Yet another 2ZR swap - Auto to Manual + CARB legal

[rpster]

Inspired by the other awesome 2ZR builds here, I was hoping for the planets to align and give me a reason to embark on this swap on my own 2007 HB. When the auto trans finally gave up the ghost at 248k miles, the door was opened. It became clear that a full rebuild of the trans was needed, I of course decided on the harder option: 2ZR swap + manual swap + make it CARB legal.

Here's what I have so far:

Donor Car
https://i.imgur.com/qayMA0a.jpg
Found a manual XD at a Pick-N-Pull near me in relatively good condition that I could pull the engine, trans, mounts, harness, ecm, and associated accessories for the swaps. The longer mileage on the car necessitates some additional inspection and overhaul, but the combined cost is still less expensive than sourcing a "tested" engine/trans.

Electrical
With the XD's engine harness, there's a minimal amount of modifications needed to make the electrical work. On the engine side it's the MAF sensor (pinout is different from the Yaris). Also, a speedometer needs to be added to the XD transmission since my Yaris is non-ABS.

For the manual swap, the clutch neutral safety switch plug already exists on the harness in the footwell. Simply plug and play.

Emissions
To pass California BAR for smog, the cat must match the engine. The serial on the Yaris cat will not pass for the 2ZR, so a new cat had to be purchased. As long as the ECM matches the engine and all other emissions components are in place (fuel return, evap canister, etc), BAR guidelines will be met. CA BAR Engine Change details (https://www.bar.ca.gov/consumer/smog-check-program/engine-changes)

A/C
Compressor and hoses are different for the 2ZR, but compatible with the hard lines and existing condensor. I didn't get a chance to discharge

Upgrades
Changing out 5th with a lower geared set for lower RPMs and swapping in an MFactory Helical LSD while I have the transmission open for inspection.

Planning & Tracking Google Docs
These docs were compiled using info found here, verifying parts fitment on sites like ToyoDIY (http://www.toyodiy.com) and Amayama (http://www.amayama.com), and the official service manuals for each. You're welcome to track my progress and/or use as a parts reference.

2ZR Swap Tracker (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xWUNXhVmon0siE9UEpWw7sa3p-yqvurtOhkQe3lx_yo/) - Google Sheet
2ZR Swap Checklist (https://docs.google.com/document/d/1CU89zfDsjHACuA5tLgjlK0juaQaoVXGVofQc3Pk1xCY/) - Google Doc

Special thanks to tmontague, brushforhire, and ArmstrongRacing for their detailed threads

https://i.imgur.com/XaL1EiP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IBsRKzM.jpg
Engine Out!

https://i.imgur.com/bjVOOGZ.jpg
Brake booster removed

https://i.imgur.com/JV274jS.jpg
Floor shifter installed

[mitch9521]

Good stuff, I love the google spreadsheet ideas too, makes it easy to keep track of all the stuff you'll need without having to spend days scouring the forums lol

[sh0rtlife]

total llife saver on better compiling of the info, but the fact that you have FOUND the way to beat CARB is the real key here and the #1 thing holding me back a little, i mean ive been grabbing parts but that was the one thing in the back of my head holding me back

[rpster]

total llife saver on better compiling of the info, but the fact that you have FOUND the way to beat CARB is the real key here and the #1 thing holding me back a little, i mean ive been grabbing parts but that was the one thing in the back of my head holding me back

Glad it's helping people out! AFAIK only California, Colorado, Maine and New York are the only states that adhere to CARB (if the car was sold as CARB compliant), so you may be able to save a few hundred dollars with a Federal/EPA cat in Washington

[TommyWasabi]

Subscribed!

I just picked up an '08 3dr S in MT (not Sedan, but the S with the factory front/rear lips, and side skirts) to do this very swap.

I'll be following your swap and may even reach out when I get mine started.

The Google sheets will prove to be beneficial!

[Compeer]

Sick build so far!

[rpster]

Long time, no update! Had a few vacation days and am still waiting on a few more parts to finish the engine & transmission rebuilds.

