RS Intake Manifold,airbox mod and 1zzfe throttle body/injectors

[Compeer]

Hey guys I have been planning on doing the 1zz-fe throttle body sway for a while and have been reading up.

Found these guys selling RS intakes saying they produced a little better top end power and torque, it's one of the mods they do in asia.

Here a pick showing the difference, it's funny becasuse there is the mod to increase the size again from the longer version, which they said lowers where you get the torque but will decrease hp and toyota does know what they are doing and the best NA cars have short stacks not long ones.
https://cf.shopee.com.my/file/589b8cb88c2e6754bdc47871c9a2fc91

So I am picking up the intake and airbox today from an RS, Plan is to mod the airbox by removing the ribs, adding a performance panel filter and then enlarging the intake hole and adding an intake trumpet facing down into front bumper from the opposing side as the factory had it so the air is always flowing the same direction. May use some ofther factory car intake pipe to run from airbox to bumper cavity. I want to keep it short so not all the way down into bumper, with the floods I don't need my intake to low :iono:

For the intake manifoldI will use high temp plastic or even a wood adaptor plate with some gasket paper to fit a 59mm throttle body ether from a 1zzfe or a 1az as they are both the same size and we dont care about the electronics anyway as we will be following this amazing New Zealand guide https://sergei.nz/toyota-vitz-rs-and-its-disappointing-throttle-response/ So will be replacing the insides with the current yari insides of the throttle body and adjusting idle screw.

The 1zz-fe injectors and Throttle body I still need to go to a PickaPart wreckers and take off a car. Injectors will then go and be cleaned and flow matched with new filters and o-rings. Its about $33nzd an injector at local shops here in Auckland city.

Picked up some of the parts yesterday.
https://i.gyazo.com/6d3ceb04f2353d393ec057fe1b49cf53.jpg

Can see the RS Shorter intake and its part number.
https://i.gyazo.com/c01c47f6f863da9414062421c4d9f298.jpg

Time to MOD! Starting with the Airbox!

Used various pliers and what not to get all the ribbing out I could.
https://i.gyazo.com/52f02404398d056f092fd635177e1615.jpg https://i.gyazo.com/289998e94817a8af70ed6069ec59b79f.jpg https://i.gyazo.com/fd7f14d36c1b3dad19d1482e9a66657f.jpg

Then started to get serious and cut off the old intake ring to be used on the opposing side as well drilled out a hole for the new intake.
https://i.gyazo.com/b1d5a277d7589d5bd43672e9eeb2c91f.jpg https://i.gyazo.com/9091d2648ef77906c53bce2db3f0cad0.jpg

Then I got out the soldering iron and went ham using the plastic pieces I had removed to plastic weld the intake on and to seal the old holebefore sanding it all.
https://i.gyazo.com/d243ee3cb44cab994c47d19897248582.jpg https://i.gyazo.com/caf6051005d9a286a4527e5b8b544940.jpg https://i.gyazo.com/de8f4b8048392fe23835a4c990686034.jpg https://i.gyazo.com/c7144539ea91f831fab7a19ea499a859.jpg

[sh0rtlife]

it will be intresting to see if your plan works...and if it does ill be following your path for sure...the yaris suffers from a lack of torque off the hop

[Compeer]

it will be intresting to see if your plan works...and if it does ill be following your path for sure...the yaris suffers from a lack of torque off the hop

Yeah I can't wait to hear some intake noise as well, My airbox now works as a trumpet it's going to have way more "DOOOOORT!!!!" :headbang:

[sh0rtlife]

do we know if the "rs" short ram was used on any other car as a non RS?...i ask because i swear ive seen the short intake before but i cant place where....prius?

[Compeer]

do we know if the "rs" short ram was used on any other car as a non RS?...i ask because i swear ive seen the short intake before but i cant place where....prius?

Not prius but some of the larger cars got this manifold in 2004-2006 namely corolla variations and the ist for a hot minute.

Seems some of the more sporty corrola variants with 1.5 from 2008 on had them. If it has the shorter manifold it would be worth checking to see if it has the more aggressive vvti solenoid while you are the wreckers too.

[sh0rtlife]

Not prius but some of the larger cars got this manifold in 2004-2006 namely corolla variations and the ist for a hot minute.

