View Full Version : More power, with a push of a button??
leasaunce
08-06-2007, 10:24 AM
Hi all,
is there a piggyback that have 2 settings like...Normal or Sport mode? (Just like the "M" button on the BMW M5 n M6, it gives more power).
any one can show me a piggyback that has this feature???:iono:
Turbo&Auto
08-06-2007, 10:27 AM
Not going to happen.....
Nitrous button maybe LOL!
eTiMaGo
08-06-2007, 10:30 AM
there doesn't seem to be anything as "simple", especially not for our cars. Like T&A said, nitrous button would be the closest :biggrin: Or if you have a turbo, using a scramble boost button to temporarily raise the maximum boost...
Yaris Revenge
08-06-2007, 10:47 AM
I've always wondered why someone didn't offer an aftermarket ECU that did this... 2 or 3 different settings available with the flip of a switch. It couldn't be that hard to make, could it???
I've seen a company that sells that MAF resistor mod that had a switch for different settings, but you had to turn the car off before you flipped the switch or it would throw a CEL.
~YR
eTiMaGo
08-06-2007, 10:55 AM
I've always wondered why someone didn't offer an aftermarket ECU that did this... 2 or 3 different settings available with the flip of a switch. It couldn't be that hard to make, could it???
I've seen a company that sells that MAF resistor mod that had a switch for different settings, but you had to turn the car off before you flipped the switch or it would throw a CEL.
~YR
heh.. that's useful...
"oh crap this guy's coming up fast behind me flashing his lights I think he wants to race, let me stop here in the middle of the highway so I can switch to high power mode!!!"
:laugh:
Actualy they can be made so that the switch is seamless. My other car is a Suzuki Swift and there is an upgrade made like this...its actualy two seperate chips (one being the OEM the other being the upgraded) mounted on a board with a switch that lets you seamlessly cross over. Its great for emissions testing so that you use the factory program to pass or if the vehicle is ever serviced it keeps thing like the rev limiter stock so that people don't bash the crap out of the car bouncing off of 10krpm shifts. You can switch it over on the highway while driving without the car ever losing a beat...not sure why you would want to though:iono:
Is there even an aftermarket chip made for the Yaris? I know there are a few tuners that can dyno a car and burn a chip. Might be the only way. Power wise I can't see a chip alone on these cars making any kind of appreciable difference in power unless its made to work with upgraded parts like cams and such.
bearda
08-06-2007, 11:48 AM
m has it dead on, it's hard enough to find a chip that actually adds enough power to make a difference right now. The M5 works by restricting the engine whenever that button isn't pressed in the interests of fuel economy. There isn't that much power to spare on the Yaris....
Turbo&Auto
08-06-2007, 02:05 PM
I believe unichip has SOMETHING like this more or less power switch but I could be wrong. NOS would be the real fun switch IMO :)
Black Yaris
08-06-2007, 02:19 PM
NOS is a definate option... but everything you would need to do it properly on our vehicles is pricey
Vic-2NZFE
08-06-2007, 04:32 PM
heh.. that's useful...
"oh crap this guy's coming up fast behind me flashing his lights I think he wants to race, let me stop here in the middle of the highway so I can switch to high power mode!!!"
:laugh:
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Hey dude use the pannic button (NOS)
jdium
08-06-2007, 05:15 PM
People need to realize that there isn't much more power in these cars as they come off the lot. The manufacturer wouldn't leave too much on the table in a sector where people are deciding on a Fit over a Yaris because of it's 109 hp compared to 106...
There is power to be had if you want to void every level of your warranty and rebuild / turbo, etc...
AlphaFox
08-06-2007, 05:48 PM
maybe stick a poetatoe in the tail pipe when you want to go slow, then remove to go fast!
seanele
08-06-2007, 06:28 PM
maybe stick a poetatoe in the tail pipe when you want to go slow, then remove to go fast!
..whois removing and whois driving?? :bellyroll: :bellyroll:
seanele
08-06-2007, 06:32 PM
I believe unichip has SOMETHING like this more or less power switch but I could be wrong. NOS would be the real fun switch IMO :)
APR chip installed to non factory turbo..:wink:
Spades
08-06-2007, 06:35 PM
nitrous my friend...gotta be careful with that sh-t on a yaris though...plastic intake manifold...
the design of the manifold will allow the nitrous to puddle if you use a dry shot...thats bad news.
so, it might be a good idea to wait for a company to make a set of injectors for a wet shot...either that or wait for a manufacturer to make a intake manifold or build your own.
Yeah the plastic manifold scares me a lot with the though of a nitrous backfire. I would think if you ran a wet shot (no more than 35) you should be OK...but you better make sure everything else is bang on. IMO the 35 shot just isn't worth it though. These cars need a good 50hp over stock to really liven them up.
leasaunce
08-06-2007, 08:08 PM
hmm...thanks all for your comments.
well once I get a turbo on the Yaris im pretty sure I can have 2 different settings, low n high boost.
