NCP90 Rear Drum to Disc swap

[Compeer]

Hey guys I own a NZ new 2007 trd yaris NCP90, It's a 1.5 vvti 1nzfe 5speed manual with full trd trim and only 133,000km so shes in great shape.. I have previously changed the speedo cluster to the Vitz RS jdm cluster (was not fun) and put 15x7" old school deep dish Roh wheels and some BF goodrich low pro tires to replace the 2000's 17" chrome gross wheels it had on it. I also spent a day scrapping the trd lightening sticker kit off it as it was crazy cracked, but may get it restored as it was a $750 trd option.

https://i.gyazo.com/4fd70d454c489146df3ff98f25a66fb4.jpg
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Ok so it has all the same or even better trd versions of parts like the vitz RS BAR the rear drums. The vitz rs has the rear disc brakes and thats where this crashed vitz RS comes in as the donor.

https://gyazo.com/d32e373b134ee196f11a5f50c4d46f50

So the plan is full rear axle with everything attached so brake lines and ebrake cables.

So do I need the brake master cylinder as well guys? I cant find a different part number and people do other kits with out changing but thought Id ask and also document this a bit. Also anything else different for vitz rs? Does ecu have a different tune?

Shes low Km pretty rare car so this will only add value to her being the only actual Yaris with rear discs like the Vitz RS and allow me so many more brake upgrade options as far as pads and discs go.

Reading more on here i think I need the brake propertioning valve instead of the brake master cylinder? Tomorrow arvo i go to check out the car and tell them what i need them to pull off for my conversion kit which they gave me a flat price on, I just need to have the parts list ready.

Edit:
Checked out the donor car today and someone had nabbed a brake disc but also taken it apart and no bolts to be seen. So I may have to flag this. got 3 weeks before it gets scrapped so need to decide if i should just buy what they have and find new bolts.

[remcafee]

you would want to get the front brakes too off of it because then your rear brakes would be bigger than the fronts, you do not need a proportioning valve if you do the front and rear brakes off of the vitz rs

[remcafee]

you will also need the e brake cables, brake lines (flexible and hard lines on rear axle), backing plates, and i would get new rear axle bushings while you are doing that work

[Compeer]

Whats the size of the vitz RS front brake rotors compared to the 1.5 Yaris? Some of this info is hard to find, but I can measure my front rotors and the vitz rs, but it didnt look bigger and the rear ones are tiny. The front brakes are all their if its just the callipers and the rotors I need thats easy. Axle bushings should be sweet its pretty low k and never been thrashed, will check them to make sure.

[remcafee]

i cant remember exact size, i remember them being 25mm larger overall diameter, and like 5mm more thick, calipers physically look the same dimensions but the caliper piston bore diameter is larger

[Compeer]

thanx bro! ok front and rear brakes it is!

Edit: went back today and looked and the front brakes were missing most of the parts as they had been taken apart and sold in parts but then he said he though he had another RS but older model in the back and when i looked it was the same model and had the entire full set of untouched everything!

it just had 3 cars stacked ontop of it. Anyway Im getting the front hubs and brakes, rear entire subframe with hoses and the hand brake cables.

I hope the front brake hoses are the same?

[remcafee]

yes the front hoses are the same

[Compeer]

Sweet thank you. Whole set is going to be 225usd. Which I think is a pretty sweet price for basically the entire rear end and front erntire hubs lol

Should be able to drop the old one off and pop the new one on, Will just need to watch some guides on installing the handbrake cables.

Once I get this done plan is a custom header, maybe the 1zz throttle body and last but not least Ive been searching for a decent LSD corolla gearbox that bolts up.

[remcafee]

damn im jelous i bought everything new at my work with employee discount was still 1700$ i think, its hard to find rear disc yaris se out where i am that are in scrapyards

[Compeer]

Yeah Im in New Zealand so we have NZ new Yaris and also japanese secondhand import Vitz.

NZ has for the last 40 years imported secondhand JDM cars enmass. We have a deal with japan for their secondhand cars.

So there was a SE yaris that had the same brakes?

[remcafee]

the usdm 2012-2018 toyota yaris SE was outfitted with larger front brakes and rear disc brakes compared to the lower level trims

[Neinris]

you will also need the e brake cables, brake lines (flexible and hard lines on rear axle), backing plates, and i would get new rear axle bushings while you are doing that work

Would you happen to know the PN for the hard lines for the rear?

[Flubby]

This car looks pretty awesome! I wonder how much stopping distance will be improved with discs on the back, Im assuming it will be reduced a bit.

[Compeer]

Just did a little research and discs have between 17-33% less braking distance and have the same even after alot of braking where as the drums become weaker brakes the hotter they get.

This video shows this well https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgtZZUJ6PzA.

You can see the drum brake truck never even gets close to stopping where the disc brake truck does.

And cheers man the Yari's name is Ruby! I named her since I had named the last two corollas I had, First was Sally and the next was Betsy.

