the I'm. Maybe run back to the block and see where it comes from?
4. valve cover vent - as Trevor noted does to a nipple on the intake tube a few inches before your throttle body.

Sorry, on phone, so short and probably type-o filled.. lol

-- Adam

"Type-o-filled" - like most of my posts. :laugh:

Thanks for the explanations! I should have recongized #2 as I changed out the purge solenoid and NVLD pump on my Grand Caravan...duh! Haha.

#3 goes to the connector on the intake manifold; the one that I couldn't find the hose for, but was sitting right next to it. LOL! I think this is where the brake booster gets its vacuum from. Again, I think it connects to that long hose that is held up under the wiper tray and goes to the brake booster.

Getting excited for 'start-up day'!

Then, it's exhaust work and then finally A/C.

[ArmstrongRacing]

https://i.imgur.com/CjLkfju.jpg

#1 - You will need to remove the metal connector on the fuel line in the center of this picture. You will need a special fuel line tool to get it off, like this :(skip to 5:00 mark)

https://youtu.be/JFUmQF82GW0

#2 - yes, purge hose that goes to evap metal pipe on firewall (regular hose barb, not fuel line barb)

#3 - yes, brake booster

#4 - yes, to intake boot

post #219 looks good as well

[06YarisRS]

#1 - You will need to remove the metal connector on the fuel line in the center of this picture. You will need a special fuel line tool to get it off, like this :(skip to 5:00 mark)

https://youtu.be/JFUmQF82GW0

#2 - yes, purge hose that goes to evap metal pipe on firewall (regular hose barb, not fuel line barb)

#3 - yes, brake booster

#4 - yes, to intake boot

post #219 looks good as well

Thanks very much Tom! Re: fuel line connector. After reading your post, I thought, "Hey, I'll just get my dremel tool out and carefully grind away until I can carefully remove the connector without damaging the fuel line". Then I thought, "Well, maybe not such a great idea as it is a FUEL line"! That could make a quick end to this project! I will find the tool.

Just got the lower rad hose on. The clamp was a bear as the tabs had bent over. Got them bent back in the vice and the clamp is now on nice and tight. Tonight the airbox goes in and all tubing attached. Time permitting, oil, ATF and coolant will be 'added'.

I feel a start attempt is imminent. I'm tempted to start it without the exhaust attached but that is probably not advisable. Regardless, before the first start, I'll be querying you guys. Thanks very much again.

[tmontague]

Hell, give it a go, I ran mine with open headers :D

Great job so far

[06YarisRS]

Hell, give it a go, I ran mine with open headers :D

Great job so far


Haha, I just might fire it up without exhaust. What a racket she'll make LOL.

Didn't get as much done as I had wanted to tonight. I really wanted to get the airbox on. I think I'll leave the battery out until the fuel line is dealt with. I did get the transmission cooler lines reconnected, replaced - with new WS - the drained atf, which I didn't really need to drain, but it was close to my scheduled change out anyway. I bent my A/C line at the bottom, where you did Trevor to take pressure off the hose, hooked up all the A/C lines, hooked up the evap lines and brake booster line. I also reinstalled the front crossmember. What slowed me down a bit was that I realized after most of the front was put back together that I had left the hood latch on the outside. After examining it, I realized (of course, silly me) that all I had to do was disconnect the cable and pass it back through.

The young fella is coming back tomorrow to help install the exhaust, so I maybe won't get to start it without exhaust after all. This fuel line is now what will hold me up. Oh, and I did source a low profile mini add-a-circuit today at the local parts store and for only $11.00 (school discount LOL). But, of course I forgot to get another low profile fuse. Of course, there were no spares in the under hood fuse box. Maybe there are in the inside fuse box. And I have double the chance, as I have two Yari!


Anyway, here is the current state of the car. This pic was taken before I moved the latch back inside and mounted it. Oh, and that fat short hose on top of the engine is just a remnant from the Yaris hoses.

https://i.imgur.com/8cS1Jmj.jpg

[tmontague]

You shouldn't need a mini fuse for the mini fuse tap. A regular fuse will work it will just extend out a little further that is all. Since it travels horizontally it won't interfere with th cover.