Motorhead6T5
08-07-2007, 04:39 AM
Nitrous doesn't puddle fuel does,thats why a dry shot would be safer. Our intakes are meant to run air through them not fuel. The technology of foggers is getting better so you can get away with a wet shot,but a dry is still safer at low levels. You get more punch out of a wet shot though,where a dry comes on more gradual.
Turbo&Auto
08-07-2007, 08:37 AM
If you're using a dry shot on a returnless fuel system you have issues to begin with......Dry kits boost fuel pressure as fuel compensation. Our FPR is in the tank so you cant just jump the vacuum port on it and increase fuel pressure.
Besides a wet kit is a HELL of a lot safer.....
drecian
08-07-2007, 09:27 AM
I know on older (non DBW) auto cars with a physical 'kickdown' switch, you could splice in a toggle switch so that when you engaged it; it would hold each gear to redline regardless of throttle position as well as dropping back to the lowest usable gear for better acceleration. A close friend's father had it on a Porsche 928 and it made it drive much more like a manual in the way of engine braking by holding gears unlike a 'normal' shift pattern (as high a gear as possible as soon as possible).
Yaris Revenge
08-07-2007, 09:54 AM
Problem solved! :thumbsup:
~YR
Nitrous doesn't puddle fuel does,thats why a dry shot would be safer. Our intakes are meant to run air through them not fuel. The technology of foggers is getting better so you can get away with a wet shot,but a dry is still safer at low levels. You get more punch out of a wet shot though,where a dry comes on more gradual.
The jets atomize the fuel and nitrous so well that on a small shot there should be very little chance of puddling. The one advantage of our plastic intakes is that they will be very smooth inside which should help even more. Your also activating nitrous above 3krpm (or higher for the larger shots) so there is a lot of airflow to pull it into the cylinders. I can't think of any intakes (on modern vehicles) that were factory designed to have fuel running through them and there are a lot of cars running wet systems with no issues. Biggest problem is overzealous use of nitrous and/or improperly tuned engines. Not sure about the more punch from a wet shot vs dry...I've had both and they both hit the same way:iono:
Turbo&Auto
08-07-2007, 02:13 PM
I felt the wet was definately stronger then the dry but the wet is definately a safer route.
Motorhead6T5
08-08-2007, 12:23 AM
If you're using a dry shot on a returnless fuel system you have issues to begin with......Dry kits boost fuel pressure as fuel compensation. Our FPR is in the tank so you cant just jump the vacuum port on it and increase fuel pressure.
Besides a wet kit is a HELL of a lot safer.....I was kinda generalising as I have no experience on a yaris using nitrous,you could be right. I know some people on the scion forums have run dry kits up to a 35 shot with no problems,they have returnless like us. To a point the maf will adjust,this is why on a dry kit you mount before the maf,and a wet tap after the maf. The oxygen sensors will adjust also,this is why a dry kit won't kit as hard,its the delay of the computer adding the extra fuel as oposed to just strait injecting it right with the nitrous on a wet kit. Some people will even tell you a dry kit is a waste of nitrous.
I will rephrase my previous statement,if the nitrous kit is tuned correctly(via a/f on a dyno or wideband) then dry is considered safer at low amounts of nitrous injection. It may not be safer however on this piticular car/engine.
Reasons a wet kit is not as safe,puddling of fuel via a leaky selonoid,and the intake manifold was not designed to flow fuel,which can lead to fuel starvation of certain cylinders when the nitrous is engaged.
Turbo&Auto
08-08-2007, 08:33 AM
Have you ever seen a wet nozzle when its spraying? If it puddles, it would be amazing.....
Up to 35 shot?? isnt 35 the lowest??
I ran a 75 shot on my Matrix, wet kit and plastic IM. Ran fine. I didnt keep it on there long, went turbo quickly after but it ran just fine on the bottle.
I would NEVER trust the toyota ECU to compensate fuel for me either, you obviously havent tuned one of these cars or any other newer Toyo's. They are a REAL PITA.
Motorhead6T5
08-08-2007, 08:18 PM
Have you ever seen a wet nozzle when its spraying? If it puddles, it would be amazing.....
Up to 35 shot?? isnt 35 the lowest??
I ran a 75 shot on my Matrix, wet kit and plastic IM. Ran fine. I didnt keep it on there long, went turbo quickly after but it ran just fine on the bottle.
I would NEVER trust the toyota ECU to compensate fuel for me either, you obviously havent tuned one of these cars or any other newer Toyo's. They are a REAL PITA.Um,it can puddle if your selonoid seals go bad and it will dribble into the intake track,this can be an issue if you run it on the car for awile and it gets a lot or even little use. And I'm not saying it will always happen or even happen a lot,more of an issue with cheap selonoids.
They make smaller than 35hp jets,I've personaly used a 25 on a 1st gen GSX.
I didn't say you won't be fine with a wet shot. A dry shot is infact safer at lower levels if you want to believe it or not. Less to go wrong. You are right I have never tuned these new toyotas,their fuel system and PITA ecu is quite normal of all new cars.
If putting nitrous on a matrix makes an expert than I'm not expert,but I wonder if you have ever had a real performance car? :barf:
Turbo&Auto
08-09-2007, 12:24 AM
LOL!!! I build them regularly, you really have no clue.......
