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Old 10-17-2018, 01:49 PM   #127
06YarisRS
 
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A/C...Next on the agenda...

The local parts store counter guy is a font of knowledge. A month ago he sold a bunch of car A/C gear to the local applicance repair guy. He gave me his name. I called and he's coming down to my house in the next day or two to drain the refridgerant out of my A/C system. When my swap is done, he'll come and recharge the system. $150.00 for both on-site jobs. I think that sounds reasonable.
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Old 10-17-2018, 04:35 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
The local parts store counter guy is a font of knowledge. A month ago he sold a bunch of car A/C gear to the local applicance repair guy. He gave me his name. I called and he's coming down to my house in the next day or two to drain the refridgerant out of my A/C system. When my swap is done, he'll come and recharge the system. $150.00 for both on-site jobs. I think that sounds reasonable.
100-150 is the average price.
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Old 10-17-2018, 09:43 PM   #129
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Width and Position of the 2ZR-FE? And, wrong A/C compressor...

I was out in my garage tonight and did some rough measurements (not in units, but just using a piece of string) comparing the 1NZ and 2ZR. From the same point on the throttlebody to the outer edge of the alternator pully, I would make the 1NZ a couple of cm wider. Does this make sense? It appears as though there may actually be more space between the pully and the chassis. Does the 2ZR, when mounted sit more to the right (from the driver's position) in the engine bay? It isn't adding up for me at the moment.

Tomorrow - time permitting - I am going to raise the car up on 4 jackstands and start removing the front. It looks like the wiper cowl is going to be in the way. I would prefer to not remove it if possible. Did you guys remove the wiper cowl assembly when you did your swaps?

Also, I found out that the A/C compressor I bought is the wrong one. It is from a 2011 and that will not work for two apparent reasons: 1) the 2011 compressor has two electrical connections, the scion harness and the 2009-2010 Corolla compressor, only 1 plug. 2) the A/C hose flanges on the compressor are a different configuration. So, it's back to the auto recycler. I hope they will take back the 2011 compressor and give me a 2009/10 one.

Here is the 2011 compressor:



This is the one I need:

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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-17-2018 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 10-18-2018, 02:12 AM   #130
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Oh wow....... I had no idea there was another option. Are we sure that’s not from a different engine than the 2zr? I don’t ever remember seeing more than 2 wires to the a/c compressor in the corolla diagrams
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Old 10-18-2018, 06:21 AM   #131
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Oh wow....... I had no idea there was another option. Are we sure that’s not from a different engine than the 2zr? I don’t ever remember seeing more than 2 wires to the a/c compressor in the corolla diagrams
It appears so, Tom. Though I am now basing this off pictures from eBay. It seems that there was a change in the 2011 model year. I am going to go out again today and check the Yaris to be 100% sure that the flanges are the same as the 2009-2010 Corolla compressor. Thanks!
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Old 10-18-2018, 10:05 AM   #132
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Hmm that is weird, I think I ordered a 2011 compressor only because I had a 2011 engine but never noticed a different compressor for a different year corolla
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Old 10-18-2018, 11:34 AM   #133
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Hmm that is weird, I think I ordered a 2011 compressor only because I had a 2011 engine but never noticed a different compressor for a different year corolla
Yeah, strange. But my xd Harness only has one plug and this 2011 compressor has two. I checked the 2011 Corolla against the Yaris. The Yaris has the same flanges as the 2009 - 2010 compressor (one "T" shaped flange and "V" shaped flange for lack of better description) and definitely different than the compressor I got. Now, that said, maybe the auto recycler didn't actually give me the right one. However, every ebay listing shows a difference between 2009 - 2010 and 2011.

Thanks as always!
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-19-2018 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 10-18-2018, 09:32 PM   #134
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I did a quick google image search for the 2011 compressor and you get sites that show both as compatible, yet we know that’s not the case. Strange
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Old 10-19-2018, 05:49 AM   #135
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I did a quick google image search for the 2011 compressor and you get sites that show both as compatible, yet we know that’s not the case. Strange
Yes, there appears to be some confusion about the AC compressor as well as which belt to use. I picked up a Continental 6PK1230 (1060485) as it was the only one I could get last evening. There were a couple parts numbers for the same make, model year and options. On initial inspection, the belt seems short, but I should know tonight.

I returned my other AC compressor and got one from a 2010 Corolla. It has the proper flanges, which appear identical to the Yaris flanges. As a bonus, it was $60.00 cheaper. It also has the one needed connector. The pulley runs smooth and there is no runout or play but it makes a wee bit of what sounds like bearing noise when spinning the clutch pulley, though this may be normal sound from the clutchless mechanism. Not sure. I may have it checked at an AC shop before install. There was one broken mounting bolt left in the compressor with enough threads left to size the bolt. I measured the hole depth and figure I need about an 8 cm bolt (4 of them). I'd like to leave the AC compressor attached to the 1NZ. The only thing I'd like to try and source are some new o-rings for the AC hose connectors, but couldn't find a part number. May just pick up an o-ring kit.