Seems some of the more sporty corrola variants with 1.5 from 2008 on had them. If it has the shorter manifold it would be worth checking to see if it has the more aggressive vvti solenoid while you are the wreckers too.

shit..i actualy found the more agressive VVT on an XA.....maybe thats where i spotted the short ram

but ill be watching all the rolla's now cause torque is where these lil yaris fail

[Compeer]

shit..i actualy found the more agressive VVT on an XA.....maybe thats where i spotted the short ram

but ill be watching all the rolla's now cause torque is where these lil yaris fail

Yeah it should be good for a few hp's in the top end,
I will put the airbox on today today and give it a try, I still have the entire stock setup for everything so if I ever want to put her back to stock I have it all put away, this also lets me play and see what I like the feel of most.

[mitch9521]

huh, I didn't realize the manifolds were different.

the USDM 1NZ one is 17101-21080 while the "RS" manifold is 17101-21070. Guess its time to go on beforward and grab one off a Toyota Ractis or Vitz RS lol. I already have a second gen Ractis cluster in my 2014, may as well run a Ractis manifold too :laugh:

[Compeer]

huh, I didn't realize the manifolds were different.

the USDM 1NZ one is 17101-21080 while the "RS" manifold is 17101-21070. Guess its time to go on beforward and grab one off a Toyota Ractis or Vitz RS lol. I already have a second gen Ractis cluster in my 2014, may as well run a Ractis manifold too :laugh:

Have you already done the 1zz-fe throttle body and injector swap?

[mitch9521]

Have you already done the 1zz-fe throttle body and injector swap?

No. Stock injectors and TB, the throttle response doesn't bother me after I swapped in the Lexus IS250 pedal that gets rid of the dead spot and makes the pedal heavier feeling.

[Neinris]

No. Stock injectors and TB, the throttle response doesn't bother me after I swapped in the Lexus IS250 pedal that gets rid of the dead spot and makes the pedal heavier feeling.

I've thought of doing the pedal swap in the future. Would you share how you mounted the pedal? Did you make an adaptor plate?

[mitch9521]

I've thought of doing the pedal swap in the future. Would you share how you mounted the pedal? Did you make an adaptor plate?

The gen 3 Vitz RS has its own OEM pedal bracket so I just ordered one from RHDJapan. I don't know if it will work in a 2nd gen though.

Part number is 78114-52020.

[Neinris]

The gen 3 Vitz RS has its own OEM pedal bracket so I just ordered one from RHDJapan. I don't know if it will work in a 2nd gen though.

Part number is 78114-52020.

Thanks! Does it look like something like this? If so, did it feel weird that the pedal moved forward? The second and third gen's throttle pedals are the same btw.

[mitch9521]

Thanks! Does it look like something like this? If so, did it feel weird that the pedal moved forward? The second and third gen's throttle pedals are the same btw.

Sort of, its metal though and raises the pedal up about an inch which makes it almost level with the brake and clutch, makes heel-toe a breeze. The Lexus pedal I pulled out of the junkyard had that spacer, I didn't end up using it though and threw it out.

[Neinris]

Sort of, its metal though and raises the pedal up about an inch which makes it almost level with the brake and clutch, makes heel-toe a breeze. The Lexus pedal I pulled out of the junkyard had that spacer, I didn't end up using it though and threw it out.

Thanks! I can probably make such an adapter plate. It won't be pretty, but I won't see it so it'll be ok. :laugh:

[mitch9521]

Thanks! I can probably make such an adapter plate. It won't be pretty, but I won't see it so it'll be ok. :laugh:

If I remember right, the bracket was only ~$12 CAD on RHDJapan's OEM store lol

[Neinris]

If I remember right, the bracket was only ~$12 CAD on RHDJapan's OEM store lol

I'm not sure if you've looked recently, I punched in that PN 78114-52020, but it's no longer available.

[WeeYari]

It is on eBay. All I can quickly see is Canadian shipping which is as usual, astronomical. Don't know what US shipping would be.

[Compeer]

Got me a 1az throttle body today, tried to do the electronics swap, Broke it trying to get it apart like the guide said, lucky it was cheap.

Will wait for the correct throttle body, its hard finding them wrecked here and if you do find them the engines are gone.