Manual Conversion Complete

https://i.imgur.com/PtKUIXJ.jpg
Using a clutch pedal assembly picked from another manual Yaris at Pick-n-Pull, I used the bolt holes on the bracket as a template for the holes that needed to be made in the firewall. Used cobalt drill bits and a knockout punch set from harbor freight to make the holes.

https://i.imgur.com/x3jZQ1C.jpg
Brake booster being reinstalled after the clutch master cylinder. Yes, most of the brake line connections have to be disconnected and the brake booster removed in order to have enough space to install the clutch master cylinder and the hardline coming from it. The hardline also came from Pick-n-Pull.

https://i.imgur.com/g8bXto8.jpg
All brake lines reconnected to the new brake master cylinder and reservoir. Brake master cylinders/reservoirs are specific to each model based on ABS and trans. The spacing between the two circuits is different and in manual cars the clutch line system is fed from the brake fluid reservoir. I'm waiting on some tygon tubing to connect them together.

[rpster]

https://i.imgur.com/65bauOi.jpg
Lots happening, but not enough space!

Engine Overhaul

Without knowing the full history of the engine, it was necessary to at least open things up to have a look and verify there aren't any lurking issues. Luckily, there's not much to report. Very little sludge in the pan or even wear marks on the rolling surfaces, it's clear the maintenance schedule was kept up. A normal amount of carbon build-up on the runners, valves, pistons, and piston rings was found and expected on a high mileage engine. Most parts were cleaned using either engine degreaser or wd40 with scotch pads as needed.

Replacement parts:

Timing chain and guides
Piston rings
Main and connecting rod bearings
Valves, valve guides, and valve seals
Hydraulic lash adjusters
Head gasket and all seals
Water pump


https://i.imgur.com/c3IJ0HS.jpg
All valves were replaced as the old ones were too worn.

https://i.imgur.com/6SesLGP.jpg
Valve springs and retainers going back in after replacing the guides and seals.

https://i.imgur.com/SxUT9yM.jpg
Following the factory guide on testing the hydraulic lash adjusters, I found that half of them were no longer functioning. This can happen over time as contaminants in the oil collect inside the adjusters. These were all replaced with new ones.

https://i.imgur.com/aadJdwe.jpg
Cylinder walls were given a light hone just to remove the glaze, then the block was cleaned with engine degreaser and blown dry

https://i.imgur.com/iF4eYHD.jpg
Piston rings getting gapped

https://i.imgur.com/kuJBjHq.jpg
New main bearings

https://i.imgur.com/xrxTM9t.jpg
Crankshaft installed

https://i.imgur.com/adZe1FK.jpg
Pistons dropped in

https://i.imgur.com/0ISSEQ7.jpg
Head gasket in

https://i.imgur.com/NEtsQWH.jpg
Head installed. I didn't get images of the timing chain and guides being installed

https://i.imgur.com/1HqRP1g.jpg
Engine closed back up and accessories/hoses starting to go back on

[remcafee]

good god, you went all in with the engine build

[Compeer]

Fresh and so clean!, clean!

[mitch9521]

Hell yeah, good stuff

[rpster]

Transmission Rebuild

Goals for opening the transmission were to inspect all parts for wear, replace things as needed, and lastly upgrade to a helical LSD and change out 5th gear for lower revs when cruising. Initial inspection revealed mainly normal wear, but the synchronizer rings were all out of spec and needed to be replaced. Additionally, since I have no ABS, a speedometer needs to be added to the transmission.

The factory manual and this YouTube video series by DrivelineMaster were indispensable in doing things correctly: Toyota Manual Transaxle Overhaul (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Br_H1yWuXo&list=PLBj7r2PaWTNhftt7u6QeZYqAwgO4vu8RG)

https://i.imgur.com/jW7Q4IQ.jpg

Replacement parts:

MFactory Racing Helical LSD for C5X transmissions
Toyota differential case bearings
Toyota Drive Seals
QRP 5th Gear Set - 0.725:1
Toyota synchronizer rings
Toyota speedometer sensor
Toyota input shaft bearing and seal


https://i.imgur.com/9owy1r1.jpg
Replacement synchrorings and toyota seal packing

https://i.imgur.com/BsYzdw7.jpg
MFactory Helical LSD with the ring gear and speedometer drive gear transferred from the stock diff. All Toyota diffs should already have the speedometer drive gear installed, even if a speedometer sensor is not installed on the transmission.

https://i.imgur.com/gqEI9pJ.jpg
After fitting the differential case bearings, the diff preload must be measured. This is done by partially assembling the case with the diff in place, torquing down all bolts, then measuring how much force it takes to rotate the differential carrier. Using a 5/16" all thread rod with nuts/bolts and washers and a socket I clamped the carrier then measured the max torque needed to rotate the differential with a digital torque wrench that can go down to 0.3Nm.

