DIY: 2006-2011 Yaris OEM Cruise Control Complete Installation

[bassmannate]

Amazon. I should have contacted you first but was trying to be sure to get it in before this trip and it was prime shipping. I've already contacted the seller to see if i can get a replacement for just the stalk since i don't want to pull all the wire out.

The good news is that if the schematics I've seen are correct, the on/off button is just a short to ground with no resistor. Worst case scenario, i mount a momentary switch to the dash and connect it across the leads coming from the back if the steering wheel.

By the way, are you still selling the indicator modules?

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[CTScott]

The on/off is just a switch to ground. I would check all of your connection points to make sure it isn't an intermittent connection. If the stalk is one of the Chinese clones, it could be a bad switch within it as well.

I do still sell the indicator modules.

[bassmannate]

Yeah, it might just be a bad switch internally. The rest of the functions work fine.

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[bassmannate]

Well, I got a chance to meter the switch finally. Getting 1.5-2 ohms when the on/off button is pressed. Not sure if that's so high that the ECU thinks that it's not ground. I suppose if there's any other resistance such as oxidation on one of the pins between the switch and the ECU it would bump that resistance up and it wouldn't know what to do with it.

[David C]

Originally Posted by bassmannate

Well, I got a chance to meter the switch finally. Getting 1.5-2 ohms when the on/off button is pressed. Not sure if that's so high that the ECU thinks that it's not ground. I suppose if there's any other resistance such as oxidation on one of the pins between the switch and the ECU it would bump that resistance up and it wouldn't know what to do with it.

Try to read the resistance between the main chassis ground next to the battery and the battery terminal itself, then compare it to the reading you're getting between the ground connection you're using for the stalk and the battery terminal. Subtract the main ground to terminal value to it and that's how much resistance that you should try to reduce. I would assume the ECU has a direct wiring to the battery terminal clamp, but the manufacturer would take for account the resistance in chassis ground when setting the value range for the CC inputs, since the stalk would be connected to chassis (same connection as the horn by connector D3, right ?).

I did the readings on my own setup (I used 2x 2-way rocker switch and connecting my ground to the bolt behind the kick panel under the steering wheel) and had a lot of resistance using that ground point compared to the main chassis ground, but still I have flawless operation so far (installed it and been using it daily for 5 days now).

However I would really doubt that the switch internal resistance of less than 2 ohms would throw every off. It sounds more like a bad contact inside the ON/OFF switch, otherwise you wouldn't be able to use all the other function flawlessly.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by bassmannate

Well, I got a chance to meter the switch finally. Getting 1.5-2 ohms when the on/off button is pressed. Not sure if that's so high that the ECU thinks that it's not ground. I suppose if there's any other resistance such as oxidation on one of the pins between the switch and the ECU it would bump that resistance up and it wouldn't know what to do with it.

That is fine. There is about 30 ohms of tolerance for each of the switch modes.

Was the ECM pin a genuine one that seated properly in the ECM connector?

[bassmannate]

Originally Posted by CTScott

That is fine. There is about 30 ohms of tolerance for each of the switch modes.

Was the ECM pin a genuine one that seated properly in the ECM connector?

Pretty sure it seated properly. It felt like it clicked in there. I'll try to pull it out again tomorrow morning and make sure it seats correctly. I would think if that were the issue the rest of the functions wouldn't work right.

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[CTScott]

Originally Posted by bassmannate

Pretty sure it seated properly. It felt like it clicked in there. I'll try to pull it out again tomorrow morning and make sure it seats correctly. I would think if that were the issue the rest of the functions wouldn't work right.

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The other one will only work after on/off works, so unless you can watch the cruise control input on a Toyota Techstream tool, you really can't tell if the other functions are working when on/off is now.

[bassmannate]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The other one will only work after on/off works, so unless you can watch the cruise control input on a Toyota Techstream tool, you really can't tell if the other functions are working when on/off is now.

Right but after i get it on, everything works great. I used it from Chicago to St. Louis and back this past weekend to keep pace with traffic.

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[bassmannate]

Well, I think I figured out what the problem is. I went ahead and pulled the ECM plug back out and checked it out. On closer inspection, the wire that came with the kit does not have the little rubber piece that goes directly behind the pin. This piece not only looks like it seals out moisture, but also locks the pin more securely than the pin lock mechanism does on it's own.

