Yaris Oil Change DIY

[rningonfumes]

Even though this is a pretty easy exercise, I guess I must still put a disclaimer:

YarisWorld and RningOnFumes are not responsible for any damages acquired while in the process of performing the following directions during or after the Oil change. Please be prepared and follow the directions. Again the author of this DIY and YarisWorld are not responsible for any actions you take which may cause damage to your car.
1.Prepare
2.Read
3.Follow

If you can't handle an oil change...get to know your mechanic well.
**If this is the car's very first change, it is suggested you take it to the dealor or whomever, Toyota tends to almost literally weld their oil filters on. Because they are over tightened from the factory, you may have problems taking it off.
word of advice - you might want to try to loosen the filter FIRST before you drain the oil pan. just make sure you can get the filter turning(don't unscrew all the way or you'll have a mess) before draining all the oil out of the car in case you have to take it to the quick-lube place to have them take the filter off for you. don't ask how i know this :rolleyes:
**Great advice !
A. If at this point, you are still adamant about doing the oil and oil filter change your self..... You may wish to skip to the Oil Filter section (2) if you have a very new vehicle--(first oil filter change since the factory). This will allow you to see if you can get the oil filter off on your own. If you can not for any reason, you still have the option of then going to the dealer or an outside shop because you still have oil for which to run the engine on.**




LAST WARNING (about the filter)....AND HERE WE GO! GOODLUCK!!
1. Buy supplies.
1. Oil: The cap says 5W30, there is a TSB that states you can use 5W20. I went with 5W20 to stay under warranty. You can go lower or higher. When to go any lower or higher, it will depend on your climate and driving pattern. Remember though, stay within Toyota recommendations for warranty purposes.
2. Oil Filter: Size Mobil M1-103 OR Toyota 90915-YZZF2 DENSO (made in Thailand) OR if you can find it: Nippon Denso 90915-10003 or 4 (Made in Japan) -which is a much better quality than the Denso. Or find the brand you like in the appropriate size. As for other brands, you can try non premium ones because they cost as much as 5-10 dollars less, just stick with the brand names and you should be fine. AND ....NO FRAM!!!! I REPEAT, NO FRAM.
I would never-EVER use the toyta Thailand filter again its very low quality compared to Toyota Japon, Nippon Denso 90915-10003 or 4. NO FRAM!


3. Filter Cap socket attachment
4. Socket Wrench
5. Size 14mm Socket
6. Oil Catch Can
Once this first oil change has been done, for all the rest, you should only require new oil and a new oil filter (granted you kept everything).
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g256/rningonfumes/Quick%20pics%20for%20forums/How%20to/YarisOILCHANGE/NEEDED.jpg

2. Getting to know where everything is:
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g256/rningonfumes/Quick%20pics%20for%20forums/How%20to/YarisOILCHANGE/TOPENGINE.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g256/rningonfumes/Quick%20pics%20for%20forums/How%20to/YarisOILCHANGE/A_underside_wed0120bars.jpg
Underside pic from RShatchback of Yarisworld.
_____________________________________________ ______ _____ ____

Now for the actual changing.....
NOTE: It is advisable that you warm up the engine to operating temps to mix up any deposits into the oil so it drains with the oil. Also important to note that if you feel the oil pan is too hot...wait a bit or use gloves. A quick drive to the store and back should be enough time for things to warm up properly.

1. Drain Oil using 14 mm Socket to remove oil plug. Use the wrench first to loosen the plug, then place Oil catch can under and proceed to twist the the plug loose with your fingers. (REMEMBER THE OIL MIGHT STILL BE TOO HOT, USE CAUTION)
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g256/rningonfumes/Quick%20pics%20for%20forums/How%20to/YarisOILCHANGE/DRAINPLUG.jpg


A) Open the Oil Cap at the top of the engine to let air in if you wish for the oil to drain a bit faster.
B) Wait until the oil comes out to a few trickles.
C) Wipe down the oil pan. Clean up the drain plug.
D) Put the cleaned plug back into the pan. Be careful not to force it or you will strip the bolt and/or the hole. Tighten to firm with the socket wrench.

