06YarisRS's 2ZR-FE Swap 5-Door Hatchback (Automatic Transmission)

[06YarisRS]

I reconnected the blue wire from pin #10 and grounded the brown wire from pin#9. I cleared the codes. As soon as I started the car, the P2770 returned. My connections are solid. I wondered if my battery was bad, so I put my van battery in and there was no difference.

Here is a pic that contains a snippet from the Yaris EWD I had from before and The scion xD diagram. Might this be helpful?

[ArmstrongRacing]

I am lost here, I don’t understand how you are still having an issue.

Is the small 2 pin connector on top of the transmission plugged in?

You may need to check the wires to the AT plug with an Ohmmeter. Worst case scenario I can send you my harness that I know worked with no codes the whole time

[tmontague]

If all you connections are good then possibkena short in the harness. Like Tom said you can check for continuity down all the wire to make sure they are good

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing

I am lost here, I don’t understand how you are still having an issue.

Is the small 2 pin connector on top of the transmission plugged in?

You may need to check the wires to the AT plug with an Ohmmeter. Worst case scenario I can send you my harness that I know worked with no codes the whole time

Thanks Tom! Yes, the 2 pin plug is plugged in. Yeah, I'm beginning to wonder if my harness is damaged. I think checking it with a multimeter is the approach now. So, I should stay with grounding the brown wire from pin 9? When you say to "check the wires to the AT plug", should I check this from the main plug at the ECU all the way to the trans plug or from CA2 in the underhood fusebox to teh trans plug? I apologize and I know that my limited understanding of electronics is contributing to this.

This link provides what appears to a good path to take:

https://www.obd-codes.com/p2770

Do you think that it is possible that the charging issue and my torque converter problem are related in any way?

I asked my helper yesterday if he noticed anything getting caught as we were pulling the 1NZ and putting the 2ZR in as he was on the transmission side and I was guiding the engines on the pulley side. He said that nothing got caught.

Finally, if my electrical tests don't show anything abnormal, would having Toyota use their special scan tool uncover the problem. I'd rather fix this at home but would have Toyota look at it if you think that they could find out what I've done wrong.


Thanks very much.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

If all you connections are good then possibkena short in the harness. Like Tom said you can check for continuity down all the wire to make sure they are good

Thanks Trevor! It is indeed looking like this is the next approach to take. I'm wondering if one of these issues - the charging or the torque converter should be dealt with first.

[tmontague]

Almost always fix a charging system first. In modern vehicles low voltage can and will cause all sorts of weird things to happen.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

You will need to disconnect the large ECM plug and the AT plugand check resistance from end to end. Between:

S1: (B21)#79 - #5(C29)
S2, SLU, ST, SLT
Etc...

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Almost always fix a charging system first. In modern vehicles low voltage can and will cause all sorts of weird things to happen.

I think I will try to fix the charging issue first. Thanks Trevor.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing

You will need to disconnect the large ECM plug and the AT plugand check resistance from end to end. Between:

S1: (B21)#79 - #5(C29)
S2, SLU, ST, SLT
Etc...

Thanks Tom. I will commence that testing shortly. I just need to see if the probes of my multimeter will reach, and make good contact with, the pins. I had meant to bring a paper clip from the school, but forgot.

I just have a quick question. You said that pins 1 and 2 of the alternator connector have to see battery voltage in order to get the alternator to charge, correct?



Right now my battery is at around 10 volts. As long as those pins see that voltage am I safe to assume that those wires are ok? I plan to put my battery on the charger tonight.

EDIT: Here are my voltage readings.

Battery Posts 10.2 V
With the ignition OFF:
Pin 1 10.2V
Pin 2 1.02V
Pin 3 0.66V
Pin 4 0.66V

With Ignition ON:
Pin 1 9.7V
Pin 2 9.7V
Pin 3 6.07V
Pin 4 8.33V

From alternator + post to battery -, I get 0 Volts

So, although it looks like I have continuity in all wires, and my alternator tested good, it will not start charging.