What is the IS250 pedal part number? i have been looking around at Altezza's but same again, anything newer is not being wrecked.

[Neinris]

It is on eBay. All I can quickly see is Canadian shipping which is as usual, astronomical. Don't know what US shipping would be.

Thanks! Ebayer is selling it for $12.38 USD, but shipping is $22.81! I can make a adaptor plate for much cheaper. I will post whenever I get around to it.

OP, my apologies for hijacking... :redface:

[WeeYari]

To continue with the hijack, for $$ comparison, here is what a Canadian has to put up with.

[Neinris]

To continue with the hijack, for $$ comparison, here is what a Canadian has to put up with.

:laughabove:

[mitch9521]

To continue with the hijack, for $$ comparison, here is what a Canadian has to put up with.

My G's/GRMN tails cost almost twice as much to ship than I paid for the things. Ridiculous.

They do look good though.

[Compeer]

1zz-fe injectors from a volt aquired, but still struggling to track down the correct throttle body, Might have to bite the bullet and go to a parts store for it.

[sh0rtlife]

see thats something that ive been trying to understand is "what" to pull the TB from....everyone says use the TB its a great upgrade no one bothers to mention what its from!!!!!

[WeeYari]

Back in the day when TB swap was the hot mod, '05 Corolla 1ZZFE was the donor.
Search 'throttle body chip' will reveal everything you need to know.

[Neinris]

Mine was out of a Toyota Matrix PN 22030-0D030, which I got from Ebay for $30 including shipping. :thumbup: I drilled out the rivets and opened up the electronics and swapped with the Yaris' and it worked without any CEL (I don't think swapping out the electronics is necessary though). I ended up putting back the stock TB though when I was hunting for a ghost fault on my Dee Dee, but ended up finding out that the ODBII reader I was using was faulty, and made me buy stuff I didn't need. :frown:

I could put it back, but I think I'll just do the throttle pedal swap instead.

[Compeer]

Mine was out of a Toyota Matrix PN 22030-0D030, which I got from Ebay for $30 including shipping. :thumbup: I drilled out the rivets and opened up the electronics and swapped with the Yaris' and it worked without any CEL (I don't think swapping out the electronics is necessary though). I ended up putting back the stock TB though when I was hunting for a ghost fault on my Dee Dee, but ended up finding out that the ODBII reader I was using was faulty, and made me buy stuff I didn't need. :frown:

I could put it back, but I think I'll just do the throttle pedal swap instead.

Do both thats my plan, I have an is250 throttle lined up for $150 nzd and a 2zfr-fe throttle body for $128.

see thats something that ive been trying to understand is "what" to pull the TB from....everyone says use the TB its a great upgrade no one bothers to mention what its from!!!!!

Short you can get them out of any toyota car with a chassis number starting with ZZE that is 2006 onwards or any ZRE starting chassis car hope that helps.

The volt Injectors I picked up

https://i.gyazo.com/40ec16b5e5f5bb1302cd4adcfc5c3a42.jpg

I have been busy porting and polishing the RS inlet manifold and made it an adaptor plate, now there is a nice rounded lip into the larger diameter instead of a hard edge. the inlet has had a nice internal sanding as well to remove any hard edges.

https://i.gyazo.com/1760399ed1dd91e8abfc696e68ac91bf.jpg
https://i.gyazo.com/72e57054f81426c86546f397b3cd426f.jpg

It's very soft alu and with shellac and the gasket paper facing the throttle body and the original oring this should seal perfectly.
https://i.gyazo.com/24c9bcb589efc6d269eefb4d430c44ee.jpg

Polished the inlet manifolds exhaust ends as they all had a lot of sharp edges inside from the casting just like the main inlet had.
https://i.gyazo.com/a864c6ea22ccb2d066e6fbdadf6a30f6.jpg
https://i.gyazo.com/f54909e5496d4e45f99b5c41e7767fc0.jpg

[Neinris]

Do both thats my plan, I have an is250 throttle lined up for $150 nzd and a 2zfr-fe throttle body for $128...

I plan on doing a 2ZR-FE or 3ZR-FE swap... but that's in a very distant future, maybe 2+ years...

