Who has installed Megan Coilovers?

[Thirty-Nine]

Okay, I bought the Megan coilovers.

Who has installed them? Is there really any drilling that needs to be done (as in Vanderkitten's write up)? He's the only person I've heard talk about installing these coilovers.

Does anyone have pics of the adjusters installed?

(I have installed aftermarket suspension setups before, so the actual installation doesn't bother me at all.)

[brickhardmeat]

colinT and vanderkitten is all I know of

[WeSellCarParts]

Ive sold 4-5 sets but a couple of them were really recent so not sure if they have installed yet

[Thirty-Nine]

So, I'm installing these right now. I've run into a problem with the rears, though. It's like there needs to be a spacer somewhere on the shock piston, as they're too long. I've run out of thread on the bolts, and there's still about 1.5 inches to go (of bare shock piston).

Do I need to use the black OEM dust cover? Did people have to use this on their Teins?

[staticorex]

Yeah. For my teins I left all stock parts but the springs themselves.

I just re-read what you posted... I'm not clear what bolt you're talking about. There should only be one. Unless you took the strut off. ????

[Thirty-Nine]

Yes, I'm replacing the shocks/struts AND springs (they're full coilovers).

I got the backs; I used the OEM dust cover/bumpstop. I didn't use the bumpstop Megan supplied, as I think it'd limit the travel if I'm using the OEM.

Now I'm working on the fronts. I can get everything so far, but am having a problem removing the hard rubber dust covers on the tops of the struts (in the engine bay) of all things! I've gotten everything else undone. :-D

Any tricks to getting the stupid dust cover off? I assume it's just a flathead screwdriver wedged underneath and twist to pop it off ...

[staticorex]

The cover comes right off. Make sure you aren't pulling off the whole thing. Just the cap. The black rubber thing is two parts.

[Thirty-Nine]

I've gotten two flathead screwdrivers underneath the darn thing, and I can't get either one of them to come off ...

EDIT: Nevermind - I got it. Thanks for the pointer!

[staticorex]

It sounds like you're trying to pry off the whole piece. There is a small thin cap on the whole rubber cap. It pulls off with no effort. I wish I could explain it better. :/

Pic # 15.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1096&highlight=diy+springs


Edit: Yay. :)

[Thirty-Nine]

Well, it looks like I have to throw in the towel for the night. I don't have the right 17mm wrench to get the nut off of the front struts. I assume most people used a 17mm offset wrench with a 6mm allen wrench in the top?

[03Z33]

I used an air gun, but the offset wrench is how most do it.

On the rear I needed to use a spacer also, the shock was too tall and ran out of threads, I just used a bunch of washers.

[dsc_pat]

I used an air gun, but the offset wrench is how most do it.

On the rear I needed to use a spacer also, the shock was too tall and ran out of threads, I just used a bunch of washers.


what are the spring rates on your cusco set up ?

thanks

[Thirty-Nine]

I used an air gun, but the offset wrench is how most do it.

On the rear I needed to use a spacer also, the shock was too tall and ran out of threads, I just used a bunch of washers.

I'm going to pick up the wrench and 6mm allen tomorrow so I can get it done!

[03Z33]

what are the spring rates on your cusco set up ?

thanks

I'm running SK's not Cuscos. They're 8K front and 5K rear.

I'm going to pick up the wrench and 6mm allen tomorrow so I can get it done!


Cool, post up if any questions :thumbsup:

[largeorangefont]

Well, it looks like I have to throw in the towel for the night. I don't have the right 17mm wrench to get the nut off of the front struts. I assume most people used a 17mm offset wrench with a 6mm allen wrench in the top?

Yea that is what I did.

[Thirty-Nine]

Just a big thanks to everyone that's helped already! For not being a huge forum, there are a lot of helpful people – and they happen to be quick to respond, too! You guys are great!

[staticorex]

:) You got them on?

[Thirty-Nine]

:) You got them on?

No, not yet. I've got to get the fronts done today after I get the wrenches.

[dsc_pat]

I'm running SK's not Cuscos. They're 8K front and 5K rear.


thanks

does it rub on your pic ? ;)

[Thirty-Nine]

I'm having some issues with the front sturts.

