Talked to my mechs about nitrous.

[staticorex]

I've been doing a bunch of research on nitrous for the Yaris and read a few differing views on here. So I finally went and talked to my mechs down the way yesterday. They have been working with the stuff for years and I figured they would be good for some advice.

A few people here have warned against dry shots due to the temperature and the plasstic intake manifolds. Apparently the cold shatters or at least cracks the plastic. So wet was recommended.

Mech's response... If the dry will crack it, so will the wet shot. Doesn't matter where you inject it, when it gets to the IM it is the same temp. In fact the cold is part of why it works.

So they recommended the only safe way to add nitrous is to have a metal IM. In other words, get a supercharger and a 50 shot is fair game. Leave the IM OEM and a 25, if you can even find a wet shot kit that low, could seriously damage your little econobox. :p

Just a fyi since there seems to be no OFFICIAL advice here. Not saying this is the end-all. But I have known these guys for a long time and they know what they are doing. Were working on a 754rhp 05 mustang while I was there.

Anyway, like I said this is not gospel. So techies feel free to criticize or confirm this. I think I can speak for all of us here when saying your opinions are more than helpful. :)

[RogueYaris]

that's pretty logical thinking. i wouldn't do something like that with a plastic IM.

[Toyotech]

I've been doing a bunch of research on nitrous for the Yaris and read a few differing views on here. So I finally went and talked to my mechs down the way yesterday. They have been working with the stuff for years and I figured they would be good for some advice.

A few people here have warned against dry shots due to the temperature and the plasstic intake manifolds. Apparently the cold shatters or at least cracks the plastic. So wet was recommended.

Mech's response... If the dry will crack it, so will the wet shot. Doesn't matter where you inject it, when it gets to the IM it is the same temp. In fact the cold is part of why it works.

So they recommended the only safe way to add nitrous is to have a metal IM. In other words, get a supercharger and a 50 shot is fair game. Leave the IM OEM and a 25, if you can even find a wet shot kit that low, could seriously damage your little econobox. :p

Just a fyi since there seems to be no OFFICIAL advice here. Not saying this is the end-all. But I have known these guys for a long time and they know what they are doing. Were working on a 754rhp 05 mustang while I was there.

Anyway, like I said this is not gospel. So techies feel free to criticize or confirm this. I think I can speak for all of us here when saying your opinions are more than helpful. :)

well the one question they should have asked is what type of fuel system you have. do not run dry... run wet and you can find a 30-35 wet that would suit your needs. i have seen dozens of platic manifolds pop from an intake backfire but they take more abuse then you think, use it properly and don't go cheap.

good luck.:thumbsup:

[staticorex]

So you think a 30-35 wet shot would be fine on a plastic IM?

[punch]

thats bullshit! people have been using the plastic intake ( which flows better) on the pt cruiser with nitrous for years now...

also look into water injection.

[staticorex]

I got the warning against it from this site. The mechs just said if the dry would crack it, so would the wet.

[Toyotech]

thats bullshit! people have been using the plastic intake ( which flows better) on the pt cruiser with nitrous for years now...

also look into water injection.


water injection wouldn't be efficient on the yaris for anything worthy.

if u are worried then don't do it but almost every instant i have seen if from a puddle in the manifold then a nitrous backfire blowing the manifold to bits.

[staticorex]

I would like to take your advice but I can't understand what you are trying to say.

[Motorhead6T5]

People run nitrous just fine through ls1 based chevy motors,and those have plastic intakes. I think you would have to be running a very big shot or for a long period of time for it to actually freeze the plastic. Just run direct port then it won't be in the intake but for maybe an inch lol. I have never heard about the freezing of the intake thing before though. I have heard of people blowing them up though.

[Black Yaris]

Turbo + NOS =? on the Yaris?

[Lafiro]

How much would it cost to put a NOS system on the car is my question.

[Black Yaris]

edit found one cheeper
http://www.fortune3.com/envision/Nitrous_Oxide-NOS_Drive_By_Wire_Wet_Nitrous_System_4_6_Cyl-.html
just over $700
they came down A LOT since I check last year about this time

[staticorex]

Okay. First, no more NOS. If you want to call it that fine, but not in my thread. It's nitrous. NOS is a brand called nitrous oxide systems. Please try not to sound like a 16 year old who just got his first car and go around saying "I'm getting some NAAZZZ" while posting in this thread.

