Project 2ZR Vios, part Deux!

[CrankyOldMan]

It's been almost a year since I acquired project 2ZR Vios from ArmstrongRacing and I figured it's time I start documenting the continuation of his work.

I took it out for two autocross events last year, one in a parking lot and one on a road course. All I can say is that it is phenomenally fun to drive! The grip and acceleration are way beyond what I expected and there is currently a lot more capability in the car than in the driver. The level of prep on it forces it into XP--Exhibition Prepared--which is the catch-all for cars that don't meet any of the standard classes.

While I've had a blast doing AutoX for the last 8-ish years, I want more seat time. I've done a HPDE with my 2ZR HB and that was incredibly eye-opening--as well as a massive gateway drug! The current plan is to prep the car for SCCA Club racing in Super Touring Lite (STL) since it is way beyond the prep levels allowed for H Production or B Spec where Jason@Sportscar has raced (and won a national title!) for a long time. I will also be doing track days with it and maybe even a 24 Hours of Lemons or two.

TMontague has been a big inspiration as well. He's been doing track days and is at a similar level of prep, but I don't think he has plans for competitive/series racing.

So yeah, I'll be making some progress over the coming year in anticipation of getting a competition license next spring and racing in at least one regional SCCA event. I'll probably make separate threads for the major build stuff like roll cage, aero, rules compliance, etc. but at least wanted to let the community at large know what happened with it and where it's going next.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Should be a lot of fun in STL, great class with a lot of participation.

[CrankyOldMan]

Should be a lot of fun in STL, great class with a lot of participation.

Looking at the field from Nationals last year, I have no illusions about being competitive at that level--both from a vehicle and a skill perspective. While the displacement-per-lb ratio is meant to be an equal starting point, some vehicles just have more potential. No way I can out-drive a K20 that redlines at 10k or a Miata with 2/3rd the frontal area, but I'll have a great time trying.

[06YarisRS]

Although I know nothing about racing, it's great to hear, Sam, that you're enjoying the car and it gets to live on; fulfill it's destiny. When you do get tired of it, please send me the trans and LSD. :laugh:

[Leegamer]

Nice! That is a sick car. Planning to do any vids of your racing?

[tmontague]

Looking forward to following this build!

You are correct Sam, I don't have plans to compete in the near future, I'm content competing with myself and heading to the track with a handful of buddies who happen to be darn fast in subcompacts. It fits my current budget and family situation better and I will avoid burnout this way.

Down the road I'd love to get onto time attack at the grassroots level. This summer I will be taking a year off from the track and just building up my car. All the glass is removed so I need to do lexan as well as purchase the MWR header and some new brake pads. Lots to keep me busy.

[thebarber]

subscribed!

[ern-diz]

Nice! Tom said he sold it to an enthusiast, but didn't say specifically who. Sneaky, sneaky. Def following along...

[CrankyOldMan]

Although I know nothing about racing, it's great to hear, Sam, that you're enjoying the car and it gets to live on; fulfill it's destiny. When you do get tired of it, please send me the trans and LSD. :laugh:
Yeah, I knew that there were only a handful of people who would actually do right by the car and I was in a position to take it on, so I did.
Nice! That is a sick car. Planning to do any vids of your racing?
Yes, probably in-car footage with track/telemetry overlays. Nothing too exciting.
Looking forward to following this build!

You are correct Sam, I don't have plans to compete in the near future, I'm content competing with myself and heading to the track with a handful of buddies who happen to be darn fast in subcompacts. It fits my current budget and family situation better and I will avoid burnout this way.

Down the road I'd love to get onto time attack at the grassroots level. This summer I will be taking a year off from the track and just building up my car. All the glass is removed so I need to do lexan as well as purchase the MWR header and some new brake pads. Lots to keep me busy.
I realize that I'm not chasing a national championship with it, just looking to get out on the track and do something I've dreamed of since I was a teenager. I don't see burnout being an issue because I'm staying regional.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for the windshield--mine is cracked and needs to be replaced anyway.

[CrankyOldMan]

Well, I suppose I should finally start documenting what I'm doing with the car.

