DIY Keyless Entry

[DanQ]

I looked through the Yarisworld site when I joined and couldn't find all of the info I needed to add a keyless entry system to a Yaris with power windows and door locks, so I created my own web site.

Details to install a Valet 712T in an 08 varis LB. (http://home.comcast.net/~dquicker1/site/?/page/Yaris_Keyless_Entry_DIY/) This should work for sedans as well. You can get the unit off the web for ~$40. Do the install yourself and save $50.

Let me know if this works for you.

Good Luck
Dan

[DanQ]

I found this factory repair manual (http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairmanual/) (supplied by etimago) useful for the finding the right wires in the harness and connector locations. This may be useful to you if you are doing an install of a full alarm system or remote start.

[TinyGiant]

the local car audio wanted $150 for the keyless system they have to sale installed... i think its probably a much better system.. but still...

[TheRealEnth]

This is still a pretty good addition that should be added to the Yaris DIY manual

[Bob_VT]

I used this diagram and instructions when I got the same keyless entry.

This is useful!

[aca72]

the local car audio wanted $150 for the keyless system they have to sale installed... i think its probably a much better system.. but still...

Also check Best Buy and Circuit City.

[lita_g]

Dan:
I have a question. I had the dealership install a remote keyless system on my 08 yaris LB, and well, it hasn't been a good experience. Anyway, the problem is they installed some aftermarket system, which when I lock the doors using the button on the door of the car, well, it won't unlock with the remote keyfob, I was wondering if you have the same problem with the unit you have (meaning it's a problem with the car), or does it always unlock without considering how the doors were locked?

I would really appreciate if you could confirm that for me, thanks!!!!

[DanQ]

Dan:
I have a question. I had the dealership install a remote keyless system on my 08 yaris LB, and well, it hasn't been a good experience. Anyway, the problem is they installed some aftermarket system, which when I lock the doors using the button on the door of the car, well, it won't unlock with the remote keyfob, I was wondering if you have the same problem with the unit you have (meaning it's a problem with the car), or does it always unlock without considering how the doors were locked?

I would really appreciate if you could confirm that for me, thanks!!!!

Mine works similar to what you describe. If you lock manually, the remote unlock doesn't work. You have to unlock manually and then the remote lock will lock and unlock again. It might be a security feature, if you manually lock yourself in the car you are protected from someone entering with a remote unlock. To be honest, I never manually lock the doors. As I walk away from the car, I lock them with the remote...

[b_hickman11]

Also check Best Buy and Circuit City.

yea if you like getting raped......

[CaptainYaris]

Wonderful walkthrough. Took it step-by-step on my 4 door and it worked perfectly. got the same system from Circuit City on sale. Not a bad upgrade for $50

[Revsson]

I ended up getting a car w/keyless entry, but had seen this writeup before the hack.

http://home.comcast.net/~dquicker1/site/?/page/Yaris_Keyless_Entry_DIY/

Just wanted to say that it is a great webpage that you made. :clap:
The photos really help to understand things. :coolpics:

[yarstar]

Just wanted to give props to DanQ. I used his DIY this summer and got one off Ebay for $35. Major easy. I even mis-wired it the first time and DanQ quickly answered my email and helped me get it straightened out. It's been working great ever since.

I too have the problem with the manual door locks conflicting with the remote. I just use the remote all the time and its never really a problem. The door switches still work if needed.

DanQ really made a $200+ upgrade down right affordable. Really good DIY. Thanks again Dan.

:bow:

[CTScott]

Just wanted to give props to DanQ. I used his DIY this summer and got one off Ebay for $35. Major easy. I even mis-wired it the first time and DanQ quickly answered my email and helped me get it straightened out. It's been working great ever since.

I too have the problem with the manual door locks conflicting with the remote. I just use the remote all the time and its never really a problem. The door switches still work if needed.

DanQ really made a $200+ upgrade down right affordable. Really good DIY. Thanks again Dan.

:bow:


Check out my post on this thread for the correction to the door switch issue:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9827&page=2

DanQ, you might want to try it as well and then update your DIY.

I am working on a DIY for Remote Start / Keyless entry for 07-09 with and without engine immobilizer.

[b_hickman11]

Wonderful walkthrough. Took it step-by-step on my 4 door and it worked perfectly. got the same system from Circuit City on sale. Not a bad upgrade for $50


Hopefully nothings goes wrong with. Circuit City filed for bankruptcy today and are shutting down a lot of their stores. My local store is suppose to be shutting down by Jan 1.

