2zR swap worth it?

[R2564952]

I see guys doing the swap, my goal is to keep up with traffic in an on-ramp without pushing the car so hard and to overtake easier. Can someone who’s driven or completed the swap elaborate on the difference in these situations? Have you raced a 1.5 Yaris to see difference?

Also Ive negotiated a 43k engine with complete exhaust, accessories, MAF and mounts for $600 from a 2011 XD? It’s auto and my 07 Yaris hatch is manual so I didn’t ask for the harness or ecm. Is there something else I should ask for from that car? Airbox is broken :(

[DarkShadowFox]

I see guys doing the swap, my goal is to keep up with traffic in an on-ramp without pushing the car so hard and to overtake easier. Can someone who’s driven or completed the swap elaborate on the difference in these situations? Have you raced a 1.5 Yaris to see difference?

Also Ive negotiated a 43k engine with complete exhaust, accessories, MAF and mounts for $600 from a 2011 XD? It’s auto and my 07 Yaris hatch is manual so I didn’t ask for the harness or ecm. Is there something else I should ask for from that car? Airbox is broken :(

harness and the ECM. how will you run the vehicle, cant use the stock ecm. also cant use the manual Ecm, you need the XD cv axels, brakes, hubs, line hookups....rims....alot of things you should use the search function theres two threads three threads on this topic.

edit: a 2011 xd is like 28 more HP, you will be able to merge.... quicker. -15% drivetrain loss.

:hitcomputer:

[ArmstrongRacing]

Read any of the other swap threads on here, they’re full of the info

ANY 2zr can be used with the Yaris transmissions, and the acceleration increase is quite noticeable.

[DarkShadowFox]

heres what to do.

http://yarisworld.com/forums/search.php?searchid=2228968

[atomic_hoji]

I see guys doing the swap, my goal is to keep up with traffic in an on-ramp without pushing the car so hard and to overtake easier. Can someone who’s driven or completed the swap elaborate on the difference in these situations? Have you raced a 1.5 Yaris to see difference?

Also Ive negotiated a 43k engine with complete exhaust, accessories, MAF and mounts for $600 from a 2011 XD? It’s auto and my 07 Yaris hatch is manual so I didn’t ask for the harness or ecm. Is there something else I should ask for from that car? Airbox is broken :(

$600 with ancillaries sounds like a pretty good deal honestly - not sure what the going rate is South of the border, but I paid over double that in CDN$ to get my 2ZR-FAE with starter, alternator, etc.. mine did come with wiring harness attached and mostly complete, and fortunately was a MT harness going in a MT Yaris. On top of that I then had to buy the RH side mounts new.. Never hurts to have the wiring in order have spare wire with terminals to use for needed modifications. The ECM being for an AT won't help you though, no - you'll need to find an ECM from a MT Scion xD.

I find the difference is most noticeable in how the 2ZR delivers power. The 1NZ was decently peppy, but at higher revs, so anytime I wanted to merge or pass I felt like I was flogging on it; usually did so just fine, but it wasn't at all the giddy-up like my FJ Cruiser or our Honda Odyssey has: foot down, revs up, off you go.. :biggrin: With the 2ZR swapped in there is a noticeable constant pull feeling, so merging quickly or passing has a more solid feel to it. Overall I notice it is more zippy too - it's by no means OMG-pushed-into-my-seat-racecar fast, but it's fun, pulls hard through the rev range, and provides a solid feeling to confidently get into traffic or pass. A couple of the guys on here autocross and track their Yaris' and can probably give you a better comparison. As ArmstrongRacing mentioned, there are a number of swaps documented in the Performance Modifications section - take the time to have a read through and you'll find the bumps-along-the-road we've experienced.

Haven't tried a pull against a stock Yaris. Would be interested to see how different it really is... Haven't come across another Yaris owner locally who I get the impression would really want to put the hammer down and run their stock 1NZ up to the limit to find out.. :laugh:

If you decide to pull the trigger on the 2ZR and get into a swap definitely start a build thread! :thumbsup:

-- Adam

[DarkShadowFox]

$600 with ancillaries sounds like a pretty good deal honestly - not sure what the going rate is South of the border, but I paid over double that in CDN$ to get my 2ZR-FAE with starter, alternator, etc.. mine did come with wiring harness attached and mostly complete, and fortunately was a MT harness going in a MT Yaris. On top of that I then had to buy the RH side mounts new.. Never hurts to have the wiring in order have spare wire with terminals to use for needed modifications. The ECM being for an AT won't help you though, no - you'll need to find an ECM from a MT Scion xD.