Also good old might car mods lol...my guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YhUv4cBoiA

[enviri]

^ hah its great to get solid figures to show those "its only cosmetic" naysayers of the mighty disc swap :P

[Compeer]

This is the best upgrade you can do for your car after tyres.

Also found this guy on youtube and they show you how to change a bunch of toyota brakes over that are all partsbin stuff and interchangeable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6scgqKauLM

[remcafee]

Would you happen to know the PN for the hard lines for the rear?

47323-0d201 and 47324-0d201 are the part numbers for the left and right hard lines.

[remcafee]

This car looks pretty awesome! I wonder how much stopping distance will be improved with discs on the back, Im assuming it will be reduced a bit.

to be honest, the brakes dont necessarily change the stopping distance in my opinion, the thing i noticed most is more instant bite when you hit the pedal and less brake fade when you are 5+ laps in on a track the pedal does not get spongy.
tires are what affects your stopping distance in all reality

[Neinris]

47323-0d201 and 47324-0d201 are the part numbers for the left and right hard lines.

Thank you Remcafee... well fudge, I thought I found the correct part numbers. Would you be able to tell me what 47323-52110 and 47324-52100 are? Because those are what I ordered. :redface:

to be honest, the brakes dont necessarily change the stopping distance in my opinion, the thing i noticed most is more instant bite when you hit the pedal and less brake fade when you are 5+ laps in on a track the pedal does not get spongy.
tires are what affects your stopping distance in all reality

Tires will definitely help your stopping power, no argument there.

In my experience, since my DeeDee (Yaris) don't have ABS, I've locked my front wheels more than a few times, due to my rear drum brakes fading, going down a hill and suddenly stopping at a traffic light. I believe its the rear brakes, because they were great for the first 6 months when I first replaced them, never locked my wheels and they supposedly should last longer than the front disc because the front brakes takes most of the weight and beating. It's starting to get colder here in MD and it seems to be helping cool the drums which have prevented me from locking up, or maybe it's just my imagination.
DeeDee is the third car I've owned without ABS. First was a 1973 VW Beetle, which I bought to learn how to drive a manual, it had 4 drum brakes!!! I locked the front wheels often because she just wouldn't stop sometimes, I later found that the previous owner had plugged the hole in the brake fluid reservoir leading to the rear because there's a leak somewhere in the hardline going to the rear. The second car I owed that didn't have ABS was a 92 Prelude, which had all disc brakes. I only locked up the wheels a couple of times when I first got her, before I've learned how to control my braking with that car. I was a lot younger then and more aggressive driver then than now.
So I'm definitely onboard with getting all 4 disc brakes.
I hope someone found my experiences useful. :smile:

[Compeer]

Yeah sounds about right.

Did you change your wheel studs to longer ones? I would like to get some 3-5mm spaces to fix offset on my roh zs.

Im going to to change the gear box oil too its a bit crunchy some times going into gears hence Ive been looking for a good lsd unit. Would also pick your brain on gear box oil you prefer?

[remcafee]

Thank you Remcafee... well fudge, I thought I found the correct part numbers. Would you be able to tell me what 47323-52110 and 47324-52100 are? Because those are what I ordered. :redface:



Tires will definitely help your stopping power, no argument there.

In my experience, since my DeeDee (Yaris) don't have ABS, I've locked my front wheels more than a few times, due to my rear drum brakes fading, going down a hill and suddenly stopping at a traffic light. I believe its the rear brakes, because they were great for the first 6 months when I first replaced them, never locked my wheels and they supposedly should last longer than the front disc because the front brakes takes most of the weight and beating. It's starting to get colder here in MD and it seems to be helping cool the drums which have prevented me from locking up, or maybe it's just my imagination.
DeeDee is the third car I've owned without ABS. First was a 1973 VW Beetle, which I bought to learn how to drive a manual, it had 4 drum brakes!!! I locked the front wheels often because she just wouldn't stop sometimes, I later found that the previous owner had plugged the hole in the brake fluid reservoir leading to the rear because there's a leak somewhere in the hardline going to the rear. The second car I owed that didn't have ABS was a 92 Prelude, which had all disc brakes. I only locked up the wheels a couple of times when I first got her, before I've learned how to control my braking with that car. I was a lot younger then and more aggressive driver then than now.
So I'm definitely onboard with getting all 4 disc brakes.
I hope someone found my experiences useful. :smile:
hmmm it appears those part numbers are a production change effect i am 90% sure they are the same just when toyota changes faciltys or part manufacturers they change the part number, im sure they are the same if not very similar, might have some different inspection paint marks and could be a different color, toyota always changes up the fine details like that, its rather annoying if you ask me but it is what it is.

[remcafee]

Yeah sounds about right.

Did you change your wheel studs to longer ones? I would like to get some 3-5mm spaces to fix offset on my roh zs.

Im going to to change the gear box oil too its a bit crunchy some times going into gears hence Ive been looking for a good lsd unit. Would also pick your brain on gear box oil you prefer?

you can use 5mm spacers with stock studs, you still have lots of thread bite left to safely fasten a lug nut all through the stud, if you only get lless than 2 full turns of thread then thats unsafe as hell.
use redline mt90, it really is magic how well it works on improving high mileage transmissions with worn synchros.