I've done a few AutoX events with it and it's the most ludicrous thing I've ever driven--tons of grip, quick off the line, very responsive to my ham-fisted driving style. The plan is still to build it for SCCA Club Racing in STL but that may take another year or two before the car and I are ready. Lots of financial and logistical hurdles between here and there so I have to be patient and realistic with my expectations.

In the meantime, I will be doing some incremental upgrades to get it ready for track day events. I'll post them here as I chip away at them.

[tmontague]

Awesome, I'm looking forward to what you end up doing

[06YarisRS]

Awesome, I'm looking forward to what you end up doing

^+1

[CrankyOldMan]

I'm putting together an online document to manage all the wires in the car and determine what can be removed for different levels of prep. Not sure if I'll make it public but I'd be happy to share by invite for anyone doing a similar build. I'm pulling the data from the OEM wiring diagrams, available through Toyota's TechInfo service.

Modifying the wire harnesses isn't hard, as long as you know what wires are what. The connectors are easy enough to de-pin and can potentially be re-used if you're gentle. The wire harness itself is just black electrical tape and split wire loom. I prefer to unwrap the tape instead of cutting to reduce the risk of nicking a wire. The anchors can be reused if you carefully remove them. A small screwdriver or 10mm socket on the back side is usually enough to release the catch pawls. Some can't be accessed from the back side (i.e. front ABS wheel sensors) and will be damaged/destroyed in the process.

Aftermarket zip-tie style push-in clips are available (search for Toyota 82711-12200). Toyota uses slots instead of round holes for their connectors to prevent rotating. You may be able to get away with circular "christmas tree" push-in fasteners if you can't source that part number.

On to the work!

Because I don't intend to keep it street legal, there's lots of stuff that can be removed/simplified. Headlights and turn signals are first on the chopping block!

The headlights are connected to wire harness B. It runs from the engine bay fuse block, to the driver's headlight, across the front bumper beam, to the passenger headlight. The sedan doesn't have the fender side markers that the hatchback does, so there's a few less wires. The horn, ambient temperature sensor and fog lamps (if equipped) are on this harness as well. I'm not keeping any of these so the whole harness can go!

I will back-trace all of the wires on the other side of the connectors in the fuse block and remove those once I tackle the fuse block and wire harnesses A and E.

The engine and its components are almost entirely covered by wire harness C. The existing harness is from a Corolla, which has the ECM next to the engine bay fuse block. As such, the ECM had to be relocated to allow the harness to reach it. I'm replacing it with a Scion xD (manual transmission) harness so that it will reach the ECM in the stock location. Almost everything on this harness is staying--the backup light switch, evap canister purge valve and air compressor switch will be deleted.

The xD Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor has a different power wire than the Yaris and requires a little tweak to connect it. One option is to use an add-a-fuse block and splice directly to the black wire on CA2 pin 9. I prefer to go a slightly more complicated route and populate the vacant pin 9 location on the socket and connect it to an unused micro fuse slot. There are one or two wires inside of the engine bay fuse block that can be salvaged for this purpose, so I try to harvest them whenever one comes up at the local self-serve yard. This has the advantage of requiring zero field splices if you have to replace the engine harness at the track and it uses all OEM connectors for improved reliability.

Pics to follow as I work through the process.

I'm considering doing an external blog so that I own the content outright and don't have to worry about a site outage/shutdown, similar to what ArmstrongRacing did with his builds.

[CrankyOldMan]

The AutoPower roll bar that came with the car didn't have a diagonal or a harness bar. The anchor points for the harnesses as-found put the shoulder straps at an unsafe angle for my height. A friend of mine is an adept welder and has his own equipment, so I hired him for a Saturday afternoon to do the fabricating.

I took lots of measurements, extracted it from the car--no small feat--and bolted it to a 4x4 so I could strap it to my little Hazard Fraught trailer.

Lots of trial fitting and double checking of measurements later, success!

The roll hoop is actually for a hatchback, not a sedan, so it's an "interference fit" with the roof--the HB is slightly taller inside.

More pictures to follow once I get it back in the car.