I find the difference is most noticeable in how the 2ZR delivers power. The 1NZ was decently peppy, but at higher revs, so anytime I wanted to merge or pass I felt like I was flogging on it; usually did so just fine, but it wasn't at all the giddy-up like my FJ Cruiser or our Honda Odyssey has: foot down, revs up, off you go.. :biggrin: With the 2ZR swapped in there is a noticeable constant pull feeling, so merging quickly or passing has a more solid feel to it. Overall I notice it is more zippy too - it's by no means OMG-pushed-into-my-seat-racecar fast, but it's fun, pulls hard through the rev range, and provides a solid feeling to confidently get into traffic or pass. A couple of the guys on here autocross and track their Yaris' and can probably give you a better comparison. As ArmstrongRacing mentioned, there are a number of swaps documented in the Performance Modifications section - take the time to have a read through and you'll find the bumps-along-the-road we've experienced.

Haven't tried a pull against a stock Yaris. Would be interested to see how different it really is... Haven't come across another Yaris owner locally who I get the impression would really want to put the hammer down and run their stock 1NZ up to the limit to find out.. :laugh:

If you decide to pull the trigger on the 2ZR and get into a swap definitely start a build thread! :thumbsup:

-- Adam

i flog my yaris all the time , lets go mate, got a high pressure rad cap.

[06YarisRS]

$600.00 is an amazing deal if the stuff is in good shape. I paid $700.00 alone for my engine, also from the USA. It has almost exactly the same mileage as the one you are looking at. I was close to $3000.00 Canadian by the time I was done. Hell, I'm not even done yet; still working on A/C.

I've only driven mine a handful of times, but, like Adam and Tom say, there's definitely a difference, especially through the rpm range. If you can get similar good pricing on the other parts, I'd be all over that. Do it! Haha.

Next summer, I might do a head-to-head against my stock '08. Just need to find a driver I can trust - certainly not any of the local hillbillies. :laugh:

[tmontague]

I see guys doing the swap, my goal is to keep up with traffic in an on-ramp without pushing the car so hard and to overtake easier. Can someone who’s driven or completed the swap elaborate on the difference in these situations? Have you raced a 1.5 Yaris to see difference?

Also Ive negotiated a 43k engine with complete exhaust, accessories, MAF and mounts for $600 from a 2011 XD? It’s auto and my 07 Yaris hatch is manual so I didn’t ask for the harness or ecm. Is there something else I should ask for from that car? Airbox is broken :(

price and mileage is good if the engine checks out but you'll have to figure out the harness and ecu due to it being the wrong trans. Hell, for that price just pick up a harness and ecu off ebay and if you can't find the harness then just pay for an oem one. You would still come out way on top.

My question for you would be this: do you redline your engine on on ramps to get up to speed currently? if the answer is no then start doing that. If you still find the engine is too slow then go for the swap. Unless the swap is more for your own knowledge and fun of wrenching. The 1nz has more than enough power in the m/t if the driver has the balls to actually redline it. Problem is most people are used to big v8's and the torque they have at 2500rpm. They get scared to make a 4 banger scream to get into the power band.

If you want an engine that you "don't have to push then engine hard" then your need to look at a v8 and in that case a whole new car. The 2zr is not your answer, it likes to scream up to redline like any 4 banger and it rewards you more so than the 1nz. The power jump isn't huge at approx 25-30 whp but it is very noticeable as it pulls much harder. The main difference is the improved powerband due to the dual vvti and the fact that the 2zr is more than a decade newer and has better tech.

I am very happy I did the swap, but it was much more than a power jump for me. I wanted the experience and challenge of swapping an engine in my driveway and making it e test legal. Prices of swaps vary greatly but for many around this part of the world, it makes more sense to sell the car and get a different car altogether with more after market support.

That said, I love having a sleeper swapped Yaris, something about it that makes me smile every time I drive it

[R2564952]

Thank you all for the replies, I will definitely be pulling the trigger, I’m picking it up this Thursday. I’m not expecting it to be fast, I want a noticeable power difference and based on replies it is definitely noticeable. I like small cars. I have a LS3 1999 miata 485 rwhp and a 1988 Toyota Pickup 310 rwhp with a sbf 302 on trickflow heads and cam. The Yaris is my everyday car so I can’t have too much down time, I’m hoping for 135 rwhp when it’s all done, It just feels really slow at the moment . I will definitely do a build thread.