Triple check those a/c lines and make sure they are secure!

[06YarisRS]

You shouldn't need a mini fuse for the mini fuse tap. A regular fuse will work it will just extend out a little further that is all. Since it travels horizontally it won't interfere with th cover.

Triple check those a/c lines and make sure they are secure!

Hey Trevor. I actually picked up a low profile fuse on the way to work today. I was referencing your pic for placement in the fuse box and it didn't look like the non-low profile ones would fit due to an adjacent obstruction in the fuse box.

MAF Voltage question... When I was picking my fuse up, I was explaining to the counter guy what I was using this to power a MAF sensor. He advised that I not supply the MAF sensor with straight 12 volts and said it should receive about 5V. I know you guys have been wiring direct. Are there any issues with providing 12V directly to the MAF?

Thanks!

[tmontague]

Zero issue what so ever. Iirc tom original thread stated that the maf needs to receive 12v power source not 5v

[06YarisRS]

Zero issue what so ever. Iirc tom original thread stated that the maf needs to receive 12v power source not 5v

Great. Thanks. I was inquiring more out of interest as I would, without hesitation, take your guys' word over anyone elses'. You guys have proven that this all works.

[ArmstrongRacing]

If you follow the black power supply from the “air flow meter”(pg 3) back to the source, it’s supplied by the same EFI#1 fuse(pg1) as the B+ battery signal to the ECM.

http://toyota-corolla.ru/rm04f1ru/ewd/ewd/contents/system/print/ECS-1ZR.pdf

[06YarisRS]

The Good: It started after about 5 seconds of cranking. The engine runs very smooth and sounds good.

The Bad: 1) I have a battery light and 10.2 volts. EDIT: I now have less than 9 volts and the car won't turn over. I guess I'll take the alternator off and have it tested.

Could some of the other problems be caused by low voltage?

2) I'll let the picture do the talking.

https://i.imgur.com/2yYTWJI.jpg

I don't know whether to laugh or cry!

Hoping to get your advice/opinions, gents!

I'm pretty sure all the conectors are attached.

For the P0102, I'll check my connections again, clean the MAF sensor. I do not have a clamp on the intake tube at the throttebody, so maybe that's the problem.

Air fuel ratio looks good at around 14.7:1

[ArmstrongRacing]

Regarding the charging issue, I would follow this link and look at the image on page 62.

https://www.slideshare.net/crcs2009/2009-2010-toyota-corolla-electrical-wiring-diagrams

The battery light means there is less voltage at the regulator diodes than the battery. Pins 1&2 should both have battery voltage with the ignition on, if not the alternator will not charge. The other white #1 is the large cable to the battery and that should also have battery voltage.
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The MAF codes I believe, are referring to an incorrect signal back to the ECM. Double check that you have 12v at the CENTER wire on the MAF plug, that should be the wire you applied the add-a-circuit to. Check that there is no pinch or fray damage to the MAF harness.
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I'm gonna check on the other code, that's confusing...I'll return to edit

EDIT: I looked over Brushforhire's and my own swap thread, and yes the only wiring required to correct the P2770 is that the Blue wire(pin 9) is grounded EXITING the control plug(not the wire coming from the harness). Double check that the crimp and attachment to the trans is solid.

[06YarisRS]

Regarding the charging issue, I would follow this link and look at the image on page 62.

https://www.slideshare.net/crcs2009/2009-2010-toyota-corolla-electrical-wiring-diagrams

The battery light means there is less voltage at the regulator diodes than the battery. Pins 1&2 should both have battery voltage with the ignition on, if not the alternator will not charge. The other white #1 is the large cable to the battery and that should also have battery voltage.
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The MAF codes I believe, are referring to an incorrect signal back to the ECM. Double check that you have 12v at the CENTER wire on the MAF plug, that should be the wire you applied the add-a-circuit to. Check that there is no pinch or fray damage to the MAF harness.
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I'm gonna check on the other code, that's confusing...I'll return to edit

EDIT: I looked over Brushforhire's and my own swap thread, and yes the only wiring required to correct the P2770 is that the Blue wire(pin 9) is grounded EXITING the control plug(not the wire coming from the harness). Double check that the crimp and attachment to the trans is solid.

