My 2011 Vitz

[ezhacker1]

yeah i got Stance coil springs to replace the 4k/4k from my cusco setup. about 50-60shipped per pair on ebay.

How much preload are you running on the front and back? you can lower the back to an extent with the strut height, but keep in mind every time the back wheels are off the ground, the spring will be pulling the strut apart, also you reduce the strut shaft travel length.

[TerenceCruz]

Originally Posted by ezhacker1

yeah i got Stance coil springs to replace the 4k/4k from my cusco setup. about 50-60shipped per pair on ebay.

How much preload are you running on the front and back? you can lower the back to an extent with the strut height, but keep in mind every time the back wheels are off the ground, the spring will be pulling the strut apart, also you reduce the strut shaft travel length.

For sure thanks man. What're the spring rates on your Stance springs? Also, preload I'm not quite sure.. My friend helped out with that. For the rears I don't think we did any preload for that..

[ezhacker1]

9K/9k Stance 6in springs.

yeah keep preload to a bare minimum, least for the front. The rears, actually you cant preload it, because moving the strut body just moves amount of shaft travel. But still you can bust a strut .

You cant get any more lower/higher than what the springs/ spring perch / lock rings give you or lack there of. So trying to thread that rear strut lower, wont give you more low. The front yeah, the shock body adjusting will control the car height, and not the spring lock ring.

[1.5]

@terrence I cannot tell the difference lol. Also do not shorten your shock much more. All of us with Megans who went too short with out shock length wound up blowing the shock.

[TerenceCruz]

Originally Posted by ezhacker1

9K/9k Stance 6in springs.

yeah keep preload to a bare minimum, least for the front. The rears, actually you cant preload it, because moving the strut body just moves amount of shaft travel. But still you can bust a strut .

You cant get any more lower/higher than what the springs/ spring perch / lock rings give you or lack there of. So trying to thread that rear strut lower, wont give you more low. The front yeah, the shock body adjusting will control the car height, and not the spring lock ring.

Ahh gotcha. Guess I gotta leave it alone for now until I get those springs. They're shorter right? That way I can add the locks/perches and still go as low?

Originally Posted by 1.5

@terrence I cannot tell the difference lol. Also do not shorten your shock much more. All of us with Megans who went too short with out shock length wound up blowing the shock.

Really?? Haha damn I hella see it. Definitely man I won't be touching them. I'll have to deal with it until I get shorter springs. So I'll be okay if I leave it where it is?

[ezhacker1]

Yeah, measure your springs should be 7in. I have 6in stiffer springs. Basically measure how much your rear springs compress compared to its free length. You can calculate how much drop any spring will give with stated spring rates.

Course you could go with same spring rate but shorter springs.

[TerenceCruz]

Originally Posted by ezhacker1

Yeah, measure your springs should be 7in. I have 6in stiffer springs. Basically measure how much your rear springs compress compared to its free length. You can calculate how much drop any spring will give with stated spring rates.

Course you could go with same spring rate but shorter springs.

Sweet. Thanks for the help man. The ones I'm looking at are - 6k 150mm / 336lb 6in. Looking for the pair with 9k spring rates. I was thinking about just changing the rear springs.

[ezhacker1]

Yeah, seeing they are sold in pairs you can test to see how much drop front and back you can get. I do recall I only decided to buying the 9k 150mm once i saw they had it (gotta keep checking or maybe just ask them), i bought a pair of 8k 175mm (7") to test.

I only went with the 9k, because i calculated it would allow me to lower a bit more (i forgot the number) and still be at the same height compared to 4k when fully loaded with passengers. Be warned that 9k, is pretty stiff.

[1.5]

@ezhacker1 regarding your post about shortening rear shocks for preload/length. If you have the shock too long and once lowered at ride height the inner valve pushes down pretty far towards the bottom of the inner tube, wouldnt you call that preload too?