[ern-diz]

Awesome :thumbup:

[Jason@SportsCar]

The closer to the roof the better. Nice update to the bar. While many people are not fans of bolt in cages/bars, if done properly they are plenty safe. We have an old SSC Nissan Sentra SER Spec V that runs in T4 now, complete bolt in cage.

[CrankyOldMan]

It's only going to be used for AutoX and track days, going to have a full welded cage done up for STL.

I think the roof is actually dented from the install. Hopefully that doesn't cause issues with tech inspection.

[CrankyOldMan]

Wow, this one is a huge undertaking! Dozens of hours scouring the wiring diagrams to organize all the connections by connector instead of by function/wire, physically dismantling a unit, reverse engineering the connections to the internal relays, flexing my mad Paint skillz, the works!

Under the dash on the driver's side, the wire harnesses from the interior and the main engine harness all come together in a giant rats nest of wires, connectors, zip ties and sorrow. Getting it out requires removing the dashboard--which requires removing the a-pillars, the radio, the instrument cluster, the climate control, the steering wheel, the passenger airbag, etc. etc. Very few people will have a reason to remove theirs, so you're better off just leaving it unless you're completely mad. Or dumb. Or me.

It's an impressive little package! There are multiple layers of stamped metal circuits, wires, insulation displacing connectors (IDCs) and a circuit board. All of the connectors are molded into the case. I tried to channel my inner Big Clive whilst performing the autopsy but ended up permanently damaging it. Pursuit of knowledge in the name of science, right?

The heater (HTR), ignition #1 (IG1) and turn signal/hazard light (FLASHER) relays are on the outside of the junction block. All of the connections to those parts are networked inside the block. There's also a bank of low-profile mini fuses on the bottom and a few large ones on the back--power windows (POWER) and defroster (DEF). This is also where the Main Body ECU lives.

The Main Body ECU is responsible for managing just that, the body wiring and electronics. It's mostly responsible for the locks (ACT+/ACT-) but also controls power to the fuel pump (C/OPN), defroster (DEF), power windows (PWR) and tail lamps (T-LP). It's the thing that lets you roll up the windows after you shut off the ignition, but only until you open the doors. Neat! The door locks are driven by small DC motors--not solenoids--so it can be managed with small relays instead of big chonkers.

If you intend to keep your car street-legal--which both TMontague and ArmstrongRacing did--then you need to keep this in. It weighs at least 5 lbs, but there's easier ways to take 5 lbs off your sprung mass. ;) If you're making this a trailer-only, dedicated track vehicle, then it should be possible to run without it. The fuel pump will have to be powered by a relay or switch and the tail lights/brakes will have to be wired up independently. Pretty much everything else that would connect to it already has been or will very shortly be removed.

[remcafee]

i am fascinated the amount of effort youre going through to save 5 pounds, every bit helps for sure.

[tmontague]

Wow, I'm impressed and really appreciative if all your work looking into this.

It surprised me at how much weight you can lose when you end up removing a few piles of wire. It also makes things much simpler and straightforward today kse down the road.

In my sub 2000lb car a small amount of weight removed makes a big difference in the way the car handles corners and fast directional changes.

Do you know if the abs is run by this under dash module?

To allow my car to drive to and from the track 20 minutes away I need to keep my head and tail lights and I also prefer to keep my abs for now.

[CrankyOldMan]

i am fascinated the amount of effort youre going through to save 5 pounds, every bit helps for sure.

The irony is that I'm probably going to have to add ballast to make minimum competition weight. For the class I'm building it for, 1.8L engines are about 2400 lbs. Granted, it means I can put it where it needs to go to help with corner balance and front/rear distribution, so it's not a total loss.

I'm an engineer so this is kind of what I do. My brain needs challenges like this otherwise it gets bored and starts inventing problems to solve. =)

[CrankyOldMan]

Wow, I'm impressed and really appreciative if all your work looking into this.
It's my obsessive-impulsive disorder. =D

Do you know if the abs is run by this under dash module?

As far as I know it's all controlled by the ABS actuator in the engine bay.