I'm not happy with my current 31 MPG/7.58757 l/100km to and from work. It's mostly city driving, but still. :frown:

That's why I'm hesitant to put the "1ZZ" TB back on.

[sh0rtlife]

I plan on doing a 2ZR-FE or 3ZR-FE swap... but that's in a very distant future, maybe 2+ years...

I'm not happy with my current 31 MPG/7.58757 l/100km to and from work. It's mostly city driving, but still. :frown:

That's why I'm hesitant to put the "1ZZ" TB back on.

lol i havnt modded mine much and im hovering around 27-29...but im a heavy footed bastard who drives hard.....id be happy to be up over 31 again...

my wife holds the record imo tho...moving down from canada, car packed to the gills, and a 4x8 trailer behind the yaris also packed ABOVE the roofline of the car and she manages 41.5mpg with it....course the wee yaris still only had around 60k miles on it

[Compeer]

Ok so the RS manifold does not fit, to fit an RS manifold you need the heater lines that came from an rs or simillar model that does niot run the heater hardlines behind the manifold.

Also the 2zr-fe Throttle body has no bends on the hose ends..doesnt matter tho since i just made the hoses bypass and run into each other.

Its dark nowe and almost got it done, just need to try to get the top part of the hose on now to try starting her

[sh0rtlife]

i hope you took a shot of the heater hose issue as that sounds like something easily modified....unless they thread into the block or something

FWIW most "old" cars had no heater hardlines it was all rubber.....and imo those rubber lines held heat better for the heater cores

[Compeer]

i hope you took a shot of the heater hose issue as that sounds like something easily modified....unless they thread into the block or something

FWIW most "old" cars had no heater hardlines it was all rubber.....and imo those rubber lines held heat better for the heater cores

It is the hardline that bolts into the water pump and runs to the right and then goes towards rear of car and connects to heater system. Needs to be planned out exactly how im going to do it, also its bloody hard to see so I need to also confirm its 100% the problem. The right side of the manifold is held up and those pipes are right where it felt to be hitting. Have not given up on the rs intake install just need to figure out the gremlin.

Heres the pics from the yarisworld discord performance channel I posted of the install of the 2rz-fe 22030-37010 throttle body.

Installed the the 1nz-fe chip with 4 PC bolts and a couple zip ties. The gears were dry and had evidence of rubbergrease so I regreased the gears which freed up the throttle blade allowing it open and close with about half the force of what it was before. I read that the stock chip could work but I could not get it to with 22030-37010's chip set it p2103 CEL every time.

https://i.gyazo.com/1cbba551f781407b6315362b3a0b2710.png

https://i.gyazo.com/7412d8684af2c499b9407f259f0cc19a.png

I made a cardboard gasket to go between my alu adaptor plate and the throttle body from the back of a drawing pad. The adaptor plate is 2mm soft aluminium with the inlet beveled to smooth the transition a bit. The seal/flame retarder has to have the first row cut off so the throttle blade does not hit.

https://i.gyazo.com/3ef879b2acef0260e59b1f27d88590fd.png

https://i.gyazo.com/8ab7620787daa25813cedc46b3a2db39.png

https://i.gyazo.com/a66d404359916568b69544026698428b.png

The boot is one of the biggest issues I will be trying to find a better solution because the airbox is under some pressure right now and I dont want things breaking with the engine reving, may have to make a fancy tube and just use this boot asthe sealing rings with hose clamps so it fits better. On a side not I want to put in an oil catch can anyway so can sort something out so that goes from pcv valve to catch can and can remove that from the intake. There was a LOT of oil in the intake manifold, enough that it was leaking out, Probably a sign its time for new valve stem seals.

https://i.gyazo.com/41a2e088c4096f3320ccf3f557b57f95.png

Ok so some notes and issues I ran into, The idle adjustment screw needs to be turned about 1 turn, the car will P2103 you get this right. The 2mm allen key was not enough to break the iddle adjustment screw free of the factory yellow glue, But I pulled the throttle body back off and hacksawed a slot in the idle screw for a flat head screw driver and that broke it free and I would honestly recomend doing that if yours is twisting your allen key like mine did. With the idle incorrect the car would drive a short while then error code and disable the throttle completly..be warned don't go out on the road without the OBD2 scanner, that allows you to reset it and atleast drive a short while. (it will drive untill you release accelerator pedal then give you no accelerator and CEL). The stock rubber intake gasket was beat up and for sure leaking a bit, I used the RS gasket as it was a blue nitrate and was fine so I recomend grabing a new one before you start.

