Looking for help on ~300 horse build

[Lays]

Hi everyone, I'm building a '15 Yaris for autocross, track, and hill climbs. I was wondering if anyone could look over my plans so far and help me plan my build.

I'd like to shoot for 250-300 wheel horsepower, I have about 7000$ to spend as soon as my second motorcycle sells. I can always spend more later down the road if need be.


The factory ecu is still locked correct? I found a thread saying some guy got his unlocked by some tuning company in Washington. He posted the email and I sent them an email but never got an answer. I also tried googling the name of the company and couldn't find any evidence they even existed.


So I have been looking into standalone, haltech 1500 seems to be go to?


Here's what I have so far on the build list:

Garret 2860 turbo
T25/28 log manifold
Golden eagle intake manifold
Haltech elite 1500 ecu
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Cp Carillo forged pistons 9:1 compression
Brian Crower forged rods
Jun cams, or getting stock ones reground
Bc racing DS series coilovers 7k front 9k rear
Konig hypergram 15x7.5 +35


I don't have an intercooler in mind yet, but I'm fairly sure the big gap between the front bumper cover and radiator should allow me to get some sort of decent sized universal one.

As for throttle body, and injectors I'm not sure either.



I know I'm still missing quite a bit, which is why I wanted to ask for advice.

I've already spoke to a tuner that recommended I get a haltech and around the same size turbo I've mentioned.

Thanks guys!

[tmontague]

I'm not necessarily the guy to speak to regarding turbo builds but from listening to many other people who have a lot of experience in this area in regards to trying to build a turbo motor on an original NA motor and make it reliable at your whp range, you will need to raise your budget a few grand.

The best advice I was ever given was "fast, cheap, reliable - pick two"

I'm not saying 7 grand is a "cheap" amount by any means, but to properly manage heat and maintain those power numbers I would expect it to cost an easy 10 grand.

It's one thing to build a street cruiser but a serious track rat that can do more than 10 min sessions will start to show all the weaknesses.

Just my $0.02

[Lays]

I'm not necessarily the guy to speak to regarding turbo builds but from listening to many other people who have a lot of experience in this area in regards to trying to build a turbo motor on an original NA motor and make it reliable at your whp range, you will need to raise your budget a few grand.

The best advice I was ever given was "fast, cheap, reliable - pick two"

I'm not saying 7 grand is a "cheap" amount by any means, but to properly manage heat and maintain those power numbers I would expect it to cost an easy 10 grand.

It's one thing to build a street cruiser but a serious track rat that can do more than 10 min sessions will start to show all the weaknesses.

Just my $0.02


7 grand wasn't my total budget, it's just what I have to start out with. As I get future paychecks etc I can dump more in.

[myfirstyota]

I'll bet 06YarisRS has over 10 grand in his setup and he's only running 7psi boost. Mind you he is 2zr swapped. But probably still 100hp short of your goals.

If you do end up building a 300hp setup, I'll be following

[06YarisRS]

I'll bet 06YarisRS has over 10 grand in his setup and he's only running 7psi boost. Mind you he is 2zr swapped. But probably still 100hp short of your goals.

If you do end up building a 300hp setup, I'll be following

Haha, some day I'll figure out the total cost, but, yeah, it's up there. The 2ZR swap was about $2500.00 USD with all the extras (hardware, engine mount, ecu, harness etc) and the turbo kit, probably about $3500.00 USD, including lots of little extras such as intercooler couplers, hardware, exhaust work, trans cooler with themostatically controlled fan, gauges etc. I made some mistakes and lack of pre-planning (aka, doing the swap before I decided to turbo the car) which cost me money to redo things.

I really hope this build goes forward. I'll definitely be following it too if it does. I'm always looking at lower compression pistons, head gasket, head bolts and rods (Molnar or MWR most recently due to their lower price as opposed to Crower) in the event that I ever decide to build my engine. I've also looked at the Haltech 1500, but the ECUMaster Black looks like a cheaper, and possibly as good, alternative.

Oh, and with regard to hacking the ECU, here is a response I got from ftgtuning (ftgtuning@gmail.com):

#1 send me a picture of the ECU tag anf connector you are running so we can see if we have done anything with that variant before.
#2 are you using the factory pressure sensor?

Depending on the ECU and programming language the only way to force open loop would be with throttle control at a certain percentage (besides WOT) but without spending time working on it we cannot say for sure yet. We have done some other makes to 10-15% throttle to drop into open loop and that works well.

