oil and oil filter question..

[marcus]

anyone using 0-20 full synthetic..what is your change interval

and also oil filter question: can i change it without losing oil ..im thinking of using 0-20 long interval change it once a year but change my oil filter 2x a year...would it drip oil if i take the oil filter out with oil in the engine??????anyone!! i need the gods for this maybe....:iono:

[blacksan]

We (family) use full synthetic in heavy equipment and change at hour intervals vs miles. Our standard practice is regular filter swap and top off a few times before full oil change. The oil will make the distance, but even the highest quality filters start to break down there element material due to extreme heat. I would (and do) filter swap on my vehicles at regular intervals and just stretch out the full oil change to 15K.

[jlift]

anyone using 0-20 full synthetic..what is your change interval

and also oil filter question: can i change it without losing oil ..im thinking of using 0-20 long interval change it once a year but change my oil filter 2x a year...would it drip oil if i take the oil filter out with oil in the engine??????anyone!! i need the gods for this maybe....:iono:

Yes, it will drip, but the filter is in a very good access place so if you have a pan or bucket underneath, you won't lose that much. :headbang:

[marcus]

coool.. thanks guys..!! appreciate it!!

[blacksan]

The Yaris filter is soooo tiny you will only need a little to top off after the filter swap.

[tekmoe]

im runnin amsoil 5w20. i put 3k on the original oil before swapping it out with the amsoil. did 6k on the amsoil and swapped it just a couple of weeks ago. ill probably go 12k on this oil and change the filter at 6k just to be safe.

[marcus]

cool.. im thinkin of putting 0w-20 but it seems like its a hard find..havent seen 0w-20 yet.. changing my own oil and keep receipt for warranty purposes.

[Meteorite Man]

Seeing that the oil filter is almost vertical, a good idea if you're just spinnin' filters is to fill up the filter with oil first. Shake it, bang it, wiggle it to get all the air out, then add a few more drops for a final top off and then spin it on. That way you don't have a momentary dry start. Have always done this.

When I had my Dodge P/u with the V-10, The filter was perfectly mounted at the front of the motor staright up and down. I would fill it with "Mystery Oil" . Would always substitute 1 quart of oil for the M/M....Never had a cold knock and the engine ran so smooth.

Just a 2 cent reply,

Good luck,

Chuck

[Nigal]

How far can you go on the 0W20 between changes? I'm using Mobil 1 now but will be switching to Royal Purple next change. I was just planning on doing it every 5,000 like normal because I put so many miles on the car in a month.

[marcus]

synthetics extends ur oil change intervals....benz change interval is every year or 15000 kms..

[YarisTom73]

Not to sound cocky or whatever, but a Yaris isn't a Benz...I change the cat water about every other day. Maybe my car oil should be changed too...:laugh:

[marcus]

of sorry didnt mean to confuse you..but think about if benz c230 kompressor supercahrge got bigger engine using synthetic oil and changing it once per year....and our yaris got 1.5 l engine...wouldnt that make the oil last longer on ours then..TADA!!! :thumbsup:


Not to sound cocky or whatever, but a Yaris isn't a Benz...I change the cat water about every other day. Maybe my car oil should be changed too...:laugh:

[Astroman]

im runnin amsoil 5w20. i put 3k on the original oil before swapping it out with the amsoil. did 6k on the amsoil and swapped it just a couple of weeks ago. ill probably go 12k on this oil and change the filter at 6k just to be safe.

I just found out a co-worker of mine's uncle sells amsoil, so I bought 4 quarts of oil from him (5w-20). The bottle said 7500 miles for oil change, is it safe to go further? And do I need amsoil filters or would I be fine with the mobile filters (heard they have a 98-99% efficency rating, better than the K&N I'm using right now.)