We've put everything back to gether on the struts and are using the supplied bumpstop vs. the OEM one. Everything is put together in this order:

shock
Megan bumpstop
Megan dustboot
Megan red anodied metal top with plastic noise reducer
OEM upper coil spring seat
Strut mounting bearing
OEM nut
OEM strut support sub-assembly

This assembly gets attached to the steering knuckle and swaybar, and put up into the shock mount hole. On top of that goes the suspension support, then the Megan lock nut.

When I lowered the car down, both shocks rose up about 2" from each shock tower hole. Something is obviously not right, and I can't for the life of me figure it out, but something is definately not right.

I did NOT use the metal spacers that go onto the shock piston (they come assembled with these).

My only thoughts are: 1) The nut on top of the strut mounting bearing isn't all the way down or 2) something else :smile:

ANY help would be greatly appreciated.

[03Z33]

You're re-using the stock upper rubber piece right? I think that is what you call the "OEM upper coil spring seat"?

Most aftermarket shocks for this car will stick out further on top, that's normal. If you can post a pic of it, that would be helpfull so we can try to see if it's supposed to be that way.

[Thirty-Nine]

You're re-using the stock upper rubber piece right? I think that is what you call the "OEM upper coil spring seat"?

Most aftermarket shocks for this car will stick out further on top, that's normal. If you can post a pic of it, that would be helpfull so we can try to see if it's supposed to be that way.

These sick up so that the top cover is up in the ari, which isn't right, which makes me wonder if the bolt that goes on the strut moutn isn't tightend all the way down. I did use this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/Tekka_Maki/strut.jpg

The problem is the circled part (and the bolts) rise up about 1.5 inches when lowered down:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/Tekka_Maki/strut2.jpg

Obviously that isn't supposed to be up in the air.

I can't get photos until tonight after work and hopefully, I'll be able to trouble shoot this this today so I can finish it tonight.

[03Z33]

You've got it right then. That's actually completely normal. Mine sticks out atleast that much and so does everyone elses that has installed Tanabe springs or Cusco coilovers. That's just how it is.

I'm searching for a pic right now...

Here's a quick one from Chris07LB's Tanabe Strut bar how to:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1906&stc=1&d=1161304703

It's difficult to see in this pic, but there is a gap there. I'd take a pic of mine to show you, but my car isn't back from the body shop yet.

[Thirty-Nine]

I don't think I explained it well.

The support, which I circled in the diagram above, is NOT in the strut-tower hole. It is raised above the strut tower about 1.5", and makes NO contact with the metal below. This means that the strut can wiggle around in that hole because there's no support.

[03Z33]

I don't think I explained it well.

The support, which I circled in the diagram above, is NOT in the strut-tower hole. It is raised above the strut tower about 1.5", and makes NO contact with the metal below. This means that the strut can wiggle around in that hole because there's no support.

Yes, I completely understand and that is completely normal. That support doesn't center the strut in the housing, the strut is centered by the lower rubber support from underneath. The upper "support" that is sticking out is only used to keep the strut from pulling out of the car when the car is raised in the air. Hopefully someone else with coilovers who has access to the car will take a pic?

[Thirty-Nine]

If that's the case, it renders the adjuster knobs useless... BRB; I'm making an MS Paint version of the pic!

[03Z33]

For the adjuster, a few coilover companies such as Zeal and JIC sell a flexible extension line which will hang forward to where it's easier to reach and still be able to turn the adjuster. Just search for it for cars like the 350Z rear suspension where they have the same problem. A simple version of this would be to weld or attach a flex-extension from a 1/4" or 3/8" socket set to the top of the adjuster and have it stick out to where you can reach.

You can see the two black flexible adjuster lines between the two coilovers in this pic:
http://og-made.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/09/2.jpg

Or you could just drill a small hole directly above the adjuster and just stick a tool in there when you need to adjust :wink:

[Thirty-Nine]

Okay, so here's what it looks like (as you can tell I'm no artist. The two nuts are the same size, BTW (don't say that every day)):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/Tekka_Maki/strut3.jpg

[03Z33]

Yes, that would be normal. That is how it will look after installing the coilovers or aftermarket springs. I realize this doesn't "look" normal but it is :thumbsup:

[Thirty-Nine]

So that's normal? Weird. That means I took the whole damn driver's side off for nothing! LOL

I cut the dampner adjuster rods down so they don't hit the top of the wiper cowl. I guess I'll take 'em down a bit more after this.

