Oil Filter Concerns

[ghowey]

Ever since I purchased by 2010 Sedan I have used the Toyota 90915-YZZF2 filter. Used the last filter out of my existing case, ordered another case from the vendor, received part number 90915-YZZN1. Changed oil as normal without realizing the different filter, was greeted with a brief engine rattle on starting up which had never happened prior. Then I checked and realized this was different item. My vendor indicated the YZZF2 has been superseded by the YZZN1. Can someone confirm this is indeed the case?

Thanks!

[remcafee]

yes its a replacement part number as the facility has changed where the oil filters are made, nothing to worry about my man, im a master technician at the dealership

[ghowey]

Good Deal, Thanks!

[myfirstyota]

For extra piece of mind, prime the filter before install. It should minimize tick on startup.

[IndestructibleYaris]

Fram Ph4386 or Ph4967
Supertech st4386 or st4967
There isn't a larger filter for the same price as stock garbo filter, change my mind

[mitch9521]

Fram Ph4386 or Ph4967
Supertech st4386 or st4967
There isn't a larger filter for the same price as stock garbo filter, change my mind

Fram is trash, I wouldn't put that garbage on a $500 plow truck.

[IndestructibleYaris]

Fram is trash, I wouldn't put that garbage on a $500 plow truck.

I'm gonna need to see some proof for those claims. There's plenty of videos showing the cardstock end caps being the only difference, and who cares if the paper filter media is held in with cardstock?. If anything will fail on any oil filter, it's the filter media. It's much weaker than the end cap, and if the filter media fails, it sends contaminated oil into the engine. The filter media on fram filters shows no shortcomings to the expensive brands.

I've never heard or seen someone show a catastrophic failure of an oil filter. Just monkeys tightening them with wrenches until the gasket splits

The cheaper the filter is made, the better. I can't afford to spend my time on trying to stab through a beefy oil filter that can't include the non slip coating. Fram spins off toolless. That's invaluable to me

I get confused when people have such a strong stance on filters but the reasoning is piss poor. If you have any reason to hate fram, please chime in. I have no brand loyalty whatsoever and will switch to your filter brand if the value is there

[Turbiini]

90915-yzzj3 filter also fits yaris and flows better.

[IndestructibleYaris]

90915-yzzj3 filter also fits yaris and flows better.

What resources are you using to find the flow rate? I can't find any information on the oem filters

[Turbiini]

more same type filtermaterial

[mitch9521]

I'm gonna need to see some proof for those claims. There's plenty of videos showing the cardstock end caps being the only difference, and who cares if the paper filter media is held in with cardstock?. If anything will fail on any oil filter, it's the filter media. It's much weaker than the end cap, and if the filter media fails, it sends contaminated oil into the engine. The filter media on fram filters shows no shortcomings to the expensive brands.

I've never heard or seen someone show a catastrophic failure of an oil filter. Just monkeys tightening them with wrenches until the gasket splits

The cheaper the filter is made, the better. I can't afford to spend my time on trying to stab through a beefy oil filter that can't include the non slip coating. Fram spins off toolless. That's invaluable to me

I get confused when people have such a strong stance on filters but the reasoning is piss poor. If you have any reason to hate fram, please chime in. I have no brand loyalty whatsoever and will switch to your filter brand if the value is there

Why not invest in an adjustable oil filter wrench if you're always that strapped for time then? They're like 15 bucks on amazon and are a lifesaver, no more stabby stab.

[bronsin]

Fram is trash, I wouldn't put that garbage on a $500 plow truck.

I’ve used that filter more than half the time on my wife’s 2005 Camry and it’s got 195,000 miles on it.

:thumbsup:

[mitch9521]

I’ve used that filter more than half the time on my wife’s 2005 Camry and it’s got 195,000 miles on it.

:thumbsup:

Good for you. I'll stick with OEM approved filters.

[IndestructibleYaris]

Why not invest in an adjustable oil filter wrench if you're always that strapped for time then? They're like 15 bucks on amazon and are a lifesaver, no more stabby stab.

