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12-01-2008, 05:37 PM | #19 | |
Drives: 07 Yaris Hatch 5speed Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 146
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12-03-2008, 09:07 PM | #20 |
Drives: Silver 2007 3Dr - Gryph Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Kansas City, MO, USA
Posts: 310
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Yup, right there, the 'CP' package: Larger Washer Tank with Level Warning = Swallows 7-Eleven super big-gulps of washer fluid with ease. And the 'Heavy Duty Heater' is the ceramic heater module. =^.^=
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12-03-2008, 10:06 PM | #21 | |
Drives: 2008 HB, A/T, Power W/L/M Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LI, New Yawk
Posts: 2,063
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A bargin for $110....... |
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12-03-2008, 10:22 PM | #22 |
DWEED
Drives: 3DR 2008 Metorite Metalic Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,161
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I forgot to turn on the headlights a couple of times. That's why I disabled my DRL. I figure that it is safer to always drive with tail lights on at night time than to drive with the headlights on all the time.
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Making a decision without following it with an action is still a fantasy. |
12-03-2008, 10:54 PM | #23 | |
Drives: 2008 HB, A/T, Power W/L/M Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LI, New Yawk
Posts: 2,063
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It IS confusing since the gauges do light up regardless. BUT the A/C and temp controls don't, so that should be a hint that something's missing at night. I've no plans to tinker with the DRL's though. |
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12-04-2008, 01:40 AM | #24 | |
Drives: Silver 2007 3Dr - Gryph Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Kansas City, MO, USA
Posts: 310
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Personally I have mine unplugged, and I keep my lights-dimmer just 'behind' the click to full bright, so my lights all dim noticably when I turn my headlights on. It's not much, but self-training to teach myself 'OMG Bright = No Headlights!' works better than you'd think. :-)
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12-04-2008, 12:33 PM | #25 | |
Drives: 08 3DR 5M Bayou Blue; 09 Fos Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 622
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12-04-2008, 09:45 PM | #26 | |
Bacon!
Drives: 2008 Red Yaris LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 45
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Quote:
FYI The DRL module is also tied into the foglight wiring. I seem to recall a user here who had some issue with his foglights after removing the DRL module. The post may have been lost in the hack and I can't recall what the exact problem was (and I'm too lazy to look for it) but it's worth mentioning. Last edited by ToddR; 12-05-2008 at 06:16 AM. Reason: typing with mittens on does not work |
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12-05-2008, 05:02 AM | #27 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Liftback S (RIP 07) Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Fair Lawn, NJ
Posts: 1,378
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just have to find the wire that grounds out the fog lights and splice tgem together or insert into harness and tape/soder
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"It hurts more when its wet" |
12-05-2008, 08:19 AM | #28 | |
Drives: Silver 2007 3Dr - Gryph Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Kansas City, MO, USA
Posts: 310
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Quote:
And it's actually not a fire hazard. While it can pump out 'hot to the touch' air, it can't make enough heat to actually catch things on fire AFAIK.
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12-05-2008, 11:03 AM | #29 | |
It's the illusion you see
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Aero Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Brossard, QC
Posts: 3,888
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Besides...there's a light in the cluster that tells you if your tail lights are on or not. I'm also wondering how could someone drive 30hours without even looking at ANYTHING else than the cluster ?? I mean, don't anybody have to tinkle with the HVAC during a couple hours of drive ?? |
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12-05-2008, 01:03 PM | #30 |
Drives: 08 3DR 5M Bayou Blue; 09 Fos Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 622
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[QUOTE=ToddR;190608]Fire hazard or not, it's there if you have the All-Weather Guard package. Here in the midwest cars don't warm up in three minutes during the winter. I'm really glad I have this in my Yaris, but I wonder if the high power consumption is effecting my mileage. It looks like it draws close to 40 amps when on.=QUOTE]
Well, I am in the cold New England and we are regularly +20 deg F and have a week of -10 to -20F usually once the season. I have the optional Cold weather package with HD heater and big washer bottle and heavy fan. So How do I get this special heat t work? Where exactly do you set the HVAC controls - maybe this is answer mystery why my car dies with the heat on - electric heater its taking all the juicyness far away away from my little battery |
12-07-2008, 08:18 PM | #31 |
MetalShark
Drives: 2008 Yaris LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 104
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Forgetfull?