[Thirty-Nine]

Okay, so I called Megan, and I think I screwed something up. I'm using the Megan coil seat AND the OEM coil seat. A guy at Megan said there shouldn't be any metal-on-metal contact.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/Tekka_Maki/strut4.jpg
EDIT: That should read: Red anodized part + OEM spring seat = no?

[03Z33]

Isn't the OEM spring seat rubber? How would that red aluminum spring seat mate to the underside of the car? On the SK coilovers there was a similar aluminum spring seat but it required the use of the stock upper rubber spring seat.

[Thirty-Nine]

Isn't the OEM spring seat rubber? How would that red aluminum spring seat mate to the underside of the car? On the SK coilovers there was a similar aluminum spring seat but it required the use of the stock upper rubber spring seat.

The OEM unit is metal; the OEM dust boot has a built-in rubber grommit that seats between it and the top of the spring.

The red aluminum ring apparently mounts to the large rubber "sub assembly," which is part of the OEM unit as shown in the OEM diagrams.

There are also some 1.5" metal spacers that came on the shock's pistons (they sit just below the threads on the top end of the shock's pistons), and I'm not sure if I should use them or not. I did not install them on the rears.

I'll tell you this: Megan does NOT include a real set of directions with these, and the folks at Megan Racing weren't able to help much either.

[RShatchback]

Everytime i see a new post in here - i keep hearing the word. Tein... echoing in the back of my head. Good luck with the issues - hope you get it worked out...

[Thirty-Nine]

Really -- I don't think these are any more difficult to install than the Teins. The issue is that Megan doesn't give you a list of what needs to be reused from the OEM suspension. With this, things would've been MUCH smoother. Instead, you've got to figure it out on your own.

If you want a softer ride without adjustability, then by all means, go Tein Basics. However, those of us who want adjustability (and don't have $1,300+ to spend on a set of coilovers), Megan may be a good choice. I'll let you know if I ever get them installed ...

[cdmyaris]

should have pmed wesellcarpart or c2auto. They sell tein coilover set near $880

[Thirty-Nine]

I could've picked them up for $850 locally, but I didn't want the Tein Basics. Actually, it's not that I didn't want them, but for $875, I picked up the Megans which, again, are adjustable and stiffer. The quality seems very good, too. The only "bad" thing about them is the lack of good instructions thus far.

[brickhardmeat]

Tein was a very easy install and the instruction were quite clear. Also the guys at Tein are very helpful. I'm just sayin'.

but hey, the megans have adjustable dampening:redface:

hope you get it worked out though, too bad colinT isn't around, he installed his own

[Thirty-Nine]

Right. I'm by no means trying to knock the Teins. I had S-techs on my xB, and they were great. I know Tein makes a good product. But unfortunately, they don't offer a set of adjustables in the U.S.

Hopefully, I'll be able to get this all figured out tonight and help those who do decide to go the Megan route so they don't have to figure it out on their own.

[brickhardmeat]

Right. I'm by no means trying to knock the Teins. I had S-techs on my xB, and they were great. I know Tein makes a good product. But unfortunately, they don't offer a set of adjustables in the U.S.

Hopefully, I'll be able to get this all figured out tonight and help those who do decide to go the Megan route so they don't have to figure it out on their own.

take pictures:wink:

[03Z33]

If you get a chance to call Megan again, ask for Steve or Cyrus. Let me know if you need me to call them for you.

Pictures would also be very helpfull, I'm sure some of us that have done a few suspensions on this car before can help out if we saw some pics. I've done the suspension on my car three times now (Tanabe DF's, Cuscos, and now SK's) but never done or seen the Megans yet unfortunately.

[03Z33]

BTW, look what I just found on the Megan site:

http://www.meganracing.com/products/product_page.asp?catid=107

Those are the adjusters I was trying to describe :thumbsup:

[kapo]

Nice! Once mine settle.. I will probably buy on set of those.