Results? AMAZING! The damn thing feels alive in the low RPM, it just shoots up there now and the accelerator pedal feels much more precise. I think this is the best mod yet.

[sh0rtlife]

i attempted the TB board swap only to find both units used different main gears and different electric motors so much so that the "pins" off the motors wernt in the same spot.....annoyed

[Compeer]

i attempted the TB board swap only to find both units used different main gears and different electric motors so much so that the "pins" off the motors wernt in the same spot.....annoyed

Different back plate and I feel you bro I broke the 1az throttle body trying to get the cover off.

You could try taking the yellow glue off and adjusting the it back one turn, maybe she will accept it? we don't all have the same ecu and they can behave a bit differently

[sh0rtlife]

it was NOT the ribbed backing plate....but it is however a "reman" not a OE unit so that may be why....but 1 has what looks like a hall effect sensor nub an nothing else while the other has an actual main board in it..06 rolla S, and its only got the 2 water ports in the right spot..and rotatable

[Neinris]

i attempted the TB board swap only to find both units used different main gears and different electric motors so much so that the "pins" off the motors wernt in the same spot.....annoyed

Which TB did you try to install? I'm not sure if the 2ZR TB would work. The one that is used was from a Toyota Matrix with 1ZZ engine, PN 22030-0D030.

[Compeer]

Which TB did you try to install? I'm not sure if the 2ZR TB would work. The one that is used was from a Toyota Matrix with 1ZZ engine, PN 22030-0D030.

I just put all the pictures up of installing the 2zr-fe throttle body, so yeah it works.

Its some of the 1az/2az that don't work, tho some of them do. It just needs to have the correct case on the back unless you get lucky and your ecu doesnt throw a fit about having a different circuit board but my car did not like the new tb until I put the 1nz-fe chip on which could just be because I have a different ecu as NZDM rather than JDM import.

[sh0rtlife]

Which TB did you try to install? I'm not sure if the 2ZR TB would work. The one that is used was from a Toyota Matrix with 1ZZ engine, PN 22030-0D030.

06 rolla S thats all im sure of....as i pulled it myself

next one i pull im drilling the rivits in the wrecker before i even leave

[Compeer]

06 rolla S thats all im sure of....as i pulled it myself

next one i pull im drilling the rivits in the wrecker before i even leave

I think it needs to be genuine, if its some rando aftermarket jobby I would not even bother, its going to be different.

[Compeer]

Spent a couple days messing around with an intake pipe, my old man helped me braze it up, its brass and copper 57mm ID. Its a weird "S" shape and took a bit to get the angles right. It uses two normal intake boots large ends so that it fits on nice.

https://i.gyazo.com/a525c253420b00671feaf20839349652.jpg

The upside down standard boot faces the oil breather backwards and puts a lot of pressure on the air box lid, this has fixed that . I need to make some vids of how she sounds because damn it sounds good now.

[Compeer]

I have found a soloution to the problem with the rs manifold at the pickapart wreckers today I found a fielder with 1nzfe and the short intake AND an intake runner!

https://i.gyazo.com/17695170f6335609d73e379b1f83a842.jpg

https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/05-07-10_faq_nz/1NZ-FE_egr-intake_800.png

Ok so the runner is two part with a hollow passage for the exhaust gasses and has a port that runs to each intake. Effectively making this an intake heater! It was totally full if carbon, no way it was even working, so my plan is to make an egr blank off for my egr valve, It will be totally full of smut and not working anyway.

Anyway I have JB welded the ports up, so now its just an intake runner.