[Compeer]

Sweet cheers for the advice bro!

Todays the day, will be going out to pick it all up shortly, will post pics tonight of the parts!

EDIT: damn the wreckers hadnt even pulled the parts off the old car...Told me another week lol ffs..good things take time I guess

[sh0rtlife]

ive considered snagging similar parts out of japan as i noted some of those cars wearing 14s with rear disc..to which i was shocked

can you confirm?

[remcafee]

ive considered snagging similar parts out of japan as i noted some of those cars wearing 14s with rear disc..to which i was shocked

can you confirm?

i will see if i can find a 14" wheel at my work and try test fitting on my car, dont get your hopes up though as 14" wheels are hard to see around here with an array of minivans and crossovers here at my shop

[Neinris]

ive considered snagging similar parts out of japan as i noted some of those cars wearing 14s with rear disc..to which i was shocked

can you confirm?

I’m not sure if 14s will fit, not for the front anyway. I imagine if you have rear disc brakes then your front rotors are bigger. I have the SE rotors upfront, and they barely fit 15s.

[Compeer]

Parts are ready for me! Will be collecting today and taking some pics of the loot!

[Compeer]

All done some of the wip pics, ran out of light to take pics with them donje but will take some tomorrow after I wear the rust off the rotors with a decent drive.

I have lock nuts on the wheels that the tyre shop installed..I broke two of the locknut sockets..I adned up bashing the second crasked socket into a brass tube so ut couldnt break anymore and got the wheels off. None of thebolts had been touched on the car and I did it with hand tools so every second bolt was a struggle and I installed it all myself. I do not recommend trying to hold up, align and screw bolts into a rear subframe by yourself! Not fun!

Brakes feel good but very different, no longer are they super touchy feels like I have waider range of braking now but I may still have some air in the system. Also the parts ended up coming with everything, shocks springs the works, So i have spare set of all rear bushings full set of spare shocks and springs and I have the old brakes to sell also.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/792442324625784862/1035109692092981288/IMG_21721.JPG
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[Neinris]

Is your car lowered? Did you use the upper mounting holes?

[remcafee]

you also did the fronts right? if you panic stop its gonna be unsafe and the car will wrap itself around

[Compeer]

Is your car lowered? Did you use the upper mounting holes?

Car is lowered on trd springs and shocks from factory, it was using the lower mounts so I put it back as it was. I didn't know this was a thing tho..Now I want to change the mount positions.

Literally gonna go change those mounts today, the car always felt weird in the ass, I ran lower tire pressure rear to make up for it.

Cheers for letting me know.

[Compeer]

you also did the fronts right? if you panic stop its gonna be unsafe and the car will wrap itself around

I installed the full rs kit, but even with just the rear it would have been fine, the rears are smaller than standard fronts and have far less braking force. Anyway feels perfectly stable coming to a quick stop at 60km haha but I do need to keep bleeding the system its not quite right yet i can feel air i it sinks a bit if you lay on it so will bleed it a few after a few drives

[enviri]

rears are actually a bit larger in diameter than non-rs fronts (255mm), at 260mmx9mm. its good you upgraded to rs front brakes (275mm)

[Compeer]

rears are actually a bit larger in diameter than non-rs fronts (255mm), at 260mmx9mm. its good you upgraded to rs front brakes (275mm)

Sweet as i thought they were a tiny bit smaller but didnt measure them and had seen on youtube guys just adding the rear discs and so thought it was sweet. I got a full set of RS springs and shocks and spare bushings now, will have a decent parts box.

I changed the trailing arm mount position to the upper one and applied loctite to all the suspension bolts and then I bled the clutch line and that solved the squishy brakes.

Actualy didnt even have to remove the wheels to change the suspension mount point, I just put the car on stands and took the bolts out and used the jack to put it up to the new position, took me longer to put the car on the stands.

I also jacked the trailing arm up BEFORE tightening down the bolts this time so that the trailing arm was preloaded.

the things you learn.

But cars handling way better and now the brakes feel amazing! just need a decent drive to wear the rust off the rotors.

Big thanks to everyone here for the help guys! More mods to come!

[enviri]

just look out for rear beam slapping your chassis over time once its all settled now that you swapped bolt positions, and you are good to go

[Compeer]

just look out for rear beam slapping your chassis over time once its all settled now that you swapped bolt positions, and you are good to go
Im guessing i would hear that, but feels pretty damn good now, like i think the trd suspension is supposed to feel, especially with the 15x7 wheels.

It used to often feel like you were being blown by the wind trying to drive a straight line at 100km/ph before. Like the ass end of the car was a trailer being towed.

Since I put an entire new rear end in I am going to go and have it realigned tomorrow so I know shes all on point again.