Also if the shock is set so long that once the car is lowered to its static height if the valve is resting agains the inside of the bottom of the tube, wouldnt that hold the car up anyways? in that case, shortening the shock would allow the valve to move back up the inner tube at static height and then that would allow the car to settle down more.

just like discussing these things with other suspension experts lol

[TerenceCruz]

Tested the cars ABS today. Yup, as of right now no ABS.. Lol. I gotta figure out what happened to that and the Vehicle Stability Control already. Those lights on the dash are not fun to look at. A friend of mine told me that if we did stretch the wires out on accident it will be costly to replace.. *sigh*

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by TerenceCruz

Tested the cars ABS today. Yup, as of right now no ABS.. Lol. I gotta figure out what happened to that and the Vehicle Stability Control already. Those lights on the dash are not fun to look at. A friend of mine told me that if we did stretch the wires out on accident it will be costly to replace.. *sigh*

lol, you don't needs ABS or VSC anyway

[ezhacker1]

Originally Posted by 1.5

@ezhacker1 regarding your post about shortening rear shocks for preload/length. If you have the shock too long and once lowered at ride height the inner valve pushes down pretty far towards the bottom of the inner tube, wouldnt you call that preload too?

Also if the shock is set so long that once the car is lowered to its static height if the valve is resting agains the inside of the bottom of the tube, wouldnt that hold the car up anyways? in that case, shortening the shock would allow the valve to move back up the inner tube at static height and then that would allow the car to settle down more.

just like discussing these things with other suspension experts lol

i read and re-read this a few times. LOL gets confusing. Front is easy to visualize how the whole system works, rear takes alot of my brain cells HAHA.

This is just my understanding of how suspension works.
The front shocks have preload abililty which is just pre compressing the spring even before the car is on the ground, but that spring will push against the shock hat, tugging on the shaft

The rear struts need to be set up in such a way at static load with wheels on ground that the shaft has enough travel both up and down without bottoming out. I measured static shaft length, compared that to how much shaft is left with car on ground, and calculate at max load how much more the shaft will travel. Then i adjust the strut height accordingly, making sure that with wheels off ground the spring and perches don't fall out.

[1.5]

right, so in the rear you have some preload to keep the spring taught even with wheels in the air, mine i have way longer. I have never bottomed mine out, when they were short I topped them out all the time.

I was considering shortening the shock to see if it was holding me up at all, but with my recent mods my fitment is perfect so idc now haha

[TerenceCruz]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

lol, you don't needs ABS or VSC anyway

Hahah maaan, I'd like to keep those features though

[TerenceCruz]

Originally Posted by ezhacker1

i read and re-read this a few times. LOL gets confusing. Front is easy to visualize how the whole system works, rear takes alot of my brain cells HAHA.

This is just my understanding of how suspension works.
The front shocks have preload abililty which is just pre compressing the spring even before the car is on the ground, but that spring will push against the shock hat, tugging on the shaft

The rear struts need to be set up in such a way at static load with wheels on ground that the shaft has enough travel both up and down without bottoming out. I measured static shaft length, compared that to how much shaft is left with car on ground, and calculate at max load how much more the shaft will travel. Then i adjust the strut height accordingly, making sure that with wheels off ground the spring and perches don't fall out.

Originally Posted by 1.5

right, so in the rear you have some preload to keep the spring taught even with wheels in the air, mine i have way longer. I have never bottomed mine out, when they were short I topped them out all the time.

I was considering shortening the shock to see if it was holding me up at all, but with my recent mods my fitment is perfect so idc now haha

Originally Posted by TerenceCruz

Hahah maaan, I'd like to keep those features though

Haha I'm still trying to absorb all of this since I consider myself a noob when it comes to the way the coils can be adjusted. When I lift my car from the rear the springs just fall out.. Haha. The weight of the car is keeping them in place when it's on the ground.

[ezhacker1]

Well to a certain extent the strut height should keep the spring assembly from falling out, but if you take out perches rings, or swap to shorter spring length then depends.

Ill look at your car at the coming up meet.

[TerenceCruz]

Originally Posted by ezhacker1

Well to a certain extent the strut height should keep the spring assembly from falling out, but if you take out perches rings, or swap to shorter spring length then depends.

Ill look at your car at the coming up meet.

Sounds good man. Thank you. You have an 09+ Yaris right? So you have ABS and VSC?

[ezhacker1]

ABS yes, VSC no.