[remcafee]

yes, the abs actuator is the ecu as well for abs, very neat system, keeps it packaged nicely and responds to brake upgrades very well as it has electronic brake force distribution for each wheel

[Neinris]

OMG! I had another thread confused with this one! :redface:

[thebarber]

lawd!

[CrankyOldMan]

Finally got off my arse and installed the roll hoop. With the seat slid all the way back, the bar is only 4-5 inches away and is just the right height for horizontal/upward angle of the shoulder straps.

Next challenge for safety gear is the mounting points for lap and anti-sub belts. The outboard OEM belt attachment point is too close to the seat to allow the lap belt to sit at ~45° and the inboard belt point was part of the seat itself. Looks like I need to put the mounting points into the floor. I'm looking at eye bolts with clips vs bolts with plates and haven't found a clear answer of which is "right". The SCCA rules only specify hardened (minimum grade 5/metric 8.8) fasteners, attaching directly to the roll cage, or using the harness manufacturer's hardware. Lots of conflicting opinions out there about how to prevent pull-through from insufficient reinforcement of bolts through the floor, bending moment loads on eye bolts vs shear loads on plates. Seems like there's too many ways to do it and not enough clear direction from the sanctioning bodies. Maybe there's just too many variables (and too much liability) for any organization to make a definitive statement?

[tmontague]

Love it, hoping to one day fabricate something similar. I'd like to attempt a DIY but it isn't a small undertaking.

[CrankyOldMan]

Thanks, I definitely don't have the tools or skills to do the welding fab myself. Fortunately I have a friend with the gear, time and reasonable prices. He's also interested in driving it so he has a vested interest in doing it right. =)

[Jason@SportsCar]

I have always used the stock outer mount. On the inside both the square plate and round washer kits will work, it just comes down to which fits in the place you are drilling.

[CrankyOldMan]

I have always used the stock outer mount. On the inside both the square plate and round washer kits will work, it just comes down to which fits in the place you are drilling.

I moved the seat forward until my extended arms met the top of the wheel at the wrists (someone suggested that for a more comfortable arm position) and it looks like I can probably use the outer mount point from that far forward. Does the bracket need to be free to pivot? The OEM hardware is too large above the shoulder to fit into the opening and I can't find a shoulder bolt that's 7/16-20 thread with a 0.500 shoulder. An eye bolt and clip would allow it to move freely at the expense of a longer bending moment. Hmm...

I've read that the belt should ideally be mounted equally on both sides of the seat, so that puts the inboard mounting point right about where the e-brake cables come through the floor pan (the white rod in the picture from the center). There's probably just barely enough room on the "tunnel" for a backing plate but it would have to be welded to give me confidence in its structural integrity. Otherwise I can use the floor pan next to it, assuming there are no reinforcements or other obstructions directly below.

[CrankyOldMan]

Remember that 5 lbs of weight that I mentioned losing elsewhere? I found a good place to get a few of those. Since this is going to be track-only, there's zero reason for headlights. I already removed the headlight wire harness and figured I could add a little bit of lightness by gutting the headlight bodies. An oscillating tool and a file took care of most of it. Plastic razor blades took off the vinyl letters.

My first plan was to just paint them black and call it a day. Started with a can of Krylon Fusion since it works on plastic. There's some kind of film on the lenses. Not sure if that's from the factory or not but it's discolored at the top, possibly from heat/being under a tarp. No problems with adhesion. The orange peel was pretty awful and a grey Scotchbrite pad didn't do much for it.

I grabbed a can of Duplicolor Perfect Match (Black Sand) to see how well it works. Goes on OK, had a lot of clouding and splotches. Might have been my technique, might have been the humidity in the open garage. For science, I decided to try wet sanding. Started with 1000 grit, then 1500, finished with 2000. Still pretty bad orange peel, so I went back to 1000 for a little more deliberate scrubbing. It looked great wet, so I didn't go back up to 2000. Got a can of clear acrylic lacquer and gave it the beans. Turned out pretty "meh" if I say so myself. The pictures don't do justice to just how amateur my rattle can skills are. ;) I was going to worry about it but then remembered that these will be eating a LOT of bugs, grit, tire boogers and exhaust fumes so they don't have to be showroom quality. Done.

