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07-30-2009, 11:01 PM | #1 |
Drives: YARIS Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: AZ
Posts: 3
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How to diy ac belt
My belt is screaming when ac is turned on. I was told it needs to be replaced but not going to pay 120 dollars when i bought the belt for 15. Just need some guide on how to replace it. pics would be a big help also. Thanks for time and any help you can give.
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07-31-2009, 01:27 AM | #2 |
If I remember correctly all you should need to do is loosen the bolt on the top of the alternator and push forward. It should just slide off after that. If anybody wishes to add or correct me please do. It's been awhile . Also you should mark where the bolt was so that you can tighten it back to where it was. I just went outside and took a picture for you.
You'll notice the red marker on mine that the dealership drew showing where it was when they got it when my power steering wasn't working. They tried to blame that as the problem but it turned out to be a failed unit(forgot what it was called) near the battery terminal. So make sure you make it tight enough so the dealership won't try and blame you for a problem if you bring it in. FYI and a mechanic was the last person to touch my alt not me |
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07-31-2009, 05:48 PM | #3 |
Drives: '07 Yaris HB Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sudbury, Canada
Posts: 520
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Do you need any special tools? IE: belt tension gauge or something? I know there must be some specification to how tight it must be.
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07-31-2009, 09:50 PM | #4 |
no should just be loosen that bolt (pointed to with red arrow in pic above) and get something like a crow bar/handle to the floor jack and leverage it against the engine and push the alternator out/towards the bumper to increase tension OR you can hit the top of the alternator with a hammer til its in the right place... sometimes these things A LOT of force, can't really hurt it by whacking it
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08-01-2009, 12:36 AM | #5 | |
'07 to '12:2 wipers to 1?
Drives: '12 5-door LE & '14 5-door LE Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,999
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Quote:
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08-10-2009, 11:47 AM | #6 | |
Drives: '08 5-door Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Surrey, BC Canada
Posts: 176
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Quote:
As pointed out elsewhere, you have to loosen the base bolt(s) as well as the adjusting bolt on top - the alternator can easily be moved by hand then. Tighten to specs, then tighten the top bolt, then the base bolt(s). |
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08-11-2009, 09:35 AM | #7 | |
Drives: Yaris Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 355
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Quote:
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08-01-2009, 11:42 AM | #8 |
Sure! To get mine to move I also loosened the bolt underneath the alternator and sprayed everything with pb blaster
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08-06-2009, 10:38 PM | #9 |
Drives: YARIS Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: AZ
Posts: 3
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I loosened that bolt in the pic above and tried moving it and it wouldnt budge. The other bolt you referred to as loosing also where would that be located, there are several bolts that i can see looking down? Did you use something to move that might work better than the backside of a hammer? THanks for all the replies above. Just need a little more help to get this completed.
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08-06-2009, 11:01 PM | #10 | |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
The belt deflection spec is 7 to 8.5 mm for a new belt and 11 to 13, once the belt has been run. Alternator.jpg |
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08-09-2009, 10:23 PM | #11 |
You just bought this belt, it sounds to me like you just need it tightened up some.
Is this the same place that sold ya the new belt??? Go to different shop and ask them to tighten the belt, DO NOT ask them to check the belt, if you need a new belt they will say so, if you dont they will tighten yours. If you go in a shop and ask them to check the belt, they are going to sell you a belt. These belts should be good for a long time, if it has been slipping a long time it might be bad. Bad belts have cracks and/or missing pieces and/or lots of glazing (belt is shiny). |
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08-09-2009, 10:27 PM | #12 |
NM miss read the OP.
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08-11-2009, 12:25 PM | #13 |
'07 to '12:2 wipers to 1?
Drives: '12 5-door LE & '14 5-door LE Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,999
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THE LAST TWO POSTS (AND THIS ONE) NEED TO BE DELETED BEFORE THIS THREAD GETS TURNED INTO A FLAME WAR. I don't think they add anything to the topic at hand, just negativity.
I already stated that it would be wise to use a rubber mallet (if the alt) is stubborn. PLUS Morgan did a retrofit charger on her car so please do not attack her mechanical prowess. |
08-11-2009, 01:43 PM | #14 | |
Drives: 2013 Chevy Spark 1LT 5-speed Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,185
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Quote:
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08-12-2009, 12:14 AM | #15 | |
Drives: '08 5-door Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Surrey, BC Canada
Posts: 176
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Quote:
Here's another bit of free advice (I spent years working as an auto electric mechanic, so I've tightened a lot of alternators.) When you're prying on an alternator to adjust the belt tension, make sure that your pry bar only contacts the front housing, which is thick and strong enough to take it. Putting a lot of force on a rear housing can very easily crack it, or even shatter it. |
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08-11-2009, 01:23 PM | #16 |
Drives: '07 Yaris HB Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sudbury, Canada
Posts: 520
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How can you gauge the belt deflection spec? Is there a tool?
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08-11-2009, 01:36 PM | #17 |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
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There are tools called belt tension gauges. They are either generic ones that measure torque in ft lbs or in lbs or they are manufacturer specific ones. The mfg specific ones are calibrated for a specific amount of force. You press the spring loaded gauge against the belt and read the scale.
I personally don't own one. For something like the spec above, I press against the center of the belt span with one finger and look for about that much deflection. |
08-12-2009, 01:01 PM | #18 | |
Drives: '07 Yaris HB Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sudbury, Canada
Posts: 520
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Quote:
I'll try the finger press thing and see. |
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