2. Oil filter. (REMEMBER OIL MAY STILL BE TOO HOT TO HANDLE THE FILTER, USE CAUTION)
A) Attach the oil filter cap to the socket wrench or use an appropriate oil filter wrench. I like the cap because of the ability to use the tool in small spaces.
B) Drag the oil catch can under the oil filter
C) Loosen the filter from the top of the engine (more room to work with). Remember because the filter is upside down (and you are looking down to it), you twist right to loosen.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g256/rningonfumes/Quick%20pics%20for%20forums/How%20to/YarisOILCHANGE/th_SOCKETTOOL.jpg (http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g256/rningonfumes/Quick%20pics%20for%20forums/How%20to/YarisOILCHANGE/SOCKETTOOL.jpg)
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g256/rningonfumes/Quick%20pics%20for%20forums/How%20to/YarisOILCHANGE/FILTER2.jpg
Note: Twists reversed because you are viewing it from the top and the filter itself is mounted upside down.
Not bad - but wrong on one point: Its Left-Lucy, Righty-Tighty on the filter. Actually there is no left or right. Its anti-clockwise to loosen (unless its a flammable gas fitting). Also I would never-EVER use the toyta Thailand filter again its very low quality compared to Toyota Japon, Nippon Denso 90915-10003 or 4. NO FRAM!



D)Use hand to twist the filter off. The Oil Filter will still have residual oil in it, turn it over and place it onto the catch can to continue draining. Wipe the opening of the Oil Filter nozzle.
E)Prepare the new oil filter by holding it upside down. Fill in from half to full of new oil. Spread some of the new oil on and around the oil filter gasket.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g256/rningonfumes/Quick%20pics%20for%20forums/How%20to/YarisOILCHANGE/PREFILLOILFILTERANDWIPEGASKET.jpg
F) Take out the old filter and catch can from underneath the car. Put in the new, prepared one. Twist to the left to hand tightness. **yes, hand tight** If you want torque specs. scroll down to Discussion C.



3. Filling:
A) Open Oil Cap (if you haven't done it yet). Place Funnel in hole.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g256/rningonfumes/Quick%20pics%20for%20forums/How%20to/YarisOILCHANGE/th_FUNNEL.jpg (http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g256/rningonfumes/Quick%20pics%20for%20forums/How%20to/YarisOILCHANGE/FUNNEL.jpg)

B) Fill to about 3 quarts and stop. If you're using the big 5qt Jug from wally world, put in a little under 3/4 of the jug.
C) Replace the oil cap. Wipe your hands and go start the engine and let her sit.
D) While the engine is running: Take a rag and start wiping things down. What you're doing is looking for leaks from the oil plug and from the oil filter. Of course don't stick your fingers where they don't belong while the engine is on.
E) After about 2-3 minutes, shut down the engine and pull the dip stick. Wipe it off and put it back in. Now pull it and look at where the oil is. because you only put in about 3 qts. The oil most likely will only be at the very tip of the dip stick. Put the Dipstick back in and fill up about half a qt. Run the engine again.
F) After another 2-3 minutes, stop the engine and check the dipstick. Oil should be around the bottom to middle (between the two dots).
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g256/rningonfumes/Quick%20pics%20for%20forums/How%20to/YarisOILCHANGE/DIPSTICKCLEAR.jpg
G)....continue this until it gets to the middle...if the oil is in the middle...YOU'RE DONE!
H) Clean up, save oil and oil filter receipts for your records. Go have a beer or something.

4. Afterwards/Discussion
A) Check air filter to see if it needs replacing. Check wiper fluid levels. Check tranny dipstick (if you have one).
B) After the first day, then the week, then two weeks, check the ground under the car after you've pulled out to see if there are leaks. This just means tightening things up.
C) The Oil plug under the car should have been just firm with the wrench, the oil filter could have been just hand tight. If you are anal retentive, you may use the wrench to twist to firm. But the hand tightness is to help you for the next change, when that time comes, even if you did it to hand tightness, you will still find yourself needing a wrench.
As for Torque specs:


Oil plug (with new gasket)...
38 N*m (382 kgf*cm, 28 ft.*lbf)

Oil filter...
13 N*m (133 kgf*cm, 9.5 ft.*lbf)
If the available workspace is insufficient to use
a torque wrench, tighten the oil filter a 3/4 turn
by hand or use a common wrench.

http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairmanual/


D) About oils. You can stay Dino (non-synthetic) if you wish, this won't hurt the engine in the least bit as long as you do it within the service intervals. Those of you who want to do synthetic may see a slight increase in performance and mileage (more mileage than performance). As far as brands...stick with the name brands and you will be fine. If you want some homework go to these two places for education:

1. General knowledge on Oils: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
2. Great discussions on Oils: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums

E) Service Intervals... If you don't want to get into the debate, stick with the 5000miles Toyota recommends...plus it doesn't void the warranty. Now if you are past the warranty (usually 36,000miles or 3 years), You could up the interval to near 10k miles if you want on certain synthetics.
Make sure your oil meets or exceeds the minimum specs required by Toyota.