This would explain why it worked flawlessly right after I finished the install because the pin had just been seated. Add on top of that that I didn't have any zip ties for a couple days to re-secure the ECM wires and it was a recipe for that pin to vibrate out slightly.

Anyone know what that piece is called? If I can get a picture, I'll post it to show what I'm talking about. Where would I find these?

Edit: I found a picture. It's the blue piece right behind the pin on the yellow wire.

[bad]

I was looking at this pdf. Looking at the picture of the cruise stalk on page 2, does anyone know if that one wire with the brown connector is actually used?

[CritcalShenanigans]

Mr CTScott. I just want to say THANK YOU for taking the time to make this tutorial. Just the fact that its over 6 years old and still being used is a testament to its quality. I just finished installing CC on my 2009 manual 3dr hatchback base. I did go the OEM route and used all Toyota parts for the install. I think it took about 25 mins all said and done. I realize I could have done it cheaper but I just don't like messing with aftermarket parts for stuff like this.

In case anyone is interested here are the Toyota part numbers that I used.

84632-08021 - Cruise Control Assembly - Amazon $84.99
88280-14030 - Cruise Control Clutch Release Switch - Amazon $21.72
45184-52130-B0 - Cover with Cruise Control Hole - ToyotaPartsDeal $23.76
84633-02020 - Cruise Control Switch Wire (with male spade connector for horn) $29.12

I live in the middle of butt hurt nowhere. It's a 90 min drive to Walmart! I cant tell you how happy this makes the wife and I


Thanks!
Damien

Originally Posted by CTScott

The 34 page PDF file below is a complete DIY for installing OEM Cruise Control on a 2006 to 2011 Yaris.

This will only work for US/Canda/Puerto Rico Yaris, as Yaris from all other areas lack the built-in ECM programming for Cruise Control. Vehicles from other areas must use an aftermarket cruise control system.


Any procedure that requires 34 pages of documentation may seem intimidating, but this installation is really not difficult. I tried to add as much detail as possible to clarify the parts where people who have installed cruise control have had questions.


This guide is broken up in to seven sections encompassing the following:

Section 1: OEM Cruise Control Stalk Installation.
Section 2: Steering Column Connector D3 Pin Installation
Section 3: ECM Connector A21 Pin Installation
Section 4: Connecting the ECM Pin to the Steering Column Pin Through the Firewall
Section 5: Cruise Control Clutch Switch Installation
Section 6: Optional Cruise Control Indicator Module Installation
Section 7: Verifying Operation

http://tinyurl.com/CruiseDIY

[tiberiuciepan]

Well took me a while but i made a video about the install step by step
It worked great , the instructions are perfect
Cost me 30 bucks total. I have the most complicated setup in that chart , so i had to install everything

here is the video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxRHFkUwg60

Thanks for watching !

[NYC-SE]

Thank you for that very well documented step by step video. I'm sure it will help out others in the future.

[geeoye]

Originally Posted by tiberiuciepan

Well took me a while but i made a video about the install step by step
It worked great , the instructions are perfect
Cost me 30 bucks total. I have the most complicated setup in that chart , so i had to install everything

here is the video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxRHFkUwg60

Thanks for watching !

Where did you get the screws from. I was able to purchase the Cruise control handle with wire but having difficulty finding the screws online.

[scratchpaddy]

They are M5 screws. Any hardware store will have them. The shortest ones you can find should do fine.

[laobo]

Originally Posted by Mikeyh

Scott,

Thanks for the cruise control kit for my 2014 Yaris L. Just as you said, it was easy to install, really plug and play. Took about 20 mins. and the wiring you included for stalk and horn wire made connections simple.

If I can do it anyone can!

Anita (Mikey's wifey)

Dear Friend.
can you show me, pin of teminal ECM to connect from Swith CCS?
Im a yaris sedan 2014, but i not found pin ECM ( ECU) from my car. OR have you got this Diagram
Thanks!

[nikonNUT]

Just finished my install. Why didn't I do this sooner?!? Thanks for the parts and the great tutorial Scott!

P.S. I didn't order the rear cruise rear boss. I just used this to drill the hole....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Worked a treat and no pulling the steering wheel!