Help with oil change specs - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

TheSilkySmooth · 03-13-2010, 07:41 PM

Best filter ive used = wix 51396 - same as camry 2.4L. Best Oil = MTD 5w-30 snowthrower winter oil API SJ ( which is closer to the recommended SL on my fill cap than is SM GF4). This is for engine performance NOT validated by a used oil analysis - which itself in interpretation is oft fraught with misconcept and misconstrual.

severous01 · 03-15-2010, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth

Yep, your not getting all your oil out. Using ramps? That'll mess it up. Mine usually takes 3 + 3/4 qt with a good long drain at various angles using a floor jack. Dont over fiil or it will dogg down.

i'm using an alignment rack at the place i work. BMW/nissan/honda...so i know the car's level.

it doesnt really matter, when i check the stick after first turn on and shut down to check it's always on the line. and the oil is clean, just like it came out of the bottle...very little color change

but any way, it doesnt really matter. i change my oil at service interval and i'm using higher than standard oils, full synthetic so even if there's a quart left in there it's still not dead enough to change

TheSilkySmooth · 03-15-2010, 07:58 PM

Mobil 1 5w-30 is not full synthetic just 30%, Castrol Syntec has no synthetic in it, Valvoline Synpower has no synthetic in it - what "full synthetic" are you running? IN North American market, synthetic oil doesnt have to be real synthetic. Pretty much a joke - on us. High detergent / long drain "synthetics" can and do show higher engine wear than your 2 buck a litre conventional petrol oil. The detergents compete with the extreme pressure boundary additives (zinc compounds). High detergency is not a plus on a passenger car or race car.

sbergman27 · 03-15-2010, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth

Mobil 1 5w-30 is not full synthetic just 30%, Castrol Syntec has no synthetic in it, Valvoline Synpower has no synthetic in it - what "full synthetic" are you running?

If you are going to ask such a question, it seems like you might post a few links to sources which support your position.

I see this all the time. "This or that vendor's synthetic oil isn't really synthetic." But rarely do I note any sort of reference to credible sources making a clear statement on the matter, based upon clear evidence.

Besides that, I have to wonder why there's such a focus upon what's thought to be in the oil, and such a lack of focus upon how, empirically speaking, the oil performs relative to other oils.

That's why people become so weary of oil threads. There's always a lot of bluster by folks who imply they have the facts in hand. But rarely is there any actual meat to the claims.

-Steve

why? · 03-15-2010, 11:35 PM

Oil Thread! Oil Thread! Oil Thread!

Yay!!!

I'm so close to trying Amsoil, looks like it is worth a try.

sbergman27 · 03-15-2010, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by why?

I'm so close to trying Amsoil, looks like it is worth a try.

What criteria do you plan to use to evaluate Amsoil if you try it?

-Steve

TheSilkySmooth · 03-16-2010, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbergman27

If you are going to ask such a question, it seems like you might post a few links to sources which support your position.

... ...

That's why people become so weary of oil threads. There's always a lot of bluster by folks who imply they have the facts in hand. But rarely is there any actual meat to the claims.

-Steve

If someone made a questionable or surprising statement, I too would ask their source and then perform some research, myself, to validate. The information is out there in foreign MSDS (typ Korea and Japan where full disclosure is required) The P/N are the same as North America, so we will assume its the same formulation. This issue to me is consumer deception and cost. The Mfg cost on a group III base stock are 1/2 that of a PAO or PO Ester. Europe does not allow such foolishness as labeling a conventional oil a synthetic. I would post the PDF file but EXxon-Mobil tends toward RTF HTML not downloadable PDF.

http://www.msds.exxonmobil.com/psims...mentFormat=RTF

RangerBEH · 08-13-2010, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigsky2

See below:

thanks bigsky2 the post with the exact oil level was very helpful. I used just under the 4 quart mark for a change with filter and it gave me a oil level about 1/8 under the full line.

N2scouting · 08-15-2010, 08:26 AM

I use 4 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-30 oil with a Purolator Pure One filter PL14476 from Advance Auto. I use ramps, oil filter wrench and a 14mm wrench to remove the drain plug. Advance Auto and Autozone will except the used oil for disposal.

janders · 08-15-2010, 08:43 AM

my 2010 sedan seems to take 3.25 with filter also which kind of puzzled me since it says 3.9 in manual.....i did notice when brand new it registered way over the full mark so....which should you go by......car was level when changing also

Chuck G · 08-15-2010, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by janders

my 2010 sedan seems to take 3.25 with filter also which kind of puzzled me since it says 3.9 in manual.....i did notice when brand new it registered way over the full mark so....which should you go by......car was level when changing also

My 2010 was overfilled too.

