electric water pump help!

[mandriu]

Well I decided on the Meziere wp136. it's "universal". The problem is that I don't know which direction the coolant flows. From the lower hose to engine or from engine to lower hose. I will be putting it in this weekend, but don't know which direction.

I appreciate any help.

[cdydjded]

:confused: :confused: Why would you spend you $$$ on that?:confused: :confused:

[Shijima]

Im assuming so he has one less thing for the engine to move.

[joey1320]

hot coolant goes thru the thermostat into the radiator. so if the lower hose has the thermostat(?) then is from the hose to the engine. if its on the top hose then from the engine to the hose.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system2.htm

and why are you doing this again? to free up some horsepower and better fuel economy???

[mandriu]

joey1320

I was kind of thinking that but didn't want to dive in.

So far I have about $230.00 invested in the project. There are a number of Electric water pumps. all over $170 I really think that taking the water pump off of the belt will free up 1-5 whp. btw, that is about the price of a good cai. The only real concern i have now is that there will be about 1" of clearance on all sides.

[churp]

Usually the hot coolant from the engine always goes to the top of the radiator....this is because the hottest coolant stays in the top of the radiator(hot liquid lighter than cold), as it cools the liquid sinks to the bottom of the radiator and returns to the engine. Can't recall seeing it any other way.

[mandriu]

The Thermostat is on the lower hose. per CO-17 yaris manual here at yarisworld. That is what is confusing me. I guess on saturday after About one beer I will remove the upper hose at the radiator and crank the engine to see which side spews. then adjust accordingly

[eTiMaGo]

The Thermostat is on the lower hose. per CO-17 yaris manual here at yarisworld. That is what is confusing me. I guess on saturday after About one beer I will remove the upper hose at the radiator and crank the engine to see which side spews. then adjust accordingly

Yeah that's what I see from the manual too, the inlet to the pump is there, so you should just trace the hose to see where it's connected to...

[joey1320]

good luck with the project. keep us updated.

[03Z33]

I'd consider running some kind of warning light into the cabin to let you know when the pump is actually running, just in case it stops working for any reason.

[PetersRedYaris]

Every car I have ever worked on dumps hot coolant out the top hose and pulls cooled coolant in through the bottom hose. I guarantee it is the same on the Yaris... Toyota puts the thermostat on the engine side of the lower hose on many engines, but they still flow the same direction.

[mandriu]

that's a good idea about the warning,Maybe some kind of L.E.D. on the circuit. I am pretty confident that the pump will function fine. The only reason I say this is that the pump company is known in the Hot rod market to work.

[WRBlue]

So far I have about $230.00 invested in the project. There are a number of Electric water pumps. all over $170 I really think that taking the water pump off of the belt will free up 1-5 whp. btw, that is about the price of a good cai.

Then theres the cavatation at high rpms with a belt driven pump. An electrically driven water pump will always cool more evenly than a belt driven pump. A cooler engine performs better than a hot engine (but a hot engine is more efficient with fuel use).

What are you doing about the OEM pump?

As for warning lights... You already have one, the H2O gauge ;)

[AlphaFox]

get a scanguage, it will show you actual water temps. cool to watch!

[mandriu]

I don't have the scanguage, but i have an obd2 that reads all the good stuff.

This is a more accurate account of expenses so far..

Water pump 186.50
2 x hose fittings 15.99
1 belt 377k4 8.99 (measured with string)
relay mr44 5.99
hose clamps 1.99
wire and ends 10.00

total 245.00 +-change

I will leave the OEM pump in place for now. I will remove the pulley. Later I will purchase a new gasket for a pattern and a sheet of 1/4" aluminum. Then Dremel and drill a cover.

[jdium]

I will leave the OEM pump in place for now. I will remove the pulley. Later I will purchase a new gasket for a pattern and a sheet of 1/4" aluminum. Then Dremel and drill a cover.

This is a very interesting mod, actually seems worthwhile. As for the blockoff plate, maybe it could be used as your mounting point for the electric pump? Also, a good shop (like the 1 I work at) could make your plate for you very easily. If you have the patience and knowledge to create a good CAM file for what you need, a good sheetmetal shop could pop one out laser cut in minutes...maybe even to stuff like tap and countersink for you...just an idea. And once the hard part is done, you can maybe make some money selling them...