Will attempt to install this when the JB weld has fully set and then will look at the egr blank off and making an oil catch can so we can keep the intake nice (there was oil seeping out of the intake onto the engine from the breathers)

[Compeer]

Ok I went and got the longer studs today, you will need the studs, the front oil breather pipe, the runner and gasket +JB weld and a hacksaw.

https://i.gyazo.com/d28bb69443b6a2d333532434c589e123.jpg

I used JB weld on the ports and cut the end off.

https://i.gyazo.com/b57436a725e36c95dce3b42aa4f06552.jpg

https://i.gyazo.com/205b91e2d10129e1b964c77e95760446.jpg

https://i.gyazo.com/6fd63446405318e114b2a489cfd18587.jpg

Installed with the long standard manifold to try that!

https://i.gyazo.com/b8e8aba1523386c0e01eab90c1aa22a2.jpg

She is tight and now there is a process to take off the vvti solenoid which involces moving the intake manifold a bit.

https://i.gyazo.com/0033a73440b4bca6dc25f0938e38d211.jpg

All buttoned up, I have clocked the hose to fit. The runner is 25MM and so with the long non-rs intake manifold she has 100mm of straight section before entering the head.

https://i.gyazo.com/bca07a827b5433266582af4590e5b67e.jpg

I have just reset the ecu and let it idle till warm, she starts from cold at 2100rpm which drops to 1500rpm, then 720rpm when warm and then starts at 1200rpm when warm like a normal car.

Car sounds so damn good sitting here idling, will be testing it later.

Next steps are to get my 1zz-fe injectors serviced and installed, build a two in one oil catch can for both oil breather lines and then order a custom exhaust header.

[Neinris]

I thought the purpose of the RS intake was to have shorter runners, but now you're adding a spacer or two, wouldn't that be the same as stock length? Is there something else special about the RS intake manifold?

[Compeer]

I thought the purpose of the RS intake was to have shorter runners, but now you're adding a spacer or two, wouldn't that be the same as stock length? Is there something else special about the RS intake manifold?

See I never realized there was a spacer, I could not find any mention of it, with the spacer the rs manifold has the same 75mm of "straight" intake section as the normal non RS intake so unless you can mod the heater return pipe to move it (and even then it might not fit idk) the only change is making it longer not shorter.

Longer intake=lower powerband
Shorter intake= higher power band

So the RS manifold is a failed experiment until I can mod the heater pipe and see if it will fit on allowing for a 25MM shorter runner.

With the Runner on I now have 100mm of straight intake and IDK I guess the tooter guy was on to something because it feels better to drive off the line.

Lucky I get these things at the wreckers and I don't pay much for them, because I now have a spare ported manifold.

[remcafee]

you wont get any gains, my last racecar build, i found out for NA, you are severly limited by the camshafts lift and duration.

[Compeer]

you wont get any gains, my last racecar build, i found out for NA, you are severly limited by the camshafts lift and duration.

Certainly wouldn't expect hp gains but the difference in how she drives now is noticeble and the sound is just awesome compared to before, for autocross I think this is right on as your not doing high rpm driving its lots of sharp little corners and that is where the 1nzfe was weakest having that dead spot in the throttle.

After I get a set of exhaust headers made I will look at a cam regrind from Franklin cams here in auckland, they like messing with toyotas and they have done them before as we use the 1nzfe as a jetboat engine here a lot.

[mitch9521]

they have done them before as we use the 1nzfe as a jetboat engine here a lot.

Excuse me? I wanna see this, that sounds awesome. The 1NZ-FE doesn't get the love it deserves in North America.

[sh0rtlife]

done them before as we use the 1nzfe as a jetboat engine here a lot.

yes yes we need info and pics..its hard to fathom such a tiny engine being used for that
jetboats here are typicaly heavily boosted 4s v6s and big v8s

[ardianpradana]

I have use the RS intake manifold and not using any spacers

have to cut 1 bolt (knock sensor bolt I believe), and cut some coolant line and reroute the line

https://i.ibb.co/QbhnGCb/IMG-8308.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/9rsxmt1/IMG-8307.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/6y2xLYn/IMG-8320.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/kBHqNNZ/IMG-8321.jpg

[Compeer]

Excuse me? I wanna see this, that sounds awesome. The 1NZ-FE doesn't get the love it deserves in North America.

Theres a company here that specilizes turning them into jet boat engines, they are light wight, reliable and have plenty of torue for the job being designed for a cvt transmission they are perfect for jet boating. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkyk9MPCe-M

I have use the RS intake manifold and not using any spacers

have to cut 1 bolt (knock sensor bolt I believe), and cut some coolant line and reroute the line

https://i.ibb.co/QbhnGCb/IMG-8308.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/9rsxmt1/IMG-8307.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/6y2xLYn/IMG-8320.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/kBHqNNZ/IMG-8321.jpg

Nice so the bolt i didnt know I had to move and the hose I had realized was going to need modified, Right now im pretty happy with how the long set up is performing but will in the future try that, did you notice any difference?