About the installation.. I want to explain what we did, but Im really bad with the terms, and I dont want to say it like "the little thing in metal goes with the plastic round thing"... so.. I will probably do a sketch about my installation. {my english sucks}

BTW, look what I just found on the Megan site:

http://www.meganracing.com/products/product_page.asp?catid=107

Those are the adjusters I was trying to describe :thumbsup:

[03Z33]

Check your PM :wink:

[Thirty-Nine]

I actually talked to Steve today over my lunch break. I'll e-mail him about the flexible adjusters.

Anyway, I've gotten one of the sides done, and lowered down, the top of the strut looks like this. Can anyone confirm that this is correct? They're up 3/4" from the base of the shock tower (I did measure this).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/Tekka_Maki/2007-09-25003.jpg

(BTW, this is without the black shroud that houses the adjuster knobs which don't have much clearance usually)

[dsc_pat]

can a Tein owner take a pic of his head shock like the pic posted up here ?

i don,t know if it is the coilover or the guy's knowledge, but this sound like an horrible experience with the megan coilover.....

[03Z33]

That looks correct, all three suspensions I installed on my car left the gap like you have. I never measured it, but with the Cuscos I remember it being at least that high, it still looks very similar with my current setup. I'll do my best to take a pic this week when I swing by the body shop.

[brickhardmeat]

Tein fits near flush, nothing like pictured

[dsc_pat]

but tein uses OEM hats (almost all «top» OEM hardware ?) ? and the megan/ksport (i think we can say that...) uses it's own top plates...

[03Z33]

If I remember how it works correctly, the only thing that will affect the height of the dust cap is the length of the portion of the shaft the sticks out on top of the upper strut mount and the length of the threaded portion on the shaft. It really makes no difference to the functionality of the suspension. If the manufacturer wanted to make it look more like OEM then they would either source a slightly shorter strut or thread the strut further down so that the dust cap can be lowered more. The fact is that there are only so many struts to choose from in the aftermarket and it probably doesn't make sense to custom make a specific shock length for each and every car.

[Thirty-Nine]

Well, it can't be right. Something is definitely not correct. Once I got both sides "done" and we lowered it down, the right side went up even further to the point that the metal shroud with the wiper motor hardly clears at all.

Here's something to think about: pre load. The person at Megan said I needed to "pre load" the suspension. However, how can I do that if there's nothing to attach the tops to (because it doesn't use the OEM spring mount w/a nut)?

http://www.meganracing.com/uploadImage/regular/yaris%20coilovers.jpg

Notice the picture of the front strut. It's got the anodized red top with a nut on it. There's nothing to tighten that nut to like the OEM "hat" or support.

[03Z33]

I'm trying to upload the picture from the repair manual right now.

You must have the strut bearing and the nut tightened onto the strut before installing the upper rubber portion and before installing the strut into the car. There needs to be some preload on the spring (or at least the ability to preload it).

From the picture it looks like the stock strut bearing may press right into the red anodized spring seat? If so, then you should be able to tighten the nut up to the bearing before installing into the car.

[Thirty-Nine]

I'm trying to upload the picture from the repair manual right now.

You must have the strut bearing and the nut tightened onto the strut before installing the upper rubber portion and before installing the strut into the car. There needs to be some preload on the spring (or at least the ability to preload it).

From the picture it looks like the stock strut bearing may press right into the red anodized spring seat? If so, then you should be able to tighten the nut up to the bearing before installing into the car.

I had originally used the entire seat from the OEM strut. Is this not correct? How do I get just the bearing off? That'd make some sense. Currently, this is what the assembly looks like (gotta love MS paint and that fact that I haven't taken any photos of the actual setup yet):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/Tekka_Maki/strutassembly.jpg

[03Z33]

I had originally used the entire seat from the OEM strut. Is this not correct? How do I get just the bearing off? That'd make some sense. Currently, this is what the assembly looks like (gotta love MS paint and that fact that I haven't taken any photos of the actual setup yet):


I would think the stock spring seat won't fit, so you'll need to press out the stock strut bearing from it and transfer the bearing over to the new coilover. If you can't push it out with your fingers, then try tapping on the outside race gently or a wooden hammer handle should do the trick. Then the nut (which I don't see in your diagram?) will go over the bearing before the rubber part (which fits around/over the strut bearing).