[remcafee]

it is common that when switching the rear acle mount position, if you have a street setup with somewhat soft springs, you will hit the gas tabk going over bumps, the trd springs are fairly soft and just keep an eye on wear on your gas tank over time, only way to avoid is go sloe over bumps or get stiffer springs

[Compeer]

it is common that when switching the rear acle mount position, if you have a street setup with somewhat soft springs, you will hit the gas tabk going over bumps, the trd springs are fairly soft and just keep an eye on wear on your gas tank over time, only way to avoid is go sloe over bumps or get stiffer springs

Could put a layer of stick on rubber there or something i guess?

[Neinris]

just look out for rear beam slapping your chassis over time once its all settled now that you swapped bolt positions, and you are good to go

I've never had this issue, and I've had this setup for over a year now. I even had my whole family ride this weekend, wife in the front passenger seat and the two kids in the back. I'm around 180lbs, my wife's around 90lbs, my 10 year old son who sat behind me is about 70lbs, and my 16 year old is about 150lbs. We went over some dips and bumps, I didn't hear or feel any slapping of the rear axle beam on the chassis. I'm on Tein S. Tech lowering springs, and still stock shocks on the back, Bilstein B8s struts up front.

[Compeer]

I've never had this issue, and I've had this setup for over a year now. I even had my whole family ride this weekend, wife in the front passenger seat and the two kids in the back. I'm around 180lbs, my wife's around 90lbs, my 10 year old son who sat behind me is about 70lbs, and my 16 year old is about 150lbs. We went over some dips and bumps, I didn't hear or feel any slapping of the rear axle beam on the chassis. I'm on Tein S. Tech lowering springs, and still stock shocks on the back, Bilstein B8s struts up front.

I had the entire rear subframe, 2 tonne jack, front old hubs and, springs shocks and jack stands and tool box in the back after i was done and just check no marks from slappage, so Idk it had like twice the weight in the rear and didnt touch. If it does i will buy the stick on rubber pads.

[Compeer]

it is common that when switching the rear acle mount position, if you have a street setup with somewhat soft springs, you will hit the gas tabk going over bumps, the trd springs are fairly soft and just keep an eye on wear on your gas tank over time, only way to avoid is go sloe over bumps or get stiffer springs

Ok so after hitting some bumps a little to hard and hearing the clank and then reading more on threads here I found someone saying they thought it was the brake hose bracket that hit and not the fuel tank, I have had a look and they are right. Not sure how I did not notice this before.

https://i.gyazo.com/f57e63f36c345af09bbd821ca6874b7a.jpg
Yes those are contact marks above the brake hose on the chassis rail.

just look out for rear beam slapping your chassis over time once its all settled now that you swapped bolt positions, and you are good to goI will be going back to the normal lower suspension mount holes. This is not a safe mod at all. a larger than normal bump in the road will crush the brake hose or severe it.

This is 100% a MOTORSPORT ONLY modification that requires relocation of your brake lines.

Just thinking about this the upper hole is not on there for motorsport, toyota would never do that this is for the 1.3 litre 4wd vitz, it has a rear diff and drive shaft that needs to clear the rear subframe and has a different rear subframe again to the RS/base along with a different fuel tank. The 4wd are always automatic 1.3 litre 4 speed auto and kinda rare.

No more recommending this to people everyone.

Edit: the 4wd vitz are 2nz-fe not the 1sz-fe.

[sh0rtlife]

actualy the 4wds are not rare..they just never left japan......every time ive looked thru at them for importing theres atleast a couple up for sale..and CHEEP...if someone told me i could swap the 1.5 onto the 4wd trans with 100% certanty id have pulled the trigger on one

[Compeer]

actualy the 4wds are not rare..they just never left japan......every time ive looked thru at them for importing theres atleast a couple up for sale..and CHEEP...if someone told me i could swap the 1.5 onto the 4wd trans with 100% certanty id have pulled the trigger on one
I have not seen a 4wd older one for sale or wrecking for parts here yet so idk rare in my experience so far. I keep looking because I want to see if you can get a manual corolla carib 4wd box to work with it which would make for a really fun car to drive.

Also I will take more pics when I change the suspension back to lower mount holes to show the contact points and why not to change the suspension mounting points.

[sh0rtlife]

youve got my attention with that..which rolla box? and assume said rolla box would mean 1.5 or 1.8 swap too?

the exporters ALWAYS have a few of em listed tho there isnt always good pic's...ive come across a few of the listings tho that had pics galore , and can state with some certanty that the driveshaft runs right down the center of the car and connects to what looks like an old toyota pickup axle...but like i said, the fact that they all have a teeny tiny engine has kept me from pulling the trigger as no one seems to know anything about the trans or swapability
but lets face it the chassis will take whatever we want, its a question of "how" do you keep the 4wd...so what trans were you thinking?...i mean hell at that point you wouldnt need a factory 4wd unit, you would need a rear axle, driveshaft and trans and rear axle mounting

[enviri]

Ok so after hitting some bumps a little to hard and hearing the clank and then reading more on threads here I found someone saying they thought it was the brake hose bracket that hit and not the fuel tank, I have had a look and they are right. Not sure how I did not notice this before.