I have about 3 different types of oil filter wrenches. Sometimes these monkeys torque an oil filter to 40lb ft of torque, and once there's a drop of oil or dirt on the canister, nothing will grab like a screwdriver poked the whole way through. It's also much easier to use a screwdriver if you can get over the mess. I hate trying to use a tool that in my opinion doesn't save time and almost always leads to frustration

I think the first oil change, i got it off with channel locks. After that was a breeze because i make them hand snug

[remcafee]

i have proof in the form of experience, cars coming in the dealership that have been maintained with aftermarket parts compared to oem just have more issues, plain and simple, a good example is i had a tacoma with a fram filter and they came in with drivability and intermittent misfires concern, oh hey, take a wild guess, the camshaft gear strainer was clogged full of debris that the oil filter was clearly ignoring, pulled apart that oil filter and the actual filter wasnt even retaining its round structure, it was "folded" so to say inside the filter housing, total garbage parts that could quite literally ruin your engine.

[mitch9521]

i have proof in the form of experience, cars coming in the dealership that have been maintained with aftermarket parts compared to oem just have more issues, plain and simple, a good example is i had a tacoma with a fram filter and they came in with drivability and intermittent misfires concern, oh hey, take a wild guess, the camshaft gear strainer was clogged full of debris that the oil filter was clearly ignoring, pulled apart that oil filter and the actual filter wasnt even retaining its round structure, it was "folded" so to say inside the filter housing, total garbage parts that could quite literally ruin your engine.

This is why OEM or quality aftermarket filters only.

I usually run Bosch filters or Wix if I can't get my hands on an OEM Denso filter for whatever reason.

[Calrenman]

Just lurking on this thread. I have seen some Cut away oil filter videos and the inconsistency of fram shocked me, Pleating, glue and rust problems... yipes.
I use the wix, 51393XP full synthetic filter. It is larger than "stock size" with more filter surface and ads a bit of volume to the oil supply (~10-15%). $11.00 filter for a $4.000.00 engine. I will play those odds. I do use the supertech 10,000 oil from wallyworld with no problems. SAE is SAE! One the light goes on at 5,000 the oil gets changed!
I will not mess with filters or oil because cam phasers/ adjustable cams need clean oil!

[mitch9521]

Just lurking on this thread. I have seen some Cut away oil filter videos and the inconsistency of fram shocked me, Pleating, glue and rust problems... yipes.
I use the wix, 51393XP full synthetic filter. It is larger than "stock size" with more filter surface and ads a bit of volume to the oil supply (~10-15%). $11.00 filter for a $4.000.00 engine. I will play those odds. I do use the supertech 10,000 oil from wallyworld with no problems. SAE is SAE! One the light goes on at 5,000 the oil gets changed!
I will not mess with filters or oil because cam phasers/ adjustable cams need clean oil!

I exclusively run Mobil 1 full synthetic(No dino crap) in my vehicles. Usually change the Yaris around 4-5k miles and my F150 around 3k cause it sits alot.

WIX is top notch, ive actually switched to their filters exclusively now.

[tigerpaw]

90915-yzzj3 filter also fits yaris and flows better.

How does it flow better,how would you even know?

[Calrenman]

I exclusively run Mobil 1 full synthetic(No dino crap) in my vehicles. Usually change the Yaris around 4-5k miles and my F150 around 3k cause it sits alot.

WIX is top notch, ive actually switched to their filters exclusively now.

I only use the Synthetic oil. That is the oil our engines were designed for. Dino very bad! Too much wax/ tar build up for the VVT

[mitch9521]

I only use the Synthetic oil. That is the oil our engines were designed for. Dino very bad! Too much wax/ tar build up for the VVT

As would any sane person. lol

[Neinris]

I use Mobil 1 full synthetic oil and Mobil 1 oil filter.
Has anyone tried using a slightly longer oil filter?
I looked underneath and it doesn't seem like it would hit the filter first if for any reason the vehicle were to bottoms out.
Would the 90915-YZZD3 fit the Yaris? It seems to be 1/4 of the size longer than the 90915-YZZF2.