[Thirty-Nine]

I would think the stock spring seat won't fit,

Correct. However, the first time I attempted to install this, I actually used both the stock and the Megan tops bolted together with the bearing and everything, and the pistons still came way out from the tops of the strut towers. After calling Megan, they said I am only supposed to use the red tops that they supplied. There was no mention of the strurt bearing, though.

so you'll need to press out the stock strut bearing from it and transfer the bearing over to the new coilover. If you can't push it out with your fingers, then try tapping on the outside race gently or a wooden hammer handle should do the trick. Then the nut (which I don't see in your diagram?) will go over the bearing before the rubber part (which fits around/over the strut bearing).

Okay, assuming I need to take this part out and it does fit the Megan units, how much do these need to be preloaded?

[03Z33]

Correct. However, the first time I attempted to install this, I actually used both the stock and the Megan tops bolted together with the bearing and everything, and the pistons still came way out from the tops of the strut towers. After calling Megan, they said I am only supposed to use the red tops that they supplied. There was no mention of the strurt bearing, though.

Yes, you must use a strut bearing always on this type of suspension.



Okay, assuming I need to take this part out and it does fit the Megan units, how much do these need to be preloaded?

According to the repair manual the torque on the nut directly above the strut bearing is 25ft/lb. I usually use an air tool on it, but you don't want to over tighten it so you don't damage the bearing.

[Thirty-Nine]

Okay; I'll pop that bearing off. I e-mailed Megan jsut now about my issue, too.

dsc_pat: Did your Megan coilovers come with an installation manual?

[dsc_pat]

nope, but i don't own these coilover actually, sorry for the misunderstanding.

i am looking for some Ksport since i know Koni won't make shocks for a few months/years for the yaris....

[kapo]

That is the way we did the installation. I'm not sure if we needed the bump stops (not used) inside the oem rubber.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/Tekka_Maki/strutassembly.jpg

[kapo]

DId you used another nut on top metal spacer?

[Thirty-Nine]

DId you used another nut on top metal spacer?

No. I beileve that spacer is actually used as a stop for the only nut that I used.

Did you use the stock strut mount bearing?

Also, you don't by chance have any pics of the shock towers after the install?

[Thirty-Nine]

Out of curiosity, can someone explain to me why the shock pistons on my Megans raise up through the towers, but the OEM ones don't?

[staticorex]

My OEM ones do with just the new springs.

[Thirty-Nine]

Okay, I finished the project last night! A big thanks to all that helped, especially 03Z33! It's very simple once you figure out what parts you need! I couldn't believe it, really. This whole thing could've been avoided and done (with hand tools and two people) in around an hour or less if I had known exactly what parts I needed.

Here's the deal (I took a pic, and will post it later): For the front Megan struts, you must reuse three stock parts: The strut bearing, the nut on top of the bearing, and the rubber support assembly (The big black rubber donut on top). Basically take the strut as you recieve it from Megan, take the stock strut bearing and press it in place (yes -- use the little metal sleeve, too), tighten it down with the stock nut, and then put the stock rubber support on top of that. Then you can install it as you would any other strut assembly. I'll compose a detailed write up later.

I drove home (with a ton of tools and stuff in my last night), and I will say this: even on the "full soft" setting, these are very stiff. However, the car now feels like a go kart! The steerig response feels so much better! Although these are probably not for people looking for a soft ride, they should be great for autocross and/or track use! I can't wait to do my favorite twisty road with these. It feels like a racecar!

I'll give you more info next time I'm able to drive it more.

Cliff notes
Use OEM strut bearing, nut and large rubber donut on top
Ride is stiff, improved steering feel

[kurokoma-kun]

CONGRATULATIONS!

Man what a struggle. I've been interested in your progress, but could not help.

I'll look for your writeup, but think if I get these I am having the mechanic install. :laugh:

[nqd]

cograts man...hope you enjoy those coilovers...ill prob be picking them uup too later on...

so..an hour project became, what like a 3 or 4 event?

[CKMotorsport]

megan brand. is it made in TAIWAN or china?