I will be going back to the normal lower suspension mount holes. This is not a safe mod at all. a larger than normal bump in the road will crush the brake hose or severe it.

This is 100% a MOTORSPORT ONLY modification that requires relocation of your brake lines.

No more recommending this to people everyone.


a man of reason. good stuff. I didnt like swapping mount holes either. I already fear the rust monster, and I dont want another thing to fear. 11+ years and still going strong since rear disc swap!

[Compeer]

a man of reason. good stuff. I didnt like swapping mount holes either. I already fear the rust monster, and I dont want another thing to fear. 11+ years and still going strong since rear disc swap!

haha right me too even with my body in such good shape, I still am anti rusting anything that looks remotely like it might start to rust

[Neinris]

Ok so after hitting some bumps a little to hard and hearing the clank and then reading more on threads here I found someone saying they thought it was the brake hose bracket that hit and not the fuel tank, I have had a look and they are right. Not sure how I did not notice this before.

I haven't been here for a bit. Hmmm... Thanks for pointing it out... I'm currently on work travel, I'll check mine out when I get home.

[Compeer]

I haven't been here for a bit. Hmmm... Thanks for pointing it out... I'm currently on work travel, I'll check mine out when I get home.

Yes...there have been some developments :burnrubber:Bit of hard driving produced some unwanted results lol

Also Im slowly ticking off the things needed for some light autoX racing in the future and on the list was the brake pads and rotors.

The brake upgrade came with spme unknown chinese brand "CAC" brake pads and had some rust spots and scratches on the braking surface even after some heavy footed stops and lively driving through the windys for 6 hours and I don't pad slap and so the rotors are at the brake shop getting machined and I have ordered some Bosch pads.

I still get a staff discount at one of the part stores and so thats what pushed me towards the Bosch Blue pads at $117 front and rear versus Toyota which was $267 front and rear.

What type of brake pads do you guys run? and what have you used for competition racing?

[sh0rtlife]

i just killed off the "new" sed of pads from my rotor swap, they didnt last long and i didnt expect them to, swapped out for full ceramic..so far so good

i would personaly run "hawk" but the price hurts

[Compeer]

i just killed off the "new" sed of pads from my rotor swap, they didnt last long and i didnt expect them to, swapped out for full ceramic..so far so good

i would personaly run "hawk" but the price hurts

I have personally not seen Hawk for sale over here, We have EBC race brakes here in Auckland and maybe in the future I will go this route if it seems needed.

Got the job done today anyway guys after my pads and rotors arrived this morning, They barely skimmed 0.5mm from my rotors and they are mint again, New Bosch semi metalic pads feeling great already.

https://i.gyazo.com/66b49f5c7b89a4871aeec9e7f3329b3f.jpg

https://i.gyazo.com/37efc0f6aa5d06f3ba10009184c3ffd2.jpg

Also check out how terrible these "CAC" brand brake pads were. Front left was normal looking while the right is half glazed as seen below.
https://i.gyazo.com/8a44648f953063dead43777ad565fcb1.jpg

And the back left and right are far worse.
https://i.gyazo.com/01511c6366320efef777eca975b0c363.jpg https://i.gyazo.com/2d34b59b940a3564e4e13b9e9e96d661.jpg

...and now I need to repaint the wheels as they keep chipping. :cool:

[sh0rtlife]

hawk being a race company isnt one of those things youll see on a shelf..well..anywhere

ive run a few grades of their pads in my alfas and the pads were worth every over priced penny, but i havnt been able to justify it for the yaris...yet

[Compeer]

hawk being a race company isnt one of those things youll see on a shelf..well..anywhere

ive run a few grades of their pads in my alfas and the pads were worth every over priced penny, but i havnt been able to justify it for the yaris...yet

Fair enough, I always used bendix in the past but they were ceramic and I read they are worse for light track use than semi metalics.

Need to take her out to really bed in the new brakes, but been stipping my wheels and getting them ready for a paint.

[Neinris]

Ok so after hitting some bumps a little to hard and hearing the clank and then reading more on threads here I found someone saying they thought it was the brake hose bracket that hit and not the fuel tank, I have had a look and they are right. Not sure how I did not notice this before...

BTW, I checked and my brake line bracket also hits. I will be relocating my brake line brackets.

[Compeer]

BTW, I checked and my brake line bracket also hits. I will be relocating my brake line brackets.

I looked at it but the brake line doesnt have much room and still goes over the top of it and the brake line was a bit tight when I shoved it down that side to see how it would fit, I think you need a 2-3cm longer hose?

[Neinris]

I looked at it but the brake line doesnt have much room and still goes over the top of it and the brake line was a bit tight when I shoved it down that side to see how it would fit, I think you need a 2-3cm longer hose?

As you already know, my disc brake conversion is underway. I already have all the hardware necessary to complete the conversion, minus the materials for the brackets. But I'm looking into replacing the brake line from the hard line under the chassis to the caliper with one rubber hose, instead of transitioning from hardline to rubber hose, to hardline, to rubber hose connected to the caliper. This could give me the opportunity to reroute them, and just remove the brackets that hits the frame.