[schecksportpak]

As of this weekend 7/01/07, I installed a dual filter relocation kit on mine,this allows me to run 2 larger filters(fram PH8a's)and increase my oil capacity to 5.5 quarts, I now have the option of going approx. 6-8k miles between changes,I have installed kits on previous vehicles that I"ve owned with great results,my last vehicle a '96 toyota tacoma V6,at 6k miles my oil was still gold,as for the Yaris I would still recommend sticking with the 5w30 oil it is best,I use mobil synthetic blend.There is no listing for this application I had to be creative on the kit such as ordering it as a different motor,toyota corolla 07 1.8L,all you really need to know is the thread size of stock filter housing(3/4 x 16),kit comes with all you need(summit part # TRD-1213)except2 Fram PH8a filters and alternate fittings(1/2"x1/2" brass street 90 degree fitting,1/2"x1/2" brass reg. 90 degree,1/2"x1.5" brass nipple @ Lowes hardware)the filter mounting bracket can be bolted on front sheet metal,pass. side,between rad. tank and A/C hose just infront of alt.,it's tight but doable,use driv side inlet/outlet on filter housing block off other end(universal application)run hoses down to filter adapter plate which screws right onto filter housing,this is where you put the 2 brass alternat fittings to be able to hook up to the supplied hoses,this has to be done so you can adapt to the filter plate at a 90 degree angle otherwise the supplied hoses would have to go in staright on and hoses are not log enough and they would hang down and be exposed to lower chassis debre,hope this info helps.:burnrubber:

[sherryberry]

OK... I have a question and I probably sound stupid for asking but anyway, is it better to change the filter every 3 months as always or is it better/about the same/worse to use the filters that say it'll last a year .. (forgot the mileage)? Reason I ask is I had used amsoil filter and oil and since it said however many miles, i didn't change it for a bit and my dad got really mad at me and said you have to change every 3 months, despite what the filter is. Thanks

[Meteorite Man]

It all sounded good till you mentioned Fram filters. That has to be, by opinion, the worse you could get. Better off with a roll of toilet paper (and I have seen those on diesel engines). Wix is a pretty good filter-NAPA GOLD is the same, made by Wix and is a couple of nickels cheaper, says Wix right on the box).

It would of been better if you could of went lower with the filters to keep the oil cooler. The factory mount is low, out of the way and grabbing air from under the car. If I read yours correctly it is mounted mid-way up the radiator support on the inner fender well. Lots of undispursed heat there.

Ok, good luck to ya. Sounds like it will be a good mod. Hopefully the oil pump can keep up and the filters have anti-drain back valves. After sitting overnite / extended period of time, the oil pan will have close to 6 quarts in it. Well not in it. It will be stuffed full and all the excess will have to go somewhere else. That's alot of COLD oil to push first thing in the morning.

Have fun,

Chuck

[marcus]

OK... I have a question and I probably sound stupid for asking but anyway, is it better to change the filter every 3 months as always or is it better/about the same/worse to use the filters that say it'll last a year .. (forgot the mileage)? Reason I ask is I had used amsoil filter and oil and since it said however many miles, i didn't change it for a bit and my dad got really mad at me and said you have to change every 3 months, despite what the filter is. Thanks

not on our yaris oil change interval is every 8000km/6 months and thats regular oil so im assuming synthetics will last almost twice as long..no point of going synthetic if you gonna change it every 6 month/8000 km anyways.. just a waste of ur money..id say I personally will go synthetic only to extend change intervals " oil breakdown period..- withstand higher temperature as well...but im sure others got different opinion..

[YarisTom73]

of sorry didnt mean to confuse you..but think about if benz c230 kompressor supercahrge got bigger engine using synthetic oil and changing it once per year....and our yaris got 1.5 l engine...wouldnt that make the oil last longer on ours then..TADA!!! :thumbsup:
All I meant was that the Benz was a far more expensive, higher compression, and tighter tolerance design, therefore, it would make sense that the engine was built to handle those changes. The Yaris is just our little grocery-getter, and should be maintained and more frequent intervals. I'm probably foolish to think that, and you're probably right: I've more than likely been tossing my cash senselessly. But, it helps me sleep better at nite...:laugh: :thumbsup:

[marcus]

All I meant was that the Benz was a far more expensive, higher compression, and tighter tolerance design, therefore, it would make sense that the engine was built to handle those changes. The Yaris is just our little grocery-getter, and should be maintained and more frequent intervals. I'm probably foolish to think that, and you're probably right: I've more than likely been tossing my cash senselessly. But, it helps me sleep better at nite...:laugh: :thumbsup:

i kinna see what you mean..i still say theyre both made of metal parts..but hey ill give you this one...:thumbup:

[Farenheit]

Well i used Mobil 1 0w-40w in my recent service.
Just me 2pence worth :)

FH

[keesue]

I had the opportunity to attend a lab session on lubrication. The seminar talked about oil change intervals, mineral versus synthetic and the reasons for and the benefits of synthetics. The basis for the discussion centered around oil analysis where samples of oil at various intervals of service were put through a spectrum analyzer to determine the content of the oil: metal, mineral and suspension deposits.

