DIY Cruise Control on 07-08 Yaris (step by step)

[flutie98]

well darn, I feel like an idiot now. Thanks CTScott

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by flutie98

well darn, I feel like an idiot now. Thanks CTScott

Don't - The first time I tried to pop a pin I did everything short of chewing on the connector. I had no clue that every connector has a locking mechanism until I read it in the service manual.

[flutie98]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Don't - The first time I tried to pop a pin I did everything short of chewing on the connector. I had no clue that every connector has a locking mechanism until I read it in the service manual.

Just out of curiosity where in the service manual does it depict this locking mechanism for A21?

EDIT: Just seated the terminal correctly, thanks again!

[julienrl]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Can you snap some pictures? There are three pins for the A21 connector. 82998-24250 is the smallest width of the three. The two others are for the wider width pins.

Also, the pin will only fully insert in one position. If it is flipped over, it will go in most of the way, but will not seat.

where do you buy this wire using the part number?

[Soylentglass]

Originally Posted by flutie98

Just out of curiosity where in the service manual does it depict this locking mechanism for A21?

EDIT: Just seated the terminal correctly, thanks again!

Just in case you are still curious, I found examples of locking mechanisms in the wiring diagram manual, page 14 through 16. Page 14 on the bottom left has some nice figures of a terminal with the "terminal retainer" both in the lock position and the "temporary" lock position, which is where I think a small piece of the terminal contacts the back of the retainer and holds it in place, but not as firmly as when you put the retainer in the lock position. There doesn't seem to be an example of a connector just like A21, but in the last figure on page 16 the connector on the left seems to have a somewhat similar retainer. Also, the third figure down on page 15 shows a terminal inserted into a connector with the waterproofing sleeve on it.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by julienrl

where do you buy this wire using the part number?

You can order it through your local dealer or from TRDsparks.com

[opt101]

I got my oem connector with lead on it yesterday (local dealer had a list of 14 and change, but was able to get 20% through my dealings with them through work), and thankfully saw the above posts on how to open the lock mech, worked like a charm, hopefully someone updates the how to to include this new info! Thanks again for all your help guys!

[par4j]

Just installed on my wife's 2007 Yaris... It worked first time... and i am not good with this type of stuff. Thanks again guys for all your hard work on this... Saved a bundle...

[Vince87]

I just received my insulated wire from trdsparks... I will update the DIY this week end so that nobody breaks his A21 connector while trying to fit it... Thanks again to CTScott for figuring this one out (what would we do without you?) !

[Taboolie]

From reading the posts in this thread, it appears as though this does indeed work however I'm curious why the Rostra kit has is so complex in comparison?

I mean really, if it was just as easy as running one wire through the firewall why would they bother with all of the other ones?

Is it that the Rostra one supports many models & years and this DIY trick is only for the 07 and 08?

Also, I'm not sure if anyone answered this already, but would there be any reason I couldn't purchase an OEM cruise stalk and use the wires from this with this method?

If it's safe and works then I'd rather spend $25 on the OEM stalk and a couple of bucks on some wire then $250-500 for an aftermarket kit.

Thanks

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Taboolie

From reading the posts in this thread, it appears as though this does indeed work however I'm curious why the Rostra kit has is so complex in comparison?

I mean really, if it was just as easy as running one wire through the firewall why would they bother with all of the other ones?

Is it that the Rostra one supports many models & years and this DIY trick is only for the 07 and 08?

Also, I'm not sure if anyone answered this already, but would there be any reason I couldn't purchase an OEM cruise stalk and use the wires from this with this method?

If it's safe and works then I'd rather spend $25 on the OEM stalk and a couple of bucks on some wire then $250-500 for an aftermarket kit.

Thanks

Rostra makes kits for many vehicles. When they designed the Yaris one, they probably just used their standard method. Who'd have thunk that Toyota would build in the functionality, but just not put the stalk there to use it.

[CB900F2]

Hey guys and CTScott..

I assume based on the interchangeable parts that this kit from the CruiseControl store will fully work with our Yaris which is for the 08 Corolla?...

The kit includes the stalk and wire harness?

I know it is expensive, but since it has the cutting tool to cut the hole in the trim for the stalk to go through I am considering it..

http://www.cruisecontrolstore.com/ez...3/250-1768%20C

P.S... The switch to turn on the cruise control on the stalk, it is a mechanical switch to where it stays in when turned on, or a digital switch to where when pressed, it sends the signal to the ECU to which turns on the dash indicator?... Since I don’t have the dash indicator, I would rely on the switch to let me know if the cruise is on or off

thanks guys!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by CB900F2

Hey guys and CTScott..

I assume based on the interchangeable parts that this kit from the CruiseControl store will fully work with our Yaris which is for the 08 Corolla?...

The kit includes the stalk and wire harness?

I know it is expensive, but since it has the cutting tool to cut the hole in the trim for the stalk to go through I am considering it..

http://www.cruisecontrolstore.com/ez...3/250-1768%20C

P.S... The switch to turn on the cruise control on the stalk, it is a mechanical switch to where it stays in when turned on, or a digital switch to where when pressed, it sends the signal to the ECU to which turns on the dash indicator?... Since I don’t have the dash indicator, I would rely on the switch to let me know if the cruise is on or off

thanks guys!