[sh0rtlife]

FWIW i remember something about not ever wanting a "flexible" brake line longer than 15? inches due to "swell" under pressure, and anything that long MUST be braided, with that said i have done up to 23 if memory serves on a 4wd conversion ford van

[Compeer]

As you already know, my disc brake conversion is underway. I already have all the hardware necessary to complete the conversion, minus the materials for the brackets. But I'm looking into replacing the brake line from the hard line under the chassis to the caliper with one rubber hose, instead of transitioning from hardline to rubber hose, to hardline, to rubber hose connected to the caliper. This could give me the opportunity to reroute them, and just remove the brackets that hits the frame.

I think like Short says it needs the new hard brake line made up, I think it would be easier, just move the bracket on each side and have a new line made at a brake shop should not cost to much.

[sh0rtlife]

I think like Short says it needs the new hard brake line made up, I think it would be easier, just move the bracket on each side and have a new line made at a brake shop should not cost to much.

again FWIW making hardlines is EASY and dirt cheep, even easier if you have the OE fittings cut from an old set of lines..at that point all you need is the right length of line and a a lil time with a flair tool....ive made countless amounts of line over the years, get a cheep flair tool and a few feet of line cut the ends off and flair repeate till you understand what your doing..after that making your line will take only a few moments

[Neinris]

FWIW i remember something about not ever wanting a "flexible" brake line longer than 15? inches due to "swell" under pressure, and anything that long MUST be braided, with that said i have done up to 23 if memory serves on a 4wd conversion ford van

I see why that section in the rear is broken into hard line, rubber hose, hard line, then rubber hose again, to shorten the rubber hose length.

The slight swelling under pressure is what I was banking so you'd get less pressure in the rear for your rear disc conversion.

I'm keeping the hard line in between the two rubber hoses that I have, but I'll straighten the hardline, to extend it a bit and be able to tuck the rubber hose and not use the original bracket so it won't hit the frame.

[Compeer]

I see why that section in the rear is broken into hard line, rubber hose, hard line, then rubber hose again, to shorten the rubber hose length.

The slight swelling under pressure is what I was banking so you'd get less pressure in the rear for your rear disc conversion.

I'm keeping the hard line in between the two rubber hoses that I have, but I'll straighten the hardline, to extend it a bit and be able to tuck the rubber hose and not use the original bracket so it won't hit the frame.

chop the original bracket off and weld it on inside instead of the top, theres a thread on here I read where they did this. Not sure if they got new hardlines made.

[Neinris]

chop the original bracket off and weld it on inside instead of the top, theres a thread on here I read where they did this. Not sure if they got new hardlines made.

That's exactly what I had planned on doing, but my buddy (who made the plate for my disc conversion) can't make it to help me this weekend to install the disc conversion. He has a welder, but he lives an hour away, I'm too lazy to grab it during the weekday. I'll probably end up just riveting the brackets in place.

I bought the stock hard lines supposedly for the Yaris SE, PN 47324-52100 & 47323-52110. But having a shop make them would probably have been cheaper. :redface:
Well, at least I can use them to mock up about where to put the rear most brackets before I straighten them out a bit to stretch them to reach the bracket that will be relocated.

Are the TRD springs that much softer than the Tein's? Or I guess it's just the angle of your pic that makes it look closer to the frame vs mine?

https://i.gyazo.com/f57e63f36c345af09bbd821ca6874b7a.jpg

https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61550&stc=1&d=1615157532

https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61551&stc=1&d=1615157532

[Compeer]

That's exactly what I had planned on doing, but my buddy (who made the plate for my disc conversion) can't make it to help me this weekend to install the disc conversion. He has a welder, but he lives an hour away, I'm too lazy to grab it during the weekday. I'll probably end up just riveting the brackets in place.

I bought the stock hard lines supposedly for the Yaris SE, PN 47324-52100 & 47323-52110. But having a shop make them would probably have been cheaper. :redface:
Well, at least I can use them to mock up about where to put the rear most brackets before I straighten them out a bit to stretch them to reach the bracket that will be relocated.

Are the TRD springs that much softer than the Tein's? Or I guess it's just the angle of your pic that makes it look closer to the frame vs mine?

https://i.gyazo.com/f57e63f36c345af09bbd821ca6874b7a.jpg

https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61550&stc=1&d=1615157532

https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61551&stc=1&d=1615157532

the tein are softer but also its the Flex Z so I I can shorten front and rear shock absorbers to match the ride height, So yeah the shocks are shorter even than my short trd shocks which I believe are shorter than stock as well.

Honestly there is a guy selling a set of cusco coilovers second hand and i kinda wanna get them, the fronts are stiffer but the rears are the same as tein, I could sell the flexz set then maybe, would have some decent track shocks and the tiens for the road. Just need to get my guy certified and plated for adjustables. If I buy the cusco i may even just swap the springs depending on how worn they are. Also do you run spacers? Plan to buy some so i can stop slight inner tire rub, Im thinking 3-5mm will do they only just touch full lock.