Thank you Tom!

The blue wire comes out of pin 10 on my connector unless I'm reading the diagram incorrectly. The connector in this pic below comes from my scionXd wiring diagrams.

https://i.imgur.com/PZB7J2U.jpg

I will follow up on your suggestions. Last night I went back out and unplugged and replugged the MAF sensor connector. I reset the codes and the only one that is returning is the P2770 code after 5 or 6 mintues of running. I had the battery connected with jumper cables to my van. Maybe it takes longer for the codes to set.

To add to this, my A/C compressor sounds really noisy, like a bearing is bad. It's like an unlubricated metal on metal sound.

I had so hoped that everything would be good on my startup. Looks like I still have some work ahead of me!

[tmontague]

I'd double check your ground on the trans. Use a multimeter or test light and make sure it is a good ground. If that's good then check the wiring.

Glad to hear the rest of the codes cleared up. Congrats on the start up, dont be upset about a few bugs that need to be worked out, its par for the course

[06YarisRS]

Thanks you guys. You really take the edge off the worry. I have another thought. My CA2 connector may not be 100% seated. I recall it going in a bit hard and I taped it up too far, losing flexibility. Of course I'm at work and wanting to run out the door, go home and check it. I don't know if this has anything to do with the charging but I bet it might be the cause of the trans code. Probably all wishful thinking on my part, but nevertheless a place to check first.

[tmontague]

When you get home use a tool to read voltage while the car is running and push on the connector or wiggle it, see the voltage changes.

Until then accept what is and let it go. You'll be more fresh when you get back to the car

[atomic_hoji]

Man, you're doing great so far! Only a few little hiccups.. :thumbsup:

Tom and Trevor have already noted good troubleshooting steps, but if you are having alt. problems the low voltage could very well be tripping up those other systems. Between that and checking your grounds and/or soldered and wire connections I think you'll be in good shape.

A/C could be pulley bearing? Could squirt some lube and see if it quiets - would need replacing long run. I don't recall, but you're sure you have enough oil in it?

Keep at it! And no need to cry, laughing is always better - even at the bad stuff; everything can be fixed (some things just make a bigger mountain.. lol). Swearing and hitting it sometimes helps makes you feel better, but I've found rarely helps - and often ends up hurting.. :biggrin:

-- Adam

[ArmstrongRacing]

Can you post a picture of the xD transmission diagram to verify? I don’t have access to any.

[06YarisRS]

Can you post a picture of the xD transmission diagram to verify? I don’t have access to any.

Hi Tom.

Here is a pic of my current connector with ground.

I'll post the requested diagram shortly - as soon as I figure out which one I need for you.

https://i.imgur.com/VZceodu.jpg

Here is the diagram. I can send you the pdf if that helps. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/YPMbHnL.jpg

[atomic_hoji]

Unless there's a trick with the autobox, pin 10 on your connector should run through the engine harness from the ECM to the transmission, not from ground to the transmission.

The way it looks right now is that the ECM will ask for S2 solenoid and I have no idea where the blue wire in the engine harness is, but if it's touching something it could be causing a ground fault. What the ECM wants is to power output S2 and energize the coil - power from ECM, through a coil, to the ground in the ECT solenoid box.

At least that's how I interpret it..

edit: looking at my Gen 3 diagram the pins on C29 connector for the xD match the Yaris' autobox inputs i.e. pin 1 on the xD connector pairs to THO; pin 2 to ST; ...; pin 9 SLU-; pin 10 S2. Only pin 7 should be blanked/empty.

-- Adam