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04-25-2013, 02:50 AM | #19 |
Drives: 2013 Yaris Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 914
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Interesting. I was wondering the differences between the two. that gives me an idea of a number to add on top of the intake manifold. still going to dyno soon, though. I want to know. i didn't notice the coolant lines in your picture of the TB. are they easy to pull out? I am not using them, nor will I ever.
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04-25-2013, 10:44 AM | #20 |
play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,961
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Yeah, I'm pretty sure you could extrapolate that increase onto your own baseline dyno as those comparative runs were done with the only single change being the throttle body.
I'm running the stock coolant lines on my 1ZZ. They're just routed underneath for a slightly more uncluttered appearance. The only 1ZZ thing you'll never get rid of is a 2,000 rpm cold start idle as that throttle percentage opening is fixed by the ECU for the smaller throttle body. But it drops rapidly to a smooth stable normal idle as the engine warms. |
04-25-2013, 04:01 PM | #21 |
Drives: 2013 Yaris Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 914
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Ah - your TB is also turned 45 degrees compared to mine, hence me not seeing the lines :p I have the chip on the side, instead of the top. Shouldn't affect it in any way depending on how that's faced, should it? My cold start is 3k, guess it's time to adjust that idle screw!
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04-26-2013, 02:07 AM | #22 | |||
play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,961
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Quote:
Luckily it's fly by wire so no linkage issues are created. Quote:
It's just a variable valve metering air. Quote:
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04-26-2013, 02:20 AM | #23 |
Drives: 2013 Yaris Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 914
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I'll adjust it before I start it tomorrow morning, then!
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04-30-2013, 07:39 PM | #24 |
Drives: 2013 Yaris Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 914
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Adjusted the idle screw down - cold start varies from 2100 to 2400 depending on the outside temperature, lol. May or may not turn it down a hair more, but my warm idle is fairly low. seems to be around 750-800, and then when it does that little drop it goes to 600. :x probably shouldn't go lower.
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04-30-2013, 09:01 PM | #25 |
play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,961
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Yours may be behaving slightly different because you're running the stock manifold. I have absolutely no experience with that and only know about the tooter. My cold start is 2,100rpm and always drops (rapidly) to a smooth stable 600rpm hot idle.
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04-30-2013, 09:42 PM | #26 | |
advocatus diaboli
Drives: 07 Yaris hatch Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Jacinto California
Posts: 1,126
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Quote:
That low idle might be fine for fairly stock vehicles driven conservatively, when you get to "my level"(I know how that sounds, it's not my intention) there is that chain of events that lead to a circle of headache. Either that or my car(having the identical issue with two motors/trans and both manifolds) has some hidden problem I'm missing.
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05-01-2013, 08:20 AM | #27 |
Drives: 2013 Yaris Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 914
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im running the micro image manifold :) ill test it at a slightly lower idle rpm, maybe I can get a stable 600 as well. we shall see!
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