Car Won't Move... Help!

[RYar]

The car won't budge, and I'm almost certain it is the driver's side rear brake drum that has locked up. I know this because after trying to rock the car back and forth to break it free it left drag marks on the asphalt.

Why is this happening to a car that has only 15K on it???

Any suggestions on how to get the car to roll free again?

[YAR1S]

try and get the drum cover off and take a look??
That's what I'd do.

[RYar]

Originally Posted by YAR1S

try and get the drum cover off and take a look??
That's what I'd do.

Thanks YAR1S...
How do I get the drum off with the shoes engaged?... Hammer? I'm just worried about the drum surface. Or does it really make a difference?

[YAR1S]

hmmmmm I dont want to suggest something that may hurt your car but if you did want to remove your drum (and please someone butt in if I am totally wrong for suggesting this?)

take off your wheel and use a M8(or maybe 10) in the bolt holes in the center and gentily screw them in while slightly tapping.

[sqcomp]

This is covered under warranty correct? Take it to the dealer. I know I'd do that first thing.

[RYar]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

This is covered under warranty correct? Take it to the dealer. I know I'd do that first thing.

Hmmm. Didn't even think of that. I'll have to look into that. I don't want to touch it if it is under warranty. I don't have perks like that on my 20 year old primary car.

Thanks peoples!

[jambo101]

What makes you eliminate the possibility of a locked up tranny?
Is it Auto or manual?

[MadMax]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

This is covered under warranty correct? Take it to the dealer. I know I'd do that first thing.

Errrr...take another look at the title of this thread: Car Won't Move...Help! Kinda hard to take it to the dealer when it won't move!

However, I agree that a call to the dealer is in order. They need to retrieve the car and fix whatever is keeping it from moving.

And because he said "after trying to rock the car back and forth to break it free it left drag marks on the asphalt," I don't think it is a locked-up transmission. Definitely sounds like a stuck brake caliber/pad...

Good luck!

Cheers! M2

[RYar]

Originally Posted by jambo101

What makes you eliminate the possibility of a locked up tranny?
Is it Auto or manual?

It is a manual, and it is the rear wheel that is locking up.

Originally Posted by MadMax

Errrr...take another look at the title of this thread: Car Won't Move...Help! Kinda hard to take it to the dealer when it won't move!

Haha. I don't even know how they would tow it without a flatbed... Good times.

[bronsin]

Gee I really want to hear what the dealer finds out when they fix this problem. Its unusual to say the least. I think you can get at the adjustment mechinism from the back of the wheel without taking the drum off. So you could loosen the brakes to make it getting the drum off easier. Im thinking something in there has come loose to cause this.

[DARK AGE 53]

that sucks, being it's under warranty I'd have it towed to the dealer...keep us informed on what the problem was.

Later,
Al

[yarrr]

Was the car sitting for a while before this? Or did you drive it the day before and it locked up the next morning? Have you gotten much snow lately? Stock wheels and suspension?

Checking drums - chock the wheels so it can't roll(although i guess that's not a huge risk here :P ), take off the e-brake, jack the car up, take the wheel off, the drum should just pull off. If it doesn't that's probably your problem. As bronsin said you can try to adjust the rears down, there's a little rubber cover on the back of the drum. Pull that off and stick a screwdriver in and try to turn the little gear in there. If that doesn't work you can tap the drum with a hammer, just don't get too crazy. Tap it and rock it back and forth. If it takes too much work, the drum is either seized or rusted shut, you should probably take it to a mechanic at this point.

If the drum comes off and the shoes look like they still have some life left(not metal on metal), my only other guess is a wheel bearing, but usually they don't just lock up, they get really noisy before they completely die.

AAA should flatbed it to a dealer if all else fails.

[sbergman27]

Originally Posted by RYar

The car won't budge, and I'm almost certain it is the driver's side rear brake drum that has locked up.

You might want to jack it up, take off that wheel, and make sure there's not a floor mat jammed in there. Sometimes it happens.

Sorry. Couldn't resist.

When you pull the parking brake lever, does it feel normal? I'm not sure if there's any access to the parking brake cables from under the car... but I'm wondering if there might be unexpected tension... or an unusual amount of slack... in the driver's side portion of the cable when the parking brake lever is set to off.

Out of curiousity, does this have ABS?

But calling the dealer is probably the best idea. Do they not bear some responsibility for getting the car into their shop if it is immobile through some defect/failure of the warranties equipment? Tell them that if they don't come get it you're going to Channel 4 News with your Toyota Horror Story. ;-)

-Steve

[YarisSedan]

Very quick easy way to verify this is jack it up and try to spin the wheels by hand. The car should drive but have a tire screeching sound. Ive removed wheels on a car with a locked up rear drum before. It tore the pins off and ripped the shoes when the drum came off. Drum fell and hit the ground and broke it was a nightmare. if the shoes are locked to the drum its pretty near impossible to remove without damaging something. Best take it to the shop.

If they are not to siezed you can use the 2 threaded bolt holes and start tightening as the drum starts to come out bang the drum with a rubber mallet to hopelly brake loose the shoes and kept adjusting. If the drum is halfway off but is still hard chances are the pins are gona break if you keep going but at this point you have no choice.

[Yaris Hilton]

Same thing happened night before last with my minivan that hadn't been driven for a couple of months. Parking brake on the right rear wheel didn't release when I pulled the handle. I felt a bit of extra drag backing out and figured I'd play with the brake when I got it out of the driveway. As it went into the street, it released with a pop. Left a black mark where the tire had slid, which I didn't expect. I thought it was just dragging a bit. Problem's corrosion from moisture and not using it regularly. The brakes always get rusted on the friction surfaces and make funny noises and pulsation from uneven rusting when first driven after a period of inactivity.

[auxmike]

One morning two or three weeks ago I started my car, released the handbrake and put the car into reverse (A/T). I expected the car to roll back on it's own under the initial cold start high idle, but it did'nt. When I blipped the throttle to get it moving back it felt like the wheels were chocked for a split second, then broke free. Never happened again, thank God.
It was after those huge rains we had in the North East, BTW.

FWIW, last weekend I pulled both drums and saw no issues. Everything was super clean and not even a hint of rust.I used two bolts and GENTLY eased them out. These Yaris drums don't just slide off by hand, be prepared for some coaxing!
My '84 Honda Prelude from days past had an issue where the water would collect inside the cables and rust everything tight. Time will tell if the Yaris will have the same plague.....

[bronsin]

[QUOTE=
My '84 Honda Prelude from days past had an issue where the water would collect inside the cables and rust everything tight. Time will tell if the Yaris will have the same plague.....[/QUOTE]

For this reason NEVER put on the parking brake in winter. If water gets inside the cables it will freeze and keep the brakes on so the car cant be moved. The only cure is a prolonged stay in a heated garage...

[sbergman27]

Originally Posted by bronsin

For this reason NEVER put on the parking brake in winter. If water gets inside the cables it will freeze and keep the brakes on so the car cant be moved. The only cure is a prolonged stay in a heated garage...

Actually... I'd kinda like to know early if water is getting into the casing. It will eventually rust solid.

-Steve