Toyota OEM Camber Bolt Part # - Toyota Yaris Forums

DeathBeard · 09-28-2012, 02:10 PM

Hi All,

thought this would be useful for those looking for a OEM option on adding some negative camber, IMO which this car deseperately needs. The most aggressive negative camber Toyota offers is with part # 90109-15004.. I had a tough time getting this print out as most Toyota parts people have the intelligence of concrete cinder blocks. When installing these I would recommend loading your suspension with a floor jack before tightening.

DeathBeard · 09-28-2012, 02:25 PM

when I get some coilovers, most likely megans I will definately be slotting the top hole

DeathBeard · 11-20-2012, 06:42 PM

Toyota part number 90109-15004 on top, this will give you nearly 2 deg of neg reliably, it's an oem part! And they are only $4 each!

NJ Drive · 11-20-2012, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeathBeard

Toyota part number 90109-15004 on top, this will give you nearly 2 deg of neg reliably, it's an oem part! And they are only $4 each!

I'm using one 90109-15004 per side, on stock springs, and was able to get anywhere between -1.3° to -1.6°.

-2.0° would be a bit of a stretch.

DeathBeard · 11-20-2012, 11:00 PM

-1.3 seems strangely low for this bolt..My first reading with these was -1.7, after messing around with it and loading the strut with a floor jack I was able to get -1.9, I would consider that pretty close to -2.0, right??

DeathBeard · 11-21-2012, 04:51 PM

took my measurements again today and the front is -1.9

DeathBeard · 11-21-2012, 05:01 PM

front no longer rubs

NJ Drive · 11-21-2012, 07:09 PM

You are not on stock springs and/or stock ride height, correct?

DeathBeard · 11-21-2012, 07:21 PM

ride height does not effect camber w/ mcpherson strut design, only double wishbone does

Jason@SportsCar · 11-21-2012, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeathBeard

no but macphesron strut is not depedant on that, only double wishbone is

Not entirely true... The lower arm is not flat at stock ride height, and the car will gain camber to a point as you lower it and the arm flattens out.

DeathBeard · 11-21-2012, 08:51 PM

I see your point Jason, I hadn't thought of the lower arm angle...I was visualizing only camber plates or crash bolts

Thebigwicks · 05-01-2015, 01:55 AM

Just picked up a set and hadn't really go a chance to fool with them yet. So do you just install them on the top hole and that's all? Still don't understand how they work.

Caramanos2000 · 05-01-2015, 11:18 AM

Got these today for $8 at the stealership. Anyways they work by letting you push the wheel in at the top. This happens because the outside diameter is smaller and thereby gives you some "play room".

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thebigwicks

Just picked up a set and hadn't really go a chance to fool with them yet. So do you just install them on the top hole and that's all? Still don't understand how they work.

CrankyOldMan · 05-01-2015, 11:56 AM

The stock bolts should be the ones without dots. You replace both bolts with the new ones (3 dots) and tilt the hub as far in as you can, then snug the nuts over them. I suggest taking it to an alignment shop and have them set it as negative as possible, with the castor and toe set to nominal if possible.

The chart below shows how to mix and match OEM bolts to get a desired camber from a known configuration or offset. The green box is the default OEM setup. If you want to get -1.5°, you need set F, which is 2x 90109-15004.

Thebigwicks · 05-01-2015, 04:16 PM

Okay, that makes sense. I picked up part number 90109-15004 and I have never changed any bolts. So it's safe to say that I have the regular or own setup still unless there was variation from year to year. I plan on installing the bolts on the top holes of each side. Sound about right?

CrankyOldMan · 05-01-2015, 04:45 PM

For maximum camber, you use them in the top and bottom. I don't see the combination you're suggesting in the tables, so it's either redundant with another combo or does very little.

Thebigwicks · 05-05-2015, 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan

For maximum camber, you use them in the top and bottom. I don't see the combination you're suggesting in the tables, so it's either redundant with another combo or does very little.

Ill mess with them tomorrow and post my results. just have to figure out how to measure camber correctly now. Ill get an alignment so maybe ill just take the readings from there...

Ben_ · 05-06-2015, 11:46 PM

I'm starting to look at using OE bolts for camber for racing application. I would like -3 using OE bolts and/or other procedures documented by the OE (as per scca rules) which could be making the mounting holes larger. My suspension is stock otherwise

11-20-2012, 11:00 PM	#5
DeathBeard Drives: 2010 Yaris S Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 574	-1.3 seems strangely low for this bolt..My first reading with these was -1.7, after messing around with it and loading the strut with a floor jack I was able to get -1.9, I would consider that pretty close to -2.0, right?? __________________ "In his heart a man plans his course, but the Lord determines his steps." Proverbs 16:9 Last edited by DeathBeard; 11-20-2012 at 11:23 PM.

11-21-2012, 07:21 PM	#9
DeathBeard Drives: 2010 Yaris S Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 574	ride height does not effect camber w/ mcpherson strut design, only double wishbone does __________________ "In his heart a man plans his course, but the Lord determines his steps." Proverbs 16:9

11-21-2012, 08:51 PM	#11
DeathBeard Drives: 2010 Yaris S Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 574	I see your point Jason, I hadn't thought of the lower arm angle...I was visualizing only camber plates or crash bolts __________________ "In his heart a man plans his course, but the Lord determines his steps." Proverbs 16:9 Last edited by DeathBeard; 11-21-2012 at 09:14 PM.

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11-21-2012, 07:09 PM	#8
NJ Drive Drives: 2012 Yaris SE Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Northern NJ Posts: 179	You are not on stock springs and/or stock ride height, correct?

05-01-2015, 01:55 AM	#12
Thebigwicks Drives: 2008 lowered yaris on 17's Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Louisiana Posts: 188	Just picked up a set and hadn't really go a chance to fool with them yet. So do you just install them on the top hole and that's all? Still don't understand how they work.

05-01-2015, 04:16 PM	#15
Thebigwicks Drives: 2008 lowered yaris on 17's Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Louisiana Posts: 188	Okay, that makes sense. I picked up part number 90109-15004 and I have never changed any bolts. So it's safe to say that I have the regular or own setup still unless there was variation from year to year. I plan on installing the bolts on the top holes of each side. Sound about right?

05-01-2015, 04:45 PM	#16
CrankyOldMan 2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how! View User's Garage Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: West Michigan Posts: 2,333	For maximum camber, you use them in the top and bottom. I don't see the combination you're suggesting in the tables, so it's either redundant with another combo or does very little.

05-06-2015, 11:46 PM	#18
Ben_ View User's Garage Drives: 2010 Yaris Hatch Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: SLC, UT Posts: 269	I'm starting to look at using OE bolts for camber for racing application. I would like -3 using OE bolts and/or other procedures documented by the OE (as per scca rules) which could be making the mounting holes larger. My suspension is stock otherwise