[myfirstyota]

, you need the XD cv axels, brakes, hubs, line hookups.2 Tail light gaskets 15....:

The hubs are NOT required when keeping the xd transmission and axles. The xd axles are larger on the trans side yes but they slide right into the 4 lug Yaris hubs. This also applies for the rear hubs. Xd, Yaris and Yaris SE disk brake axles all share the same size hubs.only difference is the lug count.

[DarkShadowFox]

The hubs are NOT required when keeping the xd transmission and axles. The xd axles are larger on the trans side yes but they slide right into the 4 lug Yaris hubs. This also applies for the rear hubs. Xd, Yaris and Yaris SE disk brake axles all share the same size hubs.only difference is the lug count.

why wouldnt you swap to 5x100 more wheel options 4x100 is garbage when it comes to wheels. the difference in strength is minimal and you get bigger brakes and you can even add corolla brakes if you want which are massive and powerful.

[tmontague]

why wouldnt you swap to 5x100 more wheel options 4x100 is garbage when it comes to wheels. the difference in strength is minimal and you get bigger brakes and you can even add corolla brakes if you want which are massive and powerful.

There is a ton of great aftermarket wheels offered in 4x100 unless you want to go to an all show and no go 17" + wheel.

Corolla brakes are not needed unless you want the bling factor which it hardly benefits. It upsets the brake bias unless you are going to the trouble of dealing with an aftermarket brake cylinder and/or proportioning vakve and brake booster. All that is needed is proper brake pads to deal with the temp range you operate in. This will give you more brake than you ever need and much more than a corolla brake.

[Ronnie V]

5x100 has to be the worst wheel option bolt pattern out there. I'm with Trev.......4x100 is the deal. Get yourself a set of 15x7 rpf1's and consider that part of the car done.

[stidnam]

Yeah not enough 5x100 options in 15 or 16" wheels. 4x100 is actually perfect, and it helps that the MX5 is also 4x100, which opens up dozens of options. Upgrading the front hubs would also require you to address the rears as well. Literally nothing to gain.

BTW, factory MX5 wheels look really good on the Yaris ;)

https://i.ibb.co/X25Nm9k/Yaris.jpg

[myfirstyota]

One good reason to stay 4x100 is the stealth factor. I plan on boosting my swap. To me a 5 bolt hub is a dead giveaway something's up.

Another reason to stay 4 bolt (for me anyway) is the fact I didn't want a 5 bolt front and a 4 bolt rear. The Yaris se rear axle with disk brakes I scored at the upull 2 weeks ago for $50 only comes in the 4 bolt flavour. 5 on the front and 4 in the rear makes carrying a spare tire like a trip to Vegas.

[CrankyOldMan]

I see guys doing the swap, my goal is to keep up with traffic in an on-ramp without pushing the car so hard and to overtake easier. Can someone who’s driven or completed the swap elaborate on the difference in these situations? Have you raced a 1.5 Yaris to see difference?

Also Ive negotiated a 43k engine with complete exhaust, accessories, MAF and mounts for $600 from a 2011 XD? It’s auto and my 07 Yaris hatch is manual so I didn’t ask for the harness or ecm. Is there something else I should ask for from that car? Airbox is broken :(

I agree with the comments about not being afraid to get up into high rpms--the 1NZ really wakes up at 4k and will pull up to about 5500. The 2ZR with a high flow exhaust setup will pull hard all the way to redline at 6500. On ramps are a non-issue for me, even if traffic is doing 75-80 mph. =)

Definitely spend some time going through the existing build threads. You're fine to use the Yaris gearbox with the 2ZR. That's what most of us have done initially and it allows you to keep the stock axles. You'll need to source an xD ECU, engine harness and all of the xD engine/trans mounts (both the vehicle and engine sides!) for whichever type (auto/manual) you choose. You can use an AT harness on an MT swap, but not the other way around.

I wouldn't worry about going with the xD trans/axles/hubs unless you're planning on making over 300 bhp. Garm did a build on his 1NZ that dyno'd over 350 bhp on stock axles and 4x100 wheels with no reports of things being broken. In theory you could get the rear beam axle from an xD to get 5x100 in the rear, but I don't know if anyone has attempted that.

