Planning first oil change @ 500 or 1000mi

[TheSilkySmooth]

I would leave the oil in at least 1500mi. It is good oil. You will have a hard time beating it. Mobil clean 5000 5-30 is near factory in operation. I have had MAJOR problems with the toyota 90915-yzzf2 filter causing chain and tappet noise and poor operation. Its NOT the filter that came on the car. I Just did my 20k mi oc and had a yzzf2 left over from a batch I bought in Dec. Used it for a few days and had to take it off . Car was not running correct. Chain noise, tappet noise + loss of power. Put on a Hastings and all was good. IDK whats up with these Thailand made Denso filters. Definitely a bad batch out there. I am a Master Engine Tech w/ NIASE cert. used to do a lot of FIAT race tuning on the 70's + 80's. HAd to beat those Datsun 510's!

[schleppy]

I ended up changing it at 1000 miles on the dot with Toyota 5w30 and an OEM filter. The oil that came out looked pretty good, and the oil change was EASY. I also installed a magnetic drain plug for good measure.

As a side note, the motor is a lot quieter with fresh oil in there, and feels really nice.

[Fenrizwolf]

I changed the oil at 5000 and then switched to synth. at 10,000 and chg every 5000.

[TheSilkySmooth]

How come I'm the only one having problems with the yzzf2 filters - do we have Chinese knockoffs in New Hampshire exclusively? Had SAME problems with the Denso filter on the Suzuki Aerio - 'zuki had a filter recall but too late for my motor ....:(

[09YarisNC]

Originally Posted by jambo101

If the engineers who designed the engine say to change the oil at 6000 miles/10000kms thats good enough for me i'll presume they know more about the engine than i do .

I could not agree with this statement more. Every 5000 miles is the last thing my serivce tech told me. Anything sooner is only making the oil barrons smile.

[R2D2]

TheSilkySmooth,

I'm not sure why you've had the bad luck with the Densos but I was concerned enough I was going to get the same supply in Maine that I ordered a bunch of Nippons. (Supposed to be like OE but made in Malaysia under Japanese management.)

I've always had good luck with Denso OE stuff in other apps.

[N9QGS]

I would go for 1,000 to 1,500 for the 1st change and then change again at 5,000 and then start your normal intervals. Ron

[RedRide]

Originally Posted by jambo101

If the engineers who designed the engine say to change the oil at 6000 miles/10000kms thats good enough for me i'll presume they know more about the engine than i do .

Engineers ? It's marketing that detreminens the published servive intervals.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by N9QGS

I would go for 1,000 to 1,500 for the 1st change and then change again at 5,000 and then start your normal intervals. Ron

This was my plan exactly. I drained the factory oil and changed the filter at 1032 mi. I was glad I did. The oil was severely fuel diluted and thin/watery looking. I may even do another short interval before I start 5k/6 months. With about 300 mi post oil change the oil was already reeking of gas again.

R2

[Tamago]

since we're on the subject, when are you guys changing your tranaxle (gear) oil for the first time ?

[schleppy]

I'm changing my gear oil at 10,000 miles. Not so much because I feel it will really need it, more to check on the fluid, see if there are any shavings, and put some nice Amsoil synthetic in there. I'll probably do 30k intervals after that.

My toyota mechanic friend said that people need to change their gear oil more than Toyota recommends (though he finds their other intervals to be fine, esp. if you do any sort of hard driving. It's not hard to do, and it's cheap. Why not?

[motoxxx3]

I have just bought a new Yaris 1.0 VVTi (U.K.) The oil changes are 1 year/10,000 miles with 0W-30 fully Synthetic (Very expensive), but I do mainly short runs and don't really want to leave oil in for 1 year! Any opinions on this?
My 91 Civic has done 180,000 with 6 month changes using cheaper semi synthetic 10W40

[Inspector14]

I changed my oil at 500mi, from dinosaur factory toyota oil, to synthetic-dino grp 3 Pennzoil. got the car in december, it is really cold in december and january in alaska. was not happy with the cold performance of the factory oil, OR the Pennzoil platinum (actually had parrafin come out of solution i think. had white bits in my oil)

We had the volcano erupt here. so i changed the air filter (more on that in a sec), and the oil again at 1500mi. apparently i didnt put the air filter in right so the airbox was opena little on the intake side, remedied that problem. but now need to change the oil again at 5000mi.

since the penn plat i have been using Castrol Edge. not happy with it, makes alot of valve train noise. i want to switch to Amsoil 5w-30, Royal Purple 5w-30, or German Castrol 0w-30.

i just have reservations about the GC 0w-30. from what i gather, it will have better cold flow performance (will be thinner?) but similar hot performance.

