"Parmas" Motor

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by Scubaru Steve

mine is 4-5 inches from my turbo in my wrx, its worked for 2 years, i believe i need a new sensor now.

as for the sensor reading when the car is off that is normal. the exhaust the piping is that afr, if you leave it on it should slowly slowly dissipate.
free air calibration requires you to remove the sensor from the down pipe in fresh air.

can always try replacing the sensor, i believe most use the 5 or 7 wire bosch. can get them at a decent price mostly.

Thanks for the suggestions.

I tried the free air calibration and didn't change at all. Contacted Haltech directly and he needed a log file of the AFR reading vs Sensor voltage. After he send a reply that from the log it seems that the sensor needs replacement!

I hope the next one will at least be good for one year and not 2 months!

In the meantime I am trying to solve the last issues and installations which are:

- Oil leak from the turbo compressor discharge area
- Need new oil gauges as I have issues with them
- Installation of the NST torque damper
- Installation of the NST crank pulley
- And finally off to the dyno and hope will be ok for long time!

The main thing that is making me nervous is the oil leak from the turbo to the discharge/boost piping. I was thinking that the turbo seals were gone but I went to a Garret distrubtor and checked shaft play and seems fine. He said that for turbos it is normal to have a slight oil leak from the discharge area but I am not sure about it after I read this http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...timization.pdf

11 Point Checklist for Turbo Best Performance and Efficiency.

1. Application Information – target horsepower, intended use of vehicle, etc.

- Street / Drag racing. Target Hp 300Hp

2. Air filter sizing - determine size for application needs

- Air filter piping is the same size of the inlet compressor housing

3. Oil Supply - restrictor for ball-bearing turbo

- Ball bearing turbos use 1mm restrictor ( which I have it installed recently )

4. Oil Drain – proper size and routing

- The Drain size seems enough visually but I am not sure how much is the inner diameter. Although I have a suspect in this case.... Since the turbo is behind I can only touch and feel the area and cannot see it with the engine on the car. I am sure I felt a short 90 degree angle fitting exactly after the turbo fitting and it could be there is a bottle neck there. I am trying to re-route the drain to a straight line as possible

5. Water Lines - set up for greatest thermal siphon effect

- Siphone effect means water IN must be connected to lower level than Water Out if (I read well the document in the link). I am using the water lines that were connected to the Idle control motor but I didn't know which is IN or OUT ?

6. Charge Tubing – determine diameter for application needs

- Charge Tubing is 2" which is the same size of the charge outlet of the turbo. I don't see an issue about that.

7. Charge-Air-Cooler - determine core size for application needs, design
manifolds for optimal flow, mount for durability

- Intercooler is a little big but I prefer to have some lag than having high intake temps. Lag should be gone after I increase more boost.

8. BOV – VTA for MAP engines and by-pass for MAF engines

- HKS SSQV BOV seems fine for me

9. Wastegate – connect signal line to compressor outlet, smooth transition to
external wastegate

- Using internal wastegate, no issues with that

10. System Testing – pressurize system to check for leakage, periodically check
clamp tightness and the condition of couplers

- Here is the problem

11. System Monitoring – proper gauges/sensors to monitor engine for optimal
performance and component durability

- A turbo speed gauge. Is it really needed?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

The location of your oil drain looks fine...

Out of curiosity, what is your cold idle RPMs? I had a lot of blow-by during idle when I had a 1ZZ TB on. cdydjded pointed out that the higher RPM at cold start was causing excessive oil pressure because the polymer strands haven't had enough time to warm up and expand. Hopefully I explained that right. More importantly though, when I put the 1NZ TB back on and effectively lowered the cold idle RPMs, blow-by seemed to have disappeared.

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

The location of your oil drain looks fine...

Out of curiosity, what is your cold idle RPMs? I had a lot of blow-by during idle when I had a 1ZZ TB on. cdydjded pointed out that the higher RPM at cold start was causing excessive oil pressure because the polymer strands haven't had enough time to warm up and expand. Hopefully I explained that right. More importantly though, when I put the 1NZ TB back on and effectively lowered the cold idle RPMs, blow-by seemed to have disappeared.

