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05-22-2014, 01:15 AM | #1 | |
Drives: 2011 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cali
Posts: 725
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Quote:
Ahh gotcha. Guess I gotta leave it alone for now until I get those springs. They're shorter right? That way I can add the locks/perches and still go as low? Really?? Haha damn I hella see it. Definitely man I won't be touching them. I'll have to deal with it until I get shorter springs. So I'll be okay if I leave it where it is? |
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05-22-2014, 03:13 AM | #2 |
Drives: Decepticon - Ravage Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,462
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Yeah, measure your springs should be 7in. I have 6in stiffer springs. Basically measure how much your rear springs compress compared to its free length. You can calculate how much drop any spring will give with stated spring rates.
Course you could go with same spring rate but shorter springs.
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05-22-2014, 01:57 PM | #3 | |
Drives: 2011 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cali
Posts: 725
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05-22-2014, 06:29 PM | #4 |
Drives: Decepticon - Ravage Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,462
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Yeah, seeing they are sold in pairs you can test to see how much drop front and back you can get. I do recall I only decided to buying the 9k 150mm once i saw they had it (gotta keep checking or maybe just ask them), i bought a pair of 8k 175mm (7") to test.
I only went with the 9k, because i calculated it would allow me to lower a bit more (i forgot the number) and still be at the same height compared to 4k when fully loaded with passengers. Be warned that 9k, is pretty stiff.
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05-23-2014, 08:14 AM | #5 |
Form>Function
Drives: 07 Flint Sedan Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Tampa
Posts: 4,018
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@ezhacker1 regarding your post about shortening rear shocks for preload/length. If you have the shock too long and once lowered at ride height the inner valve pushes down pretty far towards the bottom of the inner tube, wouldnt you call that preload too?
Also if the shock is set so long that once the car is lowered to its static height if the valve is resting agains the inside of the bottom of the tube, wouldnt that hold the car up anyways? in that case, shortening the shock would allow the valve to move back up the inner tube at static height and then that would allow the car to settle down more. just like discussing these things with other suspension experts lol |
06-02-2014, 02:14 AM | #6 | |
Drives: Decepticon - Ravage Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,462
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Quote:
This is just my understanding of how suspension works. The front shocks have preload abililty which is just pre compressing the spring even before the car is on the ground, but that spring will push against the shock hat, tugging on the shaft The rear struts need to be set up in such a way at static load with wheels on ground that the shaft has enough travel both up and down without bottoming out. I measured static shaft length, compared that to how much shaft is left with car on ground, and calculate at max load how much more the shaft will travel. Then i adjust the strut height accordingly, making sure that with wheels off ground the spring and perches don't fall out.
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06-01-2014, 10:36 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2011 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cali
Posts: 725
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Tested the cars ABS today. Yup, as of right now no ABS.. Lol. I gotta figure out what happened to that and the Vehicle Stability Control already. Those lights on the dash are not fun to look at. A friend of mine told me that if we did stretch the wires out on accident it will be costly to replace.. *sigh*
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06-02-2014, 01:26 AM | #8 | |
Drives: '14 GT86, '08 Vitz Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Central Valley, CA
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06-02-2014, 02:56 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2011 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cali
Posts: 725
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06-02-2014, 02:58 PM | #10 | ||
Drives: 2011 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cali
Posts: 725
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06-02-2014, 07:15 AM | #11 |
Form>Function
Drives: 07 Flint Sedan Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Tampa
Posts: 4,018
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right, so in the rear you have some preload to keep the spring taught even with wheels in the air, mine i have way longer. I have never bottomed mine out, when they were short I topped them out all the time.
I was considering shortening the shock to see if it was holding me up at all, but with my recent mods my fitment is perfect so idc now haha |
06-02-2014, 04:03 PM | #12 |
Drives: Decepticon - Ravage Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,462
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Well to a certain extent the strut height should keep the spring assembly from falling out, but if you take out perches rings, or swap to shorter spring length then depends.
Ill look at your car at the coming up meet.
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06-02-2014, 04:35 PM | #13 |
Drives: 2011 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cali
Posts: 725
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Sounds good man. Thank you. You have an 09+ Yaris right? So you have ABS and VSC?
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06-02-2014, 07:40 PM | #14 |
Drives: Decepticon - Ravage Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,462
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ABS yes, VSC no.
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06-03-2014, 12:12 AM | #15 |
Drives: 2011 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cali
Posts: 725
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Ahhh okay. The ABS light didn't give you any problems at all when you installed the coilovers? Did you unplug the sensors or anything during the install? I'm just trying to figure out what may have caused the lights to go off cause I thought we did a good job about avoiding messing up the wiring.
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06-08-2014, 05:14 PM | #16 |
Drives: 2011 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cali
Posts: 725
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So a friend of mine told me the reason why my ABS and VSC lights stay on now is because the car is too low for the sensors to get an accurate reading. I have to get "extensions" for the sensors supposedly. Still gotta do some hw but what he says does make sense.
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06-09-2014, 06:52 AM | #17 |
Form>Function
Drives: 07 Flint Sedan Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Tampa
Posts: 4,018
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haha nice
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06-09-2014, 04:18 PM | #18 |
Drives: 2011 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cali
Posts: 725
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