[ardianpradana]

Theres a company here that specilizes turning them into jet boat engines, they are light wight, reliable and have plenty of torue for the job being designed for a cvt transmission they are perfect for jet boating. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkyk9MPCe-M



Nice so the bolt i didnt know I had to move and the hose I had realized was going to need modified, Right now im pretty happy with how the long set up is performing but will in the future try that, did you notice any difference?

in real world driving, I'm not noticing any differences

but on dyno, my peak torque shifts 300rpm higher

with stock manifold, the torque drop 25% between peak torque and torque at rev limiter

with RS manifold, the torque drop 19% between peak torque and torque and limiter

[sh0rtlife]

id love to know how much lower the peak torque comes on with the RS egr plate and the STOCK non rs manifold

[remcafee]

Spent a couple days messing around with an intake pipe, my old man helped me braze it up, its brass and copper 57mm ID. Its a weird "S" shape and took a bit to get the angles right. It uses two normal intake boots large ends so that it fits on nice.

https://i.gyazo.com/a525c253420b00671feaf20839349652.jpg

The upside down standard boot faces the oil breather backwards and puts a lot of pressure on the air box lid, this has fixed that . I need to make some vids of how she sounds because damn it sounds good now.
please for the love of god put your radiator cap right side up, its driving me crazy! lol!

[Compeer]

in real world driving, I'm not noticing any differences

but on dyno, my peak torque shifts 300rpm higher

with stock manifold, the torque drop 25% between peak torque and torque at rev limiter

with RS manifold, the torque drop 19% between peak torque and torque and limiter

Fair enough Im liking how mine runs now with the longer manifold, but may still change it up at some point.

Need to dyno my car to find out and won't do that till i have a tune for it.

Going to get a trd cap and leave it upside down just for remcafe! lmfao

[Neinris]

...Going to get a trd cap and leave it upside down just for remcafe! lmfao

:laughabove:

put the extenders on the stock intake... :bellyroll:

[ElMagnifico]

No. Stock injectors and TB, the throttle response doesn't bother me after I swapped in the Lexus IS250 pedal that gets rid of the dead spot and makes the pedal heavier feeling.

Part number for pedal?

[mitch9521]

Part number for pedal?

78110-53120


It will either require a Japan market Vitz NCP131 pedal bracket to work OR you can fab up something yourself. Electrically it is plug and play.

[Neinris]

78110-53120


It will either require a Japan market Vitz NCP131 pedal bracket to work OR you can fab up something yourself. Electrically it is plug and play.

Mitch, do you still have the 1ZZ TB installed? If so, did the pedal reduced/eliminated the rev hang?

[mitch9521]

Mitch, do you still have the 1ZZ TB installed? If so, did the pedal reduced/eliminated the rev hang?

Nope, stock TB. I have a port matched 1NZ manifold + 1ZZ TB sitting in my shed, never could get it to play nice with my car so its shelved for the time being. Lots of life events happening, so.

To answer your question; no it didn't change the rev hang. It just made the pedal even with the brake for easy heel toe downshifts and made the pedal heavier which I find much easier to modulate. It also eliminated that annoying dead spot the stock pedals have.

[sh0rtlife]

i wonder how well that pedal plays with the 1.8 tb....i know the TB removed "most" of the dead spot and rev hang...its still there but its been cut by more than 1/2

ive had no luck finding the pedal

[mitch9521]

i wonder how well that pedal plays with the 1.8 tb....i know the TB removed "most" of the dead spot and rev hang...its still there but its been cut by more than 1/2

ive had no luck finding the pedal

I came across an IS250 at a U-Pull, literally paid 20 bucks for it. Theres been a few more I've come across that I have passed on.

[sh0rtlife]

ontario vs OR...yeah...hell i havnt seen a 5dr yaris in over a year

[mitch9521]

ontario vs OR...yeah...hell i havnt seen a 5dr yaris in over a year

90% of Yari' here are 5 doors. Seeing a 3 door 3rd gen actually turns my head, they are quite uncommon. 2nd gens are a little more common.