Yup, I'm old. I deal with it. On my Chevy lumina there is a photocell somewhere that prevents a driver, seeing DRLs, from driving at night without tail lights. The switch to a new Toyota threw me. I drove the lumina for 10 years. Rather than try to teach an "old dog" new tricks I just pulled the DRL relay. I'm writing out my will and have forgotten your name.......maybe it will come to me. Hell, if I'd taken my Ginko I could remember where I hid the Viagra.
End of problem.
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Absolutely red, Drawtite hitch, CAI, Insulated Header, Amsoil 5w-30, Mag-drain plug, Red-Line MT-90 tranny oil, Scotch-Guard, Window Tint, Dash rug, Custom short throw shifter, Lowered OEM arm rest, Super-Turbo muffler/w chrome slash cut tip., TRD rear sway bar, sticky pads, front shock tower bar, RS grill badge, VVT-i emblems, Second tire set from Tirerack.com, DISABLED DAY TIME RUNNING LIGHTS, platform- style locking custom bike rack. 86K miles so far. 5 years use now on ceramic wrapped insulated stainless-steel header. |
12-07-2008, 08:29 PM | #32 | |
MetalShark
Drives: 2008 Yaris LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 104
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Quote:
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Absolutely red, Drawtite hitch, CAI, Insulated Header, Amsoil 5w-30, Mag-drain plug, Red-Line MT-90 tranny oil, Scotch-Guard, Window Tint, Dash rug, Custom short throw shifter, Lowered OEM arm rest, Super-Turbo muffler/w chrome slash cut tip., TRD rear sway bar, sticky pads, front shock tower bar, RS grill badge, VVT-i emblems, Second tire set from Tirerack.com, DISABLED DAY TIME RUNNING LIGHTS, platform- style locking custom bike rack. 86K miles so far. 5 years use now on ceramic wrapped insulated stainless-steel header. |
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12-07-2008, 08:52 PM | #33 | |
Drives: Silver 2007 3Dr - Gryph Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Kansas City, MO, USA
Posts: 310
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A/C Temperature at MAX. Blower is anything but off. Engine at idle speed or faster, AKA running! Outside air is 50F/10C or less. (Cold enough to fog the windshield.) Coolant is 150F/65C or less. (Cool light is still lit on the dashboard.) It will turn the ceramic heater on in stages at 10, 20, and 30 seconds, ramping up from 20 amps to 30 amps, then 40 amps. So it's not a sudden 'surge' of hot air, but it does warm up quickly. The effect will be most noticable if you keep the blower on LOW, not high. Set the 'vents' to the far left/dash-only, close everything but the side vent on one side, aim it at your face, set blower on low, near-instant toasty.
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12-07-2008, 10:01 PM | #34 |
Drives: 2008 HB, A/T, Power W/L/M Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LI, New Yawk
Posts: 2,063
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Nice!
I gotta try this! |
12-29-2008, 11:06 PM | #35 |
Drives: 08 butt white hb plain jane Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Brush, CO
Posts: 3
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I would agree with most everything being said about the benefits of DRLs. Now for the disadvantages as I see them.Drivers in America are going to get lazy and only be looking for a light coming down the road as more and more cars are equipped with them. This could potentially cause accidents. Another disadvantage is these are your low beams when your lights are on so instead of getting years and years of service from your bulbs you will be getting about 3 years out of your expensive halogen bulbs not to mention the pain in the rear of changing them more often and the possibility of driving around with a burned out headlight and not knowing it until the law pulls you over and hands you a ticket. These are just some observations from driving my 02 Passat for 7 years.
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12-31-2008, 01:55 PM | #36 | |
Bacon!
Drives: 2008 Red Yaris LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 45
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