2007 brake bleed question

[AndyW]

Hello. I have a 2007 hatchback 5-spd and want to flush and bleed the brakes and clutch.

I sucked the old fluid from the reservoir and replaced with clean, then went to the rear to start bleeding the brakes. Despite my best efforts I could not budge the bleeder on either side (haven't tried the fronts or clutch). It started to get dark so I had to put the wheels back on and put away my tools (apartment parking lots suck!).

The bleeder was a bit rusty but not horrible. I soaked both sides several times with a WD-40 but that hasn't helped. I will note that I have a cheap 12-pt wrench set which probably isn't helping me.

So, is 8mm the correct size wrench for the rear drum brake bleeders? It almost feels like I need a 7.5mm, if there were such a thing. It feels like the bleeder is starting to turn but I think that's just the 8mm wrench starting to slip and I don't want to round the bleeder off and really cause a problem. I suspect that the edges of the bleeder are a bit rounded off with age and rust.

Is there some trick, like the bleeders turn in the opposite direction from normal?

I am assuming that the old/dirty fluid in the lines doesn't really exchange much with the fresh I just put in the reservoir, so without a proper flush/bleed I haven't really accomplished anything.

Any other tips or ideas?
Thanks.

[SRV2NV]

Unfortunately no, fresh fluid isn't going to get into the lines without flushing them.

I'm not sure if 8mm is the correct size, but there should be no trick to it, just right to tight and left to loose. I usually just put my closed end over the bleeder and while holding the wrench on the nut portion with my left, I give the other end of the wrench a couple of controlled but heavy hits with my closed fist and it pops right open.

I'd suggest using a flare nut wrench and attempting to crack them open with that to avoid rounding off the bleeder. You can also try a 6 point socket, but be careful while turning the wrench so the force doesn't twist and possibly braking the bleeder off.

Also, WD40 isn't a penetrating oil so its not going to do you any good. Look for Kroil, Seafoam Deep Creep or Liquid Wrench and try one of those instead.

[WeeYari]

8mm is the correct size. See if you can get a 5/16" wrench in it since that equates to 7.9mm.
And, as said above WD40 is not a penetrating oil and will never succeed in freeing up seized nuts and bolts. Get a proper product and over a period of a couple days, periodically apply before attempting to loosen the bleeder.

[komichal]

My brake bleeders are also rusty AF. Brake fluid tester still shows good condition of the fluid, however I will wait till summer and will ask the local dealer to do the change for me. I suppose if I do that every year from that time onwards I will not need to deal with rusted bleeders.

[AndyW]

Thanks to all who have replied.
Just a quick update. I was able to turn the bleeder nut with an 8mm (6 pt) deep socket, but then realized that's not a great solution as I can't properly open/close the bleeder during the bleeding process without potentially introducing air into the system.

After loosening the nut I again tried my 8mm and also 5/16in closed end wrenches but both still slip. Like I said before, 12pt wrenches are not good in this situation, at least when the bleeder nuts are a bit rounded off already.

I'll pick up some proper flare nut wrenches and give it another try in a few days. I seem to have to buy a new tool every time I try a new job, but eventually I will have everything I need I suppose.

[ex-x-fire]

Don't worry about sucking air into the system. Leave the cap off and gravity bleed it. Watch the level during this process.

[IndestructibleYaris]

6pt SOCKET. If you break it off weld a nut onto it and it'll come right out