OEM HU Options

[Pacman]

Hi Everyone,

I am driving my 2010 HB base model again and was looking for input on OEM head units. I'm adding a 2010-11 Camry steering wheel and airbag that has radio, blu tooth and cruise. I'll run this through a 2013 Yaris clock spring for the controls to work. Really miss my last car's steering wheel controls.

I'd like to stick with an OEM Head Unit and have been looking at the Scion 546 00140. See them on ebay for 2 bills so like the idea of having something that matches the existing opening.

End state is to have a factory looking install that works with all the buttons on the Camry steering wheel, including the voice button. Like to add Nav at some point as well, though that's pretty pricey.

My understanding is that I'll need to get an antenna adapter to match this HU. I noticed on the pin diagram there's a speed input as well. Can I tie this to the VSS in the dash? I have the blu logic system installed by the dealer, anyone know if the mic could work with the OEM HU?

Any other options anyone has had luck with?

Open to suggestions.

Thanks,
Steve

[Pacman]

So I ended up with a PT456-00140 radio out of a 14/15 Scion. Basic model with no navigation. Picked up the 2011 3 spoke Camry steering wheel with controls and airbag. Found a clock spring on ebay that has 10 pin and 4 pin connectors for the steering wheel controls and cruise switch.

Thanks to CTScott for the clutch switch and leads for coming off the spiral cable assembly.

So now the questions begin, so please feel free to chime in.

Starting with the steering wheel controls those mapped through the cable fine. The question is where to tie in the Green power side for the LED lights. The ground side already ties into the switch ground SWG on the radio. In one of the wiring diagrams on line it looks like it just goes to 12 volts, but I'm assuming that it's to a light power source or is a constant on like the dash LEDs??

Now to the radio. Most everything I need for pin outs I found in the manual CTScott posted for another similar project (again thanks to him).

The picture shows the 28 pin connector where everything comes together. I'd like to enable the speed volume which I think is Pin17 SPD. Is this a VSS signal, and where can I pull that easily? Kinda' remember seeing something about a pink wire in the dash connector. Would that work?

At some point I'd like to install the back up camera (I know small car, but I just want to). So I think pin 2 REV is connects to the reverse light switch. Any thoughts to where I can get that, under the center console on manual transmission?

Car has a BluLogic system installed by the dealer, so I'm hoping I can use that mic. Which pins would from that go to on the radio? I'm thinking pins 4,5,18 and 19?

I have the aux jack already in the car. Does anyone know where that can be connected? Guessing that would be 7 and 8? With 6 SNS2 sensing the connection?

That leaves pins 11-14 and 25-28. The last two sets I believe are for video input? Is that possible to put a composite signal in through there?

Hoping some folks have done this and know the answers. Thanks in advance for any insight.

Steve

[Pacman]

Started the upgrades this weekend and was only partially successful. Decided to do the steering wheel first, since it had the switches and cruise controls. Went fairly straight forward, used the youtube video I found referenced on here, so thanks. Connected up the cruise with the parts I got from CTScott. That went just fine, what I great thing all the wires are there, almost too easy. The 2011 Camry steering wheel had no real issues, though after I reconnected the battery started getting a SRS code 51. Again thanks to CTScott for the info on the forum that helped figure it out. Ended up that the squib connectors may not have been fully seated. The push tab was up just a smidge. Reset those and error cleared and the airbag didn't deploy in my face yay!

Moved to wiring the steering wheel button LED's and pulled power from the brown wire on the dash light dimmer. Ground is through SWG wire and checked it. Viola! success. Next came the reverse signal and the speed signal for the radio. One of the red wires on the fuse box by the kick panel for reverse and pink for VSS from the gauge cluster. Again, found all this info here on the forum, thanks to CTScott for sharing all his knowledge.

Next I added a 4K resistor to the high beam circuit, was way too bright for my taste. Nice reduction so looking forward to the next time I use it at night.

Now comes the fail. I purchased a PT456-00140 Scion Pioneer AXCP-Q14U(T10015), a USB cable, a 28 pin connector assembly and an antenna adapter. The hope was that the blulogic mic assembly would work, not so much. Went through and connected everything and radio turns on, cycles through all the functions. Radio tunes, cd plays and even connects Bluetooth to my iPhone. Problem is absolutely no volume. Turning the radio volume button and it doesn't even display the volume slider on the screen???? Steering wheel volume buttons have the same result. Though all the other functions work, on/off hook next and previous buttons. In the radio manual (found here as well, thanks CTScott) it shows the diagnostic screens so ran through those and the only error that showed hands free microphone error. Unfortunately the Blulogic setup is only 2 wire and the T10015 needs 5 wires. So I ordered the PT546-74120-MC which should work. My hope is that error codes are preventing the radio working. Fingers crossed.

So overall, made some progress, but the big part isn't working yet so fail Hoping the mic fixes it. Open to other suggestions.

[ercdvs]

Can i ask where / how much you spent on the camry steering wheel & airbag ? I would love to do a similar upgrade

[Pacman]

Hi ercdvs. It was all on ebay. The steering wheel was $50 or little less. The airbag came from LKQ. Went to their store and found several listed and chose the cheapest about $90. The clock spring was from queens auto parts (NY) and was a multi fit (including Camry) and was like $26. All prices included shipping. Really like the set up though the dark gray is not quite the same as the rest of the Yaris interior. Not noticeable except in really bright sunlight and looking at where the steering wheel and column cover meet. Well worth it especially since I got cruise control out of it.

Got the stereo at LKQ too ($240ish plus tax). But may be a fail swap, someone else tried this radio and couldn't get it to work.