[Neinris]

the tein are softer but also its the Flex Z so I I can shorten front and rear shock absorbers to match the ride height, So yeah the shocks are shorter even than my short trd shocks which I believe are shorter than stock as well.

Honestly there is a guy selling a set of cusco coilovers second hand and i kinda wanna get them, the fronts are stiffer but the rears are the same as tein, I could sell the flexz set then maybe, would have some decent track shocks and the tiens for the road. Just need to get my guy certified and plated for adjustables. If I buy the cusco i may even just swap the springs depending on how worn they are. Also do you run spacers? Plan to buy some so i can stop slight inner tire rub, Im thinking 3-5mm will do they only just touch full lock.

Yeah, I thought you had the Flex Z's, but why did you go with the TRD? You can play with the Flex Z's preload without messing with the height ride. Oh but I guess you can't on the rear?

I'm on the Tein's S Tech lowering springs, I guess they're stiffer than the Flex Z's, but still comfortable. So I didn't really feel that the brake line brackets were hitting the frame until it was mentioned here. I haven't replaced my rear shocks yet, still stock. I'm planning on replacing them with Bilstein B8s. So that might even help with the brackets not hitting the frame, but I'll go ahead and relocate them when I complete the rear disc conversion this weekend. The front struts are already B8s, and what a difference they make. I still have to trim the bump stop, I only feel them bottoming out when I'm going 70+MPH on the freeway and hitting a bump. I've ridden in cousin's 370Z, and I feel that my Dee Dee is still more comfortable.

I'm not on any spacers, what's your wheel's stats? My wheels are from Mini Cooper, 15x5.5in 45 offset. I don't feel nor see any rubbing up front. Although, with the disc conversion I'm doing, the rear wheels' track will widen by 1/4in (6.35mm) on each side, meaning they will be 1.35mm (2.7mm total) wider than the front.
With my recent discovery, I'm pursuing the 5x114.3 PCD, and put Skyline R32 wheels, which are 16x8 30 offset. :biggrin:
If anyone here does it before me, give me credit... :laugh:
But I think it's been done over seas... :redface:

[remcafee]

flex zs are stiffer than s tech springs, the flex zs are 4ksprings front and rear

[Compeer]

Yeah, I thought you had the Flex Z's, but why did you go with the TRD? You can play with the Flex Z's preload without messing with the height ride. Oh but I guess you can't on the rear?

I'm on the Tein's S Tech lowering springs, I guess they're stiffer than the Flex Z's, but still comfortable. So I didn't really feel that the brake line brackets were hitting the frame until it was mentioned here. I haven't replaced my rear shocks yet, still stock. I'm planning on replacing them with Bilstein B8s. So that might even help with the brackets not hitting the frame, but I'll go ahead and relocate them when I complete the rear disc conversion this weekend. The front struts are already B8s, and what a difference they make. I still have to trim the bump stop, I only feel them bottoming out when I'm going 70+MPH on the freeway and hitting a bump. I've ridden in cousin's 370Z, and I feel that my Dee Dee is still more comfortable.

I'm not on any spacers, what's your wheel's stats? My wheels are from Mini Cooper, 15x5.5in 45 offset. I don't feel nor see any rubbing up front. Although, with the disc conversion I'm doing, the rear wheels' track will widen by 1/4in (6.35mm) on each side, meaning they will be 1.35mm (2.7mm total) wider than the front.
With my recent discovery, I'm pursuing the 5x114.3 PCD, and put Skyline R32 wheels, which are 16x8 30 offset. :biggrin:
If anyone here does it before me, give me credit... :laugh:
But I think it's been done over seas... :redface:

The car came with all the trd stuff installed. I put them back in for warrant of fitness, Adjustible suspension requires ceritifcation and I get also get seats and other things certed for it at the same time so need to sort seats and then go and get the car certifed and plated (they install a plate in the engine bay stating mods are legal).

flex zs are stiffer than s tech springs, the flex zs are 4ksprings front and rear

The cusco ones came with 5k front and 3.3k rear, If the springs fit thats still cheaper than the new set of springs for the tiens and if the cusco set is good can use that with just tien rear springs as ther cuscos are supposed to be for touring as well as fast street and supposed to be stiffer feeling.

https://i.gyazo.com/f93b8add67013072d5925afc6d1ad24b.png

Tein Spring set, looks like thinner diameter.

https://i.gyazo.com/c500d97563a5b83146d788b1b8b1f084.jpg

And the cusco set looks chunkier in the front for sure.

https://i.gyazo.com/9cbdd319e0da48165c4e5e6442f5124b.jpg

[sh0rtlife]

i hate the fact you can find this stuff used.......

[Compeer]

i hate the fact you can find this stuff used.......