Oh, and I was remiss in not thanking you for the 'worst case' possible offer of the harness, but I would like to try fixing my issues. I would also have a hard time accepting that as I've already imposed upon you guys a lot.



Thanks!

[atomic_hoji]

+1 on the charging problem as unreliable electrical source can cause all sorts of goofy stuff. Glad your alternator isn't hooped at least! Have you checked the charge cable connection at the alternator and the battery terminals? Checked the battery terminal connectors are good and tight? Good, clean connections everywhere from alt to battery, starter to battery, at battery to JB, etc.. and grounds! Poor connection from battery to body or from harness to engine block could cause a headache - granted, in saying that I would have imagined you'd have way more weird problems than just the 1 OBD code for the transmission solenoid.. 10V seems low to me, I would definitely throw it on a charger and see if it helps - can't hurt at least. lol

To check continuity and resistance I found that, as you mentioned, if you gently stick a sewing pin into the ECM terminal and carefully pull down on it while holding the multimeter probe on the sewing pin it pushes the sewing pin against the inside of the terminal and works a treat for measuring.

I admit, I'm a little confused why there's a need to ground any of the 10-pin connectors when they all run back to the ECM for control; in this case it's the SLU- signal, which is probably a ground provided by the ECM anyway... Quick Q, in case I missed it: are all 10-pins on your connector used? By the wiring diagram pin 7 should be blank - which seems to jive based on your picture of the male side connector that has no pin installed. If there's a wire at pin 7, is this connected to ground as a shielding / connector ground maybe?

Seems like if you're running the xD automatic ECM with an xD harness all the ECM side pins will jive. Checking the EWDs, all of those pins match the expected pins on the Yaris' 10-pin automatic transmission connector, so in terms of correct wire to correct function I think you're alright. Just need to resolve this weird circuit issue.

Keep us posted how you make out. You're almost there man!
-- Adam

[tmontague]

Hiw reliable is the alternator test? I dont encourage throwing parts at the wall and seeing what sticks but 10v I silly low and could be a voltage regulator.

My alternator recently went and it would charge but only at 11v under load and 12.6 at idle. Over 3 weeks the car would lose more and more power until it turned over slow and eventually failed to start.

I got a free warranty battery as CT put it on their tester and said it was a bad battery. Same issue with second one until i tested the alt and found that as the source of the problen

[06YarisRS]

Adam and Trevor. I'm responding to both of your posts here. First off, thanks for sticking with me as I muddle my way through this! I'm not sure if I should be happy about what I'm about to post, but, I will say that it does eliminate one potential issue.

First, the 10 volts on my battery is a result of sitting for a long time, plus running the car without charge. My alternator produced in a very heathy 14.XX volts and a peak of 15V on the bench test. I posted the printout a few posts back.

I have conducted the continuity tests from C19 - C29 using a straight pin for C19 and the other multimeter lead for C29. I had no problems establishing immediate connections and the results are... continuity in all wires! I tested each not twice, but 3 times. I said above that I'm not sure if I should be happy about this because it really makes me constantly wonder if there is some innate incompatibility in my car (Maybe a Canadian Yaris hatchback has different wiring than the other cars that got swapped). That said, I am feeling a little better. I enjoyed this testing, but had hoped I'd find a wire without continuity, then I coud start looking for the break in the harness.

I am really trying hard to get my head around the wiring diagrams and I have taken out another 2 day TIS membership.

I had hoped that issues would be resolved when I put my van battery (known good) in, but that made no diffrence.

Anyway, not really sure what to do next. But, like I said, I'm at least feeling a bit better today about the whole thing.

EDIT: I wanted to add that the xD harness has one wire coming off the negative battery terminal, where as teh Yaris had two, one of which bolted to the strut tower. May terminals are very clean and tight.

Also, Adam, pin 7 is vacant in both the male and female connectors of C29.

WAIT... I just thought of something... Back in a bit!

[ArmstrongRacing]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

Here are my voltage readings.