Wondering if I have to have the mic and CAN TX1+/- connected????

[Pacman]

Went back to look at the radio problem. Just didn't make sense that I have power and functionality, just no sound. Came across the connector diagram for the Fujitsu Ten stock radio (CTScott again) and got to thinking this almost acts like a telephone mute signal. Decided to start comparing what's in the Yaris versus the 10 + 6 pin diagrams for both radios. Of course one diagram was radio view and the other was connector view so took a minute to reverse one so they oriented the same way. Then looked at the harness in the car and sure enough there was a black wire going into position 8 which is marked as ANT+B below. On the T10015 radio this is showing as no connection. Measured the harness and there was no voltage but did show 6K resistance to ground. Hmmmmm..... Popped the pin out of the connector plugged everything back in and......


still no sound.

Turned the key off and checked connections turned the key on and radio went straight to the last audio mode it was in. Hmmmmm..... that's different. Pushed the voice command button and from my speakers came a little beep. Wait that's new. Turned the volume and look... it changed volume numbers on the screen. Wait that's new. Kept turning and ....

VIOLA!!!! Let there be tuneage. Actually sounded pretty good, connected to my iPhone played some music from there. Steering wheel switches seem to be working though I don't have the Bluetooth mic yet so haven't checked that phone piece yet.

Still not sure why that black wire is there or what it goes to. Can't imagine there's a powered antenna for any reason. Might be wrong. Maybe CTScott can chime in whether I really need it connected to anything??? 'bout the only slot left on the connector is pin 9 AMP+B.

Lesson learned: Don't assume wires are what you think they are and draw out your wiring taking into account which perspective (connector or radio) you are using.

At least the radio is easy to put in a take out. Now on to the finalizing the wiring on the 28 pin connector and backup camera.

[Pacman]

Now that I have some sound I moved on to add the rest of the connections. Found I had deduced some wrong connection in the earlier post on the 28 pin connector. So I'll correct them now that things are starting to work.
The car had an existing aux jack so cut off the old radio connector and wired it as follows:
Pin 28 Red Wire (part of shielded set) Aux Right +
Pin 27 Black Wire (part of shielded set) Aux -
Pin 26 White Wire (part of shielded set) Aux Left +
Pin 25 Red Wire (not shielded) ADPG
Pin 11 Gray Wire AGND

This set up works and the radio makes AUX available when you plug something into the jack.

Pins 7,8 are for CANBus stuff so not used here.

Pins 4,5,6,18 and 19 are for the Bluetooth microphone. I have one on order so haven't tried this yet.

I purchased a USB cable for the port on the back of the radio and it works but is very choppy when playing music, though it does charge my iPhone. I've seen this in other vehicles before, so not sure why that is.

I purchased one of the aftermarket backup cameras on ebay. It came with the correct 16 pin connector to connect to the radio. Plugged it in and nothing when I put the vehicle in reverse. The diagnostic mode for the radio shows the car in reverse. The power from the radio goes to 6 volts to try and detect the camera but no joy. Checked the resistance of the cables with the kit and the long extension is showing 1700 ohms between video + and video -. Don't think that's good so have asked the seller for new cable or refund.

Overall very pleased with the radio other than the USB thing. Interesting note is that you can select which vehicle the radio is in from the setup menu. It makes a difference in sound quality. Ended up keeping it as a Scion XB, seems to be the best sound for the Yaris, but then again my hearing isn't very in tune so your results may differ.

Now if I can just find a way to hack the radio to get rid of the scion startup screen.

[Pacman]

I was thinking about that black wire that caused my issues. It appears to act as a telephone mute on the T10015 radio. So..... instead of buying the OEM navigation unit what if I put a relay/switch on the black wire triggered by a Garmin audio output to mute the radio for the nav voice prompts???? Since stand alone nav units can't tie into the Bluetooth and send prompts, this might be a solution???

[kennyPL]

Great job Pacman! :)

I'm following this topic coz I'm gonna swap my OEM radio to PZQ60-00511 or similar in my 2003 echo, and need motivation ;)

[Pacman]

Luck to you KennyPL. It's well worth the result for me at least.

Things are progressing fine, still waiting for camera replacement. The ebayer I bought from was good and let me leave the 16 pin harness in the car and they would test the camera.

Ordered a PT546-74120MC microphone from a Toyota parts store and they sub'd a PT546-NU160 as the later version. Actually is a little smaller kind of square instead of teardrop shaped. However it was on an 8 pin connector and I couldn't find the pin outs for either part number. To top it off when I pulled the wire sockets out of the connector they wouldn't fit the 28 pin connector. DOH! Had to build a solution out of other wires and connectors to tie the two together. Figured the light color wire would be high side and darker color would be low side. Took only 9 tries with careful notes to get it right. So here's what worked.
28 Pin connector Microphone Wire
Pin 6 SNS2 Pink mic wire
Pin 5 MIN+ Orange mic wire
Pin 4 MACC Yellow mic wire
Pin 19 MIN- Green mic wire
Pin 18 SGND Blue mic wire

Ran the microphone wire under the dash cover, up the a piller and mounted it on the overhead light console. The mic itself covers up the faux slots in the center of the assembly. The way the wire runs into the microphone it can be positioned so that it's not seen and runs vertically into the housing.

By the way found that the perfect tool for taking the pins/sockets out of the connectors was a dental hygiene scraper tool that fits in the disengagement slot. Works pretty good.

[Dodge Aries K]

So wait a second... you're using a 6th generation Camry steering wheel in a Yaris without an issue? If that's the case, no more icky 3 spoke wheel for me for my Yaris sedan!