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06-18-2019, 07:40 PM | #19 | |
Drives: Yaris manufactured after 2007 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North America
Posts: 250
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Quote:
It looks like this Zerex formulation meets the requirements, but I am interested in what others think. One of my doubts is that this Zerex formulation is orange and what I have in the car is pink. Thanks, R. Last edited by RMcG; 06-18-2019 at 09:14 PM. Reason: correct a typo |
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06-19-2019, 05:46 AM | #20 |
Drives: Yaris 06 - 5dr hatchback Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Birmingham, UK
Posts: 390
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I use the long life Toyota coolant mate. I'm to suspicious of other coolant brands to risk it.
Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
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- Yaris 2006, 1.0, 5 door hatchback "Betty" - 240,000 miles UK to Nordkapp in a Yaris
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06-19-2019, 05:08 PM | #21 |
Drives: Yaris manufactured after 2007 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North America
Posts: 250
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06-25-2019, 02:45 PM | #22 | |
Drives: Yaris manufactured after 2007 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North America
Posts: 250
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Quote:
So I am thinking that replacing the old coolant with distilled water and running the engine for a few minutes and then draining again (as suggested by johnwk in the quote), would get more of the old coolant out of the system before it degrades. QUESTION: Does anybody have any comments or suggestions about this? Thank you, R. Last edited by RMcG; 06-25-2019 at 03:15 PM. |
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06-25-2019, 03:36 PM | #23 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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As i stated above, this will be fine but you will dilute your new coolant below 50/50 due to the water left in it. Make sure you test your coolant's freezing point once you swap it out
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... |
06-25-2019, 08:31 PM | #24 | |
Drives: Yaris manufactured after 2007 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North America
Posts: 250
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Quote:
I just bought two gallons at the local Toyota dealer, total cost with tax $50 USD. But my worries about corrosion inhibitors and lubricants may be moot, because according to the information on the coolant bottles, the 50/50 freezing point is only -34 degrees Fahrenheit. That is OK where I live now in the Pacific NW of the US, but if I go back to Montana, it is not OK. Because it can get to 40 below in Montana. I will have to call a Toyota dealership back in Montana and ask them what they sell for coolant. Thanks, R. |
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06-25-2019, 11:36 PM | #25 | |
Drives: Yaris manufactured after 2007 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North America
Posts: 250
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Quote:
I think the actual number is Toyota 00272-1LLAC-01, see this amazon link. I am not sure if this other part number coolant can be delivered to a local Toyota dealer here or not. But I will call tomorrow and find out. Thanks, R. |
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06-27-2019, 04:49 PM | #26 | |
Drives: Yaris manufactured after 2007 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North America
Posts: 250
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Quote:
I may buy this as I want to depress the freezing point more than -34 Fahrenheit, and it is also cheaper than the standard pre-diluted Toyota brand 00272-SLLC2 (I think is the correct number). Some websites like Amazon, Ebay and ToyotaPartsDeal.com sell the older undiluted coolant 00272-1LLAC-01 and some Toyota dealerships in cold parts of the US (e.g., Alaska) still stock this older undiluted (00272-1LLAC-01) coolant. These dealerships dilute the 00272-1LLAC-01 coolant 60/40 (coolant/distilled water) to get a freezing point of minus 56 Fahrenheit. QUESTION: Does anybody have any opinion about whether the (apparently newer) Reochem would be better than the (apparently older) Toyota brand 00272-1LLAC-01 ? They are both undiluted and are about the same price. Thanks, R. Last edited by RMcG; 06-27-2019 at 05:17 PM. Reason: Add info, remove typos |
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06-28-2019, 12:03 AM | #27 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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I've used Recochem in diluted in every toyota I have ever owned with zero issues. The ingredients are virtually identical.