[Jerkratt]

i would be interested in this water pump... i dont know if u mentioned the company.. and what type

EDIT: nm first post lol disregard that

[AlphaFox]

A dyno before and after would be good, to see if it actually does anything

[xxcanuckxx]

is he still under his car? this sounds like a good idea...

[mandriu]

Ok I put the pump in today. As I suspected I had a couple of minor issues. First the belt was too short. So I will try a 425k4 tomorrow. I cut the original radiator hose and inserted the pump pulling water away from the engine. I piggypacked a relay switch to a green wire in the under hood fuse block. It is only on when the key is in the run position.

Problem number one. The thermostat works too well. Water will not go past it. This causes the radiator hose to collapse while engine is cold. I will cut 1/4" weep hole in the thermostat to allow some constant flow.(I am thinking about getting an electric thermostat that will control the pump.)

For now the belt is back on and the pump is not impeding flow so the obd2 reads around 180

I wish I had better news. Thank you for your attention.

[PetersRedYaris]

Why would you install a pump to pull water away from the engine??? Is it in the top hose? You could have avoided the collapsed hose if you installed it in the lower hose pushing water INTO the engine.

Your electric thermostat sound like a good idea if you want this set-up to work properly. Good luck.

[churp]

Why would you install a pump to pull water away from the engine??? Is it in the top hose? You could have avoided the collapsed hose if you installed it in the lower hose pushing water INTO the engine.

Your electric thermostat sound like a good idea if you want this set-up to work properly. Good luck.

Unless the pump puts out more pressure than the radiator cap is rated at you had air in the system (downstream of the pump)....liquid doesn't compress. Once the thermostat opens it 'may' purge itself naturally, and you'd be okay. But I agree that the lower hose may be better.

Did you remove the water pump so it doesn't restrict the flow?

Edit: Sorry, see you will be removing it later. Hope it doesn't restrict too much, or you have another vehicle until you're done!

[mandriu]

It's like with a straw. If you suck too hard the straw collapses. The thermostat is literally water tight. I initially removed the upper radiator hose at the filler tube and started the engine there was no flow. Since the cooling system was not pressurized I did not get any flow. I was amazed. I have it set pulling away because the thermostat is down there. Every diagram i have seen has the water leaving the engine at the thermostat

I am still not sure if the water leaves the engine at the thermostat. Anybody Know for sure?

[churp]

It's like with a straw. If you suck too hard the straw collapses. The thermostat is literally water tight. I initially removed the upper radiator hose at the filler tube and started the engine there was no flow. Since the cooling system was not pressurized I did not get any flow. I was amazed. I have it set pulling away because the thermostat is down there. Every diagram i have seen has the water leaving the engine at the thermostat

I am still not sure if the water leaves the engine at the thermostat. Anybody Know for sure?

You get flow when the themostat is open, whether it's pressurized or not! To check the flow open the radiator cap, start the engine, and when it warms up you will see which direction it is going...you don't want to remove the radiator hose to see the direction. Believe me water flows into the top of the radiator. I will go out to the garage and verify at 1:30 in the morning for you....be right back.

[churp]

After many minutes the top hose get very hot to the touch at the radiator(thermostat opening allowing flow), then after a couple minutes the warm coolant warms the lower hose (finally arrives there). The coolant flows into the top of the radiator....absolutely. Every radiator has the heated coolant flowing into the top...no matter where the thermostat is.

[mandriu]

churp, I am glad that I checked here this morning, before I warm up that engine I will flip the pump the other way. I will go get the new belt, and maybe i will have new news, or similar problems giong the other way. And I will try to take a pic. Maybe this afternoon.

[mandriu]

Just a head's up. I have the pump hooked up. I had to take the thermostat out. The OEM pump circulates water through the block while the thermostat is closed. So I would not recommend the current set up to daily drivers.

The coolant temp runs between 150 and 170 degrees. so it is no constant with this set up.

My next plan is to get an oem wp gasket and try to make a plate that I can mount a wp118 from an LT1 engine to.

[AlphaFox]

cool, any power gains? thats what its for in the long run, right?