[myfirstyota]

. In theory you could get the rear beam axle from an xD to get 5x100 in the rear, but I don't know if anyone has attempted that.

You don't need to swap the whole axle, just the hubs/bearings and I would imagine the xd drum setup. Unless you redrill the yaris drum to 5 bolt.

During my swap I spent a bit of time comparing hubs/bearings. Seems to me everything fits everywhere. Xd to Yaris, Yaris to Yaris se, Yaris se to xd... It all bolts up. You just have to match your brakes to your lug setup.

If you're going 5 lug on the front, you'll need xd rotors/calipers or redrill the 4 lug rotors.

4 lug on the front, stock Yaris brakes or Yaris se big brakes

5 lug on the rear, xd drums or redrill Yaris drums to
4x100.

However I have not yet checked ebrake cable compatibility between Yaris drums and xd drums. I would imagine the brake line is compatible.

As for the se rear disks, we know there is different lines and ebrake cables for the calipers

I chose to stay 4 bolt on the front so it matches my rear disk brake axle. As far as I know, I can't convert the rear disk brakes to a 5 lug setup using off the shelf parts.

[enviri]

the whole xd rear drum assembly including the 5lug hub should fit. yaris and xd share the same axle beam. the xd drum is larger than the yaris.

[R2564952]

Just bought the engine this morning, can someone with a manual tell me the part number of the ecu they used? The one without vehicle anti theft. Also I’m thinking of using the auto xD harness, removing all auto related wiring from harness, removing the manual related wiring from my Yaris harness, and placing them in the proper pins locations in the XD harness, has anybody done this? Thanks again guys

[myfirstyota]

I could post my ecu part number tomorrow as I'm about 2 hours away from the car at the moment. The part numbers are listed on a buildnthread somewhere though. Maybe crankyoldmans thread.

[myfirstyota]

the whole xd rear drum assembly including the 5lug hub should fit. yaris and xd share the same axle beam. the xd drum is larger than the yaris.

The xd drum wheel bearing/hub does bolt up to the Yaris axle. That's a fact. I did it myself. Only thing I don't know as of yet is if the ebrake cable and brake likne from the Yaris fit on the xd drum.

[CrankyOldMan]

Just bought the engine this morning, can someone with a manual tell me the part number of the ecu they used? The one without vehicle anti theft. Also I’m thinking of using the auto xD harness, removing all auto related wiring from harness, removing the manual related wiring from my Yaris harness, and placing them in the proper pins locations in the XD harness, has anybody done this? Thanks again guys

Pretty sure all but the last one is what you need.

89661-52F82 (09/2008 - 03/2009)
89661-52F83 (04/2009 - 06/2009)
89661-52M10 (07/2009 - 07/2010) <--I found one of these.
89661-52T90 (08/2010 - 07/2012)

I think at least one of the build threads is with an AT harness on an MT build, don't recall which one.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Im still using an auto harness...have been the whole time I've had the 2zr swap lol

Everything on the Auto harness is in the correct position, with the exception of the wires for reverse lights

[thebarber]

5x100 was way more popular in the 00’s when mk4 jettas/golfs and Imprezas were popular. As someone who was just looking for 5x100 wheels for his 11 outback, 4x100 is MUCH easier to find something decent, light, and/or cheap

[R2564952]

I went ahead and installed my 2zr today, apparently the xD doesn’t have the speedo sensor so I removed the speedo at the plug and installed it in the same location on the xD harness. Speedo works. the engine feels much more eager to rev. I’ll take it out tomorrow as I had to glue some tabs on my headlight with dp420 glue and it takes a day to cure. I’ll likely drive it over so I can have it checked off for smog by the highway patrol, ( that’s how they do it in Cali) then get rid of the 1 1/2 inch exhaust for 2.5 from the resonator back. Thank you all. Pics at @thelittlebluecar

[06YarisRS]

Awesome! I'd be interested in your impressions of the performance difference just before and right after you upgrade the exhaust from stock to the 2.5". I hate to ask, but any chance you could do a before and after video of the acceleration? Thanks!

[R2564952]

No problem, I took it out on a canyon drive with my wife and the car feels much better in canyons. I don’t have to rev it so high and the power is awesome. Take into consideration I have a 550 whp Miata that weighs about the same as my yari, yet I still find this car a blast to drive. On my way to my sons soccer practice it feel much more confident in passing situations. I have a state referee appointment on the 23rd of this month. Once that’s sorted out I will add a k&N filter, cut a.couple holes in the airbox so the car can breathe easier and of course the 2.5” exhaust from the resonator back.