The bottom line was that mineral and synthetics both accomplished the same thing: lubrication, cooling and particulate suspension. In the very lowest and extreme highest temperatures, synthetics had the most stability in pour point and temperature. This deficit narrowed with the lower weight mineral oils. In the 'normal' operating temperature range that a typical engine 'sees' (not towing in exteme heat or operating in sub-zero temperatures), the two were fairly close comparing the best of mineral and synthetics. As far as drain intervals were concerened, the synthetics generally had the advantage. They tended to remain stable over a longer period of time with the benefits of this. These oils could be expressly formulated for this purpose. With respect to lubricity, the synthetics got the nod. Note: The American Petroleum Institute (API) has this data on file. They test each brand of oil in various ways for flow, cooling and longevity. This is a good source for drain interval recommendations for a specific type of oil.

The second (and some would argue the most) important aspect of all of this is the filter. It is the particulate suspension in oil that eventually 'wears' away at the metal. After all, metal wears metal. Even carbon deposits from the combustion process in the oil will 'wear' metal. Water, which is a natural by-product of heating and cooling a hydrocarbon molecule (the release of a hydrogen atom which joins with two oxygen atoms) compromises lubricity. This is mitigated with sustained temperatures as seen in highway usage versus stop-n-go.

Generally, oil filters 10 microns in the best and gets progressively higher in the lessor quality filters so that oil can flow under cold pressures. The lower the micron filtration capability the faster they tend to get 'plugged'; hence the notion of changing the better filters in between extended oil changes. The best filtration systems filter down to sub microns. These are bypass or 'sampling' filters. They are an adjunct to the regular filter as they will not sustain full oil pressures. Using this type of configuration, with regular oil analysis, one can use the same oil indefinetely. Amsoil is a big proponent of this system. The downside is hardware, mounting and plumbing as well as the cost of oil analysis. In big rig fleet situations, this is very cost effective.

Toyota was conservative (as most companies are) in their oil change interval recommendation. They assume some will be late and leave a margin of error. As one person noted, I personally change my oil at 5K to satisfy the warranty requirement. Toyota can summarily deny a claim if this interval is not adhered. An oil analysis could challenge this position in court but the dealership generally doesn't keep a sample for you to do so. :evil:

Just my two-cents (plus the cost of repairs versus the cost of oil). :thumbup:

[nsmitchell]

WOW! :eek:

Great info! Where was this lab session! I would eat that up with a spoon! I would friggin love to attend something like that!

I just changed my oil with Mobil-1 5W-30 from Wallyworld! 5 qts for only $20.00!

My filter was a Napa Gold (Wix). I attach a couple of hard drive magnets to the outside of the filter, hopefully capturing some of that suspended metal. I think I'm going to addd more magnets once I tear apart some more hard drives.:biggrin: It can't hurt is my motto.

I have considered an Amsoil ByPass system. Pricey and takes some room under the hood. I'm also afraid of leaks. I also actually enjoy changing my oil every 5K miles.

My little Yaris is getting smoother by the day.

[Farenheit]

My little Yaris is getting smoother by the day.

Where do you drive to on a daily basis?? lol... :laugh:

[keesue]

WOW! :eek:

Great info! Where was this lab session! I would eat that up with a spoon! I would friggin love to attend something like that!

I just changed my oil with Mobil-1 5W-30 from Wallyworld! 5 qts for only $20.00!

My filter was a Napa Gold (Wix). I attach a couple of hard drive magnets to the outside of the filter, hopefully capturing some of that suspended metal. I think I'm going to addd more magnets once I tear apart some more hard drives.:biggrin: It can't hurt is my motto.