I set cold idle to be above 2000 rpm until it reaches 50C it quits to 1400. I set this high rpm as noticed many factory cars use the same technique to warm the engine quickly to operational point. Mine warms up within a minute or two on idle.

I don't think this is related to the oil leak since when the oil is cold it is thicker than when it's hot so if it leaks at 2000rpm when cold it should also leak when at 1400rpm when hot!

Also I was thinking that maybe the engine needs to breath more through the Top Cover. I was thinking of maybe making bigger inner diameter fittings and a larger breather on the outside. Could it be one of the issues?

[Parmas]

I got the turbo checked by a specialist regarding the compressor oil leak and he said it is fine and there is no play with the shafts and it must be something with the drain.

So I am arranging the drain setup to a straight line and a bigger o/d pipe to try to solve this forever.

In the meantime I done some works while the turbo and manifold are out.

Will post some pics of the drain new setup when it is ready

[ilikerice]

quick question.. i know the reasoning behind the exhuast wrap, but is it nessissary on the yaris for safty or are you just doing it for added performance?

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by ilikerice

quick question.. i know the reasoning behind the exhuast wrap, but is it nessissary on the yaris for safty or are you just doing it for added performance?

The reason is both.

1. Prevent heat to damage or wear any parts like gear cables, hydraulic tubing and any other thing in its vicinity. (Especially for our small engine bay this is one to take care of) . I already replaced 2 gear cables because of this btw!

2. With the Thermal barrier paint plus the Exhaust wrap I am hoping to obtain lower engine bay temps to at least 10C lower as advertised. Also with the wrapping you are keeping the exhaust gases as hot as possible. The hotter the gases, the better they flow and with all going to the Turbo you might sense a better or earlier spool up.

[Parmas]

Finally installed the NST crank pulley set. No issues yet....

[Yoda]

And there won't be.

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by Yoda

And there won't be.

Today I had some time to fix the power steering and alternator belt in place. With the power steering belt had no issues at all.

Although with the Alternator Belt I had issues with it. I have all 3 pulley NST set and the belt matches perfectly the alternator pulley while in the crank pulley it is a little bit tighter. Infact the belt curves through the edges of the crank pulley. Pushing it with my finger with some force it sits ok while on the alternator pulley it sits easy.

Is there anyone having this issue?

Could the belt slip if I try to run it like this?

[Bluevitz-rs]

maybe a picture might clear this up better.

[pimp my yaris]

I have my aem wideband in the same location as yours. Did U find out why yours stopped working? Mine is working good. But the stock sensor that was located right next to it is fried. Mabe heat? I dont know. I had to lengthen the wiring on the stock sensor so it would reach. Engine compartment looks sweet!

[cdydjded]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

I have my aem wideband in the same location as yours. Did U find out why yours stopped working? Mine is working good. But the stock sensor that was located right next to it is fried. Mabe heat? I dont know. I had to lengthen the wiring on the stock sensor so it would reach. Engine compartment looks sweet!

Do you need a replacement o2 sensor? I have 2 extra ones....

[Parmas]

To blue vitz - I will take one tomorrow. Probably I have to remove it again and modify the width of the pulley where the belt fits.

As regarding to the sensor, AEM and any brand that make widebands recommend at least 14 inch down from the turbo. So by rule mine is located wrong and I am thinking of doing it the right way they recommend.

To cdydjded - I already have 2 sensors in stock ready to install but thanks!

[Parmas]

I couldn't get a good picture for you to review although I managed to fix the pulley by machining a bit from one side. Now the belts hook fine with no problems

[Bluevitz-rs]

[Parmas]

Drain fixed to a straight line with bigger inner tubing. Wrapped the tube with titanium since it is passing through lots of heat there.

Sorry but picture was taken by my mobile..

[johnny_vitz]

Have you put the manifold back on since the wrap went on? It looks like you might have a hell of a time trying to get a couple of the bolts done up

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by johnny_vitz

Have you put the manifold back on since the wrap went on? It looks like you might have a hell of a time trying to get a couple of the bolts done up

Yes infact the middle bolt of the manifold flange needed to be replaced to a shorter one because of the drain going down exactly infront. Took me about 10min to fix that only bolt in due to lack of space.