Future plans include the possibility of a first gen eclipse (tdo5h) 16G turbo tuned to 210 whp...It’s a compact turbo and only $300 on eBay. I’ll likely have my local turbo rebuilder take out the junky China bearings and seals and add some Japanese parts into it as that’s what fails, he’s done it before and had great results with them lasting over 5 years in customer cars.

[ern-diz]

No problem, I took it out on a canyon drive with my wife and the car feels much better in canyons. I don’t have to rev it so high and the power is awesome. Take into consideration I have a 550 whp Miata that weighs about the same as my yari, yet I still find this car a blast to drive. On my way to my sons soccer practice it feel much more confident in passing situations. I have a state referee appointment on the 23rd of this month. Once that’s sorted out I will add a k&N filter, cut a.couple holes in the airbox so the car can breathe easier and of course the 2.5” exhaust from the resonator back.

Future plans include the possibility of a first gen eclipse (tdo5h) 16G turbo tuned to 210 whp...It’s a compact turbo and only $300 on eBay. I’ll likely have my local turbo rebuilder take out the junky China bearings and seals and add some Japanese parts into it as that’s what fails, he’s done it before and had great results with them lasting over 5 years in customer cars.

Tremendous!:clap:

[R2564952]

Reporting in, 345 miles to my last tank. I’ve realized the engine can be a little thirsty when driving it hard, after getting “over it” I started driving not normal and behold!... 345 miles to my tank! Pretty awesome. Keep in mind I’m driving normal and not hyper mile-ing it

[06YarisRS]

Reporting in, 345 miles to my last tank. I’ve realized the engine can be a little thirsty when driving it hard, after getting “over it” I started driving not normal and behold!... 345 miles to my tank! Pretty awesome. Keep in mind I’m driving normal and not hyper mile-ing it

Very nice!

You mention in your previous post the 16G turbo. Would you use this because it's smaller than other turbos? I've often wondered if there is enough room to mount a turbo/manifold between the head and firewall in the hatchback after a 2ZR swap. Where would you get a manifold that fits the 2ZR for this turbo?. Also, would you use the AEM FIC to manage the system? Sorry for all of the questions, but this really interests me.

[R2564952]

I’ll likely do aem to manage it, my goal is 200 whp. I may go for a tdo5 turbo with the standard size wheel so it can boost earlier and keep boost at 9-11psi.

On an other note, the car passed the BAR inspection today with flying colors. The tech said he had never seen the swap done before and was surprised to see how OEM it looked. The only thing holding me back from getting the approval sticker is... I need to have a dealer update the latest and greatest flash available for a Scion xD.

[06YarisRS]

Had a look at the TDO5 turbos on eBay. It's pretty tight behind the 2ZR, but I guess you'd never know until the stock manifold was removed. I was under the car and, with the 2ZR packed in there, it's hard to get a good sense of how much actual room is available. Did you have a lead on a manifold? One I saw on eBay looked like it had the hole for the BOV sticking straight out of the manifold aiming at the firewall. Can't see that fitting. The MWR kit appears to mount the BOV on the piping.

Good luck with your sticker. I wonder if you will notice even a slight difference in performance after the flash.

[CrankyOldMan]

Turbokits.com sells a log style manifold with a T25 flange. I bought one for my parts bin with the intention of trying it "some day". =) Pretty sure that's part of the kit they sell on MWR.

[Leegamer]

It would require a lot of custom work but remote mount turbo would be cool if you have limited space in the bay. Or you could stick the turbo out of the hood, lol

[06YarisRS]

Thanks gentlemen. I have set myself on a path to learn as much as I can about the subject of turbocharging a Yaris hatchback. It is something that I would like to do down the road - maybe way down the road - but certainly not before I have a very comprehensive understanding of everything involved. The latest springs from my conversation with a tuner in New Brunswick who advises against the AEM FIC as he claims it cannot know of or control fuel trims. He does think that with a standalone - such as the EMS-4, that I could probably go low boost (6 - 8 lbs) safely without an intercooler. But I would worry about heat related detonation. We did briefly speak about meth injection, but I think I'd rather an intercooler as opposed to that. I have so much learning to do, but it is infinitely interesting.

Sam, I'll pop over to turbokits.com and look at the manifold. Have you ever given thought to parting with your manifold?