[mandriu]

It definately feels better on acceleration. I wish I knew where a dyno was here. Closest one I can find is Bowling Green It is so easy to throw the stock belt back on that I could do before and after runs.

[AlphaFox]

Id love to see the #'s, Glad it has more powa!

[curik]

mandriu, what sort of belt did you use? Are you running stock crank pulley?

[Sir A.Y. Atoyot]

Just remember that the thermostat housing is also called the water outlet. This immediately tells you which way the coolant flows.

Electric water pump? That's about the silliest waste of money I've encountered on this site, and there are plenty! No offense.:laugh:

[severous01]

every thermostat produced after about 1970 has a weep hole in it. it prevents thermal shock. idk where you got your tstat from, but i'd put an aftermarket in it. one with a hole.

i'd love to see this lt1 adapter...i have 2 laying around, and an extra CSR ewp....so........if it's not too much to modify i'll have a cheap waterpump...yay. the ltx is a direct swap, easy to fix, cheap ewp mod. you take out the 8 bolts holding the pulley to the pump housing, replace it with the ewp and new gaskets (provided with csr, dunno bout mezerie), put on some teflon/loc-tite and top off with coolant... easy. about 2 hours worth.

either way, i havent looked at the yaris wp, and if it's one solid unit, or it has a separate bearing/pulley/impeller. this could be really easy if it's separate.

[cali yaris]

Electric water pump? That's about the silliest waste of money I've encountered on this site, and there are plenty! No offense.

Offense taken. Works great for me.

[severous01]

speaking of.....how'd you do your pump cali? did you do something similar as here or what? if you can talk CSR or mezerie into a yaris/corolla/camry/tacoma pump i'd be interested.

[curik]

mandriu, i have bought the EWP kit and just wondering if the 425k4 belt fits (with WP pulley removed). The kit basically contains the EWP and electronic controller with other bits and pieces. I'm hoping to have a similar setup like yours..

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a400/curik/IMG_0309.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a400/curik/IMG_0310.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a400/curik/IMG_0311.jpg

[basslover911]

Why don't you make this A LOT easier on yourself ....

Simply add an electric motor on the stock water pump? That way you don't need to change anything and you already know which way the pump is spinning? (by looking at it when the belt is on)

why wouldn't you do this instead of changing everything?

[severous01]

because the stock pump doesnt come apart like that. my ltx camaro is that way, the impeller has 6 or 8 small bolts that hold it on, and the electric simply bolts onto stock housing.

but then again, this is the design of chevy, not toyota. and as far as i know, toyota isn't too happy about putting non-yota parts on their cars. the aftermarket seems to be lacking in anything that's performance related. anything program, internal engine,

timing, cooling, and suspension (other than easy stuff like springs/shocks). i know it's not apples and apples, but the camaro i have is completely not stock short of block and body pannels. everything else is tube steel, cf or fiberglass...and definitely 90% aftermarket. i have tubular upper and lower control arms, custom shocks, vette brakes, tubular engine cradle, aluminum rear lower control arms and panhard rod, tubular torque arm, aftermarket axle, lexan and fiberglass hatch, CF interior panels and dash, fiber hood, hella 90mm projector headlights, even the engine is aftermarket (except the block itself).

the only thing i can think of that's not stock on my car is the chassis and carpet, seats, trans case, engine block (just the block) ECM and wiring, tail lights, doors, windows and windshield...and i think that's it.

any way, sorry to go off tangent.

[basslover911]

^It doesn't matter at all. You can 1) remove the pulley and attach it directly or 2) put a pulley on a motor and run it with a belt so you dont even have to modify the stock pump AND you can place the motor anywhere as long as its on the same plane as the water pump (obviously, because of the belts connecting both).

I just thought it would be SO much easier. Also remove the thermostat completely, and just run a potentiometer to the electric motor to make it spin faster with rising temps and VERY slow at cold temps (it cant be stopped completely though, or hot spots would occur in the engine)

[curik]

- already have a digital WP controller so regulating the WP isnt a problem.
- I'm planning to get rid of the impeller from the stock WP and bypass the WP pulley with a shorter belt.
- I'm asking mandriu which also bypassed the WP with a shorter belt whether his belt fits.

Hopefully everything goes according to plan and I will post the updates :)