Now that is crazy expensive. You can buy the lower cover with the hole already in it for about $15 (part number 45184-52130-B0) and an ebay stalk for well under $50.

As for the indicator, the switch is a momentary input to the ECM, so on 07-08's there is no indicator. I designed a circuit using a small microprocessor to see the button press and be able to distinguish between the on/off and the other buttons being pressed. Nickjhort installed and is using my prototype one. Cruz_gsr contacted me this week about getting one made, so I built some production ones and have been meaning to post a thread with them for sale. Below is a picture of the module. There is a panel mount blue LED for the indicator (that just requires a 1/4" hole). Two of the three wires are connected to the stalk (or switches for the full DIY version) and the third is connected to the ignition switched wire on the keyswitch. The modules are $25 shipped to the US and $30 shipped to Canada.


CC Indicator Module.jpg

CC Indicator.jpg

[Antipilor]

Hmm I got all done with it and I get nothing when I push any of my switches. However, I definately have power going to the switches and my ground seems to work just fine, however I didn't have the correct resistors so I tried to pair them to get in range and I have a strong feeling I misread one or simply added wrong. I'll order the correct resistors and replace the ones I have and see if it works. On the upside me and my dad did this over the weekend and my car still works perfectly.

[Taboolie]

Well I bit the bullet and ordered the kit from trdsparks. Figured $200 is a heck of a lot cheaper then $450-500 from the dealer. Plus I'll get the nice stalk with an indicator light.

What pushed me over the edge was I took a close look at the instrument cluster and couldn't see a cruise indicator. '07 HB with power package :(

Plus I drove 500km on Sat and my foot and leg cramped up big time! Cruise it is! :)

My on and only concern is the location of the connector near the transmission the instructions refer to, I'm sure I'll find it eventually but right now I have NO idea where that thing is.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Taboolie

Well I bit the bullet and ordered the kit from trdsparks. Figured $200 is a heck of a lot cheaper then $450-500 from the dealer. Plus I'll get the nice stalk with an indicator light.

What pushed me over the edge was I took a close look at the instrument cluster and couldn't see a cruise indicator. '07 HB with power package :(

Plus I drove 500km on Sat and my foot and leg cramped up big time! Cruise it is! :)

My on and only concern is the location of the connector near the transmission the instructions refer to, I'm sure I'll find it eventually but right now I have NO idea where that thing is.

You must have bought the Rostra kit, if the instructions involve a connection at the transmission. The Rostra kit has a far more complicated set of instructions than our DIY method. The only gain with the Rostra kit is the indicator LED on the stalk.

As you noticed, the 07-08's don't have the cluster indicator. My Cruise Indicator Module that I mentioned above adds the indicator to 07-08's (and you place the indicator where you want it) with far less labor than installing the Rostra kit.

[nickhjort]

I would totally go with CTScott's method with the Indicator Module. It's cheap and looks just as good as the Kits, or OEM installation. As long as you place the LED where you want it. I actually put mine in the Gauge Cluster to make it look more OEM, but I think it looks better than OEM myself. I'm sure if you take the time and have the skill you could scratch the OEM icon on the black cluster cover and it would look totally OEM.

The module does exactly what it says in the "CAN WE DO THIS" thread post #398. The light comes on for 1 second on power up and then works like a charm when in use. I equipped it with a white "12V ready" LED, but you can use whatever color you want.

I've noticed only one thing with your Module CTScott. When I hit the on/off switch two times really fast the CC reads two pushes, but the Module only reads one and actually inverts the LED. So you have to hit it again twice really fast to reset it. Also when I turn on my HID headlights there is a quick power drain that resets the module (the light comes on for a second and then the LED is reversed again because the drain doesn't reset the CC) But this only happens if I turn my CC on before the headlights. So if I hit the lights first I have no problems.

It's totally invisible until you hit the switch...see that little white dot?


Video of it working...
http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/f...t=CIMG7073.flv

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by nickhjort

I would totally go with CTScott's method with the Indicator Module. It's cheap and looks just as good as the Kits, or OEM installation. As long as you place the LED where you want it. I actually put mine in the Gauge Cluster to make it look more OEM, but I think it looks better than OEM myself. I'm sure if you take the time and have the skill you could scratch the OEM icon on the black cluster cover and it would look totally OEM.

The module does exactly what it says in the "CAN WE DO THIS" thread post #398. The light comes on for 1 second on power up and then works like a charm when in use. I equipped it with a white "12V ready" LED, but you can use whatever color you want.

I've noticed only one thing with your Module CTScott. When I hit the on/off switch two times really fast the CC reads two pushes, but the Module only reads one and actually inverts the LED. So you have to hit it again twice really fast to reset it. Also when I turn on my HID headlights there is a quick power drain that resets the module (the light comes on for a second and then the LED is reversed again because the drain doesn't reset the CC) But this only happens if I turn my CC on before the headlights. So if I hit the lights first I have no problems.

It's totally invisible until you hit the switch...see that little white dot?


Video of it working...
http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/f...t=CIMG7073.flv

The quick press issue is due to switch deboucning. I found that the radio shack switches require almost 100ms of debouncing. With higher quality switches the debouncing can be significantly reduced.

I can't believe that the HIDs draw it down that much. You may want to consider a heftier battery or you might run into some problems. In doing some experimentation I found that the ECM becomes very flaky if the battery voltage sags below 9 volts.