I mix my own coolant depending in what car it is going in (60/40 for my sis in laws yaris when she was up North for school, 50/50 for my Vibe and my yaris in the winter and 10/90 with amsoil coolant booster for my yaris during track season Use it with confidence
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... |
06-28-2019, 02:38 PM | #28 | |
Drives: Yaris manufactured after 2007 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North America
Posts: 250
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Quote:
QUESTION: Is using distilled water for dilution OK? Thanks, R. |
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06-28-2019, 09:03 PM | #29 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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I used deionized because it is sold at my local Canadian tire but clearly states it is not potable. Distilled will be fine, iirc distilled has a slightly higher amount of dissolver salts still in it but it is a moot amount. Plus your coolant ratio is so high that you could use hard tap water and be fine as the coolant is meant to help with that issue
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... |
07-01-2019, 06:33 PM | #30 |
Drives: '08 HB Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Allyn
Posts: 71
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Well.....
I thought the coolant was like the fuel filter: Good for the life of the car......boy, I've been running on borrowed time! 235k on the original coolant for my '08 HB.....no issues! I did just order the Toyoya 00272-1LLAC-01 ANTIFREEZE GALLON W from the link above.....thank you RMcG! |
07-15-2019, 06:16 PM | #31 | |
Drives: Yaris manufactured after 2007 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North America
Posts: 250
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Quote:
(I know that there is the potential problem of diluting the coolant, since you cannot get all the distilled water rinse out of the system before you add the new coolant.) Thanks, R. |
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07-15-2019, 09:31 PM | #32 | ||
Drives: 2010 Yaris LB Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 30
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Quote:
Quote:
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07-16-2019, 02:43 AM | #33 |
Drives: Yaris manufactured after 2007 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North America
Posts: 250
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07-16-2019, 03:36 AM | #34 | |
Drives: 2007 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Boston
Posts: 4
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Quote:
with distilled water. I will buy two gallons to flush or more until it comes out clear. Once it is clear how do you know how much of the concentrate to add with the clean distilled water already inside? Manual says 5 Quarts for Auto. I don't know if everything comes out in the flush so do you have to wing it a little when adding the rest? Since it is hot here now would it be ok to have a little more distilled water inside radiator or reservoir? I don't want to damage the coolant system or engine since this is my first time doing this. Also worried about the left over air pockets damaging system after. Thanks |
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07-16-2019, 11:27 AM | #35 |
Drives: 2010 Yaris LB Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 30
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Having the heat on will make the water flow through the heater core, further rinsing out the old coolant. If the system is properly filled, the heat will stay hot through your ride. If it cools off, there's unwanted air in the system.
PS. In my experience, it takes quite a lot of "burping" the upper and lower hoses to get all the air out while filling the system. Squeeze them each slowly and repeatedly until you don't see any more bubbles at the radiator neck. And over the next week or two, double-check the levels at the radiator neck and the overflow tank. If there was air in the system that escaped, you'll need to top off the coolant. |
07-16-2019, 12:02 PM | #36 | |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Quote:
And that is also why I said you can just simply drain and re fill as you likely will not have any benefit of a flush. If you are set on flushing it, then just run water through it until it comes out clear. Then start adding the coolant that you premixed in other jugs until the rad is full. Over fill the overflow reservoir a bit as well. Squeeze the rad hoses a bit and you will see the coolant level drop a bit in the radiator. I typically jam a funnel in the radiator fill hole and over fill the funnel and then turn the car on, you will see the level drop a bit and then start to rise as it warms up. Once the car is off it cools and starts dropping. Go back after 30 mins and remove the funnel and top up the rad. Drive your car will an over filled overflow reservoir and check it every day as it will drop as air ir burped out of the system. This will stop after a couple days. In my experience with various Yaris', they bleed air from the cooling system really well, just make sure the front end is jacked up so the rad cap is the highest point of the engine. Once this is done you need to buy a tester to make sure the freezing point is well below anything that you will see in your climate. You will have more than enough coolant in there for the summer, but potentially not enough for the winter, depending on your climate. Most of the coolant is removed when you drain the rad, but a slight amount will still be left in there. FWIW many people say you need the fan to turn on to open the thermostat - this is wrong and a waste of time. The T-stat opens at 180F, well before the fan kicks on (typically 204F). Also the Tstat is not an all or nothing mechanism, it will slowly open just prior to 180F and fully open around 180F. I have successfully bled cooling systems in ambient temps way to cold to get the fans to turn on. I just finished draining and re filling my Subie Outback and when the fans actually kicked on the coolant level didn't even drop - this is because the Tstat was already wide open well before the fans kick on.
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change, coolant, engine |
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