[CaptainYaris]

Looks like i need to go back and tap into the green wire. another problem i was having is that when i turn on the car, all the doors go through the "unlock" cycle. hopefully this issue will be remedied by this as well.

[CTScott]

Looks like i need to go back and tap into the green wire. another problem i was having is that when i turn on the car, all the doors go through the "unlock" cycle. hopefully this issue will be remedied by this as well.

The unlock on start issue is probably a "programming option" for the keyless entry.

[CaptainYaris]

The unlock on start issue is probably a "programming option" for the keyless entry.

I've looked through the programming guide and i think i'd have to disable the "lock on start" to disable the quick unlock on start. Its really not that big of a deal.

But the switch to the Green wire worked wonderfully, although i have to say the Valet system is a little slow to respond between the first press and the 2nd press, you have to wait for the parking lights to stop flashing before you press the button a 2nd time.

[CTScott]

I've looked through the programming guide and i think i'd have to disable the "lock on start" to disable the quick unlock on start. Its really not that big of a deal.

But the switch to the Green wire worked wonderfully, although i have to say the Valet system is a little slow to respond between the first press and the 2nd press, you have to wait for the parking lights to stop flashing before you press the button a 2nd time.

Does the valet have a mode for double pulse of the unlock wire? My UltraStart did and it makes life a lot easier than having to press the remote twice.

[CaptainYaris]

I'm not sure if it has a double pulse mechanism. that was actually the issue i was trying to avoid. i like being able to just unlock the driver side door.

[ToddR]

Installed mine this afternoon using Dan's DIY instructions and the info. from this (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9827&page=2) thread.

It was a lot less intimidating once I removed the unused wires from the 712's wiring harness. I decided not to hook up the horn wire since I leave for work at 3:30 in the morning. :biggrin:

So far I like the ignition controlled locking, but I think I might turn off the ignition controlled unlock. The unlocking seems like a safety hazard to me.

I turned on the double pulse for remote unlocking so all three doors unlock at once. I like to throw my backpack in the hatch when I leave the house and this makes it easy.

All said and done it was much easier than I thought it would be, now I need to order some foglights.

[TinyGiant]

i think i am going to get this kit

http://trendgears.com/ebay/TacoTacoNew/Accessories/Alarm-FlipKey.jpg

[TinyGiant]

# Arming reminder and auto-rearming (programmable)
# An operation manual & installation wiring diagram included
# Central car lock automation
# Code learning and Valet mode
# Dome light supervision
# Door-open alert and Anti-hijacking
# Remote silent arm/disarm
# Remote control door lock/unlock (arm/disarm)
# Remote car finder, panic and trunk release
# Status memory when power-off
# Smart shock sensing (adjustable sensitivity)
# 100 feet remote control range
# Comes with :

Alarm remote come with blank key x2
(Keys may require modifications to fit on specific models)

Alarm system brain x1

Alarm system sensor x1

Alarm system siren x1

Alarm system wire harness

[cdaddy626]

I would like to thank Dan for creating this great DIY, installed 712t yesterday on my 2009 with no problems. Only difference to note is D3 connector on my car has more than just a black wire, there are actually 3 other wires on this connector. Also had to completely un-bundle the wires going to the 20 pin connector because there are 2 brown wires, very easy to get confused on which one is the LOCK one. I would like to send a thanks to Scott for his help via PM's as well.

[cdaddy626]

I was trying to get this to unlock all 4 doors and hatch with one press of the un-lock but I have to press it multiple times. I programmed for double pulse unlock but that doesn't work. Any ideas? Install was on 2009 and conducted exactly as per the DIY. Thanks....

[CTScott]

I was trying to get this to unlock all 4 doors and hatch with one press of the un-lock but I have to press it multiple times. I programmed for double pulse unlock but that doesn't work. Any ideas? Install was on 2009 and conducted exactly as per the DIY. Thanks....

With the double pulse unlock mode, do you hear the door locks click twice? If not, that mode may not really be selected.

I programmed my UltraStart to do the double unlock and when I press the unlock button on the remote I hear the front door click, then about a second later, the other three and the hatch click.

[Tamago]

I looked through the Yarisworld site when I joined and couldn't find all of the info I needed to add a keyless entry system to a Yaris

here you go..








































































http://www.innfusion.com/blogimages/Brick.jpg


please people, take it for what it is.. a joke....

[Russelt3hPirate]

IBBan

[cdaddy626]

With the double pulse unlock mode, do you hear the door locks click twice? If not, that mode may not really be selected.

I programmed my UltraStart to do the double unlock and when I press the unlock button on the remote I hear the front door click, then about a second later, the other three and the hatch click.

No, I don't. I went in and deactivated and then reactivated the double pulse and still have to push unlock 3 times to get all the doors to unlock..

[CTScott]

No, I don't. I went in and deactivated and then reactivated the double pulse and still have to push unlock 3 times to get all the doors to unlock..

Hmmmm. I just looked at the manual for the 712t. The only thing I can see is that maybe the double pulse time is set too short. It can be set for 0.8, 3.5, or 0.4 seconds. The default is 0.8, so try the 3.5 second option. (My ultrastart waits two seconds between the first and second pulse, and that works fine).

[cdaddy626]

Hmmmm. I just looked at the manual for the 712t. The only thing I can see is that maybe the double pulse time is set too short. It can be set for 0.8, 3.5, or 0.4 seconds. The default is 0.8, so try the 3.5 second option. (My ultrastart waits two seconds between the first and second pulse, and that works fine).

I was wondering about that setting myself, I will give it a try and see what happens. Thanks.....

[Treyz]

There used to be a DIY thread by W.A.S.P., but i guess this was deleted in the hack. It's what I used when I did mine and I hooked mine up to the horn for audible confirmation rather than just the lights.

[cdaddy626]

I like it the way it is with the exception of not being able to unlock all the doors with one press of the button. I tried changing the pulse time to 3.5 but it doesn't do anything. I give up, I guess I will just have to keep pressing the button 3 times to open all doors. Thanks to all for the suggestions.

[DanQ]

I like it the way it is with the exception of not being able to unlock all the doors with one press of the button. I tried changing the pulse time to 3.5 but it doesn't do anything. I give up, I guess I will just have to keep pressing the button 3 times to open all doors. Thanks to all for the suggestions.

Haven't been around the forum lately. Sure is alot of unrelated stuff on this tread now. Anyway, my DIY was set up for a hatchback. Something to try. Does the button on the door unlock all the doors? If it does, are you sure you tapped into that wire? This is where a sedan may be different than a LB.

[pariahdecss]

quick question on this - I installed this exact system using Dan's instructions - everything works great by remote . . . but if my passenger manually locks her/his door before exiting the vehicle, then when we return to the car the remote will not unlock the passenger's door that was locked manually. Did I do something wrong? - or is this how it works for everybody with this system? - - 09 LB - thanks

[CTScott]

quick question on this - I installed this exact system using Dan's instructions - everything works great by remote . . . but if my passenger manually locks her/his door before exiting the vehicle, then when we return to the car the remote will not unlock the passenger's door that was locked manually. Did I do something wrong? - or is this how it works for everybody with this system? - - 09 LB - thanks

Take a look at the following. The unlock wire in Dan's guide unlocks all doors with one pulse, but it confuses the car's ECU when you manually lock the door (it's fine if you lock with the remote though). If you use the lock and unlock wires shown below, the driver's door will unlock on the first pulse and all others on the second.


http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=157009&postcount=18

[pariahdecss]

I'll have to double check, but that is how it works for me. I have my remote set to double pulse so it unlocks the driver's door . . . pauses a few seconds and then you hear it unlock everything else - but I still have the manual unlock problemo - I think . . .

I will have to verify that I used the correct wires per your picture - but I did see that thread before I did my install

Thanks Scott

Mike

[cdaddy626]

Haven't been around the forum lately. Sure is alot of unrelated stuff on this tread now. Anyway, my DIY was set up for a hatchback. Something to try. Does the button on the door unlock all the doors? If it does, are you sure you tapped into that wire? This is where a sedan may be different than a LB.

I too have a hatchback, and yes the button on door unlocks all doors. Not sure if I am on the right wire, I tapped in in accordance with your DIY and CTScott's addition with using the green unlock wire.

[CTScott]

I too have a hatchback, and yes the button on door unlocks all doors. Not sure if I am on the right wire, I tapped in in accordance with your DIY and CTScott's addition with using the green unlock wire.

It sounds like there may be something wrong with your module, since it doesn't seem to actually put out the double pulse. You can use the unlock wire from DanQ's DIY if you only use the remote to lock the car.

The wire that he indicates unlocks all doors with one pulse, but if someone manually locks a door with the button before exiting, you will have to use the key to open the door.

[PatrickJohnson]

I bought the valet kit and will be attempting this next week. I'll post results...

[Treyz]

All I know is that I'll be doing this install again ... sigh ... lol as well as the fog lights too!

[hari]

I bought the kit and did the install. Works great!
Thank you DanQ and CtScott :)

[PatrickJohnson]

hell yeah! took me about an hour and the tutorial was great! thanks!

[RUFFSTUFF]

You guys have me sold... I'm going to buy a Valet 712T and do it myself when it comes in...

[RUFFSTUFF]

Are any additional parts required to connect a remote trunk release with the Valet 712T?

[CTScott]

Are any additional parts required to connect a remote trunk release with the Valet 712T?

If the Sedan's trunk release lever is mechanical (like the fuel door release), then you would need a cable actuator to trigger it.

[RUFFSTUFF]

If the Sedan's trunk release lever is mechanical (like the fuel door release), then you would need a cable actuator to trigger it.


Ok, thanks for the tip! :headbang:

[RUFFSTUFF]

The Valet 712T I ordered came in today... My 1st Yaris project awaits...

[RUFFSTUFF]

Just installed the Valet 712T... What a sweet setup! Install was pretty easy... A super big thanks to DanQ and CTScott for their help. I have the double pulse setup to unlock all the doors on one push and have no issues with manual/remote locking or unlocking... you do have to hold the button for awhile to get the panic feature going though... :eek:

[RacerFreakXXX]

Is it possible to install a factory keyless entry on our cars? I know the remotes are like $200

[jamal1984]

thanks for this, i will do this in the winter time when i have some spare times at work.

[CTScott]

Is it possible to install a factory keyless entry on our cars? I know the remotes are like $200

Yes. There have been a couple of threads on it. You can purchase the remote receiver with two remotes. The part number is in one of the threads.

[RacerFreakXXX]

o0o, great... so that's all I need? I'm going to search for those threads

[mwalls]

I looked through the Yarisworld site when I joined and couldn't find all of the info I needed to add a keyless entry system to a Yaris with power windows and door locks, so I created my own web site.

Details to install a Valet 712T in an 08 varis LB. (http://home.comcast.net/~dquicker1/site/?/page/Yaris_Keyless_Entry_DIY/) This should work for sedans as well. You can get the unit off the web for ~$40. Do the install yourself and save $50.

Let me know if this works for you.

Good Luck
Dan

I followed your directions and updates to the thread and was successful in installing an Autopage RF-225 Alarm/Keyless Entry into a 2008 Yaris Sd. While the wires for the Autopage are in a different configuration/color, I was able to cross-reference using your information and make it all work. I did find three wires on the D3 connector on the stearing column, but I verified and used the black wire as directed.

THANKS FOR ALL YOU DID IN PUTTING TOGETHER THE PROJECT AND GETTING THIS DIY FORUM GOING. MUCH HELP/MUCH APPRECATED!!!

Now I just need to find a truck actuator selonoid that will fit and work for the trunk release. The autopage provides an button and output for that. Any suggestions for a selonoid that will fit?

[silverbullet]

I just installed "keyless" using DanQ's guide and I'm thrilled with the result - total success.
I don't know if it is widely known ( I'd hate to be redundant) but the Viper 211HV is identical to the Valet 712T; functionally, electrically, and physically. And they're both made by the same company. The only difference I can see is that the 211HV has a blue status LED. The Viper 211HV is sold on bestbuy.com for $139.99 with basic installation included. I got mine on ebay for $40.00 + $8.00 shipping.
My hat is off to DanQ for providing such an elegant DIY guide and for maintaining a website for easy access. I used CTScott's green wire mod but I agree with DanQ that it is good to get into the habit of using the remote to lock the car because it arms the optional ignition cut-off (regardless if it's installed) and causes the status LED to flash.

[smell my finger]

This is going to help me big time. I've been meaning to do this for 4 years now.

[smell my finger]

Dan Q and CTScott big thanks to you. I can't believe how easy it was once I figured it out due to your guys post. I ended up using the brown and green wire and took like 10 minutes to hook up. Works great and havn't ran into any problems with it. Again thanks for the DIY!

[hangman41]

Hello All -

I really need assistance on this one. I have added power windows and power locks (remote entry) to my daughters 2007 Yaris which she got for college and had no power accessories at all.
Everything works EXCEPT the locking portion.
Using the FOB it will Unlock if starting in a locked position, but the control box doesnt even make a noise like its trying to function when you hit the Lock button on the FOB, also the red led doesnt ever light or the valet buttone seem to function. It does unlock, and the panic button as well as teh Lock button work for Panic mode if you hold them down for 5 - 10 secs. I currently have it set up as the directions told me but at this point it could be the control box, maybe the tie in of the 2 ground wires, etc etc. I installed the Avital 2101L with the smaller (blue/green) control box that connects to the wires that go to the actuators. All of the tutorials on here have been great but I cant find anything showing the wiring connections of the 2101L "brain" and the smaller control box. Maybe the "Brain" needs resetting to factory but with out the Valet button working I cant reset any of the settings at all. I have tried both FOBs and they work for the Panic alarm and the unlocking. I also hae it wired for teh horn alarm, the flashing marker lights, etc and all of that works also.
Thanks for any help you can offer and please ask away on teh questions of anything I may have missed.

[CTScott]

Hello All -

I really need assistance on this one. I have added power windows and power locks (remote entry) to my daughters 2007 Yaris which she got for college and had no power accessories at all.
Everything works EXCEPT the locking portion.
Using the FOB it will Unlock if starting in a locked position, but the control box doesnt even make a noise like its trying to function when you hit the Lock button on the FOB, also the red led doesnt ever light or the valet buttone seem to function. It does unlock, and the panic button as well as teh Lock button work for Panic mode if you hold them down for 5 - 10 secs. I currently have it set up as the directions told me but at this point it could be the control box, maybe the tie in of the 2 ground wires, etc etc. I installed the Avital 2101L with the smaller (blue/green) control box that connects to the wires that go to the actuators. All of the tutorials on here have been great but I cant find anything showing the wiring connections of the 2101L "brain" and the smaller control box. Maybe the "Brain" needs resetting to factory but with out the Valet button working I cant reset any of the settings at all. I have tried both FOBs and they work for the Panic alarm and the unlocking. I also hae it wired for teh horn alarm, the flashing marker lights, etc and all of that works also.
Thanks for any help you can offer and please ask away on teh questions of anything I may have missed.


The control box not making a sound when you try to lock it and the valet switch not working really sounds like there is an issue with the control box.

[hangman41]

The control box not making a sound when you try to lock it and the valet switch not working really sounds like there is an issue with the control box.

Yeah, thats kinda what Im thinking also. I cnat seem to find any information on the about ordering JUST that part. I may just have to ordrer a replacement set as cheaply as I can from EBay or Amazon and see.

Thanks for the reply.

[marcus]

what happen if i got oem keyless do i need a bypass to get an alarm..

[jamal1984]

i just got this done yesterday thanks to all of y'all. Everything works great, except my flashing light is not working, but i can live with that.

[KeliErons]

This may be useful to you if you are doing an install of a full alarm system or remote start.

[simon-templax]

Thank you so much DanQ & CTScott,

Today I installed a Viper 211HV keyless system on my Yaris Now 2011, and it works perfectly!!

Greentings from Rome

[auxmike]

Thanks DanQ!
I just finished installing my Viper model 211HV and your instructions are PERFECT and 100% valid and correct.
After wiring it up initially, the lights worked fine and the dash light flashed correctly, BUT the darn unlock/lock was'nt working even though I heard the relays cycling in the Viper's brain box! Problem was that there are TWO green/black wires in the harness. One is light green/black and thin, the other is green/black and fatter guage wire. I spliced in the thinner one, WRONG! You must use the FAT green/black wire. I also grounded the black and purple wires under one of the bolts that holds that black metal bar across the metal dash frame. Its a good ground and I did'nt want to fool with the factory bolt behind the kick plate.
I mounted the LED next to the power mirror adjustment controls. It's very bright and DOES look like a real alarm armed light even though there's no alarm in my car. I used one zip tie through one of the Viper's brain box's corner mounting holes and zip tied it to a cutout in the bottom right of the opening that's revealed when you drop down the plastic access hatch.
First thing I did after installing and testing for proper function was disable the self locking feature that locks the doors when the engine is turned on. I don't want to risk getting locked out of my car while it's warming up on a winter morning and I'm outside scraping the snow off the windshield...
An excellent project if you have the power pkg but RKE was'nt available as a factory feature.
A word of warning; if your not electronics savy you may want to leave this to a pro....

[auxmike]

BTW, $48 shipped from Amazon.....

[kerad84]

hi has any one done DIY for Yaris 2002?

[TickleTimeTim]

just a few questions. and sorry for thread revival yet again..

does this work on base model without purchasing actuators?
how is everyone switching the pulse from one click to two clicks?
i plan to get the Viper model 211HV, like stated above, however, several different bundles are listed on ebay, any suggestions on which is best to buy?

thank you

[CTScott]

just a few questions. and sorry for thread revival yet again..

does this work on base model without purchasing actuators?
how is everyone switching the pulse from one click to two clicks?
i plan to get the Viper model 211HV, like stated above, however, several different bundles are listed on ebay, any suggestions on which is best to buy?

thank you

If you have a base model without power lock, then no - You can control nonexistent actuators. If it is a base with power, but not keyless, then yes.

The keyless entry systems have configuration options, which allow things like single versus dual lock pulses.

On ebay the viper 211HVs are crazy cheap. Just make sure that you get one that is brand new, and not a used or theoretically refurbished one.

[yfp]

I have installed an Avital system using DanQ's instructions combined with
CTScott and SodiumDuck's addendum.....the Avital unit works perfectly....
I also installed it with the starter disabler, which required an add-on relay
available from Avital......everything works perfectly - wire colors and pinouts for connectors are the same so that all went really well....I got the Avital unit from Amazon
for $30.00 and the add-on relay from A-1 Electronics for another $10.00......
given how well ot all works and how easy it was to install (Mille Grazzi again to DanQ , CTScott and SodiumDuck) I'd have to say it was all money and time well spent!! :-)

[Shinare]

I am adding my successful completion story thanks to these excellent step by step instructions and pictures and CTScott's revision picture. Thanks for both of your efforts to make this a pretty painless process.

One note, a list of "Things you will need" complete with sizes of splice connectors, other crimp-on needs, and tools might be a helpful suggestion. I found myself looking very closely at the pictures trying to figure out what size splice thingys I needed, and I had to just put the bare wires on the grounding lug because the loop thing I needed came as a complete surprise while in the middle of the installation.

Those wires in the kick plate and under the steering wheel are SUPER tiny sized, heh. In the pictures they look normal sized but in real life they are like strands of hair in my bulky man-hands. :) I was afraid the splice thingy was going to cut through them but they didn't! Excellent work you guys!

I had to have my daughter help me as I'm color blind and it was impossible to tell the difference in some of those wires! Evidently I would never make it as an automotive electrical technician. heh

PS> I used the Viper 211 kit found on ebay. Works flawlessly.

[GAWADE]

How about a 2012? Will this work for it?
:confused:
Which kit is the best to use?

[CTScott]

How about a 2012? Will this work for it?
:confused:
Which kit is the best to use?

Like with cruise control, keyless is identical for your 2012 sedan. The 2012 sedan gets little love, as it was only sold as a fleet vehicle, so aftermarket companies don't really reference it.

As for brands, any of the DEI brands are good choices (viper, python, clifford, avital, etc.)

[GAWADE]

Interesting, I guess I can confirm that as this car was a rental vehicle originally from FL. According to CarFax...

[Darkhorse6]

been trying to figure this one out for 2 days now. I bought the avital keyless system from a-1 electric. I have an 08 yaris hatch with central locking (lock button in between the front seats)... I can get it to unlock all the doors and flash the parking lights, so everything seemed to be going well.

No matter what I do, I can't get it to lock the doors. I followed the DIY on here and connected the unlock wire to the green wire in GD1, my lock wire is connected to the thin brown wire. Is it possible the brown wire in my car doesn't carry the lock signal??

[CTScott]

been trying to figure this one out for 2 days now. I bought the avital keyless system from a-1 electric. I have an 08 yaris hatch with central locking (lock button in between the front seats)... I can get it to unlock all the doors and flash the parking lights, so everything seemed to be going well.

No matter what I do, I can't get it to lock the doors. I followed the DIY on here and connected the unlock wire to the green wire in GD1, my lock wire is connected to the thin brown wire. Is it possible the brown wire in my car doesn't carry the lock signal??

Take a look at the revised one that I put together after installing it one the first one of mine. There is an issue with this one where if you have operated the lock on the door manually, the remote will not work properly. The correct wires for lock and unlock are noted in mine (if memory serves me correctly, it is only one of the two that is incorrect):

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24860

[Darkhorse6]

Hi CTScott,

Thanks for the reply. I did find your other post and had changed my unlock wire from orange to green. So everything works for UNlocking. The lock wire in the diy and in your post is the brown wire in gd1 pjn 5. I did notice in another post in the link you provided that there may be another LOCK wire in that GD1 harness. Could that be the issue?

[CTScott]

Hi CTScott,

Thanks for the reply. I did find your other post and had changed my unlock wire from orange to green. So everything works for UNlocking. The lock wire in the diy and in your post is the brown wire in gd1 pjn 5. I did notice in another post in the link you provided that there may be another LOCK wire in that GD1 harness. Could that be the issue?

Lock is definitely the brown wire on GD1. Try touching a jumper wire from it's pin to the chassis ground bolt and if it locks when you do so, either your connection to the wire is bad or your device has a bad output relay.

[advmedic]

Hi, I just got my Yaris this week. 2009 sedan. Planning on this and cruise control first thing :) Does anyone still have the guide for this? The link is dead :(

[CTScott]

Hi, I just got my Yaris this week. 2009 sedan. Planning on this and cruise control first thing :) Does anyone still have the guide for this? The link is dead :(

Mine is still working and has some corrections to this one:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24860

[advmedic]

Mine is still working and has some corrections to this one:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24860

Thanks CTScott. Based on my preliminary browsing of these forums, you're the man!

[advmedic]

Mine is still working and has some corrections to this one:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24860

Thanks a lot. CT Scott! After a short perusal of these forums, it appears that You're the man!

[tmontague]

I ordered a keyless entry for my '08 sedan to install in a few days when my exams are over. I saved CTScott's outline of the wires which should be a big help.

I decided to go w/ the Viper 211 as I don't need the remote starter just the keyless entry.

I'll be installing it Wednesday and I wanted to check in if there was anything that I should look out for on this install? I have experience with electrical but I just want a heads up if anything comes as a surprise.

The questions I have is: I do not want the car to auto lock when the ignition is turned on. Can I just not connect that wire from the control to the car and everything else should still work fine with the system?

Also, I'd like to avoid having the issue with the keyless entry not working if the car is locked from inside. Is the manual that CTScott posted up to date in terms of the showing the correct wired to splice so that this issue doesn't happen?

Thanks guys, I'll post back with how it all goes.

[tmontague]

bump...picking it up tomorrow

[tmontague]

Alright I took some time and sat down and read through the installation manual to get the install ready for tomorrow. since Dan's DIY is no longer available on line (if anyone has it please let me know) I have a few Q's regarding the wiring.

1. Where are the input and output of dome light relay wires located? I'd like my dome light to go on when the car is unlocked so I'm assuming I need to connect both the input and output but it was not labelled in CTScotts well labelled guide.

2. In CTScotts guide at the very bottom for the keyless entry part it shows "transponder key bypass module connections" Do I need to tap into these just for a keyless entry (no remote start or alarm)? My understanding was I only need to connect the Viper Modules yellow wire to ignition so that I could get the locks to unlock when the ignition is off.

3.For the lock and unlock wire I am tapping into (the brown and green ones) on the yaris. What wires do I use from the Viper module? They have 3 unlock and 3 lock wires coming from that module. They are labelled as "lock common output, lock normally closed and lock normally open (input)" same for the unlock wires. What wires from the viper module do I need to use to connect to the yaris lock and unlock wires?

4. Where do I connect the viper blue wire "second unlock output" so that I have progressive unlocking? Does it connect to the unlock wire as well that was labelled in CTScotts guide?

5. Do I need to bother with any of the other wires that go to the ignition such as "unlock 87a normally closed" if all I want is for the ignition to unlock the locks when turned off? Or is just the yellow viper wire connected to 12v ignition adequate enough?

Thanks guys

[CTScott]

Since this thread is dead post any questions that you have on the thread for mine, so it is not spread between two threads.

[tmontague]

Since this thread is dead post any questions that you have on the thread for mine, so it is not spread between two threads.

done, http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24860&page=14 thanks CTScott

[yangluchan]

I try open
Virus alert

[ladenbrosmuk]

Since this thread is dead post any questions that you have on the thread for mine, so it is not spread between two threads.

Hey so I had a question with installing an Avital 3100LX system. Which 12v wires do I use, the 15A or the 25A? Also since my Yaris 2008 has 4 door? Do I need a relay for the lock and unlock? Thank you for your time