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Old 05-30-2006, 10:27 AM   #19
fearturtle44
 
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Items such as ArmorAll does NOT clean. You need to clean first and then apply ArmorAll. Armorall is important to use as not only does it makes your dash look nice, it also keeps it from cracking/drying out. The sun can do some damage on the dash if left untreated. I am not one to suggest you put on once a day, but would suggest every couple of months. Just take a few seconds.

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Old 05-30-2006, 12:44 PM   #20
why?
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Dust is my friend, if I don't want it their I'll open the windows.

As for drying out, hmm, how old does a car have to be for that to happen, 30, 40, maybe 50 years old?

Let's see, my father's 1982 Toyota Supra's dash isn't dried out, and I know for a fact he never used any of that stuff on it. So that is 24 years old and nothing.
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Old 07-31-2006, 01:39 AM   #21
TRD_Yaris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SophieSleeps
So what in these products does that?
That's what their marketing tells you.

My girlfriends 93 camry has been parked outside for 13 years and is not fading.
My 02 land rover's dash doesn't fade and my 01 IS300 dash is fine.

If you're concerned about your dashboard after 13 years of outdoor parking in the sun on a 13k car...there is a problem.


My honest opinion is that this stuff just coats your plastic in shiny silicone or some other sort of petroleum product. Dashboards don't get dirty. They get dusty. Just wipe it off. There's no need to spend money on gimicky products.

I love how people spend money on products and think for some reason they're gonna get the car looking better than it came from the factory.


Yeah? Tell that to my 240SX's... and they even have tint!! Without proper conditioning of the dash it will eventually dry up and crack. atleast that's how it works in Texas..
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Old 07-31-2006, 09:28 AM   #22
Chris07LB
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Here's what I use to keep my interior clean....

California Car Duster - http://www.calcarduster.com/dashduster.asp

Under 10 bucks, I've had it for YEARS, and it works awesome!

Pick up the larger one for the extrior while your at it!
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Old 07-31-2006, 12:33 PM   #23
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This is why you got to places like autopia.com or like me the tcca. You can ask professionals that make a living off this stuff and aren't scared how to tell you to use it or what they use. They won't tell you where to get it some of the times but still.My 1991 Ford Thunderbird dash is still fine but it has a seem in the middle that overtime cracked due to overexposure of the sun. My bf Nissan Truck 1995 dashboard used to be dark black and most other peices, they are now faded grey. Don't say thats its a Ford thing or a Nissan thing cause I've seen plenty of Toyotas with this problem. I agree IF you get something with Petrolium Gelly or anything relating to that your asking yourself for trouble, thats why you learn what to look for. I never touch ArmorAll cause it a low end brand(from my experience) Meguiars and Zymol and Stoners are the ONLY three brands that touch my car, because I know how my car reacts with these products and they work. If you want something thats professional grade and works use 303 products for your dashboard. I don't use it cause I don't want to order it. but I have seen this product in use and its great. And I personally like the shiny clean looks, I can see every little flaw in every vehicle I look at and it kills me. At least the glossy look distracts me. Oh and uh... read the sig on my opinion on how to wash a car.
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Old 07-31-2006, 12:39 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SophieSleeps
waxing a car that has fresh paint causes delayed cure time and possible problems down the road.

You probably shouldn't wax the car for about 6 months so you can let the chemicals in the paint move their way out.
Yes you can do that claiming that the vehicle hasn't already had cure time or you can speed up the process and thow shit at your paint to speed up the non protection process. I claybared,polished, and waxed my car in the first month. I also suggest claybarring the windows(use water as lubricant to prevent a film build up that make the wipers chirp. Then clean afterwards.)If I was still on the 6month waiting period I'd have 2pounds of bugs imbedded in my paint, but the wax coatings that I had on it allowed them to splat and then come clean off.
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Old 07-31-2006, 11:11 PM   #25
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I use a product called Plexus Plastic Cleaner on my dash. I find that the dimpled plastic cover on the dash in the Yaris holds dirt really well... looks really nice but it is a very inefficient design. One of the biggest problems I have had are the cupholders near the mirrors... if you put a soda in there and hit a bump you'll have dripping soda marks everywhere. Also for some reason when you roll down your windows and your knuckles hit the door panels, that seems to leave rings that are hard to wipe out. Plexus cleans and protects in one step, and it doesn't leave a thick waxy coating on your dash like ArmorAll does. I suggest it. You can get it from marinestore.com for 14 bucks... not really sure who else distributes it though.

http://www.plexusplasticcleaner.com/
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Old 07-31-2006, 11:51 PM   #26
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Just wipe my interiors with a damp cloth (water)
Usually I just wipe the interior with my chamois when finished drying the car.

I'll NEVER use anything on my dash. My father restors car and it's easy to see the ones that have used off the shelf so called protectants on their dashes and seats etc. MFG's recommend a damp cloth for a reason.
Additives like teflon and silicone will build up over time and your interior will fade, crack etc. No to mention a greasy dash attracts dust regardless what the %$#@*&^ battle says.
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