I have considered an Amsoil ByPass system. Pricey and takes some room under the hood. I'm also afraid of leaks. I also actually enjoy changing my oil every 5K miles.

My little Yaris is getting smoother by the day.

Thanks! I attended this some years ago. In this seminar, engines were torn down and a micrometer was used to measure loss against specifcation. I was actually astounded by what I saw. I can share that if you are interested.

I agree on the bypass system. I had one as an experiment but chose not to use it in any of my other vehicles due to the mounting, plumbing and added complexity. The magnets are a good idea as cheap insurance.

[YarisTom73]

:w00t: Thanks for the info; that's what is often missing on forums such as this: good hard solid facts, as opposed to "my brother Jake tried this...". Keep up the good postings! :biggrin:

[keesue]

:w00t: Thanks for the info; that's what is often missing on forums such as this: good hard solid facts, as opposed to "my brother Jake tried this...". Keep up the good postings! :biggrin:

Hey, thanks for saying that. I often marvel at the chances people take with an investment and at the risk of this sounding like a lecture, I thought it might be helpful to provide this input. I hope the readers find it of some value.

I have had project cars where I tested products, theories and new ideas. Just like the dyno which never lies, once I got exposed to oil analysis, all the snake oil theories went right out the window. When you tear an engine down and use a micrometer, it is the true test of how well oil is performing. When you have oil analysis performed, you know what's what without tearing it down. This is the basis for Toyota's oil change recommendation. Oil analysis.

In truth, oil 'can' last beyond 5K. This is a fact. The thing is, there is a point where the protection begins to wane and the engine wear begins to accelerate. One has no way of knowing where this point is without the benefit of a an oil analysis and a tear down to measure wear. The engine doesn't feel as tight as it did over time: 'Oh, well, its getting old'. Without an oil analysis, one is simply guessing. You can't see what oil is doing.

The new extended drain interval oils will extend the drain interval. The trade-off is the warranty. Once past 5K, the dealer and Toyota can deny a warranty claim. For that reason, I have been unwilling to gamble with the investment. I have my personal preferences in oil and spend my money for them, but I stick to the warranty requirement. Cheap insurance - no argument.

The micrometer readings of camshafts, valve guides, cylinder walls and bearings all measured the lowest with oil that was changed at the point where the oil could no longer handle (suspend) the combustion by-product, carbon, or the saturation point of water contamination from stop and go driving and the filter's inability to remove deposits - be it from cheap/poor design or failure over its service life. It is noteworthy, that synthetics are superior in every index; however, mineral oil, changed religiously at regular intervals, was more than adequate.

The machining (CNC) processes used in today's engine builds yield consistency in tolerances unheard of in assembly-line/human-built engines of the past. In fact, when one said they had their engine 'blue-printed', it was a labor intensive machining process to bring the engine to true specification to compensate for assembly line tolerances and tooling. Indeed, when one got an engine built right after the tooling was changed, that engine was 'tighter' and produced more hp. The engines built at the end of the tooling cycle simply wore themselves out. Add the wear particles from this process to the oil and not change it, and it is a recipe for disaster. The engine literally becomes a wear factory.

This is all now mitigated by computers. The engine in the Yaris is blue-printed by default. Moving parts are balanced and machined to specification. A good mineral oil will work just fine at a cheaper cost for those on a budget. Synthetics can yield a bit better mpg all things being equal but at a higher cost (leaving ROI out of the analysis).

Personally, I use the best oil to protect the investment and change it at the warranty-dictated interval. I Hope this is helpful.

[Ogredude]

Just curious on how people can use 0w20 oil??
I have read the TSB about our engines able to use 5w20, but the 0w20 is only for the Hybrid version of our engines. can anyone correct me?
I am an Amsoil user myself, and see that Amsoils 0w20 oil replaces their 5w20 - which gets even more confusing.
maybe theirs barley a difference, but with the way I drive, i would never go less than 5w30

[marcus]

5w-20 to 0w-20 is not much of a difference although thinner gives you better gas mileage.. i dont think itll hurt the engine its still oil/lubricant. its the viscosity max temp where the oil breaks down is what you need to look at..going synthetic gives you higher oilbreak down temperature.. im sure other will have diff opinion..