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08-19-2014, 12:36 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2008 yaris Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 2
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***DIY ENGINE SWAP***
Hi ,
My 2008 yaris engine blew out due to lack of oil. I found a used engine for $650.00 I plan on doing the removal end installation myself I was wondering if ther is a guide or manual to make this undertaking less of a pain in ass for me. Any comment or help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks! |
08-19-2014, 01:13 PM | #2 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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You can grab the complete service manual from the Micro Image forum: http://www.microimageonline.com/foru...32-YARIS-FILES
It really is quite easy to do on a Yaris. Removing the hood, front bumper, and radiator support assembly makes it a much easier task. I personally find removing the engine and tranny together and putting them back in together to be easier than disconnecting them while still in the car (but, others may have different opinions on that). Before you begin, the AC system will need to be properly evacuated, as you can not pull the engine out and leave that system closed.
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08-19-2014, 01:35 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2007 red Yaris HB AT Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: southeast USA
Posts: 197
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Did you have oil consumption or just forgot to put in?
I thought oil consumption was rare in Yaris? |
08-19-2014, 04:10 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2008 yaris Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 2
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Just forgot. :-(
What do I disconnect first. I like the whole taking out tranny with engine idea. Can you give more details ?? That's for the post BTW |
08-19-2014, 05:24 PM | #5 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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Quote:
Here's a general idea of my order of things: Prep: 1. Depressurize fuel system by pulling the EFI fuse from the under hood fuse box and trying to start car a few times. 2. Have AC system evacuated 3. Remove hood 4. Remove wiper arms, wiper cowling, wiper motor and wiper tray Main removal 1. Disconnect and remove battery 2. Drain radiator 3. Drain transmission 4. Disconnect axles from tranny 5. Remove front bumper 6. Remove bumper support 7. Disconnect radiator 8. Disconnect AC condenser and compressor 9. Remove entire radiator support assembly 10. Remove air intake/filter assembly 11. Disconnect all electrical connectors from engine and tranny 12. Disconnect coolant lines from engine and throttle body 13. Disconnect fuel line from engine 14. Disconnect tranny cable 15. Connect engine lift and support engine 16. Remove engine mounts and tranny mounts 17. Lift the engine and tranny out 18. Separate engine and tranny 19. Reverse the whole procedure
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08-19-2014, 06:13 PM | #6 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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^ If only it were really that easy! Please keep in mind that some of those steps involve special tools and/or experience to make them go smoothly. Other things to be aware of:
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08-19-2014, 06:42 PM | #7 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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LOL. Yeah, I definitely posted the cliff notes version of it
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08-19-2014, 06:44 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2011 Scion tC Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: DFW
Posts: 651
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Have you considered throwing in a 1.8 from a Matrix/Vibe?
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08-19-2014, 07:33 PM | #9 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Or better yet, Scion XD, which is a direct drop in for the Yaris.
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08-19-2014, 07:46 PM | #10 | |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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`
Quote:
I had my oil/filter changed at 274k+ on my 2007 Yaris (not burning oil at that point). I started a long trip at 282,615 miles. At 288k+ the check engine light came on. I immediately pulled over. I looked under the car...no leaks. I then checked the oil...not registering on the dipstick! I called AAA. The driver towed me to a nearby convenience store/truck stop etc. After the tow driver (an older guy) lowered my Yaris off the flatbed, I asked him what = the likelihood of engine damage given that I pulled over immediately when the light illuminated. He asked me to start the car. I did. He said it wouldn't sound like that if you'd done any damage to the engine. I bought and added two quarts. it was still half a quart low. Over the next 4,000 miles it burned 1/4 of a quart. Last edited by nookandcrannycar; 08-19-2014 at 10:43 PM. Reason: typo |
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08-19-2014, 07:52 PM | #11 |
0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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pulling the motor is super easy, takes about 3-5 hours pulling it and about the same for install. Pull it from the front, it'll save quite a bit of hassle, you can also move the AC out of the way without having to evacuate it but make sure you pay attention to it when you pull and install the drive train.
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08-19-2014, 08:08 PM | #12 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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Quote:
I have AC evacuation and filling equipment, so I never fretted over disconnecting it.
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08-19-2014, 10:15 PM | #13 |
Mr. 155 and climbing
Drives: Seriously Modded 07 Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: In The Hotbox
Posts: 4,742
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bags, bags, bags and a couple sharpies for documentation on the bags as to where the nuts and bolts come from is my best advice. That and be VERY careful when removing/installing the alternator and belt. It is very easy to damage the camshaft position sensor becauee it is right in the line of work. Also tbh 650 seems komd of high unless it has less than 10k miles. Be prepared to reuse or else keep your sensors for a rainy day. Scott's suggestion on the XD engine is a great idea when you are looking at the cost. It is a pretty cost effective way to give the chassis more pep and I doubt you would see any impact for the most part the fuel economy.
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08-19-2014, 10:44 PM | #14 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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I think you need to get the matching ECU, intake, throttle body, radiator and exhaust from the xD to have a drop-in solution. That said, the 2ZR-FE has an almost flat torque curve, so you get good fuel economy at most speeds.
That said, I think you really need to read over the manuals linked above before you just start ripping off parts. |
08-20-2014, 12:13 AM | #15 |
0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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I have an AC machine as well but I'm kinda lazy so didn't end up using it. I should say that I used a lift when swapping my motor so I pulled everything from the passenger side of the car so I didn't need to the front end off. The BS car doesn't have AC so it wasn't an issue when I pulled it from the front.
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08-20-2014, 05:22 AM | #16 |
Drives: 2010 black yaris Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: savannah, ga
Posts: 2,868
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I believe an engine swap is above OP's skill. He is asking for a DIY R&R motor step by step play after Scott just linked the basic manual..
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08-20-2014, 05:54 AM | #17 | |
Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,790
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Quote:
Still runs OK!
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08-20-2014, 04:12 PM | #18 | |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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Quote:
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Tags |
diy, engine swap, guide, yaris |
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