How about a 10second street car that I helped my dad build?? Or my garage full of Turbo'd rides???? 98 Subaru RS with a WRX swap, turbo'd Matrix, Turbo Accord(motor swap, T3/T4, all custom fabbed by myself). Even my more recent beater projects like a 95 Neon ACR. Mopar performance everything with a 75 shot. That car made 200whp with VERY lil invested.....
What do you rock??
RShatchback
08-09-2007, 12:50 AM
LOL!!! I build them regularly, you really have no clue.......
How about a 10second street car that I helped my dad build?? Or my garage full of Turbo'd rides???? 98 Subaru RS with a WRX swap, turbo'd Matrix, Turbo Accord(motor swap, T3/T4, all custom fabbed by myself). Even my more recent beater projects like a 95 Neon ACR. Mopar performance everything with a 75 shot. That car made 200whp with VERY lil invested.....
What do you rock??
Smells like performance to me...:thumbsup:
But I'm sure someone will come up with a "blah blah blah" story about some type of V8 car, cause only that can mean real performance. I had a formula 350 with plenty of upgrades for years and it paled in the performance and fun category compared to my 81 rx7 with a carb'd turbo setup or my b16 eg6 civic hatch or my gst eclipse. what people consider "performance" is gonna be relative and jaded depending on what types of cars they grew up around...
Turbo&Auto
08-09-2007, 01:21 AM
My dad's car is a Cuda that had a 440. Its now a Indy 500ci bored and stroked version of the 440, aluminum heads, custom fuel system by me, Gforce 6 speed, 9" rear, ladder bars, roll cage, 12" wide wheels in the rear with drag radials. Theres a LOT more but thats the basic idea...
The car ran a 11.8 with regular street tires. He was having clutch issues above 7500rpm at the track with the drag radials on the car. He also has a set of slicks, but just havent made it back to the track since. He likes to just cruise it around LOL! He WALKED a viper leaving it in 6th on the highway....its no joke!!
This is a short short clip of it before he put the Boyd wheels and drag radials on the car
http://www.nicksturbomatrix.com/vids/takeoff.htm
Edit: Heres a clip of my honda that I modified a DSM turbo setup to fit on, VERY budget build up. Now it has the motor swap and etc...Still wrapping it up though
http://www.nicksturbomatrix.com/holyshit.wmv
Ask around, I have no need to BS about crap. I was just debating what you were saying, dont take it personal :)
Might as well add my weak Matrix too ;)
http://www.nicksturbomatrix.com/vids/cornerblowby.htm
The Matrix was done before ANYONE offered anything FI for it, everything was one off.....
Bumper cam!!
http://www.nicksturbomatrix.com/vids/bumpercam.htm
Since I mentioned it, the Pee-on too:
http://www.nicksturbomatrix.com/350zdown.3gp
This race you can see we were dead heated, OFF the bottle. I hit the switch and bye-bye 350z :)
calmcool
08-12-2007, 07:24 PM
Any piggy back from HKS, Greddy, Blitz, Jetchips and Venom can have two or more different mode.
ChinoCharles
08-12-2007, 08:54 PM
T&A, your Honda is f'n ridiculous.
Turbo&Auto
08-13-2007, 08:37 AM
Thanks :)
Its going to be a LOT faster now. That setting in the video was about 200whp and 250wtq, 10psi. I didnt dyno at 15psi, my downpipe came loose on the dyno and it wouldnt boost past 10. I fixed it in the parking lot but they didnt have time to get me back on there. It was at a dyno meet ;) I went to another dyno when I got back home and they F'd my car all up. They set the roller weight to 3800lbs!!!! The car wouldnt rev past 5K, he said I just wasnt making any power. F'in retard!! Blew my clutch and smoked the rings in cyl #2. I drove the car home on 24psi and just beat the piss out of it. Leaked out 2qts of oil on my driveway when I pulled in LOL! When its going down I blow it up all to hell!!!
Motorhead6T5
08-14-2007, 01:16 PM
I hit a nerv lol. I've rocked all kinds of shit. Right now a Blown chevelle.Good shit though.I will check out your rides later when I got time.
Turbo&Auto
08-14-2007, 03:22 PM
Its all good man, I just wanted it known I'm no fucktard ricer LOL
SiliconRane
08-14-2007, 06:54 PM
Anyone ever try Rocket Boosters?? Perhaps Warp Drive?? Or even a Flux Capacitor?? I believe those would be the only options to make our cars REALLY fast . . .:bellyroll: :bellyroll: :bellyroll: :bellyroll:
Turbo&Auto
08-14-2007, 10:22 PM
I made a turbocharged briggs powered go-kart, it wasnt too shabby :)
ddongbap
08-20-2007, 02:59 AM
Whoever was talking about the BMW's M button:
Outside the M mode, the engine is set in a reserve setting. I'll take the E60 m5 for example. The engine is capiable of 507hp, which is what its rated for. Though you'll only get that power by keeping the M button on. When its off, you're at 400~ hp. Just to save some gas.
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