Just to give you a heads up if we can do what you want it is going to be ~$350 for the work and we would need your ECU sent to us to do it. Before we get to that though send a picture and we can figure out what we can and cannot do for you.

[tmontague]

Great info on the ECU hack. $350 is somewhat reasonable and I will he looking into this for next season

[06YarisRS]

Great info on the ECU hack. $350 is somewhat reasonable and I will he looking into this for next season

Yeah, I'm seriously considering having them do something with my ecu. First, however, I have to find out all the potential pitfalls of forcing the car into open loop at lower throttle positions. Of course, a completely new fuel map would be needed. That could be tricky. It might be worth the investment to buy on eBay a used ECU and have it delivered directly to them and ask them to list everything that they could do with it. I only paid ~$18.00 for my ecu with free shipping, so that's squat. I wonder what they'd charge to crack into one and see what the capabilities are. Frankly, if I could do away with the F/IC, I would. Maybe our ECUs could be configured to handle low boost, such as mine, without the need for any additional computer. You're running an xD ECU, but for manual, correct?

[tmontague]

Yeah, I'm seriously considering having them do something with my ecu. First, however, I have to find out all the potential pitfalls of forcing the car into open loop at lower throttle positions. Of course, a completely new fuel map would be needed. That could be tricky. It might be worth the investment to buy on eBay a used ECU and have it delivered directly to them and ask them to list everything that they could do with it. I only paid ~$18.00 for my ecu with free shipping, so that's squat. I wonder what they'd charge to crack into one and see what the capabilities are. Frankly, if I could do away with the F/IC, I would. Maybe our ECUs could be configured to handle low boost, such as mine, without the need for any additional computer. You're running an xD ECU, but for manual, correct?
Yup, I have a manual ecu installed. Having them tune an extra ecu would he a bonus so you could always go back to your current set up if needed.

I'll have to contact them down the road to get a price from them. I'm looking to increase the redline to 7500 rpm and have timing advanced for 93 octane.

[06YarisRS]

Nice. I'm guessing you have 93 readily available. Or would you be mixing your own 'track' gas?
I've been reading a bit lately about the 2ZRs having issues with the head gasket between adjacent cylinders. Also, been trying to find out more about head gaskets and head bolts. Everything I've read about the 2ZR suggests that it can handle forced induction at low boost. Although not boosted you've run yours through the ringer and had no issues there, right?

[Lays]

Well nevermind, this morning I totalled my car coming home from work.

I still have some 60 treadwear advans on my car from the last autocross event a few weeks ago, I was planning on putting my normal tires on next week because it's been like low 30 degrees outside.

Rear end came out when I was coming around a corner this morning around midnight, it was 29-31 degrees, I tried to counter steer and save it but no luck.

I went through a telephone pole, a huge fence, and smacked into a giant tree.

[tmontague]

Hole crap dude, I hope you are ok! That a tough loss, hope you recover alright

[tmontague]

Nice. I'm guessing you have 93 readily available. Or would you be mixing your own 'track' gas?
I've been reading a bit lately about the 2ZRs having issues with the head gasket between adjacent cylinders. Also, been trying to find out more about head gaskets and head bolts. Everything I've read about the 2ZR suggests that it can handle forced induction at low boost. Although not boosted you've run yours through the ringer and had no issues there, right?

Some local Esso stations sell 93 and PetroCan have 94. They are not that close to me but convenient enough to go fill up some cans for track days

[Leegamer]

Jesus, glad you're ok!

[06YarisRS]

Yes. Glad you're ok. That looks like quite a fender bender.

[06YarisRS]

Some local Esso stations sell 93 and PetroCan have 94. They are not that close to me but convenient enough to go fill up some cans for track days

I'd love to have access to 94. Fortunately at least I have access to 93 within about a half hour drive. I have to go close to that location once a week anyway. The other thing I've been trying to find out - with no success - is just how much more detonation resistant 93 is as opposed to 91.

[myfirstyota]

Happy to see you're still alive!!!

[Lays]

Here's the rest 😔

[06YarisRS]

Again, glad you were unscathed by what looks to be like quite a serious accident. As for the car... :cry::cry::cry:

[Lays]

Thanks guys.

Now I need to figure out what I want to do next. I still have parts laying around I could put on a new yaris, but I might get a used BRZ or Fiesta ST instead since they're in my price range.

[CrankyOldMan]

Thanks guys.

Now I need to figure out what I want to do next. I still have parts laying around I could put on a new yaris, but I might get a used BRZ or Fiesta ST instead since they're in my price range.