[Maritime]

Who's your tuner? I'm far away from a turbo but would love to have someone to talk about it local if I ever get to that point. I feel like after the Baja conversion and a 2zr swap it would be a fun next step. I plan to keep the Yaris until it won't pass safety anymore and that would be from bad body rust as I can fix anything else. Glad so far the rust has stayed away.

[CrankyOldMan]

Sam, I'll pop over to turbokits.com and look at the manifold. Have you ever given thought to parting with your manifold?

I bought it for curiosity as well as for insurance. I wasn't able to get in on the RPM long tube header before it went out of production and I'd rather not get stung that way again. You can buy just the manifold directly from TKC if you don't want to go for a full kit. They also offer packages with the manifold, down tube and your choice of turbo. Granted that's designed for the Corolla/Matrix/Vibe platform so the down tube might not be usable as is. I figure that the whole thing will need to be custom built and the manifold is the only pre-fab part I can use for sure.

[06YarisRS]

Who's your tuner? I'm far away from a turbo but would love to have someone to talk about it local if I ever get to that point. I feel like after the Baja conversion and a 2zr swap it would be a fun next step. I plan to keep the Yaris until it won't pass safety anymore and that would be from bad body rust as I can fix anything else. Glad so far the rust has stayed away.

I've spoken twice with Danny from JD Racing in Trois-Ruisseaux. Seems like a very knowledgeable fella.

Lay the oil to the Yaris and you'll never have to deal with rust. I can tell you all the spots to hit. In fact, I just had my '08 up on the hoist today and gave it another blast of Proform.

[Maritime]

Cool. I wish I had access to a hoist. I have to do everything on stands.

Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk

[06YarisRS]

Cool. I wish I had access to a hoist. I have to do everything on stands.

Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk

Yeah, I do a lot of my stuff on jackstands in my garage, sometimes for rustproofing too. I did my swap in the garage with the car jacked about 18" in the air. Getting the hoist at work is hit and miss. Just before I bring my '06 out in the spring, I'll be doing rustproofing touch ups in the garage with spray cans.

With regard to the turbo, Danny at JD Racing strongly recommends against the AEM FIC in favour of a standalone due to issues with FIC tuning. He says that fuel trims cannot be manipulated in any meaningful way and that the FIC and car's ECU will constantly fighting eachother. I was surprised by this as I've read about successful prepacked turbo kit installs from MWR and tubrokits.com.

[myfirstyota]

Yeah, I do a lot of my stuff on jackstands in my garage, sometimes for rustproofing too. I did my swap in the garage with the car jacked about 18" in the air. Getting the hoist at work is hit and miss. Just before I bring my '06 out in the spring, I'll be doing rustproofing touch ups in the garage with spray cans.

With regard to the turbo, Danny at JR Racing strongly recommends against the AEM FIC in favour of a standalone due to issues with FIC tuning. He says that fuel trims cannot be manipulated in any meaningful way and that the FIC and car's ECU will constantly fighting eachother. I was surprised by this as I've read about successful prepacked turbo kit installs from MWR and tubrokits.com.

Yea, not news I want to hear. I have plans to install one of them nifty tkc kits.

[CrankyOldMan]

Yea, not news I want to hear. I have plans to install one of them nifty tkc kits.

I looked into complete standalone stuff for my pipe dream twin charged 1NZ build and decided that the way to go was a MegaSquirt DIYPNP with the ECU connector from an Echo/MR2 (https://www.diyautotune.com/product/diypnp-nippon-denso-76pin-unassembled-kit/) so that I can use the original wire harness and connectors. They don't offer a kit for the Yaris/xD/Corolla ECU connector, so you'd have to fabricate something else. No idea if you'd pass emissions inspection with that since it's only rated for off-road use, but I would tend to think you wouldn't.

Holy crap, they're discontinuing a LOT of those connectors. I should probably get off my ass and buy one before they're gone!

[myfirstyota]

I looked into complete standalone stuff for my pipe dream twin charged 1NZ build and decided that the way to go was a MegaSquirt DIYPNP with the ECU connector from an Echo/MR2 (https://www.diyautotune.com/product/diypnp-nippon-denso-76pin-unassembled-kit/) so that I can use the original wire harness and connectors. They don't offer a kit for the Yaris/xD/Corolla ECU connector, so you'd have to fabricate something else. No idea if you'd pass emissions inspection with that since it's only rated for off-road use, but I would tend to think you wouldn't.