Keep all receipts for future records! Write in a log the mileage, type of oil (ie 5w-20), and Filter type/brand.
F) From here on, you should be able to get away with buying the oil and the filter because you will already have everything else. Matter of fact, take the opportunity to take a trip to the store for that period you're supposed to warm up the car, this way, you won't be wasting gas staying in one place waiting for the engine to warm up.
G) You can find 5 Qt Jugs of oil or you can find oil in the usual 1 Qt bottles.
F. PLEASE DISPOSE OF YOUR USED OIL CORRECTLY. MOST AUTO PARTS STORES ARE HAPPY TO TAKE YOUR USED OIL. EVEN YOUR LOCAL MECHANIC WILL AS WELL, TAKE THE OIL FROM YOU.

[bdc87]

Thanks for reposting! By the way Mobil 1 is not what its hyped up to be. I use Royal Purple and a K&N Filter.

[Yaris_Style]

To the people who want to restore some important topics.

If you remember the thread titles, Google them, and use Google Cache to repost them in the forum.

You will have to do this quickly before Google updates its Cache (next few days).

Here, a head start.
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&safe=off&q=site%3Awww.yarisworld.com%2Fforums&btnG=Search&meta=

START!

[dvlnblkdrs]

good indeed.. i was thinking of attempting this since i want to kinda avoid dealership for maintenance now that i will have wheels on in a few weeks with tuner lugs on it.. dont want nobody hurtin my baby.. i may have to have some assistance the first time or so, then i think ill run wild with it alone.. but only cuz this wonderful detailed diy.. love it


i took 2 yrs of auto shop and never touched a car, so i have no clue about nething.. lol

[rningonfumes]

*I've finally moved everything, please consider this post for a sticky.

[yarisitis]

I didn't know you needed to fill the new oil filter with oil before you put it on. So you fill it between half way and full? What's the purpose of putting oil in it?

I never did this with my old car, but will start doing it with my Yaris since my first oil change is coming up soon.

[posaunemeister]

I think it's because all of the oil eventually flows through the filter and then the engine re-uptakes the oil from the filter. And perhaps when the ignition is started, the engine re-uptakes the oil directly from the oil filter. So if the ignition takes place and there is no oil in the filter (after an oil change), it's sort of like dry-heaving (puking without any food in your system). That's just my guess. Sorry.

[yaris-me]

Thanks, rningonfumes. Nice write up. It should be a sticky.:clap:

[rningonfumes]

Yarisitis, I think Posaunemeister has it down.

This is what I got from Carbibles.com (one of the links I posted):

One reader suggested and additional step before (9) above. When he changes his filter, he fills the new one up with clean oil and waits for it to soak into the filter itself. Once he's satisfied that the filter is soaked, he pours the excess oil out of the filter and then screws it on to the engine.

Along with Posaunemister's interpretation, I would add that you're giving the filter a head start in both filtration and sending oil to the engine. I realize that the engine should still have a thin coat lining it's walls but this allows the engine to get that fresh oil that much sooner, so basically it's a precaution. Folks with better knowledge will probably chime in their opinions as well.

As for me, I've just done it out of habit and I put it into the directions. Another thing out of habit is that I don't really care for the crush washer as shown here from a pic found at Carbibles.com:
http://www.carbibles.com/images/sumpbolt.jpg Courtesy of www.carbibles.com
You will find people will also have their opinion about the crush washer.

Yarisitis, I recommend you be well prepared to put extra "elbow grease" when taking off your stock oil filter because you say it's the first time for your car. You should definitely use the cap I wrote about above, otherwise you might find yourself having to use a screwdriver punchered into the side of the filter.
Good luck, it should be smooth as long as you're prepared. LOL..the KEY IS LEVERAGE. MOAR LEVARAGE!! haha.

Edit: Thanks Yaris-me!

[Yaris Hilton]

My original oil filter came off with no drama. Just took a little more of a grunt than usual to get it started.