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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-19-2018 at 06:07 AM.
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Old 10-19-2018, 06:05 AM   #136
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Hmm that is weird, I think I ordered a 2011 compressor only because I had a 2011 engine but never noticed a different compressor for a different year corolla
Thanks Trevor. I saw a reference online that alluded to something about a mid 2010 production change in the compressor. I'm still confused about the Japan-made and non-Japan made cars. It is all a bit confusing.
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Old 10-19-2018, 06:06 AM   #137
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100-150 is the average price.
Thanks DarkShadowFox. I'm impressed that the guy will make two visits and charge the price for one.
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Old 10-19-2018, 12:17 PM   #138
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Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Thanks Trevor. I saw a reference online that alluded to something about a mid 2010 production change in the compressor. I'm still confused about the Japan-made and non-Japan made cars. It is all a bit confusing.
Great that you found this issue though, we all need to update our swap threads to reflect this new information.
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Old 10-19-2018, 12:22 PM   #139
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That would probably correlate to the change in wire harness part numbers for Canada as well.
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Old 10-19-2018, 01:05 PM   #140
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So 2011+ compressors are good but older than that no go?
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Old 10-19-2018, 01:50 PM   #141
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So 2011+ compressors are good but older than that no go?
I think 2010 and older are ok, probably back to a certain point. I will try and dig up the reference I saw. It was something like before 10/2010 are ok. I don't want to provide misinformation, but from what I have seen, 2011 compressors are different in configuration. I suppose a car manufactured in 2010 is considered a 2011 model.

I wil try to determine with 100% accuracy this weekend which years work and which don't.

But for now...



Just thought of something. Maybe both styles of compressor will work. Maybe only one connector needs to be used. As far as the flanges go, I thought there might be a "V" shaped connector on the end of the Yaris ac hose that attaches to the compressor. I now think that the "V" shaped flange is designed to receive a connector either straight or rotated at 90 degrees. Just some thoughts.
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-19-2018 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 10-19-2018, 07:49 PM   #142
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Hey Adam. I've been popping in and out of your swap thread, and man, I have to say I thoroughly admire your skill, knowledge and tenacity. I'd probably have given up long ago.
...
lol - I appreciate the compliment, thanks. But then, if I was that clever, I'd have sorted it out by now..

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Midpipe and Other Parts
Adam was right. This pipe starts out huge and then tapers down to 1 1/2" after the resonator. It is what it is. Hopefully the flow won't be restricted too much. As much as I hate the thought of it I'm tempted to gut the cats!
...
That looks (and sound by description) similar to the Walker pipe.. it functions, I just ended up monkey'ing with it more than I wanted to and am not a fan of the sound - but, depending on your preference, it might float your boat. Sounds like the local shop has the potential to do a nice setup for something decent. At least the back-end will be a smexy dual pipe setup.

Quick note (catching up.. lol) re: anti-seize - just remember that torque specs are for clean, dry threads (unless otherwise noted, e.g. cylinder head bolts often list as with oil). When you gob anti-seize all over the threads you're reducing the thread friction, and especially putting a steel bolt into an aluminium block.. I've been fortunate that a little dab and a gentle torque I've never buggered anything up, but I have seen the result and it's no fun to resolve that mess.

Might sound ridiculous and seem obvious, but did you count the ribs on the pulley of the A/C compressor? Guess how I know that when you ask for an A/C compressor for 2ZR and they give you one from a (10th?) gen. Corolla and it doesn't seem to jive that it came from a 2AZ model... ooops.

Looks like you're making awesome progress! Still diving into it this weekend?

-- Adam
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Old 10-19-2018, 08:27 PM   #143
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lol - I appreciate the compliment, thanks. But then, if I was that clever, I'd have sorted it out by now..



That looks (and sound by description) similar to the Walker pipe.. it functions, I just ended up monkey'ing with it more than I wanted to and am not a fan of the sound - but, depending on your preference, it might float your boat. Sounds like the local shop has the potential to do a nice setup for something decent. At least the back-end will be a smexy dual pipe setup.

Quick note (catching up.. lol) re: anti-seize - just remember that torque specs are for clean, dry threads (unless otherwise noted, e.g. cylinder head bolts often list as with oil). When you gob anti-seize all over the threads you're reducing the thread friction, and especially putting a steel bolt into an aluminium block.. I've been fortunate that a little dab and a gentle torque I've never buggered anything up, but I have seen the result and it's no fun to resolve that mess.

Might sound ridiculous and seem obvious, but did you count the ribs on the pulley of the A/C compressor? Guess how I know that when you ask for an A/C compressor for 2ZR and they give you one from a (10th?) gen. Corolla and it doesn't seem to jive that it came from a 2AZ model... ooops.

Looks like you're making awesome progress! Still diving into it this weekend?

-- Adam
Adam!


Thanks for the guidance. I'm hoping that between the midpipe I got and the exhaust guy, I come up with a decent solution. I think the exhaust should look great, but my fear is the dreaded drone at highway speeds. Hopefully the pipe with 2 cats and the resonator will combat that.

I can only imagine how troublesome it would be to try to tap stripped threads in an aluminum block as a result of over torquing with a lubricant on the threads. I'll go a little easier on the torque for sure, and no doubt I've gone a little heavy on the anti-seize. At least I know which bolts I've torqued and knowing me, I'll likely check them all again after some driving time. But, thanks for that reminder, for sure.

Haha, going out to the garage in a few minutes to check the number of ribs on the pulley. I did score some M8x1.25 x 80mm bolts today and started to attach the compressor when I was summoned by wifey to go to hockey practice.

Looks like next weekend for the swap. I have one of our students, who's very diligent and careful when working on cars, interested in coming by next Saturday to help me put the engine in. I'll start the disassembly though through the week.

Thanks again for all your help. You can't imagine how valuable the help that I've gotten from you guys has been.

EDIT: Well, the compressor pulley has the right number of ribs and the belt I got is the right one. Tensioning mechanism works great. I'll back it off until is squeaks a bit then tighten it a bit. I imagine there's a certain amount of deflection under a certain pressure to be in spec, but I probably won't get that technical.

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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-19-2018 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 10-19-2018, 09:57 PM   #144
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Plugs

I removed the plugs. I think I'll pick up a new set and install them. I'm not really knowledgeable about plug condition, so feel free to comment. The bottom right one doesn't look so great imo.

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