[sh0rtlife]

theres a few benifits from a bigger filter "if" you can fit one..im not talking just longer, but overall larger, and the trick here is digging thru the books and finding one with the same thread pitch a gasket size

more oil capacity, more surface area for improved flow, a nice big can that helps cool the oil a little bit

[Compeer]

i have proof in the form of experience, cars coming in the dealership that have been maintained with aftermarket parts compared to oem just have more issues, plain and simple, a good example is i had a tacoma with a fram filter and they came in with drivability and intermittent misfires concern, oh hey, take a wild guess, the camshaft gear strainer was clogged full of debris that the oil filter was clearly ignoring, pulled apart that oil filter and the actual filter wasnt even retaining its round structure, it was "folded" so to say inside the filter housing, total garbage parts that could quite literally ruin your engine.

I did an apprenticeship in automotive parts and every year we cut open all the brands we could sources oil filters of the same part number.

As a result i will only install Ryco or Wix filters on my cars with a preference to Ryco. They always had by far the best quality filter spring and internal can design. Frams were ALWAYs the worst with them often being rusty inside as new...mmm rust particles on the filtered side of your filter flowing into your engine!

Wix and ryco were always pretty much on par. Everything else is rubbish as far as aftermarket filters go.

I watched a thing on air filters and wix and ryco won for air filters as well with the most particles removed, I'd say this is also true of their fuel filters.

[Calrenman]

Large oil filters for 2015 Yaris hatchback.

I have used both and prefer the Wix.

3/4 inlet (center) Threads unknown matched by sight and comparison.

Large oil filters K&N HP-2005/ Wix XP- 51393XP


I use Mobil 1 full synthetic oil and Mobil 1 oil filter.
Has anyone tried using a slightly longer oil filter?
I looked underneath and it doesn't seem like it would hit the filter first if for any reason the vehicle were to bottoms out.
Would the 90915-YZZD3 fit the Yaris? It seems to be 1/4 of the size longer than the 90915-YZZF2.

[Calrenman]

I have used these larger filters without incident!

Large oil filters K&N HP-2005/ Wix XP- 51393XP:headbang:

theres a few benifits from a bigger filter "if" you can fit one..im not talking just longer, but overall larger, and the trick here is digging thru the books and finding one with the same thread pitch a gasket size

more oil capacity, more surface area for improved flow, a nice big can that helps cool the oil a little bit

[bronsin]

I only use the Synthetic oil. That is the oil our engines were designed for. Dino very bad! Too much wax/ tar build up for the VVT

My wife’s 20 year old Camry just hit 200,000 miles and shows no signs of quitting. Never had synthetic oil, not a drop. Never had larger oil filters. Had frame oil filters maybe 25% of the time.

Wax and tar build up? The VVT works just fine. Thanks very much.
Just how many of these engines have you disassembled and inspected? Zip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah, I’ll wager!

You’ve been had my friend. You’re spending about twice as much on oil as you need to. You change the oil in your car because of contamination resulting from the combustion of fossil fuel. Whether the oil is synthetic or not, it’s still needs to be changed.

But if you were happy, that’s all that matters I guess.

[bronsin]

As would any sane person. lol

:bonk:

[sh0rtlife]

FWIW
the wix "xp" filters have more filter material in them with the design specificly to flow more oil thru, they are ment to only be ran with synth....spoke with a rep in great detail about them..its something like 1 extra pleat for every 2 in the filter...the idea is to add 1/3rd more surface area for filtering and allow more oil to flow thru them faster

[Calrenman]

Your motor your gamble. Good Luck.

Toyotas are not an engine I would take apart to play with.

My geo was in frame rebuild then top end rebuild. It still had faint cross hatching all the way around the cylinder when I put rings in it, in other words low wear. I will stick with the synthetics, that is my experience!

My wife’s 20 year old Camry just hit 200,000 miles and shows no signs of quitting. Never had synthetic oil, not a drop. Never had larger oil filters. Had frame oil filters maybe 25% of the time.