https://i.imgur.com/eY2xHEJ.jpg
Preload is set with a washer that is pressed in with one of the case bearings. Various thicknesses are available to adjust the preload.

https://i.imgur.com/kOaAUBL.jpg
LSD installed, with rebuilt input and output shafts.

https://i.imgur.com/buxPVDp.jpg
Transaxle case installed

https://i.imgur.com/Dv0CRQ2.jpg
A new QRP 5th gear set was installed. This drops the 5th gear ratio from 0.815:1 stock to 0.725:1. Engine speed at 70mph drops from 3228rpm down to 2871rpm.

https://i.imgur.com/bjeDuX0.jpg
Closed up and ready to mate with the engine.

[rpster]

Electrical

Using the ECM and engine harness from a 2008 XD made this part a lot easier. Using the factory wiring diagrams for each, I verified that each pin in the 2ZR's ECM from the XD matches the A21 connector on the Yaris body harness, as well as the two connectors in the fuse box, CA1 and CA2. The only pins that didn't match are for the XD's MAF power (CA2 pin 9) and the speedometer (CA2 pins 11-13). Using extra pins from a spare connector set pulled from the junk yard, we can wire this all in OEM style.

The XD's MAF sensor needs +12V when the ignition is on. The wiring in the engine harness already exists, so it's a matter of adding the pin on the fuse box side of CA2 and providing it with power from a switched source. The speedometer mod is needed due to my Yaris not having ABS plus the manual conversion as these pins are missing on the XD engine harness.

https://i.imgur.com/oZYgg3B.jpg
Connector CA2 at the top left of the fuse box when viewed from the front.

https://i.imgur.com/VfFM8u8.jpg
The connectors pins are double locked. In addition to a release tooth next to each pin like in most modular connectors, there is a lock that must be released in order to remove/add pins. After releasing the tooth, pry up the lock using a small flat blade screwdriver and pull the pin/wire out the back.

https://i.imgur.com/szFLbe8.jpg
For the MAF sensor power, I added pin 9 to the fuse box (under) side of the CA2 connector and wired it to the fused side of the EFI2 fuse. Here's the additional pin showing it's connection via tap splice to the EFI2 circuit before it's inserted into the fuse box side of the CA2 connector

https://i.imgur.com/t1vNB5H.jpg
For the speedometer, I added three pins for the speedometer (pins 11-13) to the harness (top) side of CA2 and spliced them to wires leading down to the speedometer sensor added to the transmission. Since my Yaris is non-ABS, this is the factory way of getting a speed signal to the dash.

[Compeer]

Awesome detective work on the loom, thats going to be sweet you will hardly be able to tell its been swapped. That gear box set up is sweet! All the top end now and that lsd tho!

[rpster]

Time to start putting this all back together and see if the past couple months of work were worth it...

Reassembly

https://i.imgur.com/gqU4skh.jpg
New flywheel goes on. ARP bolts to replace the one-time use OEM ones.

https://i.imgur.com/d9Nzgla.jpg
Aisin clutch kit installed

https://i.imgur.com/qdAAwmV.jpg
New throwout bearing came with the clutch kit. Wire wheeled the throwout arm clean and applied super lube at the touch points.

https://i.imgur.com/ehVM4aT.jpg
Engine and transmission mounted back together

https://i.imgur.com/VITsCgc.jpg
Dropped in!

https://i.imgur.com/xFa6QLQ.jpg
The engine harness has an extra bend in it for the XD. No issue as it just tucks away

https://i.imgur.com/Rdm2YlQ.jpg
Heater lines, the fuel line, and vacuum line were from the XD. I cut up the old evap line from the 1NZ to reuse here.

https://i.imgur.com/3fV5pf6.jpg
I used the XD axles, one from the junkyard and another purchased new. Be sure to match the axles to the transmission/differential you're using as the splines are different.

https://i.imgur.com/6nTEcll.jpg
Most of the engine bay has been reinstalled and fluids are going back in.