Chuck · 04-25-2011, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth

Mobil 1 5w-30 is not full synthetic just 30%, Castrol Syntec has no synthetic in it, Valvoline Synpower has no synthetic in it - what "full synthetic" are you running? IN North American market, synthetic oil doesnt have to be real synthetic. Pretty much a joke - on us. High detergent / long drain "synthetics" can and do show higher engine wear than your 2 buck a litre conventional petrol oil. The detergents compete with the extreme pressure boundary additives (zinc compounds). High detergency is not a plus on a passenger car or race car.

Here is a Castrol true synthetic that you can buy in the US, (I usually find it at AutoZone), but yeah its made in Germany. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...&Number=718643

SKurj · 04-25-2011, 07:09 PM

Well I put Agip full synth in my bike... BMW stealers sell a Castrol full synth as well... do ya really want to spend $20+ liter though...

I'd consider it if i didn't need 4 changes a year.. (and thats changing at 10,000kms intervals instead of 8,000 with synth)

thepartsmancometh · 04-25-2011, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SKurj

Well I put Agip full synth in my bike... BMW stealers sell a Castrol full synth as well... do ya really want to spend $20+ liter though...

I'd consider it if i didn't need 4 changes a year.. (and thats changing at 10,000kms intervals instead of 8,000 with synth)

bmw 5w30 retails for 6.25 here in central illinois. I buy it for about 5 per quart. the stuff thats $20+ is castrol motorsport TWS 10w60. thats only for the M cars, probably a little too serious for the yaris!

(I used to work parts for BMW when we still had the franchise)

03-13-2010, 07:41 PM	#19
TheSilkySmooth Drives: 08 3DR 5M Bayou Blue; 09 Fos Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 622	Best filter ive used = wix 51396 - same as camry 2.4L. Best Oil = MTD 5w-30 snowthrower winter oil API SJ ( which is closer to the recommended SL on my fill cap than is SM GF4). This is for engine performance NOT validated by a used oil analysis - which itself in interpretation is oft fraught with misconcept and misconstrual. Last edited by TheSilkySmooth; 03-13-2010 at 07:44 PM. Reason: sp

03-15-2010, 11:35 PM	#23
why? Only Happy When it Rains View User's Garage Drives: Yaris LB Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: harnett county NC Posts: 4,097	Oil Thread! Oil Thread! Oil Thread! Yay!!! I'm so close to trying Amsoil, looks like it is worth a try. __________________ Colin Chapman disciple

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03-15-2010, 07:58 PM	#21
TheSilkySmooth Drives: 08 3DR 5M Bayou Blue; 09 Fos Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 622	Mobil 1 5w-30 is not full synthetic just 30%, Castrol Syntec has no synthetic in it, Valvoline Synpower has no synthetic in it - what "full synthetic" are you running? IN North American market, synthetic oil doesnt have to be real synthetic. Pretty much a joke - on us. High detergent / long drain "synthetics" can and do show higher engine wear than your 2 buck a litre conventional petrol oil. The detergents compete with the extreme pressure boundary additives (zinc compounds). High detergency is not a plus on a passenger car or race car.

08-15-2010, 08:26 AM	#27
N2scouting Drives: 2009 3DHB manual Black Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dayton , Ohio Posts: 48	I use 4 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-30 oil with a Purolator Pure One filter PL14476 from Advance Auto. I use ramps, oil filter wrench and a 14mm wrench to remove the drain plug. Advance Auto and Autozone will except the used oil for disposal.

08-15-2010, 08:43 AM	#28
janders Drives: 2010 sedan Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: western ny Posts: 5	my 2010 sedan seems to take 3.25 with filter also which kind of puzzled me since it says 3.9 in manual.....i did notice when brand new it registered way over the full mark so....which should you go by......car was level when changing also

04-25-2011, 07:09 PM	#31
SKurj Drives: 09 Yaris 3dr HB, BRZ Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: GTA Posts: 222	Well I put Agip full synth in my bike... BMW stealers sell a Castrol full synth as well... do ya really want to spend $20+ liter though... I'd consider it if i didn't need 4 changes a year.. (and thats changing at 10,000kms intervals instead of 8,000 with synth)