Wax and tar build up? The VVT works just fine. Thanks very much.
Just how many of these engines have you disassembled and inspected? Zip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah, I’ll wager!

You’ve been had my friend. You’re spending about twice as much on oil as you need to. You change the oil in your car because of contamination resulting from the combustion of fossil fuel. Whether the oil is synthetic or not, it’s still needs to be changed.

But if you were happy, that’s all that matters I guess.

[Calrenman]

I never spoke to a rep but I think it is stated on the box. It is cool that you were able to speak to a rep.

The filters I Noted are also close to an inch, inch and a half deeper than stock filters.

I have always run Larger filters (via cross referencing inlet since and OD Gasket size since my first 350 chevy. I would run the two quart filters and a deep sump oil pan on a short bed half ton Van. The van had some head work, headers, intake, carb and full MSD ignition. It ran like a scalded gorilla!

FWIW
the wix "xp" filters have more filter material in them with the design specificly to flow more oil thru, they are ment to only be ran with synth....spoke with a rep in great detail about them..its something like 1 extra pleat for every 2 in the filter...the idea is to add 1/3rd more surface area for filtering and allow more oil to flow thru them faster

[sh0rtlife]

I never spoke to a rep but I think it is stated on the box. It is cool that you were able to speak to a rep.

The filters I Noted are also close to an inch, inch and a half deeper than stock filters.

I have always run Larger filters (via cross referencing inlet since and OD Gasket size since my first 350 chevy. I would run the two quart filters and a deep sump oil pan on a short bed half ton Van. The van had some head work, headers, intake, carb and full MSD ignition. It ran like a scalded gorilla!

i did the same on my mopars, forgive my only remembering the fram numbers, but the ph43 and the ph8a are IDENTICAL bases, the 8 being almost 3x the size of the 43...mind you on my a-body barracudas the 8 only fit if i axed the 90deg OE adaptor, but on my trucks and van the 8 was no big deal..for referance the 8 is your standard for filter while the 43 isnt much bigger than our yaris filters

[sh0rtlife]

Your motor your gamble. Good Luck.

Toyotas are not an engine I would take apart to play with.

My geo was in frame rebuild then top end rebuild. It still had faint cross hatching all the way around the cylinder when I put rings in it, in other words low wear. I will stick with the synthetics, that is my experience!

ive been inside mine..cause toyota fucked up and failed to torque the timing chain guides down FROM THE FACTORY and the dealers all blamed the noise on other things till it was out of warrenty

fwiw cross hatching life comes down to 3 things run time/milage, heat consistancy and overall ring seal/wear

in other words..sloppy rings will never get rid of the hatching, low run time wont wear it either and an engine that never gets too hot or too cold will also never wear it out..ive taken apart 100k mile 70s v8s that still had faint hatching ive taken apart ones with 30k that were slick as a mirror...the oil used has NOTHING to do with cyl wear...oil only has a genuine effect on bearing surfaces..the cyl's are scraped clean every stroke..besides unless youve got an engine wiht oil sprayers little oil gets in there anyway

[Calrenman]

Before the valve burned my compression was high normal before the oil test to check the rings with little Slight raise after the ring test.

The motor in the Geo had 100 k on it. My V8s ised to smooth at certain place in the cylinder I think it was top and bottom center and outsid but I ran the piss out of those moters (350 chevy).
Toyota is not what they were in the 90 or early 2000s. Sorry you were burned.

ive been inside mine..cause toyota fucked up and failed to torque the timing chain guides down FROM THE FACTORY and the dealers all blamed the noise on other things till it was out of warrenty

fwiw cross hatching life comes down to 3 things run time/milage, heat consistancy and overall ring seal/wear

in other words..sloppy rings will never get rid of the hatching, low run time wont wear it either and an engine that never gets too hot or too cold will also never wear it out..ive taken apart 100k mile 70s v8s that still had faint hatching ive taken apart ones with 30k that were slick as a mirror...the oil used has NOTHING to do with cyl wear...oil only has a genuine effect on bearing surfaces..the cyl's are scraped clean every stroke..besides unless youve got an engine wiht oil sprayers little oil gets in there anyway

[sh0rtlife]

Before the valve burned my compression was high normal before the oil test to check the rings with little Slight raise after the ring test.