[Leegamer]

Oh man, that is so sick.

[tmontague]

That looks great, well done Sam.

A true track car looks great from far but is far from great. It isn't supposed to be pretty, just fast.

Have you ever though about cutting a vent in the bumper below the left headlight for a direct fresh air flow for the intake? I did that on mine a while back and it seems to keep the intake air temps within reason in the middle of summer.

[CrankyOldMan]

Oh man, that is so sick.
Thanks, it's an interesting look for sure.
That looks great, well done Sam.

A true track car looks great from far but is far from great. It isn't supposed to be pretty, just fast.

Have you ever though about cutting a vent in the bumper below the left headlight for a direct fresh air flow for the intake? I did that on mine a while back and it seems to keep the intake air temps within reason in the middle of summer.
It's definitely not pretty up close. I've learned that lesson at the track when I do flags and communication for the SCCA and VSCDA--looks pretty on the track, looks sketchy in the pits. =)

There's specific rules about where you can put openings and where you can direct air. In some classes you can remove a (round) headlight and directly install an intake duct. Older cars benefit more from that because they had standardized headlights. I can use fog light openings for brake ducts but that's about it.

[CrankyOldMan]

One of the goals with the wiring reduction is to simplify as much of the harness as possible. I'm tracking down every wire, module, connector and device to see what's necessary to make the engine run and comply with the class rules.

The ignition switch is first on the chopping block. I'm required to remove/disable the steering wheel lock and I have zero need for a key, so there's not much point in keeping the lock tumbler. I'll do a separate post about the steering column that includes the quick release hub and the racing wheel.

The ignition switch is essentially a double-pole triple-throw (DP3T) configuration but is actually a rotary switch with the ability to connect multiple outputs on a single armature. That means two inputs, each with three outputs. Each key position has unique connections for each armature: OFF is no connection on either; ACC is armature 1 (AM1) to Accessory Power (ACC) only; ON is AM1 to ignition 1 (IG1) and ACC, armature 2 (AM2) to Ignition 2 (IG2); START is AM1 to IG1, AM2 to IG2 and Start 2 (ST2). It's all shown in the attached PDF.

When you turn the key to ACC, you get power to the shift lock ECU, radio, power mirrors, cigarette lighter/outlet and a signal to the main body ECU so you can use power windows. When you turn it to ON, ACC is still connected and IG1 and IG2 circuits get power. That's pretty much everything in the car. To maximize power to the starter, anything on the ACC power circuit doesn't get power when you turn the key to START. That's why your radio goes off when you crank the engine.

Turning the key to START is fairly straightforward: send a signal to the ECU (STSW) and initiate closing the contact on the ST Relay, which fires the starter solenoid and closes the motor contacts in the starter. For M/T, the clutch must be fully depressed to keep the relay coil energized; for A/T, the transmission must be in Park or Neutral. I'm not 100% on how the ECU keeps the coil energized for the "key once and it cranks until it starts or times out" but it has a separate output (STAR) that connects to the coil and an input on the other side of the clutch or Park/Neutral switch to know if those contacts are closed or not.

The IG1 and IG2 outputs give power to pretty much everything else in the car that isn't hooked directly to the battery, either directly or through a relay. Lots of spaghetti to untangle on those two circuits but I'm making progress. Fortunately, a lot of those wires are contained in the main engine harness so there's not much to be done with that one. The big mess will be all the stuff that goes back into the cabin.

I don't/won't have any of the things on the ACC circuit in the car, so that means one whole position on the switch can be eliminated! The IG1 and IG2 positions can be done with a double-pole, single-throw switch (DPST) and the START switch can be a momentary toggle or pushbutton. How's that for race car? =)

[CrankyOldMan]

I did this one a while back, just now getting around to documenting it.

The car came with a Sparco wheel and hub adapter. The wheel is a Sparco R375, I think. It's pretty nice. It also had the basic Sparco hub adapter but I wanted a quick release to make it easier to get in/out when the cage goes in. I went with the NRG 2.0 SFI-rated hub (SRK-200-1BK) and got a short hub adapter (SRK-R120H) to reduce the stick-out distance of the wheel. I may go back to the Sparco hub to get a better combination of arm and leg position but for now it's got the short hub in it.