[toad]

great write-up! word of advice - you might want to try to loosen the filter FIRST before you drain the oil pan. just make sure you can get the filter turning(don't unscrew all the way or you'll have a mess) before draining all the oil out of the car in case you have to take it to the quick-lube place to have them take the filter off for you. don't ask how i know this :rolleyes:

[rningonfumes]

Toad, great advice! I hope the change is to your liking. I hadn't thought about telling people just to try the oil filter before draining the oil on the car's first change.... so use to the habit of oil first, always.

[RedRide]

The best solution would be if you change you own oil regulaly is to just get a filter wrench. A simple band wrench only cost a few $.

[Yaris Hilton]

Oh yeah, you really need one. Even when you properly lubricate the gasket and install the filter finger-tight, you commonly need the wrench to break it loose 5,000 miles later.

[PhilD424]

Damn 5W20? Thats wayyy to thin. Even so with 5W30. I personally wouldn't use anything less then 10W30, atleast for the kind of driving we do in NYC. That thin oil is only needed for extremely cold climates. Also you might want to let people know they don't have to use a socket wrench for the drain plug, its really not needed just use a 14mm wrench.

[R2D2]

Nice write up! This needs to be a sticky.

Just FYI prefilling filters (or not) is one of those eternal polarizing arguements-I'm not even going to go there just be clean about it!
Anything in the center tube is heading for the bearings unfiltered so don't let any crud in there.

65mm 14 flute cap style filter wrench on a 3/8 ratchet works great for the Yaris.

R2

[Yaris Hilton]

I've never prefilled filters. Never saw anybody else do it, either, only certain somewhat OC people who've written online instructions. :wink: It just takes a few seconds for the oil pump to fill it and the gauge pressure comes right up. The residual lubrication in the engine that was just shut down carries it through that.

[RedRide]

Yes. Most service depts and local garages do not prefill a filter.
While it is a good thing to do no harm will come to an engine if you don't.

As Yaris Hilton said, it only takes a couple of seconds for it to fill and oil pressur to build up.

Just don't redline it the second you start it and it will be fine. :wink:

[AlexNet0]

I would recommend against using a band filter clamp there is almost no room for that. I would recommend cap style as R2D2 said above.

65mm 14 flute cap style filter wrench on a 3/8 ratchet works great for the Yaris.

[bronsin]

If you turn the oil filter in the direction you indicate in your illustration to loosen it you will tighten it instead.

[yarisitis]

I'm going to be doing an oil change on my Yaris today or tomorrow and I want to get something clear before, kinda dumb question...

The drain plug is the one circled in red right?

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm295/elscorcho2686/Misc/Random/DRAINPLUG.jpg


Better safe than sorry.

[Altitude]

^^ Yes.

[bronsin]

Excellent!

[Lazerdot]

FYI, don't qoute me..., but If I remember correctly my Amsoil monthly info a couple months ago said something about Toyota going either 0w20, or 5w20 recommended in 2010 or 2011 cars. Evedently for better mileage. I'll try to find the info.

[127.0.0.1]

Thanks for reposting! By the way Mobil 1 is not what its hyped up to be.


LOL WUT ?

I have fed my 5VZ Mobil 1 since day 1 in 1998, and 184,000 miles later it still exceeds EPA (22mpg, epa is 19) and I have super clean exhaust, no knock sensor activity on 87 octane. every 8000-10,000 miles new Mobil 1 and new filter.

My cams have almost undetectable wear. My engine has no sludge I repeat no sludge at all, whatsoever. I beat the crap out of it and it is still more powerful than a brand new motor. original pistons original rings original valves original cams.

I don't know where you get your Mobil 1 info but it sounds like you are slamming it for some unknown reason. try 11 years of serious engine beatdowns, and after seeing virtually no wear then tell me Mobil 1 is not all it is cracked up to be. (virtually no wear means everything measurable and made of metal and uses oil lubrication is within spec by a large factor)

mobil 1 rocks

[yarisitis]

LOL WUT ?

I have fed my 5VZ Mobil 1 since day 1 in 1998, and 184,000 miles later it still exceeds EPA (22mpg, epa is 19) and I have super clean exhaust, no knock sensor activity on 87 octane. every 8000-10,000 miles new Mobil 1 and new filter.

My cams have almost undetectable wear. My engine has no sludge I repeat no sludge at all, whatsoever. I beat the crap out of it and it is still more powerful than a brand new motor. original pistons original rings original valves original cams.