First Start
To prep, I pulled the EFI and EFI2 fuses to cut the fuel and ignition circuits, then cranked the engine a few times to build oil pressure. Did this until the oil pressure light went off in the dash, then reconnected the fuses to attempt a start.

https://imgur.com/lELT4GH
Super rough running and a few "too rich" codes in the scanner. Not a good first impression.

https://i.imgur.com/KAn3qpx.jpg
After a couple hours of checking and double checking everything related to intake, spark, and fuel, I traced it down to a malfunctioning fuel injector. Pulling the spark plugs was the smoking gun showing the ECM trying to dump way too much fuel to compensate for the bad injector. Lesson learned: don't buy untested/no-name fuel injectors. Installing a fully tested set resolved the issue.

https://i.imgur.com/5v3KoPv.jpg
Next step: drop the transmission again because you installed the clutch disc backwards! Heard and felt a horrible grinding sound when releasing the clutch with the engine running. The metal part of the disc and flywheel bolts were contacting before the friction material. Thankfully it was only slightly and I was able to reuse all the parts. Only lost a day of work tearing apart the engine bay and putting it all back together.

After this, I changed the oil after the first 15 mins of running, and again after the first 50 miles to remove any engine building debris.

https://imgur.com/eAhWFpt
After 150 miles, I lost the clutch suddenly in a parking lot. I must have rebuilt the slave cylinder incorrectly and the piston seal failed. Luckily these are cheap brand new and would just recommend most folks to just get a new one instead of rebuilding.

https://i.imgur.com/w67yHi5.jpg
Since the original A/C system was untouched (only the compressor was unbolted from the 1NZ and zip tied to the side during the swap), I went and got it evacuated by a shop so I could then flush and clean the hardlines to install new hoses, a new compressor, and a new condenser. Filled the system with the correct amount of oil, then pulled a quick vacuum and let it sit for 20 minutes to make sure there were no leaks. Followed this up with an hour long vacuum pull to remove any residual moisture in the system. A single 12oz can of R134a is all the system needs.

Swap complete!
https://imgur.com/4rcbnPH
I'm at 400 miles in now with no issues so far. Next is to gather documentation to get the swap approved by a BAR referee.

[mitch9521]

Great work! I wonder if the Scion xD harness will play nice with a 3rd gen, never been able to get a straight answer on that. Mechanically the two generations are nearly identical but my worry is that the older Scion ECU won't play nice with the gen 3 body harness and I'd have to run some sort of piggyback setup for the engine side or standalone.

Also an acceleration video would be great. See how she gets down :burnrubber:

Also also, what transmission did you end up using? Yaris C50 or xD C50?

[rpster]

Thanks! If you can get your hands on the wiring diagram for the 3rd gen, I can help answer that question. The biggest hurdle would be the immobilizer, which was most likely present on the 3rd gen and not on the scion. All other pins on the harnesses should match up.

I’ll drop a vid as soon as I can. I’m trying to be good and not do any WOT pulls until I hit 500 miles since the engine was rebuilt. Gotta be nice to the piston rings.

Trans is the XD C50

[mitch9521]

Thanks! If you can get your hands on the wiring diagram for the 3rd gen, I can help answer that question. The biggest hurdle would be the immobilizer, which was most likely present on the 3rd gen and not on the scion. All other pins on the harnesses should match up.

I’ll drop a vid as soon as I can. I’m trying to be good and not do any WOT pulls until I hit 500 miles since the engine was rebuilt. Gotta be nice to the piston rings.

Trans is the XD C50

From what I gathered, all of the xDs in the Canadian market had immobilizers, I know my ECU definitely does since it was pulled from a 2011 or 2012. Immobilizer shouldn't be a huge deal, I have one of the keys for the Scion ECU(definitely didn't pocket it from the upull :laugh:) so if I have to tape the transponder to the barrel to get it to start until I can marry the Yaris keys to it, then so be it.

[Neinris]

DAMN! I'm jelly... you even did the 5th gear swap that I had planned on doing. Where'd you get them headlights!!! :drool: :drool: :drool:

[mitch9521]

DAMN! I'm jelly... you even did the 5th gear swap that I had planned on doing. Where'd you get them headlights!!! :drool: :drool: :drool:

They look like projector retrofitted OEM lights.

[Neinris]

They look like projector retrofitted OEM lights.

Ah! I see... I'll I've yet to attempt to do this. One more thing to add to my project.