[Thirty-Nine]

Yeah, I started it it at 11:00am on Sunday. Got the rears done in about an hour (after trying to figure out which OE parts I needed to use). The fronts took 3 days!

What I don't want to do is give the impression that these are difficult to install. They are not. What was difficut for me (I'm no engineer) was determining what parts from the OE struts needed to be reused.

Now I know that, I could probably do the entire install in 3-4 hours (which includes taking off all of the stuff in the engine bay).

[Thirty-Nine]

megan brand. is it made in TAIWAN or china?

Taiwan.

It's actually made by this company http://www.bcec.com.tw/. The quality seems very high. Just remember: just because something is made in Taiwan doesn't mean it can't have good quality control.

They also allegedly make A'pexi's stuff, too.

[nqd]

CONGRATULATIONS!



I'll look for your writeup

+1

[dsc_pat]

do you have mechanic experience ?

[CKMotorsport]

Taiwan.

It's actually made by this company http://www.bcec.com.tw/. The quality seems very high. Just remember: just because something is made in Taiwan doesn't mean it can't have good quality control.

They also allegedly make A'pexi's stuff, too.

I tried D2 brand (taiwan brand) on my Honda Jazz. but i do not recommended for you guys to use it (for street or circuit use). first, it's very stiff for street use,the shock absorber very hard even after I put it to soft, but it's too soft for track use. 2nd, tried to use it for practice on the track probably 4 or 5 times. shock absorber starts leaking.

so I decided to buy Japanese brand (J's Racing) the shock absorber made by CRUX Engineering, it's the best coilover kit i ever tried. I use it for Practice and Race for the past 2 years, and still in good condition until now (never been overhauled).

after you tried this kit can you give me the review. because after what's happen, I never trust any taiwanese product. but I heard megan in this forum a lot, so I'm just wondering "is it a very good product or just their low price?"

thanks

[Thirty-Nine]

do you have mechanic experience ?


I'm not a professional mechanic, but I've done suspension installs on several cars before including two xBs, which is why I figured I wouldn't have a problem with this car.

I can't stress enough that the install is NOT HARD. What was tricky was finding out what OEM parts needed to be used, which is NOT listed in any literature. However, now you all know! :wink:

after you tried this kit can you give me the review. because after what's happen, I never trust any taiwanese product.

Well, I wouldn't judge an entire nation's products based on one bad experience.

Let me get some seat time in this car, and I'll let you know if it's too stiff. I want to crank the dampning up to see how stiff this thing really can be.

[kapo]

Thirty-Nine.. maybe you know..

1. to lower or raise the car.. we need to turn the cylinder? or the top spring perch (as your drawing)? can you measure from the bottom until you touch the threaded cylinder please? also, that inside from the bottom there is not thread... is not a problem that if you turn the cylinder?

2. if you don't adjust the stiffing (thats a word?).. starts in 0 (cero) from factory?

[Thirty-Nine]

Thirty-Nine.. maybe you know..

1. to lower or raise the car.. we need to turn the cylinder? or the top spring perch (as your drawing)? can you measure from the bottom until you touch the threaded cylinder please? also, that inside from the bottom there is not thread... is not a problem that if you turn the cylinder?

2. if you don't adjust the stiffing (thats a word?).. starts in 0 (cero) from factory?

1) To lower/raise the car you turn the entire cylinder. You loosen the bottom red stop, and then turn the entire shaft accordingly. If you adjust the upper perches, you're going to increase/decrease your suspension travel, which is a whole nother adjustment.

2) I don't know where the factory settings were. I turned mine all the way to "S" or soft.

[kapo]

how you turn the cyliiinder? by hand i guess.. but I can't do it.. :(

[Thirty-Nine]

Undo the bottom red perch. If it still doesn't move, take a jack and put it under the conrol arm to take some tension off. I found that worked. I was having a hard time turning mine, too at first. This helped. And yes -- you do it by hand (wear gloves!).

[kapo]

thanks! good advice!

now.. one thing.. i was playing arround with my setup, and i was able to raise or lower the car using the top spring perch... is possible if you can measure between the spring stop and the bottom stop? so i can put it at stock distance..

thanks!

