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08-10-2019, 10:26 PM | #19 | |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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I have used CQuarts UK and I am a big fan of it
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... |
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08-11-2019, 09:00 PM | #20 | |
Drives: 2008 Yaris Base Hatchback Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 248
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I have attached pictures. I figured out the Toyota Color code is 8T1, not FB18. As you can see, in addition to the extensive peeling of the clear coat, the car suffered some damage from a hail storm (some pock marks in the roof and a pock mark with a resulting crease & some rust in a panel over the front passenger window) that I feel I did not have the money to repair. This was the worst hailstorm I have ever experienced: it was like somebody swinging a ball-peen hammer with both hands as hard as they could each time a hail stone hit. It's a wonder it did not do more damage. Any comments from 06YarisRS or anybody else are would be welcomed. (P.S. : I have used the convention that "left" and "right" for the vehicle refer to the same left and right of a driver sitting in the car for the titles of the photos, but that may not be relevant, since the titles don't seem to have come through on uploading the photos.) Thanks, R. Last edited by RMcG; 08-11-2019 at 09:10 PM. |
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08-11-2019, 09:15 PM | #21 | |
Drives: 2008 Yaris Base Hatchback Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 248
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Quote:
I have included photos in another post in this thread. For the time being, I may just want to protect the paint as much as possible over the upcoming winter and not worry about appearance for now. And then try for a more long term solution, like the one advocated by others, like DIY painting/DIY clear coating or DIY plasti-dipping. I really don't have the money, nor the inclination to spend on a professional paint or clear coat job. Thanks again, R. |
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08-11-2019, 09:23 PM | #22 |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Well, it's definitely repairable albiet a little more extensive than I had expected. The roof would have to be completely repainted, but you have natural boundary lines there and, because it's essentially perpendicular to the other panels, a slight difference in color/texture would be less noticeable. You would probably want to feather the paint down into the A-pillar a bit. The liftgate would likely have to be blended into the rear quarter panels a bit with some feathering of the base coat. But, you might get away with painting just the liftgate. I guess it all depends on the quality of job you're looking for. Removing all the bits and pieces on the liftgate is pretty easy and you'd certainly want to do that.
Is there any chance that a friend/relative has a garage that you could do this in? You wouldn't need a full booth, just somewhere out of the wind, given the size of the panels you're tackling. The roof is a very large area and would be highly susceptible to contamination. You are going to need a fair bit of material for this job. I painted my entire car with about 1.5 - 2 quarts (including 50% reducer) of basecoat and about 1 gallon of clear coat. I would buy at least three full size aerosol color-matched basecoat and likely 4 - 5 cans of the SprayMax, but you'd want to calculate a little more carefully. BTW, my car too suffered what appeared to be hail damage. It was contained to the roof and there were 4 - 5 good sized pock marks. Since I was repainting the car anyway, I just filled them with bondo and sanded them nice and flat before priming.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ Last edited by 06YarisRS; 08-11-2019 at 09:35 PM. |
08-13-2019, 07:34 PM | #23 | |
Drives: 2008 Yaris Base Hatchback Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 248
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Quote:
Yes I do have a relative with a garage, so I may be able to talk them in to letting me use the garage. In order to try to understand better the requirements, 1) how long would a paint job take in your estimation? I suppose I could do it in increments, and not all at once. In addition, 2) is there a temperature range I need to shoot for? I am presently in the Pacific Northwest of the US, so it generally does not get terribly hot or cold here, regardless of the season. 3) You mention sanding (above & in a previous post), would it be realistic to just hand sand, or would I realistically need some kind of sander? 4) You also say, "you'd want to calculate a little more carefully". what is the calculation in terms of area per can of paint and clear coat? Based on what you said above, it looks like the cost for paint and clear coat would be about $150 to $200. Does that sound correct? Thanks, R. Last edited by RMcG; 08-13-2019 at 07:48 PM. |
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08-13-2019, 08:46 PM | #24 | |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Quote:
Edit: I'll share my thoughts on a couple of your questions tonight. 2) I think as long as you're over 60 F you should be fine. It was terribly hot and humid the day I painted my car. I had condensation develop in my compressor. You won't have to worry about that. Above 60, your off gassing times between coats wll just be a bit shorter. Your paints should have Instructions on them. 3) hand sanding is time consuming. I would pick up a cheap palm sander if you don't already have one. If you do use a high build primer, you can block sand manually. We could talk about that a bit later if you move forward with the project. 4) I would just do some rough measurements and calculate the approximate surface area. Your product cans will give you a sense of single coat coverage. I would think that a couple hundred $ should be close to your anticipated costs, less some extras like sandpaper (400 -600 grit for before base coat and 1500 and 2500 for wetsanding your cured clearcoat), a block sanding block, a palm sander (if needed to be purchased), a solvent such as lacquer thinner, tack cloths, painters tape etc. More to follow...
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ Last edited by 06YarisRS; 08-14-2019 at 12:02 AM. |
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08-17-2019, 12:47 AM | #25 | |
Drives: 2008 Yaris Base Hatchback Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 248
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I appreciate your advice. Can you give a little more detail on how to do the feathering or blending? Thanks, R. |
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08-19-2019, 10:27 PM | #26 | |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Quote:
So in summary, you don't paint to the edge of any panel, but blend over a distance. Now, you will clear coat the entire panel, otherwise you will have a different texture and reflectivity. Wet sanding and polishing the clear coat - especially with a high quality product such as SprayMax - will result in great gloss and depth. Here is a video. I was mistaken earlier as I did not do what is technically an orientation coat. I did what I referred to as misting the panel. Because spray can spray patterns are much narrower than a spray gun, the paint is more prone to striping. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fvSA27QrWI
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ Last edited by 06YarisRS; 08-19-2019 at 11:07 PM. |
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08-22-2019, 08:14 PM | #27 | |
Drives: 2008 Yaris Base Hatchback Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 248
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Quote:
You have truly inspired me (as has the entire forum many times). I think what I am going to do is to start out by plasti-dipping the large areas, like the roof and do some of the paint work on the smaller areas. That way I will get more experience with the painting process, which is less reversible than plasti-dip. Eventually I will remove the plasti-dip, fix the hail-induced pock marks and paint the larger areas when I have more time and experience with paint. Unfortunately, I am pretty busy, and plasti-dip will give me some protection through the upcoming winter, is removable, and does not require as much prep or work as the more permanent solution of paint. As you have correctly noted, there are natural boundary lines between the roof (and some other areas) and the rest of the car, so I do not necessarily have to have a match in color between those areas and the remainder of the car. In fact, I may use different plasti-dip colors. Some of the areas, however, lend themselves much more naturally to being painted with a color matched to the original color. I'll also use the wipe on product recommended tmontague to protect the older painted areas. Thanks again, R. |
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Tags |
hood, paint, plasti dip |
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