The motor in the Geo had 100 k on it. My V8s ised to smooth at certain place in the cylinder I think it was top and bottom center and outsid but I ran the piss out of those moters (350 chevy).
Toyota is not what they were in the 90 or early 2000s. Sorry you were burned.

funny enough, theres a post on the carnage in here, but after cleaning it out, swapping the vvt, chain and guides, its quieter than its EVER been and runs perfect...but im still getting shavings in the oil so i question its life span...sad its only got about 120k on it

[Calrenman]

That sucks!

I have no "shinies" when I inspect oil after a change. I hope it works out for you. Try changing the filter again, Maybe it is a brake in or defective filter. :iono:

funny enough, theres a post on the carnage in here, but after cleaning it out, swapping the vvt, chain and guides, its quieter than its EVER been and runs perfect...but im still getting shavings in the oil so i question its life span...sad its only got about 120k on it

[sh0rtlife]

That sucks!

I have no "shinies" when I inspect oil after a change. I hope it works out for you. Try changing the filter again, Maybe it is a brake in or defective filter. :iono:

you have to keep in mind im still flushing out the crap from toyota not locking the timing guides in place from new, which resulted in a destroyed vvt, 3 inches of timing guide that was both shaved off and broken, multiple grooves in the block and head...at this point im just buying time till i can gatehr everything for a 1.8 swap.....as i suspect alot of material got embedded in the bearings

"if" the engine goes another 100k ill be blown away, but theres no way it will go the 400k some guys get out of it...even if its only got 120k on it..the carnage from toyotas F-up will inevitably lead to a shorter life on the engine

[bronsin]

Run it till it dies! I have to believe it will last a long time anyway whatever happened to it.

[Calrenman]

I would be worried about the rings but if it is quiet and has good compression think if the silver flakes as aluminum lubricant! Its softer than the rings or the crank!:burnrubber: Burn that puppy to the ground!
There is a 1.8 that fits in our cars... neat!:w00t:

you have to keep in mind im still flushing out the crap from toyota not locking the timing guides in place from new, which resulted in a destroyed vvt, 3 inches of timing guide that was both shaved off and broken, multiple grooves in the block and head...at this point im just buying time till i can gatehr everything for a 1.8 swap.....as i suspect alot of material got embedded in the bearings

"if" the engine goes another 100k ill be blown away, but theres no way it will go the 400k some guys get out of it...even if its only got 120k on it..the carnage from toyotas F-up will inevitably lead to a shorter life on the engine

[sh0rtlife]

my primary concern is genuinly the bearing surfaces both getting washed with keroseen, disel, engine flush in an attempt to clear as much "flake" out of the engine as i could, i litteraly ran about 8 gallons thru it in the course of a day trying to get it clean....it stopped showing signs so i buttoned it up

1500mile oilchange resulted in seeing more.....so i know 2 things..flakes pushed past the filter for a long long long time(read years) so how much material has been embedded in the bearing surfaces.......which means when it goes it will likely toss a rod or a bearing or both..

so yeah ive started my 1.8 swap gathering..ive got the xd harness, motormounts and some other bits...just keeping an eye out for a low mile cheep 1.8

[Calrenman]

XD, Scion? If I tried that here in the peoples republic I would be in solitary for some reason or other.

my primary concern is genuinly the bearing surfaces both getting washed with keroseen, disel, engine flush in an attempt to clear as much "flake" out of the engine as i could, i litteraly ran about 8 gallons thru it in the course of a day trying to get it clean....it stopped showing signs so i buttoned it up

1500mile oilchange resulted in seeing more.....so i know 2 things..flakes pushed past the filter for a long long long time(read years) so how much material has been embedded in the bearing surfaces.......which means when it goes it will likely toss a rod or a bearing or both..

so yeah ive started my 1.8 swap gathering..ive got the xd harness, motormounts and some other bits...just keeping an eye out for a low mile cheep 1.8