[sh0rtlife]

3dr mk2s are uncommon but seen here, 5drs dont exist, mk3 5drs are even pretty uncommon
sedans fall from the skys....but when it comes to "wrecked" hatches..they dont exist at all

ive got a run into BC schedualed to pickup some stuff from MIL's storage, and im hoping i can hit a yard up there with a 5dr in it for some last tidbits at the same time

still have yet to complete the power window swap due to missing pieces....i can live with the door panels, but ive only managed to get 1 rear regulator and harness..fronts full power atleast

[mitch9521]

3dr mk2s are uncommon but seen here, 5drs dont exist, mk3 5drs are even pretty uncommon
sedans fall from the skys....but when it comes to "wrecked" hatches..they dont exist at all

ive got a run into BC schedualed to pickup some stuff from MIL's storage, and im hoping i can hit a yard up there with a 5dr in it for some last tidbits at the same time

still have yet to complete the power window swap due to missing pieces....i can live with the door panels, but ive only managed to get 1 rear regulator and harness..fronts full power atleast

Yeah definitely hitting up a Canuck U-pull would be a good idea. Fairly easy to find a 5 door with power windows here.

[sh0rtlife]

Yeah definitely hitting up a Canuck U-pull would be a good idea. Fairly easy to find a 5 door with power windows here.

i was going to hop the ferry out of port angels to victoria, but i may go the long way round thru vancouver just so i can have a possibility of 2 yards...

would be extra amusing to get the door panels out of canada..since it IS a canadian 07 5dr living stateside

[Compeer]

:laughabove:

put the extenders on the stock intake... :bellyroll:

It is! Its crazy torque down low now with the other mods Ive done, very very easy to loose traction now in 2nd and in the wet in most gears lol.

I haven't been active for a while because the car currently is just damn fun to drive, the Throttle body change, intake runner spacer, intake tube and airbox mod are just working so damn well. The car has no dead spot any more and will DURTTTTT all the way from 1.8krpm..give her the beans and it lights up till red line. With only 6400rpm max it feels like I never get off the torque curve. I dont think I will change the manifold to the shorter one as currently she destroys the tires in 1st and 2nd gear and feels like you are actually driving a hot hatch.

[sh0rtlife]

It is! Its crazy torque down low now with the other mods Ive done, very very easy to loose traction now in 2nd and in the wet in most gears lol.

I haven't been active for a while because the car currently is just damn fun to drive, the Throttle body change, intake runner spacer, intake tube and airbox mod are just working so damn well. The car has no dead spot any more and will DURTTTTT all the way from 1.8krpm..give her the beans and it lights up till red line. With only 6400rpm max it feels like I never get off the torque curve. I dont think I will change the manifold to the shorter one as currently she destroys the tires in 1st and 2nd gear and feels like you are actually driving a hot hatch.

id kill for the spacer..they dont seem to exist here.....all said mine pulls real good for everything else ive done

[Compeer]

id kill for the spacer..they dont seem to exist here.....all said mine pulls real good for everything else ive done

Its the EGR plate that I used JB weld on to seal the holes on. where ever you find the shorter manifold you find the egr plate, it bolts on to our block normally, just means you have to loose the top engine cover.

[Sokal13]

The gen 3 Vitz RS has its own OEM pedal bracket so I just ordered one from RHDJapan. I don't know if it will work in a 2nd gen though.

Part number is 78114-52020.

I tried to PM you but I think because I’m a lurker I can’t actually send PMs.

I’m trying to replicate your set up with the IS250 gas pedal. I got the bracket from Amayama and maybe I’m just being stupid, but I can’t seem to figure out how to mount it.

Did you need to drill and tap a hole or were you able to line the bracket up? I’m assuming the bracket is longways vertical like the parts diagram shows.

The Amayama diagram isn’t very helpful.

I’d appreciate any help you’re able to offer. I’d figure I’ll take photos and write it up for the next person while I’m at it.

This is what the mounting spot looks like on my 2013 USDM Yaris.

https://i.ibb.co/zD8yxKZ/IMG-3735.jpg (https://ibb.co/XMyhLmt)

Thank you for your time.