No offense to anyone, but that is really upsetting me. I feel like I'm getting crap info when the people commenting are using a term no informed mech has ever used.

Second, the mechs I talked to did bring up the Ls1's. That's why they were surprised to hear it may break. They recommended the kit I was planning on buying - Zex. It's not tunable which is perfect for this car since I would be using small shots. Plug and play.

So what I may do is guinea pig this and try it out. Sorry for the rant but I hate when intelligent people make themselves sound stupid by using that word. This is not the F&F world. There are other brands. And on that note: Nos brand nitrous wouldn't work for the car anyway. Well it might, but it would be one of the worst options. :)

[ddongbap]

That would be the same thing as calling Kleenex, tissue paper. We call 'em Kleenex, not to be noob, but because thats what the original name was.

[sdmf]

project y has 35 shot of nitrous in his yaris, i believe it was a zex kit.

[Joker]

I've used and installed nitrous kits on a variety of cars, import and domestic. I have not heard of any plastic intakes "blowing up" or "cracking". What I have heard and seen is when the car leans out things break, i.e. your intake and engine.

Nitrous does nothing but make fuel burn quicker, lean out on fuel and you have a problem...thats why wet kits are better (safer) then dry kits, at least in my opinion. Dry kits use the stock injectors to compensate for the additional fuel needs when using n2o, given that the injectors arent at their limit. Wet kits are exactly what they sound like, additional fuel is plummed in either by an addl fuel pump or off the fuel rail if so equipped.

Zex kits do not have a good following, their marketing is one of "easiest and safest kits around", do your research first. I have seen more horror stories of Zex kits than any other brands.

Nitrous Oxide Systems has a wet kit available for Drive-by-Wire cars, # 5134 and is adjustable via jets for 35/50/75 HP levels.

For those who never had nitrous on a car (or bike) let me advise this, to fill a 10 lbs bottle is gonna cost ya $35-45 (at least in Chicago) and will only last 10-15 passes. Also keep in mind you will need a bottle warmer to keep the bottle pressure at about 900 psi which will run you about $125-150. Low bottle pressure = poor performance.

I would think if someone is going to consider a nitrous set up and keep their car normally aspirated then look into what some quality aftermarket mods might cost ya, meaning port the cylinder head, good intake/exhaust/header, some type of additional fuel enrichment, etc. Having power all the time instead of having the same power only on n2o is much more fun in my opinion.

Just my 2 cents here guys, trying to be a bit helpful. Thanks....

Tony

[Toyotech]

I would like to take your advice but I can't understand what you are trying to say.


ok... when using a wet kit you won't be getting a complete burn, from the manifold/runner design you will end up having fuel that can puddle into the bottom of the manifold. to help compensate the fuel puddling many people increase the activation to higher rpm, from that find your shift points and where the rpm lands in the next gear. 4500rpm may be a good result.

another result of the puddling is solenoid issues or improper install

I have seen dozens of lsx block motors blow the manifold... leaving a nice big dent in the hood as it jumps.

now... the yaris is a returnless fuel system, so right off the bat... no fuel pressure regulator=no dry nitrous set-up. the fuel pressure that is needed is not supplied with your ecm

[Capagotks]

Okay. First, no more NOS. If you want to call it that fine, but not in my thread. It's nitrous. NOS is a brand called nitrous oxide systems. Please try not to sound like a 16 year old who just got his first car and go around saying "I'm getting some NAAZZZ" while posting in this thread.

Calm down mate. people only do it because its quicker to type and easier to say, like i wouldnt go up to a mate and go "are you purchasing a nitrous kit for your automobile? I do believe it is quite nice" i would say "yous gettin nos bro? fully sik!"(pronounced "bra" with a slight rolled R).

If people were talking about a specific brand, then you can tell easily enough what they mean.

[battleversiontc]

ive been running a nitrous setup in my scion tc which has a plastic with a 50 shot dry set up has the same no return line fuel pressure dont have to worry about it the wet system has to up the fuel pressure to prevent a drop in fuel pressure due to the valve opening up when nitrous is turned on mine runs on a rpm based window switch from msd turns on at 3000 rpm so long you are running full throttle and octane above or at 92 your fine. ive ran dry systems through 4 cars already no problems my scion tc, 2 acura rsx, and scion xb. wet systems are more common to engine backfires due to the fact of fuel being added dry systems are not.

