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Old 03-13-2015, 10:43 PM   #1
CoryM
 
Drives: 2009 5-door, 5-speed
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: White Rock BC
Posts: 674
unusual engine swap

Hey guys,

So I bought a Yaris because I figured I was old, mature and boring enough to accept that the less money I spend on a daily-driver, the more I can play with on other things. Well..... I'm not. The lack of power is starting to seriously grind on me, as is the lack of LSD. I do like the Yaris, and intend to keep it until it is no longer viable to drive it. So I started looking at options, gave up on the 1.5L, and I've pretty much settled on..... an ecotec. I'm talking either the 2.0L S/C (200hp,200ft) or the 2.4L N/A (175hp,165ft). I don't like turbos so that's out.

Now before you get out your pitchforks, let me explain my reasoning:

-toooooorque. Sweet, blessed torque. I don't like low torque/high revving engines (which is why I gave up on the 2zz)
-cheap. Can probably get a wrecked SS cobalt for $500-1000
-LSD. Available in some 2.0L SC, or if go with 2.4L can buy a trans from the turbo cars (price would probably wash out due to lower cost of 2.4L car).
-aftermarket support means cheaper mods later if required
-engine management is free (I already have some GM credits for HPtuners)
-I'm more familiar with GM engines than Toyota
-light enough to not ruin the handling.
-the ecotec powertrain is reasonably reliable, even if the rest of the Cobalt falls apart around it.
-size is doable so long as I don't have to notch the framerails too much.

I am a mechanic, have done several RWD swaps (never a FWD though), and have designed and built a racecar from scratch. In terms of ability, I can do this fairly easy. Budget wise, I figure I could do this for under $2500 so long as I buy the right donor.

Potential issues:
-CV axles. The output of the ecotec trans are quite wide apart. The CVs would be short. I am not sure of how short then can be before issues arise.
-pretty sure the a/c has to go
-P/S. Can you keep this functional w/o the toyota ECU/cluster?

I like the thought of the 2.4L as it runs on 87oct, and can be tuned to around 170whp/170ft with just intake/exhaust. The S/C has potential to make 250whp pretty easy, but the 94oct and less reliability could get tiring (and take $ away from more fun projects). This is still intended to just be a reliable daily driver. Can always bolt a S/C on the 2.4L too if I get bored/rich.

Obviously I need to do some pretty careful measurements before getting too carried away, but initial/rough measurement are promising.

Can anyone think of an issue I will run into not knowing FWD swaps?

Cheers.
Cory

Last edited by CoryM; 04-24-2015 at 10:08 PM.
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