If it was not used I would never be able to afford it to be honest and I search a LOT and I find almost nothing, I just always share it when I do find something haha

[sh0rtlife]

something thats been on my mind alot latey is the gen1 scion has a HUGE following..and alot of the stuf is the same from/for the yaris...are the struts?..i see them pop up all the time reasonably priced..id bet the spring rates arnt the same due to a lil extra weight but thats not the concern

[Neinris]

something thats been on my mind alot latey is the gen1 scion has a HUGE following..and alot of the stuf is the same from/for the yaris...are the struts?..i see them pop up all the time reasonably priced..id bet the spring rates arnt the same due to a lil extra weight but thats not the concern

Looking at the pics from RockAuto, the struts are different. The steering knuckle's mounting holes for the 1st GEN xB angles out, while the Yaris' are vertical.

I don't know what your goal is? Were you planning on using the xB1's strut in your Yaris or vise versa?

[sh0rtlife]

Looking at the pics from RockAuto, the struts are different. The steering knuckle's mounting holes for the 1st GEN xB angles out, while the Yaris' are vertical.

I don't know what your goal is? Were you planning on using the xB1's strut in your Yaris or vise versa?

i find performance XB parts pretty much every week and reasonably priced and useualy reasonably local......meanwhile finding performance yaris stuff means looking outside the country and bending over for shipping costs

so yeah im looking for alternatives

[Neinris]

i find performance XB parts pretty much every week and reasonably priced and useualy reasonably local......meanwhile finding performance yaris stuff means looking outside the country and bending over for shipping costs

so yeah im looking for alternatives

If you're trying to put xB1 suspension on the Yaris, you might have to put xB1 steering knuckles on the Yaris as well. I don't know how much you'd save, you'd need the steering knuckles, bearings, and hubs. And I don't know if the xB1 knuckles would work on the Yaris.

I'm extremely happy with my Tein S. Tech lowering springs and Bilstein B8 struts combo. And I've still yet to replace the rear shocks, they're still stock.
Some have used the Megan Racing lowering springs with the Bilstein B8 and have been very happy. The Megan Racing springs are softer than the Tein's.

Do you plan to track your car? If you do, check out what the regulations are.

[sh0rtlife]

nah no track time but i do find myself up in the hill hooning HARD and the stock suspension is pushed to its limits, the kicker is i need something progressive rate and idealy an adjustable shock/strut so i can dial it in to my driving style...sure at the end of the day its not my alfa alfetta sprint gt or GTV6 but id like to get it dialed in further...funny enough im not looking to lower it in the slightest, specificaly because of those mountain roads some of the dips allready tap the chins on the ground...so losing clearance is NOT an option

gotta be able to "stick" the corners even if theres bumps n dips..

[Neinris]

nah no track time but i do find myself up in the hill hooning HARD and the stock suspension is pushed to its limits, the kicker is i need something progressive rate and idealy an adjustable shock/strut so i can dial it in to my driving style...sure at the end of the day its not my alfa alfetta sprint gt or GTV6 but id like to get it dialed in further...funny enough im not looking to lower it in the slightest, specificaly because of those mountain roads some of the dips allready tap the chins on the ground...so losing clearance is NOT an option

gotta be able to "stick" the corners even if theres bumps n dips..

Are you still on stock suspension?
The Tein's lowering springs are progressive and the 1.9in drop makes a huge difference. I remember before I installed the lowering springs, I had a lot of body roll. Now I feel like on rails.
Before I got the Bilstein B8 struts, I thought about getting the Tein's Flex Z, but now, I'm content with my suspension. I think I'd just add rear sway bar, get B8 shocks for the rear, and maybe front tower bar.

[sh0rtlife]

cant lower.....roads wont allow it ..chins allready take hits as it is and im not talkin about just driveways but actual dips in the back roads

[Compeer]

cant lower.....roads wont allow it ..chins allready take hits as it is and im not talkin about just driveways but actual dips in the back roads

I am back using the TRS sportivo suspension currently, thats pretty close to stock height and rides nice, the springs could work good for you and are still around, little stiffer and tiny bit lower? I guess tho you have snow to deal with.

[sh0rtlife]

I am back using the TRS sportivo suspension currently, thats pretty close to stock height and rides nice, the springs could work good for you and are still around, little stiffer and tiny bit lower? I guess tho you have snow to deal with.

eh snows not the issue to be honest..and the snow tires are as tall as i can fit

its the roads i go burn up that are the issue....the super fun twistys have alot of odd dips n such, but were talkin twisty mountain roads that run like a rollercoaster...so youll hit hard dips and the chins will scrape....im at stock hight ..stiffer springs would help a little..so a tiny drop with some stiff would be fine

[Compeer]

eh snows not the issue to be honest..and the snow tires are as tall as i can fit

its the roads i go burn up that are the issue....the super fun twistys have alot of odd dips n such, but were talkin twisty mountain roads that run like a rollercoaster...so youll hit hard dips and the chins will scrape....im at stock hight ..stiffer springs would help a little..so a tiny drop with some stiff would be fine

I see the springs come up for sale quite a bit here