The NRG SFI-rated quick release doesn't have the bits for a horn button and doesn't have the release button that their standard models do. It's genuinely one-handed operation, which is nice in the event of an urgent exit.

The SCCA rules require that the steering wheel lock is removed/disabled to prevent it accidentally engaging. It's integrated into the key switch mechanism so that needs to be disconnected first. The bolts that hold it on are designed to shear off the head when installed as a security measure. The easiest way to get them out is with a cutoff wheel and a flat head screwdriver. In my case, it's not going back on so I wasn't careful about damaging the raised part of the clamp/bracket.

The lock has a spring loaded "tang" that engages the steering column at certain points. The lighting wasn't great so you can't really see where it goes, but somewhere in that hole is a slot that it engages. It could theoretically be removed from the key switch assembly but this is a spare column that I dissected and I don't have the keys for it (you need to unlock the tumbler to remove it from the casing). When I do this on the one still in the car I will try and remember to document that process.

[CrankyOldMan]

This was much simpler than I thought it would be. It did involve dropping the fuel tank to get the first hose out and the (unnecessary) removal of the filler neck. No pictures, it's just undoing a few bolts and hose clamps. The hard line that goes to the purge valve in the engine bay had to be cut in order to get it out from the firewall area because it was tangled up with the brake and fuel lines.

To close off the hose barbs, I got some 3/4" and 9mm silicone caps from McMaster. They came in packs of 5 and 10 respectively so I've got extras. Silicone should be immune to deterioration from the gas vapors and won't dry rot--looking at you, rubber. I've ordered some pinch clamps for the tank vent since it's going to be relatively inaccessible and I don't want to worry about it coming loose.

[CrankyOldMan]

Probably overkill and pointless but figured I'd address it since I (also needlessly) removed the rear brace to drop the fuel tank. The bolts and washers that were installed on it looked like they could use an upgrade. The bolts were 8.8 (~grade 5 for us Imperial types) but the washers were too thin. The openings at the bottom of the "tubes" on the brace are huge. Not sure what kind of manufacturing tolerances they're working with but they're definitely oversized, hence the deformed washers with a non-flanged bolt.

Went to the local Ace hardware and grabbed a few grade 10.9 M8-1.25 x 20 flanged bolts and some hardened M8 oversize washers. They fit fine but the washers are still a little thin and the bolt heads are 13mm. Savages and their 13mm wrenches, I tell you what.

So I went to McMaster and looked up some more skookum washers and found that their flanged 10.9 bolts were 12mm heads. Great success! The hardware store washers were ~2mm thick (.080"), the bigger ones are about 2.8mm (.110). It was a snug fit and I had to loosen both sides to get all four bolts in. They still protrude a bit into the fender well, so I may grab some 16mm bolts with my next McMaster order.

I won't know if there's a difference in washer strength until I do some field testing, hopefully they will fare better.

[Neinris]

It's funny that you got rid of your evap canister, when I was struggling months ago looking for a replacement to get rid of a ghost fault that's not even throwing me a CEL. :laugh:

I don't think the strength of the washers matters for the rear arm brace, those things weighs what like a pound? It's the strength of the bolts that you need to worry about more, if they're able to withstand any of the flexing.

If you're trying to reduce weight, why not ditch the washers as well. :biggrin:

[CrankyOldMan]

I stumbled on an "inertia activated fuel pump shut-off switch" today and thought it might be worth investigating how the Yaris deals with cutting power to the fuel pump in the event of a collision. Some OEMs use a manual-reset mechanical switch to interrupt power to either the pump (low current applications) or the pump relay coil (high current applications).

After some very confusing and misleading searches, it turns out that Toyota used to use the Vehicle Air Flow (VAF)--precursor to the MAF--sensor or the ECM to control the fuel "circuit opening relay", as shown in the attached illustration. The Yaris has two relays between the ignition switch and the fuel pump: IG2, which is energized by the ECM and C/OPN, which is energized when the key switch is in the ON position. I didn't understand what the abbreviation "C/OPN" was until just now--it's Circuit OPeN. Aha!