That's some scary stuff, glad you made it out OK. I was a traffic accident investigator in the Army way back in the day and one of my first cases was a fatality. Best I can figure, the car was on high performance summers in the early morning rain. Came around a right hand curve too fast and hydroplaned into the oncoming lane, directly into the front tire of an 18 wheeler full of lumber. The driver was dead by the time I got to the scene. I don't mess around with summer tires until it's consistently above 50, even overnight.

For the numbers you were looking at in the Yaris, the ST would be the way to go. Way more support, more proven builds, more aftermarket availability.

[Leegamer]

Thanks guys.

Now I need to figure out what I want to do next. I still have parts laying around I could put on a new yaris, but I might get a used BRZ or Fiesta ST instead since they're in my price range.

It would be great to see a nice BRZ, all of them around here are widebody with "hotboi" wheels and loud exhaust, but otherwise stock and pretty slow.

[tmontague]

I have to disagree with Cranky on this one and say go with the FT-86. If you plan to track it and autox it then the 86 will be a much more capable chassis. Power is available in the aftermarket once your driver skill gets you to that point. It was meant to be a drivers car from the beginning whereas the fiesta is just a fwd hatch with a turbo thrown in.

Just my $0.02 CAD

[tmontague]

I'd love to have access to 94. Fortunately at least I have access to 93 within about a half hour drive. I have to go close to that location once a week anyway. The other thing I've been trying to find out - with no success - is just how much more detonation resistant 93 is as opposed to 91.

i've looked into that topic as well and couldn't find any good info really. I think the best I could find was a few whp difference between 91 and 94 octane. I have considered just using Costco 91 octane as it would be much cheaper and it is just as close/far to me as the 94 is. The more I thought about it the more 94 made sense in my case. It is solely a track car now so it would only end up being a slight difference in money each year and beyond the hp benefit it would also offer slightly more protection in the case of detonation.

[CrankyOldMan]

It would be great to see a nice BRZ, all of them around here are widebody with "hotboi" wheels and loud exhaust, but otherwise stock and pretty slow.

Funny, the one car I was consistently passing at the HPDE I did this year was an 86 with some crazy Anime girl vinyl on it. =D

I have to disagree with Cranky on this one and say go with the FT-86. If you plan to track it and autox it then the 86 will be a much more capable chassis. Power is available in the aftermarket once your driver skill gets you to that point. It was meant to be a drivers car from the beginning whereas the fiesta is just a fwd hatch with a turbo thrown in.

Just my $0.02 CAD

Fair enough, I'm just partial to the FWD hatchback segment at the moment. =)

[Lays]

Funny, the one car I was consistently passing at the HPDE I did this year was an 86 with some crazy Anime girl vinyl on it. =D



Fair enough, I'm just partial to the FWD hatchback segment at the moment. =)


I feel like going fast in an ST is much cheaper than an 86 though, especially since the starting price on an ST is much cheaper as well

[06YarisRS]

Any more news on your plans? If you don't pick up another Yaris, what are you doing with the performance parts you accumulated?

[ern-diz]

Any more news on your plans? If you don't pick up another Yaris, what are you doing with the performance parts you accumulated?

Your question is timely. He ended up picking up a Fiesta ST. Earlier this week, he sent me a message on Instagram saying someone hit him and ran on the highway. I believe he said the insurance co is going to total it out. He said there was another for sale in his area that he was thinking he'd pick up and swap over the parts he's already gotten.

[Desircustoms]

Well nevermind, this morning I totalled my car coming home from work.

I still have some 60 treadwear advans on my car from the last autocross event a few weeks ago, I was planning on putting my normal tires on next week because it's been like low 30 degrees outside.

Rear end came out when I was coming around a corner this morning around midnight, it was 29-31 degrees, I tried to counter steer and save it but no luck.

I went through a telephone pole, a huge fence, and smacked into a giant tree.

Great that you survived and are not injured!

So the rear hub bolts snapped off? Curious to know what failed exactly, I'm about to switch both rear bearings, after reading this I'll probably get some raybestos or Timken, saving a few bucks here is not worth it.

[06YarisRS]

Great that you survived and are not injured!

So the rear hub bolts snapped off? Curious to know what failed exactly, I'm about to switch both rear bearings, after reading this I'll probably get some raybestos or Timken, saving a few bucks here is not worth it.

I think he lost traction and spun out. The normally soft/grippy tire compound was too stiff due to the cold temps.