Holy crap, they're discontinuing a LOT of those connectors. I should probably get off my ass and buy one before they're gone!

I know megasquirt is a fav amongst the vw crowd. Emissions I'm not concerned about as the testing is extinct here in Ontario as of April. Score!

[suprf1y]

If you want to run MS and maintain the VVT it's not cheap, I think you'll need MS3 pro.

I'm going to ditch the VVT and use Microsquirt V2.2 on the Echo.

I was just thinking of posting a wanted ad for a stock computer for the case and connector

[CrankyOldMan]

If you want to run MS and maintain the VVT it's not cheap, I think you'll need MS3 pro.

I'm going to ditch the VVT and use Microsquirt V2.2 on the Echo.

I was just thinking of posting a wanted ad for a stock computer for the case and connector

I think we're getting off track here for the original topic, but I took a look down the rabbit hole of VVTi on a megasquirt. Looks like there's out-of-the-box support for it on the MS3 Pro, but it may be possible to do something with the MicroSquirt if you know what kind of PWM to generate for the cam solenoids and understand how to build the supporting electronics for the variable reluctance (VR) sensors. Definitely outside of my area of experience right now but if you're gonna build real racecars, you have to learn this stuff. =)

As far as the connector goes, you can get one online for less than US$15. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/178780-1?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKhnV6Nd4ZK0Yw7vTC0RkzXE%3 d

[06YarisRS]

I bought it for curiosity as well as for insurance. I wasn't able to get in on the RPM long tube header before it went out of production and I'd rather not get stung that way again. You can buy just the manifold directly from TKC if you don't want to go for a full kit. They also offer packages with the manifold, down tube and your choice of turbo. Granted that's designed for the Corolla/Matrix/Vibe platform so the down tube might not be usable as is. I figure that the whole thing will need to be custom built and the manifold is the only pre-fab part I can use for sure.

Don't know how I missed this response, Sam. Thanks for it. Yes, I did see the smaller package kits at turbokits. I figured that the downpipe would work as a stock manifold for the Corolla fits and I assumed they would have maintained close dimensions. That said, having never looked under a Corolla, I'm not sure how much more room there is as compared to the Yaris. And, the diameter of the down pipe apprears significantly larger. My first concern is whether or not the manifold and turbo would actually be small enough to fit between the head and firewall, and have enough clearance for engine movement.


I agree with you that a kit for this configuration (2ZR in Yaris) is probably going to have to be mostly custom and therefore likely very expensive. Also, as far as electronic management of the system, from what I've been reading, the AEM FIC - which is more affordable - is less than ideal when compared to a standalone ecu. That alone could add close to $1000.00 to a project.

I see that a member here has a Camcon for sale and apparently it can adjust fuel and timing, but I think I read that it only works for VVTi, not Dual VVTi. Do you know anything about the Camcon?

[CrankyOldMan]

Don't know how I missed this response, Sam. Thanks for it. Yes, I did see the smaller package kits at turbokits. I figured that the downpipe would work as a stock manifold for the Corolla fits and I assumed they would have maintained close dimensions. That said, having never looked under a Corolla, I'm not sure how much more room there is as compared to the Yaris. And, the diameter of the down pipe apprears significantly larger. My first concern is whether or not the manifold and turbo would actually be small enough to fit between the head and firewall, and have enough clearance for engine movement.
Agreed. 2.25 is plenty big enough for NA, 2.5 is probably fine for mild boost. No idea what 3" would do, but they made it for this engine so I'm assuming they know what they're doing. =D

I agree with you that a kit for this configuration (2ZR in Yaris) is probably going to have to be mostly custom and therefore likely very expensive. Also, as far as electronic management of the system, from what I've been reading, the AEM FIC - which is more affordable - is less than ideal when compared to a standalone ecu. That alone could add close to $1000.00 to a project.
You could take a gamble and buy the Corolla kit and do some mods to it. Not the best idea since you'd need to redesign a fair bit of it.

I see that a member here has a Camcon for sale and apparently it can adjust fuel and timing, but I think I read that it only works for VVTi, not Dual VVTi. Do you know anything about the Camcon?

Not familiar with those. Lots of conflicting info about piggybacking on a Toyota ECU, specifically if you can actually wrest control of the fuel trims from the ECU or if you just fight it for a few months and then reset the OEM unit.