[R2D2]

Inspector,

Are you sure the "white bits" in your Pennzoil weren't just condensation-this is fairly common in extreme cold under the right conditions (and keep an eye on your coolant!).

All great oils you mentioned. The GC is rated a 0w-30 because it passes the cold crank testing necessary to be labeled a 0W. My concern about it in a Yaris is it's "operating" viscosity-12.1 cst @100C-almost a 40 wt!

My choice of the 3 would be the Amsoil 5W-30 (ASL). A little thinner at operating temperature and I can attest to it's impressive cold start capability down to minus -30F (that's the coldest experience I've had with it).

My first choice however would be a full syn 5W-20 which is allowed by Toyota in our 1NZ-FE engines via technical service bulletin (which is in the TSB collection on this site). After your warranty is up I would then go with 0W-20. Even dino Wal Mart Super Tech 5w-20 is pretty good in the cold weather start dept. IME.

Any of the above though, you really can't go wrong.

Just my .02! Enjoy the Yaris!

R2

PS How do you find the Yaris performs in the snow? TIA

[canuk]

shleppy:

I purchased a new 2009 yaris sedan in March. Being a believer in getting out the production swarf in the oil ASAP, I did my first oil & filter change at 600 km. I noticed that when I stirred the used oil in the drain pan, there was a significant amount of silvery coloured "swarf" (small metal particles) in it.

My next changed the oil & filter at 2000 km. The amount of silvery swarf was less than the first change, but still noticably present.

Next change was at 4000 km. Considerably less swarf.

At 6000 km, I changed the oil & filter again. This time there was hardly any of the swarf noticable. I'd say that it was not discernable from that from a fully broken in engine.

I am using 5w-30 Petro-Canada Supreme oil (a good quality hydrotreated oil available here in Canada), and a Denso oil filter from my Toyota dealer. In other words, just regular parts.

The original oil in the car looked clean on the dipstick, and felt good between the fingers, but the matal swarf in it, could only be seen in the drain pan.

There is now roughly 7000 km on the car, and it is running beautifully. No oil consumption that I can tell.

So, to answer your concern about wheather to change early and often or not, I say yes. I think it is better to help ensure the engines longevity by reducing the break-in swarf. I can't imagine anyone's logic in saying that leaving the metal swarf in for the normal engine oil change interval is just as harmless as keeping it cleared out during break-in. The engine is just like any other piece of mechanical equipment - treat it right during break-in, and it will likely return the favour to you later. At least, I'm convinced that no harm will be done to the engine if you do this, and you will have the knowledge that you did the best you could for it.

Hope this helps.

Canuk.

[Inspector14]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Inspector,

PS How do you find the Yaris performs in the snow? TIA

thanks for that info! i have been planning an Amsoil change, just got in touch with the dealer here (sold out of his home garage... ) so i will go that route. just need to wait for my Blackstone labs test kit to arrive.

My car (09 lift back) was purchased in December of 2008. at that time the average temperature in the day time was about 15 degrees F, at night it was dipping to -10*F down to a max of -21*F ,the car started just fine. a little slow, but it did OK. switched to synthetic (even if a grp 3) and starting was great, smooth, and fast.

it gets icy and cold here, and we DO get snow, but in the last few winters the city has gotten better at clearing the roads and not much has built up. When i first picked up the car, it had the Bridgestones on it. Potenzas dont fair well on ice, and had some hairy moments in that first week. I got some General Altimax Arctic studded and siped snow tires, and that car is solid as a rock on the ice.

The ABS comes in handy in emergency situations, but you learn to anticipate things in the winter here. summer is only like 4 months long before we hit fall. everyone forgets how to handle snow and ice, and the first 3 weeks or so of winter, is a massacre on the roads.

i am wondering if the VSC and TCS standard items on the '10 yaris, if they are just ECU re-flash items, or if there is hardware associated.......

[talnlnky]

Originally Posted by schleppy

I'm 100% with you on this one. I will do at least the first three oil changes using dino, then consider switching to synth.

thats exactly what I did... first oil change at about 4200 miles... and since then average a change every 4500 miles. I switched to synthetic at 13,000 miles. No problems here, I don't use neo magnets like some people are.... only cause I don't really want to spend the money, I might get a drain plug magnet some day... not too concerned.

When I reach 80,000 miles and my warranty is up i'll be running an expensive synthetic (probably API V oil... tho use it for probably 15,000 with filter changes every 5,000 miles... will end up being cheaper... and just as good if not better than dino every 5,000)

[frog13]

Get the metal bits out!.....save your engine.