I don't know where you get your Mobil 1 info but it sounds like you are slamming it for some unknown reason. try 11 years of serious engine beatdowns, and after seeing virtually no wear then tell me Mobil 1 is not all it is cracked up to be. (virtually no wear means everything measurable and made of metal and uses oil lubrication is within spec by a large factor)

mobil 1 rocks
Hey loopback address, do you work in networking or something?

[yarisitis]

Oops, I put in too much oil than I should have...I think, reading the damn dipstick, as easy as it sounds, is a pain because one side has the oil at the full level and the other side has it way above the full level. It's pretty misleading so I don't know if I over filled it or not.

Are there any real consequences (drop in MPG, bad for the engine?) from this or will it be fine?


It should be fine as long as I don't get any checking engine lights or oil pressure lights coming on right?

[yaris-me]

Install a Fumoto valve in the drain hole, then oil changing is easier and if you over fill, you can drain a little to the correct level.:laugh:

[rningonfumes]

Oops, I put in too much oil than I should have...I think, reading the damn dipstick, as easy as it sounds, is a pain because one side has the oil at the full level and the other side has it way above the full level. It's pretty misleading so I don't know if I over filled it or not.

Are there any real consequences (drop in MPG, bad for the engine?) from this or will it be fine?


It should be fine as long as I don't get any checking engine lights or oil pressure lights coming on right?


Still within the dots but towards the higher end? Can you take a pic?

[yarisitis]

Still within the dots but towards the higher end? Can you take a pic?
On one side it's all the way to the dot marking full, and on the other side it's way beyond the full dot.

I'll try taking a picture tomorrow so you can actually see.

[127.0.0.1]

too much oil is a big problem. a little OK, 1/2 quart....should be OK


more... no good.

[bugg_master]

the engine capacity is 4.89 quarts i think??but when i use only 4 quarts its still too full!!!!!:mad: i'm confused!!!!

[AmyV]

I didn't know you needed to fill the new oil filter with oil before you put it on. So you fill it between half way and full? What's the purpose of putting oil in it?

I never did this with my old car, but will start doing it with my Yaris since my first oil change is coming up soon.

That is to help make sure that there is no gap in lubrication. The hardest thing on an engine is startup, before oil is moving effieciently. In that second before the pump starts pulling from the sump, some 80%-90% of total engine damage is done. Damage being normal wear and tear damage. Now that is obviously unavoidable. But the point is that by putting some oil in the filter, it helps make sure that, right after an oil change, that initial startup doesn't take longer.

Damn 5W20? Thats wayyy to thin. Even so with 5W30. I personally wouldn't use anything less then 10W30, atleast for the kind of driving we do in NYC. That thin oil is only needed for extremely cold climates. Also you might want to let people know they don't have to use a socket wrench for the drain plug, its really not needed just use a 14mm wrench.

Actually, with newer engine, 5W20 is actually the best. As an engine ages, clearances get larger (i.e. between the cylinder wall and the piston), so a heavier oil is fine. But when the engine is newer and has smaller clearances, a thinner oil is needed to ensure quick and efficient lubrication.

[Altitude]

the engine capacity is 4.89 quarts i think??but when i use only 4 quarts its still too full!!!!!:mad: i'm confused!!!!

Dry fill is listed at 4.3q. We never do a dry fill so an oil change usually takes about 3.5q to fill it.

[yarisitis]

So the measurement from the dipstick is about this where the red line is:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm295/elscorcho2686/Misc/Random/dipstick.jpg


Way too much? I'm guessing so, I guess I'll just drain a little from the drain plug.

[Altitude]

So the measurement from the dipstick is about this where the red line is:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm295/elscorcho2686/Misc/Random/dipstick.jpg


Way too much? I'm guessing so, I guess I'll just drain a little from the drain plug.

Definitely way too much. Get it out of there ASAP.

[rningonfumes]

Altitude is right, get it out of there.


Be sure to drain it into something clean in case you let out too much. If you happen to be too low, you can take the same oil and put that back in.

Since this time you aren't doing a change, let it out when the car is compeletly cold so you won't burn yourself. Try to let out what you think to be 1 or 1.5 quarts, even 2 quarts, close things up and check the dipstick. If you're low, fill up to the half and check twice. Warm up the engine and check twice again.

Try to get it to the half-way point and you should be good.

Good job, your next change should be a cinch.

