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01-08-2013, 02:17 AM | #55 |
Drives: '08 Blazing Blue Yaris LB Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 496
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When you add a modification like this does it put a lot of extra wear and tear on the motor?
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01-08-2013, 12:12 PM | #56 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
Posts: 954
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01-08-2013, 02:32 PM | #57 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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With any changes to the air/fuel ratio and flow to an engine there is the potential for damage. A person over on the Micro Image forum recently damaged his engine with use of a Rotrex supercharger. He didn't mention how much boost he was running, as compared with the 6 PSI of the Blitz, but even the Blitz can do damage if the engine is allowed to run too lean.
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01-08-2013, 02:41 PM | #58 | |
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Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
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Quote:
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
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01-09-2013, 02:01 PM | #59 | |
Only Happy When it Rains
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Quote:
But Philippines? isn't that the land of dirt cheap labor costs?
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Colin Chapman disciple |
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01-14-2013, 02:44 AM | #60 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
Posts: 954
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Background: Checked e-bay to discover that there is a bunch of different ECUs available for 2006-2012 yaris. Mine is 89661-52j30 version (canadian 5 speed manual tranny).
Question: Do I just wire the CS controller same way as shown in the post below? http://www.microimageonline.com/foru...ll=1#post14467 Thanks P. |
01-14-2013, 06:31 AM | #61 | |
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Quote:
All of those ECMs are the same from a SC standpoint. The differences are for tranny type, engine immobilizer, ABS equipped, etc.
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01-14-2013, 11:12 AM | #62 |
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Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
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^ Blitz used to mark the fuel controller for manual or auto transmission, though. I have no idea what the difference in tuning might have been.
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
01-14-2013, 11:31 AM | #63 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
Posts: 954
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^ Thanks!!
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03-10-2013, 11:29 PM | #64 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
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Question pls re wiring .. (I know I am very slow)
My question deals with clutch activation 1. I am right in thinking that blue wire on the diagram is simply supplying +12V signal to the relay (this wire goes from the 4-position module which manages the whole activatio thing)? 2. and that If I wire this unit only (wihtout connecting the fuel controller and 4-position module ) and supply +12 v to the blue wire I will be able to check whether clutch is engaging (just wanted to check the sc unit itself prior to installation as my kit is a pre-owned one) Thank you P. |
03-11-2013, 06:39 AM | #65 | |
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Quote:
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03-11-2013, 01:59 PM | #66 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
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Thanks.. meaning that in there is @nothing@ in this blue line then SC is not activated, and if positive (12+v) goes to blue wire, SC gets activated?
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03-11-2013, 03:14 PM | #67 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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No. It is a switched ground, so when the blue wire is connected to nothing the SC is not activated and when the blue wire is grounded the SC is activated.
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03-11-2013, 03:36 PM | #68 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
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Wow.. Thanks!
I thought that @nothing@ would equal ground )) Understand now |
03-13-2013, 04:14 PM | #69 | |
Drives: Sedan 07 Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Asia
Posts: 478
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Quote:
Well, commodities and services cost a lot there in the US, but you earn big money too. Here commodities and services are dirt-cheap compared to there, but people earn a looot lower than people there. Although the cost-of-living-to-salary ratio is lower compared to what you have, unfortunately it is still not considered affordable since as non-necessities such as car tuning (as compared to house repair) are charged incredibly high. FYI, A decent paint "washover" can go as low as $500 including labor and paint and all. a $600 paint job is already superb, an $800 paint job is carshow quality already, probably with pocket change. |
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03-20-2013, 09:31 PM | #70 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
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CTScott, need your help pls with wiring of my kit.
Background: wired my SC and nothing happens (does not seem to work) when I try to turn it on using the supplied four position switch. To check whether the clutch with a magnetic switch is working I wired the clutch as discussed about a week ago and supplied @ground@ to the blue wire - can hear a distinct @click@. When I do it while the car is running I am able to hear the click from the clutch followed by some other noise (engine is also starting to run kinda rough - I guess because the fmu is not working) so I gues the Sc itself is OK. I am considering several options 1. wiring is incorrect 2. fmu (the supplied fuel controlled module) is not working 3. the four position activation system is not working (small box with a circuit inside and switch attached to another small circuit board with a red led) Questions: while getting connections on the A21 side I was not able to remove the back cover of the ecu plug and locate the wires that I needed (according to the wiring diagram I gonna need positive (ING ON) wire and accelerator position sensor (both should be red). I found though two red wires, one of which seems to show 13.2 V(+) while the car is running, another giving me a range of values between (+) 0.76 and 1.2 volts depending on the engine RPM (1000-4000.. voltage gradually increases as engine RPM increase). Question 1: Do these two guys seem the right wires that I need? To check whether the problem is with the four-position switch system, can I just wire the FMU and activate the SC manually (by suppplying the "ground" to the blue wire). I actually do not like this 4 position system, I would rather have two positions: on and off. Question 2 pls: Can I achieve this by manually operating the SC (supplying ground) and at the same switching on and off the FMU (by installing another switch for the FMU - say disconnecting positive 12V wire)? Is there a better way to get FMU working when sc clutch is engaged? (one of the diagams kinda tells me that the four position switch system has smth to do with activating the FMU - green wire of the FMU gets connected to the blue wire of the clutch relay and blue wire of the 4-position switch (which should be ground)) Qestions 3 pls: Is there a way to check whether FMU is actually working? When I supply power from the battery to the red and black wires of the FMU - shall the red LED on the side of the FMU be ON all the time? Mine does not seem to stay ON (sort of blinking sometimes) Thank you! |
03-20-2013, 09:32 PM | #71 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
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This is what I am using. My kit is from xb, hence I have a pink wire. I also have only one black wire at the FMU level, not three.
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03-20-2013, 10:15 PM | #72 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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That wiring is all correct for the Yaris. How did you make your connections (tap splices, solder, etc.)?
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