[rpster]

Yup! Morimoto M LED 2.0 projectors in the stock housing. Wanted that OEM+ look

[remcafee]

was the differential preload in spec? or did you have to change out the shim? im curious as to how to remove the bearings in the case

[rpster]

was the differential preload in spec? or did you have to change out the shim? im curious as to how to remove the bearings in the case

I didn't bother to measure the preload on the old bearings prior to teardown since I knew I would be replacing the differential bearings anyways. I went from the "DD" shim that was previously installed to an "EE" and got my preload on the high range of spec for new bearings (0.78 to 1.57 Nm)

Unless you have a very large press, I used a deadblow with an appropriately sized socket to push the old bearings out.

[remcafee]

gotcha gotcha, did you also fp the input shaft bearing and that front seal?

[rpster]

gotcha gotcha, did you also fp the input shaft bearing and that front seal?

Yup, these were replaced along with all the other external seals

[rpster]

BAR Referee - California Smog Certification

To legally drive the car and register it in California, the engine change must be certified by the Bureau of Automotive Repair or BAR. This is a two part process which certifies that the engine change meets all emissions requirements.

The first part involves checking that all documentation is correct and that the car has been prepared per the engine change guidelines. The second part involves a physical inspection of the engine change by a BAR referee and smog check.

Part One - Phone Interview

After scheduling a phone appointment with the BAR office, a BAR rep will call for a 50 minute interview to discuss the engine change. They will confirm that you understand the guidelines (https://www.bar.ca.gov/consumer/smog-check-program/engine-changes) and ask if you have any questions about the process. They will also ask you to email the following details:

Picture of the catalytic converters in their location
Picture of the O2 sensors and their location
Engine bay shots to show hose and vacuum connections
Photos of the EVAP system components and their location
Shots of a scanner tool showing no trouble codes and OBD monitors are complete/ready
Screenshots of a scanner tool -or- dealer invoice showing the CAL ID and CAL CVN*
Donor VIN number
Your most recent registration
Proof of emissions certification for both donor and recipient vehicles


*Most off the shelf scan tools can produce this (usually under a vehicle info screen or similar), however if you do take it to a shop you will need to explain what you need. This step confirms the ECM has not been tampered with and the programming matches a smog legal one.

Upon confirmation of the above, the BAR rep will have you contact the BAR office again to schedule your in-person inspection.

Part Two - In-person Inspection
Once the inspection is scheduled, you'll receive details on what BAR Referee location to go to and what you'll need. Generally, they will ask you to arrive a few minutes early. They will then take your car in to inspect the engine change and also perform a rolling road smog check. The process can take up to two hours, so be prepared with plenty of fuel, oil, and coolant. They do charge for the smog check ($8.25 in 2023).

Assuming everything was followed correctly and the car blows clean an engine change sticker will be applied to the car by the BAR referee, either in the engine bay or door jamb.

https://img.imgur.com/RtzftQX.jpg

And that's it! The car can now be registered and driven legally on California streets.

[mitch9521]

California is whack.

In Alberta its like: "oh you have an car and it has insurance? its roadworthy"

[remcafee]

how do you like the helical limited slip diff?

[rpster]

how do you like the helical limited slip diff?

Worth every penny. The car was already nimble, but feeling it pull you through corners under power is what sold me.

[remcafee]

Worth every penny. The car was already nimble, but feeling it pull you through corners under power is what sold me.

i bought a quaife diff, going to try it, its basically a helical style but a little different operating principle, i have had a really bad clunk with the cusco 1.5 diff and it snapped my passenger axle in half from the vibration and shock it was outputting, i got a whole another trans i pulled apart and serviced with new oem seals and changed out 2nd and 3rd gear synchros and hubs as they were really boogered up looking. all the bearings looked basically like new with no scratches or scoring at all so im gonna reuse them

[rpster]

i bought a quaife diff, going to try it, its basically a helical style but a little different operating principle, i have had a really bad clunk with the cusco 1.5 diff and it snapped my passenger axle in half from the vibration and shock it was outputting, i got a whole another trans i pulled apart and serviced with new oem seals and changed out 2nd and 3rd gear synchros and hubs as they were really boogered up looking. all the bearings looked basically like new with no scratches or scoring at all so im gonna reuse them

The MFactory LSD I installed is more/less the same design as the Quaife and TRD helicals (plus it was on sale). It's a very smooth transition between "locked" and unlocked states, so very good for daily use. We've had more rain around here lately and have been loving the two wheel peels in 1st :thumbup: