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07-31-2014, 05:37 AM | #1 |
Drives: 06' Yaris 1.3l Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: NZ
Posts: 46
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Jack Stands, Floor Jack and Oil Filter?
Hey there, New to Yarisworld forums and Have a few quick questions:
I've started to change my own oil on my car and some other basic maintenance. 1)With my Trolley Jack I usually jack up from the side split welds up until my "Hockey Puck" was sliced in half.... The car is also too low to jack up from the front jacking point so I'm wondering where is the best alternative place to jack up the front without bending my already screwed up Split welds.. 2) Location of Jack/Axle stands on yaris? Split welds again shouldn't be the correct location right? Some say the subframe, would that be correct? 3) Oil Filter, this is the one that annoys me the most. A lot of people (and the packaging of the oil filter) say "Hand Tight". However each and every time I go "Hand tight" there seems to be a leak when I start the engine for the first time. I then grab the Oil filter cap tool and tighten the hell out of it and the leak seems to disappear.. Is Hand tight really not tight enough or is the oil that is supposed leaking just the oil that I initially used to lube the gasket with? (I've done 2 oil changes on 2 different cars and both times this has occurred. However months after tightening the filter with the tool it seems to be fine w/out any leaks) Looking forward to seeing response. Thanks. :) |
07-31-2014, 05:57 AM | #2 |
Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,790
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Hand tight = WRONG. Look on the filter. It says tighten the filter until it makes contact with the engine block. Then turn it another 1/2 turn. Or 3/4 turn or whatever depending on the car.
What you dont want to do it turn it more than that figureing if that is good more is better! Then it will be difficult to remove. I use ramps to change my oil. While Im under there I inspect the car for dammage, leaks, and also the condition of the CV joint boots (not really necessary any more until over 100k miles)
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Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head |
07-31-2014, 06:31 AM | #3 |
Drives: Decepticon - Ravage Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,462
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I've never used ramps before but, cautious me would also put jack stands for safety.
I also put the jack and stands on the splits.
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07-31-2014, 07:05 AM | #4 |
Drives: 06' Yaris 1.3l Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: NZ
Posts: 46
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07-31-2014, 07:10 AM | #5 | |
Drives: 06' Yaris 1.3l Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: NZ
Posts: 46
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Quote:
Hmmm... never seemed to have a problem removing filter. (I have one of those cap-on wrench style removal tools - Works very well) I usually do an oil change every 5-8 thousand miles. I alternate between DIY oil change and a full service at the mechanics to make sure I ain't missing out on checking anything. I've been wanting to invest in ramps. They're around $100 per set but doubt they'd fit the yaris since no one in this country sells low profile ramps and ain't nobody got time to make their own ramps out of wood. |
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07-31-2014, 07:11 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Kansas
Posts: 871
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I made my own ramps from some leftover 2 x 10 wood leftover from a deck project. the bottom is about18" long the next is a foot long and the top is about 7" long. It creates a ramp that raises the car 6" long or so and stable as hell. It cant collapse and I put a strip of old skateboard tape on the bottom so it doesnt slide. easy, cheap and safe.
The wood is glued and screwed together. you could use another layer if you wanted the car higher too. And I've never needed to put my oil filter more than hand tight to get it to seal. Do you put a layer of oil on the gasket b4 you spin it on? you should... |
07-31-2014, 07:28 AM | #7 | |
Drives: 06' Yaris 1.3l Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: NZ
Posts: 46
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Quote:
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07-31-2014, 08:27 AM | #8 |
It's the illusion you see
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Aero Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Brossard, QC
Posts: 3,888
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hand tight is usually 3/4 turn after the seal touches the surface.
if it still leaks, do use another brand filter. i've never had issues with fram and toyota filters, but bosh premium filter leaked no matter how tight it is. Probably a crappy gasket. |
07-31-2014, 08:51 AM | #9 | |
Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,790
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Quote:
To prevent leaks make sure the rubber gasket is on the oil filter you removed. Once in a while the rubber gasket sticks to the block. Putting an oil filter on top of a stuck gasket is a sure way to have a severe oil leak. Look on Clist for ramps for less than $100. I use the old ramps Ive had for years. Just shove the fender out of the way.
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Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head |
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07-31-2014, 08:58 AM | #10 | |
Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,790
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Quote:
Theres your problem right there! Do what the box says NOT what others say!
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Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head |
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08-01-2014, 12:09 AM | #11 | |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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Quote:
My original CV boots = intact with no tears. I had huge issues with this on my GTI. Finally, after replacing tlhem myself with non OEM boots (but for the GTI) that were sort of 'flexible hard plastic' made of two (for lack of a better description) 'clamshell pieces' with a very effective glue (included) I solved the problem....and didn't even have to put a jack under the car . |
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08-03-2014, 04:32 AM | #12 | |
Drives: 06' Yaris 1.3l Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: NZ
Posts: 46
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Quote:
Travelled 180,000kms on a car owned since brand new and never replaced cv boots ^.^ |
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