[PETERPOOP]

a 755 hp crx?!

[ddongbap]

ive been running a nitrous setup in my scion tc which has a plastic with a 50 shot dry set up has the same no return line fuel pressure dont have to worry about it the wet system has to up the fuel pressure to prevent a drop in fuel pressure due to the valve opening up when nitrous is turned on mine runs on a rpm based window switch from msd turns on at 3000 rpm so long you are running full throttle and octane above or at 92 your fine. ive ran dry systems through 4 cars already no problems my scion tc, 2 acura rsx, and scion xb. wet systems are more common to engine backfires due to the fact of fuel being added dry systems are not.

That was quite a mouth full, huh?

[battleversiontc]

ls block sleeved
gsr head stock cams
je pistons
crower rods
rc 1200cc injectors
aeromotive a1000 fuel pump
garrett gt 4294
sumped tank
odx diff
dss stage 3 axles
skunk 2 intake manifold
gsr trans
made 755 whp with a chrome tune

previous set up
ls sleeved
gsr head
ls bottom end
eagle rods
je pistons
garrett t 60-1
dsm injectors
gsr trans
stock axles
stock trans
made 504 whp

the difference to jump to 755 $4000

built the car had it already to go then they closed the track so now it just kinda sits there and chills

and yeah that was kinda of a mouth full

[Reddog99]

Just a fyi since there seems to be no OFFICIAL advice here...... You won't ever hear any OFFICIAL advice since Toyota would never sanction nitrous. :laugh:
All you ever get are opinions, and you know what they say about opinions...

[TheRealEnth]

well imo (not that you are asking for it) i don't really appreciate nitrous. Its like chugging down a steroid drink or something. its better to spend money on other performance mods. Too many kids running around with 2 bottles of NOS on the back of their stock hatchback civic swearing they are god.

[ChinoCharles]

well imo (not that you are asking for it) i don't really appreciate nitrous. Its like chugging down a steroid drink or something. its better to spend money on other performance mods. Too many kids running around with 2 bottles of NOS on the back of their stock hatchback civic swearing they are god.

It is the cheapest, easiest form of power around. Period. It has its place, but using it correctly and knowing what it is doing to your engine is a whole other matter. For all we know, you could throw 50 shots at a stock 1NZ for years without damaging a thing. Nobody knows, but boy do we have a lot of speculation. :wink:

[turboecho2005]

The only time nitrous should be used is when you have a massive turbo to spool up :headbang:

Nitrous does have its place... Its super cheap for the power you get. But remember it can get expensive if you have to keep refilling the bottle. So sure its cheap the 1st bottle and the 2nd bottle... but what about the 10th bottle? or 20th bottle? at that point you might want to consider some form of forced induction or n/a bolt-ons instead.

My 2 cents.

[at3GG]

Let me start by saying I've never owned a F.I car or one with nitrous......

I get annoyed when people call nitrous "cheap" or "sneaky" or call those who use it cheaters. Why exactly is that? Is not a professional tune or upgraded turbos on a stock looking car "cheating"? I don't get it. A turbocharged mustang that makes 400whp is awesome but a mustang that makes it on spray is looked down upon oftentimes. On the same note, using racing octane gas at the track is cheating too. If i am at the track and have the opportunity to drive one of two cars....i'll pick the faster one...whether its on spray, whining or spooling. End speech.

[ddongbap]

Nos isn't any worse than a Turbo is. Just don't run ridiculus shots and you'll be fine. Same with a turbo. Don't run an insane boost number, and you'll be fine.

[richardholdener]

Before testing on the lkow-buck turbo system began, we ran tests on a 40-hp shot using an NOS kit on our Yaris. We ran through a whole bottle atthis power level and never had any backfires or intake damage due to temperature. I have run nitrous with composite intakes on a wide variety fo different applications (inlcuding the 1.8L Scion Xb) and never had an issue with cracking. We even ran the 40-hp jetting on our modified Yaris (120 wheel hp before the nitrous). The result was (peak numbers of) 162 wheel hp and 155 lbs. ft. of torque on the 1.5L Yaris. This was a wet kit injecting nitrous and fuel between MAF and throttle body. Their cracking intake theory is just that-a theroy-real data always works best.

[Tamago]

i ran a 40shot with no issues.. it would take a very large amount of nitrous to crack your intake manifold..