The funny thing about this is that the Yaris ECM doesn't control either of these relays--it only controls the EFI Relay coil. The EFI Relay does provide power to the C/OPN contacts so the ECM can effectively turn off the pump by de-energizing the EFI relay. It's possible that the airbag ECU can send a signal to the ECM and tell it that a collision has occurred but it would have to be via CAN bus. All of the airbag components have been removed so even if it comes from there, I don't have a way to generate that anymore.

"So, Cranky," you ask, "what does this mean for your efforts to simplify the wiring?" Well, I'm glad you asked! I want to remove the interior Junction/Relay Block because it's largely useless at this point. Its primary purpose is to manage the in-cabin convenience items, almost all of which have been deleted. There are two relays on/inside the block that are still used though: IG1 and C/OPN. I think that replacing the C/OPN relay will be pretty simple, I just need to measure the current draw to size the relay. IG1 is much larger but some of the things it supported are no longer installed. Probably going to take a bit of tinkering and measuring to sort that one out.

The attached schematic shows just the fuel pump and its related components. Took a bit of head-scratching to sort out how it's all connected and hypothesize how it works. Steps 4-8 will have to be determined empirically, I suppose.

Adding an inertia switch to the circuit has pros and cons though: increased safety in the event of a crash but increased complexity of the circuit and another potential point of failure. Hmm...

[CrankyOldMan]

After lots of frustration and mangled connectors/pins, I finally found some real info on how to remove the smallest pins! There's an OEM wire harness repair document (https://www.toyota-tech.eu/wire_harness_rm/RM06H0E.pdf) that seems to have all the info I was looking for. It lists the type, size and quantity of terminals for each connector suffix and repair wire part numbers too. I.e. Yaris connector D6 "Windshield Wiper SW Assembly" is part number 90980-12359; suffix 12359 has 4 ea. 0.64 II and 6 ea. 2.3 II female terminals; repair wires are parts 24290 and 12340 respectively.

Props to the author of this article (https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/381088/car/2292029/8697565/parts.aspx) for buying the OEM tools and writing up a review!

Important details:
* Most terminals can be removed with the 1mm-wide tool described in the Yaris EWD. I got a Molex 0638138600 from DigiKey for removing pins from an OBD-II port, seems to work just fine on 90% of the pins I've encountered. At ~$25 it was a steal for an OEM tool.

* Pins used to be sized by decimal inches, now they're metric. There are two different types of some terminals, indicated by "II" after the size. I.e. 0.025 inch pins are now 0.64; there are type 0.64 and 0.64 II, which use different removal tools.

Notes on the 0.64mm terminals:
* 0.64 terminals are most likely TE/AMP/TYCO sourced and are used in sealed connectors like the ECM, evap canister, occupant classification ECU, etc. Some of them may be available through online electronics components distributors like DigiKey, Mouser, Farnell, etc.

* The Toyota OEM parts for removing 0.64 terminals are really expensive:
- 09991-00500 (female terminal) is ~$115
- 09991-00510 (male terminal) is ~$160

* The connector OEM (TE Connectivity) tools are more reasonable but still expensive:
- 1276565-1 looks like 09991-00500, ~$70
- 1579007-8 looks like 09991-00510, ~$90 ** Don't get 1-1579007-8, that's for round terminals in a different connector!**
- 4-1579008-5 also looks like -00510, ~$90

Notes on the 0.64 II terminals:
* 0.64 II terminals are probably Sumitomo sourced and are used in non-sealed connectors. Sumitomo doesn't have any retail/customer-facing options so you're probably not going to get them direct. Take a look around for race car wire harness parts suppliers and see if you can match pictures of what you need.

* The OEM part for removing 0.64 II terminals is also fairly expensive for what it is--a piece of flat spring steel with relatively tight tolerances.
- 09992-01030 ~$55

* Edit: Great picture of a hybrid 0.64 + 2.3 connector on atomic_hoji's 2ZR swap thread (https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=805990&postcount=14)!