[yarisitis]

I drained about half a quart out and now the dipstick measures exactly at the full mark.

Is that fine or should I really have it around the half way mark?

[rningonfumes]

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&source=hp&q=oil+at+full+mark+on+dipstick&aq=f&oq=&aqi=

It's best to have the oil level as close to the middle mark as possible or at least from half to full. The oil level isn't like the brake fluid or other fluids where you should be at the full mark.

For now you should be okay.

[Red Horse]

I just wanna add this little gadget I found on the net http://qwikvalve.com/home.php Its a drain plug like a faucet for easy oil change.

[AmyV]

I just wanna add this little gadget I found on the net http://qwikvalve.com/home.php Its a drain plug like a faucet for easy oil change.

Never seen one of those. But that looks sweet!!! :w00t:

[mikenacarato]

thats the fumoto valve. ive got one and i love it.

[tada]

I was looking around for the best price on the Fumoto Valve (F103) and found a link on ToyotaNation and a discount code for it. It makes the final price including shipping $24.65.

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com
Discount code: YM4

[rningonfumes]

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=187

That's a great buy.

Choice of two valves. 'With nipple and without.

Both work great but if you ever want to get a underpanel like the one Microimage has, the one witht he nippled extends out enough to impeded the panel form being installed without adjustments.


I have the one with the nipple, grea for attaching a hose so you can drain more easily, but now I have to adjust the panel. I don't have it on right now.

[sbergman27]

Damn 5W20? Thats wayyy to thin. Even so with 5W30. I personally wouldn't use anything less then 10W30, atleast for the kind of driving we do in NYC.
5w30 is considerably thicker at 0F than it is at 200F. Just not by as much as a straight weight oil. Why do you think that it needs to be *even thicker* when cold, but don't seem concerned about 5w30 at normal operating temperature. In practice, the lower the first number the better. It's the second number that is really significant. Personally, I don't see the point in 10w30. It just takes longer to flow and makes the car harder to start in cold weather.

At any rate, Toyota says 5w30. Some engines, Yaris' included, use the engine oil as hydraulic fluid to do certain things. (Yaris' vvt-i engine uses it to control the valve timing.) So messing around with non-spec viscosities *can* have unintended consequences.

Use what the filler cap recommends.

[Hard_Yaris]

I want to know what the Deal is with the FRAM oil filters?:iono: Problems or just a personal preference?

[Happy Little Pony]

I want to know what the Deal is with the FRAM oil filters?:iono: Problems or just a personal preference?

If I may be so bold as to offer my opinion:

The cheapest Fram filters (the "orange can") have gotten a bad reputation. It may be deserved or it may not. There are plenty of anecdotal stories of Frams letting people down, but anecdotes are not proof that Fram's are any more prone to failure than any other cheapie brand. The main point of contention seems to surround the use of paper-like fiber end caps on the filter element instead of something more substantial (like, you know, METAL!). The more expensive Fram models seem to be made a little more stout and you don't hear as many complaints about them.

I've used Frams in the past, there are millions of cars on the road using them now, and, if I couldn't obtain anything else, I wouldn't have a problem using one today. But they are way down on my list.

From Amazon, I can get Purolator Pure One's for about $4.75 or Denso for $3.94. Better filters for about the same price.

[bronsin]

Ive used FRAM filters for 30 years. 1973 Chevrolet Bel Aire 153,000 miles.
1978 VW Rabbit (my parents car which I maintained) 120,000+miles. Not 100% FRAM filters but more than 75%. No problems that I can see.

[RangerBEH]

thanks for this post. it was a big help, I was able to switch to synthetic oil and save some money......

[dferguson2]

In the last 10+ years almost every japanese import calls for 5w20, mostly for its mpg. It gets to be over 115 degrees at times in this area, Far Northern California (Redding) and as cold as +15 degrees, and I have had no problems using this weight of oil. I have used it in Subaru's, Toyotas, and Hondas. I have a 06CRV that I have run 5w20 Moblie one with the pricey Fram oil filters since new and the CRV has over 180k miles on it. It burns no oil, and leaks no oil, and it is quiet. My parents use 10w30 in Toyotas of all kiinds and get over 300K miles with them.

[sleey0]

While the xW20 oils will improve MPG, I am not sold on engine protection with that thin of an oil.

I think it is all about pushing for what is most "green" for the planet these days and I would use 0W30 well before 0W20 or 5W20.