[dsc_pat]

thanks for all the info

asked if you had done mechanic before only to compare to myself..thanks !

let us know how stiff it is and how low you drop the car...can you go as high at stock height ? (or almost stock..) ?

[Thirty-Nine]

Here's a pic of the Megans w/my Rays Engineering Texan Shot Guns (16x7 +37 205-50-16).

I need to either raise the rears or lower the fronts a bit, I think. Rubs a bit under cornering. I will say, with these sticky Yokohama ES100s, this thing is like it's on rails. :headbang:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/Tekka_Maki/Rays%20Texan%20Shotguns/P9271148.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/Tekka_Maki/Rays%20Texan%20Shotguns/P9271152.jpg

[brickhardmeat]

looks great on those wheels with that drop:thumbsup:

[yrsdrgn]

yay another yaris with an aggressive stance ^^

[03Z33]

Looking good! Glad you got it worked out in the end. Just sorry I couldn't give you more definitive advice... I must have assumed you had the strut bearing installed already.

[Astroman]

Looks good! I hate my wheel gap :cry:

[kapo]

looks good!!!

[smokinyaris]

THAT SHIT IS ILL SON

[mojoyaris]

I use Megan coilovers and like them. I'm running them full hard in the front and mid in the rear. The 6k springs are pretty stiff in the back but good enough for the street and weekend track runs.
I plan on getting the front springs changed from the 5kg to 7kg for the track, but this will make it harder on the highway where the car bounces all over the place going into the mountains.

[Thirty-Nine]

I haven't yet cranked the dampening up yet. I'm still on full soft and it's still very stiff. I want to crank 'em up to full stiff just to see what it's like.

[ToTo]

Looks really good, but lower the front a bit!

[Thirty-Nine]

If I go any lower in the front, I'll rub like crazy. As it is now, I rub a bit in front with 195/55/15 tires and 15x6.5 (+40) wheels.

It's been over a year now, and I still really like them -- no problems.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/Tekka_Maki/Yaris/autox0.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/Tekka_Maki/NewOrange1.jpg

[ToTo]

Does anyone know how low can you go on coilovers without rubbing on 195/50/15?

[Thirty-Nine]

Pretty darn low. I'm nearly at full UP in the rear, and the fronts could go down a lot more if you're going for a show car look. It'd be miserable to drive that low, though.

[ToTo]

Thanks for the info! It would be a miserable ride even with coilovers?

[Thirty-Nine]

The Megans are pretty stiff, even at soft settings. If you're looking for a nice, soft ride with coilovers, check out the Tein Basics.

[seth_man]

Does anyone know how low can you go on coilovers without rubbing on 195/50/15?


pretty low, ive got 205/45/16 tires 16x7 +40 wheels and i dont rub. i cant fit a finger between the fenders and the tires. lots of preload though.

[thebarber]

having the same problem with mine...gotta take the fronts apart tomorrow....

damn megans and their no instructions...

[Thirty-Nine]

Did you get your problem solved?

[thebarber]

Did you get your problem solved?

sorta..might have been using the wrong bolt at the top of the bearing

also lowered the height in the front another 1/2". still sits a bit too high above the strut top, but ill live with it, i guess

[weedtank]

Silly question but how do you adjust the height for the rear? Is it the spring or the damper?

[thebarber]

Silly question but how do you adjust the height for the rear? Is it the spring or the damper?

perch for the spring for height

[ozmdd]

I'm resurrecting this thread in hopes that 39 might post that DIY/pics he promised?? :)
If nothing else, how did you go about pressing-out the strut bearings? There is a lot of great info about these coilovers in this thread, it just takes a while to find it.

Any chance you can post some dimensions/settings for your current setup? Like, how much rear shock thread is showing? How much preload did you end-up going with? How low did you drop it without lots of rubbing?

Thanks! the thread alone has been mucho helpful.

[thebarber]

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b339/dabarber/yaris/lowering/yarisdrop002.jpg

[ozmdd]

Thanks. A picture really is worth a thousand words!

[ToTo]

Hey guys! Im really trying to understand this install, but can someone give me some info on the rear shock to begin with? I dont quite understand the purpose of the threads on the bottom of the rear shock? What is it used for and how do I adjust it?

Thanks!