Battery Posts 10.2 V
With the ignition OFF:
Pin 1 10.2V
Pin 2 1.02V
Pin 3 0.66V
Pin 4 0.66V

With Ignition ON:
Pin 1 9.7V
Pin 2 9.7V
Pin 3 6.07V
Pin 4 8.33V

From alternator + post to battery -, I get 0 Volts

So, although it looks like I have continuity in all wires, and my alternator tested good, it will not start charging.

Oh, and I was remiss in not thanking you for the 'worst case' possible offer of the harness, but I would like to try fixing my issues. I would also have a hard time accepting that as I've already imposed upon you guys a lot.

The voltage at the alternator plug are perfect. However, you should always have battery voltage on the alternator positive post.

CHECK THE FUSES IN THE POSITIVE BATTERY POST

No worries about my harness, I only have 1 race left this year. Plus I need to start on my custom Mil-spec harness and stop procrastinating haha

[atomic_hoji]

I went to reply, then went to check the alternator diagram to make sure I was right (then put the little one to bed), and Tom nailed it... lol

Fuse / Fusible Link. I recalled that you said you'd tried the van battery, so that ruled out the battery - though it's a good idea to charge it. But like Tom said, you should always have battery voltage on the alternator post and pin 1 of the 4-pin alternator connector - with no voltage on the post the ALT fusible link is probably blown. A continuity check would confirm that as well.

edit: re - grounding points, I recall a cable from the negative to the body (up around the tower as you mentioned), but also down to the transmission on my Yaris. If you don't have a cable to the transmission or the block then the alternator wouldn't be grounded via the block and that could also cause you a problem... I think the age old "check the fuse" as Tom suggested will be the age old "d'oh" moment..

-- Adam

[tmontague]

Hold the phone batman! I'm about 99% sure that the xd harness I have contains 2 large gauge ground wires from the negative battery terminal. One that connects to the body and one that connects to the trans case.

Humor me and run your pin 9 to a known ground on the chassis like a body panel. Or hell ever quicker have you ever actually tested your trans case is grounded?

I dont remember reading you stating you checked your trans ground was actually grounded.

[06YarisRS]

Gents! Here is a pic of what I think is the fusible link. This came from the Yaris and I just bolted the positive terminal to it. My assumption was that I should use the battery connector that was left over from the Yaris. Maybe I shouldn't have. I tested each fuse by placing the leads on each side of each fuse. I have continuity.



Here is a pic of the current terminals. When I posted earlier that I would be back, it was to go out and double up the negative terminals as the Yaris negative terminal connected to the strut tower and the transmission case. Trevor, you mentioned that you had another ground. My harness only appears to have the negative battery terminal. I'm thinking now I have a grounding (or lack thereof) issue. ANd I will perform the test - grounding wire 9 to a known good ground.






EDIT: Hang on... Is the fusible link on the body harness? I just had a look at my "Locations A&B" schematic and it refers to connector A28 and A29.

[tmontague]

Yes, using the fusible link plus battery terminal clamp from the yaris is correct and currently how mine is set up.

Look at the picture you just posted and notice how your yaris negative tab has 2 ground wires coming from it. Then look at your xd negative tab and notice that there is only one wire running from it.

Now go outside and test if your transmission case is grounded. This is something that you still have yet to report in but was mentioned to you pages ago. This will answer the question of what seems to be your issue to all of your problems.

In case you aren't sure how to do it just attach your positive probe from your multimeter to the battery positive and the negative probe to your transmission case and read the voltage. If you have no voltage then you have no ground. Or read resistance and you should have little to no resistance.

Then report back.

Typically when the fusible link is blown you have a hell of a lot if issues opp up and the dash can light up like a Christmas tree

[ArmstrongRacing]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

Looks good here

Cable #1 goes to the starter positive terminal.
Cable #2 goes to the alternator positive post, should be connected to the other attachment point on the front of this fuse block.
The left-over connection #3 in the back is your main ground point to the battery negative post, see how its grounded to the strut tower?