[krolos]

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&source=hp&q=oil+at+full+mark+on+dipstick&aq=f&oq=&aqi=

It's best to have the oil level as close to the middle mark as possible or at least from half to full. The oil level isn't like the brake fluid or other fluids where you should be at the full mark.

For now you should be okay.


I don't know If you got that Right my Friend???
factory fill level is above the full mark by a 1/4"+,I get my OIL change at a very trusted shop , they specialize in Toyota and other Imports,they fill it
to spec 4 qt. and it comes to above the full mark 1/4''+, same thing at the
dealer where I had my 1st oil change .
Yes I know how to read a Dip Stick.?

[sickpuppy1]

FYI, for those of you that have Oreilly auto around you, they have an add today selling 5 qts of irelly full sythetic oil and a Wix filter for 19.99 good price!
The wife Highlander is due anyways!

[Chuck G]

I don't know If you got that Right my Friend???
factory fill level is above the full mark by a 1/4"+,I get my OIL change at a very trusted shop , they specialize in Toyota and other Imports,they fill it
to spec 4 qt. and it comes to above the full mark 1/4''+, same thing at the
dealer where I had my 1st oil change .
Yes I know how to read a Dip Stick.?

My 2010 was above the full mark as well.

[RedRide]

I have no idea why now, some are saying that you shouldn't add oil to the full mark. That's what the *&%* mark is for!

In fact, if it's slighty above the fiull mark it perfectly OK.
Als long as there is no indication of oli foaming when the enging is run hard, you are fine no matter how high the level is.

[krolos]

I have no idea why now, some are saying that you shouldn't add oil to the full mark. That's what the *&%* mark is for!

In fact, if it's slightly above the full mark it perfectly OK.
Als long as there is no indication of oil foaming when the engine is run hard, you are fine no matter how high the level is.

If you fill it to factory spec. it is going to be a little above the full mark, {4qt}
anyone who says otherwise is just simply wrong.

[2007yariz]

Hey guys! Just to be sure, the oil pan and its drain plug are underneath the front passenger seat(shotgun)??

I am so jealous that the OP has a metal dipstick, mine is plastic plus the color is YELLOW! Why Toyota? Motor oil is YELLOW!

What kind of dipstick do you guys have(metal or plastic)?

[Klink10]

Plastic

[rningonfumes]

2007Yariz,

Yes the oil pan and the drain are under the passenger side. I'm sorry about the metal dipstick, lol. Maybe 2008 was when they changed the dipstick?

Good luck with the change!

[Altitude]

2008 - Metal dipstick.

[R2D2]

2009-metal.

[why?]

is it bad i don't know this?

[bail_w]

Why no Fram?

[rningonfumes]

Why? - Nothing wrong with the plastic dipsticks.

Bail - In the past regarding the lower end Fram filters, they aren't very high quality in relation to their competitors.

[bail_w]

How about now then?

[Klink10]

Not to but in....but Frams are out. I know Wally World sells them in abundance but they also sell Supertech which gets much better reviews. Check my garage for the size as I don't remember right off hand.

[bail_w]

Yep, Wally World sells them. I was looking into the Fram Xtended Guard series, and i don't think it was as bad as the Extra and Tough Guard series filters. Anyway, I installed a Xtended Guard on my 98 Corolla, i will cut it out for inspection after 3k mileage.

[TXyaris]

Yes. Most service depts and local garages do not prefill a filter.
While it is a good thing to do no harm will come to an engine if you don't.

As Yaris Hilton said, it only takes a couple of seconds for it to fill and oil pressur to build up.

Just don't redline it the second you start it and it will be fine. :wink:

damn.. thats what i always do! lol

[biggyjiggy]

just did my first oil change on my yaris :) since ive had it. Thank you very much for the write up it helped alot :)

[junorico24]

I have worn the thread of my sump bolt.Anyone know where i can get a new one?

[rningonfumes]

Try your local autoparts sort, the worse they can say is "no". Then you'll have to try the dealership.

[edmscan]

I have a plastic dipstick :thumbdown:... I was shocked when I first saw it. Even my old 87 Honda Accord had a metal dipstick.

[tooter]

Mine is metal (2012)... I put 4 quarts in and run it a little high with no foaming issues. On the first oil change I drilled the drain plug and stuck in a really strong neodymium magnet to catch the iron powder. :smile:

[jRoss]

I just did an oil change with penzoil platinum synthetic oil and a fram tough gaurd filter. I must ask, what's ur beef with fram? I've always used fram...

[bronsin]

I just did an oil change with penzoil platinum synthetic oil and a fram tough gaurd filter. I must ask, what's ur beef with fram? I've always used fram...

Me too. I dont know whats up with FRAM but I dont see cars on the side of the road with blown engines from using a FRAM filter....

...or car manufacturers warning against using them....

[David C]

Thanks for the write-up, this should be a sticky or at least in the DIY compilation.

[cocochannel]

I'm using Fram filters (tought and ultra synthetic) and Castrol Syntec from 2007 and no problems.

[David C]

Bump for sticky.

[IllusionX]

Wow, this post has been around since 2008. :)

Nothing wrong with Fram except the filter ends inside is made of cardboard, so that might fail, if it does.

I've been sticking with OEM filters as they are cheaper than Fram anyways. But it did happen when I did not have time to get to the dealer, so I just grab a Fram from Walmart.

Else, I've used Amsoil EK filters.

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[GibbsYaris07]

I just changed my own oil yesterday after wasting 1.5 hours of my life waiting for a service APPOINTMENT, then telling me they're extremely backed up (Could've gave me a heads up). I went home, jacked it up and changed my own oil/filter in 35 mins. Much easier to DIY rather than drive to a shop then wait. This car is easily accessible for oil changes. I was even able to explain step by step to my eldest daughter as she watched me. I told her this may be her car one day so pay attention. lol

[BlackTy]

Can I do this without raising my car?

[IllusionX]

Sure, depends on your hands and how big you are.
I'm able to slide under and reach over, but it's hard to remove the oil filter IMOCan I do this without raising my car?

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[David C]

An easy inexpensive solution I found was to double stack 2 pieces of 2x6 lumber and place them in front of each wheels and drive on them. You then effectively raise the car by 3" off the ground with all 4 wheels leveled and the lumber is strong enough to support the weight of the car. That additional 3" really make a big difference in term of clearance under the car. Cheap and quick, instead of buying ramps that have the car slanted.

[Jboss]

What kind of tools do you guys use to remove the oil filter if its tough to get off because of the awkward spot of being under the car? I've seen the one where you can tighten it on the filter, and there's a oil filter cap that you use with a wrench?

[IllusionX]

What kind of tools do you guys use to remove the oil filter if its tough to get off because of the awkward spot of being under the car? I've seen the one where you can tighten it on the filter, and there's a oil filter cap that you use with a wrench?Any of these will do.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190110/8c409287de73b14c060a11558806c894.jpg

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[FunctionSpec]

Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool

[dogsridewith]

First change w/ a Lowe's Husky brand all black rubber strap wrench. (Much like the red ones in above photo.) Takes a touch, but this tool is an absolute must for the general purpose toolbox.

Second change filter (white SKS?) has a nice male hex about the size of a lug nut or a bit smaller.

Not ones in photo, but a couple of my cheap cup-type filter sockets were garbage.

[dogsridewith]

An easy inexpensive solution I found was to double stack 2 pieces of 2x6 lumber and place them in front of each wheels and drive on them. You then effectively raise the car by 3" off the ground with all 4 wheels leveled and the lumber is strong enough to support the weight of the car. That additional 3" really make a big difference in term of clearance under the car. Cheap and quick, instead of buying ramps that have the car slanted.
On a part of my lawn that slopes just right, I drive the front wheels onto shallow plastic ramps. Vehicle is level. (What I do, w/ chocks and brakes. Not advice.)

[Leegamer]

What kind of tools do you guys use to remove the oil filter if its tough to get off because of the awkward spot of being under the car? I've seen the one where you can tighten it on the filter, and there's a oil filter cap that you use with a wrench?

I've never had much luck with oil filter wrenches. If It's that tight I usually just shove a long flat head screwdriver through the filter and use it for leverage.

[komichal]

I usually just shove a long flat head screwdriver through the filter and use it for leverage.
That is a messy way. Filter is full of oil.

[Leegamer]

That is a messy way. Filter is full of oil.

I have a pan under it, usually not that bad honestly.

Doesn't happen much, I can undo it by hand 95% of the time.

[IllusionX]

That is a messy way. Filter is full of oil.Even with the tool, oil will leak all over the place as there is oil up in the engine as well, and can't be drained.

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